Відео

Very interesting

Stihl testereyi seviyorum. Bir tane Ms 360 var bende. Bi daha Stihl almazsam eger sırf bu kapaklar yüzünden olacaktır

Thanks for sharing

The old x 27 is better if u axe me

Brilliant, very informative video that explains everything you need to know how to use a Stihl depth gauge in simple terms. Very good and very experienced demonstrated video.

Re. the rocking or see saw action to disengage some cutters and keep chain speed high , I'd be interested to see that compared using a full comp chain to a skip tooth or semi skip chain without the rocking action seeing as there are fewer teeth engaged in the cut anyway . Apples to apples , i.e. semi chisel in both cases for Aussie hardwoods .

Pretty true 👍🏼. That’s what I usually do with my MS170.

Thanks for sharing

I've never seen anybody explain this method and it makes sense, I'm going to try it. It feels manly to just power through but then I do bog down sometimes.

Good, thanks.

Learning how to use a chainsaw? other than an uncle or good mate there ain't much other than ewe-toob. It saddens me to say that once upon a time the CSIRO published an excellent book about chainsaw use but this has not been available for a very long time. It was excellent. After the initial publication it was broken down to two smaller publications and then disappeared. I have a 14" bar on my Husquvarna 236 and its far more versatile than I first thought it would be. I cannot see myself getting a bar thats longer. See-saw? great advice 🙂

This video is going to help a lot of people. ❤

Loving the videos👍🏻 I enjoy the fact that you bring up the things a lot of new/novice chainsaw users don’t think about. Great channel to help others understand everything that happens when cutting(and filing). Requests: can you make a video on the actual movement of the chain as it goes around the bar. For example the cutter tilts backwards as it cuts, and the chain actually lifts off the bar a bit from inertia? Thanks for the videos.

Great review of the tool! I just got one and it's great!

Helpful to have options reviewed and shown side by side, many thanks! Been thinking that is it so that the narrowest chain (narrowest groove in the wood) is the fastest? Maybe not necessarily because there's a limit for chain speed (feed). So it's a combination of width and feed🤔 other limiting factors like chain and bar durability not considered at all 😊

M8 Tinker, you are so on the money, my favourite chainsaw YT Guru bar none, professor of chainsaw science, so many people think the chip goes forward of the cutter . . 😬

omg. hexa's 10% comes from narrow kerf

Always food for thought, it's interesting how chips evacuation works on a high speed saw !

If the rackers were for removing the chips then they are backwards. As they are they pack the chips back into the cut to have its tooth behind it scrap it off again. I think the chip stays with the tooth and is flung out at the sprocket and the racker is designed as a depth gauge so as to not stall the chainsaw out if you make a full bar cut.

And this video I agree with. Clip the back of the tooth. I have sharpened the back of the tooth on a chain I was experimenting with few years ago. It did work took 4 to 6 seconds off the cut. B safe mate. Keep intouch

Email sent freind. what country u in? Hope the pictures went through

For my big saws ( 70cc and up ) I run a 35deg top angle and set the depth gauge at 30thousandths, and they don't dull any faster than my chains for my smaller saws. When you get too extreme with the side angle that is when you will notice your chain getting dull a lot faster.

The chains with peak or square filing ,xcut ect hard on bars dressing much earlier ive found, exl round file for me

STIHL currently holds around 2,800 patents and patent applications worldwide. International production and distribution: STIHL manufactures in seven countries worldwide. Our close-knit sales network consists of 42 marketing and sales companies and around 120 importers who supply our worldwide dealer network.

Well explained Tinker ... I've gone down the square ground rabbit hole. To be honest you need to cut a lot of wood to get the time and effort back , if you cut 200+ cubes or are a logger yes it's worth it ..otherwise go Hexa. You'll probably benefit from a barker box and foam filter from West Coast saws and if you're a pro get your saw ported.

The absolute biggest difference is the person holding the file. If you give people a full and semi chisel chain, probably 80% are going to cut faster with a semi chisel after they have filed it just because the semi will tolerate sharpening errors better. This is Hexas biggest cut speed advantage and most people will get way more than 10% out of it purely because it is difficult to fuck up the sharpening process. You are missing a lot of patents. OMark / Oregon was obsessed for decades with trying to fix what they saw as the 2 biggest problems with chainsaws, It should be self tensioning It should be self sharpening They created some wild stuff. Oregon 80 Series 404 chain is the craziest looking chain I have ever seen that worked. It lives on till this day as a 3/8 LP called powersharp that is sharpened with a stone that goes onto the end of the bar. Oregon also sells an electric saw using this chain with the stone mounted in the clutch over. It looks insane but actually works. The 80 series was sold with all the same promises we get today - 20% faster, longer lasting, easier to sharpen and so on

I've watched a few of your videos now and haven't heard you address whether when sharpening, that you need to do one side of the chain, then turn it around and sharpen the other side. I was always told to sharpen OUT of the tooth; in other words, don't drag the chrome across the rest of the tooth. Is that true?

Archer semi chisel 3/8 inch 'out of the box', I've always been impressed with (and everyone I've listened to agrees with my estimation, that Archer chains tend to be hard metal chains, so one needs a hard round file or a grinding wheel to re-sharpen the chain to anything like it's condition 'out of the box'). I still don't think I have figure out how to get that semi chisel stock, to cut through wood as good as when that semi chisel is brand new. But I think I've improved somewhat, and learned how to narrow the gap in performance somewhat. Between semi chisel out of the box, versus re-sharpened. Which is the reason (and it's a bit like the argument for square ground chain), . . everyone talks about handing in chain loops to be square ground, or doing it for oneself, . . but if one could get a place to grind semi chisel chain well, and one had a half a dozen loops of semi chisel, and some mission-critical, or time delay sensitive work in sawing timber to do, . . semi chisel that is well re-touched or edged for you by an expert, would be a great asset. The reason I stopped handing in my semi chisel, is I went back to hand filing instead. And buying more round files in bulk packs. Why? The grinding service I used, just erased half the tooth when grinding the teeth, and even when doing so, the edge wasn't all that fantastic. I said, okay, for the cost of that (particularly in terms of my chains just getting worn down to zero in no time), paying to get a poor grinding job done, and chains not lasting me candle light. I just said, in the absence of a good grinding service, I might as well learn properly how to hand file semi chisel. And it's not easy, there's time that has to be put into practice. Now that grinding sharpening service I mentioned, that I wasn't satisfied with. Would have been fine for the guy who puts Aspen 2 into the saw tank, has one saw to run. And maybe runs the saw once a year. And may have zero time with family life and commitments to sharpen chain, . . even a bad chain grinding service and semi chisel could be good enough. It could be just fine. It's all horses for courses. When I have 'dangerous' timber or trees to fall, I don't take chances. Full chisel, properly prepared and a backup saw fully prepped in case I need it. And that full chisel chain will be hand filed properly, tested out first, and then hand filed again. Why? The less time on it's around a vertical tree which is half sawn through the less risk one is exposed to (granted experts all say not to overcut, by rushing the work and thus expose oneself to risk in that way either). And that's why fallers, loggers who work full time (are exposed to risks constantly at all times), the square ground technology is worth it, because it leads to lower risk exposure. If you're a good tree cutter, who knows what they are doing. And Hexa would be worth it too, for lots of tree workers also, of that variety. The rest of us, full chisel ain't bad if one takes care. Weekend warriors, once a year chainsaw users, maybe the grinding service shop that takes half of your semi chisel chain tooth away in one grind, is probably okay too. Horses for courses.

The new ones have abit more material around the axe head for abit more strength

5%? a worthy avenue to explore me thinks

Thanks for sharing well done

I reckon' the big innovations of modern chain design is safety - less of us are being mained and klilled. Oh sure the chain brake is awesome

Like to see it cut a full tank off fuel how it cuts last 1/3 off the tank Compared to normal sharp

You need to look at both the baby C and chip dump from the inside of the cutter. Both are a way of adding more top plate cutting angle / side plate angle but one uses a small file to create a channel from the bottom of the sharpened section (gullet) across the inside of the cutter. It's trying to create a better pathway to the chip channel hence the name. The other is using a small file to add more side / top plate into cutter than otherwise possible with a normal size file, because diameter. I can't believe my life has come to the point where I'm explaining BBR sharpening techniques.

That's my spear point. I use 5.32 email me I'll send pictures and videos of how I do it if interested. Awesome video mate. Love your enthusiasm. ❤🎉

Great video tinker ... getting more like my square ground every day.

3/8 OK . What about .325 RS, RM or Oregon BPX with those bumps.

Explained well, Tinker 👍🏼.

That file guide is nice but it feels awkward to file. When switching from 4.8mm file to 5.5mm i always start filing too deep in the cutter😅

good vid well done i got 100 year old box wood cun hard to cut

I cut up a big wet yew log this morning. Use 050 full chisel and even ripped it in half with a ripping chain sharpened at 0 deg. I mostly cut up spruce and fir, cedar so not much hard wood. Having fooled around with the angles I have found that the greater the angle the wider the cut because the chain will go left and right with the angle. The ripping with the 0deg is the exact width of the bar and makes a much better smoother cut. It even cuts faster because you are cutting less wood. Years ago I had to cut up some lead into smaller pieces, the only way of doing this is with a chainsaw. I found that it was better to use a small chain than a larger one. Of course you want a wider cut if there is any chance of pinching the bar. Bit off topic but just interesting.

Spear & Jackson used to make one almost identical to the Stihl. Same width, weight and main angle with slight concavity. Only difference is the head is longer and slightly smaller. I bought 3 unused heads for £5 at a car boot sale and after regrinding the edge to about 35 degrees, it has fast become one of the most used. Bit too big for my broken body, but my son is a big fella and has no trouble with it. Never worked out what the idea was to have the little beak on the blade .... but it does not seem to affect performance

The angle of the business end really does depend on the timber you are cutting. I get a mixed lot of hard and softwoods for free... they are all the awkward wood like crutches and knots that the tree surgeons don't want the hassle with. Several different set up mauls gets the job done [and a pile of wedges too on a bad day]. What ever you use, axe, maul or wedge the steel has got to get into the wood before it can split it. Key thing, as you say. sharpen really well and maintain the edge.

One thing I immediately noticed on my EGO CS2005 was the size of the full chisel cutters on it's 3/8lp chain! I have another saw with standard 3/8 full chisel chain, and the cutters on the EGO's low profile chain are as big as the standard! I've been told by another UA-cam channel that the EGO chain is made by Trilink. These cutters look to be twice as big as my other 3/8 picco full chisel chains.

Thank you , I have a ferrex 40 volt saw and it takes 050 gauge chain.

Yes we both agree on that. I hate those 043 safety chains also

Definitely good advice. And I agree 100% on .050 rapid super, 3617 63PS on smaller stihl saws. .043 is a pain to break and sharpen compared to. 050 non safety.

Thank you for clearing that up ..

Mate, this is fantastic stuff. Really enjoy your videos and the topics you're covering! Where are you located? I'm guessing down under?

This would be awesome if it tilted to 45° and could accommodate double chisel bit files 🤔