@@Blah2829 KH570 for the inlet, which is what went out on mine. I also ordered the outlet which is part # KH573 . I got OEM motorcraft parts so they’re a bit more expensive than the doorman part he linked in the description.
This is great! Pulled into a parking lot today in my '14 Platty straight to a steam show. The engine side of the hose broke clean off right at the fitting. Replacement hose on AMZ is around $40-50, local supply stores around $80! It will be here in 2-3 days, then I will know what to do when it arrives. Thank you!
I followed this video for my 2014 F150... 2 hours later and I got the new hose on! Took me a little longer because it's 27 degrees F in southern IN, and I kept having to go inside to keep my fingers from freezing solid lol!!! I bought one of those pliers that are designed for those clips. The one in the front wasn't too bad, but the one in the back was really difficult to get off. It beats paying a mechanic to do it for $500! Thank you for this detailed video. I hope I never have to do this again!
Thank you for this video ,I pulled in my driveway today and mine blew out all the way so because of this video it’s already fixed for work tomorrow,THANK YOU
@@BLUECOLLARGARAGE the bolt @ 5:28 that holds that piece down do you know the specs on that bolt like size is it a M20- something thanks for your help BIG TIME
Just got back from vacation, noticed a leak, freaking hose cracked/dryrotted, couldn’t find any parts locally on a Sunday, but this will help me out come Tuesday. Thanks!
Man I've been looking for this exact video, replacing that hose this evening. Wasn't sure on the firewall side of the hose assembly, glad to see its the same quick connect as the block side.
You can but you’d have to find the correct one and I don’t know who sells it. I figure it’s just safer to replace the whole hose that way your getting new rubber as well
some info Don't know about the 2014 and prior, 2015 and up have a 3/4 hose and the fitting is 3/4 The Fitting is Dorman 90 degree 800-418 is 3/4 push to 3/4 hose or 800-411 is a straight if preferred, I believe 90 is better because the hose pulls hard on either straight or 45 fitting causing fatigue. I find a hot knife is best to remove the FACTORY plastic fitting. Heat a junk knife or metal slice and push through plastic collar. As needed crush/squeeze the plastic nipple to get them out, do not loose the chunks into the hoses. If the engine connector is leaking/rotten most certainly the TEES are rotten too. 1in PEX barb has 3/4 OD (push-on fittings, do not use expansion type PEX fittings) Buy 2 BRASS TEE PEX Fittings clamps I was able to reuse the hose from the TEE to the engine... the 90 elbow gave it a little more length. Splices are just as easy too if needed, I'd use PEX brass fittings. Info Dorman 800-404 is a straight 3/4 push to 1/2 hose Dorman 800-403 is a straight 1/2 push to 1/2 hose
I had no success being able to unclip the back so I reached in with a Dremel with a mini saw blade and cut it off. Did it carefully so as not to cut the metal nipple.
Good day. I have a 2017 Ford F150 5.0 v8. I think the video might solve my program. Yesterday, I saw a heavy coolant leak at the rear of my engine running down on the bell housing. I think this hose is the problem. Another video said that if I have this problem, then this hose is where the leak is coming from. Has anyone else experienced this?
You are correct motorcraft has switched back to the yellow coolant but if you keep up on coolant changes you won’t have any issues running the orange still.
STOP. This is the video you’re looking for! Thanks man, this is exactly what I was looking for
What’s the part number??
@@Blah2829 KH570 for the inlet, which is what went out on mine. I also ordered the outlet which is part # KH573 .
I got OEM motorcraft parts so they’re a bit more expensive than the doorman part he linked in the description.
Same!!!
This is great! Pulled into a parking lot today in my '14 Platty straight to a steam show. The engine side of the hose broke clean off right at the fitting. Replacement hose on AMZ is around $40-50, local supply stores around $80! It will be here in 2-3 days, then I will know what to do when it arrives. Thank you!
I followed this video for my 2014 F150... 2 hours later and I got the new hose on! Took me a little longer because it's 27 degrees F in southern IN, and I kept having to go inside to keep my fingers from freezing solid lol!!! I bought one of those pliers that are designed for those clips. The one in the front wasn't too bad, but the one in the back was really difficult to get off. It beats paying a mechanic to do it for $500! Thank you for this detailed video. I hope I never have to do this again!
Thank you for this video. Holy cow the removal of that quick clip at the firewall is an exercise in character development.
Yeah it’s not the easiest to see or get your hands back there that’s why I was having trouble filming that part.
Thank you! The plastic bit on my completely snapped, this video was a life saver 🤣
Thank you so much!!!! Life saving video right here! Turned my fix from what i thought was a nightmare into an easy task! Appreciate it my guy!
No problem
Thank you! Giving me that part number saved me $700 at the dealership.
700 and it would take them 7 minutes 😢
Thank you for this video ,I pulled in my driveway today and mine blew out all the way so because of this video it’s already fixed for work tomorrow,THANK YOU
That’s awesome, I appreciate the feedback brother!
@@BLUECOLLARGARAGE the bolt @ 5:28 that holds that piece down do you know the specs on that bolt like size is it a M20- something thanks for your help BIG TIME
This video also works for coyote mustangs! I appreciate the video!
Your welcome! Thanks for letting me know it works on the mustangs.
@ I couldn’t for the life of me get the clip off at the heater core, so I just got my drill and drilled the fitting loose LOL. But it works!
Just got back from vacation, noticed a leak, freaking hose cracked/dryrotted, couldn’t find any parts locally on a Sunday, but this will help me out come Tuesday. Thanks!
Man I've been looking for this exact video, replacing that hose this evening. Wasn't sure on the firewall side of the hose assembly, glad to see its the same quick connect as the block side.
This is the best video on this heater hose! Thank you!
Thank you very much
I really appreciate you showing how to do this.
Have a blessed day
TY so much. Very helpful and detailed instructions.
Nice vid I want to take out the 5.4 3v out of my expedition and put this engine in
Since it's just the o rings that looses it's ability to seal, can we just replace just that?
You can but you’d have to find the correct one and I don’t know who sells it. I figure it’s just safer to replace the whole hose that way your getting new rubber as well
Great video. Thank you.
Hey thanks again my brother love it
And what happens if it leaks from the part closest to the cab?
Is the doorman hose still holding up ?
Still going strong no issues.
What should I do if the pick that is by the motor end if it keeps leaking
You may need to replace it with this amzn.to/3wDCFO5
@@BLUECOLLARGARAGE I went and got one from my local AutoZone and it quit leaking thank you
some info Don't know about the 2014 and prior, 2015 and up have a 3/4 hose and the fitting is 3/4
The Fitting is Dorman 90 degree 800-418 is 3/4 push to 3/4 hose
or 800-411 is a straight if preferred, I believe 90 is better because the hose pulls hard on either straight or 45 fitting causing fatigue.
I find a hot knife is best to remove the FACTORY plastic fitting. Heat a junk knife or metal slice and push through plastic collar. As needed crush/squeeze the plastic nipple to get them out, do not loose the chunks into the hoses.
If the engine connector is leaking/rotten most certainly the TEES are rotten too.
1in PEX barb has 3/4 OD (push-on fittings, do not use expansion type PEX fittings)
Buy 2 BRASS TEE PEX Fittings
clamps
I was able to reuse the hose from the TEE to the engine... the 90 elbow gave it a little more length. Splices are just as easy too if needed, I'd use PEX brass fittings.
Info
Dorman 800-404 is a straight 3/4 push to 1/2 hose
Dorman 800-403 is a straight 1/2 push to 1/2 hose
Life saver!
I had no success being able to unclip the back so I reached in with a Dremel with a mini saw blade and cut it off. Did it carefully so as not to cut the metal nipple.
Good day. I have a 2017 Ford F150 5.0 v8. I think the video might solve my program. Yesterday, I saw a heavy coolant leak at the rear of my engine running down on the bell housing. I think this hose is the problem. Another video said that if I have this problem, then this hose is where the leak is coming from. Has anyone else experienced this?
Instead of "Lubri-plate," why not lubricate it with antifreeze?
That works too.
What year is this truck
@@coreylane1 2011
why cant you just replace the o-ring?
That pink coolant shouldn't go in a container it should go in the drain. The drain on the ground. You should run motorcraft yellow. That's the update.
You are correct motorcraft has switched back to the yellow coolant but if you keep up on coolant changes you won’t have any issues running the orange still.
At that age, I would replace all of those hoses.
Thank you sir!!