This has nothing to do with your paint but if you want better accuracy get your scope raiser off your hand guard. Any flexing of the hand guard will move your sight with it set up that way.
I'm really impressed with this actually. The handguard especially. If you ignore the brass marks there's really hardly anything. I'm about to coat a gun with this, and am really impressed with the results you've gotten.
I did an AR lower in Parker grey and it turned out awesome, but I first sandblasted the metal, degreased, painted then baked. Finish is still excellent after 9 years, no chips or wear of any kind.
Great to hear that! Proper prep is definitely key, especially if you are wanting to use it as a permanent coating and not just a replacement for Krylon or other rattle can jobs.
I can say for sure that, Your paint job will only be as good as your prep job. If you don't degrease and prep intensively, Than your paint job will either look great but not last or just look like ass from the get go. I would go as far as to dip in acetone then sandblast with a fine to medium media bead and acetone again, and dry well. (don't ever use lacquer thinner, it has to many other things in it and it will show on your finish product). The extra nozzles can be found at Brownells, Part number for the Fan nozzle is 084-179-005WB and I would suggest getting some tube cleaning nozzles, part number is 084-179-004WB. Good luck guys and remember, Many many very light coats are much better then any kind of heavy coatings. Take your time and don't skip any of the steps and you will be fine. Peace out..
i don't know why people tell others to get extra nozzles....if for some reason the nozzle starts clogging you hold the can upside down spray the paint for a few seconds until it comes out clear,then you shake the can about 20 seconds and it will go back to spraying normally without wasting money on more nozzles,yall are welcome lol... after you do the process make sure to spray a test area for a few seconds to give the air time to get out so that you are not spraying splatters
@@getbrainseeds sometimes the nozzle get plugged up, if you’re spraying you don’t have time to clean out the plugged nozzle, so you grab another to finish that coat, when you’re done spraying, then you can clean out the plugged nozzles, or throw them away whatever works for you. Some paints have to have a second coat while the first is still tacky. Personally, I always like to have my bases covered, I wouldn’t want to ruin a perfect paint job over a plugged nozzle. Just saying, it’s how I do it, maybe not for everyone. 🤷🏽♂️
next time try baking the parts after you coat them...200 F for 4 hours. Might make the finish harder. Also dont forget - you can easily retouch most areas, easily - just spray some Alumahyde into an old can or even piece of folded aluminum foil, then use a brush to apply the Alumahyde. Works great.
I did bake the Alumahyde on the magazines, there are some pictures here: theblackrifle.blogspot.com/2012/01/aluma-hyde-ii-and-magpul-flat-dark.html#!/2012/01/aluma-hyde-ii-and-magpul-flat-dark.html The rifle barrel didn't fit in my oven very well, so I decided not to bake the rifle parts. I will have to try the touch up and see how that works. Thanks for that tip!
It shouldn’t ideally but that one having a solid base it will be fine , but if it was two separate bases and one was on hand guard pic rail it could throw off point of impact. Also ARs are 1-3moa carbines not long range precision rifles where it would ever effect the accuracy enough to matter if the whole scope was mounted to the hand guard even unless it was a super cheep rail and had a lot of flex most rails are very stable compared to a cantilever ak optic mount it would be miles ahead haha.
I just washed (stripped lower, stainless barrel, scope mount, tidbits) in soapy water, dried, hung them, shot off with brake cleaner. Waited for it to dry and sprayed. Let it dry for 24 hrs then into the over at 195F for 3.5 hrs. Perfect. No smell in oven, btw. Wife certified. Earth Brown is almost dead on Ceracote FDE.
couple things I need to ask, how was it applied? did you allow it to full cure? someone was saying they needed to let theirs cure for more than 4 weeks.
I am going to be trying aluma-hyde on my first build with that same upper reciever! I was curious how it would hold up to ejecting brass. That looks great imo. Thanks for sharing!
Finally sprayed mine. It's in the oven right now. I'm hoping to get it back together tomorrow. Have you ever tried to respray any parts after they started to wear? So far the application went well and I had no problems with the nozzle clogging or splattering as some others have reported. That is a nice rifle I hope over time mine holds up as well!
I want to say that FDE wasn't available when I originally bought this, but I've been happy with it and wouldn't be opposed to trying out the FDE color.
Thanks for an honest review...I'm looking at finishing my savage .308. Kind of on the fence between, aluma hyde,dura Cote and cera cote...this really helped me...thanks
The wear isn’t too bad how long was it since you had refinished it ? Do you think this is more durable than blueing ? I have blued finish now starting to wear down and same as you no experience but wannna try with low equipment and cost. Can you do over polymer for grips stocks etc ? Did you paint any internal areas ?
I do think it is more durable than bluing, but not necessarily as durable as Cerakote or some of the other modern coatings like DLC. It can go over polymer parts. I didn't paint any of the internal parts as I didn't want to worry about changing tolerances, but I didn't tape off some of the interior areas either. There was some overspray that I let get into the magwell, which has been wearing pretty quickly.
Sanding or sandblasting is a good idea before a paint job. Parkerizing as a surface treatment creates a lot of texture for a spray on coating to adhere to, so it is a pretty good base on it's own.
I'm thinking of just doing the rail and lower on a black rifle to green with Alumahyde, then doing a Krylon camo top coat. I'm doing MARPAT with mine. You could do the same thing with that rifle, that would make a really good Multicam with the beige base. It would cover your wear spots and really spruce the thing up. Beige is played out, who wants to be in the desert anyway?
I used it to redo my ithaca model 37 featherlight. Turned out way better than expected. I highly recommend sanding/sand blasting every part to bare metal. Scrub everything with hot soapy water. Rinse, then scrub and clean with 91% alcohol. Do 4 to 5 light coats. Use a heat gun in between coats to help it along. Make sure you wait at least 48 hours before handling/reassembly. Cant stress the last part enough. Leave it be. Don't touch it. NO.
Question were you able to color fill after you painted it and waited for the rifle to dry before doing so I want to paint a Glock 26 but want the engraving a different color thanks for any reply if you do!🙏🏾
if you want to test the ability of alumahyde just spray brake cleaner on it. it will melt right off the gun!! try brake cleaner on cerakote it won't touch it.........
That's the kind of upper I want nothing for the pork cover no forward assist just nice and smooth with a slot for the brass to fly out. Current options are slim I thought about the aero precision 9 mm PCC upper might have to get the hole enlarged for the brass to come out but the rest of it's got the right shape and features
I'm just looking for options myself. The color looks great. The wear even look cool, IMO. I just wonder, is there some other layer/clearcoat to make it stronger? Or is that even possible?
the best coating i ever did on a firearm was using high temp engine paint, the trick is to buy the hardener spray they make for them hydrographic kits that hydrographic hardener stuff...works even better then cerakote just try to do the least amount of spraying as possible and i can literally not scratch the finish and it's 4 years of monthly use at the range.... engine paint with hydrographics hardener spray has been the best finish for me and ive tried it all cerakote/duracoat/spray paint/epoxy sprays like aluma-hide.....none of them hold as long as the engine paint with hardener
You could try a piece of automotive clear bra material cut a rectangle of it and apply it where the brass hits the upper receiver it'll stop the damage to the finish it's clear but I mean it's up to you if you really want it on there just a suggestion that shouldn't cost you very much couple dollars stuff last for years
That's a good idea. I've always just gone along with normal wear and tear being a sign that I actually use my guns. But that would be an easy solution.
Looking at the website, there is just one Coyote color. I noticed that Brownells added a Magpul FDE color that was not available back when I coated this gun.
The caps don't represent the color very well at all. I coated a lower in wolf gray which he knew was light gray from pictures so that wasn't an issue but the cap was dark gray borderline black. Definitely look at pictures of completed projects in a specific color, definitely don't go by the color of the cap.
Looks good to me at least you use your weapon instead of painting it and never taking it out of the safe.like half my buddies.lol.nice job just subscribed.
Just a thought. In this video you said several times that you had to check into or look up information. Next time have that information available prior to making a video.
Cerakote is trash it starts to chip once it start to have small nicks like that. It would look a lot worse if you had such wear on the Cerakote. Durakote is best especially the nono series.
@@wilcoxtactical3716 OK I'm looking on duracoats website they have a lot of different products what ones are the best? What's the one from Germany called? Thanks for actually replying!!!
@@PromNightDumpsterBaby420 EC NFM is what it's called but it's very difficult to get. Occasionally you'll find it on ebay. The EC NFM paint is NIR Compliant, which is very similar to what Cerekote calls Gen2 Cerekote or Stealth. Cerakote however won't sell it to anyone buy LE and military.
@@wilcoxtactical3716 Ceracoat won't sell their gen 2 to anyone outside the military? You think The EC NFM is better then anything duracoat has? Have you actually used it yourself?
@@PromNightDumpsterBaby420 yes I have used both products. Both Duracoat and EC NFM are great products. If I had to say which one is better I would probably say Duracoat is only slightly for durability and scratch resistance but the EC NFM is true Camouflage and can be touched up easy if needed after extensive use. If you paint your rifle in Duracoat, Alumahyde, or regular Cerekote under night vision your rifle will reflect light...for lack of a better term, it glows. I guess it all depends on what you're wanting it for but weapons that need to be Camouflaged should perform as such IMHO which is why I choose the EC now. Yea Cerekote reserves their Stealth or Gen2 Cerekote to only military (not just active members of the military but actually on official government letterheads) and LE. Below are 2 vids for you to see what it's all about. m.ua-cam.com/video/0u84jBUpbeo/v-deo.html m.ua-cam.com/video/fZnCNTcfbB4/v-deo.html
This has nothing to do with your paint but if you want better accuracy get your scope raiser off your hand guard. Any flexing of the hand guard will move your sight with it set up that way.
He needs to get a cantilever mount.
MrHuntfishdive Ha that’s the 1st thing I noticed.
True I forget what it's called
That brass catcher needs adjustment.
+SuperSneakySteve I just need to replace it, that one won't stay in place as I shoot.
@Michael Wolff I don't know. It was a cheap one I bought online quite a few years ago. It isn't marked with any branding.
I'm really impressed with this actually. The handguard especially. If you ignore the brass marks there's really hardly anything. I'm about to coat a gun with this, and am really impressed with the results you've gotten.
I've been pleased with it as well. Especially for the cost. It doesn't cost much more than Krylon, but I think it holds up better.
Awesome. It looks great. One question. Did you paint the faces where the receivers meet each other? I'd be concerned about this leading to chipping.
+Aaron Berger I did, so far I haven't noticed an issue, but other than cleaning I don't disassemble the rifle very often.
I did an AR lower in Parker grey and it turned out awesome, but I first sandblasted the metal, degreased, painted then baked. Finish is still excellent after 9 years, no chips or wear of any kind.
Great to hear that! Proper prep is definitely key, especially if you are wanting to use it as a permanent coating and not just a replacement for Krylon or other rattle can jobs.
What the point of a brass catcher if it ain't catching brass?
I can say for sure that, Your paint job will only be as good as your prep job. If you don't degrease and prep intensively, Than your paint job will either look great but not last or just look like ass from the get go. I would go as far as to dip in acetone then sandblast with a fine to medium media bead and acetone again, and dry well. (don't ever use lacquer thinner, it has to many other things in it and it will show on your finish product). The extra nozzles can be found at Brownells, Part number for the Fan nozzle is 084-179-005WB and I would suggest getting some tube cleaning nozzles, part number is 084-179-004WB. Good luck guys and remember, Many many very light coats are much better then any kind of heavy coatings. Take your time and don't skip any of the steps and you will be fine. Peace out..
Good advice!
i don't know why people tell others to get extra nozzles....if for some reason the nozzle starts clogging you hold the can upside down spray the paint for a few seconds until it comes out clear,then you shake the can about 20 seconds and it will go back to spraying normally without wasting money on more nozzles,yall are welcome lol... after you do the process make sure to spray a test area for a few seconds to give the air time to get out so that you are not spraying splatters
@@getbrainseeds sometimes the nozzle get plugged up, if you’re spraying you don’t have time to clean out the plugged nozzle, so you grab another to finish that coat, when you’re done spraying, then you can clean out the plugged nozzles, or throw them away whatever works for you. Some paints have to have a second coat while the first is still tacky. Personally, I always like to have my bases covered, I wouldn’t want to ruin a perfect paint job over a plugged nozzle. Just saying, it’s how I do it, maybe not for everyone. 🤷🏽♂️
next time try baking the parts after you coat them...200 F for 4 hours. Might make the finish harder. Also dont forget - you can easily retouch most areas, easily - just spray some Alumahyde into an old can or even piece of folded aluminum foil, then use a brush to apply the Alumahyde. Works great.
I did bake the Alumahyde on the magazines, there are some pictures here: theblackrifle.blogspot.com/2012/01/aluma-hyde-ii-and-magpul-flat-dark.html#!/2012/01/aluma-hyde-ii-and-magpul-flat-dark.html The rifle barrel didn't fit in my oven very well, so I decided not to bake the rifle parts. I will have to try the touch up and see how that works. Thanks for that tip!
Just did 6 USGI mags. Came out great. Looking forward to the wear marks. That’s the best part!!!
The wear marks definitely beat having a rifle or mag that sits in a safe and never get used!
I like the war weathered look of Krylon spray paint but Ill try this stuff to.
This seems to be between Krylon and Cerakote as far as durability.
I noticed they actually make this in a color called magpul fde gonna give that a try and see how it is
They didn’t have that available when I was trying out the Coyote color. I’m curious how much better the Magpul color matches.
Scope mount should NEVER bridge the gap from receiver to handguard on AR's
It shouldn’t ideally but that one having a solid base it will be fine , but if it was two separate bases and one was on hand guard pic rail it could throw off point of impact. Also ARs are 1-3moa carbines not long range precision rifles where it would ever effect the accuracy enough to matter if the whole scope was mounted to the hand guard even unless it was a super cheep rail and had a lot of flex most rails are very stable compared to a cantilever ak optic mount it would be miles ahead haha.
Unless you want it to. It's not a issue. If you notice if he did, the eyepiece would be halfway up the buffer tube
I just washed (stripped lower, stainless barrel, scope mount, tidbits) in soapy water, dried, hung them, shot off with brake cleaner. Waited for it to dry and sprayed. Let it dry for 24 hrs then into the over at 195F for 3.5 hrs. Perfect. No smell in oven, btw. Wife certified. Earth Brown is almost dead on Ceracote FDE.
That prep work really helps with long term durability.
At 2:16, tell your wife, "bless you". I heard a distant sneeze. Nice gun.
Ha! I hadn’t noticed that!
I have a ceracoated slick side upper in 7.62x39 that is wearing the same way. Wear looks pretty acceptable to me. I'll have to try this out.
Thanks for the input. I had assumed Cerakote would hold up better overall, but it's interesting to hear that they are very similar.
couple things I need to ask, how was it applied? did you allow it to full cure? someone was saying they needed to let theirs cure for more than 4 weeks.
+Munky332 it was applied through the spray can the Alumahyde comes in and cured for about a week before reassembly.
you can get a brass deflector that mounts on your top rail
I'll look into that, thanks. It doesn't bother me too much.
I am going to be trying aluma-hyde on my first build with that same upper reciever! I was curious how it would hold up to ejecting brass. That looks great imo. Thanks for sharing!
That is one of the few places that will wear. The brass will gouge the finish.
Finally sprayed mine. It's in the oven right now. I'm hoping to get it back together tomorrow. Have you ever tried to respray any parts after they started to wear? So far the application went well and I had no problems with the nozzle clogging or splattering as some others have reported. That is a nice rifle I hope over time mine holds up as well!
Brownell's makes it in FDE, which is supposed to be pretty spot on to Magpul's FDE.
I want to say that FDE wasn't available when I originally bought this, but I've been happy with it and wouldn't be opposed to trying out the FDE color.
Thanks for an honest review...I'm looking at finishing my savage .308. Kind of on the fence between, aluma hyde,dura Cote and cera cote...this really helped me...thanks
Glad it helped!
what did you decide?
The wear isn’t too bad how long was it since you had refinished it ? Do you think this is more durable than blueing ? I have blued finish now starting to wear down and same as you no experience but wannna try with low equipment and cost. Can you do over polymer for grips stocks etc ? Did you paint any internal areas ?
I do think it is more durable than bluing, but not necessarily as durable as Cerakote or some of the other modern coatings like DLC. It can go over polymer parts. I didn't paint any of the internal parts as I didn't want to worry about changing tolerances, but I didn't tape off some of the interior areas either. There was some overspray that I let get into the magwell, which has been wearing pretty quickly.
I used aluma hyde on my ar but sanded down everything first using a pretty course sandpaper. My is holding up very well. Try that next time.
Sanding or sandblasting is a good idea before a paint job. Parkerizing as a surface treatment creates a lot of texture for a spray on coating to adhere to, so it is a pretty good base on it's own.
I'm thinking of just doing the rail and lower on a black rifle to green with Alumahyde, then doing a Krylon camo top coat. I'm doing MARPAT with mine. You could do the same thing with that rifle, that would make a really good Multicam with the beige base. It would cover your wear spots and really spruce the thing up. Beige is played out, who wants to be in the desert anyway?
Not sure how sold I am on Aluma Hyde II, but I DEFINITELY don't want that brass catcher.
That seems to be the common theme in the comments. I definitely need to find a different one.
I used it to redo my ithaca model 37 featherlight. Turned out way better than expected. I highly recommend sanding/sand blasting every part to bare metal. Scrub everything with hot soapy water. Rinse, then scrub and clean with 91% alcohol. Do 4 to 5 light coats. Use a heat gun in between coats to help it along. Make sure you wait at least 48 hours before handling/reassembly. Cant stress the last part enough. Leave it be. Don't touch it. NO.
Also, it needs good warm air. A cold garage wont cut it. If your cold, their cold type of scenario.
How many coats of Alumahyde II did you use? Also, did you apply a layer of the Alumahyde clear-coat?
I believe it was 3-4 coats depending on the location. A little lighter in areas where fit would be important.
Question were you able to color fill after you painted it and waited for the rifle to dry before doing so I want to paint a Glock 26 but want the engraving a different color thanks for any reply if you do!🙏🏾
Yes, the color fill was after painting and cute time. I was a little more careful with rubbing off the excess color fill with the finished paint job.
@@AdventureColorado ok gotcha thanks for the response
And nice vid review!!!
if you want to test the ability of alumahyde just spray brake cleaner on it. it will melt right off the gun!! try brake cleaner on cerakote it won't touch it.........
Love that slickside
+Nehring they definitely look nice.
That's the kind of upper I want nothing for the pork cover no forward assist just nice and smooth with a slot for the brass to fly out. Current options are slim I thought about the aero precision 9 mm PCC upper might have to get the hole enlarged for the brass to come out but the rest of it's got the right shape and features
I'm just looking for options myself. The color looks great. The wear even look cool, IMO. I just wonder, is there some other layer/clearcoat to make it stronger? Or is that even possible?
From reading the comments I see now that your barrel didn't fit in the oven. I guess that must be a factor.
It is possible to add a clear layer, Brownells sells a matte clear Alumahyde, bit.ly/2YGsAz1
the best coating i ever did on a firearm was using high temp engine paint, the trick is to buy the hardener spray they make for them hydrographic kits that hydrographic hardener stuff...works even better then cerakote just try to do the least amount of spraying as possible and i can literally not scratch the finish and it's 4 years of monthly use at the range.... engine paint with hydrographics hardener spray has been the best finish for me and ive tried it all cerakote/duracoat/spray paint/epoxy sprays like aluma-hide.....none of them hold as long as the engine paint with hardener
You could try a piece of automotive clear bra material cut a rectangle of it and apply it where the brass hits the upper receiver it'll stop the damage to the finish it's clear but I mean it's up to you if you really want it on there just a suggestion that shouldn't cost you very much couple dollars stuff last for years
That's a good idea. I've always just gone along with normal wear and tear being a sign that I actually use my guns. But that would be an easy solution.
i know u said it was coyote but my coyote top looks grayish is there one coyote color or more?
Looking at the website, there is just one Coyote color. I noticed that Brownells added a Magpul FDE color that was not available back when I coated this gun.
How did you retain the red safe/fire markings when painting?
I added the marks back with a paint pen, I have an older video on the process here: ua-cam.com/video/0CKES7pKvas/v-deo.html
The caps show coyote being darker looking so is magpul fde even more lighter?
I’m not sure, I haven’t actually used the Magpul FDE.
The caps don't represent the color very well at all. I coated a lower in wolf gray which he knew was light gray from pictures so that wasn't an issue but the cap was dark gray borderline black. Definitely look at pictures of completed projects in a specific color, definitely don't go by the color of the cap.
20/10 brass catcher
Can you put that on a ar barrel?
Yes, this is a 6.8 SPC upper with the Alumahyde applied to the barrel.
Is air drying it makes it weaker?
I put mine in the oven when I sprayed it, but Brownell's doesn't require baking. They just recommend a longer curing time if you air dry it.
Looks good to me at least you use your weapon instead of painting it and never taking it out of the safe.like half my buddies.lol.nice job just subscribed.
Thanks, I own a few guns that I don't shoot as much as I would like, but everything I own is there to shoot. No safe queens at my house!
Just a thought. In this video you said several times that you had to check into or look up information. Next time have that information available prior to making a video.
I agree, this is an older video, I try to have more of that ready to go now.
Every time lol I crack up seeing that brass fly lol 😂
Hahahaha it’s pretty epic 🤣
What's up with that upper?
It is a DPMS Lopro designed without a forward assist or dust cover. It is also “beefier” to support heavy barrels.
What color was that?
It is the Coyote color.
Beauty
Lmfao nice shell catcher ftw
Its paint. It will chip.
That brass catcher isn’t doing shit 😂
Yeah, it’s not the best design.
Cerakote is trash it starts to chip once it start to have small nicks like that. It would look a lot worse if you had such wear on the Cerakote. Durakote is best especially the nono series.
if carried any gun with any finish for a week in the bush...you'd be surprised surprised surprised...big time ...
Alumahyde2 is better
They were still on the first version when I painted this rifle, I would certainly use the newer coating on the next.
@@AdventureColorado I've used it and sat a lower in lacquer thinner and it didnt come off.
You fools wanna blame the product when your set up is garbage 😂
Get yer scope off the hand guard champ
What's the most durable coating that you can buy?
Duracoat is about the best. My experience is its better than Cerekote. There is 1 better than both but you'll have to order it from Germany.
@@wilcoxtactical3716 OK I'm looking on duracoats website they have a lot of different products what ones are the best? What's the one from Germany called? Thanks for actually replying!!!
@@PromNightDumpsterBaby420 EC NFM is what it's called but it's very difficult to get. Occasionally you'll find it on ebay. The EC NFM paint is NIR Compliant, which is very similar to what Cerekote calls Gen2 Cerekote or Stealth. Cerakote however won't sell it to anyone buy LE and military.
@@wilcoxtactical3716 Ceracoat won't sell their gen 2 to anyone outside the military? You think The EC NFM is better then anything duracoat has? Have you actually used it yourself?
@@PromNightDumpsterBaby420 yes I have used both products. Both Duracoat and EC NFM are great products. If I had to say which one is better I would probably say Duracoat is only slightly for durability and scratch resistance but the EC NFM is true Camouflage and can be touched up easy if needed after extensive use. If you paint your rifle in Duracoat, Alumahyde, or regular Cerekote under night vision your rifle will reflect light...for lack of a better term, it glows. I guess it all depends on what you're wanting it for but weapons that need to be Camouflaged should perform as such IMHO which is why I choose the EC now. Yea Cerekote reserves their Stealth or Gen2 Cerekote to only military (not just active members of the military but actually on official government letterheads) and LE. Below are 2 vids for you to see what it's all about.
m.ua-cam.com/video/0u84jBUpbeo/v-deo.html
m.ua-cam.com/video/fZnCNTcfbB4/v-deo.html
Is cerakote the best/most durable???
Cerakote would be a great choice if your priority is durability.