Great video, I was kind of disappointed to find that this is such a common issue for this motor already. My truck only had 80,000 miles when this pump let go.
@@DriveCarToBar forgive me... my other truck is a Tacoma. My standards are a little higher. There is a reason why those things hold there value. It's a whole new world when you just don't have to deal with these problems.
@@joshlewellen9076 Toyota recommends changing the water pump on the 4.0l V6 when you do the timing chains and tensioner between 90k and 100k miles. Not that far off your 80k number.
this has NOTHING to do with a 2009 and 2010 as there was no 5.0 L engine in either one! they had 5.4L engines ( actually they are easier swaps than this)
Make sure you only use a ford/motorcraft brand thermostat, otherwise your engine fan will frequently kick into high and you'll have to drain all the coolant and replace it
Mine just died at 110k miles. It was very easy to come off, guess I got lucky. I'm also the 2nd owner so I wonder if it was replaced earlier which is why it came off so easy. But at least it's a very easy job for a water pump. Next time try some penetrating oil like PBlaster, makes it much easier.
@@g-unit6835 if you used after market thermostat put the factory back in after market ones will make your fan run almost all the time unless you have a good after market one but from my experience doing a few of these they don't like the after market ones
I came to youtube to verify one part of this r&r and have yet to see anyone replace the water pump bolts... My alldata through me a bit when the final torque is a torque to yield amount (60 degrees). To me this is throw away bolt because your stretching it on the final torque.. You don't reuse already stretched torque to yield bolts but in every vid i looked at, we now do?
I was wondering about that as well . But not every "torque + angle" bolt is a TTY bolt . . And it's only holding ~16psi I'm sure it will be fine . . 1000s of people have reused the bolts with no leaks
It's pretty simple if you are a mechanic like me . But I do wish all brands would use the same connectors . Just get good at one type.....instead of having to remember how 100 different styles work lol
I got my water pump replaced and now I have to push my pedal all the way down for my truck to accelerate? It’s goes up slowly Anyone know why it’s doing that I have no check engine light on?
Heater slowly begins to stop working unless you’re pressing on the gas. (Heater core causes air vents from opening). Defrost-button keeps switching from closed-vents to opened-vent. Temperature gage overheating. Check your antifreeze-level ASAP. Replace all your hoses before jumping into the replacing your water pump because it might just be a frozen/torn radiator hose.
Overheating . Poor heater output (could be a plugged heater core however) . Pump is leaking (will go on the pulley and get spun all over the hood and hoses) . Pump is leaking, and just leaving a trail that runs down the engine . Pump makes noise....grinding type sound . With the belt removed....the Pump pulley wiggles in all directions . . . . 9 times out of 10 It will wiggle and make noise . If ya keep driving it....then it starts to leak . . The 1 out of 10.... it just leaks No wiggle or noise
Should have a big nut And the pulley should have 2 or 4 little holes in it . Ya get a spanner wrench (a C with 2 pins that fit in the holes) . Put the big wrench on the big nut And smack it with a hammer . . Some come off easy Some come off like a pain in the butt . And some are reverse thread . . . When ya put it back on....just get it about 4 turns away from hand tight . Then start the motor . It will spin itself right on, and to the correct torque . . And you can always tighten it by hand if you are worried
@@kainhall Thanks. I ended up going to my local dealer. He had the part number in stock AC3Z-8527-A. This is just the o-ring which retails at $19 vs $29 for a new outlet tube with the o-ring on it. My dealer gave me a discount so cost me $12 for just the o-ring.
You have to look at it. There’s no other indication to my understanding. You might have to take your intake off first like I did, but this will give you the best and easiest view angle. Unless you look from underneath or from a tight angle from the battery side.
It works on more than 1 year . I'm working on a 2014....and the pump pulley only has 3 bolts . But other than that, it's the exact same job . . . Ford kept the 5.0 pretty much the same for 8 or 9 years
Supplies Needed for This Job:
1. Safety Glasses: urlzs.com/hbwc
2. Gloves: bit.ly/2GvfwAm
3. Water pump: bit.ly/2Lgb36p
4. Breaker Bar: bit.ly/2UWfies
5. Ratchet and Sockets: bit.ly/2IEAOOi
6. Coolant: bit.ly/2IWlyvD
Clearly understood O Reillys! You're my kind of people!
I did mine in 5min too. Super easy and won't make you cuss and throw a wrench.
At least its on the outside of engine,
The video shown was done very professionally..very helpful for anyone who wants to do the job themselves..
You should always mention what size to use when removing bolts.
Great video, I was kind of disappointed to find that this is such a common issue for this motor already. My truck only had 80,000 miles when this pump let go.
Only 80k? That's not a bad life for a water pump. Especially since it's a critical part that keeps your motor alive.
@@DriveCarToBar forgive me... my other truck is a Tacoma. My standards are a little higher. There is a reason why those things hold there value. It's a whole new world when you just don't have to deal with these problems.
@@joshlewellen9076 Toyota recommends changing the water pump on the 4.0l V6 when you do the timing chains and tensioner between 90k and 100k miles. Not that far off your 80k number.
Much easier than the 3.5L V6
What happened when it went? Other damage?
Thank you so much, guys! I went today and got a couple of things I needed.
I LOVE O'Reilly Auto Parts!
Thanks for the great video!
wow a 5-10 minute job
Great video!
Great Job guys! ⚓
where do you get the new o ring for the heater outlet tube, does it come with the new water pump?
Nice video. I bet he hates using those ratchets though
Thank you! My Haynes manual is missing section 3/2 that covers the Torque specs needed. 👍
this has NOTHING to do with a 2009 and 2010 as there was no 5.0 L engine in either one! they had 5.4L engines ( actually they are easier swaps than this)
I couldn’t tell by the title..:
@@MovieGasm they changed the title of the video used to say 09-2017
Well done! Thanks for vid!
Hello my water pump pulley seems to be wiggling do I have to replace the whole water pump ? Or can just replace the pulley it self ?
Very good
2014 XLT 3.5 is different, I'd say harder than this to access the thermostat housing bolts to get to the water pump
Great video. Thanks for the help. Tried supporting you guys but your website wouldn't process my payment so had to go elsewhere. Maybe next time!
Great source for auto parts and information
Make sure you only use a ford/motorcraft brand thermostat, otherwise your engine fan will frequently kick into high and you'll have to drain all the coolant and replace it
my water pump was no way that easy to remove.
Same bro. Had to use an fn pry bar. Also he makes it seem like fillng rhe coolant is simple as well.... air pockets on this truck are a nightmare.
@@newlinedetails ya I just did one the pump was almost siezed on lol
Mine just died at 110k miles. It was very easy to come off, guess I got lucky. I'm also the 2nd owner so I wonder if it was replaced earlier which is why it came off so easy. But at least it's a very easy job for a water pump. Next time try some penetrating oil like PBlaster, makes it much easier.
@@g-unit6835 if you used after market thermostat put the factory back in after market ones will make your fan run almost all the time unless you have a good after market one but from my experience doing a few of these they don't like the after market ones
This truck is not the same as my 2009 f150. My fan is connected to my water pump.
My fan is connected to the water pump housing. It like this set-up at all. Need directions on removing the fan.
What’s the part number for the Oring on the heater outlet tube?
Is this same thing with 2017 f150 3.5?
I came to youtube to verify one part of this r&r and have yet to see anyone replace the water pump bolts... My alldata through me a bit when the final torque is a torque to yield amount (60 degrees). To me this is throw away bolt because your stretching it on the final torque.. You don't reuse already stretched torque to yield bolts but in every vid i looked at, we now do?
I was wondering about that as well
.
But not every "torque + angle" bolt is a TTY bolt
.
.
And it's only holding ~16psi
I'm sure it will be fine
.
.
1000s of people have reused the bolts with no leaks
electrical connector and air intake tube were not THAT easy to remove for me. I needed another video just to explain that part
It's pretty simple if you are a mechanic like me
.
But I do wish all brands would use the same connectors
.
Just get good at one type.....instead of having to remember how 100 different styles work lol
I got my water pump replaced and now I have to push my pedal all the way down for my truck to accelerate? It’s goes up slowly Anyone know why it’s doing that I have no check engine light on?
How can I tell if Ford f-150 2014 needs a new water pump?
Heater slowly begins to stop working unless you’re pressing on the gas. (Heater core causes air vents from opening). Defrost-button keeps switching from closed-vents to opened-vent. Temperature gage overheating. Check your antifreeze-level ASAP. Replace all your hoses before jumping into the replacing your water pump because it might just be a frozen/torn radiator hose.
Overheating
.
Poor heater output (could be a plugged heater core however)
.
Pump is leaking (will go on the pulley and get spun all over the hood and hoses)
.
Pump is leaking, and just leaving a trail that runs down the engine
.
Pump makes noise....grinding type sound
.
With the belt removed....the Pump pulley wiggles in all directions
.
.
.
.
9 times out of 10
It will wiggle and make noise
.
If ya keep driving it....then it starts to leak
.
.
The 1 out of 10.... it just leaks
No wiggle or noise
So no gaskets?
Just O-rings on it. No gaskets.
No gasket from thermostat housing to water pump really?
@@bigkev4385 there are no “paper” type gaskets. Just O Rings.
Do you kno what part number the o rings are or where i could find them
@@bigkev4385 if you are doing the water pump, the new o rings come with majority of brands.
Hi there, how do we get the fan clutch off on the way into the water pump, we have a 2009 F150 / 5.4 L
Should have a big nut
And the pulley should have 2 or 4 little holes in it
.
Ya get a spanner wrench (a C with 2 pins that fit in the holes)
.
Put the big wrench on the big nut
And smack it with a hammer
.
.
Some come off easy
Some come off like a pain in the butt
.
And some are reverse thread
.
.
.
When ya put it back on....just get it about 4 turns away from hand tight
.
Then start the motor
.
It will spin itself right on, and to the correct torque
.
.
And you can always tighten it by hand if you are worried
Great video.
Anyone know where to get the heater outlet tube o-ring 3:26?
Ford dealer most likely
.
Should have came with your pump
But some brands don't give ya all the gaskets / o rings
@@kainhall
Thanks. I ended up going to my local dealer. He had the part number in stock AC3Z-8527-A. This is just the o-ring which retails at $19 vs $29 for a new outlet tube with the o-ring on it. My dealer gave me a discount so cost me $12 for just the o-ring.
Not for a 2011 ecoboost
howe do i knowe of mine ford have a 3 or 4 bolt waterpump
You have to look at it. There’s no other indication to my understanding. You might have to take your intake off first like I did, but this will give you the best and easiest view angle. Unless you look from underneath or from a tight angle from the battery side.
Your description says 2017 but the tech says 2014...
It works on more than 1 year
.
I'm working on a 2014....and the pump pulley only has 3 bolts
.
But other than that, it's the exact same job
.
.
.
Ford kept the 5.0 pretty much the same for 8 or 9 years
Too bad it wasn’t an eco boost
Great video. I need the pulley for 2011 Ford Expedition 8 cylinder. Anyone knows the part #? Thanks.
This isn't for a 2009.
You are correct. 5.4 correct?
Replace water pump and truck with a Chevy...there, easy repair.
Y’all have too much time on your hands. Be a man spend the rest of your life and money wrenching away on your Ford 🤣🤣😭
Lol my stepdad's company Duramax just blew up at 140k miles. But sure, keep acting like for issues don't exist for all brands
Follow the 10 commandments Christians and ask for forgiveness and repent from your sins!!
Gaaaay