HOW TO CREVASSE RESCUE with Xavier De Le Rue | How To Xv
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- Опубліковано 23 сер 2024
- If you are crossing glaciers, it is worth knowing how to undertake a crevasse rescue, something hopefully you never have to use, but worth having in your toolkit.
In this episode of How To Xv I go through the steps of how to rescue someone who has fallen in a crevasse. Covering the steps you have to take, securing yourself, creating an anchor and belaying, this video will give you a basic overview of what to expect, but the reality is you need to get out there and practice this, because if / when it happens, just knowing the theory will only get you so far.
Let me know if you have any questions in the comments below.
Edit by: Tim Burgess
Motion Graphics by: FX Pergola.
Thanks to: Swatch, Smith, Rossignol & Crosscall.
Pretty sure the first setup is a 3:1 the load is shared across the 3 'legs' of the haul system. the additional carabiner is just a redirect and increases the load on the anchor by 25% or so, whereas pulling against the load reduces the load on the anchor.
SCD7 correct.
You're mentionning that you need to use the tblock to avoid slack if the anchor breaks, but if it breaks you're going to join your friend for a crevasse party...
you need to slide down the Tibloc alongside the tention rope in case the anchore breaks, so your weight and traction will avoid your freind to go down, at the same time use the slack to build a 2nd anchore as a backup one for you to secure onto (since the tibloc will be on the wrong side to secure you from falling).
Very underated comment 👌👌thanks
True. I thought he may have meant to say that: using the tibloc in this fashion prevents the rope from slipping through the progress-capture pulley if it should somehow release. But a second anchor is a good idea if you have ANY doubt in the first one.
7:08 Side-loading a carabiner like that gives me chills.
Oh yeah - did not see that, focused on my escape! Xv
@@HOWTOXV Great video montage and hoist technique! Thank you.
Cross loading carabineer are a real problem in the fall itself, at this point, if it held the fall is gonna held a considerably smaller almost static load. My steel oval carabiner from CT are rated 14 kn while cross loaded, it's more than a factor 2 fall would produce and in any case at those forces the weakest link of the chain is your spine ahahah
You only get mechanical advantage from the loops that go through the prussik. One loop in the prussik and an extra on the anchor does not increase your force, it just redirects it and add friction.
Yann Chevrier-Foundy exactly only a change of direction and it also adds another force on the anchor
Good point he is adding all that downward force onto the anchor - 1.5x the force if you ignore friction. Another pass through the t block would get you 4 to 1 multiplier with 3/4 of the force taken by the anchor when you are pulling up.
How did you learn all of this information? 😱😱🤔
@@DmitriyLaktyushkin Have you done this in a real life situation then? 🤔😱
I’m here for this comment
At 5:00 That music is so appropriate .
Xavier's so laid back I'll have to watch every single he'll release .No matter the subject
This is a demonstration and I'm freaking out! So scary you guys are so brave!!!
it's so good!
Awesome video. Its not a 2:1 though its a 3:1 and then just a 3:1 with a change of direction added. But still works and great video.
Fantastic Xavier! Great video! As they said before, no rambling, just facts. Great job and I too hope your channel will get noticed more soon. UA-camrs are missing great content!
Thank you, much appreciated. Xv
Re 3:40 Alternatively, if you have a simple pulley, you can temporarily block it with a butterfly or fig-8 on a bite, or even better, a Progress-Capture-Prussic.
re 6:35 At this point, Think again: pulling yourself down with you hands on the rescue line to the crevasse, improves your pulley system dramatically, by reducing the biner friction, & 'adding' another multiplier line (you) to the pulley system. It also stabilizes & aligns you in the system, and improves your footing to be mostly vertical (perpendicular to the snow).
Think ahead. Take a class. Think again.
Definitely would have set a prusik on the tensioned side below the traxion pulley and clipped it to the anchor as a backup before you walked towards the edge.Or, tie a stopper knot on the working end above the pulley to catch if the pulley fails.
Did this exercise in summer while trekking on a glacier with a guide. The weight of someone hanging on your rope is indeed much harder than expected, you really just get pushed against the ground. Scared me a little, since I wouldn't trust myself to hold someone if it would actually happen for real. This is indeed something you need to practise and secure asap to get the weight off. Was fun and educational doing it though, also playing the victim hanging in a crevasse (all secured of course).
Thanks Mirna - Yeah scary how hard it is to hold someone, great you got to practice it. Xv
Honestly the best crevasse rescue video I've watched out of 20+. Clear and easy to understand. Thanks Xavier
Thanks Ryan, really appreciate that it means a lot. Xv
This is one of the best essential crevasse rescue videos out there.
Thank you. XV
What a badass demonstration!!! Love the background music 👍thanx 4 sharing
Great vid Xavier! And good point that it needs lotsa practice. I would add:
• tiblocs tend to destroy your rope - prussiks and something like Wildcountry’s Ropeman less so
• if you’re victim is conscious, throw a loop of rope down to him/her to clip through a biner, and pull on this to further increase pulley effect
Hey Leo. Thanks - good points, thanks for adding them. Xv
What about the snow/ice. How does a prussic work on a frozen/wet rope?
How do tiblocs damage more than the ropeman 2? or was it ropeman 1 related?
Adding that last carabiner&loop into the system and pulling downslope made it less efficient actually
He had a 3 to 1 before the carabiner. The carabiner is called a "change of direction" and while it added friction, it allowed him to use his body weight and slope in the pulling while keeping the rope system in line for maximum efficiency.
@@russellgilbertson He could just use more slack to pull in the right direction without adding this carabiner. In this video, he deosn't pull as horizontally without the carabiner than with ...
The coils of rope pulled your upper body when your partner "fell" into the crevasse. Ideally the coils should be locked off, so the force would pull on your harness, not on the coils and your shoulders. So easy to lose balance and hard to arrest a fall. Pulleys give mechanical advantage only when they are at the victim's side, not at the anchor. At the anchor they just reduce the friction.
Correct me if i'm wrong but the way i learned it that's a 3:1 ratio at the begining, not 2:1. 2:1 would be if you'd drop a loop down to the victim. Also adding that extra biner (when he says he's making a 3:1) is just adding friction to the system and making it harder for himself.
sidlaus you have a keen eye which suggests me you aren’t a novice to this kind of things. 😉 You are correct in your observations, but I bet that these little errors were made because of a very tight schedule to deliver the video on time! So let’s not be too strict and let’s enjoy the video! 😎 🏔
You´re absolutely right, it is a 3:1 mechanical advantage to begin with, adding the extra biner just redirects the force and will decrease the efficiency of the system due to more friction. However, in this case the redirect enables you to pull downhill with your body weight, so it might be more convenient despite some added friction. It is a 3:1 ratio in both cases, you just change the direction of pulling.
thx David, that's my view on it as well. I am definitely not the biggest expert and wanted to share the basics there to inspire people to practice... and I definitely want and need to practice as well.
@@xavierdelerue537 thank you for your videos xavier, keep up the great work!
@@xavierdelerue537 Great and fun video! One suggestion, as stated above, the first system is 3:1 and the second carabiner just creates a change of direction. However, if you put the pulling strand through a carabiner on a prussik/tibloc on the strand below the anchor, instead of through a carabiner at the anchor, you´d get a 6:1 mechanical advantage and pull downwards, so a win win :)
Great, informative video as always!
Thanks
Pulling someone out of a crevasse takes time and is exhausting. Consider using a “drop-loop” with a “z-drag” for a 6:1. Lots of vids on setting this up. Good work fellas!
Thanks for the advice Jonathan, I am going to look into those too. Cheers Xv
6:1 can be very dangerous. It gives you enough power to really hurt the victim. Use only when you have really good communications between victim and rescue. It also takes a lot of rope and if you don’t have pulleys, the added friction can be substantial.
The person in the crevasse can hang his/her bagback on the main loop of the harness and put the skis on it, so the weight is not anymore on the back and the legs. If the blood can't flow well in the legs it can cause harness syndrome : the personn feel dizy and pass out. If this happend, don't try to remove the harness, just put the victim in a sitting position and call the rescue (but you should start with that). If the blood flow back to quickly, it can cause deadly hearth issues (crush syndrome). So if everything is well hang between the legs (this not what you think) you can wait a long time like this. Don't forget to wear all your warm layers because being hang in a crevasse can cause hypothermia quickly (surprizing, right?!).
Don't put the prussik loop on your harness when you are pulling the hauling system! If the anchor breaks, your partner need you out of the crevasse and not with him.
Practice a lot and try different configurations. This situation is really stressful and sometimes some gear is missing.
Good video!
Sorry for my english!
Great info - thank you Henk. Xv
Thank You for all these Superb Movies !
Brilliant! Really clearly explained. Really easy to grasp the basic conscept.
Thanks Dean. Xv
Très instructif. Merci
Merci. Xv
Xavier is skinning while his partner is already descenting? ;-)
At 00:08 you see why you should always use a redundant biner!
I'm exhausted. Just watching this lying in bed
日本語で見れるのはありがたい！！
Thank you !
As always great content! Very informative
Thank you.
Good video, maybe it will be even better to pad the ski/board where the sling makes contact with the edges and shovel a full T-trench
Ah yes, great tip thank you. Xv
Excellent video
Thanks. Xv
super les gars. la rad line est awesome
As always for Verbier Seasonaires the game is "guess where Xavier filmed this" this week :p
Hello. I have a question. Wouldn't it be better to secure the pulley with a knot instead of maintaining the tension with t-block? I mean if either the anchor or the pulley fails you will be pulled suddenly backwards. Thank you
You can have a piece of some carpet like fabric 10 x 30 rolled in the pocket to cover the edges when using dyneema around the board/ski. Not heavy. Also digging the T shape. Vertical on the anchor is not a bad idea. And bro your carabiner is cross loaded :) ;) plus I will insist on two anchors ;)
Thanks for the tip - that is a good one, and yes - bad shot of the carabiner... thank you for point it out and all the info. Have a great winter. Xv
After load transfer your leaving all the victims weight on a rope grab, which may or may not hold depending on the conditions of the ice.
Great content! Did you notice the cross loaded carabiner at 7:10?
Yeah - my bad, thanks for pointing that out. Cheers Xv
great vid!!!
very good video
Thanks Peter. Xv
These are amazing! What about self arresting in split mode on steep terrain?
Amazing video
Thank you. Xv
Great video, i think everybody learn with this tips! What lenght of rope do you use? 30? 60?
Thx!!
30 meters is definitely easier on a 2-3 party
bonjour
plusieurs questions qui me chiffonnent un peu...
pourquoi c'est les anneaux qui te tractent et pas le baudrier, ce qui me parait dangereux en cas de chute, et peut potentiellement te bousiller les épaules, car le poids et mal reparti contrairement à un baudrier... ?
pourquoi ne pas mettre une deuxième ancre pour individualiser victime/sauveteur (ce qui ne me parait pas superflus dans ce contexte ou tt de même les points ne sont pas mega safes) avec par exemple le deuxième ski ???? là, si l'ancre cède, il me semble que tt le monde est mort, car tu es aussi assuré dessus, et vu le mou qu'il y a, tu ne pourras pas retenir ton pote (facteur de chute monstrueux)
merci pour ta réponse
non c'est toujours le baudrier qui te tracte, apres avoir fait les anneaux il faut faire un loop autour de ceux ci au niveau du pontet et faire un noeud que l-on accroche au pontet et qui transmettra le poids de la chute sur le baudard et non les epaules\
merci pr ta reponse :)
bon ride !
Attention the tiploc for the pulley is installed wrong !!!
If you do not have skis can you use an ice axe for snow anchor?
Yes, use the ice axe the same way that you would use a Snow Picket but get appropriate training prior to attempting this!
Sorry but the second carabiner does not lower the force only changes the direction of pulling. Second mistake going with the Tibloc in wrong direction to the edge.
thx for your comments\
thnx bro
booyah-kasha
Bonne vidéo mais une erreur sur les forces en jeu : le ratio est de 3:1 au début et le mousqueton rajouté sur l'ancrage n'y change rien. Il permet seulement de tirer dans l'autre direction (vers la crevasse). Ce qui peut aider s'il y a de la pente : il est plus facile de tirer vers le bas. Si non, cela ne fait que rajouter de la friction...
Pour bien comprendre ce principe, se référer aux nombreuses videos que l'on trouve sur le principe du mouflage et de l'effet poulie. Le poids n'est divisé que par le nombre de cordes qui le soutiennent et non par celle rajouté sur l'ancrage qui ne fait que tirer depuis le haut sans rien changer au principe...
Autre remarque : dans cette situation avec un partenaire valide, il eu été plus efficace de lancer un bout de la réserve de corde au partenaire (en gardant bien le bout de la corde) et de le laisser la mettre sur un mousqueton accroché au baudrier (ou encore mieux sur une poulie relié au mousqueton). De la sorte, le partenaire peut aider à tirer sur la corde depuis sa crevasse. Deux personne à tirer sur la corde valent mieux qu'une , d'autant sur un mouflage 3:1 et compte tenue des frictions. Si le partenaire est inconscient, il faut basculer sur le mouflage 7:1 qui nécessite peu de matériel en plus et s'apprends facilement dans tous les manuels montagne .
Et merci pour tes vidéos qui nous font rêver !
Most difficult thing is to have your doppelganger attached to you
It's my evil twin!!
So basically it’s like a winch
What sort of emergency Beacon is that ?
Hi Tom, It is a Resero - which are finally coming out to the public this winter as been testing non stop for a couple of years. Where are you based? As they are still working on world wide coverage. Beanie
@@HOWTOXV Cool :) It looks promising. I am Based in Norway. Cheers for replying!
Leider reichlich Fehler...binde dich nie aus dem Seil, bevor du dich nicht gesichert hast. Der t-block ist nicht korrekt benutzt, das der Karabiner das Seil nicht . Solche Videos sollten von echten Leben alpinen profis gemacht werden
The 3-1 puts the pull force on the anchor, 4-1 is much safer. Not good.
Thanks for the info.
Be carefull not to have a traverse load on the carabiner which connects rope to the harness of the resqued person (seen in this case).
Have eyes at all the equipment youre using!!!
true , good point. only noticed it when the episode was out but hey... that's the way it came on when falling...
@@HOWTOXV yea its still a super good video! Small stuff like that happens-therefore i always use a steel carabiner on my harness connection!
Interesting but i bet 90 percent of us dont live near plsce know for crevasse
true but if you get there it is magic and good to be prepared
I just saw ...Ice fishing for yetis.
C est dommage je ne comprends rien tu es français et moi aussi et en bon français je ne comprend p s l anglais 🤔
Desole, c’est sur c’est dommage mais il y a les sous titres si jamais. Sinon si tu as des questions pendant l’hiver je fais des questions réponses en français parfois.
Take a second pulley. Its a lot easier to save your partner then....👍
Thanks for the tip. Xv
On the whole this video was ok but there was quite a few small mistakes and some really big ones too. Sorry bro but I can't put a stamp of approval on this..
Hi Dave. Always happy to have feedback and to hear what I can do better, so feel free to share. Xv
@@HOWTOXV Sure thing. 1. I'd take the weight off first with a vertically placed ski, stay attached to the rope and give yourself a few cms of slack to build a really good and neat buried ski then equalise them both together. This way your anchor will end up much much much better and you minimise the time spent with weight on your harness. 2. I'd use a classic prusik not a tibloc to go down on the loaded rope rather than the dead rope. This way if you fall into a different crevasse you will be counter-ballanced over the ice between you and also have a chance to arrest them again if your snow anchor fails. In the way you are doing it you will be in there with them if the anchor blows. 3. The way you are using the tibloc is wrong, you should clip over the rope rather than just through the metal ears. 4. Your pulling technique could be greatly improved if you get down on all fours and climb away from the victim across the surface of the snow. 5. The extra loop you added to give you more mechanical advantage is actually just putting way more force through the snow anchor which is very dangerous rather that giving you extra mechanical advantage. Better to tie your end of the rope through the anchor and then clip that through another carabiner clove hitched on the rope coming out of the 3:1 (anchor side of the tibloc) this gives you 6:1 and you should definitely get the fatty out. ;-) 6. You have to very diligent not to get snow in the teeth of the Microtraxion, better to have a big scoop under it so snow can't get in. 7. Better to tie into the end of the rope than clip with a carabiner so you don't end up in the situtation at 7:09. Hope that helps! happy new years! Dave
That coil is complete garbage, backup prussik is wrong and you are crossloading. Nice demo on what not to do 😅
Really good info'. But do you have to use profanity in an enactment?
Apologies... I did actually drop off the edge of a crevasse for this and I went a lot further and faster than I thought. Didn't mean to take the lord's name in vain I was truly taken by surprise. Xv
@@HOWTOXV Thanks for that. I thought you were completely acting. Though it is still not good.
terrible carabiner position @ 7:10
Yup....
Minute 4:00 .. WTF
7:16 cross loaded carab.