I'm doing this job for the 4th time in 3 years. The first time it broke I found this video and now I always watch this video for a refresher. I've not had any issue with the rod lock clips although one is completely by feel. If you look at it first you will know where to position the parts. All in all the best video for the job. I do appreciate the time you took to put this out there. Good work bro.
Thank you for the video, it was very helpful. I was able to follow your instructions easily. However, at 8:05 definitely don't pry against the glass like you did, or you'll might just shatter the window. You see the little vertical notch in the tab? Push your flat head driver right into the notch, and the tab will pop out.
This video will help me to a point , my door lock went bad but I wasn't sure what all I needed to remove and the window regulator came apart so now I have to figure out how to get all the cables properly ran , but this video will help me get it back together .
Just took everything apart to get the window up and try to fix it without the regulator, but unfortunately the regulator is shot (basically sounds like grinding gears inside) This was very helpful in getting everything taken apart and put together on my 2015 T&C. Ordered the regulator from Amazon, will be here in a couple days. Used taken apart wooden clothespins as shims and a couple large rubber grommets jammed in the bottom of the window to get it to stay up for a few days while I wait on amazon. Thank you so much!
I made a comment about my problem with the 2014 30th Anniversary Edition T&C and could have updated that comment except that I discovered a slightly better way - at least for me. One thing that I did discover is the method to remove the white glide pin from the holes in the window. You will notice that there is a small groove in the white pin - place a wide blade flat screwdriver into that slot at about 30 degrees up from horizontal and give the screwdriver a sharp rap on the handle end and that will pop the pin out of the hole easily. I also discovered that rather than pull the wiring all out so that the entire panel can be removed from the door to work on it, I loosened all the wiring harnesses from their restraints without disconnecting most of them. All that is needed is to remove all of the bolts except the 4 screws holding the regulator to the panel. This allows the panel to be moved forward, lifted up by pulling the panel off the door within the constraints of the harness, but not removing it. Do not remove the yellow latch link that is hard to get at and don't remove the connector from the door latch. The door latch does have to be disconnected so that the panel may be moved forward, pulled outward past the rails for the window regulator and once out of the door, the bottom may be rotated into the window well of the door to hold the panel from moving and leave it on an angle outward from the door where you can work on it from both sides. This way the really difficult to replace things are not even removed so the reassembly is a snap. Now you can see all of the parts that have to be removed on the inside of the panel. Note their positions on the panel. Orient the pieces of the new regulator on a bench so that they are like the old one before you remove the old one from the door panel. When you are convinced that the arch of the rails and the position of the crossing cables matches that of the one you are removing, proceed by disconnecting the motor (3 screws), remove the motor and disconnect the rails (2 screws on each rail). The regulator should now be free to remove from the panel and out of the door cavity. Just lift it off its guide pins and straight up and out. Place the removed pieces together on the bench next to the new one and note that it matches the layout as you determined previously. Then disconnect the two 5/16" bolts from the old regulator that hold the plastic regulator reel (crank) to the forward rail of the regulator assembly. They should be placed in the same location on the new assembly to connect the plastic cranking mechanism to the rail (upper first hole and third hole of four on the rail). Do not tighten these completely yet. For the drivers side door, the pulleys should be facing upward on the bench and the arched portion of the rails should be upward as well. The forward (towards the front of the car) rail should hold the crank and be to the right side while the top of the rails are nearest to you and the farthest part of the rails goes to the bottom. With the assembly now complete, but the restraint for the crank that holds the reel together still in place, pick up both rails (rear in your left hand and front in your right hand) and place them into the door cavity and onto their respective mounting pins. The three holes for the screws that hold the motor will poke through for the motor to mount on. Assemble the rails to the panel - rear one first and then the front. Tighten these into place on the rear one but just tight on the front one. Make sure that the cables are routed in the same way as the old ones (as much as you can tell since the thing was all apart in there). The top of the crank should be near the top of the panel - the cable comes out of the top of it and threads around the upper pulley down to the glide (plastic piece that connects to the window itself). Another cable goes from that white plastic glide down to the bottom of the rail, around the pulley there, then all of the way to the top of the rear rail pulley and down to the white plastic glide on the rear rail. Another cable goes from that white glide to the bottom pulley on the rear rail and then up to the reel where there are approximately six wraps of cable that are continuous with the first and last cables mentioned (in other words, there are two cables - one that connects the two glides together without going through the crank and one that connects them together through the crank). Now you can snip the restraint for the reel and remove the restraint. The reel is being held in place, but mount the motor as soon as possible. Tighten the screws for the motor, taking care to not tighten them too much - they will strip. Now tighten the bolts that hold the plastic crank to the forward rail that were left loose previously. Tighten the rail screws (forward might still be loose) and pull the panel out of the door cavity again. Slide the panel back into position and place one or two mounting bolts in the upper area. Replace the three screws for the latch assembly and assure that all wires are out of the way for the window and all of the wire harnesses are placed back into their restraints. Now make sure that the bottom of the panel is inside the door cavity so that the panel is flush with the door and insert the bottom bolts to finger tight. Replace the remaining bolts finger tighten them and then tighten them all with a wrench. Release the window pinning wedges that you used and allow the window to slide down to the glides and press the windows into the glides until the pins snap into the holes in the window. You might have to persuade the white pins to open far enough to slide over the glass. Be careful, they will break. Hold down on the window and push on the pin until they slide together - you might have to give the window a good palm rap to get that to happen. Now you can button it all back up per the video. Check this out - it might be a valid excuse to make another video which includes a few more variations of the T&C such as my 30th Anniversary Edition.
Very fine video! I had a problem similar to another person who commented. My 2014 30th Anniversary Edition T&C had a pop noise when the window was raised - I couldn't help myself - I tried to lower the window and it fell. (It probably would have anyway.) The problem that I encountered was that the window was down so I couldn't get at the keepers that hold the glass. I was able to lift it, but not far enough to get both into view. I got one but had to take out the regulator brackets loose and lift one side up through the window shield until the rearward glide was available. The other problem was that I could not get the wiring harness out - it has an extra wire set in the harness for the side sensors or something (blind spot). I had to get the unit out to get at the end of the harness. But the most difficult was the smaller wire link (probably used to lock the car during remote start - idk). It was easily as hard to disconnect as the main one (yellow), but it was nigh unto impossible to reconnect - even with the main assembly partially removed. I had to feel my way, holding both the wire and the thing it was supposed to connect to and sliding them around and around until I finally was able to connect. I also found the lock connector difficult to reconnect - I had to take the assembly apart again because I couldn't get at it. I was able to repair the regulator by pulling out the pulley (sheave) and re-wrapping the cables around it. I just started from the outside and wound in the grooves until both met at the center. I carefully put it back into the regulator body and reassembled the rest of the regulator. All was fine until I was going to hook the forward glide to the cable. I couldn't figure how it had to be assembled. There was a spring that seemed to be out of place and the hook for the upward travelling cable out of the glide was unable to stop the end of the cable from passing through it. I determined that the spring belonged in the glide and that worked, but a piece of the glide was missing - so this fix would be temporary at best. The cable end stop goes into the end of the spring putting tension on the system in addition to that of the spring on the other side of the pulley. I think that the reason it failed was that when I raised the window and it reached the top, it hit firmly and the plastic piece broke out after many such operations. Then on the fatal one, the plastic was gone so the spring managed to deform enough to escape the holding mechanism and 'pop'. When I tried to lower the window, the software just turned the motor but the cables didn't move - just ground around one another. Then it released the window to fall to the bottom of the rails. I might be able to use the repaired system for a little while or a long while, but it needs to be replaced for sure. But I had to take it almost all apart to get the window up so I went ahead with the repair. When I reassembled the unit after returning the spring to its operating location, I determined that the tension on both sides of the system was extremely high. Both springs were almost maxed out (fully compressed) when they were installed. I had to spring the whole unit to get the cable onto the last idler. How can the system work with virtually no give? Kinda defeats the purpose of the springs IMHO. I think that I would have provided some sort of tension adjuster and allowed the springs a minimum of 1/4" to full compression at least. Hope this adds something to your the description of your excellent video. Update 6/15/2019 - the first time I drove the car after the window regulator was repaired, I went to O'reilly's and purchased the same part for $60 plus tax that the video guy bought for $43. On my way home with it, the window popped again (I confess, I forgot and tried to close the window further to stop some minor wind noise that I heard.) So last night I easily removed and reinstalled the new regulator. Hope it lasts.
Thanks for the video. It's august in fl, same thing happened. Put the window down to get a bug out & boom, glass fell Thanks for the info. Ordered one on amazon. I only wish you showed how to remove the cable from the inside door handle. Thanks again.
I have a 2010 Grand Caravan too. Just had the window drop down into the door earlier today. Going dig in tonight to see what broke... Wish me luck! Thanks for posting the video!
Michael... It's the regulator, no doubt. Either the cable broke or one of the pulleys it rides on has broken (they're just cheap plastic). Window electric motor is probably good so don't buy that just yet. AutoZone sells the regulator for around $70 and they usually have them in-stock. Super easy to change. Just take your time and take lots of pics so you can see where the wiring was routed and which connectors went where. Pull the window up out of the door and hold it in place with either tape or tapered wood shims (if you have them) jammed between the window and the door. Good luck!
Much appreciated my friend. Had this happen this morning, and checked pricing, 550 for a mechanic to do it, or 60 for the tools and parts for me to do it. Got the disassembly done, just waiting for the part to come in now.
Great video. It worked for me. However i used a t25 bc i didnt have a t27 and it caused no problems for me. The way the star holes are tapered the t25 fit down inside the holes. Anyways good video.
This was very helpful I watched this video, purchased tools, and did the install. My install was harder because the cable was wrapped around the gears. I had to the remove the cable in order to raise the window. Now my window is working for 2010 Grand caravan thanks.
My window just fell down. I found this video. I think i might need a new regulator. I still have to take everything apart but wish you would have actually shown what you were doing when taking things apart. Thx for the video though at least i have a ball park idea of what just happened to my window.
The video is literally me showing what I am doing while taking it apart. Did you even watch it? I didn’t film removal of every screw, but if someone needs that much help I recommend taking it to a professional.
Do NOT remove the control rods off the door latch. It is the hardest and least productive way of getting this done. Remove the door latch rods at the top ends. The clips pull back and you can release the rods with a LOT less trouble than trying to feel your way behind that latch. Putting the latch on that carrier panel was pure stupidity IMO. But Dodge/Chrysler power windows have been insanely bad for a very long time.
Great video, but would have been nice to show the process of snapping the window back in those white clips. It can be a pain to get the glass snapped back in.
I used plastic toilet shims you can get at Lowe’s. Needed 2 1/2 packs and doubled them up back-to-back on the bottom part of the window. You could also use a clamp that can go around the door frame at the top of the window to hold it up.
Great video!! Very helpful!! And thank you, Sir for your time into putting this video together. My question is.. what is the part number to this regulator? The one that is in our van show “DC-X RT Front” 3015597D 454.. the only confusion I’m having it’s on the driver’s side. If you have any input please let me know thank you again..
Still have a problem!!! HELP Thank you, got it done but now my it goes back down if I try and shut it up all the way and on the auto up feature. PLEASE HELP.
Question: 89 dodge can- driver's side window won't elevate(passenger side works fine)..the Haynes manual says :remove door panel and raise the door glass" and after many attempts including removal of the adjusting rod, the glass could not be raise .Any suggestions on how to manually raise the window would be greatly appreciated
James Klukas usually I just try to get a good grip on the glass and push it up, but I’ve had times where something was blocking it or was creating tension and squeezing somewhere along the glass preventing it from rising. Hard to say without seeing yours, and and a 1989 Dodge would be way different than my T&C so most of the content in this video would not apply for you. Good luck!
Any idea what would make the window start then stop within about 1 sec every time? I replaced the motor and regulator....and it works but just stops until you release and the press the switch again.
Aaron Taylor Sorry, I don’t know. You probably already know this, but it sounds electrical like a bad switch or contact. Could be a short in one of the wires. Check to make sure they aren’t pinched or bent.
How did u know it was just mod and not the motor when u went to purchase a new part ? This just happened to me I rolled down my window and when I rolled it back up I heard a pop and the window slid down into the door :(
In my case I could hear the motor working, but the window wasn’t moving and was stuck down. I am not a professional mechanic, but if the motor breaks I would presume it would not sound like normal.
Did you buy the can new? That part was actually a dealer replacement that went bad on you. We used to see then bad from the factory. That's how poorly designed they are.
Daniel Gearhart Mine involved scraped knuckles... Small hands would help, but you basically need to reach in and get a hold of it with your fingers, then pull the yellow plastic piece up from the bottom. Once the yellow piece has pulled from the metal arm you pull the metal arm out. And the bad news is putting it back in is pretty much just as difficult...
The 8 minute mark was golden for me. I watched other videos, but this was the only way i could remove those clips from the glass. Thank you!
Excellent video. This is easier to follow than the ones from the so-called pros.
I'm doing this job for the 4th time in 3 years. The first time it broke I found this video and now I always watch this video for a refresher. I've not had any issue with the rod lock clips although one is completely by feel. If you look at it first you will know where to position the parts. All in all the best video for the job. I do appreciate the time you took to put this out there. Good work bro.
Thanks for the kind words. Glad I could help!
Thank you for the video, it was very helpful. I was able to follow your instructions easily.
However, at 8:05 definitely don't pry against the glass like you did, or you'll might just shatter the window. You see the little vertical notch in the tab? Push your flat head driver right into the notch, and the tab will pop out.
Thanks for the input. That part definitely felt sketchy.
I appreciate the no talk captions as a better way to get the instruction across. some shps charge $375 to do this job
This video will help me to a point , my door lock went bad but I wasn't sure what all I needed to remove and the window regulator came apart so now I have to figure out how to get all the cables properly ran , but this video will help me get it back together .
Just took everything apart to get the window up and try to fix it without the regulator, but unfortunately the regulator is shot (basically sounds like grinding gears inside) This was very helpful in getting everything taken apart and put together on my 2015 T&C. Ordered the regulator from Amazon, will be here in a couple days. Used taken apart wooden clothespins as shims and a couple large rubber grommets jammed in the bottom of the window to get it to stay up for a few days while I wait on amazon. Thank you so much!
Oh and it was raining in FL again today...haha. Wife wasn't happy about driving her van with the window open.
Glad to be a help to you. Hope the repair went well.
DonKelly88 went great! Second time pulling it apart was much easier. 40 dollar part much less money than paying 200+ for someone else to repair
I made a comment about my problem with the 2014 30th Anniversary Edition T&C and could have updated that comment except that I discovered a slightly better way - at least for me. One thing that I did discover is the method to remove the white glide pin from the holes in the window. You will notice that there is a small groove in the white pin - place a wide blade flat screwdriver into that slot at about 30 degrees up from horizontal and give the screwdriver a sharp rap on the handle end and that will pop the pin out of the hole easily.
I also discovered that rather than pull the wiring all out so that the entire panel can be removed from the door to work on it, I loosened all the wiring harnesses from their restraints without disconnecting most of them. All that is needed is to remove all of the bolts except the 4 screws holding the regulator to the panel. This allows the panel to be moved forward, lifted up by pulling the panel off the door within the constraints of the harness, but not removing it. Do not remove the yellow latch link that is hard to get at and don't remove the connector from the door latch. The door latch does have to be disconnected so that the panel may be moved forward, pulled outward past the rails for the window regulator and once out of the door, the bottom may be rotated into the window well of the door to hold the panel from moving and leave it on an angle outward from the door where you can work on it from both sides. This way the really difficult to replace things are not even removed so the reassembly is a snap.
Now you can see all of the parts that have to be removed on the inside of the panel. Note their positions on the panel. Orient the pieces of the new regulator on a bench so that they are like the old one before you remove the old one from the door panel. When you are convinced that the arch of the rails and the position of the crossing cables matches that of the one you are removing, proceed by disconnecting the motor (3 screws), remove the motor and disconnect the rails (2 screws on each rail). The regulator should now be free to remove from the panel and out of the door cavity. Just lift it off its guide pins and straight up and out.
Place the removed pieces together on the bench next to the new one and note that it matches the layout as you determined previously. Then disconnect the two 5/16" bolts from the old regulator that hold the plastic regulator reel (crank) to the forward rail of the regulator assembly. They should be placed in the same location on the new assembly to connect the plastic cranking mechanism to the rail (upper first hole and third hole of four on the rail). Do not tighten these completely yet.
For the drivers side door, the pulleys should be facing upward on the bench and the arched portion of the rails should be upward as well. The forward (towards the front of the car) rail should hold the crank and be to the right side while the top of the rails are nearest to you and the farthest part of the rails goes to the bottom. With the assembly now complete, but the restraint for the crank that holds the reel together still in place, pick up both rails (rear in your left hand and front in your right hand) and place them into the door cavity and onto their respective mounting pins. The three holes for the screws that hold the motor will poke through for the motor to mount on. Assemble the rails to the panel - rear one first and then the front. Tighten these into place on the rear one but just tight on the front one. Make sure that the cables are routed in the same way as the old ones (as much as you can tell since the thing was all apart in there).
The top of the crank should be near the top of the panel - the cable comes out of the top of it and threads around the upper pulley down to the glide (plastic piece that connects to the window itself). Another cable goes from that white plastic glide down to the bottom of the rail, around the pulley there, then all of the way to the top of the rear rail pulley and down to the white plastic glide on the rear rail. Another cable goes from that white glide to the bottom pulley on the rear rail and then up to the reel where there are approximately six wraps of cable that are continuous with the first and last cables mentioned (in other words, there are two cables - one that connects the two glides together without going through the crank and one that connects them together through the crank). Now you can snip the restraint for the reel and remove the restraint. The reel is being held in place, but mount the motor as soon as possible. Tighten the screws for the motor, taking care to not tighten them too much - they will strip.
Now tighten the bolts that hold the plastic crank to the forward rail that were left loose previously. Tighten the rail screws (forward might still be loose) and pull the panel out of the door cavity again. Slide the panel back into position and place one or two mounting bolts in the upper area. Replace the three screws for the latch assembly and assure that all wires are out of the way for the window and all of the wire harnesses are placed back into their restraints. Now make sure that the bottom of the panel is inside the door cavity so that the panel is flush with the door and insert the bottom bolts to finger tight. Replace the remaining bolts finger tighten them and then tighten them all with a wrench.
Release the window pinning wedges that you used and allow the window to slide down to the glides and press the windows into the glides until the pins snap into the holes in the window. You might have to persuade the white pins to open far enough to slide over the glass. Be careful, they will break. Hold down on the window and push on the pin until they slide together - you might have to give the window a good palm rap to get that to happen.
Now you can button it all back up per the video. Check this out - it might be a valid excuse to make another video which includes a few more variations of the T&C such as my 30th Anniversary Edition.
Thanks for the input. The screwdriver tip would have helped me. Hopefully it can help someone else if this happens to them.
Very fine video! I had a problem similar to another person who commented. My 2014 30th Anniversary Edition T&C had a pop noise when the window was raised - I couldn't help myself - I tried to lower the window and it fell. (It probably would have anyway.)
The problem that I encountered was that the window was down so I couldn't get at the keepers that hold the glass. I was able to lift it, but not far enough to get both into view. I got one but had to take out the regulator brackets loose and lift one side up through the window shield until the rearward glide was available.
The other problem was that I could not get the wiring harness out - it has an extra wire set in the harness for the side sensors or something (blind spot). I had to get the unit out to get at the end of the harness.
But the most difficult was the smaller wire link (probably used to lock the car during remote start - idk). It was easily as hard to disconnect as the main one (yellow), but it was nigh unto impossible to reconnect - even with the main assembly partially removed. I had to feel my way, holding both the wire and the thing it was supposed to connect to and sliding them around and around until I finally was able to connect. I also found the lock connector difficult to reconnect - I had to take the assembly apart again because I couldn't get at it.
I was able to repair the regulator by pulling out the pulley (sheave) and re-wrapping the cables around it. I just started from the outside and wound in the grooves until both met at the center. I carefully put it back into the regulator body and reassembled the rest of the regulator. All was fine until I was going to hook the forward glide to the cable. I couldn't figure how it had to be assembled. There was a spring that seemed to be out of place and the hook for the upward travelling cable out of the glide was unable to stop the end of the cable from passing through it. I determined that the spring belonged in the glide and that worked, but a piece of the glide was missing - so this fix would be temporary at best. The cable end stop goes into the end of the spring putting tension on the system in addition to that of the spring on the other side of the pulley.
I think that the reason it failed was that when I raised the window and it reached the top, it hit firmly and the plastic piece broke out after many such operations. Then on the fatal one, the plastic was gone so the spring managed to deform enough to escape the holding mechanism and 'pop'. When I tried to lower the window, the software just turned the motor but the cables didn't move - just ground around one another. Then it released the window to fall to the bottom of the rails. I might be able to use the repaired system for a little while or a long while, but it needs to be replaced for sure. But I had to take it almost all apart to get the window up so I went ahead with the repair.
When I reassembled the unit after returning the spring to its operating location, I determined that the tension on both sides of the system was extremely high. Both springs were almost maxed out (fully compressed) when they were installed. I had to spring the whole unit to get the cable onto the last idler. How can the system work with virtually no give? Kinda defeats the purpose of the springs IMHO. I think that I would have provided some sort of tension adjuster and allowed the springs a minimum of 1/4" to full compression at least.
Hope this adds something to your the description of your excellent video.
Update 6/15/2019 - the first time I drove the car after the window regulator was repaired, I went to O'reilly's and purchased the same part for $60 plus tax that the video guy bought for $43. On my way home with it, the window popped again (I confess, I forgot and tried to close the window further to stop some minor wind noise that I heard.) So last night I easily removed and reinstalled the new regulator. Hope it lasts.
Thanks for the video. It's august in fl, same thing happened. Put the window down to get a bug out & boom, glass fell Thanks for the info. Ordered one on amazon. I only wish you showed how to remove the cable from the inside door handle. Thanks again.
I've got to do this very job on my 2010 Caravan tomorrow. Thanks for putting this very helpful video up - it sure will help me do the job smoothly!
That Bob Guy Great! I hope the video helped.
DonKelly88 - It absolutely did! The job went very smoothly thanks to you. Thanks again :-)
I have a 2010 Grand Caravan too. Just had the window drop down into the door earlier today. Going dig in tonight to see what broke... Wish me luck! Thanks for posting the video!
Michael... It's the regulator, no doubt. Either the cable broke or one of the pulleys it rides on has broken (they're just cheap plastic). Window electric motor is probably good so don't buy that just yet. AutoZone sells the regulator for around $70 and they usually have them in-stock. Super easy to change. Just take your time and take lots of pics so you can see where the wiring was routed and which connectors went where. Pull the window up out of the door and hold it in place with either tape or tapered wood shims (if you have them) jammed between the window and the door.
Good luck!
Just did it on my caravan 2011 thanks to your video, thank you for showing us how to do it. :)
Miguel Roman fantastic! My pleasure. Glad I could be a help!
Thank you for this video! Used it in 2019 to fix the passenger window, using it again in 2021 for the diver side window.
I just replaced my window regulator and motor on my 2012 T&C...all thanks to your video. Thanks for uploading!!
Much appreciated my friend. Had this happen this morning, and checked pricing, 550 for a mechanic to do it, or 60 for the tools and parts for me to do it. Got the disassembly done, just waiting for the part to come in now.
Awesome. Hope it all worked out.
Great DYI video. Saved me many hours of frustration, thanks!
Ed Ray glad I could help!
I wish I could buy you a beer, sir!
Ditto that!
Great video. It worked for me. However i used a t25 bc i didnt have a t27 and it caused no problems for me. The way the star holes are tapered the t25 fit down inside the holes. Anyways good video.
This was very helpful I watched this video, purchased tools, and did the install. My install was harder because the cable was wrapped around the gears. I had to the remove the cable in order to raise the window. Now my window is working for 2010 Grand caravan thanks.
JOHN HILL awesome! Great to hear.
I'm about to do this on my 2012 T&C wish me luck. Great tutorial. Thanks for walking is through it.
Michael-Patrick good luck. It really isn’t too bad!
Thank you so much, I was able to fix this myself thanks to your video.
My window just fell down. I found this video. I think i might need a new regulator. I still have to take everything apart but wish you would have actually shown what you were doing when taking things apart. Thx for the video though at least i have a ball park idea of what just happened to my window.
The video is literally me showing what I am doing while taking it apart. Did you even watch it? I didn’t film removal of every screw, but if someone needs that much help I recommend taking it to a professional.
Thank you for sharing. I've got the same project to do on my 2015!
Good luck! It isn’t that bad.
Do NOT remove the control rods off the door latch. It is the hardest and least productive way of getting this done. Remove the door latch rods at the top ends. The clips pull back and you can release the rods with a LOT less trouble than trying to feel your way behind that latch. Putting the latch on that carrier panel was pure stupidity IMO. But Dodge/Chrysler power windows have been insanely bad for a very long time.
I did that yeaterday now Im cussing my way back to putting it on
It definitely takes some dexterity. Thankfully, I have mechanics hands.
This video did not give enough detail on the latch clips and one of my broke. I had a lot of trouble getting a replacement.
I enjoyed your video. It was very helpful. Thank you!
Thank you so much!!!! This helped me get thru the entire project!!!! You are a saint for sharing this.
David Stromberg Glad it helped!
Very helpful, thanks a lot!!!
I too, wish I could buy you a beer!
Great video, but would have been nice to show the process of snapping the window back in those white clips. It can be a pain to get the glass snapped back in.
You need a cameraman but very informative,in spite of the camera work, good job!
I used plastic toilet shims you can get at Lowe’s. Needed 2 1/2 packs and doubled them up back-to-back on the bottom part of the window. You could also use a clamp that can go around the door frame at the top of the window to hold it up.
@@AnthonyBerryman-sc3ew Good tip. They had one that holds 80lbs at Harbor freight for 2.49, it worked great.
Thanks for your videos.
Thank you very much, took your advise and got it done. Great video.
This is my issue right now thank you.
Removing the latch is a major pain. This job is pretty difficult. I wish I never attempted it. Putting it back together wasn't easy either.
Great video!! Very helpful!! And thank you, Sir for your time into putting this video together. My question is.. what is the part number to this regulator? The one that is in our van show “DC-X RT Front” 3015597D 454.. the only confusion I’m having it’s on the driver’s side. If you have any input please let me know thank you again..
I just need to replace a Mirror, but the disassemble is the same for the covers, thx.
Super helpful
Still have a problem!!! HELP
Thank you, got it done but now my it goes back down if I try and shut it up all the way and on the auto up feature. PLEASE HELP.
Thank you!
How did you get the black molding off? Thank you for great video!!
THANKS
How does the window go back in the clips without breaking?
Hahahahah "rainy season in Florida" means sometime between January and December.
Helped me out!
Tony Richmond Glad to help!
💪🏻👍🏽💪🏻👍🏽👍🏽
You shouldn’t of cut out the part where you reattach I really need that now lol
Question: 89 dodge can- driver's side window won't elevate(passenger side works fine)..the Haynes manual says :remove door panel and raise the door glass" and after many attempts including removal of the adjusting rod, the glass could not be raise .Any suggestions on how to manually raise the window would be greatly appreciated
James Klukas usually I just try to get a good grip on the glass and push it up, but I’ve had times where something was blocking it or was creating tension and squeezing somewhere along the glass preventing it from rising. Hard to say without seeing yours, and and a 1989 Dodge would be way different than my T&C so most of the content in this video would not apply for you. Good luck!
Any idea what would make the window start then stop within about 1 sec every time? I replaced the motor and regulator....and it works but just stops until you release and the press the switch again.
Aaron Taylor Sorry, I don’t know. You probably already know this, but it sounds electrical like a bad switch or contact. Could be a short in one of the wires. Check to make sure they aren’t pinched or bent.
How did u know it was just mod and not the motor when u went to purchase a new part ? This just happened to me I rolled down my window and when I rolled it back up I heard a pop and the window slid down into the door :(
In my case I could hear the motor working, but the window wasn’t moving and was stuck down. I am not a professional mechanic, but if the motor breaks I would presume it would not sound like normal.
How do you get the new clips back onto the window?
BaconStrips0 you basically position the clip so all you have to do is push it in. Once it is in place you push it all the way in until it clicks...
I guess not 1 of you has had a problem with re learning the anti pinch feature afterwards??
Did you buy the can new? That part was actually a dealer replacement that went bad on you. We used to see then bad from the factory. That's how poorly designed they are.
nbookie No we bought it used. Not surprised at poor workmanship. Unfortunately that is the expectation these days.
Any tips on re-clipping the window?
push down on the glass until it clicks. Did this last night.
Not bad for a ravens fan
Help! I can’t get that stupid yellow piece off inside the door. What’s the trick? I think it’s part of the lock....
Daniel Gearhart Mine involved scraped knuckles... Small hands would help, but you basically need to reach in and get a hold of it with your fingers, then pull the yellow plastic piece up from the bottom. Once the yellow piece has pulled from the metal arm you pull the metal arm out. And the bad news is putting it back in is pretty much just as difficult...
Ugh, this just happened to my 2014 t&c. When the window fell, it sounded like broken glass. I haven't looked yet. Worried. 😭
I just replaced mINE 2 years ago, at a garage, and last night IT WENT AGAIN, DODGE IS SO CRAPPY
Hi daddy from kate