The reason Big Boy Foy specifically said windex is because it has a degreaser agent. The problem though is that it’s also mostly water. It will clean your bearings but they will rust super fast. The ideal way to degrease them is with 99% isopropyl alcohol. It will degrease them without promoting oxidation as fast. (I’m from the east coast, we know about rust lol)
I use soap and water and never had a rusty bearing. Dry them out in the sun for like 3 minutes. Alcohol is fine to use but your spending more money for the same result.
@@PHeMoX you need to remove dirty grease from your machine parts.. Not stupid at all. That applies to everything from chainsaws, airplane parts and your skateboard bearings. Degreasing is the first step you MUST do before you relube them. Not even kidding.
Isopropyl is the main component in Windex besides other alcohols. Great for a household product. A drop of lube and (new) shields are definitely smarter though.
After my 20 years of skating I know this: pop shields off, put bearings in alcohol for a while, shake it. Then put them out, shake again. Let it air dry and then apply one drop of bike chain lube in each of them.( or sewing machine oil if you have access to it). Put shields back on and use these bearings for another 6 months at least.
@@komoonkh Exactly. These guys aren't taking into account load and friction caused by load. You have to have your bearings oiled because you create friction as the bearings spin. Without oil, you're unprotected from pitting or already existing pits in the balls of the bearing or in the races.
As an engineer, my first reaction is lubed bearings with shields to keep dirt out. However, if running shieldless, then yeah lube attracts dirt. Honestly though, these bearings were originally created for high speed application in machinery. I don’t think skaters are getting them up to a speed that makes them hot enough that the lube matters. 🤷♂️. The side forces probably do more damage to the bearing than running them dry.
And thats why people should use bearing spacers. That way you can tighten down the axle nuts so that the bearings spin on the inner race (as they are intended to do), and also handle axial loads better, because there isent any side to side play.
@@kkfarmedkk yep, when I started skating again I was like, why aren’t there any spacers with the bearings. I had a buddy in the 80s blow out a set of bearings while riding our half pipe because he had no spacers.
I had a pair of Cortina Elijah Berle pro bearings that spun for 1:40 after they broke in. They were the easiest bearings to get to spin out of any bearings I've ever owned.
Sorry being a spoilsport (literally). If you buy Bones bearing, they come with instructions (that nobody reads, but they are probably decades old): "Do not be tempted to use your bearing without any lubricant because they ''spin faster without lubricant". Although this is partly true in a superficial way, riding your bearings without lubricant will cause them to fail quickly and may cause them to 'freeze up,' which is no something you want to happend to you when you are skating!"
I just cleaned 2 sets of bearings Reds (5 years old) & Swiss with Denatured Alcohol, the other with Windex. My Swiss bearings couldn’t even spin afterwards, but the problem was the shitty bearing cradles that Bones’ provide. I popped out cradles from a $15 set of Andale Blues and the Swiss were blazing! At any rate, don’t buy $60 bearings if you’re not going to lubricate them… You can pop shields, but just drip a single drop of SpeedCream to help preserve and protect. I also own every set of Bronson bearings and I would need a sponsorship before ever purchasing another! Spend the additional $20 in a set of Swiss if you’re considering RAWS.
The Bronson Raws are indeed fast but loose their speed fast after some sessions. Lubing open bearings is asking for problems (that will just attract filth), what they always sold me was to never measure the speed of the bearings by just spinning them and see how long they keep going, weight (your body) on bearings creates friction while rolling so the lube gets warm going thinner and helps them spin while cooling them off and resulting in more speed. Any thoughts on that Joe?
Can confirm I used 10w motor oil to lube my sealed Super Reds bearings and they rolled but nowhere near as well as when lubed with speed cream after a cleaning. Switched to Bronson G3's and they roll better than anything. Maybe its cause they're new, lol.
Man, I understand the thought process behind this with cleaning them thoroughly with windex, but I don't see how this could really help without some good compressed air blowing them out afterwards and then some lube afterwards like bones lube.
Honestly, some people just love the tone of dry bearings, without shields. If you run them without shields and use speed cream etc, the gunk builds up fast. As well as defeats the theory of dirt eliminating itself from the bearings.
That's the point of the lubricant to extend the life of the bearings, get you some bones speed cream dog that shit works wonders, 2-3 drops on each bearing and they're spinning good for damn near a month
@@joshuajones589 defeats the purpose of the shieldless, lubeless bearing some would say. But yes it helps to take away the squeakyness. But shieldless bearings with lube are a major gunk attractor!
It´s totally legit to run the bearings dry, if you can afford buying new bearings every few months. Yes, they spin faster when they´re not lubed, but they wear significantly faster than lubed ones. BUT, as soon as you stand on the deck (instead of letting the wheels spin freely while holding your deck) the effect of faster bearings is dramatically reduced because when you ride your deck, you´ll never get speeds like when your hitting the wheels with your feet. Plus, with lubed bearings i never experienced bearings falling apart while riding. I recommend cleaning in isopropyl an re-lubing the bearings every 4-6 weeks. That works best for me an i can ride my bearing up to two years
I think it's a debate of performance vs durability. anyone who tries the windex trick will definitely see it works very well. But you're sacrificing longevity of the bearing. that grease that supposedly attracts/holds dirt is also the only reason the bearing will spin with dirt in them. i think lubed bearing are for those that don't want to have to regularly clean their bearing. and non-lubed is good for maximum performance.
@@localjoe i use low viscosity synthetic sewing machine oil, works fantastic. Speed cream will produce slower results because it does have a higher viscosity (it's a grease).
See I really would expect this to be true, but I've skated the same set of reds unshielded and bone dry for almost 6 years and they roll as good as ever.
@Local Joe Brother your an awesome skater!! Also btw beautiful park and I love those huge Canyons in the back question do you live in New Mexico or is this Arizona?? God Bless you keep up the great work and youtube channel!
I degreased some Reds and removed the shields and using bearing spacers and everything is smooth sailing and solid, no maintanance. I imagine if you cleaned your bearings and re oiled them and put the shields back on and kept serviceing them often that they would last longer and maybe be a little faster but no shields to get dented and no maintanance with bearings spacers is a pretty nice set up.
Always shields on and lubricated. If you don't do such huge gaps that your bearings actually break, take them out once they're "done" clean, dry and re-lubricate them. Bones has a manual that tells you how. Or yt videos. I actually just clean the worst dirty with a towel, take the shields off, clean the inside with a towel, rinse them off under running water, lay them into hot water with dish washer for 5min, take them out, rinse them off again, clean with a towel and dry with a blowdryer, then re-lubricate with Bones speed cream, resemble, lubricate the outside and trucks/axel part as well. Do this 3x a year. Keeps them running for years. Even if you ride through rain or sand, if you do this once you get home, they'll be fine. Just don't leave your deck over night once they got really wet and water is absolutely not a problem, your bearings wont rust if you do this the same day, even if you dropped your whole deck under water. Also buy Super Reds, much better than Reds and only a bit worse than Swiss, absolutely worth the price.
some of my bearings were just ground to a halt. so I pulled the problem bearings out, pulled shield off, cleaned with acetone, and they still sucked and didn't roll at all. they were just broken I think - the little plastic part that holds the balls in place was cracked, and the balls didn't wanna move in the little bearing grove. cleaning bearings is great, but if your bearings are just straight up busted as mine were - there's nothing cleaning can do.
I clean my raws with pure acetone, dry them out, then apply a liberal amount of Remington gun oil to the balls. Works like a charm. Yeah, the dirt eventually sticks to the oil residue after a while, but they're gonna need to be cleaned again eventually anyway, so...this has always been my method. Never use water, vegetable oil, anything like that. Acetone and gun oil. You can get em both at Walmart. 👍
if you do that then dry them and then oil them with just a few drops of sewing machine oil they will be perfect and if you do this and then use the seals then you won´t need to do this very often.
I tried this and my board was super fast the first few sessions, and then progressively got slower but they still roll smoothly... Time to get new bearings soon lol
This might be true for pros who don't really care if a board lasts more than a day or two. But if you need your setup to last more than a few months, make sure it's lubricated
Spin test means nothing because when free spining the inner race is spining around the axle. With bearing spacers the inner race can't move and the wheels free spin slower but thats not the case when riding, your bearings will be faster and more solid with less heat with wheel spacers.
It works if you get bearings from your sponsors and can change monthly. Just a tiny amount of lube after regularly cleaning the bearings will prolong their life so much. I mean just a tiny bit, this will not affect the performance nor the sound of the bearing or the feeling.
For the longevity of the bearings and to mantain the correct spinning way in any trick condition it's always better to use spacers in the wheel (and also checking the right thickness because not all spacers have the same measure, and the weight -cast or cnc machined-)
So how come me and other clean and lubricate, shields on guys have been riding our bearings for 5, 6 or even 7 years and everybody else keeps buying new ones? This is absolute nonsense and meant to make you keep buying new bearings by the industry.
That's a very old hack but the real one is to put the bearings in acetone to clean it up and then put some graphite powder in them. Is way better than oil or grease because is a dry way to lub.
Very interesting. Good to know. I've recently started skating again as I did it when I was a kid. I've uploaded a few videos of my progression and going to continue to post so I have a log of my progress etc. If there are any fine skaters out there happy to give me some tips and advice then ple feel free since everyone is so much better than me 😅
Today I cleaned one pair with mineral spirit and then applied oil. It became waaaaay faster (bones red big balls). I guess it has something to do with the factory lube, which must be really sh*t. Guess it's thicker to withstand everything while it gets to you from the factory.
if you are a pro sponsored skater that gets free gear and can switch new gear every 2 weeks, sure go ahead use no oil and open bearings.. Windex is not even the issue, its great to clean the bearings, however you should then apply oil/lub/'speed cream' to them and shields, it will make them good for 2-3months and you can repeat this process. a set of good bearings with some luck can last you even few years
And after a week of the raws…. The speed decreases by half. And if it touch rain… it’s over… don’t get me wrong, I love the raws but performance just doesn’t maintain as well as a shielded bearing.
@@K_spawnwhat lube do you recommend?? I'm seriously debating whether to buy the g3s, raws N lastly bones swiss. I already got reds big balls coming in the mail today or tomorrow but still on the hunt for the bearing that will take my new nickle board to another level
@@Sonic_the_hedgehog65 the Nickle board should be good with the big balls really, I assume you are using 59+ mm wheels, but really any of the ones you mention is a good bearing it all boils down to the little things you might like, like noise, color, brand name,etc. maintenance is a must! regardless of which one you buy, bearings are machines and they need proper lube for prolonged life, all but the RAW are regular steel so wet lube is recommended specially if it is PTFE lube , the raws how ever use tungsten races with steel balls and and you have the option of using dry lube to keep making nose and prevent dust to stick to them, because of the differences in hardness from tungsten to steel, steel is softer so it's slides better over tungsten, aside from that if debris falls into them and binds the bearing just keep pushing , the tungsten will break the debris and roll again, you can even run them with out lube for a long time but that doesn't mean it won't wear out faster. So yeah any as long as you take care of them
3 in 1 ptfe for regular bearings ( 2drops) , 3 in 1 dry lube for RAWs ( 2 drops and blow through them as you spin them to dry up) , 3 in 1 silicone (1 drop only for any bearing, it's a faster lube but they gunk up sooner)
No matter how long they spin free of weight, they will get destroyed and slow when your weight is on the deck. This will destroy your bearings permanently, it's a trick by the industry so you have to keep buying new ones. Clean and oil as soon as they get slow, keeps them smooth and brand new for years. I've been riding mine for 7 years now. Also get Super Reds, much better than Reds and only slightly worse than Swiss.
I soaked mine in gasoline and winded before cause I’m in pahrump and a lot of wind and dust here. I’ll tell you one thing my guy, my bearings, with no line or shields, never ever get dirt stuck inside. But everyone else’s at the park, no matter what brand bearings, if they have oil or shields they’re all fucked. This shit works
Sorry for asking but what is Windex? I’m from germany is it a Window/Glass/Mirror Cleaner? I think so cause it looks like it :D but because I don’t know much about american brands I just wanted to ask :D But I’m to 99.9% sure it’s a Glass cleaner :D
You already have done this exact video before, only adding in comparing them to a new set of bearings after. But as many have already stated, windex isnt the ideal solution because it will end up rusting the bearings fast. And the reason he can do this and it not be an issue for him: he gets his bearings for free so when they go bad, he can use another pair but regular skaters may not have access to new bearings, in which this "hack" does nothing good for skaters besides ruin their bearings fast. When are you going to cover something that isnt the same recycled content over and over or only talking about "(insert popular person) kickflip/tailslide/crook/frontside shov it HACK!" and move on to new content?
I’m open to content suggestions my dude if you’ve got a problem with the content you can offer suggestions which I appreciate or stop watching I’m not begging anyone to be here. Would love to here some content ideas 💡
@@localjoe myself and a lot of other people have been giving you suggestions in a lot of your community posts, but only speaking for myself, its felt that either you gloss over my comments or you do read them and would rather not respond. Even with this video, its damn near the same thumbnail as the previous one on this exact same topic which made me question if it was a re-upload. Maybe the constructive criticism i give is taken as an attack, but if you read it for what it is, there's a lot of good insight and i do give suggestions for content. Look through your last 5-10 community posts and youll see my comments. But to simplify things: if you've covered it, especially numerous times, move on to something new/different. Theres only so many ways one can kickflip effectively and just with that content alone, you've made close to 16 kickflip "hack" videos of popular/trending skaters, all videos seem to just focus on you using the tips for the video itself and never be relevant after that. And the asking of which video title would generate clicks...that gives the perception of desperation that the content within it wouldn't hold its own without clickbaiting (clickbait is getting quick clicks from what first is seem before the video starts), and a lot of your videos are very insightful and give helpful tips for those that dont hyper focus details like you or i would (i use to literally slow mo tricks in parts and study how it was done). The repetitive content is becoming more noticeable to not just me, ive seen many in the community posts taking notice. Suggestion is to give energy into broadening the quality of the content instead of the quantity of what you've already done as people would always click on videos with "hack" in the title/thumbnail, or only discussing basic tricks, maybe doing tricks that challenge you and if you cant do it...go learn it, and for more than just making content.
The Windex trick is completely stupid. Most of these bearings need lubricant. And destroying the coating that is in some of these bearings is a very very bad idea. Then again, the whole 'shieldless' stuff is nonsense too. You really do not want to allow dirt to run into a bearing. Ever. And no bearing 'self cleans' just be spinning. Comparing old bearings to new ones is a problematic comparison. Chances are huge those old bearings have lost most of their original perfect shape. Meaning it'll never spin as long, regardless of lubricant, oils etc. Bearings can even warp a little bit too when extensively used with significant enough impact. And as most people do not seem to use bearing spacers, they will have every opportunity to self destruct over time. My advice is 1. avoid the mud runs as much as possible, 2. keep your bearings closed, 3. no "tricks" with cleaning products or even really taking them apart, 4. use bearing spacers, they exist for a reason and 5. don't get your bearings wet. Other than that, I'd say most bearings should last you a good year. Unless impact destroys them, which is always a possibility. It's why I prefer the Bones Reds and just get new ones when they have lost their performance.
Bearings sound way better without the shields. I would sacrifice the lifetime of my bearings just for that sound lol. But I do agree that bearings definitely need a lubricant and you should not run them “dry”.
I agree with most points, but disagree with bearing spacers. Spacers are used in the industry when they perfectly fit and put pressure on both sides of the bearings to stabilise them. The problem is that in the skate industry, spacers are not standardized, nor are the wheels (more specifically, the space between bearings is not the same, whether it be circumference or diameter). It results in breaking your bearings faster. If you have a 3d printer, take the exact measurements and put spacers in. Otherwise it's not worth it (unfortunately).
You're a phenomenal oil painter. Your skateboarding on the other hand suggests you may not know enough about this subject to have an opinion. Basic reds will only last a year without any maintenance if you're not skating a whole helluva lot.
dudo mucho que alguien como un profesional se pare a hacerle un mantenimiento a los rodamientos, cuando puede tener los que quiera, recien salidos del "horno".
Although one of the best skaters of our generation we must take into account that Jamie is still from Florida. This sounds like hillbilly science to me
Best in bearings is thick grease. They remain silent. Oil escapes the bearing. Dry bearing? noooop! ...The amount of free spin in a bearing has nothing whatsoever to do with its efficiency.
The reason Big Boy Foy specifically said windex is because it has a degreaser agent. The problem though is that it’s also mostly water. It will clean your bearings but they will rust super fast. The ideal way to degrease them is with 99% isopropyl alcohol. It will degrease them without promoting oxidation as fast. (I’m from the east coast, we know about rust lol)
I use soap and water and never had a rusty bearing. Dry them out in the sun for like 3 minutes. Alcohol is fine to use but your spending more money for the same result.
The idea that degreasing bearings is ever a _good_ thing is laughably stupid though......... Not even kidding.
@@PHeMoX you need to remove dirty grease from your machine parts.. Not stupid at all. That applies to everything from chainsaws, airplane parts and your skateboard bearings. Degreasing is the first step you MUST do before you relube them. Not even kidding.
Isopropyl is the main component in Windex besides other alcohols. Great for a household product. A drop of lube and (new) shields are definitely smarter though.
@@PHeMoX you're full of it.
After my 20 years of skating I know this: pop shields off, put bearings in alcohol for a while, shake it. Then put them out, shake again. Let it air dry and then apply one drop of bike chain lube in each of them.( or sewing machine oil if you have access to it). Put shields back on and use these bearings for another 6 months at least.
Also spin test tells you absolutely nothing about how these bearings ride loaded up with your weight.
I use machine oil only on my Bronson's a drop or two will do to each bearing , g3s /raws are what I ride
Sewing machine oil ROCKS
silicone oil is best
@@komoonkh Exactly. These guys aren't taking into account load and friction caused by load. You have to have your bearings oiled because you create friction as the bearings spin. Without oil, you're unprotected from pitting or already existing pits in the balls of the bearing or in the races.
As an engineer, my first reaction is lubed bearings with shields to keep dirt out. However, if running shieldless, then yeah lube attracts dirt.
Honestly though, these bearings were originally created for high speed application in machinery. I don’t think skaters are getting them up to a speed that makes them hot enough that the lube matters. 🤷♂️.
The side forces probably do more damage to the bearing than running them dry.
That's a bingo.
Exactly, the bearings we use weren’t made for what we use them for. Imagine if we had access to bearings that swivel.
And thats why people should use bearing spacers. That way you can tighten down the axle nuts so that the bearings spin on the inner race (as they are intended to do), and also handle axial loads better, because there isent any side to side play.
@@kkfarmedkk yep, when I started skating again I was like, why aren’t there any spacers with the bearings. I had a buddy in the 80s blow out a set of bearings while riding our half pipe because he had no spacers.
no I wonder why these bearings sucks in winter they need more care , in the hot summer months these things glide like ice skates easier
I had a pair of Cortina Elijah Berle pro bearings that spun for 1:40 after they broke in. They were the easiest bearings to get to spin out of any bearings I've ever owned.
Sorry being a spoilsport (literally). If you buy Bones bearing, they come with instructions (that nobody reads, but they are probably decades old): "Do not be tempted to use your bearing without any lubricant because they ''spin faster without lubricant". Although this is partly true in a superficial way, riding your bearings without lubricant will cause them to fail quickly and may cause them to 'freeze up,' which is no something you want to happend to you when you are skating!"
I just cleaned 2 sets of bearings Reds (5 years old) & Swiss with Denatured Alcohol, the other with Windex. My Swiss bearings couldn’t even spin afterwards, but the problem was the shitty bearing cradles that Bones’ provide. I popped out cradles from a $15 set of Andale Blues and the Swiss were blazing!
At any rate, don’t buy $60 bearings if you’re not going to lubricate them… You can pop shields, but just drip a single drop of SpeedCream to help preserve and protect.
I also own every set of Bronson bearings and I would need a sponsorship before ever purchasing another! Spend the additional $20 in a set of Swiss if you’re considering RAWS.
You're the best Joe, will never stop supporting you 💯💯
I honestly believe he's got the best channel on UA-cam right now.
Thanks guys! I'm definitely trying!
@@localjoe you're killing it
The Bronson Raws are indeed fast but loose their speed fast after some sessions.
Lubing open bearings is asking for problems (that will just attract filth), what they always sold me was to never measure the speed of the bearings by just spinning them and see how long they keep going, weight (your body) on bearings creates friction while rolling so the lube gets warm going thinner and helps them spin while cooling them off and resulting in more speed.
Any thoughts on that Joe?
I wondered about longevity of Bronson Raws. Did you try them? I think they're not what I'm looking for though.
I've had mine four years and they've slowed down significantly
Can confirm I used 10w motor oil to lube my sealed Super Reds bearings and they rolled but nowhere near as well as when lubed with speed cream after a cleaning.
Switched to Bronson G3's and they roll better than anything. Maybe its cause they're new, lol.
Cause they don't have any lube lmao. Its just metal on metal. Stupid shit
Man, I understand the thought process behind this with cleaning them thoroughly with windex, but I don't see how this could really help without some good compressed air blowing them out afterwards and then some lube afterwards like bones lube.
For better results, use KY Gel on your taint.
Gonna put some lube on there today
Paint thinner is great for old dirty bearings. Really gets the dirt out.
@@noooaah lmfao
Honestly, some people just love the tone of dry bearings, without shields. If you run them without shields and use speed cream etc, the gunk builds up fast. As well as defeats the theory of dirt eliminating itself from the bearings.
The Raws feel and sound so good when they are brand new. I’m about to go on my second set even though the old ones crapped out relatively fast.
That's the point of the lubricant to extend the life of the bearings, get you some bones speed cream dog that shit works wonders, 2-3 drops on each bearing and they're spinning good for damn near a month
@@joshuajones589 defeats the purpose of the shieldless, lubeless bearing some would say. But yes it helps to take away the squeakyness. But shieldless bearings with lube are a major gunk attractor!
I’ve had mine for four years, I think it may be time for a new set
It´s totally legit to run the bearings dry, if you can afford buying new bearings every few months. Yes, they spin faster when they´re not lubed, but they wear significantly faster than lubed ones. BUT, as soon as you stand on the deck (instead of letting the wheels spin freely while holding your deck) the effect of faster bearings is dramatically reduced because when you ride your deck, you´ll never get speeds like when your hitting the wheels with your feet. Plus, with lubed bearings i never experienced bearings falling apart while riding. I recommend cleaning in isopropyl an re-lubing the bearings every 4-6 weeks. That works best for me an i can ride my bearing up to two years
You don't want bone dry bearings. They will break down super fast, you need some kind of lube in there
I might put some speed cream in there but that’s why foy does
I think it's a debate of performance vs durability. anyone who tries the windex trick will definitely see it works very well. But you're sacrificing longevity of the bearing. that grease that supposedly attracts/holds dirt is also the only reason the bearing will spin with dirt in them. i think lubed bearing are for those that don't want to have to regularly clean their bearing. and non-lubed is good for maximum performance.
@@localjoe Try to get some Triflow dry lube. When it dries it turns into a wax like substance and doesn't attract dirt as much as grease.
@@localjoe i use low viscosity synthetic sewing machine oil, works fantastic. Speed cream will produce slower results because it does have a higher viscosity (it's a grease).
See I really would expect this to be true, but I've skated the same set of reds unshielded and bone dry for almost 6 years and they roll as good as ever.
I love your little hack of putting both bearings on the truck and turning the wheel around!.... Nice
Been cleaning them with baby oil for 15 years best method I’ve known
@Local Joe Brother your an awesome skater!! Also btw beautiful park and I love those huge Canyons in the back question do you live in New Mexico or is this Arizona??
God Bless you keep up the great work and youtube channel!
I degreased some Reds and removed the shields and using bearing spacers and everything is smooth sailing and solid, no maintanance. I imagine if you cleaned your bearings and re oiled them and put the shields back on and kept serviceing them often that they would last longer and maybe be a little faster but no shields to get dented and no maintanance with bearings spacers is a pretty nice set up.
Please compare Bronson G3 with the shields removed against the Bronson Raws!
Nothing can be better than brand new bearings
Your back 5-0s are nice man. Thanks for the video on this.
Thats why I use speed spray. Its real thin and dries buttery smooth.
Always shields on and lubricated. If you don't do such huge gaps that your bearings actually break, take them out once they're "done" clean, dry and re-lubricate them. Bones has a manual that tells you how. Or yt videos. I actually just clean the worst dirty with a towel, take the shields off, clean the inside with a towel, rinse them off under running water, lay them into hot water with dish washer for 5min, take them out, rinse them off again, clean with a towel and dry with a blowdryer, then re-lubricate with Bones speed cream, resemble, lubricate the outside and trucks/axel part as well. Do this 3x a year. Keeps them running for years. Even if you ride through rain or sand, if you do this once you get home, they'll be fine. Just don't leave your deck over night once they got really wet and water is absolutely not a problem, your bearings wont rust if you do this the same day, even if you dropped your whole deck under water. Also buy Super Reds, much better than Reds and only a bit worse than Swiss, absolutely worth the price.
You should explain the importance of using spacers in bearings
some of my bearings were just ground to a halt. so I pulled the problem bearings out, pulled shield off, cleaned with acetone, and they still sucked and didn't roll at all. they were just broken I think - the little plastic part that holds the balls in place was cracked, and the balls didn't wanna move in the little bearing grove. cleaning bearings is great, but if your bearings are just straight up busted as mine were - there's nothing cleaning can do.
I clean my raws with pure acetone, dry them out, then apply a liberal amount of Remington gun oil to the balls. Works like a charm. Yeah, the dirt eventually sticks to the oil residue after a while, but they're gonna need to be cleaned again eventually anyway, so...this has always been my method. Never use water, vegetable oil, anything like that. Acetone and gun oil. You can get em both at Walmart. 👍
if you do that then dry them and then oil them with just a few drops of sewing machine oil they will be perfect and if you do this and then use the seals then you won´t need to do this very often.
@39 seconds kelly killed us with his laugh again.
I used to do that when my bearings were too worn. It give them a few more fast sessions. But it doesn't work for long.
I tried this and my board was super fast the first few sessions, and then progressively got slower but they still roll smoothly... Time to get new bearings soon lol
Graphite lube? Works for pinewood derby.
This might be true for pros who don't really care if a board lasts more than a day or two.
But if you need your setup to last more than a few months, make sure it's lubricated
The longer wait in windex has a corrosive effect and air drying them well will make hella difference.
Spin test means nothing because when free spining the inner race is spining around the axle. With bearing spacers the inner race can't move and the wheels free spin slower but thats not the case when riding, your bearings will be faster and more solid with less heat with wheel spacers.
I soaked my Raws in Windex , super fast. 🔥🔥🔥
I tried this it wasn’t for me but it did give the bearings a cool sound
Could it work on reds
It works if you get bearings from your sponsors and can change monthly. Just a tiny amount of lube after regularly cleaning the bearings will prolong their life so much. I mean just a tiny bit, this will not affect the performance nor the sound of the bearing or the feeling.
Jamie is my ninja ever...
Does this works with Bronson raw
For the longevity of the bearings and to mantain the correct spinning way in any trick condition it's always better to use spacers in the wheel (and also checking the right thickness because not all spacers have the same measure, and the weight -cast or cnc machined-)
Yes but you can’t fit a spacer in the middle of most street wheels, the bearing won’t sit flush with them in there
So how come me and other clean and lubricate, shields on guys have been riding our bearings for 5, 6 or even 7 years and everybody else keeps buying new ones? This is absolute nonsense and meant to make you keep buying new bearings by the industry.
I wonder how they would work if only lubed with graphite lubricant
That's a very old hack but the real one is to put the bearings in acetone to clean it up and then put some graphite powder in them. Is way better than oil or grease because is a dry way to lub.
Nail polish remover or gasoline works pretty well also
I want to try bronsons but tbh the halloween colors throw em off for me
Some cortina bearings come dry and have a little oil bottle with them
instead of cleanex use extraction gasoline for cleaning and for lubrication use just silicone oil
Very interesting. Good to know. I've recently started skating again as I did it when I was a kid. I've uploaded a few videos of my progression and going to continue to post so I have a log of my progress etc. If there are any fine skaters out there happy to give me some tips and advice then ple feel free since everyone is so much better than me 😅
Today I cleaned one pair with mineral spirit and then applied oil. It became waaaaay faster (bones red big balls). I guess it has something to do with the factory lube, which must be really sh*t. Guess it's thicker to withstand everything while it gets to you from the factory.
if you are a pro sponsored skater that gets free gear and can switch new gear every 2 weeks, sure go ahead use no oil and open bearings.. Windex is not even the issue, its great to clean the bearings, however you should then apply oil/lub/'speed cream' to them and shields, it will make them good for 2-3months and you can repeat this process. a set of good bearings with some luck can last you even few years
And after a week of the raws…. The speed decreases by half. And if it touch rain… it’s over… don’t get me wrong, I love the raws but performance just doesn’t maintain as well as a shielded bearing.
I have Bronson raw and I clean them dry and then apply 3in1 dry lubricant
They spin hella fast, I only do this on the Bronson raws tho, because of their tungsten metal race
@@K_spawnwhat lube do you recommend?? I'm seriously debating whether to buy the g3s, raws N lastly bones swiss. I already got reds big balls coming in the mail today or tomorrow but still on the hunt for the bearing that will take my new nickle board to another level
@@Sonic_the_hedgehog65 the Nickle board should be good with the big balls really, I assume you are using 59+ mm wheels, but really any of the ones you mention is a good bearing it all boils down to the little things you might like, like noise, color, brand name,etc.
maintenance is a must! regardless of which one you buy, bearings are machines and they need proper lube for prolonged life, all but the RAW are regular steel so wet lube is recommended specially if it is PTFE lube , the raws how ever use tungsten races with steel balls and and you have the option of using dry lube to keep making nose and prevent dust to stick to them, because of the differences in hardness from tungsten to steel, steel is softer so it's slides better over tungsten, aside from that if debris falls into them and binds the bearing just keep pushing , the tungsten will break the debris and roll again, you can even run them with out lube for a long time but that doesn't mean it won't wear out faster.
So yeah any as long as you take care of them
3 in 1 ptfe for regular bearings ( 2drops) , 3 in 1 dry lube for RAWs ( 2 drops and blow through them as you spin them to dry up) , 3 in 1 silicone (1 drop only for any bearing, it's a faster lube but they gunk up sooner)
@K_spawn thankyou 🙌🙏!!!!!
Use paint thinner to clean bearings. Windex has water in it.
No matter how long they spin free of weight, they will get destroyed and slow when your weight is on the deck. This will destroy your bearings permanently, it's a trick by the industry so you have to keep buying new ones. Clean and oil as soon as they get slow, keeps them smooth and brand new for years. I've been riding mine for 7 years now. Also get Super Reds, much better than Reds and only slightly worse than Swiss.
I soaked mine in gasoline and winded before cause I’m in pahrump and a lot of wind and dust here. I’ll tell you one thing my guy, my bearings, with no line or shields, never ever get dirt stuck inside. But everyone else’s at the park, no matter what brand bearings, if they have oil or shields they’re all fucked. This shit works
Sorry for asking but what is Windex? I’m from germany is it a Window/Glass/Mirror Cleaner? I think so cause it looks like it :D but because I don’t know much about american brands I just wanted to ask :D
But I’m to 99.9% sure it’s a Glass cleaner :D
yeah it is a window cleaner.
@@seltic13 Thank you so much 🙏
You already have done this exact video before, only adding in comparing them to a new set of bearings after.
But as many have already stated, windex isnt the ideal solution because it will end up rusting the bearings fast. And the reason he can do this and it not be an issue for him: he gets his bearings for free so when they go bad, he can use another pair but regular skaters may not have access to new bearings, in which this "hack" does nothing good for skaters besides ruin their bearings fast.
When are you going to cover something that isnt the same recycled content over and over or only talking about "(insert popular person) kickflip/tailslide/crook/frontside shov it HACK!" and move on to new content?
I’m open to content suggestions my dude if you’ve got a problem with the content you can offer suggestions which I appreciate or stop watching I’m not begging anyone to be here. Would love to here some content ideas 💡
@@localjoe myself and a lot of other people have been giving you suggestions in a lot of your community posts, but only speaking for myself, its felt that either you gloss over my comments or you do read them and would rather not respond.
Even with this video, its damn near the same thumbnail as the previous one on this exact same topic which made me question if it was a re-upload.
Maybe the constructive criticism i give is taken as an attack, but if you read it for what it is, there's a lot of good insight and i do give suggestions for content. Look through your last 5-10 community posts and youll see my comments.
But to simplify things: if you've covered it, especially numerous times, move on to something new/different. Theres only so many ways one can kickflip effectively and just with that content alone, you've made close to 16 kickflip "hack" videos of popular/trending skaters, all videos seem to just focus on you using the tips for the video itself and never be relevant after that.
And the asking of which video title would generate clicks...that gives the perception of desperation that the content within it wouldn't hold its own without clickbaiting (clickbait is getting quick clicks from what first is seem before the video starts), and a lot of your videos are very insightful and give helpful tips for those that dont hyper focus details like you or i would (i use to literally slow mo tricks in parts and study how it was done).
The repetitive content is becoming more noticeable to not just me, ive seen many in the community posts taking notice. Suggestion is to give energy into broadening the quality of the content instead of the quantity of what you've already done as people would always click on videos with "hack" in the title/thumbnail, or only discussing basic tricks, maybe doing tricks that challenge you and if you cant do it...go learn it, and for more than just making content.
Having compressed air that isn't too powerful will dry bearings out WAY faster.
And use spacers
The Windex trick is completely stupid. Most of these bearings need lubricant. And destroying the coating that is in some of these bearings is a very very bad idea. Then again, the whole 'shieldless' stuff is nonsense too. You really do not want to allow dirt to run into a bearing. Ever. And no bearing 'self cleans' just be spinning. Comparing old bearings to new ones is a problematic comparison. Chances are huge those old bearings have lost most of their original perfect shape. Meaning it'll never spin as long, regardless of lubricant, oils etc. Bearings can even warp a little bit too when extensively used with significant enough impact. And as most people do not seem to use bearing spacers, they will have every opportunity to self destruct over time. My advice is 1. avoid the mud runs as much as possible, 2. keep your bearings closed, 3. no "tricks" with cleaning products or even really taking them apart, 4. use bearing spacers, they exist for a reason and 5. don't get your bearings wet. Other than that, I'd say most bearings should last you a good year. Unless impact destroys them, which is always a possibility. It's why I prefer the Bones Reds and just get new ones when they have lost their performance.
Bearings sound way better without the shields. I would sacrifice the lifetime of my bearings just for that sound lol. But I do agree that bearings definitely need a lubricant and you should not run them “dry”.
I agree with most points, but disagree with bearing spacers. Spacers are used in the industry when they perfectly fit and put pressure on both sides of the bearings to stabilise them. The problem is that in the skate industry, spacers are not standardized, nor are the wheels (more specifically, the space between bearings is not the same, whether it be circumference or diameter). It results in breaking your bearings faster.
If you have a 3d printer, take the exact measurements and put spacers in. Otherwise it's not worth it (unfortunately).
You're a phenomenal oil painter. Your skateboarding on the other hand suggests you may not know enough about this subject to have an opinion.
Basic reds will only last a year without any maintenance if you're not skating a whole helluva lot.
Bronson are the worst bearings I've skated I reckon.
Rog was really not enjoying that episode haha...
😂
You want the clear windex not the blue one
Yeah, I'll keep lubing mine. Bearing maintenance isn't that hard.
dudo mucho que alguien como un profesional se pare a hacerle un mantenimiento a los rodamientos, cuando puede tener los que quiera, recien salidos del "horno".
Although one of the best skaters of our generation we must take into account that Jamie is still from Florida. This sounds like hillbilly science to me
Best in bearings is thick grease. They remain silent. Oil escapes the bearing. Dry bearing? noooop! ...The amount of free spin in a bearing has nothing whatsoever to do with its efficiency.
That's because you needed new bearings
Use 99 alcohol
You look like Jamie’s cuz
Comparing how long your bearings spin freely to speed is a fools equation lol
Hell of a skater, not the smartest though
Kerosene. Use kerosene
I’m gay
La mejor parte es ver a gisellee.monster se da cuenta de lo locox que es el fandom real.