Please like and subscribe to help the channel grow. Feel free to leave a comment. I would like your input so I can improve the channel. Thanks for watching!
I noticed that you connected to the #1 test cock on the domestic backflow prevention assembly. Because backflow prevention is important to protect our drinking water. I would have preferred to connect to the # 4 test cock on the fire protection water supply backflow prevention assembly. When connecting to the domestic water supply anywhere on the system we should keep in mind that we are connecting our potable water to a non potable system that could have harmful chemicals in it. With that in mind we hope that the check valve in the pump is holding tight but we can also put at the very least put a hose bib vacuum breaker at the point of connection to the potable water supply. Thank you again for your videos. All the best, Sincerely, backflowjoe
Nice video.. with doing the five (5) year there could be many different scenarios as to accessibility to get at the check. Also what type of check valve. Learned in this business you have to CYA and also take pictures. In the fire protection industry many people don't want to spend money on something that they can't see. Then you also have contractors out there that are pipe bangers or do their inspections in the car yet there are still some honest people out there. From experience its always advisable to keep extra new couplings, a spare check, 2.5" rubber gaskets for the ones that are rotted out on the FDC.
Last month I went to undo a storz cap for an inspection and the storz assembly started to unscrew off the nipple. lol. Fairly new building so someone never tightened it up properly. 😂. Enjoy watching your videos also. Keep them coming.
If it’s never had water on it could the inspector approve 25psi air only ? Also would you want water on it if it’s never had water on it ? We argue that in California. We prefer air for systems that have had no water. And of course Mic would be the argument since it’s for the FDC ?
You must have been a Boy Scout as the motto is "Be Prepared " Good advice and techniques. After 30 years I'm still learning . On a new install I've had to unscrew the swing gate on the FDC and reverse it to test the FDC piping . I like your idea better . Since there was no ball drip installed and the piping between Mechanical Room and FDC was so long , there is a good chance that water is trapped somewhere .
I’m actually just lazy and don’t like going to the van to get stuff, lol. Yeah, I’m a little concerned with trapped water in the FDC pipe. I don’t like long runs like that. I wish NFPA would allow some kind of air test only on these long runs. I think we are creating problems with corrosion down the road. We will see.
@SprinklerFitting That was my first thought, but the building is protected by two dry systems and all of the piping is ran in the unconditioned attic space.
@@FireSprinklerTechyes, definitely like that kit. I always say, it's better to have it and not need it than need it and not have it. I have most of my stuff in a screw lid 5gal bucket.
Awesome video wish guys actually went on the field an did this kind of work. I was wondering what did you use to seal the inside of the cap that you use on the FDC head? I use something similar to it but mines leaks a little.
I’m using a 2 1/2” plug and I drilled and tapped the center with a 1/2” NPT tap. I tapped it a little deep so the nipple would make in further. Then I put a coupling on the other side just so I could screw another nipple in it to hold the clapper open. As far as sealing, just tape and dope on the nipple that went into the 2 1/2” plug. I’ve had it for probably 5-7 years and it’s worked great.
I’m curious as to what state you’re working in as part of the road local 669. As a 638 guy I’ve never performed a maintenance test on just the run of pipe from the fdc to the check. You’d still need to verify the rest of the system is holding pressure. Also kudos for doing an old school “blowback” check and running some anti-freeze through your hydro. The amount of casings I had to change on hydros as a “shop kid” when I started is why I always winterized my hydro too lol. Also as a side-note the “5lb rule” is generally because some guys are too dumb to vent the air out of the system as they fill (which makes filling take way longer) and those air pockets can sometimes cause the gauge to move without an actual “leak”. Keep up the good work, it’s nice to see some sprink representation on UA-cam.
This is not the NFPA 13 required hydro test, so no need to pump up the rest of the system. This is a 5 year test out of NFPA25. This was added to NFPA 25 in the 2014 edition but here is the most resent edition. NFPA 25 (2023) 13.8.5 The piping from the fire department connection to the fire department check valve shall be hydrostatically tested at 150 psi (10 bar) for 2 hours at least once every 5 years.
How would you pump against a storz cap? Or pump into a storz cap. I have to hydro test an FDC that has a storz. I wanted to disconnect the pipe from the FDC check valve WITHOUT draining the system. Then put a drain cap on the pipe and pump against the storz cap. Will the storz cap hold pressure or does it leak?
Please like and subscribe to help the channel grow. Feel free to leave a comment. I would like your input so I can improve the channel. Thanks for watching!
I noticed that you connected to the #1 test cock on the domestic backflow prevention assembly. Because backflow prevention is important to protect our drinking water. I would have preferred to connect to the # 4 test cock on the fire protection water supply backflow prevention assembly. When connecting to the domestic water supply anywhere on the system we should keep in mind that we are connecting our potable water to a non potable system that could have harmful chemicals in it. With that in mind we hope that the check valve in the pump is holding tight but we can also put at the very least put a hose bib vacuum breaker at the point of connection to the potable water supply.
Thank you again for your videos.
All the best, Sincerely, backflowjoe
Nice video.. with doing the five (5) year there could be many different scenarios as to accessibility to get at the check. Also what type of check valve. Learned in this business you have to CYA and also take pictures. In the fire protection industry many people don't want to spend money on something that they can't see. Then you also have contractors out there that are pipe bangers or do their inspections in the car yet there are still some honest people out there. From experience its always advisable to keep extra new couplings, a spare check, 2.5" rubber gaskets for the ones that are rotted out on the FDC.
Last month I went to undo a storz cap for an inspection and the storz assembly started to unscrew off the nipple. lol. Fairly new building so someone never tightened it up properly. 😂. Enjoy watching your videos also. Keep them coming.
Great! Learned stuff again! Thank You
Your set up is epic you really have your shit together thank you so much for this it’s really going to help step up my game
Thankyou sir very useful video 🙏
If it’s never had water on it could the inspector approve 25psi air only ?
Also would you want water on it if it’s never had water on it ? We argue that in California. We prefer air for systems that have had no water. And of course Mic would be the argument since it’s for the FDC ?
You must have been a Boy Scout as the motto is "Be Prepared "
Good advice and techniques. After 30 years I'm still learning .
On a new install I've had to unscrew the swing gate on the FDC and reverse it to test the FDC piping . I like your idea better .
Since there was no ball drip installed and the piping between Mechanical Room and FDC was so long , there is a good chance that water is trapped somewhere .
I’m actually just lazy and don’t like going to the van to get stuff, lol. Yeah, I’m a little concerned with trapped water in the FDC pipe. I don’t like long runs like that. I wish NFPA would allow some kind of air test only on these long runs. I think we are creating problems with corrosion down the road. We will see.
Or the check valve could have been closer to the fdc .
@SprinklerFitting That was my first thought, but the building is protected by two dry systems and all of the piping is ran in the unconditioned attic space.
@@FireSprinklerTechyes, definitely like that kit. I always say, it's better to have it and not need it than need it and not have it. I have most of my stuff in a screw lid 5gal bucket.
🇨🇦
Awesome video wish guys actually went on the field an did this kind of work. I was wondering what did you use to seal the inside of the cap that you use on the FDC head? I use something similar to it but mines leaks a little.
I’m using a 2 1/2” plug and I drilled and tapped the center with a 1/2” NPT tap. I tapped it a little deep so the nipple would make in further. Then I put a coupling on the other side just so I could screw another nipple in it to hold the clapper open. As far as sealing, just tape and dope on the nipple that went into the 2 1/2” plug. I’ve had it for probably 5-7 years and it’s worked great.
Awesome I will definitely be taking notes if what your using thank you for the video and the reply
I’m curious as to what state you’re working in as part of the road local 669. As a 638 guy I’ve never performed a maintenance test on just the run of pipe from the fdc to the check. You’d still need to verify the rest of the system is holding pressure. Also kudos for doing an old school “blowback” check and running some anti-freeze through your hydro. The amount of casings I had to change on hydros as a “shop kid” when I started is why I always winterized my hydro too lol.
Also as a side-note the “5lb rule” is generally because some guys are too dumb to vent the air out of the system as they fill (which makes filling take way longer) and those air pockets can sometimes cause the gauge to move without an actual “leak”.
Keep up the good work, it’s nice to see some sprink representation on UA-cam.
This is not the NFPA 13 required hydro test, so no need to pump up the rest of the system. This is a 5 year test out of NFPA25. This was added to NFPA 25 in the 2014 edition but here is the most resent edition.
NFPA 25 (2023) 13.8.5
The piping from the fire department connection to the fire department check valve shall be hydrostatically tested at 150 psi (10 bar) for 2 hours at least once every 5 years.
How would you pump against a storz cap? Or pump into a storz cap. I have to hydro test an FDC that has a storz. I wanted to disconnect the pipe from the FDC check valve WITHOUT draining the system. Then put a drain cap on the pipe and pump against the storz cap. Will the storz cap hold pressure or does it leak?
Reason for not wanting to drain the system. It’s at a mall with anti freeze loops everywhere and there is a total of 15 FDC’s to test.
I have tested against the cap. Some don’t seal. I have a storz x 2.5” hose connection I use.
Great !!!
That long of a run in 4" for an FDC is poor design.