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SAAB 9-3 Front End Rebuild: Disassembly of the Old Junk
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- Опубліковано 17 лют 2021
- In this video I show the detailed disassembly process of removing NG 9-3 (2003-2012) front brake calipers, pads, rotors, wheel bearings, sway bar end links, control arms, struts, and strut mounts. Car shown in video is my 2008 Saab 9-3 Aero with 314mm front brakes and rotors. Non Aero models will slightly differ but will be a similar process for most components. Be sure to like, share and subscribe to see the part 2 reassembly process! Links below.
Strut compressor tool rented from Advance Auto Parts that was used in video: shop.advanceautoparts.com/p/p...
Double check fitment on your particular Saab 9-3 for the follow parts installed in video
1.) Moog brand front wheel bearing. One per side. (#513191): amzn.to/37mp4KY
2.) Moog brand front sway bar endlinks. One per side. (#K80477): amzn.to/3asshKX
3.) Moog brand front strut mounts. One per side. (#K160241): amzn.to/3au2S3G
4.) Moog brand driver side for USA cars front control arm (#RK620570): amzn.to/3auEM96
5.) Moog brand passenger side for USA cars front control arm (#RK620571): amzn.to/3pBVpEc
6.) Raybestos brand front brake pad set for Aero 314mm models (#MGD1257M): [bought on clearance]
7.) Raybestos brand front painted front 314mm rotors. One per side. (#980578): amzn.to/3qxAjI2
8.) Raybestos brand front slider pin set. One set needed per side. (#H5025W): amzn.to/2NCdl4d
Need to know how to change your rear wheel bearings? Click here for that install: • SAAB Rear Wheel Bearin...
Instagram @ weakest of weeks: / weakestofweeks
Feel free to contact me at: WeakestOfWeeks@gmail.com
DISCLAIMER: This video, description, and comments contain affiliate links, which means that if you click on one of the product links, I’ll receive a small commission. This helps support the channel and allows us to continue to make videos like this. Thank you for the support!
This is a really good video and demonstrates many of the frustrations I experience.
Next time you are unsure on whether a female allen or torx bolt, well any bolt really is seized or rusty. An engineer boss of mine taught me this, which I successfully used on that brake disk bolt when I just removed my 9-3 rotors. Insert the driver bit, mine was a socket style, add a little pressure towards removing it, and not so gently tap it with a hammer or rubber mallet repeatedly, whilst applying constant pressure to unscrew it. I was liberal with penetrating oil as well. Keep tapping it with reasonable force, and apply just a little more pressure to unscrew it, your efforts will generally pay off with the bolt intact. Mine will need to be replaced, but the thread is clean and empty.
Very detailed. Love it!
Great stuff guy! Thanks
Keep em coming plzzzz
Very informative video, this summer I'll be doing some front end work myself. Anyway great job and stay warm, damn weather.
Well said! Thank you for watching!!
@@WeakestofWeeks oh and I'm enjoying the longer videos, I'm a visual learner so videos like yours and Chrisfix are very helpful. As much detail as possible.
The brake fluid reservoir cap normally has a vent built into it. Compressing the brake servo can cause the reservoir to overflow, however. I have a turkey baster dedicated for use in the shop for that.
This helps so much. My wheel bearing does want to come out. So I guess I gotta hit it from the back.
Glad the video helped! Mine were rusted in pretty good. PB blast and a big hammer should do the trick!
Hi, about that little "retaining screw" for the rotor - I had same issue as you few times. If you stripped that screw with alan key, use proper size star shape socket, hammer it in and use your Ryobi impact at setting No. 1 (btw I have same impact "gun" ;) ). It works for me every time. Hope you try it at future.
Good job you doing ;) Keep it up
Great tip! Thank you for sharing!!
To clarify, when you remove the axle on the right side of the car, you will not loose transmission fluid. The right side axle fits into a bearing, not the transmission. The left axle does, indeed go into the transmission and when it is removed, you will loose some fluid.
Ah yes, I forgot about the intermediate shaft going from the transmission to the front right axle on FWD cars so no fluid would be lost then. Good catch and clarification. Thank you! I wonder if XWD cars would lose transfer case fluid if the right axle is pulled?
Some of us are maybe wondering what happened to the auto-dim side mirrors wiring install. Did you finish it or still haven’t had the chance?
I actually like how you asked about that! Keeps me accountable haha. At this point in time I have not finished it yet but I know what I need to do to finalize the install. Unfortunately, I just haven't had time with the major wheel bearing and brake maintenance my car needed. I have a few other vids lined up next but it's on my radar to finish soon!
Yeah, I totally understand. I just recently watched that video as I’m in the middle of retrofitting some options to my car and was wondering if it got finished. Will definitely be waiting :D
Oh I don't know if you checked out A1 auto but they have really good prices on brakes and rotors, just a FYI.
I have not. Good to know thank you for mentioning!
@@WeakestofWeeks Your welcome I have a silver 07 Arc and A-1 auto was the best price I could fine
Good work on da Saab. I got 2 of them, 2003 Saab 9-3 Linear that has been transformed to Aero minus 3" DP which I am going to purchase in about a week or so, and my 2009 Saab 9-3 Aero V6 which I am currently rebuilding the motor now (bought it for $250, BIG GRIN). I've seen the video when you did your Blue Saab Aero, it's the same color. I will send pics when I get a chance.
Great video, but pls shovel the driveway before you drive on top of snow.
Haha truth! I shoveled the next day and the compacted snow from running it over was a struggle to remove. Live and learn I suppose!