Bondo vs Wood Filler - Smoothing Large Scale 3D Prints
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- Опубліковано 13 гру 2022
- Hey everyone! I'm working on a Warhammer 40k Ultramarines helmet for my son. Looking to smooth out the fine lines between print layers and some small gaps made during assembly, I'm playing around with two methods: Bondo and Wood Filler.
Bondo has been my tried and true method on a lot of projects over the years, but there are a lot of things I don't like about it. It's hard to clean off. It dries really fast and I end up wasting some material. And it makes a ton of dust when I'm sanding. Doing some reading online, I found people talking about using common wood filler to accomplish the same goal.
Take a look and see how the wood filler (MinWax color match, in this case) stands up against Bondo glazing putty. The results are very promising!
Video shot using the following equipment:
Camera: iPhone 8 Plus
Sound: Boya BY-WM4 PRO-K4 Wireless Microphones
Edited with iMovie for iPhone
#warhammer #warhammer40k #3dprinting #armor - Розваги
Nice! Thanks for the advice!
A trick my dad taught me is to put a small bit of glue on the area you're going to put the wood filler onto and it helps it stick a little bit better when you sand it off.
The spot putty/acetone mix is much better for large areas, but wood filler is best for small spots. Also be careful to not use thick layers. The thinner the layers, the stronger it will be. I use a mix of Elmer’s glue and gorilla wall spackle(gotta get the brand names) and it works wonders and it’s a lot thicker so you can actually build onto a part with it. Also I’m an RC aircraft guy and I use Elmer’s wood filler to fill in “hangar rash” and it has yet to damage the foam. Don’t use the bondo on eva or epp. It will melt the foam. Don’t forget to “trust the process” and use high grit to low grit sandpaper. Trust me on that I’ve messed up enough prints to know that it’s the only way to get the results you want. I start with 180/360(depending on how bad it is) and then go to 400/600 and then 800/100 for a very smooth finish. Use automotive filler/primer to get a perfect smooth surface. Follow this and your prints will never have layer lines or deformities again. Happy making!!!
Thanks for the advice! I haven't worked much with EVA, so I'll file this away for later.
Another method I’ve heard for bondo is mixing it with acetone. That’ll give the consistency of paint and it’ll be much easier to apply. I tried it once and it was great, but I don’t think I added enough acetone
Cool! I never tried adding acetone to it to make it flow better. I'll be sure to try that sometime.
@@timbaird its way more toxic, make sure u wear a good mask and good ventalation, it will stink a room fast, price wise, can`t go wrong with wood filler
Acetone STINKS. Like really bad. Use your PPE if you do this, and this comes from someone who never uses PPE. You want the consistency of pancake batter. Using the Bondo brand is roughly 3 parts Bondo, 1 parts acetone. I use a kitchen scale that does grams, but that’s overkill. You can eyeball it. Also you can use NEOPRENE gloves for working with it and Bondo. Do not use lexan because the Bondo will melt it. Happy making!!
Wood Filler also can mixing with acetone as well.
You can use 3d printing resin and a uv light
I'll have to look into that, thanks! I work with a lot of different UV curable resins at work, typically for gluing abnormal parts to each other, but never for smoothing print lines. It'll be something neat to try!
I'm pretty sure that i saw in someone's other video, that you can mix both Bondo & PVA wool filler together, the bondo goes off slower.
I always wondered about bondo, but i use wood filler with acetone so i could cover my prints even. I see people do the same with bondo, but I don't want red dust staining anything.
The red dust is annoying! I used a damp rag to try to clean it up, but felt that I never got it all and probably messed up the first layer or primer going on. The wood filler sands and cleans more easily, so that's a plus.
walmart had a special on lepage wood filler, 128 g for 1 $ each hehe, i bought it all 15 tubes, as i just got into 3d printing, got like 25 years in crafting all kinds, but starting again and was using bondo, it sets fast, maybe sometimes to fast, toxic, wood filler is great, people say it shrinks, well maybe a little, fill it in if it does, i never saw anything shrink, maybe a huge spot filled, like u said, i will now use wood filler, bondo for big spot to fill in, ty for the vid, oh yes i will not use acetone to saved a few min of work, toxic stuff u got to keep away of have a real good spot for ventelation and mask, good one
Thanks for sharing
Thanks for watching!
Thanks for commenting!
If you haven't already, try mixing a little bit of acetone with the Bondo putty to thin it out. It will go on a lot easier and fill in better. You also get a slightly longer working time. Definitely wear gloves though.
Ooh, I never tried that. Thanks!
And you can even airbrush it if you thin it enough (the glazing putty that is)
Just don’t use your best airbrush and make sure you CLEAN IT OUT lol
Super helpful video. Where did you get the file for that helmet? It looks really cool but I cant seem to find that exact one
Hey there! I just took a quick buzz around and it appears to have been taken down from www.thingiverse.com
I recommend checking there to see if there's another one that tickles your fancy. Good luck and have fun!
I've heard that wood filler has less vapors than bondo and glazing putty. Is there that big of a difference? I don't want to risk my health that much if there is
It's definitely a concern... Bondo can be bad for the lungs if you're breathing it in with no ventilation or mask. We have a benchtop exhaust booth to pull air from the work bench, so I wasn't 'too worried', but it's a concern. Wood filler is pretty safe, so that's another perk to it's use.
💥 *promo sm*
Not at all! Just trying to share my experiences with both. Each have their pros & cons and are good in certain situations.