Suzuki V Strom DL650 - Valve Clearance Adjustment
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- Опубліковано 15 жов 2024
- Link to Cam Chain Tensioner (Mad8V) UA-cam video I reference: • sv650 cam chain tensio...
Link to Valve Adjustment web post I reference: circlenz.co.nz...
Link to previous Valve Clearance Check (my channel, UA-cam): • 2018 Suzuki DL650 V St...
I'm not a mechanic. Use a manual and your own judgment.
Only pull one cam shaft holder off at a time. Don't rotate the engine without both camshaft holders per cylinder in place.
Intake spec = 0.004"-0.012"
Exhaust spec = 0.008"-0.012"
Bike is a 2018 Suzuki DL650 V Strom 650XT.
Hello, I did it 2 years ago on my 2010 V-Strom 650. I used the same method for the rear chain tensioner. I confirm, it is realy not easy to put it back (and my tool was not flexible like yours). Like you I check every thing 3 times :-). I was also a bit worried when starting the engine 🙂
Greeting from France
Greetings from the States, William. Yep--any time I have a valve cover off, I'm always hesitant and anxious about pressing the Go-Button for the first time! It's definitely not easy to get the rear CCT back in and installed, but it's good to know it is at least possible without removing the rear wheel. I simply can't comprehend how to do it with the earlier suzuki 650 twin CCT (1st generation SV650) without removing the rear wheel. I know people have claimed to have done it, but I can't picture how. Cheers.
Hi Matt, UPDATE. I watched the video on the link you put into your video over and over.
I kept thinking that it shouldn’t be that hard
FINALLY SUCCESS.
Thanks for that link it helped a lot.
The rear chain is now loose
Regards
Murray
Glad to hear you got it. I had to mess around with it for a while until I understood how the releasing mechanism worked as well. Once I finally hit it with the screwdriver I was like "ooooooohhhh... shit, that was easy". Mad8v's video really helps for a visual on what's actually happening.
@@matttriestodothings Hi Matt, I have finished my shim exchange and the bike is ready to ride running beautifully.
All my clearances were right on the lower limit except for one intake valve which was spot on.
The Suzuki dealer said I could leave them as they are because technically they are still in specification.
I thought buggar that, I have got this far I will change shims. That’s what I did and now all the clearances are in the middle of the specified range.
Thanks Matt, your video was invaluable, I couldn’t have done it without your help.
@@murraycharters6102 Murray, that's awesome to hear! Your thoughts on "I've got this far" was my same thought on why I wanted to go to the middle of tolerance--I doubt it'll need it again in the bike's lifetime. Congrats on getting the dreaded valve adjustment done!
@0:35 Matt, to most people the motorcycle already looks halfway disassembled. I like the sound of V-twins but watching other people work on them really dissuades me from ever wanting to own one. Sharpie makes oil based paint markers if you want something to stick around, I use them to write bolt sizes and torque values on vehicles when I work on them. Really digging the basement shop my man.
There's just a mountain of plastic on this V Strom that makes it a longer project. I'm thinking that'll be the case for most "Adventure" bikes these days. The thing is freakin' massive to me and yet I know it's dwarfed by some of it's competitors and bigger siblings. Crazy.
Thank you for the Sharpie suggestion--added to my Amazon cart. I wish I could re-do this video and not zip-tie the front intake camshaft... I tried to edit most of it out, but it hurts continuity. Oh well. Biggest thing I imagine people would be interested in is whether you need to remove the rear wheel anyway. It turns out, you don't!
The Suzuki 650 twin motor is actually pretty easy to work on. It's so much simpler to get to everything on an SV650 compared to this DL650 though. I quite enjoy the twin in the SV. It's pretty boring on the V Strom though--nothing to get excited about. Just a reliable mule of a bike.
Good work. Did the same two weeks ago at my SV650. Dealer wanted to calculate 600€ for this maintenance.
Good on you for doing it yourself. I could see how they could justify that price--it's just a lot of time dicking around to actually get to the valves. With the DL just removing and reinstalling the fairings is a pretty time consuming chore, and there's always the risk of breaking a mounting tab on accident.
Matt, great video mate, thank you
My 2017 650 Strom has done 51,000 km and runs beautifully
I am going to do the valve clearance and change of shims if necessary myself for the first time.
Can you clarify something for me.
Is it necessary to remove the cam tensioner bolt right out or only most of the way?
Doesn’t seem like a problem at the front cylinder, but a pain to completely remove the rear cam tensioner.
I am hoping I can screw the rear one most of the way out and still get the cams out.
Your video left me unsure.
Thanks in anticipation
Regards from Brisbane Australia
Hey Murray--I'm pretty sure you'll need to pull the bolt all the way out because the tensioner plunger will not depress unless you are able to unwind the tension on it. If you watch Mad8V's video about the tensioners, it should do a better job than my video did explaining why. Check this video around 1:10 here: ua-cam.com/video/w_A6wQ7p-PM/v-deo.html
It's definitely a bit of a pain to remove the rear cam chain tensioner. If you've got your bike on sturdy ground (especially if you have rear spools and a rear stand), it's honestly probably easier to just remove the rear wheel instead of trying to get creative with socket extensions/bendy screwdrivers like I did in this video.
The good news is you may not have to mess with any of it. There's a good chance your valves are all still in spec--a lot of examples of people at that mileage that don't need any adjustment.
Great job and very cool video. To be honest the thought of tackling this on my Vstrom stresses me right the fuck out lol. But I'm a little ways away yet from my first check on my 2019 DL. Hopefully when it's time I'll be more confident.
Cheers!
Honestly, same. I worked myself up for about 2 weeks just pacing around my sv650 (essentially same engine) before I did it the first time.
It's like anything with motorcycle maintenance though. It's always scary the first time and it takes 5-10x longer the first time. Then you make it thru and realize it ain't nothin' but a thang 😅
I was at the dealers today to get oil and filter for my L1 2011 DL650. $62.00.. While there I asked the cost for a valve adjustment for my 2011 DL 650.He got the factory price and time for the job. 3 1/2 hrs. $325.00. I am used to working on push rods and screw adjusters, so I will probably get the dealer to do the job. I am 80 years old and I dont think the back and knees will hold up to do the job. On the V Strom forums guys say if you do an adjustment , adjust them to maximum gap.
Honestly, if you've got a good shop that will do it for $325.00 and you trust them... it's actually a pretty good deal. There's a ton of time involved removing fairings and other nonsense. If you told me $625 I'd probably tell you to start thinking about doing it yourself, but $325 sounds well within the realm of reasonable.
That is if they're doing the actual valve adjustment. I'd just ask what the clearances are set to on each of the 8 valves when they're done. They should be able to give you that information even if they don't pull a camshaft and replace a single shim.
for you or others, have a valve check done first and liklihood is they are going to do only that unless your bike is beat up , most v's go 80k with no adjustment needed. if it fails the check and needs shims, that is a good price for that job, but a poor price for just checking and doing no adjustment (the 95% likely scenario.
@albion2742. I am 79 and I am in the middle of doing a shim change. My 2017 Strom XT 650 has done 52,000 km. I purchased it new in April 2018.
There is no way anyone could do a shim change for $325
There is a ton of work to do. I didn’t get a price but I estimated a cost of about $A 1,200 to do the job.
I am slow and methodical. Lots of my friends told me “ if it is running well leave it alone”
This is my first valve clearance check. Only one intake valve is in the middle of the range and all 7 of the remaining clearances are right on the bottom end of specified tolerances.
@@murraycharters6102 我的朋友也是告诉我，如果车辆运行良好，杂音不要管它！ 我觉得我必须仔细阅读官方手册，来重新调整气门间隙以及正时系统😬
Great video very helpful, I have a question. Are you sure you don't use the R to do the rear cylinder? I've watched another video and he did, don't know why Suzuki would put a R if you don't use it? Thanks so much for your time and help
That's a great question, and thank you for prompting me to bring a DL650 manual into the toilet with me this morning.
The valve clearance measurements are both taken at the "F" for the front and rear, yes. Picture from manual 1D-40: i.imgur.com/NbeA0fe.jpg
However, for removal of the REAR camshafts, you need to have the markings to line up in a certain way on the camshafts, and that doesn't happen at "R" on the flywheel. It happens at "F". The instructions I'd printed from somebody else doing this procedure on a SV650 made a point of it here: i.imgur.com/Wy8ArN9.jpg
Additionally, the Clymer SV650 manual corroborates it on page 106 "Installation (Rear Cylinder)" #2 here: i.imgur.com/UAIdaG0.jpg
Wow thanks for all the help! So if I'm reading this right, I check and adjust the front cylinder on the "F" then rotate it 270 and check the rear cylinder on "R" but if it needs adjustment I need to bring it on around so it would have been 360 to start with which will align it back up with the "F"?
@@stringtwister7654 Yes. It gets goofy with the rear check being at the 'R' but the adjustment and removal of the camshafts on the rear being on the 'F'.
I found the article I was thinking of. They did an awesome job explaining it--far better than the manuals. Ironically, the Clymer manual does a far better job than the $140 Factory Service Manual I bought.
Link to article: circlenz.co.nz/suzuki-v-strom-dl650-valve-check-and-adjustment/
Great video. I have a '17 DL that's ready for this. Been putting it off. Have 17,000 miles. What reference material were you using? I have the factory manual. Are those individual OEM shims? Where did you get the squiggly tool. Sorry for all the questions.Your hard work helps immensely. Wouldn't trust my local shop to do such a good job.
Thanks Frank.
I bought a Hot Cams 7.48 "refill kit" that included 5 of every shim from 1.50mm - 1.75mm. I gambled on the fact that I wouldn't require anything over 1.75mm based on discussions on forums. It's possible a 1.80mm could be required, but I didn't need one for either my SV650 nor DL650.
Bendy screwdriver is an ARES 51000. Just copy that into Amazon. It's $15.12 as of today. I tried a weaker one before that was no good. This ARES is better.
I use the factory manual. There's also a link in this description to a pretty popular guide for people to reference.
No worries about the questions--I had a lot of the same ones when I first did a valve clearance adjustment.
@@matttriestodothings Appreciate the response, Matt. I'll be ordering all the same stuff. I remember in 1978, I did a valve adjustment on a KZ 1000, but the shims were on top of the bucket- so much easier! No cam pulling. My roommate had a KZ 650, that had a redline approaching 10K. His shims were under the bucket, so the cams had to be removed. I heard any bike with over 10k must have shims under or they have a tendency to spit out.My '71 CB 750 had threaded adjusters- so easy.You not only try to do things, you get them done correctly. CircleNZ was a good ref., but I'll be using yours!
Hi Matt, The front cam chain tensioner released fairly easily by pushing a thin long screwdriver down there somewhere
HOWEVER, I have removed the rear cam chain tensioner and I have been trying for an hour to get the chain to go slack but try as I may I can’t get the bloody thing to release
ANY TIPS ?
How far down is that tab
Thanks
Murray
How many quilometers has your bike? I checked the valve clearance of my 2014, 55k km vstrom 650, and none needed to change shims!
Not many. About 10,000 kilometers. Probably even less when I shot this video. It was winter and I was curious. I won't bother looking for several more years or 30,000+ kilometers now.
Thank you for the video. I finished a valve clearance adjustment yesterday on my 2007 dl 650. I have not fully reassembled the bike and am still a little concern about damaging the engine upon start up. It seems to me that I would be unable to rotate the crankshaft without hearing or feeling interference between piston and valves if I had improperly reinstalled the cams. Am I correct in assuming this? Thank you for your help.
No problem Fred. Realistically what you need to do to be sure that you aren't going to damage the engine is to be sure that you're timing is correct. If you check the fronts at the correct 'F' and the rears at the (270° after) 'F' and the markings on the camshafts align with the images in the manual, you're going to be fine. Even if somehow you had gotten off by a pin somehow, it would still be "okay", it just wouldn't run right. Check those cam alignment markings _after_ resetting the cam chain tensioners in. I should have emphasized this more since it's easier to get an accurate reading of the "flush" marking when there is no tension.
Yes, the reason I like to rotate several times by hand is so I can hear/feel any interference. The interference of concern would be the valve hitting the piston. This would come from getting the timing quite screwed up and (imho) much more likely to happen if you pull both cams out at once. It's more of a sanity check I like to do just to make sure I didn't have some major brain fart. It also allows me to go back and double/triple check the clearances and verify my cam lobes and markings are where I expect them to be based on the pictures I took prior to disassembly and the drawings in the manual.
So yes, your assumption is correct. I think you're going to be fine. I'm just a nervous nelly about anything I touch because... idk why. Probably beer.
So minor problem. I'm changing out the shims on only the rear cylinder exhaust side. With the tensioner not yet released I was removing that rod cover, struggling to gently pop it off, when the chain popped off the exhaust-side sprocket. I didn't think that could happen with the chain still under tension. Anyway, I hadn't yet marked the sprocket position relative to the chain. I should be OK, right??, since the chain never came off the intake-side sprocket? As long as the chain is still in the original position on the other sprocket I can use it as reference and count links, right? I've since zip tied the chain to the remaining sprocket so it can't move and will begin changing out the shims.
I think you should be fine. I'm quite surprised you'd be able to get the chain to jump off without removing the tensioner--I'd make sure it still seems like it's functioning properly (that is, that it still extends and applies tension once you reinsert it).
But yes, you should still be able to use the first cam as a guide considering it didn't move. Ultimately, as long as you get those markings in the same place, you be fine. You could pull both cams if you wanted (but I don't recommend), but doing them one at a time makes it much simpler mentally to put them back into the same spots because you'll always have 16 pins between marks.
@@matttriestodothings Thanks for confirming. I now have such good access to the tensioner from above I'm wondering if I can get the exhaust rod/sprocket/chain back in place without having to crawl under the bike to remove/reinsert the tensioning bolt. Maybe I can get a buddy to hold the tensioner down with a flathead while I button everything back up. Can't see a reason not to try.
Hi Mate, may I kindly ask where did you find the workshop manual for the 2017-2023 model?
Regards from Sicily!
Going back into my purchase history.. it looks like I bought the factory manual for $90USD+fees in 2018 from www.genuinesuzukimanuals.com
Parts Number: 99500-36250-03E
For the most part you can almost always get away with one of the Clymer manuals for a lot cheaper for most maintenance items. I'm also willing to bet you can find a digital download by going to the bike-specific forum stromtrooper.com
Thanks for this thorough video! I put everything back together, timing marks were spot on and I turned the bike on and it ran normally! Is this a good sign? lol
It would be a bad sign if it *didn't* run normally. Sounds like you've got it figured out!
@@matttriestodothings I am on vacation and always double guess myself after putting things back together carefully! lol
@@Max.527 Hah, I know that feeling well! Enjoy your vacation!
Will this video work on my sv650
Yep--same concept. I did my 2001 SV650 before I did this 2018 DL650. I'd still work with a model-specific service manual though.
Depending on the year of your SV, the cam chain adjusters may look and operate slightly differently.
@@matttriestodothings thanks bud. New subscriber right here. 👍
@@smithdavid3420 hah, don't get your hopes to high. Thank you though.
@@matttriestodothings your dead right i bought the manual today it's the same but your video is way better for me because I don't read English well.
@@smithdavid3420 I think videos are useful. I'd just make sure you have the actual instructions as well.
Hi, my vstrom 650DL year 2012 is passing water to the engine, I already changed the seals and mechanical seal and even so it continues to pass water to the engine, I wanted to know if there is another fault that could cause this problem, thanks
I guess the first question is.. Is the exhaust smoking white at all? That would indicate a head gasket leak or failure. My initial guess is water pump seal. Shit I wish I had some useful advice.
How much water are we talking about? And are you certain it's coolant, or is it just water? In the winter if you're doing a bunch of short ~3-7 minute rides where the bike isn't getting totally hot, it can introduce condensation into the engine that doesn't evaporate out. That didn't sound like your issue, but just want to rule out variables.
Super helpful...thanks! Where did you find that bendy driver thingey?
Ares 51000 flexible screwdriver with 1/4" drive. $15 on Amazon. www.amazon.com/gp/aw/d/B082BJ47W9?psc=1&ref=ppx_pop_mob_b_asin_title
@@matttriestodothings Man...I just wanted to come back and say thanks! That flexible driver made all the difference in getting that rear tensioner bolt back in. Without it, I'd still be in the garage!
@@treering Oh that's just friggen awesome to hear man! Congrats on the valve adjustment. Onward and upward to the 2022 riding season!
Here I am, two years later and my valve clearances need adjusting again. Thanks again for the video! The bendy screwdriver worked like a champ again!
😮😮👍👍👍 受益良多👍👍
I'm glad to hear it was useful.
Did you buy a shim kit or order from suzuki? If you bought the kit what is th od of the shim
Hot Cams 30 Pack Shim Kit 5/ea in .05 Increments from 1.50-1.75mm 7.48mm OD
Would you mind to share the service manual.
If you are free pls give me a link pls.
Not sure there is a download of the service manual for free. I have the big ass hardcopy.
Question, should I buy an extension socket like you used for the rear tensioner or the flexible one? Can I use the flexible one for unscrewing and screwing too?
Every other example I've seen of people doing this has been done with a collection of extension sockets. A wobble would be best. I hadn't seen anyone else use the bendy screwdriver.
That being said, when I do this again in the future... I'm just putting spools on the swingarm and putting it on the paddock stand and taking the rear wheel off.
@@matttriestodothings thanks! Gonna tackle this later today.
@@Max.527 How did you go Max. Hope all was well. I’m doing mine soon
@@murraycharters6102 follow this video. All was very well explained and it went smoothly for me!
Nice work
Thanks Vasil.
Woah so there’s no tappet nut there’s a tiny shim to install?
Nope. These are shim under bucket. So instead of changing the tappet height on a rocker arm, you change the shim out to different sizes to affect the valve clearance.
Thanks
No problem Craig. Hopefully it's useful.
First visit here. The channel name is cool too... 😜
heh, thanks man.
Retired diesel tech of 43 years and a generator mechanic in the military.. I KNOW IT'S NOT A DIESEL, why in gods name remove a cam for a valve adjustment, no adjustment screw? What's with shims? How do you know what shim? This engine is very confusing WHAT THE HELL
Service intervals I'm guessing. Most of these SV/DL 650 engines probably need one adjustment in 50,000 miles or more. The locknut engines I've worked on are generally 1,500 - 6,000 mile intervals that the manual calls far.
I put off doing this on my SV for a long time because it was intimidating compared to the locknut adjusters. I *do* wish that you got a printout of the shims that were installed in the bike when it was new so you knew what you were working with. There's no way to know what is sitting underneath that bucket until you pull it out (as far as I know).
What a viciously ridiculous bit of engineering. I bought my 2015 VStrom two years ago with 5,000mi on it and it’s now at 18,000. I have no intention of ever removing the valve covers on this bike and will just take my chances that the clearances stay “close enough”.
A lot of people do exactly what you mentioned and are just fine. I'm not saying it's the best idea, but I've heard a lot of stories of bikes over 50k miles that haven't been touched.