This video details step by step instruction for constructing a basic 3:1 mechanical advantage system for crevasse rescue, from start to finish. Presenter - Darrell Weston Videographer - Matt Blecharz
I notice that there are no overhand or alpine butterfly knots tied on the rope leading to the fallen climber (i.e. between the members of the team, to provide more friction on the snow in the event of falling into a slot). If those knots were there, would this system still work (could they be untied under load to allow the rope to pass through the pulley at the anchor-end of the system?).
Thank you! Along with your "one on one crevasse rescue", this is the best video on crevasse rescue that I found. It answered a lot of questions. I have one more: What exactly do you mean by the "open system" ? I couldn't find it anywhere. Thanks a lot!
In this case "open system" means that the system can not only be used for raising the load but also allowing the load (the climber in the crevasse) to be lowered. This is not uncommon if his or her rope gets hopelessly jammed in the lip of the crevasse, mandating that they be lowered a bit to work on alternatives, such as lowering a a drop loop over a padded edge.
Thanks Sinfected. I think Doug gave you a good answer. Another way of saying it or looking at it is Open = Reversible Closed = Irreversible It's about keeping your options "open". ANd all it really takes to keep it open is learning to tie a Munter-Mule. Hope that helps and sorry I didn't reply sooner.
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Good instruction. Keep up the good work, mates.
Thanks Garret
I notice that there are no overhand or alpine butterfly knots tied on the rope leading to the fallen climber (i.e. between the members of the team, to provide more friction on the snow in the event of falling into a slot). If those knots were there, would this system still work (could they be untied under load to allow the rope to pass through the pulley at the anchor-end of the system?).
Thank you! Along with your "one on one crevasse rescue", this is the best video on crevasse rescue that I found. It answered a lot of questions. I have one more: What exactly do you mean by the "open system" ? I couldn't find it anywhere. Thanks a lot!
In this case "open system" means that the system can not only be used for raising the load but also allowing the load (the climber in the crevasse) to be lowered. This is not uncommon if his or her rope gets hopelessly jammed in the lip of the crevasse, mandating that they be lowered a bit to work on alternatives, such as lowering a a drop loop over a padded edge.
Thanks Sinfected.
I think Doug gave you a good answer. Another way of saying it or looking at it is
Open = Reversible
Closed = Irreversible
It's about keeping your options "open". ANd all it really takes to keep it open is learning to tie a Munter-Mule.
Hope that helps and sorry I didn't reply sooner.
Question: Is the crater of the South Sister filled with crevasses?
Translation: Muntner = Munter.
which mountain is this? looks like hood.
kaizer, it is Mt Hood.
i keep hearing "eye sacks"