Waking up Scooter Lithium Batteries w SMt32 CAN Controller
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- Опубліковано 20 вер 2024
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Just a quick point that might make the CAN thingy work more reliably:
The CAN bus needs 120 Ohm termination resistors at each end (assuming it's high-speed CAN). Info available on the web. Here's a good reference: www.kmpdrivetrain.com/paddleshift/practical-tips-can-bus/
(Awesome that somebody reverse engineered it and built that little board! You get a gold star!)
Jehu, you drove that video like a mad man! You really "Let her drop!" or as some now like to say "Throw Her down!". While this kept me Awake! I'll be watching the next from the Watchtower. Keep up the good work Bro!
😂
those wires you call switch, I believe it is to activate the 120 ohms parallel resistor which is mandatory if the card is at the end of a canbus line, if it is in the middle should remain "open" and let the devices at the ends of the witing do the loading of the network, which should be 60 ohms. but since in this case it it the battery card and the CAN controller, the resistors should be permanently connected. Do us a favor and turn off the power to CAN controller and measure the resistance on the two wires that go between the battery borard and the CAN controller, it should read 60 ohms or really close to. any higher value can make data transmission noisy. Best Regards.
Oh I saw the schematics, yes its a plan on/off switch here.
I just bought 6 of these scooter packs. I would like to make a booster pack for my Bluetti AC200 that is on the way. Please do another video about this. This is my first battery project. Thanks
Been waiting a while for a CAN controller for my scooter pack. Any ideas when you will have them in stock again? Thanks
where to buy that device SMt32 CAN Controller?.,
FYI the CAN stands for "Car Area Network". It's a serial bus like RS-485 that is used for in-car networking and in other things like medical devices and other types of vehicles. CAN bus data rates vary a lot, and for example my car has a low speed (and low power) CAN bus for necessary things like door locks and lights, and a high speed one for interconnecting the ECU, TCU and DCU.
Each CAN bus node is independent, and each node needs a microcontroller (like the STM32) and CAN bus I/O interface to work on the CAN bus. I'm guessing that the small PCB has all of the necessary devices to make a node. That means that each battery pack also has a microcontroller and I/O, and powers them down if there's not activity on the bus. I'm guessing without looking that the STM32 has enough to operate by itself, but it looks like there are several FOSS projects for writing software to do anything you want.
What's not clear is if there is documentation for the battery pack functions, or if the STM32 can query this. If all you need to do is turn the battery packs on, I'll bet that using a resistor to pull a voltage low or high could do that without a need for the STM32. But if there's one, there needs to be some way for it to communicate with the outside world. I'm not seeing that with this board.
Controller Area Network
never stop thanks
Correct me if I’m wrong but I think it is a STM32 microcontroller, not an SMT.
Love your vids!! Thumbs up!
There is something called SMT32, so that's an important distinction!
StringerNews1 you have a link?
Because:
1. I believe the chip shown is an STM32 which is a very common chip with a CANbus connectivity feature.
2. Google results are filled with mistyped STM32 topics when searching for “SMT32 canbus”
@@ericoudammerveld424 you mean smt32.org? It's for a trade show of surface mount technology (SMT) manufacturers. Not what we're looking for, even if the chips are SMT. Looks like STM32 is a whole family of ARM Cortex SoC chips. Some have wireless connectivity, so it may be possible to pair the chip to a computer with Bluetooth or use home automation hub to control over ZigBee, LoRa etc., depending on the version.
www.st.com/en/microcontrollers-microprocessors/stm32-32-bit-arm-cortex-mcus.html
I use DuckDuckGo as my search engine BTW. More privacy, better results than Google. You might want to check it out. I got tired of all the bad returns from Google too, and have been happy with DDG.
StringerNews1 i didn’t get the .org site as a result -at all-.
Indeed the STM’s are MCU’s and if I look at the video the chip resembles one. (Aside from the fact that this is a fairly common misspelling in the forums.)
I’m pretty familiar with RS485 which doesn’t differ from CAN too much on the hardware side.
I’ll give duck duck go a try
I did some calculation, ok, simple math and came up with 36 volts 12aH, does that sound about right for each pack? I have 4 and have done nothing with them yet, but if they are 12aH per pack, holy cow you get a lot for your money!
Hi
I tried to connect escooter battery with only + and - wires to ebike controller with positive and negative wires plus three other wires. On the controller is written CAN controller.
The problem is that display goes on directly by connecting + and - wires. Also display shows error code.
Can I fix it anyhow?
Thanks.
I connected the CAN controller to my battery pack and there is a voltage on the output terminals. However, when I connect the terminals to a load, the BMS shuts down. Anyone else experiencing this?
See my comment below if your battery controller leads are cut off leaving just wire nubs.
Great! Been waiting for this but I bought the 1st batteries that don't have any leads I think. gotta check when l get home but think the wires were snipped with less than 1/4 inch remaining. So....???
Yes. Been waiting on this video.. I have 8 packs.. but I dont have a plug like yours. Do you have CAN for sale
Now just play Prince's version of "All along the Watchtower" as your background soundtrack 👍
I'm listening to Prince right now amen!
I see what you did there...
@@scaesare just speaking the "truth" 😏
So you need the microcontroller to operate the battery not just wake it?
Does this still not allow discharge when charging?
Excellent question
Take a look at my comment and Jehu's response above Adam. If I understand correctly, I believe Jehu's answer confirmed this. Looks like you can charge via the load wires to circumvent the simultaneous charge/discharge issue.
The can controller is sold out , when will they be available to be sent to Australia??
You are the best
do you know if this will work with a OKAI ES400 battery
Sorry I don’t know
nicely done
@jehugarcia I purchased several of these, wondering if you figured out the simultaneous charge/discharge issue? Did we determine if we can charge on the power side of the battery with all the normal protection intact? Since it has regeneration braking, I read that we might can just charge/discharge only on the red and black wires.
Yes we can charge via load wires
@@jehugarcia That is great news, thanks for the reply. I know a lot of people were interesting in that answer, as it is a critical feature to using these for a power-wall type application to allow for simultaneous charge/discharge. I have been waiting on this video and just ordered the CAN controller! Thanks for actually following through and getting this solution out to your customers!
Can the internal BMS be used in series (72V)? I have an application for this but only if I can get >60v
I did the pin 3 hack and have been using two in series. Put a switch between pin 3 and ground and you can turn the BMS on or off. It's also a lot cheaper if you just want to turn the BMS on and off, as opposed to using the CAN chip
@@aayala1053 where can we find more info on the pin 3 hack?
@@EricTbo ua-cam.com/video/AiW7eAaoj5c/v-deo.html Using the chips costs $15 per battery. I bought 8 batteries, so that would be a lot of extra money. Shorting the pin 3 to ground costs less than 10¢ for wire and a single resistor. I added a switch, but it's just so I can turn the BMS on and off, it's not necessary
@@aayala1053 Thanks, it worked, I end up connecting pin 3 to the ground of TP7 with a 1k resistor!!!
I want to make a 40v battery pack for a mower, but want to use the same housing and connecter. Can't seem to find a 40v bms
Hi jehu, awesome video. Thanks for your educational videos.
Can you tell me at what amperage should a battery bank of 48pcs of 38120 batter in an 8s6p configuration be charged
And can you recommend an ideal charger
Thanks
Can you share your pcb design for powerwall again please? Thanks in advance.
How do I order 1 of those plus you need to show how wire those pack that no wire off the board some of the first 1's you sold
Hello, I could ask what voltage the 18650 should be reused, I have almost all below 4.15v, but it should be 4.20v is it a problem?
Local pick for cash purchases of Batts ?
Not right now
Been waiting a while for a CAN controller for my scooter pack. Any ideas when you will have them in stock again?
You’ll have to build your own I don’t foresee those coming back in stock again
@@jehugarcia Can you give a quick pointer how to flash these boards from Aliexpress with alex3dbros firmware thats on github? Can you do it with the ST-Link programmer? I cant figure out this CFG pin on the board...
Does anyone know how to reset the scooterpack BMS on overload or over voltage cutoff?
hi can you say me if i buy one board ,i must programming or i can use directly ?
Your LGMh1 scooter batteries are all sold out on jag 35
Hi did you make that xt60 buss bar?
where can we get the packs in australia ?
hey man, some dudes did a study on the youtube premiere thing. it lowers views.
Premieres are so annoying. I wish there was a way to disable premieres so they don't show up in your subscription feed until after they premier.
All 16 pack I receive had no wires.
Same here. @jehugarcia, show us how to add the wires.
same here...wonder who actually received them with wires
Looking closer at my batteries, there is an area that was cut out, leaving behind the stubs of the wires. The stubs are so short, they are useless. Farther back, I see a couple larger gauge wires, also cut short. We need guidance on how to restore these batteries to work with the new CAN board.
My battery packs also have the control wires cut short. However, with a sharp plastic scraper or screwdriver, one can carefully pry under the thick black coating covering the wires and circuit board. With the black coating removed, you can then see 8 solder pads. You can also read the labels for each pad: Link A (Pink) , Link B (Orange), GND (Black), CAN-L (Green), CAN-H (Yellow), VSYS (Red), WKUP (White) and 1-WIRE (Blue). VSYS (Red) connects to 5V on the STA32 CAN Controller, GND (Black) connects to GND, CAN-L (Green) connects to CANL, and CAN-H (Yellow) connects to CANH. What Jehu refers to as a switch are Link A (Pink) and Link B (Orange) which need to be jumpered together. Add a switch to the STA32 CAN Controller. If everything is wired correctly, when you turn the switch on the STA32 CAN Controller, you should get power output from the battery.
@@markyo99 My plan was to rebuild all packs into 1S x ?P and stack them as required. I will be sticking to that plan. This way I can configure them as needed. 7s 10s or what ever.
🔋👍