Fantastic video Thank you for taking the time to do this and for sharing. Doing my first ever valve shim adjustment on my Daytona 675R with 40,000Km and replacing my cam chain and tensioner guide blades (one of them is broken). This is the perfect way to visualize the instructions on the service manual and you just made it an infinitely less daunting task. Cheers to you buddy! Thanks again
I’m glad you know how to do this stuff. My bike is in the shop. After watching your video I think I made the right choice having a “real” technician do the work instead of me
@@AUTOT3KHCL Thanks for the heads up, I’ve been considering the Tracer for a while now. But I’m mostly riding a water cooled GS now and you can’t beat having the jugs hanging out the side.
Thanks again for this Am finishing up my valve adjust and have replaced my cam chain and tensioner guides. Everything went smoothly until this step when I refitted the cam plate. (20m on video) Started tightening the bolts as stated by the manual and the camshafts did not sit well on the left hand side of the engine. That’s because, like you mentioned, the lobes on cylinder 1 are pointing in but slightly down, so they need to compress the valve buckets ever so slightly in order for the plate and camshafts to sit correctly. Of course, inexperienced as I am, I ended up damaging the intake camshaft and had to get a new one. It is very important to start tightening the bolts above cylinder 1 first to get the valve banks on that side to give a little more room for the cams to snug down in their slots. THEN and only then can you start following the tightening sequence described in the manual. Hope my bad experience saves someone from making the same mistake. AutoT please correct me if I am mistaken. In any case this has worked for me!
@@AUTOT3KHCL yes I did. I used all the Triumph tools and followed manual to the letter. It was entirely my fault since I failed to notice the cams were not installed properly and kept on tightening. I’m happy I didn’t break the cam plate 😓
@@AUTOT3KHCL is it important to still follow the inside out torquing pattern when assembling even though the cam sits high at cylinder 1 because of the lobes against the buckets?
Thank you for helping me find the level of my incompetence. Oil change? No problem. Brake bleed? Easy peezy. Spark plug and air filter change? Sure...pain in the ass, but not terrible. Pulling my cams out? Absolutely NOT for me. Definitely helps me appreciate the skills of actual technicians.
Don't sell yourself short. A lot of people are intimidated to even attempt the spark plugs. You've already done the hard work. Little patience and you could finish the rest
Great video. Glad I watched it before attempting this on my own; I shall be taking my bike to a real mechanic for this procedure. I’ve got 35k miles on my 2011 street triple and never had the valves inspected.
Just thinking loudly - since valves are getting tighter over time wouldn't it be better to install shims to, after procedure, be at the end of loose spec? 🤔
Great! On your exhaust lash was .30 (no 3) but your two shims are slightly different size ? 2.40 and 2.45. Why is that ? Thanks. Mine measure same as yours, .30.
Hi, I follow your instructions. Very informative. However, my engine came on and stay one. Will it go away after driving a few miles. Or do I need to take to the dealership to clear the engine light? I have a 2011 tiger 800. Thanks
New found respect for you tech’s. Will not ever complain about hourly rates, when I have the dealership perform this open heart surgery on my Tiger 800. 👍🏼 😎 🇺🇸 🌎. P.S. unless they bugger it up. 🤬
Everything I needed to know and more. Thank you so much for all the work you put into this, I really appreciate it. I hope you have the heated seat and grips up there in Calgary, I checked out your locale.....looks like some fabulous scenic roads. Thanks again.
Thank you for your videos, they are very informative. I am having a hard time getting a feel for the clearance on the exhaust side. I am able to insert a 0.330mm and 0.356mm blade on all exhaust valves, but it feels the same. #1 exhaust cylinder is the only one I feel confident on my measurement, because is so easy to reach. I have used both flat and tapper blades purchased at the local auto part store. I am now thinking of getting feel gauge blades with narrow point like the ones you use Any suggestions?
Great video. I hope you see this, I did this and got to the step of adjusting the timing. Got the tensioner tool in and set to .6nm, got the first two bolts replaced, then removed both locking and when I tried to turn the engine over to do the second set of bolts it would not turn over after a certain point. Could this be a piston making contact with the valve? Or what else could be causing this?
Camshafts are in the correct location and timed correctly? It's easy to put the intake cam in the wrong location etc. If the cams are 180 out the tool would still slide in
Yeah the intake and exhaust are correct, I followed the timing procedure to a T so I’m not sure what went wrong. Might be time to take it to a professional
Can't find the Cam Holding Tool in the list of shop tools. Any idea what the part # is? Great video. MUch appreciated. Dealer wants to charge me $1000 to do this!
I have. Just take out that center bolt above the timing cover and undo the Allen head bolt that holds the timing chain guide in place. Chain and guides slide right out the top
Great video!! I do have a question. I have my bike apart but on the crank shaft the line and dot for top dead center don’t match up with the hole for the alignment tool. Should I carry on with the shims and adjust timing when finishing up? Or take it to a professional?
Those lines are close, but when I stick the Triumph pin in the hole it in place with the line and dot at the bottom it doesn’t seem to go in all the way.
They're not from online. The black and silver one is Mastercraft from Canadian Tire. The black and yellow one is Dewalt from Canadian Tire. The digital torque wrench is Snap On, from my shops dealer
Anyone know the bolt lengths for the crank case cover mentioned at 01:10? Took mine off and had 7 bolts the same length and 1 that was shorter, typical work of my local dealer lol.
The CCT wouldn't have any oil pressure to it so the tension wouldn't be the same. The spring inside the CCT might get it close but not worth the risk. You could however use a manual tensioner and set that to the proper torque
@@AUTOT3KHCL Thanks for the reply. That makes sense now given its a hydraulic tensioner - I didn't think of that. I regret not setting the timing when I did my valve adjustment on the Street Triple at 20,000km. It'll be my winter project and I'll be using your video to guide me. Thanks.
It looks like you did not remove the throttle body assembly. Did you just loosen the throttle body assembly up to move it a little (without having to unhook all the connections) to slip the cam cover off? Or were you able to slip the cam cover off with the throttle body assembly in place? Thanks in advance.
T3880607 - ordered this part which is pictured on the online site with a combined Allen key/socket. I'd be interested to know whether, when you guys ordered this part number, you received just the tensioner (as I did) or the two parts pictured in the tools list? When querying, I received the following reply from the supplier...."Tensioner part is supplied correctly. The EPC image differs across numerous models, showing an allen key. This is not included and the image on EPC is incorrect, this is purely an illustration and does not reflect supplying part". It is not going to stop me from undertaking the work.....the point is, is this misleading (that is, implying that you will get two parts when you only get one)?
What's the purpose of replacing those 4 cam sprocket bolts at 22:45? If it's to slightly readjust that sprocket, wouldn't it make sense to loosen both bolts (per sprocket) before replacing one? Thanks!
this is awesome! do you have link for your shim kit you sourced and I know you list the part numbers but do you have links to the products or did you just amazon them?
The shim kit is off Amazon, it's just a Hot Cams Shim Kit 7.48mm For the triumph specialty tools you could order off the website "World Of Triumph" but I just ordered from a dealership and had them mail it to me. The service manual was on a site called TriTun but I think they recently changed their name but should still show up if you Google that name.
I Want to check my 2020 Triumph Tiger 900 Valve clearance shims 20,000 Klms now. Where can I purchase the Crank pin tool and the Cam Shaft alignment tool?
Hello, why use that aligner if the camshaft cover already has its own aligner guide , minute 13:00. On the paper you put the cylinder numbers wrong, cylinder 1 is the one on the left mounted on the motorcycle, greetings good video,sorry google translate
The spring tension would spin the cams on you and you wouldn't be able to torque the gears on. Write whichever cylinder you want as number 1. Just don't forget and it'll go back together properly. Technically yes You're right
@@AUTOT3KHCL aahh, now I understand, I've been looking at the workshop manual and that tool (T3880640) is only for keeping the shafts still while you tighten the gears
I don't trust them either, which is why I learned the job on this bike. You should definitely do some riding in my area though, western Canada offers a lot of excellent scenery
Great set of videos. Thank you for producing. I have a question regarding the tensioner tool (the one that must be tightened to 0.6Nm). I understand that you remove the standard tensioner and at the appropriate stage, insert the special tensioner tool and adjust to 0.6Nm. I do not understand what this tool does; that is; it pushes the tension arm against the chain at the correct torque setting but then you remove it and fit the standard tensioner. Can you please explain what the special tool does or allows you to that is different from the standard tensioner and perhaps paint a word picture of how it all works? I would be very grateful.
It sets the chain tension to a similar level as the bike running, for timing the camshafts. Your factory oil loaded tensioner won't provide the same amount of pressure without the bike running. If you have a manual tensioner, you could just use that
Is it really possible to measure to 25 micrometres (25 x 10-6 metres) using feeler gauges? Or have I got something wrong. Let's say difference between two shim sizes are 2.400mm and 2.375mm. Difference = 0.025mm. I know it has been done throughout history but wouldn't the thickness of any oil, slightly warped feeler gauge, cam not set at precisely slack alice not account for such a small measurement?
Fantastic to have Ryan Reynolds provide such an informative and comprehensive motorcycle mechanical video - thanks mate!
You make it look so easy. I actually thinking to do it myself now lol I'm a woman. Love your videos, explanations are really good.
Fantastic video
Thank you for taking the time to do this and for sharing.
Doing my first ever valve shim adjustment on my Daytona 675R with 40,000Km and replacing my cam chain and tensioner guide blades (one of them is broken).
This is the perfect way to visualize the instructions on the service manual and you just made it an infinitely less daunting task.
Cheers to you buddy!
Thanks again
I’m glad you know how to do this stuff. My bike is in the shop. After watching your video I think I made the right choice having a “real” technician do the work instead of me
Very well done. This job alone is why my Tiger 800 is the first and last Triumph I will own.
Believe it or not. This was WAAAY easier than when I did the FJ09 I owned or my friends 790 Duke
@@AUTOT3KHCL Thanks for the heads up, I’ve been considering the Tracer for a while now. But I’m mostly riding a water cooled GS now and you can’t beat having the jugs hanging out the side.
Thanks again for this
Am finishing up my valve adjust and have replaced my cam chain and tensioner guides.
Everything went smoothly until this step when I refitted the cam plate. (20m on video)
Started tightening the bolts as stated by the manual and the camshafts did not sit well on the left hand side of the engine. That’s because, like you mentioned, the lobes on cylinder 1 are pointing in but slightly down, so they need to compress the valve buckets ever so slightly in order for the plate and camshafts to sit correctly.
Of course, inexperienced as I am, I ended up damaging the intake camshaft and had to get a new one.
It is very important to start tightening the bolts above cylinder 1 first to get the valve banks on that side to give a little more room for the cams to snug down in their slots. THEN and only then can you start following the tightening sequence described in the manual.
Hope my bad experience saves someone from making the same mistake.
AutoT please correct me if I am mistaken. In any case this has worked for me!
Did you have the cam holding tool on the camshafts or were you just using the chain to keep them in place?
@@AUTOT3KHCL yes I did. I used all the Triumph tools and followed manual to the letter.
It was entirely my fault since I failed to notice the cams were not installed properly and kept on tightening.
I’m happy I didn’t break the cam plate 😓
@@AUTOT3KHCL is it important to still follow the inside out torquing pattern when assembling even though the cam sits high at cylinder 1 because of the lobes against the buckets?
Doing my 12k Mile service on the Tiger 900 Rally Pro... even with the Service Manual, this helped A LOT. Thanks.
So most things on the 900 are quite similar?
Thank you for helping me find the level of my incompetence.
Oil change? No problem. Brake bleed? Easy peezy. Spark plug and air filter change? Sure...pain in the ass, but not terrible. Pulling my cams out? Absolutely NOT for me. Definitely helps me appreciate the skills of actual technicians.
Don't sell yourself short. A lot of people are intimidated to even attempt the spark plugs. You've already done the hard work. Little patience and you could finish the rest
Great video. Glad I watched it before attempting this on my own; I shall be taking my bike to a real mechanic for this procedure. I’ve got 35k miles on my 2011 street triple and never had the valves inspected.
Just thinking loudly - since valves are getting tighter over time wouldn't it be better to install shims to, after procedure, be at the end of loose spec? 🤔
Thanks so much for this, man. I managed to do valves on my Street Triple thanks to you!
Great! On your exhaust lash was .30 (no 3) but your two shims are slightly different size ? 2.40 and 2.45. Why is that ? Thanks. Mine measure same as yours, .30.
Hi, I follow your instructions. Very informative. However, my engine came on and stay one. Will it go away after driving a few miles. Or do I need to take to the dealership to clear the engine light? I have a 2011 tiger 800. Thanks
New found respect for you tech’s. Will not ever complain about hourly rates, when I have the dealership perform this open heart surgery on my Tiger 800. 👍🏼 😎 🇺🇸 🌎. P.S. unless they bugger it up. 🤬
why did you remove and replace the cam sprocket bolts?
Everything I needed to know and more. Thank you so much for all the work you put into this, I really appreciate it. I hope you have the heated seat and grips up there in Calgary, I checked out your locale.....looks like some fabulous scenic roads. Thanks again.
Thank you for your videos, they are very informative.
I am having a hard time getting a feel for the clearance on the exhaust side.
I am able to insert a 0.330mm and 0.356mm blade on all exhaust valves, but it feels the same.
#1 exhaust cylinder is the only one I feel confident on my measurement, because is so easy to reach.
I have used both flat and tapper blades purchased at the local auto part store.
I am now thinking of getting feel gauge blades with narrow point like the ones you use
Any suggestions?
E normal fácil barulho no tensor ? T 800 /2015
Great video. I hope you see this, I did this and got to the step of adjusting the timing. Got the tensioner tool in and set to .6nm, got the first two bolts replaced, then removed both locking and when I tried to turn the engine over to do the second set of bolts it would not turn over after a certain point. Could this be a piston making contact with the valve? Or what else could be causing this?
Still have the pin locking the crank? You'll get some movement out of the crank and then it'll just stop
@@AUTOT3KHCL no i removed the locking pin and the timing tool as well
It turned fine before but the camshafts were slightly out of timing before the adjustment, I’m wondering if this could have something to do with it
Camshafts are in the correct location and timed correctly? It's easy to put the intake cam in the wrong location etc. If the cams are 180 out the tool would still slide in
Yeah the intake and exhaust are correct, I followed the timing procedure to a T so I’m not sure what went wrong. Might be time to take it to a professional
What’s is the make and model of the feeler gauges you are using. I can’t find a narrow angled feeler gauge like yours.
Can't find the Cam Holding Tool in the list of shop tools. Any idea what the part # is? Great video. MUch appreciated. Dealer wants to charge me $1000 to do this!
Great video , seems from reading the service manual the process is the same for the Tiger 900, and I'm planning ahead, just passed 10,000 Kms
How did you get on with your tiger 900? I am about to carry this out for mine and was wondering if anything was different?
Rewatching this after tighting the cam tensioner to 6nm instead of 0.6nm. Time for a new timing chain
Quick question...
Is the 1200 explorer same as the 800?
Fairly similar. The tools work on it.
Look up the spec for the clearance though
The video was useful buddy, by any chance have you changed the timing chain along with timing chain tensioner pad ?
I have. Just take out that center bolt above the timing cover and undo the Allen head bolt that holds the timing chain guide in place. Chain and guides slide right out the top
Great video!! I do have a question. I have my bike apart but on the crank shaft the line and dot for top dead center don’t match up with the hole for the alignment tool. Should I carry on with the shims and adjust timing when finishing up? Or take it to a professional?
The lines on the camshafts don't line up when the dot on the crank is at TDC?
The cams just need to be retimed using the cam holding tool
Those lines are close, but when I stick the Triumph pin in the hole it in place with the line and dot at the bottom it doesn’t seem to go in all the way.
Pin the crank. Get the tool to go in. Then time the cams to the crank. You have to loosen the cam gear bolts
Great video!!
Could you post the link to the torque wrench? I have not been able to find it. Thank you!
They're not from online. The black and silver one is Mastercraft from Canadian Tire. The black and yellow one is Dewalt from Canadian Tire. The digital torque wrench is Snap On, from my shops dealer
Anyone know the bolt lengths for the crank case cover mentioned at 01:10? Took mine off and had 7 bolts the same length and 1 that was shorter, typical work of my local dealer lol.
What diameter valve shims does the Tiger 800 take? 7.48mm?
7.48mm
Whats the size of those o rings?
Thanks for this video. I'm wondering what the purpose of the CCT tool is. Could you not put in the actual CCT to create mention against the guide?
The CCT wouldn't have any oil pressure to it so the tension wouldn't be the same. The spring inside the CCT might get it close but not worth the risk.
You could however use a manual tensioner and set that to the proper torque
@@AUTOT3KHCL Thanks for the reply. That makes sense now given its a hydraulic tensioner - I didn't think of that. I regret not setting the timing when I did my valve adjustment on the Street Triple at 20,000km. It'll be my winter project and I'll be using your video to guide me. Thanks.
How often does this need done?
20k km or 12k mi
It looks like you did not remove the throttle body assembly. Did you just loosen the throttle body assembly up to move it a little (without having to unhook all the connections) to slip the cam cover off? Or were you able to slip the cam cover off with the throttle body assembly in place? Thanks in advance.
ua-cam.com/video/5TkWuUtMB4Y/v-deo.html
It's covered in this video. Tools needed and what not
T3880607 - ordered this part which is pictured on the online site with a combined Allen key/socket. I'd be interested to know whether, when you guys ordered this part number, you received just the tensioner (as I did) or the two parts pictured in the tools list? When querying, I received the following reply from the supplier...."Tensioner part is supplied correctly. The EPC image differs across numerous models, showing an allen key. This is not included and the image on EPC is incorrect, this is purely an illustration and does not reflect supplying part". It is not going to stop me from undertaking the work.....the point is, is this misleading (that is, implying that you will get two parts when you only get one)?
What's the purpose of replacing those 4 cam sprocket bolts at 22:45? If it's to slightly readjust that sprocket, wouldn't it make sense to loosen both bolts (per sprocket) before replacing one? Thanks!
They're technically one time use due to the thread lock
this is awesome! do you have link for your shim kit you sourced and I know you list the part numbers but do you have links to the products or did you just amazon them?
The shim kit is off Amazon, it's just a Hot Cams Shim Kit 7.48mm
For the triumph specialty tools you could order off the website "World Of Triumph" but I just ordered from a dealership and had them mail it to me.
The service manual was on a site called TriTun but I think they recently changed their name but should still show up if you Google that name.
Do you have any videos of starter replacement?
Unfortunately I don't. Muddy Sump may have one on his channel
@@AUTOT3KHCL I believe I looked but I may have missed it! Not biggie. I have a shop book but a video is much more helpful!
TOP TIP Just buy a 7mm bar and cut to size to fit into the cam slots or use a 7mm drill bit..it saves you money and does exactly the same job
Is this in replace of the cam timing pin tool?
@TheJarvMeister Sure it does the same job
Do you use loctite on the replacement bolts?
No. They come with thread lock on them
I Want to check my 2020 Triumph Tiger 900 Valve clearance shims 20,000 Klms now. Where can I purchase the Crank pin tool and the Cam Shaft alignment tool?
The dealership
@@AUTOT3KHCL Thank you.
Hi Matt, this question may be helpful to others that come by this way - was there any changes to this method on the tiger 900?
told by dealer they had to remove the radiator to change shims is this right
No. I've done it 4 times on my bike and 1 on this guy's bike. Radiator stays in
Our bikes take a HOAT coolant... where did you get this 36 month thing from?
Is it 6 nm or POINT 6 nm??? Please let me know. Simple and straightforward video man u rock btw lol
0.6NM
Aka not much at all
dope video thanks
Hello, why use that aligner if the camshaft cover already has its own aligner guide , minute 13:00. On the paper you put the cylinder numbers wrong, cylinder 1 is the one on the left mounted on the motorcycle, greetings good video,sorry google translate
The spring tension would spin the cams on you and you wouldn't be able to torque the gears on.
Write whichever cylinder you want as number 1. Just don't forget and it'll go back together properly. Technically yes You're right
@@AUTOT3KHCL aahh, now I understand, I've been looking at the workshop manual and that tool (T3880640) is only for keeping the shafts still while you tighten the gears
although I don't see much point in making that adjustment of the gears either, they shouldn't have moved
Chain stretches over time
I wish you were in my country to trust you the maintenance of my Tiger 800. I don't trust my local Triumph dealer.
I don't trust them either, which is why I learned the job on this bike.
You should definitely do some riding in my area though, western Canada offers a lot of excellent scenery
Great set of videos. Thank you for producing. I have a question regarding the tensioner tool (the one that must be tightened to 0.6Nm). I understand that you remove the standard tensioner and at the appropriate stage, insert the special tensioner tool and adjust to 0.6Nm. I do not understand what this tool does; that is; it pushes the tension arm against the chain at the correct torque setting but then you remove it and fit the standard tensioner. Can you please explain what the special tool does or allows you to that is different from the standard tensioner and perhaps paint a word picture of how it all works? I would be very grateful.
It sets the chain tension to a similar level as the bike running, for timing the camshafts. Your factory oil loaded tensioner won't provide the same amount of pressure without the bike running.
If you have a manual tensioner, you could just use that
@@AUTOT3KHCL Thanks - that's great.. So it replicates the function of the standard tensioner purely for the purpose of setting the camshaft timing.
Sorry to bother again.........where did you get your shim set from? Is it specific to Triumph and the Tiger 800?
Is it really possible to measure to 25 micrometres (25 x 10-6 metres) using feeler gauges? Or have I got something wrong. Let's say difference between two shim sizes are 2.400mm and 2.375mm. Difference = 0.025mm. I know it has been done throughout history but wouldn't the thickness of any oil, slightly warped feeler gauge, cam not set at precisely slack alice not account for such a small measurement?
The shim kit is a Hot Cam Shim Kit. It's not tiger specific. It's a 7.48mm kit. Got it off Amazon cause that was the best price
‼️”minus it” I didn’t realize they speak Section 8 in Canada 🙂
Yep, that may be above my pay grade. More like above my patience level lol.
Luckily you know a guy with some FJ experience and can help with that haha
@@AUTOT3KHCL yep, very lucky indeed bro.
Him.. Just holding a random "chain guide" and me with no idea where this part even came from....
Can I pay you to adjust my cam 😂 2009 Daytona 675