This is the best video I've seen on replacing the Engine Cooling Temperature Sensor! THANK YOU for posting. My local garage (not a Jeep dealer) misdiagnosed my problem and wanted $1225 to replace the thermostat housing!! Crazy. They actually said oh we are going to replace the thermostat and housing that is why it is so expensive .... um excuse me but it only comes as an assembly so yea of course you are replacing that $40 part. Once I told them I had already replaced the thermostat (I did it for ~$50) they decided it would be $885 to replace this ECT sensor! No thank you. After seeing this video I will do it myself. The garage didn't actually do any troubleshooting other than read the code then blindly suggest thermostat replacement, very frustrating. I won't be going back to that garage.
Hey there, Great vid but one parts of miss information at the 6:00ish mark you reference the "expensive rivets" but they are actually clips and come yes once ruined will need to be replaced, but can easily be removed properly and re-used. Just get a small pick to poke around center pin and lift it out to where you can pull it with needle nose pliers. Once lifted up and out can easily be pryed on and removed . Hope this helps someone
If you don't have an OBDII scanner, Jeep JKs will give you the engine code on the dashboard. All you do is insert the key into the ignition and turn the ignition to the "on" position 3 times in a row...
Stumbled upon this vid that deals with my exact error code. Kind of sucks you have to take the inner fender off. Would have been nice to be able to get at it from under the hood. Nice troubleshooting and explanation of your troubleshooting results. Did the same thing for my jeep, gets killer heat and engine temp is good. Looks like I'll be doing this same fix. I have a 2014 Jeep Wrangler Sahara. Might be able to use your exact part numbers. Thanks for posting this vid.
Couldn't you also pop the steering shaft off to access this as well? Seems like there's a good gap there that would only take a bolt or two in order to be able to access? EDIT: I did exactly this to access mine. A bit tighter, but doable with the right tools and only requires removing one bolt from the lower steering shaft, to pull it off
I live in a rental and don't wven have a driveway. The neighborhood is mostly homeowners so working on cars on the street draws frowns. So I was using a local garage for basic maintenance and repairs. They tried to charge me 800 bucks to do this. Looks like the neighbors are going to frown a little today.
May I ask a silly question? Is this the same one that is on the oil cooler unit or something different? I just replaced my cooler and now have a sensor error. Trying to avoid opening up my whole engine bay again. Thank you!
Just FYI on the teflon thread tape - you applied it backwards on to the coolant temperature sensor. The direction of the tape should always go on so when you thread the sensor in, the tape will not unwind!
How much have you driven it since replacing the sensor? Did it solve the P0128 code? Or still have to replace thermostat. I should have done sensor first because my temp read fine on my gauge too but I chose to change the thermostat. Seemed easy. There’s two bolts, top one came out like butter but bottom one snapped. Was tough to extract but I got it after taking the crossover housing out. I have to wait another 12 hours for gasket maker to cure before I can refill it with fluid and see if it fixed it or if I have to do sensor. Just curious if that fixed your problem.
So I just did this repair and the connector won’t fully lock on to the new sensor it’ll click and lock on but if I give it a decent tug/pull it’ll pop off. And I’m still getting the check engine light
Help! I replaced the thermostat first (thinking it was that) and the code went away from the dash but remained on the code reader as a permanent code. Coolant temp at 218 degrees (normal), and gauge read at mid-range but still no heat. Would it be the sensor or something else?
those riffets u were talkin about that u say u messed up. u take a small screwdriver pop out the center button then pry it off the whole thing wit trim tool
I’ve watched plenty of these types of videos, the disconnection of these sensors are the most problematic, and I would say 2-3 out of every connected sensor goes smoothly. Unless if your working on brand new vehicles, I don’t care who you are, disconnecting these sensors aren’t as easy as they normally show in these videos.
@@tbday3322can you explain this further? I was looking at it and it seemed that this would be the way to go, but I don’t know anything about the steering shaft. Is there tension on it? Can I damage something by removing that bolt? Or is it as easy as remove the bolt and then put it back after and re attach the bolt?
@Vin_easel there is just a jam bolt thru the upper part under the brake booster . The shaft is indexed so comes off one way and goes back only one way. Pull the bolt out all the way then the shaft should wiggle down . Once it is you will have plenty of room to get your hand down to tge sensor to unscrew it. Leave the radiator cap on tight you will only loose a cup or 2 of coolant
@@tbday3322 thank you for the info. In a separate forum, someone suggested I should disconnect the battery so the air bag doesn’t go off? Is that accurate? And does the shaft easily go back into the indexed part, or is there a lot of tension? Do I need any special tools to get it back in place? Thank you for your help
@Vin_easel disconnecting battery is never a bad idea . I didn't only had to wiggle the shaft by hand slipped right down . It should slide fairly easily it's designed to collapse in a crash. Turn the wheel till you can access the bolt then lock the steering wheel with the key nothing should move .
I have searched everywhere on the internet and cannot find that code reader that you're talking about torque Lite, could you give me a link for more information so I can find it
Noooooooo..... This is a 15 minute repair . All you need to do is take the one bolt out of the steering shaft and lay it to the side for easy access to the sensor
Following this vid, I very easily changed the sensor myself, on my gf's 2017 Jeep Wrangler Sport, no doubt saving her like $300. Thank you!
This is the best video I've seen on replacing the Engine Cooling Temperature Sensor! THANK YOU for posting. My local garage (not a Jeep dealer) misdiagnosed my problem and wanted $1225 to replace the thermostat housing!! Crazy. They actually said oh we are going to replace the thermostat and housing that is why it is so expensive .... um excuse me but it only comes as an assembly so yea of course you are replacing that $40 part. Once I told them I had already replaced the thermostat (I did it for ~$50) they decided it would be $885 to replace this ECT sensor! No thank you. After seeing this video I will do it myself. The garage didn't actually do any troubleshooting other than read the code then blindly suggest thermostat replacement, very frustrating. I won't be going back to that garage.
Glad I could help.
Hey there, Great vid but one parts of miss information at the 6:00ish mark you reference the "expensive rivets" but they are actually clips and come yes once ruined will need to be replaced, but can easily be removed properly and re-used. Just get a small pick to poke around center pin and lift it out to where you can pull it with needle nose pliers. Once lifted up and out can easily be pryed on and removed . Hope this helps someone
Yes
Thanks
Videos like yours have saved me literally thousands of dollars. Thank you for sharing!
If you don't have an OBDII scanner, Jeep JKs will give you the engine code on the dashboard. All you do is insert the key into the ignition and turn the ignition to the "on" position 3 times in a row...
Wow I just tried that... I never knew! It worked
@@Thewar187 didn't work on my 2014
Stumbled upon this vid that deals with my exact error code. Kind of sucks you have to take the inner fender off. Would have been nice to be able to get at it from under the hood. Nice troubleshooting and explanation of your troubleshooting results. Did the same thing for my jeep, gets killer heat and engine temp is good. Looks like I'll be doing this same fix. I have a 2014 Jeep Wrangler Sahara. Might be able to use your exact part numbers. Thanks for posting this vid.
Thought you are not supposed to use any sealant if it has a crush sleeve.
Couldn't you also pop the steering shaft off to access this as well? Seems like there's a good gap there that would only take a bolt or two in order to be able to access?
EDIT: I did exactly this to access mine. A bit tighter, but doable with the right tools and only requires removing one bolt from the lower steering shaft, to pull it off
I live in a rental and don't wven have a driveway. The neighborhood is mostly homeowners so working on cars on the street draws frowns. So I was using a local garage for basic maintenance and repairs. They tried to charge me 800 bucks to do this.
Looks like the neighbors are going to frown a little today.
Thank you so much for sharing your very informative video tutorials 🙏. Sending my full support. Have a great day
Thank you!
May I ask a silly question? Is this the same one that is on the oil cooler unit or something different?
I just replaced my cooler and now have a sensor error. Trying to avoid opening up my whole engine bay again.
Thank you!
Me same question too
At engine oil coolant has temperature sensor too😂
Just FYI on the teflon thread tape - you applied it backwards on to the coolant temperature sensor. The direction of the tape should always go on so when you thread the sensor in, the tape will not unwind!
Great video. I have the exact same symptoms. I will. try this first. Again, thank you for the video.
It will tell you the engine code if u turn ignition on, then off and on 3 times quickly while pushing in key in ignition.
How much have you driven it since replacing the sensor? Did it solve the P0128 code? Or still have to replace thermostat. I should have done sensor first because my temp read fine on my gauge too but I chose to change the thermostat. Seemed easy. There’s two bolts, top one came out like butter but bottom one snapped. Was tough to extract but I got it after taking the crossover housing out. I have to wait another 12 hours for gasket maker to cure before I can refill it with fluid and see if it fixed it or if I have to do sensor. Just curious if that fixed your problem.
No, he has another video out where he changes the thermostat & housing and mentions that this didn't solve it
DO NOT USE THREAD TAPE on this part... Ever.
It's almost like it's a brass fitting for a better ground or somethin. And B, don't ever put teflon tape on brass because you don't need to...
I don't understand why he did it when the one that he removed did not have tape on it.
So I just did this repair and the connector won’t fully lock on to the new sensor it’ll click and lock on but if I give it a decent tug/pull it’ll pop off. And I’m still getting the check engine light
How long can I drive with that engine light on my heat is fine. It’s obviously what you stated in your video faulty coolant temperature sensor.
Help! I replaced the thermostat first (thinking it was that) and the code went away from the dash but remained on the code reader as a permanent code. Coolant temp at 218 degrees (normal), and gauge read at mid-range but still no heat. Would it be the sensor or something else?
The plastic $8 each rivets, you press in the center and they pop out
Should we be concerned that right after you use the knife to open the package, the newspaper story shown says "Fire at site of previous stabbing"? 🤣
those riffets u were talkin about that u say u messed up. u take a small screwdriver pop out the center button then pry it off the whole thing wit trim tool
Check for leaks after the repair AND AFTER you’ve driven it.
I found that pulling the fender off works for me. They did put it in a tuff spot.
I replaced it in 10 minutes without removing the fender. Used some zip ties to hold the inner fender up
4.24 teflon tape is put on in the same direction as you put on the fitting CW direction
No to be used on crush washer applications
Thanks for the video. Great help.
So I’ve got the temp sensor code but my temperature gauge is reading correctly…. Not sure what that means if the sensor is still bad or not…
I saw your car in new west minister we searched up your channel on the window
So glad this isn't on the oil cooler, I was like please...
I’ve watched plenty of these types of videos, the disconnection of these sensors are the most problematic, and I would say 2-3 out of every connected sensor goes smoothly. Unless if your working on brand new vehicles, I don’t care who you are, disconnecting these sensors aren’t as easy as they normally show in these videos.
I just removed the steering shaft and took about 15 min. Don't have to drop the inner fender
Just did one at work dropping steering shaft one bolt and easy peazy 15 min all done
@@tbday3322can you explain this further? I was looking at it and it seemed that this would be the way to go, but I don’t know anything about the steering shaft. Is there tension on it? Can I damage something by removing that bolt? Or is it as easy as remove the bolt and then put it back after and re attach the bolt?
@Vin_easel there is just a jam bolt thru the upper part under the brake booster . The shaft is indexed so comes off one way and goes back only one way. Pull the bolt out all the way then the shaft should wiggle down . Once it is you will have plenty of room to get your hand down to tge sensor to unscrew it. Leave the radiator cap on tight you will only loose a cup or 2 of coolant
@@tbday3322 thank you for the info. In a separate forum, someone suggested I should disconnect the battery so the air bag doesn’t go off? Is that accurate? And does the shaft easily go back into the indexed part, or is there a lot of tension? Do I need any special tools to get it back in place? Thank you for your help
@Vin_easel disconnecting battery is never a bad idea . I didn't only had to wiggle the shaft by hand slipped right down . It should slide fairly easily it's designed to collapse in a crash. Turn the wheel till you can access the bolt then lock the steering wheel with the key nothing should move .
I have searched everywhere on the internet and cannot find that code reader that you're talking about torque Lite, could you give me a link for more information so I can find it
It is an app available on Google play store.
@@PhotomikesGarage I'm looking for the device the app I can find. Tell me where you got your device?
@@G_RAThbun I actually use this ebay.us/ozVJVR Its cheap and works most of the time.
hey there, did you have any more water leaking issues after the fix that you posted almost 2 years ago?
Not really but you have to replace the weather strips every once in a while because they deteriorate.
mine is not on the side ??? Is it behind the oil cooler I seen sometime like that wen I change the oil cooler
I have aftermarket fenders and liners. Huge pain to remove. Is it really too hard to go in from the top? Is this the 3.6? Mines s 3.8.
Is that the 3.6 engine? Is the temperature sensor in the same location as a 3.8?
In some engines the sensor is on top front of the engine block. Making it so easy to replace. My 2011 Jku sport is like that.
Did you have to burp the system after? Or no need
No
at 4:20 sound goes off
be nice to see a view of the spot from the top
Thanks for the video!
What is the torque specifications for that sensor?
Thank you so much
Thanks man!
Thanks!
Noooooooo..... This is a 15 minute repair . All you need to do is take the one bolt out of the steering shaft and lay it to the side for easy access to the sensor
4:05 Fire at site of previous stabbing..??!! Oh no!
I was able to replace it without removing the fender
Lmao did you really just say something high quality from Jeep??? lmfao
I also have a 2014 Jeep Wrangler 3.6 can you tell me where the a/c fan relay is located at its not on the driver side by the lights Thanks
@@isidoremartinez2529its next to brake booster on the side.
Video has no sound. Worthless
🥰🥰🥰