Just a thought. As you mentioned in a previous video, each tooth experiences a rocking motion in use. Is it possible that the lower attack angle of a used up tooth when measured statically might actually increase while rocking during the longer period between raker connection with wood and tooth connection with wood of a used up tooth, thus totally or partially negating any negative effect? I don't cut enough to know from experience if I notice a drastic decrease in performance of older chains. But it's fascinating discussion! Thanks for your vids.
Not sure how you wear the gauge down, all I have used are so hard no file will touch them. I have one that I've used for 30 years; absolutely no measurable wear!
The MAXX Pro grinder has ability to grind the teeth from the same direction (outside-in) on both sides of the chain. Have you compared the MAXX with the standard Oregon/Tecomec/Stihl USG grinders which only grind one way? Is there a significant advantage in being able to grind outside-in on both sides of the chain?
They used to have a switch so you could change direction on grinders so you grinder from the inside to the outside. Because the sparks can come back on the operator they stop making that option also locking nut could unwind also. This idea has been stopped. Most grinders are good these days I have 10 grinders Stihl usg Oregon and tecomek they are all OK. It's mainly operator error these days not the grinder. Wheel selection is also a problem because those cheap pink wheels are fitted to all grinders
@@ChainsawUsers The MAXX is widely available for purchase with no problem. The description says: "This is a unique device because it is the only one that grinds all links from inside to outside and leaves no file or grinding burr behind. According to the latest CE standards, chain grinding devices are only allowed to rotate in 1 direction, therefore it is impossible to grind the left-hand chain links from outside to inside. With this device, you can place the chain in reverse, then adjust both the upper and lower part of the chain sharpener and this way you also sharpen the left teeth from outside to inside". I am wondering if anyone has any experience to suggest whether grinding both sides of the chain from inside to outside gives a better result (I assume it does otherwise why go to the trouble of offering it as an option?) Thanks!
@maciejjandugosz2056 I think you have misundertood how the MAXX grinder works. You have assumed that the direction of wheel spin is changed, but this is not correct. As posted above, it is the chain which is turned around, and the wheel spins in the same direction from the other side. Please look again at how the MAXX grinder is set up - there are no failing nuts or dangerous sparks. Maybe check your facts before telling people to "get real"? I am looking for advice from someone who has actually tried this grinder and can say from experience whether or not consistent direction of grinding is worthwhile. Real-world engineering experimentation and not assumption is what this channel is all about ... no?
@dab. I can spin mine in reverse see video here. Yes it helps a bit but the burr falls away. All my chains cut very good. You have nothing to loose by using that feature. I would use it if my grinder had it
@Maciej_Jan_Dlugosz I am already using CBN wheel with a grit equivalent of 180. I'm not asking about grit, I'm asking about the MAXX grinder. Thanks anyway.
Would a Stihl progressive FL3(0.325") gauge work on a Oregon 80txl, 0.325" Low Profile chain? I wonder if there's any difference between 0.325" and Low Profile 0.325" when it comes to using the progressive gauge.
.325 is .325 because of the gauge don't matter who makes it. All.325 will all be same size so the Stihl gauge will be OK. But that said if the low profile is lower that standard .325 the it would remove to much raker depth. If I had such chain I could measure the height with my digital caliper setup. Have you tried it ? The only problem would be it may take to much off in that case it won't work so well. But if the saw does not bog down then all will be OK and I would not worry if the saw cuts well only if the saw bogs down other options 8f all fails is use a feeler gauge and go say .85 mm when half worn chain and 1.1mm almost fully worn chain. Hope that helps
@elgi131 standard .325 use 4.7mm and low profile use 4mm, you can always tell what to use on any chain. When the file is at the bottom of the gullet, the top of the file should be 20 to 25% higher than the tooth height.
I've never seen chain vise,I just got raker gages from west coast nice videos good story about change
Wow again fantastic video,, very infornative n propesional..thanks again Spanner Man... Keep posting your videos so we learn more n more
Just a thought. As you mentioned in a previous video, each tooth experiences a rocking motion in use. Is it possible that the lower attack angle of a used up tooth when measured statically might actually increase while rocking during the longer period between raker connection with wood and tooth connection with wood of a used up tooth, thus totally or partially negating any negative effect? I don't cut enough to know from experience if I notice a drastic decrease in performance of older chains. But it's fascinating discussion! Thanks for your vids.
Thanks for.your commet what depth gauge are you using
The rocking motion just takes a bite of wood like you would do with your mouth. The raker just limits the bite not the rocking motion
@@ChainsawUsers just a Chinese constant depth. My secret shame. 😁
What is your fixture to hold chain to file on your bench 12-16-2024
I brought the chain vice and made the rest to check attack angle and tooth height
Not sure how you wear the gauge down, all I have used are so hard no file will touch them. I have one that I've used for 30 years; absolutely no measurable wear!
Wow 30 years same gauge
😊
The MAXX Pro grinder has ability to grind the teeth from the same direction (outside-in) on both sides of the chain. Have you compared the MAXX with the standard Oregon/Tecomec/Stihl USG grinders which only grind one way? Is there a significant advantage in being able to grind outside-in on both sides of the chain?
They used to have a switch so you could change direction on grinders so you grinder from the inside to the outside. Because the sparks can come back on the operator they stop making that option also locking nut could unwind also. This idea has been stopped. Most grinders are good these days I have 10 grinders
Stihl usg Oregon and tecomek they are all OK. It's mainly operator error these days not the grinder. Wheel selection is also a problem because those cheap pink wheels are fitted to all grinders
@@ChainsawUsers The MAXX is widely available for purchase with no problem. The description says: "This is a unique device because it is the only one that grinds all links from inside to outside and leaves no file or grinding burr behind. According to the latest CE standards, chain grinding devices are only allowed to rotate in 1 direction, therefore it is impossible to grind the left-hand chain links from outside to inside. With this device, you can place the chain in reverse, then adjust both the upper and lower part of the chain sharpener and this way you also sharpen the left teeth from outside to inside".
I am wondering if anyone has any experience to suggest whether grinding both sides of the chain from inside to outside gives a better result (I assume it does otherwise why go to the trouble of offering it as an option?) Thanks!
@maciejjandugosz2056 I think you have misundertood how the MAXX grinder works. You have assumed that the direction of wheel spin is changed, but this is not correct. As posted above, it is the chain which is turned around, and the wheel spins in the same direction from the other side. Please look again at how the MAXX grinder is set up - there are no failing nuts or dangerous sparks. Maybe check your facts before telling people to "get real"?
I am looking for advice from someone who has actually tried this grinder and can say from experience whether or not consistent direction of grinding is worthwhile.
Real-world engineering experimentation and not assumption is what this channel is all about ... no?
@dab. I can spin mine in reverse see video here. Yes it helps a bit but the burr falls away. All my chains cut very good. You have nothing to loose by using that feature. I would use it if my grinder had it
@Maciej_Jan_Dlugosz I am already using CBN wheel with a grit equivalent of 180. I'm not asking about grit, I'm asking about the MAXX grinder. Thanks anyway.
Would a Stihl progressive FL3(0.325") gauge work on a Oregon 80txl, 0.325" Low Profile chain? I wonder if there's any difference between 0.325" and Low Profile 0.325" when it comes to using the progressive gauge.
.325 is .325 because of the gauge don't matter who makes it. All.325 will all be same size so the Stihl gauge will be OK. But that said if the low profile is lower that standard .325 the it would remove to much raker depth. If I had such chain I could measure the height with my digital caliper setup. Have you tried it ? The only problem would be it may take to much off in that case it won't work so well.
But if the saw does not bog down then all will be OK and I would not worry if the saw cuts well only if the saw bogs down other options 8f all fails is use a feeler gauge and go say .85 mm when half worn chain and 1.1mm almost fully worn chain.
Hope that helps
Yes it will work on any .325 chain as its made for that pitch
What file size should I use for my 1.1 mm, 0.325" gauge, Low profile chain(Oregon 80txl). 4mm or 4.8 mm file?
@elgi131 standard .325 use 4.7mm and low profile use 4mm, you can always tell what to use on any chain. When the file is at the bottom of the gullet, the top of the file should be 20 to 25% higher than the tooth height.