2003+ Saab 9-3 Lower Control Arm Replacement!
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- Опубліковано 13 сер 2021
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Outro song: • BVRNOUT - Take It Easy... - Авто та транспорт
Even the Body panel seam sealant on these cars is artwork. I was amazed how straight and perfect it was applied, even where nobody will ever see it. The doorskin work in a convertible is flawless. Definitely not the case with my other brand cars. Trollhattan had perfectionists.
agreed!
Lmfao my man could’ve EASILY skipped breaking his nose but decided to slow mo time loop it 😂 respect
lol thanks!
That thing on the left side is the auto adjustment for the Xenon headlights. You should have one in the rear of the car as well.
yep, thanks!
It’s funny how relatable your content is. I use you videos as reference when doing just about everything I’ve had to do on my 9-3.
Haha. I’m glad I can help ya out with stuff :)
I swear man this guy helps a lot especially since this Saab is my second vehicle ever and the 30 min projects always take me longer 🤣
Nice vid homie, thanks. Pro tip: Strut tower braces on all your cars. Mine feels like it's on rails. ;)
yeah, it's a mod i'll probably get to eventually lol! thanks
Yes agree !
Ouch. I felt that.
After new hubs... struts... breaks and pads this has to be the next project for me too...
Great work as always dude.
thank you! lol
6:36 that thing that your not sure of is an automatic headlight leveller. It’s mounted to the control arm and it has little joints on it that move. As they adjust dependent on inclines and declines on hills. They will make the ecu move the headlights up or down to keep the beam consistent on the road. I broke mine on my 2003 93 and forever had a headlight malfunction warning.
Some seriously advanced cars for their time if you ask me.
yep, thanks for enlightening me!
You work so well! Thank you and best wishes sir. Eddie
thanks Eddie!
Great video brother! This made the replacement easy. Thank you..🤙
Happy to help!
Great vid, thanks. I have the same side to side movement described at speed. It happens at a certain point of turn-in ONLY when turning right. I thought it was something to do with the 4WS, but the rear components are solid. Just checked the left front CA and ball joint is bad. Bushings seem fine. Had the right replaced by a shop when they fitted new struts about 25K miles ago. Gonna check that right one next. Any thoughts on the 4WS??
Another great video..thank you....keep 'em coming! M
thanks!
My 9-3 was wandering on the road and I found the 2 rear trailing arm bushings were gone causing the problem, it was a fairly big job to replace them but it's driving lovely now. You should check yours!? 🤔
thanks for the advice!
Not sure if you figured out your full-car shimmy in corners, but I’d bet the farm it’s one or both of your rear tow adjuster bars. Replace them and have fun understeering again!
it ended up being the steering rack
Awesome vid :)
thanks!
The nose shot.....man that hurt to watch in slomo. Glad it didn't get broke. You handled it better than me. A hit in the nose is a rage trigger. Lol...There would have been a long string of delete-ables woven together in a masterful tapestry even a sailor would blush at. XD
Perfect timing! I did new struts, links and tie rods recently and THEN started noticing the sound of dry ball-joint when turning, coming from the driver side front wheel. Man....She just had to wait til now, after the alignment is done.... XD
haha, thanks
You were tightening those bolts with the breaker bar when you gave up and got the impact :D No wonder they weren't coming out with the breaker bar ;)
The "motor" you mention on your left side control arm is the xenon level sensor :)
yep! thanks
Front ball joints/control arms for sure I had this happen on my Saturn aura epsilon platform things
thanks for the advice :)
Check front and rear wheel bearing. and the rear suspension in general. There are alot of bushings back there that cause wandering that acts like front end looseness on the FWD versions at least.
Bad hubs are easy to ID. This is assuming that inner and outer tierods are tight. I had to replace inners on my 08 Aero FWD at 225k miles, as they were worn too much and wandering all over the place when I hit rutted roads.
thanks for the tip!!
It was really cool 👍🏻
thanks
Hey, which brand arm you bought? Thanks.
On the left side, it should be the hight leveling control arm for the ligths. What make ma a little supriced is, why you not steelbrush the bolts and nuts, and also put on like copper grease on them. This make the nut and bolts come loose much easier the next time. Beside this great videos. Keep up working on our beloved Saabs.
My car wasn’t rusted or anything so that’s why I kind of took those shortcuts.
Hi! How much Miles in that LC arm? THX
That little bracket is for headlight auto leveling
yep, thanks!
This is why I love your channel n videos because you show the good and bad the struggles and the easy stuff not just make look easier than it actually like other channels
hahaha, thank you! gotta be realistic
The lever on the one controll arm is for the hight regulator for the xenon lights on the car
ype, thanks!
Hahahahaha @ the breaker bar.
Yesterday trying to open lock module I smacked myself in the face with some
pliers so I feel you brother
😫😫
@@AutoAutopsy wanted to ask where did you buy the control arms?
Are these movotech control arms?
Yea I’m a big Saab fan
I'm a big fan of YOU!
De jó lenne ha ilyen könnyen szét jönne ! Csak összevan rohadva minden csap!
Well done like always dude ,
Swedish registration number 😄
I have the same car , what do you have for brakes on video,they look awesome 😎
Thank you. These: ua-cam.com/video/NdTqZ-ZFrfY/v-deo.html
the lower arm sensor is for the xenon lights
yes. it sliped right in!
:)
Quick tip! Fitting the front control arm to the steering knuckle. Push the rotor and knuckle until the tip of the control arm is almost touching the brake dust cover. Set the pin vertically and then line it up under the hole in the knuckle. Once you do this it just slides in by pushing up on the end of the control arm.
No need for a jack or to use a jack to push the pin in the knuckle!
I just replaced the alternator on my Aero. 😬 Doable without dropping the engine cradle if you can squeeze everything in . . . You have to remove the axle for this.
good idea
Doesn't seem to work for me. I have the the rear bushing bolts in and tight, the front in and loose, but still can't get the ball joint to line up with the knuckle to finish the job, even when moving the pin vertically. If vertical, the pin sits inboard of the hole, if I direct the pin pointing outboard at the hole and use the jack the knuckle just gets pushed out further outboard. Any tips?
@@General_Crock Try the reverse. Take the control arm off the subframe. then put the pin through the knuckle. After that then mount control arm to frame.
@@chilidogcats thx- will give it a go.
Any tips on getting the forward bushing lined up to bolt in? So close...
Does anyone here know if the 03+ 9-5 aluminum control arms work on a 01 9-5 aero?
are those control arms interchangeable with cadillac bls 2007 2.0T?
they might be; id look at part numbers for both to see
Omg weird I just did mine today what a coincidence
:(
What rotors and calipers are those? I want some that look that nice for mine
stock TX calipers with R1 concepts 345mm rotors
ua-cam.com/video/NdTqZ-ZFrfY/v-deo.html
Ouch I felt that done that many times I normally throw somthing really far when that happens 😂
pain :(
What wheels are you running, they look nice. I've been considering 19's but i want them on 225/40r19s rather than the conventional 35 aspect ratio that most ppl go for.
Also I'm currently in the middle of this job lol. Can't get that bloody balljoint out though lol. Cars are pain lol
They’re variant xenon! ua-cam.com/video/dHonZ7gbxVk/v-deo.htmlsi=vTIfoNf7Qjync5EN
@@AutoAutopsy video was great 19x8.5 are similar to what I was looking at (19x8.25 is also an option that's available).
Unless I missed it, I didn't hear what rubber you slapped on them though. Just a guess but I'm assuming 235/35r19?
Do you get any rubbing at all and do you reckon225/40 would work? (If the wheels are 8.25j)
The critical difference being it would add approx 16mm to the diameter. 8mm to ride height and 8mm closer to arches
You still have a Saab shop near you? My mechanic tells me I’m lucky that I found him to work on my car😊
perks of living in a big city
Are the arms the same as on the Opel Vectra C?
I’m not sure
Torque specs per Identifix:
- Lower ball joint to steering knuckle: 37 Ft.-lbs
- Control arm bushings: 48 Ft.-lbs (After tightening to specification, turn an additional 90°)
I did not see a torque spec for the two lower bolts on the rear bushing. So if somebody knows those, please post it here.
Good info here, for those looking for exact specs!
On the bottom arm isn't it up and down play that is crucial,
not the side to side resistance .
Also my car is having the shaking from side to side at higher speeds to and these didn't fix it. Plz let me know if you find the solution!! I've been trying to find the solution for a year with no luck
I've replaced everything except sub frame bushings and I mean everything in the front and rear with no solutions but hey it's like a new car now except for the shake 😂
still have yet to solve it
@@cosmosk8s Check your strut could be old and not damping right. I have mine on Beilstein B6 on 4 corners and all the shaking were gone. Be sure to check and rebalance wheel on your car too and check play on tie rods and control arms front and rear. I have installed cheaper struts and shock absorbers 1 year before I decided on Beilstein. It's cost more but the ride is night and day compared to stock or cheap strut/shocks. I been chasing for 2 years the shaking and wandering on my car as I owned it, even with new cheaper strut, tires and wheel balanced, control arms but I still can't eliminate the wandering, shaking at 60mph and above. Beilstein B6 also cures the clunking in the rear that I struggled to find for 2 years. It fixed 3 problems. Steering wander, shaking and rear clunking. It rides and hugs the road like a sport sedan does.
Awesome vid! Im looking at 2 saabs should i go with the Saab 9-3 2,0 t Linear Sport stc Hirsch 5d or a Saab 9-3X 1,9 TTiD 180 Linear 5d?
European models. The 93X is extremely rare and in diesel form is a FWD which is a good thing from a maintenance perspective in my opinion. Would you do maintenance yourself? If not, you have to have a good shop nearby with a Tech 2. Any good mechanic can do brakes and suspension etc but as soon as you have a serious electrical issue like a CIM module you will need a tech 2 to keep driving.
@@nolanpratt4291 thanks for the answer dude! Im gonna do some of it myself and the rest of it is gonna be done by friends👌🏻👌🏻
good luck with your choice!
@@AutoAutopsy thanks mate!
Little arm is for xenon headlights
Don't the ball joint pinch bolts just push through and not screw in? I ask because I removed the nut on my passenger side pinch bolt, to separate the ball joint and I could not get that bolt out! I think it is corroded! Let me know. I changed control arms on an older saab a few years ago, and thought they just slid in.
i honestly can't remember, sorry
Question for you. I have the 9-3 with the 2.0t. From a standing start as the car accelerates you get a shimmy/ vibration in the steering wheel. You also feel it in the body of the car. Is that a sign of worn driveshafts or something along those lines ?? The Transmission shifts perfectly it’s just a wobble wobble throughout the whole body of the car during acceleration. sometimes I even notice it when passing people at freeway speeds
im no expert so i couldnt tell you. could be as simple as a wheel being out of balance
@@AutoAutopsy ok thanks. It only does it on acceleration. Which is odd
@@JoesGoldenGarage i'd recommend posting about it on some FB groups!
Did u ever find issue with shake ? @joesGoldenGarage
@JoesGoldenGarage ? Did u ever find out issue with shake
What Brembo discs are those? Can’t find them anywhere
Those aren’t brembo, that’s why. See this video: ua-cam.com/video/NdTqZ-ZFrfY/v-deo.html
sounds like the rear axle problem
thanks
Your tires .
i dont think that would cause my alignment to continually get thrown off, though