Motor Flush in 5.3L Chevy at Low Oil Pressure warning.
Вставка
- Опубліковано 17 жов 2024
- Hi, got 2008 Chevrolet Tahoe At auction which eventually had a low oil pressure light on. Changed oil and used Motor Flush and looks like it solved my problem. Low oil pressure light is very common in GM vehicles like GMC Yukon or Sierra or Silverado v8 5.3 liter engines(2008 2007 2009 2010 2011 2012 2013 2014 2015 2016 2017) . My next step would be removing oil pressure sensor and cleaning oil pressure sensor filter below it. If not then I guess I would drop oil pan and check o ring which could be old already.
![[UA] NAVI vs MOUZ | BO5 | IEM Rio 2024](http://i.ytimg.com/vi/CMBYk0cbGoA/mqdefault.jpg)
The oil filter change that was done at the time of the oil change fixed the problem. No doubt whatsoever. GM engineers have increased the size of the oil filter since around 2015 I believe. Still not large enough in my opinion but it helps. There are two main design issues that cause this to happen. Yes there are other issues with the pickup tube O-ring and AFM that do cause low oil pressure but with those the problem does not temporarily go away after an oil and filter change. First and this is the big one here is the stock teacup oil filter is way, way too small for a V8 unless you live somewhere where it is always 75F and it never rains and you religiously change your oil every 3,000 miles. For the rest of us you can just swap out the stock sized filter at that mileage and add about a half a pint of oil and your good to go. You can get away with that until the oil life monitor reads 25%. Then drain and swap in some new oil with a new filter and reset your oil life monitor and begin the cycle all over. The moisture under the fill cap was a big contributor for this vehicle as well. That is largely what caused the undersized oil filter to fail. Most oil filters use a large percentage of cellulose filter media. Yep, good old fashioned paper. What happens to paper when it gets wet. It swells which in turn reduces the size of particle that will pass through the filter. This sounds like a good thing but it is not in this instance. This is because the oil filter in question does not have the capacity to maintain proper oil flow after the filter media swells due to moisture in the oil from atmospheric changes. This can be simply you live in a humid area and you mostly drive short distances. The second design contributor (I don't want to call it a flaw as it does serve a purpose although as we can see even that eventually fails) is the engine block oil filter bypass valve. This little gismo allows oil to bypass the main oil filter when that gets plugged so the engine is not starved for oil. The trouble is that this unfiltered oil is flowing around in your engine for possibly weeks until enough gunk builds up on the little screen filter under the oil pressure switch to cause the oil light to come on and then that lovely message on your display telling you to kill the engine as you have no oil pressure. Most times a oil and filter change solves the problem. Sometimes the screen under the pressure switch has become so clogged that new oil cannot force it's way through and you have to change the screen and while your there you might as well swap the sender. The simple solution is bigger oil filters. Well ones with more filtering capacity and that usually means larger. For some vehicles you can get away with installing an oil filter relocation system which moves your oil filter to an area which allows larger filters of the Fram PH8 size or larger. Some of these systems even allow multiple filters although most of us do not need this level of scrubbing capacity. Some vehicles you can simply install a Fram PH10575 filter which is about 33% longer. Ideally GM would design every new car that uses the LS engine with a remote mounted oil filter of a decent size. Make the filter a washable metal screen type and factory install a catch can system to prevent most of the moisture from ever entering the crankcase. This will only happen when GM puts customer satisfaction above their bottom line and that will only happen when we the customer stop buying GM vehicles because of the known design flaws. Next time you are wandering the car lot and the sales rep asks you if they can help. Grill them on what has GM done about the undersized oil filter issue in LS engine equipped models. Ask them why GM vehicles require more premature front bearing hub assembly swaps than all other auto makers combined. Ask them why most GM vehicles have very few or come totally without grease nipples on steering and suspension components. They will tell you that those components have lifetime sealed lubrication. Apparently GM has a different version of vehicle lifetime than most of us! Unfortunately the sales rep won't tell you those same "lifetime" items usually fail around the 100,000 mile mark and the repair bill at the dealer is around about $2,000. Grill the sales rep every time they ask if they can help and when they cannot give you proof of an engineering fix, walk away. That eventually trickles down to the people making decisions and things get fixed......or not but at least you know going in!
Manufacturers consider the "Lifetime" of a vehicle to be 100k or 10 years. That's why you don't find warranties exceeding that. Even insurance companies don't want to insure full-coverage comprehensive/collision on anything older than 10 years, hard to determine ACV. The value and "lifetime" to you may be different than the next guy. So no, don't piss and moan at the salesman on any car lot because of GM's oil filter sizes on a car that's nearly 2 decades old...
Glad I clicked this vid just to read this hood info
Do u need a special oil filter adapter for that filter
Motor flush is NOT snake oil. It works and helps clean dirty engines of coking and sludge.
I flush my 6.2L LS in my Denali once a year with one bottle of this stuff and one bottle of ATF together.
It has kept my engine cleaner and actually did raise my oil pressure a bit as well.
However I think I still need the oil pump pick up o-ring.
I had the same issue on my 2011 Sierra 1500 5.3. I changed the oil pressure sensor, cleaned the screen, seafoamed the crank case for a little over 100 miles, changed the oil with 5 quarts of mobile 1 advanced fully synthetic high milage oil with 1 quart of Lucas oil leak stop. Also added a better oil filter and my check engine light went off on it's own. I'm also going to change out the oil pump as well as the O ring on the pick up tube over the weekend. I've searched on UA-cam enough to get an idea of how I can do it with out dropping the subframe, transfer case and moving steering column out the way. I wish I had the correct filming equipment to record the whole process from start to finish but I don't. So I'll let you know how everything goes.
It's the bearings. You need an engine rebuild.
@@elpcmaster I was trying to avoid that but I think your correct.
@Ivan J California I ended up changing the oil viscosity as well. It calls for 5w 30, I put 10w 40 my oil pressure is fine now. I do need an engine rebuild. I have almost 200,000 on the motor. I will probably end up throwing a crate motor in my sierra in the near future.
It's been over a year now since that problem, did that motor flush really solve your problem or did you find out later it was something else maybe like a seal?
I changed the oil pressure sensor and it didn’t solve the problem. I tried Motor Medic and it worked. I believe the oil pickup tube screen was dirty . Not really sure what was causing the oil pressure light to come on while idling but it worked for me and worth a try .
The Motor flush works well. But if not work your issue is the oil pump pickup tube rubber oring. Gets hot. Dries up. A common problem in that year. The oil pump catches air.
I changed the pick up tube. The o ring to it. The sensor. The sensor filter. The oil (x2). Took off the oil pan, cleaned it out. Still the light is on. Low oil pressure.
@Jordy Romero did u ever figured what was going on?
this stuff is like gold. it really works!
Having a similar issue with my 4.2 Atlas engine. My pressure was low at startup, only 30psi, and would drop to 0psi after idling for a bit, or driving 10 minutes or so. Tried Motor Medic flush, as well as putting a gallon of diesel in the pan, and letting it soak for a few days with no change. Then I ran a can of Berryman B-12 in the crankcase, and let it idle for 5-10 minutes, and it got better while idling during the B-12 flush, but would still drop to zero rather quickly after shutting it off for the night. Seems that whatever was loosened blocked the screen more. I then drained the oil, and put 3/4 gallon of Berryman Chem Dip in the pan, and let it soak for 4 hours.
After draining, and putting in fresh oil and a new filter, my pressure was up to 80psi at start up. It eventually made it's way back to 0psi after 10-15 minutes. I think that the Chem Dip cleared the pickup screen, giving me better pressure, but the loosened gunk that didn't soak long enough to liquefy got sucked up and plugged the screen again. Running another can of the B-12 now, and will drain the oil, and re-soak the pickup in Chem Dip for a full day. I'll flush and drain as many times as needed because pulling the pan on my truck is a MAJOR pita, and is a week long job.
It is the oil pump O ring beneath the oil pan. The get brittle after years and need to be replaced. Mine woul come on then after it warmed up it would come up to normal. It was basically sucking some air with the oil
Changing the oil and the clogged filter fixed your problem not the flush
Please do an engine oil flush, check you oil pressure screen, pickup tube screen and replace the oil pickup tube o-ring, if all that fails, try adding 10 small washers to your oil pump spring housing increasing the stroke of the stock spring and producing far more oil pressure, you may want to purchase a larger oil filter as well.
It STICTLY STATES ... NOT to raise RPM or drive with the flush in it!
Old mechanics trick always take all of the seal off of the bottle. Never know if that seal will go down the fill hole.
Clean the screen under the oil pressure sensor if its not that its the o ring in the oil pickup tube
While your there change the pressure sensor as well
I did both. Now what. Still no fix.
@@jonathonlankford i also only use wix oil filter cheaper ones will clog it
Check the oil pump pressure relief valves.
@@jonathonlankford If oil pressure drops AFTER warm up, check your crank bearings.
changing the oil and filter fixes it. Always use a good oil filter also Fram and AC Delco have been the best for me
They have this invention it's called a funnel. It's like 97 cents at Walmart or any dollar store...
I would collect a sample of the oil before-and-after the oil change. 👌
Did you flush the engine again with oil to remove any remaining sludge, varnish, and remaining engine flush chemical in the engine?
You need to change out the O ring on the pickup tube inside the oil pan where it goes up into the oil pump. The O ring has hardened. My 07 truck just did the same thing and it made my valves start ticking something serious. 😬.
Chad Cole, the o-ring is definitely an issue on those motors, and a poor design. The biggest issue on them though, and two of the main reasons for oil consumption in these motors, is the poorly designed valve cover on the drivers side, and the AFM valve in the crank case. There’s an NHTSA bulletin on this issue, and if it would have been considered a safety issue, would have been recalled. Instead it’s only a mechanical issue, thus the consumer flips the bill for bad engineering. The NHTSA recommends replacing the valve cover with the updated one, and installing a shield on the AFM valve which diverts the oil back into the oil pan. Some people had their computers reprogrammed to bypass the AFM system all together, and this also fixed the issue. static.nhtsa.gov/odi/tsbs/2012/SB-10062524-7690.pdf
After changing the o ring did the valve ticking sound go away ???
@@adilshaikh5579 - I ended up having to put in a brand new engine 3 1/2 years ago ($7k🙄) and exactly one week AFTER my new 3 year / 100,000 mile warranty ran out I had a hydraulic lifter go out on me on the drivers side and had to get it fixed. Another $$1,700. 😏🙄 So far so good after 6 months of replacing both lifters on the drivers side. How to fix the whole problem is you have to do a delete to turn off the system that makes it run on 4 cylinders at times. That is what causes them to wear out so fast and go out on you. Hope that helps.
@@ColeAviation There's a OB 2 reader from summit to deactivate the afm after you've performed those fixes or get the delete kit
Oil pressure drops... let me rev up engine while it’s starving from lubrication lmfao
badtbss ls2 jaja you made laugh hard
That's because you were running your mouth and not listening to the actual motor.. it's not starving
Why used the Lucas Oil high mileage treatment to restore your motor at least the bottle says now I have the same problem with no oil pressure and I can't get it to come back up as well as my rear main seal is leaking the Lucas Oil Treatment Masque my truck up bad and I emailed them about it cuz they have a product guarantee and they won't even message me back
In my case I used one quart of ATF . It clean and solved my issue. After reading all the comments most are true, moisture on the cap NOT GOOD!!!
Is the oil pump i had a ticking noise and when i changed the oil pump no more noise from the lifters
My 08 Silverado is starting to have a similar issue. It normally runs around 35-40 but the last month or so, first thing in the morning it starts at 10-20 and then as the engine warms it moves back to the 35-40 and then pretty much stays there. Thinking maybe the o-ring is beginning to fail as others have mentioned. Thoughts?
You're running to thick of oil probably. It congealed up in the morning, and then start to become more free flowing. Check and see what the cap says to put in it. Probably 5w 30. These new ones are more fuel efficient and takes way less thickness.
It looked like there may have been some antifreeze stuck to the oil fill cap so this may also have a head gasket issue
If it's yellow it's probably from City driving. Not letting the motor burn off the moisture it's accumulated.running it on the highway or few times and it will solve that problem. It happened to my truck an I thought the same thing
Thats normal.
Normal from short trips & not getting up to temp.
I would be concerned the way the oil filler cap looked underneath... water moisture?
Normal
That is too much moisture in the oil cap. You may have a coolant leak into the engine oil. Important to get that fixed quickly.
Dodge Dakotas (2000 4.7L) liter do that exact same thing in the winter time. Too much air flow(keeping it cool) over the pour spout and it never gets hot enough to dry it out. A known problem with the 4.7L around that time. 200,000 miles now and no problems with it at all.
No that moisture is normal when its ran for short periods and the moisture cant evap out of the oil yet.
Yeah I don't get close to that much moisture residue on my cap I change oil early all the yime and use wix filters almost everytime I got a 2001 5.3 silverado 125000 on it
@repaired was your motor knocking?
The motor flush didn’t raise your oil pressure. The oil change did that.
The motor could have been sludged up engine flush would have cleared the small oil passages and if you put engine flush in you have to change the oil
A Digital Paradox, the o-ring is definitely an issue on those motors, and a poor design. The biggest issue on them though, and two of the main reasons for oil consumption in these motors, is the poorly designed valve cover on the drivers side, and the AFM valve in the crank case. There’s an NHTSA bulletin on this issue, and if it would have been considered a safety issue, would have been recalled. Instead it’s only a mechanical issue, thus the consumer flips the bill for bad engineering. The NHTSA recommends replacing the valve cover with the updated one, and installing a shield on the AFM valve which diverts the oil back into the oil pan. Some people had their computers reprogrammed to bypass the AFM system all together, and this also fixed the issue. static.nhtsa.gov/odi/tsbs/2012/SB-10062524-7690.pdf
@@digitalparadox7138 4 hours of work and fixed with stable oil pressure... well tell us what you changed or did in those 4 hours to fix the problem?
@@digitalparadox7138 good to know i have the dame issue in chevy uplander 07 but now is making a weird noise like humming
Did u pour the liquid when the engine was on a cold temperature or normal temperature
Cold
My 2009 Chevrolet Silverado with a 5.3 lost oil pressure as I was going down the highway to an important interview! I panicked and added more oil. After watching this video I decided to stop and buy some engine flush. I poured in let it run for probably 10 minutes. I drain the oil and got probably seven quarts out as I had added two quarts in my panic. I will say after changing the oil and the filter the pressure did come back up so I can't say for certain if it was the engine flush or if it was just changing the oil in the filter. The cheapest thing to do would be change the oil on the filter first and then see.
Any more issues after the change? I just bought a 08 suburban 5.3 today from a dealership and not even 6 hrs later I had the same prompt pop up on my dash. Pressure would start at rt at 40 then then drop to 20 then 0 and dash would display that message. Any help would be grateful before I am stuck with a lemon
@Chris Froman it was replaced along with the screen under it. So idk what's going on with it.
I had the same thing happen to my 2011 5.3 Silverado I change the oil sensor switch and filter and it fixed it $100
Good video brother 👍 I appreciation. Thanks. Buen video hermano lo agradezco gracias. My inglihs is little.
tried it yesterday didnt work for me but was worth a try
Might want to put some gas in the fuel tank. Almost empty.
Thanks for the video!
I have a 06 Chevy Silverado what if it a little under 40 is it normal the pressure go high ween drive but stopping go little under 40
junior perryman it’s completely normal.
Forget the oil pressure gauge, if be worrying about the fuel gauge lol
Well after my guy changed out the o ring and put in a new high volume oil pump with a new larger pick up tube my top end is still ticking something serious. So now I got to have a new engine because the cam bearings are wore out. 😔 Gonna be right at $7k for a new engine. 🙄😭
The biggest issue on these motors, and two of the main reasons for oil consumption and sludge build up in these motors, is the poorly designed valve cover on the drivers side, and the AFM valve in the crank case. There’s an NHTSA bulletin on this issue, and if it would have been considered a safety issue, would have been recalled. Instead it’s only a mechanical issue, thus the consumer flips the bill for bad engineering. The NHTSA recommends replacing the valve cover with the updated one, and installing a shield on the AFM valve which diverts the oil back into the oil pan. Some people had their computers reprogrammed to bypass the AFM system all together, and this also fixed the issue. static.nhtsa.gov/odi/tsbs/2012/SB-10062524-7690.pdf
Rob Will - I greatly appreciate the info!! Six weeks after I bought my truck the low oil light came on and I took it back to the dealer and after doing that about 5 times they FINALLY ended up changing the head on the driver side and the oil stayed up normal for and about 10k miles then it started using oil again. Then my warranty ran out as always. 😡 SO. Here I am having to put a brand new motor in it. 😏🙄😠
My 2008 yukon just started displaying lower oil pressure than what im used to seeing.
Its around the first mark when cold and before it was at 40 when cold.
Motor has 127,000 and do regular oil changes around 3k.
Gona give this a try..
So hows your oil pressure now that some time has passed?
Yeah. O5 here. Same issue
Bro... You have coolant in your oil....
White stuff in oil fill cap head gasket that's why no oil pressure antifreeze killing your oil viscosity
I didn't change my oil, but I did change my sensor. I'm still having that P0521 code so next I will change the oil.
Mine ended up being bad oil pump
do not use motor flush on these engines
Can you explain why? I have an 05 Chevy Chevy 2500 6.0. The dealer convinced me into doing this yesterday and now I am worried
@@samandkay26 It is possible to loosen debris and damage the engine. I found out first hand shortly after flushing my 07 5.3 one of the lifters went out. You may have no problems
That won't help. It's most likely too late thick oil used. Clean oil pick up screen! Your welcome.
Its your tire pressure its low also
Phil Muheiny q
@@jonathanmartinez8582 q
My 09 silverado did that too.. fix the actual problem. Its more than likely the sensor. Thats what mine was.
Hood and yours had the knocking noise
👌🏻
If anyone does this and your pressure is that low do the flush twice.
That's a leaking head gasket or cracked...peanut butter looking under oil cap dead give away.moisture my butt
Yeah, it's called head gasket fix in a bottle and HAUL ass yo trade it. That stuff was probably foaming up like soap suds in a couple days. Water pouring out the tail pipe
Change your oil sensor switch you'll get better pressure
not neccesarily
left front tire needs air are you blind?
Are you fucking deaf?? He said he just bought the car! Fucking moron!
I have same Situation
Just Put 1 quart gas 10 min
OIl flush = Kerosene
You need to replace the oil pump oil pressure sensor and head gaskets
@@digitalparadox7138 everybody is seeing the moisture under the cap and are jumping straight to the conclusion that it's a head problem. Not so
Tire pressure light oil pressure light... same thing
Head gasket blown look at the oil cap
Not always the oil fill tube that the cap goes on will collect moisture
nope have an 08 suburban 5.3. Wife makes short trips, antifreeze never drops, sludged up cap. Haven't done Oring yet. Every 2 years thanks to the AFM, This oil pressure issue happens, usually go get a couple of cheap filters, a bottle of engine flush, and whatever full syn is on sale. Spin off the filter, put on a new one add the flush, run it 20 mins and dump the oil and filter. new oil filter and its fine for 2 years or so with regular oil changes. I now buy 12 packs of filters cause the damn things are so tiny and if you dont have time to flush you can spin on another new filter and it takes 2 weeks to plug. Ours has had a slight knock since we bought it, and at almost 300km it hasnt changed. Fun fact when the oil pressure sensor shorted, and they do. The motor goes into safe mode and disables the AFM. The knock was gone till I put the new sensor and screen in. So I guess that's where the knock comes from on mine. You can reprogram or there was a company that made a OBD plug that over rode it and no lights. Would love a part # for a long filter instead of a half pop can
@@nrgate it sounds like you and I are rowing the same boat. I've been using Sea Foam to flush it. What do you recommend?
Thanks for your time
I have been using motor medic last couple of times. I have used seafoam with the same results. Last time it was good and hot as I had just got home from parts store. pulled oil filter installed new one and poured in flush. let it idle for 20 mins and it literally looked like sloppy chunk diarrhea. It is what it is. new filter and oil and good to go. It is just so damn annoying ding ding ding through speakers. Wife always calls me, and I say turn it off , fire back up and that will clear the pick up. keep driving sweetie, its 's an aluminum block. if it truly has no pressure the damage is already done .So double edge sword but it never starts hammering and if it dies it dies
@@nrgate thanks for the quick response. Yup it's aggravating!
Switch to a good oil like A M S OIL and forget your sludgy engine problems and quit taking to an oil change garage that sells shit oil . Amsoil.com