How to Replace Front Lower Control Arm 2008-2013 Nissan Rogue
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- Опубліковано 10 лют 2025
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New Control Arm with Ball Joint from 1AAuto.com trq.video/ib-1...
This video shows you how to install a new quality TRQ lower control arm with ball joint in your 2008-2013 Nissan Rogue. Control arms are a crucial part of the suspension system of your vehicle. They not only carry the load of the vehicle to the wheel, but they typically also maintain its alignment. Control arms are typically large and strong, so you may be surprised it needs replacing. They contain rubber bushings for smoother rides at the cost of eventual wear, or integrated ball joints that require replacing the entire arm when they wear.
This repair was done on a 2009 Nissan Rogue S 2.5L Sport Utility 4-Door AWD Automatic and the process should be similar on the following vehicles:
2008 Nissan Rogue
2009 Nissan Rogue
2010 Nissan Rogue
2011 Nissan Rogue
2012 Nissan Rogue
2013 Nissan Rogue
Tools you will need:
• Pry Bar trq.video/oRI-...
• 18mm Wrench
• 20mm Wrench
• 18mm Socket
• 21mm Socket
• Pickle Fork
• 1/2 Inch Impact Gun trq.video/orX-...
• Ratchet trq.video/obwJ...
• Socket Driver
• Socket Extensions trq.video/obo8...
• Torque Wrench trq.video/oaAw...
• Gloves trq.video/oXA-...
• Safety Glasses
• Chisel trq.video/okt-...
• Floor Jack trq.video/o2h-...
• Hammer
• Jack Stands trq.video/oRt-...
• Wheel Chocks
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Nissan Rogue 2008-13 1st Generation: • Nissan Rogue 2008-13 1...
⚠ DISCLAIMER:
While TRQ strives to make the information provided in this video as accurate as possible, it makes no claims, promises, or guarantees about the accuracy, completeness or applicability of the content. No information contained in this video shall create any expressed or implied warranty or guarantee of any particular result. All do-it-yourself projects entail some risk. It is the sole responsibility of the viewer to assume this risk. TRQ is not responsible or liable for any loss damage (including, but not limited to, actual, consequential, or punitive), liability, claim, or any other injury or cause related to or resulting from any information posted in this video.
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Fantastic step by step process. Great camera work and editing.
TRQ PLEASE improve this as follows. One commenter says Pinch Bolt won't go back in with new Control Arm tapped into the Pinch Bore - exactly as I suffered in ignorance on my first side (denting my tapped in Pinch Bolt's Threads against what turned out to be a 'Too High' Pinch Pin. Another commenter says new Ball Joint won't go into the Pinch Arm (I think with Pinch Bolt left in but nut fully loosened - exactly as I'd tried on my second side. TRQ - TEACH and SHOW - as a New Video Insert just after your Tap In @ 08:29 - that the new Ball Joint must be Tapped In JUST EXACTLY ENOUGH (I'm guessing +/- 0.25 mm or 0.01inch) to show a SMOOTH BORE when you Sight Carefully Through the Whole Length of Both Sides of the Pinch Bore. AHA! We DIY'ers need to be taught that the half-circle cutout part way up the Ball Joint's Pinch Pin is Nissan's Perpendicular Interference Fit SAFETY DESIGN. It assures that the Ball Joint's Pinch Pin can NEVER Fall Down and Out of the Steering Knuckle's (Thru-Bolted) Pinch Joint. I wasted perhaps 6-8 total hours scratching my head without THAT understanding, by having to recover from my Different Mistakes on First and Second Sides. TRQ - add a bit to Show the Bore Sighting with Ball Joint Pin tapped in Too High and/or Too Low at first, then giving a 'Tiny Adjustment Tap' to achieve a PERFECTLY smooth Bore Sighting BEFORE you TRY to Insert the Pinch Bolt. Until then, I hope my too long comment will Help the Next Person!
What a project to get the ball joint out
What if the bolt with ball joint doesn't want to go back on
Thank you for the video. parts for this job cost under $200 and yet I was quoted $4000 for this job by a mechanic shop. Justified? I do not think so.
I’d like to know what the name of the shop is that would think charging 4k for a lower replacement is that amount
8:00 I always load the suspension before tightening these bolts.
Amazing! Thanks so much.
Need to wait to reinstall sway bar links until after you torque the forward mounted control arm bolts. Otherwise they will block access to the bolts (that is why they were removed in the firs place.
Thank you so much for a great video!!!
I had 2 problems with this job, the front A arm frame bolt was a "B" to get started, and if you push the ball joint in to far the locking bolt is a PIA to get in, it has to be precise and eyeballed to allow it to go into the locking clamp for the ball joint itself
You should use C clips to remove the arm control instead of hammering
Great video! 💪🏼💯👊🏼🫡
THANKS!
Did you compensate for the extension on your torque wrench? Most sites say 107 ft lbs
WHAT'S THE WARRANTY ON THOSE PARTS ?? I'M INTERESTED BUYING IT
I’ve done several and removing the sway bar link isn’t necessary, furthermore tightening the two 21mm bolts all the way will hinder a person doing it without a hoist.
That ball joint won’t be as easy on the ground, I leave those bolts loose to help line up that ball joint.
Is the bolt joint the same as a wheel barrow?
I cant put he ball joint ball back. The ball joint is on the way of the bolt
Exlent job
How often do the struts go out?
How long did this take without editing?
What if the pinch bolt snaps off?
Is the cv shaft messed up after the lower control arm fails?
I need a video of the rear changing unless it's the same thing...
Doing driver and passenger started on passenger came off no problem....whooping my a** getting the new one lined up
Could you put subtitles for all next videos! Thanks
There was no 20 mm bolt/ screw at the back of link at all. On my 2012 rogue
My 2014 Rogue's original Factory Links had Torx Holes (I think T35) Machined Into their Bolt Ends. I held my Torx (I think Size T35?) 'Allen Wrench Socket Bit' into the Link Bolt End as my Ball Joint Rotation Stop while also Loosening the Factory Link Nut with my (IDK) 18 or 19 mm Racheting Box End. A Crescent or a Crowfoot Socket would also work WITH your T35 in the Factory Link's Bolt End. TRQ's New Link Bolt did NOT have that Factory Nissan T35-Insert Bolt End. But, it DID have this TRQ Video's mentioned 20-mm FLATS which I WAS able to get my (Small; only 10-in) Crescent Wrench's semi-thin Head to fit onto. But, I had to gently push my (Slightly Thicker than Fixed Open-End 20mm Wrench!) Crescent Wrench Face Back JUST a bit against the new TRQ Link's Rubber Ball Joint Bellows before I could Tighten my Crescent Wrench to (Only) 20mm - tight against the Flat Faces of my TRQ link's 'Backup Nut'. Why? Because I found that a Very Thin FRONT FACE of my new TRW Link's built-in 'Backup Nut' was actually a bit LARGER and Fully Round - like the Round Rim of a Flange Nut which DOES also have its Hex Flats ... just slightly Above (or Below) that Thin Over-sized Full-Round Rim.
Same, you have to use the allen bit and hold the nut with a wrench. Absolute nightmare to break loose for me.
IM NEW TO THIS CAN SOMEONE TELL ME WHY HE REMOVED BOTH TIRES SEEMED KINDA POINTLESS IF SOMEONE COULD PLEASE EXPLAIN
He explained it in the video. It’s to lower the sway bar. You’ll have to remove both end link bolts to lower it.
How fo u know when there bad
Doing one right now. Absolute garbage design, ball joint is a bear.