You are right it is not wood, but it is ridged in layers or grain very similar to wood. The way some adhesives work is by filling in the grooves/pores etc and expanding slightly as it cures. This means it actually has a grip in the surface defects. Now other adhesives straight up melt the surfaces chemically together both work great for 3d printing when used properly.
Very useful! I was doing it the cheap/ineffective way of using a mix of superglue and baby powder, which worked fine for small holes but is a nightmare for anything larger. I'll definitely have to give this a try
*As for anything one should always sand the surface before adding filler or paint for best results. *. I’ve worked in Paint & Body shops for years. If your surface is smooth and you think you should paint on it without a light scuff/sand with a high/smooth wet sand, I recommend that you do, it eliminates possible chipping later. Furthermore there are also scuffing pads that can be purchased for pre paint scuffing specifically for before paint prep. Good luck with everyone’s projects!!
Gonna use this for Squall's Gunblade that I've made. I tried the first 6 pieces of the blade at an angle, in order to make it so that I wouldn't have as much of an issue sanding it, but the supports didn't come off right, so now it needs a TON of filler. Thanks for the video man! Real game changer.
I've used the filler "plastic wood" with good results. It does have acetone in it and bonds really nice to ABS parts. But it hardens in about 15 minutes, usually less.. It's also more of a putty then a goop and can be molded, and smoothed with tiny bit of acetone.
i use a soldering iron to melt and shape seams. zero glue and solid transition. good for melting old supports to fill gaps or using filament from near empty spool as filler.
Idk if I’m just too impatient to sand properly, but I use Bondo to fill seam gaps from glueing two printed parts together and I can never get the lines to be completely invisible. This method looks like I’d be able to get the desired effect. Thank you!
@@HoffmanEngineering yeah I switched to wood filler and now I’m having pro results. All this time I thought I was doing something wrong, Im starting to think maybe Bondo has great results but just takes a lot longer and much more sanding
i guess Im asking randomly but does anybody know a trick to log back into an instagram account? I was stupid lost my account password. I love any tips you can offer me.
@Finnley Uriah Thanks for your reply. I found the site thru google and im in the hacking process atm. I see it takes quite some time so I will reply here later with my results.
Works great, at least on the PLA prints I've used it on. I'd suggest, however, that you buy the Elmer's wood filler that changes color (purple to white) once it's dry. That makes it really easy to tell when everything is perfectly dry, no matter how thick the coat is. The white color also makes it very apparent when you've sanded down to plastic, the valleys between print layers being filled with the white putty. I use dark blue PLA, so the white really stands out.
I didn't know they made color changing filler! I've seen that on glue sticks and such, but not on wood filler That is a great suggestion, I will definitely have to try that.
I've used epoxy clay (Apoxie Sculpt) on some projects (not 3D printed ones, tho). It's stiffer than typical wood fillers, but dries pretty tough, sands nicely, and doesn't give off volatile organic compounds (that I know of). You do need to wear gloves while working with it as it is an epoxy. If wood filler sticks to 3D prints, I can't see why epoxy-based fillers wouldn't.
I don't know "Bondo" works so well because it bonds well. I have had wood filler flake off even on wood which is its intended purpose and the last thing you want is to put the time in for a proper paint job and then a little heat expansion or bending of the plastic and a chunk just pops off. Body filler works well even on PETG which in my experience super glue doesn't even stick to.
I'll keep you updated on how the wood filler works. Luckily this helmet is extremely rigid (due to the fact that it is 13 separate pieces solvent-welded together, so I won't have to worry about flexing too much. I can see it being an issue with thinner and more flexible parts though, for sure.
I didn’t even need to watch this video to tell you that yes it does work. Sand it after it’s very dried and notch out fine lines with an exacto knife, Primer, gloss coat, and a sealer help to preserve the finish. Works like a charm 💁🏼♂️
Use automotive glazing putty. Comes in a tube with the consistency of toothpaste, no mixing and dries hard in 30-45 minutes. Super easy to work with. Has a slight smell but nothing like bondo. Easily sands and will adhere to plastics very well. I fear wood filler will eventually come loose and flake off.
Yes, Most any auto store that carries any paint (even rattle cans) should have it. It will be next to Bondo. Bondo is used on cars to fill in the big stuff but then it's sanded down and glazing putty is then used to fill any minor stuff as well as sanding marks. It shrinks a little when drying so either over fill and sand down or expect to use 2 coats if filling anything large.
very cheap and easy way is vinyl spackling if you apply it with a small or large paint brush put it on thick and then next coat use more water in the brush hardly no sanding .. and you can paint right over it and it will not come off BTW .. you will be very impressed by any spackling compound at any hardware store..
I was trying Wood Filler with a helmet, but after one coat of primer, it still scratches off. Don't know if it needs more coats and a final paint to remain strong.
DAP Plastic wood also works well, but it does use acetone (which isn't the most plesant vapor). Outside of that, it tends to paint like plastic, work like wood
I don't think they would, nothing I have read about using wood filler has mentioned that it worked for one type of filament and not another. This filament was an ABS from 3D Solutech. Its the only roll I've purchased from them, but its printed pretty well so far!
Pretty interesting. What do you thing about using this wood filler to smooth out prints? Instead of sanding the plastic smooth you would fill it in and sand it down instead.
I've heard of people using wood filler for just that purpose. The plastic can be hard to sand and get a smooth surface, but this wood filler sands so easily. Another option that I am going to try with this helmet is Filler Primer. Its a spray paint that goes on thick, and is designed to fill in small defects. I've heard that those kind of filler primers are perfect for 3D prints to help hide the layers.
So if you press on it does it break the filler? I designed a fidget cube but the parts dont align properly. If I add filler to cover the seems and defects. Does touching it mess it up after it’s been painted over?
Hello it’s 2024 btw sorry no one answered you comment I don’t actually have an answer I just felt sorry that no one answered so uhhh yea. Do have to solution to your question so sounds like a skill issue lol for you loserrrrr
I use it to add texture to miniature bases, sticks like sh*t to a blanket. For better adhesion, it can also help to wet the surface you're applying it to.
You are right it is not wood, but it is ridged in layers or grain very similar to wood. The way some adhesives work is by filling in the grooves/pores etc and expanding slightly as it cures. This means it actually has a grip in the surface defects. Now other adhesives straight up melt the surfaces chemically together both work great for 3d printing when used properly.
Totally thought it was the helmet of the dark knight in monty python
Wolf Den Marketing same concept 😹
same xD
Seam lines? 'Tis but a scratch
Me too!
Tis but a seam line
Very useful! I was doing it the cheap/ineffective way of using a mix of superglue and baby powder, which worked fine for small holes but is a nightmare for anything larger. I'll definitely have to give this a try
*As for anything one should always sand the surface before adding filler or paint for best results. *. I’ve worked in Paint & Body shops for years. If your surface is smooth and you think you should paint on it without a light scuff/sand with a high/smooth wet sand, I recommend that you do, it eliminates possible chipping later. Furthermore there are also scuffing pads that can be purchased for pre paint scuffing specifically for before paint prep. Good luck with everyone’s projects!!
noted !!!
Gonna use this for Squall's Gunblade that I've made.
I tried the first 6 pieces of the blade at an angle, in order to make it so that I wouldn't have as much of an issue sanding it, but the supports didn't come off right, so now it needs a TON of filler. Thanks for the video man! Real game changer.
I've used the filler "plastic wood" with good results. It does have acetone in it and bonds really nice to ABS parts. But it hardens in about 15 minutes, usually less.. It's also more of a putty then a goop and can be molded, and smoothed with tiny bit of acetone.
i use a soldering iron to melt and shape seams. zero glue and solid transition.
good for melting old supports to fill gaps or using filament from near empty spool as filler.
oh damn now i have another use for my dusty soldering iron!! thank you vm
Idk if I’m just too impatient to sand properly, but I use Bondo to fill seam gaps from glueing two printed parts together and I can never get the lines to be completely invisible. This method looks like I’d be able to get the desired effect. Thank you!
I used bondo for years before switching to wood filler. Bondo was always a pain to work with.
@@HoffmanEngineering yeah I switched to wood filler and now I’m having pro results. All this time I thought I was doing something wrong, Im starting to think maybe Bondo has great results but just takes a lot longer and much more sanding
Same here. Tried it tons of times with even wider and smaller gaps in-between test prints. Pretty much worse than useless!
An old credit card, or folded stiff cardboard would probably improve the application. Thanks for sharing your technique!!
I'll be using wood filler in a few hours from now, so this video and the primer video will definitely come in handy for me!
i guess Im asking randomly but does anybody know a trick to log back into an instagram account?
I was stupid lost my account password. I love any tips you can offer me.
@Nasir Kyng Instablaster ;)
@Finnley Uriah Thanks for your reply. I found the site thru google and im in the hacking process atm.
I see it takes quite some time so I will reply here later with my results.
@Finnley Uriah It did the trick and I actually got access to my account again. I am so happy:D
Thank you so much you saved my account :D
@Nasir Kyng No problem xD
You can use a wet sponge also to help contour
Works great, at least on the PLA prints I've used it on. I'd suggest, however, that you buy the Elmer's wood filler that changes color (purple to white) once it's dry. That makes it really easy to tell when everything is perfectly dry, no matter how thick the coat is. The white color also makes it very apparent when you've sanded down to plastic, the valleys between print layers being filled with the white putty. I use dark blue PLA, so the white really stands out.
I didn't know they made color changing filler! I've seen that on glue sticks and such, but not on wood filler That is a great suggestion, I will definitely have to try that.
I would be careful with that stuff. -It tends to shrink dramatically.
Very useful. Thank you. How do you feel about wood filler now after all this time? Would you still use it?
I will try this on a helmet I'm making for small holes an dings. Thanks for your videos!😉
I've used epoxy clay (Apoxie Sculpt) on some projects (not 3D printed ones, tho). It's stiffer than typical wood fillers, but dries pretty tough, sands nicely, and doesn't give off volatile organic compounds (that I know of). You do need to wear gloves while working with it as it is an epoxy. If wood filler sticks to 3D prints, I can't see why epoxy-based fillers wouldn't.
Interesting, I'll have to give that a try. Thanks for the suggestion!
Let me know how it goes!
Do you think you can do a comparison between wood filler and wood putty, I'm wondering how both of them would compare in 3d print finishing.
Nice. Going to try this as soon as Amazon deliver it
I don't know "Bondo" works so well because it bonds well. I have had wood filler flake off even on wood which is its intended purpose and the last thing you want is to put the time in for a proper paint job and then a little heat expansion or bending of the plastic and a chunk just pops off. Body filler works well even on PETG which in my experience super glue doesn't even stick to.
I'll keep you updated on how the wood filler works. Luckily this helmet is extremely rigid (due to the fact that it is 13 separate pieces solvent-welded together, so I won't have to worry about flexing too much. I can see it being an issue with thinner and more flexible parts though, for sure.
I usually use Bondo Gold.
I didn’t even need to watch this video to tell you that yes it does work. Sand it after it’s very dried and notch out fine lines with an exacto knife, Primer, gloss coat, and a sealer help to preserve the finish. Works like a charm 💁🏼♂️
Good for you
Use automotive glazing putty. Comes in a tube with the consistency of toothpaste, no mixing and dries hard in 30-45 minutes. Super easy to work with. Has a slight smell but nothing like bondo. Easily sands and will adhere to plastics very well. I fear wood filler will eventually come loose and flake off.
can i find it in autozone or something of that nature?
Yes, Most any auto store that carries any paint (even rattle cans) should have it. It will be next to Bondo. Bondo is used on cars to fill in the big stuff but then it's sanded down and glazing putty is then used to fill any minor stuff as well as sanding marks. It shrinks a little when drying so either over fill and sand down or expect to use 2 coats if filling anything large.
only thing that sucks is the fumes.
very cheap and easy way is vinyl spackling if you apply it with a small or large paint brush put it on thick and then next coat use more water in the brush hardly no sanding .. and you can paint right over it and it will not come off BTW .. you will be very impressed by any spackling compound at any hardware store..
Vinyl spackling, eh? I've never used it, but I'll definitely put it on my list of things to try!
I was trying Wood Filler with a helmet, but after one coat of primer, it still scratches off. Don't know if it needs more coats and a final paint to remain strong.
Can wood filler be used to hide those tiny layer gaps as well? Like for figures for example. If yes, how?
This is old but yes it definitely will.
Joining your channel, I realy appreciate your tips and tricks! Thank you pal
Better off to use the dap brand white wood filler it goes on much nicer and Sands way better
It’s better if you scuff the area you want to fill, and instead of using the popsicle, definitely use your fingers, it cleans off easily.
I use woodfiller but it leaves these random divots after sanding that it takes forever to fill.
DAP Plastic wood also works well, but it does use acetone (which isn't the most plesant vapor). Outside of that, it tends to paint like plastic, work like wood
That might work well with ABS prints, as ABS dissolved in acetone. Maybe it would help the two surfaces bond together. I'll have to give that a try!
\[T]/ Praise the wood filler
Hey that looks really nice. I might end up trying that for prop building.
Let me know if it works for you!
+Hoffman Engineering I forgot to ask, what filament did you use for that print? hopefully the results do not vary depending on type of filament.
I don't think they would, nothing I have read about using wood filler has mentioned that it worked for one type of filament and not another. This filament was an ABS from 3D Solutech. Its the only roll I've purchased from them, but its printed pretty well so far!
Im wondering if something like stucco would work the same way
Why do some people tend to say pop more like pup? Is that a regional thing? This is a real question not trying to make fun of it or anything.
That helmet is gorgeous
Does it hold paint well?
Considering what it's made for, probably better than the plastic.
Praise the sun it works
There is a gap approx 8-10 mm.
Can we fill this from wood filler ?
Pretty interesting. What do you thing about using this wood filler to smooth out prints? Instead of sanding the plastic smooth you would fill it in and sand it down instead.
I've heard of people using wood filler for just that purpose. The plastic can be hard to sand and get a smooth surface, but this wood filler sands so easily. Another option that I am going to try with this helmet is Filler Primer. Its a spray paint that goes on thick, and is designed to fill in small defects. I've heard that those kind of filler primers are perfect for 3D prints to help hide the layers.
So if you press on it does it break the filler? I designed a fidget cube but the parts dont align properly. If I add filler to cover the seems and defects. Does touching it mess it up after it’s been painted over?
when i am doing this should the 3d print already be sanded or do i put wood filler on it and then start to sand?
what part of Florida are you in.....i am in Florida too....i been trying to find friends who are into 3D Printing from my location and its been hard
Have you tried using spackle?
Is it better than Xtc-3D? Tried it and XTC is way to thick even though i thinned it with acetone.
Thanks for sharing. How does it handle the flexing of plastic?
It doesnt
From the UK can I use any wood filler
Yup, I'd think any brand of wood filler would work!
@@HoffmanEngineering how does this work when applying paint any issues
Do you sand the separate
Pieces be before you add the filler ?
Hello it’s 2024 btw sorry no one answered you comment I don’t actually have an answer I just felt sorry that no one answered so uhhh yea. Do have to solution to your question so sounds like a skill issue lol for you loserrrrr
Instructions weren't clear. I used Hummus and now my print is ruined.
😂
😂it really does look like that
One word - Apoxie
Is that like Epoxy or similar too?
@@tomc8157 no, it's not similar at all. Apoxie is a very specialized 2 part air dry putty
This time I will do it manually with the help of Woodprix designs.
I use it to add texture to miniature bases, sticks like sh*t to a blanket. For better adhesion, it can also help to wet the surface you're applying it to.