Nissan Rogue How to Replace Front Lower Control Arm / DIY
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- Опубліковано 23 сер 2019
- This video is about How to replace lower control arm on Nissan Rogue.
This job takes about two hours per side.
Parts and tools you can buy here:
www.amazon.com/shop/influence...
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DISCLAIMER:
All the information provided in this video as accurate as possible, it makes no claims, promises, or guarantees about the accuracy, completeness or applicability of the content. No information contained in this video shall create any expressed or implied warranty or guarantee of any particular result. All DIY projects entail some risk. It is the sole responsibility of the viewer to assume this risk. I'm not responsible or liable for any loss damage (including, but not limited to, actual, consequential, or punitive), liability, claim, or any other injury or cause related to or resulting from any information posted in this video.
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Thank you very much for taking your time to show a very detail step by step video. I am now more confident to do it myself.
Thank you for watching 😉
Crucial information you provided that I have not seen anywhere else is the torque specs. Thank you for posting this.
Thank you for watching!
Best I've seen in 7 years of business!
Thank you!
Lowering the car to ride height was a great idea. I did my control arm without doing this and it clicks a bit..will definitely do this on the weekend to get the bushing seated just right. Thank you
Thank you!
@@mikes.garage did this and it worked. No more click
Great!
great video man! it helps me a lot.
Thank you! 😊
Thank you Mike! It really helpful video. Price in Nissan dealership is 920$ just for the labor !!!
Thank you for watching!
Thank You Sir. You’ve been a tremendous help. I seriously couldn’t of done it without your video.
Thank you for watching 😉
After watching only 1 minute and 30 seconds of this video... I realized and completely understood that I will be taking my car to my mechanic.
This is a big boy job only.
I like big boys.
@@TheDickMan_ where you from?
@@Vince-xg7ih why?
@@TheDickMan_ because. I'm a big boy
I notice the breaker bar you used ratchets. Were you using a torque multiplier on it? and if so where do I get one for mine.
Did you notice whether the two 21mm bolts rattled a bit as you inserted them into the captive nut? I expected the nut should be welded to the subframe but it actually feels like its just loose in a nut shaped hole.
Nice 👍🏼 well documented.
Thank you for watching!
I was the 1000 like...this was a great video
Thank you!
Thanks for the vid! Does this replacement require an alignment after? Doesn’t look like it has any adjustments but I know some places check after anything suspension related is replaced.
Thank you for watching! I would check alignment for sure! This is right thing to do after any suspension work, as you said 😉
Great video!
Just a question: why did you put jack stands under ball joints and lowered the car on them at the end? Is it just for safety? 🤔 or did it help in way? Thanks
Thank you! I did it before tightening all the bolts. This is done in order to simulate like the car is with the wheels on the ground and then the bolts are tightened so that the new rubber bands do not experience heavy load. Something like this ) Kind of like control arms located in a work position before you tight them.
Good video. Thanks for the help!
Thank you for watching!
Thank you! Absolutely amazing!
Thanks!
Noticed you had brand new sway bar linkage u were removing. It takes a torch or cut off wheel here in the rust belt of western New York
Maybe change them too at the same time 😉
Hey man I just put on the TTX stabilizer bars and wow... try them out if you get a chance
Thank you SO MUCH for the toque specs!!!!!
Would you happen to know the torque spec for the outer tie rod castle nut?
Thank you for watching! Sorry I don't have repair manual for that car anymore.
Great Video! Will be doing the same job (plus new sway bar links) this weekend on my 2012 Rogue. Did the alignment change after replacing your FL Control arms?
No, alignment was fine. I did replaced the sway bar links just before)
@@mikes.garage part number on control arm?. this fits 2014 rogue
@@1408r should fit 2014 but better check by your self, it depends on model. rover.ebay.com/rover/0/0/0?mpre=https%3A%2F%2Fwww.ebay.ca%2Fulk%2Fitm%2F152482132620
after doing this my self, your control arms went in way to friggin easy man, i dont know how the hell you did it like that
I just have some more practice.
DO NOT try it this way, it doesn't work. Dog bone bolts will never go in!. Instead, install the single rear bushing bolt, then the two dog bone bolts, then the ball joint. Tap the ball joint in with a rubber mallet. As In all the other how to videos.
Thanks for sharing the video, is very detailed good for DIY, I will going to doing 🔜.
Thank you for watching 🙂
One quick bit of advice. I find it much easier to first bolt the control arm to the frame, then, pull down on the control arm to insert the ball joint into the kunckle. Easier for me anyway.
Nice video good job.but question did those after market control arm last a good time before the bushing went out again?
Thank you! I don't know how long those control arms will last as I sold that car after 10000 km. If you have money buy original parts 😉
Great video 👌👏👏👏
Thank you!
Thanks for Sharing.
Thank you for watching!
Fun fact: on oe sway bar links for my specific rogue, you cant fit a wrench on the ball joint part. It's totally round. On the passenger side I had to loosen the nut as much as I could but eventually gave up and cut it off with a metal blade sawzall
You may use vise-grip pliers.
Yes mine too. I used a real small pipe wrench. Vise grips were slipping on me.
Great video. Do you need an alignment after changing that part?
Thank you! After this job alignment is not necessary but recommended.
So you took off the sway bar links on both driver and passenger side to raise the sway bar?
Yes, I did. This is for better access for removing control arm.
Thank you bro 👍
I ran into issues doing mine. Got the nut off easily on the ball joint, but the BOLT is rust welded in the hole. I can't even turn it with a large 1/2 breaker bar. Not sure what I will do tomorrow when I return to working on it. Afraid I will strip the head if I continue and I don't have a torch.
You should spray with WD40 overnight, this could help. If not you need to buy torch.
Muchas gracias por el vídeo!👍 Lo voy hacer
Thank you for watching!
I have to replace my control arm, because the ball joint I bought from autozone fell right into it without pressing it in. Felt weird I drove it for a bit, because everything felt tight after putting it together then bam today my ball joint fell out. Luckily I was going slow, and the tire didn't fall off like I've had happen before going 60mph in a 95 civic. I got super lucky, and was able to putt it back home.
You probably get the wrong parts. I had once the same problem but I return it right away and got replacement with correct parts.
My ball joint will not come out at all, I’ve been trying to get it loose for an hour and a half. I’ve used the separator and the hammer for so long I’m hoping there’s another way I can get this ball joint loose.. any tips?
You can separate knuckle with small chisel. Also torch can help.
I can't get that front stabilizer bar to move. What's the trick? Does the sway bar link need to be disconnected on both sides? I'm guessing that's why mine isn't moving.
Yes, you need to disconnect sway bar links from both sides
Need help one of two bolts 🔩 on the right hand side are blocked by the metal piece that connects to sway bar and it won't move plz help
Disconnect sway bar links and lift it up, as it shows in a video.
2.55mins How can you take off those bolts if they won’t come off with a breaker bar or socket or impact gun?
Try to put longer extensions and breaker bar with extra pipe on top.
3:23 are you pushing or pulling on that bolt. I'm having difficulties getting mine loose but I finally went and bought a half inch breaker bar
I pulled on that bolt. And yes, you need a breaker bar )
@@mikes.garage I finally got it with the breaker bar. But now for some reason the two bolts that screw into the subframe I can't get them to start and I put a jack underneath the ball joint lifted it up and I got them to start that way. But I got way too hot and had to take a break so I'm not finished yet 😂
@@ryangarner6099 ok, good luck with this! You can have a difficult time to put control arm back still.
@@mikes.garage okay thank you I appreciate the video also.
This is good👍 Just wonder why open balljoint from bolt side... I have learned in practice that always start nut side. Bolts are usually totally stuck, but nut opens without or with liquids and heat. Big fight is usually with bolt, which is so rooted that need to use Your all imagination to get it loose. And I wonder, why many "complete" tool sets still do not include 18mm....
Thank you for watching! I don’t know why I did it that way at that time
also after doing this my steering wheel is crooked and car seems a bit loose on bumps
Then you need to go for alignment.
Cant put bot back ball joint blocking it
Do you need an alignment after this? Or you’re good to go?
Yes, alignment is good things to do after work like this.
Thanks look easy 😂
Hi, is this for nissan xtrail? Mine is 2015. Cheers
Hi, this is for Nissan Rougue
Stabilizer bar torque specs are 72ft/lbs on top, 55ft/lbs on bottom.
Thanks for adding information!
My sway bar won’t move at all. How did you manage to move yours so easily?
I replaced them before this job. They just broke.
Well I managed to install everything but I won’t be able to torque one bolt I’m not sure how to go about that thank you though
@@hugoordonez1999 Just make sure that bolt is tight.
It was a very helpful video. thanks you.
However, it says that the torque of 21mm bolt is 71Nm, but it is a mistake of 171Nm, isn't it?
Those who do DIY replacement should be careful about torque.
Thank you for watching! Yes, you are right! I made a mistake with Nm at least ft-lb I put correctly. I will try to fix it. Thank you to mention this!
Great video. Straight to the point and most importantly the first three minutes weren't of some dumbass spewing a useless personal history of all the bumps in they've ever hit.
Thank you for watching!
do yourselves a favor and when putting bolts back on use some anti-seize grease on the fittings.....helps a lot next time around especially if you live in the Midwest!
Next time, this car going to scrap yard, as it has over 200000 km already 🙂
@@mikes.garage LOL well for me ill drive it and repair it until i can't sit in the seat anymore! ha ha
@@mikes.garage You know too was speaking in general terms not specifically this car ;) :)
@@sirtubemaster same with me )
I wish my ball joint came out that easy lol
Spread the ball joint clamp with a cold chisel
What brand did you use ?
I don’t remember, that was long time ago
@@mikes.garage
Ok thanks !
Great video... Impact would be easier on some of the bolts and that music is 👎 but great video
Thank you for watching!
Tips- when installing the New Arm- DO NOT try it this way, it doesn't work. Dog bone bolts will never go in!. Instead, install the single rear bushing bolt, then the two dog bone bolts, then the ball joint. Tap the ball joint in with a rubber mallet. As In all the other how to videos. Also tip for getting out stuck ball joints, get a dead blow chisel, and tap it in to spread the ball joint clamp where the bolt was. I just saved you 2.5 hours!
Each car has its own situation. I couldn't do it as you say.
@@mikes.garage No, I appreciate this video, but I could not get the dog bone bolts in in 1.5hrs of serious effort, compressing with the jack, the arm moves away, angle is wrong if the ball joint is in. Putting the rear bushing in first, then the dog bone, then the ball joint i got it done in abut 5 mins, FYI.
If only I had read this comment first 🤣. Everything I needed to do is done but having a difficult time with the arm
Wish I woulda read this comment 2.5 hrs ago 😆
Correct thats how we do it at the dealership, then just put a jackstand below the ball joint and slowly lower the car from the hoist.
WHAT YEAR / GENERATION?
This is 2008 1-generation
Is he s joiner or an engineer with that hammer that tells a story 🤔 😳
Spraying Wd40 on rusted bolts is useless, it’s written clearly it’s a lubricant, forget it if you are in places that has harsh winter. The Nissan rogue in this video is considered zero rust , you should see Canadian or New York nissan rogues. You need something called rust penetrant.
This Nissan was from Calgary AB in Canada.
what's the name of this song lol?
I have the name in description 😉
Pretty much a regular maintenance item on the Rogue. POS. Great video though. Many will not have as easy of a time getting that last bolt in, lol.
This Rogue drives 230 000 km with original control arms.
Mike's Garage drive in the rust belt?
@@nickpurdy5489 I don't get the question )
Mike's Garage might be an issue with corrosion. I had a lower control arm, outer tie rod, wheel bearing, and inner tie rod all gone before 75k. But I live in Chicago with salty roads. The engine cradle is also corroded to hell. I don’t have this issue on any of my other vehicles and they are washed weekly in the winter months.
@@nickpurdy5489 I see. I live in Calgary, over here is even colder. And yes, this car had some rust and all parts what you said was replaced before, plus sway bar links.
My mechanics quoted me $1,040 + taxes (Parts $440, Labor 5 hours/$600) for this. Is that reasonable??
You can try to buy parts by yourself. 5 hours labor is reasonable but you can find $100 in hour rates
@@mikes.garage thank you so much for the response. I'm thinking about getting the parts and have someone replace them for me. But I'm not sure if the mechanics/car shop usually allow that? What is your thought?
@@witarzan Usually shops allow your own parts but they not give you warranty on them.
Why should i do this step 2:00??
Can i just dont do it and do the other steps safely???
You don't have to do it, you just have limited access to the bolts and it's on harder to remove them and install them after.
@@mikes.garage you mean i have to do all steps in this video to get the job done with easiest way
@@mknss9186 you can try to do it your way. This video just to show you an idea how everything is looks like and what needs to be done to do this job. You can try to do it your way and let me know if it's easier. 🙂
You are the boss here and in saturday morning i will watch your video (again) and follow you in every point 😉 wish me the good luck this is my first servise by my hand
@@mknss9186 Good luck to you with you first repair! Do not rush and don't be scared! Sometimes drive axle can come out of transmission side and some transmission oil can run out, this is normal. Afrer need to put everything back in place and that's it.
wish could just change the bushes with orginal ones without changnig the whole control arm!
My bolt was like welded
To rusty?
Mike's Garage yes
@@asankovlogs did you get it out? I hope )
Yes I destroyed the bolts from hitting
Mike's Garage help?? The left axle came out from inner oil leaked what should i do now??? Is it broken or just out?
Great video except for the hammer part. The wrong type of hammer. I would have used a small sled hammer for about one to two hits.
Thank you for watching!