Yea, my first build I set a $1500 budget but by the end the system ended up costing $2100 , I went with 32 GB Ram instead of 16 & so forth, but I like the system I now have.
Same I had a $1500 I think I spent well over $2400. My first ever build so I had to get all the other non negotiables that I didn't account for. Keyboard, mouse... MONITOR!! LOL. Plus I couldn't get a 3080 so I've been spending my money on RGB. I'm well past $2700 now.... I need my 3080 already 😭😭😭😭
Number one tip that I learned is to watch a ton of videos before even buying a single piece of hardware, that way we don't have to send it back and wait even longer for the right parts.
Not a seasoned PC builder and you've mentioned this a few times before, Jay, but... turning on the RAM XMP thingy in the BIOS is pretty easy to overlook...
pro tip: don’t forget to plug in the cable for the power button edit: yes, i made this mistake & spent 6 hours trying to diagnose something that wasn’t broken until i actually read the manual and realized what was missing.
Gigabyte has those plastic headers in which you plug your case pins (LED/reset/pwr) and then stick that single block in the main board. Really nice and incredible simple system. Would have been nice if manufacturers had those in the '90s when I was building lots of PCs when working in a computer store. Those silly pins are still present in the current cases, but without such a simple plastic header you keep on messing with those tiny pin headers.
@@TD-er I just upgraded my PC, but kept my Dell XPS 8700 case. Obviously Dell's and MSI's front panel pinout doesn't match so I bought a connector kit, depinned the Dell connector and reoriented them in the new connector to match MSI's pins. Super clean and no need to mess with those tiny, individual connectors anymore. Did the same thing with the audio connector, Dell used a bright yellow connector and I replaced it with a black one. Actually, now that I think about it, I had to do something similar with my AIO's USB connector. My case has USBs on top and a card reader on the front which took up both USB 2.0 headers on the mobo. Luckily the card reader and the AIO only used one row of pins each, so I was able to combine them into one connector.
One random tip for total first timers is to actually practice with your old system if its next destination is trash can anyways. You can pull things off, practice putting them back in, see how everything works, what goes where, how much pressure you need to apply and where you might break or mess something up. It doesn't matter in an old PC that was going to the trash anyways and you'll feel more comfortable handling your new shiny PC parts.
This is brilliant! Makes total sense too. In almost anything we learn to do, practice really helps. It's an excellent idea to practice building on a computer that you are planning to donate or trash. Would really be a great idea for trying to seat a processor for the first time as that can be one of the hardest things to do given how delicate they are. I took classes at a community college on computer hardware, networking, etc. when I was getting ready to apply for IT jobs at computer stores. They had many systems of all sorts of configurations in the lab for us to practice on. The only thing that gets you over the shakes of 'omg I don't wanna break it' is to practice actually doing it.
this is how i learned to build them as a kid. for some reason there was no end to ancient pcs available to me, and i took them apart and figured out how to make all kinds of frankenstein machines
Best advice. Even more, find your nearest etech recycling place and or family and friends with old computers lying around grab all kind sof bits and pieces.... and build, build build, problem solve and get stuff working... Then build your expensive gaming pc ;)
My old computer pentium mmx 200 mhz overclocked to 250 mhz with 83 mhz max bus speed which wasn’t in the asus manual. (Had to completely remove jumper to get that speed ) found the magic of thermal paste. Only way to get 50 mhz more out of it haha good old days. Learned a lot with my first computer.
I managed to avoid all the common issues in my first build because I read all the manuals first, but I will say that the issue I DID have was caused by following the instructions TOO closely. My motherboard had two places to plug in the PSU. The manual stated that the second slot was only needed if you overclocked. We’ll I didn’t plan on overclocking, so I only plugged I. The first set of PSU cables, trying to have as few cables as possible. Once O turned it on… nothing. No post, no beeps, no fans. All I got was a debug led that said CPU. I thought for sure it was a bad CPU, so I returned the chip and bought another one. Still didn’t fox it. It took my brother telling me that sometimes you need that overclock power, even if you aren’t overclocking. I plugged in those cables, and BOOM, it’s worked perfectly ever since.
Old upload I know, but now that I have 5 builds under my belt I actually have something to contribute: Break your build in to stages, and take 5 - 10 min breaks between stages. It relieves some of the newb-jitters, and allows for a fresh state of mind at the beginning of each stage which will help you avoid stupid mistakes.
@@brandonfulater7039 Can't speak for Charlie but the stages I use are: 1. Get it all unpacked and organized 2. populate the motherboard (CPU, RAM, M.2) 3. (optional, only for modular PSU) check which cables you will need and put the rest aside to avoid confusion 4. install the motherboard + CPU cooler 5. Install the GPU and PSU and connect all the cables between components and the PSU 6. Check your manuals to double check you did all the steps correct and check it's all connected (The power button and such can use very tiny cables and may get loose if you were a bit clumsy within the case) 7. Close it and try to boot it and if it does in fact boot, check all the bios settings are as you wish, restart and see if it still boots. and finally 8. if it does in fact boot, great, shut it down, take out the power cable and turn the PSU off, open up the case and cable manage to the best of your ability, this helps airflow, the aesthetics and you really shouldn't do this before you know the pc works. Few things suck more than having to undo a bunch of painstaking cable management because something is wrong. None of these stages should take more than 10 minutes, with 5 minutes breaks in between each phase takes a max of 15 minutes for a total build time of 2 hours, at most. When you get more experienced you can blend phases together (1-3 as 'outside of the case', 4-6 as 'inside the case' and 7+8 as 'finishing up') and do them in 15 minutes with 5 minute breaks that is still only a 1 hour build. Of course if you get even more experienced you can fairly safely do 1-7 in 20 minutes and spend probably no more than 10 minutes on step 8. But it all depends on what you're comfortable with, if you only do it once every few years some parts you remember and can speed through, others you've forgotten. There is no set time in which you should get it done. I personally don't build a lot of them, but enough that I'm most comfortable with the middle level 1 hour method. Hope this helped either you or anybody else that my come across this comment.
My Tip: You don't have to build your whole PC in one go! Don't keep building if you're getting really tired or you will have less fun and be more prone to mistakes and frustration.
@@reposter6434 Took me 6 the first time, 3 to put it together and 3 to "cable manage". 2nd build (just a case and cooling upgrade) took me even longer but it looks MUCH nicer, but definitely tons of times where I got frustrated, especially trying to top mount a push/pull radiator
@@daniellapointe6658 Part I struggled with the most is actually placing the motherboard in, it just didn't seem to fit and I spent at least 30mins trying to fit it into the case. Second most painful part... was trying to get picture on my monitor, nothing was showing on screen and spent a hour or two looking on the internet for hours, wasn't until I asked a friend and he told me what was up... turns out I put the DPI cable into the motherboard slot XD other than that though it all worked out well.
A Question if you dont mind: Wouldn't it be better to match how many intake vs. exhaust fans you have or have 1-2 more intake vs exhaust? My thinking: More intake then exhaust: slightly higher pressure inside the case -> air will get out whatever way provides least resistance More exhaust then intake: slightly lower pressure inside the case -> air will try to get in from places other then the installed fans which might result in higher dust buildup.
@@pix_p you want the airflow to follow a specific path so the idea of having airflow following whatever way out is not efficient for cooling. Pc casing got a often intake grills far from components so it's better to suck fresh air from these locations and drive it to the hot spots with extracting fans so you're sure that hot air is going out quickly without flowing around other hot areas which could contribute to additional heating.
@@Senseimatty81 Sorry I should have been more clear with my Question. Yes you are right, making the Air follow a nice Path is optimal (for Example front in and back out), but what I am trying to figure out is that wouldn't it be better to have let's say 3 intake Fans at the front and only 2 exhaust at the rear? That way you can be sure that all Air sucked into the Case will ONLY be coming from the front Fans which optimally would have a Filter of some sort in front of them. When using 2 Intake Fans and 3 Exhaust Fans, the Case might have a slightly lower pressure inside which would result in Air entering the Case from other (non-Filtered) Openings.
@@pix_p For heat exchange is better more air out because the extraction fans are located close to the components so you are sure that the hot air will not stay inside but it will leave asap. More air in might become hot (or not contributing to heat exchange) and remains inside longer. Dust will enter in the case anyway, the filters are not so effective as they say, otherwise you would need much more powerful fans to blow through them. I suggest to clean the inside of the pc with a small vacuum cleaner or blowing with a compressor time to time.
My tip: 0. Check the manual first always before you start/buy any parts. 1. Similar to the previous, check if the RAM you are gonna buy is tested by the MB company. The MB company will put the part number they have tested on its web. 2. Don't forget to consider the static. So using an anti-static mat can help. 3. Keep the CPU socket protector, and put it back when you don't have a CPU on it. 4. When installing AIO, make sure the fan side pipe is hight than the CPU side pipe because it may contain some air inside the pipe. 5. Imaging how heat flow in your PC can help you to avoid some silly mistakes.
A good tip I have is to open the boxes for the parts as you go, don't open everything all at once especially if its your first time building a pc, start with the motherboard, then open cpu and work on installing it as soon as you take it out of the box, parts are less likely to get damaged when they are in the box and you are far less likely to misplace components under a mess of packaging. Also once you take your motherboard out of its box, put all of the warranty cards and manuals for the other parts into your motherboard box when you are done and keep the box. That one about the motherboard box has saved me on more than one occasion. It can also be a good idea to keep all of the boxes for all the components for at least a few months until you are sure they are all working correctly and none of them need to be returned as a malfunctioning part. And as a side note, don't forget a usb with the windows install tool if you are going with Windows OS, and have a spare device with internet on hand just incase you get stuck with a step and need to go and do some googling to work out what you are meant to do next if your user manuals aren't helping with that. The motherboard manuals can sometimes be poorly worded so it's good to be able to watch a UA-cam video where someone explains it as they show it visually.
I want to give this all my thumbs up. Organization is KEY. 1st time or 100th time. 1st time organization means you can do it right. 100th time organization makes it faster. I just helped with a PC build and did some steps multiple times because parts were dumped on the table and I would find stuff and go "ooooh that's what we needed" or "what is this screw even for?" Not a good idea when it's your first time.
I just started getting into pc and you are 100 percent right. While working on vehicles or your house it's a lot easier and sometimes faster to just clean the mess afterwards. PC is a beast of its own. I didn't stay organized and it cost me like 3-4 hours of build time.
Very good point. I myself have been doing it like this all the time and it helps a lot - both organising the parts during the installation, and keeping the boxes. Especially keeping all the boxes - not just the papers for possible future reference. I just recently assembled a new rig for myself from scratch after two decades of working with laptops only (just building a computer for someone else every now and then), and managed to stack all the boxes inside the one big box from the case, so they all together only take as much space in my basement as a single computer case. Moreover, many components come with surplus parts intended for different types of installation/pairing component so you end up not using them, but it is good to keep them anyway, and here's where the original box comes handy. And, in case of replacing one or two components in the future, the boxes are also useful when selling the original components second hand - every second hand buyer will appreciate the original package with all the paperwork and spare/unused parts included :)
I find that the anti static bag the MB comes in quite usefull. While actualy building I usualy place the MB on the bag. During a break I will depending on how much extra clearance the bag has either put the MB back in the bag or just cover the MB with the bag.
Exactly, I haven't started yet but that's what I plan. Got the idea from all the different lego sets I used to put together in one sitting lmao. So many parts everywhere you have a tough time keeping track
Years ago, I decided to build my first computer. Since I really knew very little about doing this, I went to a bookstore. In the "how to do" section, I came across a manual entitled, "How to build a computer and not make mistakes." The author was JayzTwoCents. What a crazy name, I thought. But, I guessed that he must know more about this than me, and I bought it.
I got *Upgrading and Repairing PCs by Scott Mueller,* back in 1990 or so. He still seems to update it, it's up to the 23rd edition or something like that.
To add to that, make sure none of the ports are blocked by the little metal tabs around some of the ports. Have had to pull a mobo more than once because a USB port was partially blocked by a little tab from the io shield.
Great video, I've made a few milestones because I had to watch more than once 1:00 motherboard assembling suggestions (processor, m2 ssd) 3:56 dram installation (best usage of channels) 6:20 cpu cooler 9:14 air flow, fans 12:20 water cooler radiators air flow 14:29 graphics card, sizes, dimensions 17:18 power cables
@@3Black.1Red Please tell me I have a motherboard Dual Channel on MSI Pro z590 and I started from inside near the cpu i mean the second slot ...and for the second Dimm I enter it to the outer slot is this correct? Thank you very much in advance.
Tip: Just do it. Don't be scared. There are plenty of resources online if you get stuck or something isn't working. After you complete your first build, you'll never want to go back to store bought.
Basically what I did. Always wanted a good pc but didn't want a pre-built. Budgeted, bought the parts, watched a few videos on here and did it. Building the pc itself is the easy part, it's actually getting it to run stable once you get the OS installed that's a fucking pain in the ass. Spent two weeks after building it troubleshooting driver problems before figuring out that the auto overclock programs it came with was causing it to BSOD along with the 5700XT that I bought. After replacing the Wraith Prism cooler with a Noctua DH15 same thing, constant BSODs. Had to reseat CPU, RAM, and the GPU along with reapplying thermal paste and resetting the OS. Haven't had an issue since, and that was after panic buying new RAM for it. Only advice I have is get familiar with Event Viewer and Command Prompt
@@vivvy_0 It means Blue Screen of Death. It's what shows whenever your computer crashes, or at least should show. It's also the most contrarian thing I've ever seen, equal parts valuable and absolutely useless.
You need to watch yourself though. You start out saying to yourself, "I'll just try it this one time." Then your friend is tempting you to try it again with him, and your think, "What could it hurt?" Before you know it, you're hooked and you start dealing PCs on EBay, just to support your habit, all the while thinking, "I can quit anytime I want to." But you can't, you start staying home instead of going out, you lose your girlfriend, you become a hermit churning out gamers over and over until finally you become a UA-camr. I've seen it before.
A year ago, I rebuilt my Msi laptop into a beast for what it is. Now I'm confident in building my first desktop. I'm well inclined technically, but never before with computers. I learned everything I've done online in forums and YT.
Thank you for this refresher. I've build rigs in the past but recently a friend of mine has asked me to build one for him. This video was very helpful to bring me up to speed with the issues around larger RAM chips, CPU heat sinks, graphics cards and the power requirements, etc... Thank you!
@@Bewwy_overload Are you using Slim Fans ? Normal Fan height is 25mm, and there are Slim Fans with 12-15mm. When the Intake of the Fan is Crowded a Slim Fan will improve Performance. The extra 10mm allows the Blades of the Fan to scoop air better. Had a Thermaltake Case which needed Slim Fans for the top, normal fans simply didn't performed. Switched to slims and suddenly performance.
@@Elkarlo77 yeah it was just I had a 10in case and it had no room inside, I bought a new case a few weeks ago and it's much bigger. I can fix exactly what I need now. TNX for trying to help though!
Computer fans spin toward the sharpest point. Think of them as arrows pointing the direction of fan spin. Fan blades are curved. If it looks like an upside-down spoon, the air is blown away from you. If the spoon is upside right, it blow toward you.
haha... my display properties only has 50, 59, and 60 as options, but 60 was already selected. I have a 9 year old monitor and a 6 year old monitor. Upgrading my PC soon(TM) and I'm eyeing a 34 inch curved widescreen with 100hz, ooo baby.
I'vee been following you for a while, but after watching this video - I have to say it: Congrats for all the great material! Very clear, concise, no-BS information, crystal clear. You sir, are a blessing to the PC master race building community!
Built my first PC yesterday, I had been planning it for two years. It took me five hours to build it but I'm happy with how it turned out, I only broke one small cable too! I had watched so much tech content on here that I was able to complete it without any of these mistakes. Thank you to you guys and all the other tech channels for sharing great advice and making me excited about technology!
@@jm9371 Yeah, somehow managed to get a 5600x for retail price and other components were regular price too. Just waiting on MSI Ventus 3080 which I pre-ordered at normal price so I'm currently using an old GPU from a prebuild. Budget was £1500 and I went couple pounds over. Super happy with it!
Congrats! Just finished my build also... 5600x was retail, Asus 3070 was $50 over retail but I didn’t have any choice if I wanted to play. Very happy with the results
Some people also forget to mount the standoffs in the case before installing the mainboard (if they aren't pre-installed). That often causes a short circuit on the backside of the motherboard and can basically destroy it.
@@mvhdsk1122 yep was looking for this comment. First build long long time ago installed all the standoffs that came with mobo and ended up shorting my mobo because it didn’t line up with all the same standoffs.
pro tip: Rule of thumb, screw your air/liquid coolers in using a "x" pattern. This seems to always work for me ensuring equal distribution of pressure. not all coolers have a multiple screw points so tighten till snug do not over tighten some coolers have a hard stop to prevent this but just keep it in mind
Generally, if you have four screws in a rectangle to screw in, always do it with a x-pattern. It distributes stress most evenly and thus makes it easier to align the holes for the screws.
@@Ravio_Lee You should do this with any bolt pattern unless specified otherwise. Like the 5 or 6 lug nuts on your car's wheels. It is also important to remember to not fully tighten on the first go of each fastener, get them snug, then go back and tighten completely following the same pattern.
@@schwig44 yea i learned that the hard way I broke a stud on a brand new car lol the nut was still loose when I tightened it and air guns are not forgiving on max speed, won't make that mistake again
I did this at the start of the month. Thankfully I was going to show a friend where the SSD was located, so I removed the shield and put it aside, it was then I notice the peel.
Wait really. The group I was in told me to leave it off (because it wouldn't fit no matter what). 3-4 months i think now and no issues but that doesn't mean anything.
You also might need to remove or relocate one or more m.2 standoffs, or else they will be pressing into the back of the SSD, making it bend, break or short circuit.
Pro tip: On modular PSUs never ever use spare power cables from different brands of PSU, these are not standardised and each manufacturer uses different specs for the cables, the connectors may be identical but the cables aren't.
@@floodlitworld The first tip in the video is to build everything you can on the motherboard. They don't even get into PSUs until about 17 minutes in and then he says to not use the same cable for multiple plugs
Pro Tip: If upgrading your PSU do not be lazy and reuse your old wires. You will fry your motherboard and/or hard drives. Take the old power cords out and put in the new ones that came with your new PSU. Each PSU manufacturer and even models are wired differently on the PSU side.
@@pavelsoloway3675 Custom extension cables are 99% of the time universal since they just "extend" the existing cable and don't do anything themselves. Although the current they can handle can vary, so be cautious which brand you're buying (cheap chinese extenders may not be the smartest choice) Custom PSU cables on the other hand are not universal. CableMod for example has different cables for different PSU's and you have to select your PSU to ensure you get the right cables.
My tip: When installing the CPU cooler, avoid fully tightening the first bolt and then the others in sequence. This may result in improper placement and uneven distribution of thermal paste between the CPU and the cooler plate. Instead, tighten the bolts gradually and in alternating turns, one at a time.
The mistake I see thr most has to be "pulling the cpu off with the cooler" because the paste hardens. It really needs to be in every cooler manual to tell you to stress test you cpu before you attempt to remove the cooler and to TWIST before you pull
yes yes! I've done that before...scared the hell out of me lol...luckily everything was ok but still.......deff make sure its warmed up and twist before rocking or pulling!!!
Tip for newbies: keep the component boxes and the contents of them in the event a part goes bad, that way you can RMA the component with the least amount of hassle.
This is smack-on thanks, the boxes often have the serial numbers, that you will need for warranty registration. Try getting the serial number off a CPU or M.2 after it is mounted under a cooling solution especially a water cooler.
@@Bruh-403 keep the boxes the parts come in. If they’re broke when you receive em or they break on you within warranty, use the original box to send the part back to the manufacturer.
Thank you!!! I've been working on my first build over the last few months after waiting for parts, and your videos have helped me through the whole process. I'm super grateful! I was stressed working with a 4090 and a 7950X for my first build, and your videos helped me not make any detrimental mistakes. I appreciate what you do!
Also, just to be safe, NEVER mix the cables from different PSUs. I burned two SSD drives because I used a couple of spare cables from a dead, stronger PSU. Turns out those cables were eager to spread death. I remember clearly me turning on the computer, then smelling melted plastic, seeing smoke come out, and yelling "OOH, NOOOO!".
@@KurtisQu Displaying my ignorance about circuits. Jay reminded us that it’s the load that draws the power and since the load ( the SSD) doesn’t change just because you change a cable, why should the cable make any difference? Obviously, I gotta rethink that. Ignore my remark.
When installing GFX or other cards....ALWAYS cut power AND after unplugging (or flipping the PS switch) hit the power button on the PC. This will drain all power from the MoBo and capacitors. It's very easy to touch the MoBo with the metal brackets and short something on the MoBo potentially frying your board. It's rare but it's worth the extra precaution. I learned this one the hard way.
Great Tip. Had a similar situation on the first generation iMac (the one with exposed power supply). The iMac was not plugged in but the capacitor on the power supply had a charge and it gave me quite a shock.
Just to throw in a funny anecdote, sometimes crazy stuff happens and you're sure you've shorted stuff out and it's somehow perfectly fine! Back when I was much younger, I had a new PC that someone built for me that always overheated. I "solved" this issue by leaving the case side off and sitting a large fan blowing air into the case next to it. One of the situations I had it set up in, I had a fan that was definitely not very general populace friendly, some industrial thing of some sort I imagine. Anyways, its power cord had a little metal tab tab/copper sleeve connection thing; if you work with automotive or industrial electronics you probably know what I'm talking about. Anyways, I managed to pull them off their tabs one day and they contacted the PC case. Turned the PC off instantly, blew the fuse a few seconds later, and welded the metal sleeves on the ends of the wires to the case. lol. I was SURE that computer was done, but it somehow still worked just fine after that.
@@gerard4441 Then twist three times while whistling Dixie? Sure, that's the correct order, but if you don't know that, you probably shouldn't be inside a PC... Lol That said, I have seen people with decent knowledge work in a PC after turning it off without draining the caps, and thats the biggest take-away here.
One thing I would add is static electricity from your body can damage components. A few dollar wrist grounding strap could save you from frying something. I've only built 2 computers, but have done a fair bit of electrical work and a little electronics. I also wouldn't put a motherboard down on a table surface, I believe I used the anti-static packaging. Don't touch solder joints with your hands, easy enough to do and there's no upside to doing so. Don't wear socks on carpet while building, that can increase the chance of static electricity discharging into a component.
@@nssandhu4401 I would assume so, but don't take my word for it. :) You could also just buy one flexible copper wire the length you need to ground to something, and make a section of bare wire loop around your hand/leg with good skin contact.
I have a motherboard that only uses 6 of the ATX standoffs, and as a result, the case it's in has three exposed standoffs (I had transfer cases at some point, so I didn't think about this at the time, won't surprise me if the old case was the same way).
6:15 I literally had a no post scenario that had me pulling my hair out last night. Every time I set the memory for DOCP it would crash on reboot and send me back to the BIOS. Apparently putting your RAM in A1 B1 and enabling DOCP = crashes. Also you video was a few hours too late as I fixed it this morning by RTFM and putting them in A2 B2
@@frickzjee Cheaping out on the case seems like a good option to me. Personally I don't give a crap about what the system looks like since I suspend it under my desk so I don't have to see it at all. And I usually only build in it once, I rarely add anything to a system once it is built. So for me it makes perfect sense to not spend a lot of money on a case to fix a five minute inconvenience. Just giving a different viewpoint :)
Tip for the ones who are building a custom loop for the first time: Think about where you want to drain your loop if you need to service it beforehand! If you are building in a case you will have poor acess to most ports of a watercooling loop. The method I'd recommend is to put a T - junction at the lowest part of the loop (say a pump port or in the middle of a pipe). Then add a ball valve on one of the T - junction ports. When you want to drain the loop you can simply attatch a tube to the valve and easily empty the liquid into a proper container.
1. While considering the Graphics Card height also consider the PCI-e Power Cable overhang, especially with the new 40-series GPUs so that you don't pinch or bend the wires in any damaging way.... 2. If possible test a fully built system before putting it in the Case to save the trouble of disassembling everything in case something goes wrong "pun intended ;)" 3. Same as 2, test the fans and RGB before mounting....
@@PoleTooke you can easily test 2, and 3 on the motherboard box you use to plug in the essential components before putting it in the case....you may need to reapply thermal paste again if you remove the cooler to put the Mobo into the case so be aware of that, although it shouldn't be that big of a deal with Air Coolers For 1, you might need to see a few case reviews before buying a cabinet....seeing the GPU sizes nowadays I'd suggest going for the largest case you can physically handle on your table for the safest bet....if you're going for ITX builds make sure to do intensive research on the compatible components and build guides to figure out any potential shortfalls
It would be helpful to have a short video of what to expect after you finish the physical build. For example installing the new OS, downloading new drivers, and common errors that arise (setting motherboard to Windows 11 settings, etc).
Jayztwocents already has an older, but still very helpful video on that titled: "Guide: What to do AFTER building your computer..." Just do a quick UA-cam search to find it. Cheers
Yes, being a hoarder for cables and adapters has saved me heaps on my current build and on my last. Especially if you’re not working with high end stuff.
@@punkizm I had been collecting parts, cabales, etc. since 1983. About 8 years ago I decided it was time to get rid of that which hasn't been used in 20 years or more. Well about 90% went unnoticed, but that darn 10% came a knocking one day when I needed something for my Pentium Overdrive system I decided to take out of the closet. Live and learn.
I bought one desktop computer back in the 1980s. Started upgrading it. After a while I looked around and realized that all I needed was a case, monitor, keyboard and mouse and I could have a second computer. Lather, rinse, repeat for the next 30 years. I did buy my wife a desktop computer about 5-10 years ago when she insisted (although she mostly uses her phone and ipad now,) but most of the computers my kids used were upgrades.
This is by far the most informative video I've found about building a PC and it's not even meant to be about actually building a PC but not making mistakes when you do. Thank you.
17:18 I didn't know this was an issue until I watched this, and of course for my two PC builds I had gone and done the one-cable jump-over thing to the second connector of my GPUs (RTX3070Ti). But I couldn't rest knowing that the power config for each GPU wasn't optimal, so last night, in the wee small hours -- and entirely on the strength of this video nagging me at the back of my mind -- I had to add the other cable to each of my PC builds. So thanks to JayzTwoCents I'll now be able to sleep at night🙂 I've just checked the wattage for the RTX3070Ti, and it draws 290W, so that's 65W more than the 225W supplied by the single cable (when within its max supply rating) plus the PCIe. So I'm sure I did the right thing, even though it probably isn't something a lot of folks would worry about. Better to be safe and max out the lifespan of my PC's components.
Yo dawg, I feel ya. I always like to make sure my PC is runnin' at its optimal performance. You did the right thing by adding that extra cable. Ain't nothin' worse than havin' your PC not runnin' at its best. Keep on keepin' on, my man.
Think about undervolting. I got my 3070TI undervolted to pull 220W on max load without any performance hit, and that's pretty conservative undervolt. Igor's lab did an undervolt on a 3070TI if you want to read that article. Though I still avoided the daisy chain :) My baby's getting everything.
You did the right thing. This is something I may have to correct on a quite old build that I did with an RTX 1070. I can't remember if it has only one power connector, or two, however....
Obviously, this is assuming your power supply is modular, but "If" the daisy-chain is a bit of an eye-sore for you then you can flip the cable around so there isn't a cable dangling in your case. You still only plug one cable into each slot of course, but the chain will be close to your power supply instead of right where your GPU is. That way your GPU will look like it has a single cable connection and it's much cleaner/easier to manage. I did have an older PSU where the cables weren't the same but nowadays pretty much every modular PSU I own I just flip them for the nice clean look.
It's worth nothing however that despite the 150W 'spec', many PSU manufacturers allow for more power. Take a look at the Corsair 12VHPWR cable, it uses only 2x PCIe sockets, yet it can provide up to 600W to a 4090.
Motherboard: Before you install the components on the MB, dry-fit it in the case first to see if it all lines up correctly, stand-offs are in place and no case or MB defects. In fact it's a good idea to dry-fit as many components as you can. Better safe than sorry! Remember the old adage; Always measure twice and cut once.
Build videos like this should emphasize SAVE YOUR COMPONENTS PACKAGING. You’re going to upgrade your PC, and selling older components is viable and doing so in original packaging is so helpful for you and the buyer. Suggestion is to have some sort of storage container where you keep boxes, cables etc.
I re-use the box my case come in to store all the other components boxes. They are usually large enough to fit everyting, and you keep track of everything you put into that specific build in one place.
Also save the packaging just in case you need to RMA something for repair or replacement. Check the manufacturer warranty and at least keep it for that long.
The thing that scared me the most when I first tried it was the amount of force you need to apply on that lever when installing intel cpus. It feels... wrong
You tube helps a lot. I'm a visual learner, so watching others do it first helps a lot. If you got a question then UA-cam has 1000 videos to answer you
THANK YOU!!!!!!!!!! I subscribed as soon as you said about not using the split cables. A buddy of mine says its no different blah blah blah nice to see someone else agrees with me lol. I've always told him if it was that simple as running the splitter why wouldn't the split not be done internally? Why would they put on 2 ports if all the power can come from one power source
Prep your area, prep your area and, yes, prep your area. Things people don't think about, whether it's building in stages, or where they are going to work on their build, is do I have an ESD mat, ESD wrist strap or other items that can help me protect my PC components. It does not take much for static discharge to ruin a CPU, BIOS chip or some other controller on your motherboard or GPU. Also, have a way to organize screws and some people don't think about this but take pictures during your build so if you run into problems you have something to reference. Excellent video for beginners!!
Would simply touching a radiator and/or putting on a pair of rubber gloves be sufficient? In the past I got away with grounding myself on a radiator immediately before touching anything in the case during building.
@DGneoseeker1 Rubber gloves are not meant to be a way for preventing static discharge. Depending on the material the gloves could increase the chance of ESD. The best option, on a budget, is to have an ESD wrist strap that is attached to the bare metal chassis or some other metal grounding point.
@@g-wolf9445 The part I don't quite understand about this is that the metal chassis in itself is going to be sitting on a non-conductive table so where is the charge grounding to?
@DGneoseeker1 If you are serious about having a true ESD safe configuration buy ESD matting for the work surface, buy and install an ESD continuous monitoring station to plug your ESD wrist strap into and also have a humidity monitor for the room you are working in. That's a true ESD safe setup. If you have a way to tie the PC chassis into an earth ground and then tie your ESD wrist strap into the chassis that will work too.
@@DGneoseeker1yup just don’t put your pc together on carpet and you’ll be fine I’ve built 100s of pcs and never had a issue. Never used a wrist strap or even took any precautions other than not building on carpet
Yeah same, for me maybe been 18 years. In fact almost forgot about the dual channel RAM mistake as back then usually boards had only two slots, so as long as you split your RAM you were good. So was a good reminder.
I've built a couple gaming pc's now and still find this video helpful as a reminder before starting or during. In fact yesterday i made the mistake of the radiator being to large for my case and my massive gpu. I was less than a half inch from it fitting inside the case. Could not fit the radiator on the top either due to ram clearance. my plan is to get a smaller radiator and see what happens. Fingers crossed!
Been building and repairing desktop and server systems for over 25yrs. My tips would be, Don't ever force anything like plugs etc. Install the motherboard in the case with the case laid down on the side, it's way easier. Keep track of all screws and don't over tighten (especially mobo standoffs lol, or cooler retention plate screws). Keep work area clear and work logically. Don't wear thick long sleeved clothing, like the jumper your nanna got you for christmas :), Always hold an AMD cpu by the edges of the pcb, the pins are extremly fragile. Always read the mobo manual for cpu installation, so you get the right orientation. Never place components directly on carpet, carpet is as conductive as your local substation (esp if your walking around the room in socks, the static generation from such is horribly supprizing) hence a further tip of keep all components in their ESD bags until your ready to actually install them. Further to what Jay says here about mounting and air cooler before mobo mounting in the case, some AIOs and water block backplates and retention standoffs can also be pre mounted to the mobo. Check your mobo standoffs before trying to mount the mobo in the case. Check all plugs and have a look around before closing the case and powering up. First time builders don't have to stress too much with todays modern parts, as most of it is fairly easy to work out and if not and you do find something that's making you question life, there are quite a few great videos right here on UA-cam to help you out by great and experienced people like Jay :) Lastly don't rush to build your pc, as with most things speed comes from experience
Please help I recently built a PC and none of my fans are spinning, but all the fans are connected properly. There is no display to the monitor, and I double, triple checked that everything was connected in its proper place. Please help maybe Im missing out something that I didnt think of. My motherboard says its Ryzen 5000 ready and my cpu is 5900x, so its not a BIOS issue. I cant think of any other reason of what may be causing the issue. Sorry for spamming ur comment, im just really desperate for help lol :)
@@drearyplane8259 yeap it is, the motherboard light turns on but nothing else, tho my fans have no rgb. I guess i should turn to reddit. Thanks thoo :)
a lot of cases come with motherboard stand offs pre-installed for many form factors, be careful to not leave 1 unused under the board in the wrong place.
This one is important, before you start: If you got electric shocks when using a door handle, try to find out what caused your static charge. Like... Your chair. If you have something that causes static charge, get rid of it. You don't want to kill your electronics by touching it!
@@nealtse9125 Clipping to a non grounded metal thing will do nothing to discharge you. You need a proper ground, like a power supply plugged into the wall.
I've always wondered how much power a typical static shock pulls, it must be a pretty significant amount if it can fry electronics. I've been hit with electrical socket power before and sometimes the static shocks I've gotten have felt pretty similar to that.
@@edwhatshisname3562 The issue is not the power. It is that you go over the breaktrhough voltage of a diode and destroy the PN-walls. So you don't need a lot of power, but only the voltage. Don''t ground yourself before touching stuff but be ALWAYS grounded, and make sure the electronics are as well, as they can be charged, too.To The other guy: I know chairs that will recharge you easily again. This will be a simple way to kill electronics, after you got yourself grounded before. We solved that by putting wires over the chair for discharging. xP
@@gerble36 as I understand it you want the same potential as the components. If you are earthed and the components have a slight charge it will discharge through you and can still damage them, at worst (apart from doing nothing) touch the earth connection of the components, at best have an earthed desk
Plugging in HDMI or Display Port cable into Motherboard rather than plugging it into the graphics card (if they have one) - I have seen this a lot recently.
Lol. They're too used to Dell computers with no gpu in the first place. My dad has a Dell Inspiron that still runs Windows 7 and has no gpu(obviously, it's Dell). He would look at me plug hdmi into gpu and think: *What?*
Thank You Jay. It's been 12 years from my last Build and Building in 2023! Nice to have the refresh in all from the Build to the install!!! Doing it out of the case to make sure everything works before it goes into the Case.
Tip 1: Plan your build before you do anything! Then lay out the components on your table in the order you want to assemble them. This will make things go way faster, and helps ensure you don't forget a step. Tip 2: Dry fit large components before screwing them in. I don't know how many times I've checked the manufacturer specifications that say a component should fit, and then I can't make the component fit (usually by a few millimeters). Component fit becomes a huge issue when doing water cooling in small cases. Tip 3: Download the user manuals for all components before buying them. Often times the manuals have better dimension specifications than what is listed on diagrams on their store pages. A recent example was getting a Fractal case that said it could have a 420mm radiator in the top. Under no circumstances would any 420mm radiator fit in the top because of RAM height. The manual said there was 35mm of clearance for RAM with a 420mm rad, but that wasn't listed anywhere on the manufacturer specifications. I could only find one type of RAM that was less than 35mm in height installed, and even then, it was 32mm, leaving 3mm of clearance from the rad, which in reality wasn't enough to get everything installed.
TIP: pay attention to where the notch is when installing memory modules. Make sure the notch aligns with the slots on the MB. If they don’t align pushing them in will damage the memory slots or modules themselves.
Jay is one of few tech tubers to simply say "look at the manual" in regards to memory install. So many say "match the colors" or "skip a slot". Respect
A couple of odd things that I've hit: - double check your chipset and that your motherboard supports your CPU - double check your motherboard supports your ram pin layout - if using multiple GPUs or need multiple SATA ports/m.2 ports, some motherboards disable data ports or m.2 ports, or via versa. Usually motherboards try to share the lanes between them so you need to know what conflicts with what. - when installing GPUs, there's usually an order like there is with ram.
I got an all corsair rgb build with mouse pad, mouse, headset holder, keyboard, ram, 6 fans, aio cooler, an asus mother board and lian li 24 pin/ 8 pin rgb cables. All of them are synced with corsair. 😸😸😸😸
@@zofferz0 never mind *different* brands, I bought a used H700i, realized I need a 2nd exhaust fan, bought an Aer RGB 2, only to find the RGB on that is incompatible with the controller in the case
Oooh yes! The build I had before my current one was from 2013, so the only thing RGB wise was a nzxt hue controller (the OG that fit into the 5.2" bay). So when I build my current setup last October, I was pretty excited about the prospect of having all the rgb things be controllable in the system and even moreso bind them to specific system parameters. At least that was my plan. So you can probably understand my disappointment when I opened RGB Fusion for the first time...
Bend radius: don't stress cables just to be sure you can hide them. Also be sure you don't have loose wiring passing in front of the fan. Especially on top of horizontal fans.
Thanks for the cpu fan push vs pull tip. I just changed the conf from pull to push and instantly saw a drop of temps by ateast 10degrees across all cores. That's amazing! Thank you
Tip: don't go crazy tightening the screws on the first pass, i.e., before you realize where everything needs to go, and in what order. You can always come back to them later.
In response to this tip, always tighten your screws in a cross pattern. This means you tighten one screw only a little snug, then go the screw directly opposite that screw and tighten it snug. The repeat for the other two screws. Gently move from screw to screw in the same pattern until you cannot snug it down any further. You are done tightening, the screws are at the optimum tightness and the fan or PS or whatever, is fully flush to your system.
My biggest tip is to oversize your case if you can. It plays into a lot of your points about sizing components and it’s SUPER important. Size limitations for things like dorms or small desks are dealbreakers and you gotta be VERY aware of form factor and how your components are sized if you can’t go with a big tower. If you can though, definitely opt for an ATX mid or full tower if you can. Micro ATX with the new Gen Nvidia cards is like trying to squeeze a train through a bank drive thru.
@@kyryloslav 100%; I Bought an ATX mid like a decade ago and it’s been able to comfortably house every upgrade in that time. All it takes is some care to keep it clear of dust and it’s been a reliable case all that time.
Beginner tip you missed out: Switch on the goddamn power supply switch before trying to boot or you'll end up having a heart attack when it won't boot xd
@@crissto8591 I had a panicked friend call me to tell me the new computer he build was dead and he needed help. I went over, looked at it, plugged it into the wall socket and it worked fine. 😂
21:00 Make sure that you're using the right type of cable too. My 144Hz monitor would give me only 60Hz because I was using a HDMI cable instead of a DisplayPort cable.
@@TheDeathClawOmlet does depend on monitor but more specifically the HDMI port generation. HDMI 2.0 can do 1440p 120hz and 4k 60hz. But not all monitors support it and might not have freesync/gsync over HDMI.
Bought my current monitor from a guy who said it was 144hz, and I realized after a few months of using it that it was 60hz. I tried HDMI and DisplayPort, never went past 60hz. Was thinking of selling it to buy a 144hz monitor, so I looked up the model. It said 144hz could only be accessed with a DVI-D cable. So confusing how 144hz is limited to certain cable types
The scariest part is when you have your PC built by a store and THEY forget to remove the plastic from the CPU cooler, but you can't do anything about it because you'll void warranty if you remove the cooler, so you have to take it back to the store, surrender your system to them for 45 days, then have them tell you nothing's wrong.
If you are installing a larger video card make sure to use the included support bracket if supplied, if no bracket, you may need an aftermarket kick stand that screws up and down to take stress off of the PCIE slot.
But don't overtighten.. and especially with cpu coolers.. screw in a diagonal pattern Spring loaded screws are a god send for helping you not over tighten. You shouldn't need to struggle.. screw until you need to put extra pressure to turn and then leave it.
Even as a veteran PC builder, I’ll say this, if you finished building, plug it all in, and hit the power button but it didn’t power up, don’t go freaking out right away, make sure to check that power switch on the back of the PSU, I’ve done it multiple times and always forget to check it lol
@@Celphirio I've had one where it posted good, but monitors showed nothing, restarted and shut down multiple times, turns out I forgot the cables to the gpu 😅
I feel like these people are the reason tech support always asks “Did you try turning it off and on again”. It’s always the simple things people seem to overlook.
@@RuneScapeGamer97 I mean, I look at every little thing once I forget a simple step, but don't worry all the complicated stuff is properly done before flipping the switch back
06:33 that is exactly what I did on my first build ever. Everything went smooth and temperatures actually looked pretty ok (around 45 C idle), but when I started cinebench for the first time it went to 95 C in like 3 seconds and instantly clocked down. I completely paniced and went through two hours of troubleshooting before I took the cooler off and discovered this little plastic peace of s**t 😂 glad to hear this even happens to pros!
You should create a diagram of each layout of the build. In software like diagram designer what I use. Create the fan layout sizes, number of fans modes and RPM speeds. Also mark whether your case is a ATX , ATX-E, micro-ATX Then once done print it out have it with you when you building your computer.
Pro Tip: Make sure you purchase a power supply that can supply enough power to your build. Purchasing a properly rated power supply is critical to a properly functioning and safe build. As mentioned in the video, power is drawn, not supplied. So, if your system, including MB, Processor, video card, and hdd/sdd needs a certain amount of power, an under rated PS isn't going to last. You will burn it up. If your Video card need 300 W, your MB and chipset needs another 200 W, you will want somewhere in the neighborhood of a 700 W PS minimum. This insures that you have enough rated power to also handle all those peripherals, like powered USB devices, your case fans, liquid cooling pumps, SSD/HDD, etc... It is Okay to get one a lot larger than what you actually need, A 1200W PS does not use 1200W, it just means that it can handle a 1200W draw from the devices in your build. If your system is using 550W of power and you are putting in a 300W PS, you are pulling 150 W more than the PS can handle. This creates a lot of excess heat, components burn up and you will eventually let the magic smoke out of your PS. The mathematical formula for Power (watts) is Voltage (V) x Current/Amps (I) = Watts (P). In the US power runs at 110-120 Volts. That 300W PS can only handle 2.5-2.72 Amps of current. Your system needs 4.5-5 Amps of current, so you are forcing an additional ~2.5 amps through a power supply that is not designed to handle it. I will work for a while, but eventually the PS will die, and sometimes spectacularly, and when it does go, you risk losing your whole computer system to current spikes. TLDR: DON'T USE A PS THAT IS RATED LOWER THAN YOUR COMPUTERS POWER NEEDS, OR YOU WILL BREAK YOUR COMPUTER.
So I'm still acquiring the parts for a 14th gen PC build (my first build in over 10 years). I have the case (NZXT H7 flow), I have the PSU, RM1000x), I have the hydro-Cooler (NZXT Kraken), I also have a set of "Be Quiet" 140mm Case fans, My question is.. There are 6 fans in the set. 1x 2600 rpm, 2x 1400 rpm & 3x 900 rpm... Where should I be mounting, which fans in my case? I assume the 2600 is for the back. But I'm not certain about the others, bearing in mind the Kraken Hydro-Cooler has a further 2x Fans & the GPU (as yet not purchased will have another 2 or 3 fans). Any advice would be welcome, or even a link to an airflow diagram. Thanks!!
"Powered is drawn, not supplied" is a good way for people to think about how power gets from the supply to the load, but it is actually supplied. That's why it's called a power supply.
Yeah, I'm not really sure what Jay was about there. Power usage by components has waxed and waned in the past. Usually, when a manufacturer (AMD, Intel or nvdia) has issues with a getting on a new architecture, they simply decide to build the old ones bigger and run them at higher voltages and clock speeds. That's what leads to high power usage. Switching to a smaller production process almost always leads to way better power consumption.
lol same. I had 2 but with crossfire dead for gaming the other is just collecting dust in the box now cdna.pcpartpicker.com/static/forever/images/userbuild/146234.611cd89684759555787658bb45e4d09c.1600.jpg
1 year later you remember this comment and chuckle at how naive you were back then. Then you eat a rad roach and drink anti-rad afterwards to prevent poisoning.
Thanks for this video. I am going to be building my first computer in like 8 years and have not kept up on current trends and technology. Lots of little things that have changed or I have just forgotten in that time. This is a great primer. Thanks.
I am semi confused. I have an 7900XTX which has three 8pin connectors. My PSU only included two tables for PCIE, one that is an 8-to-8 and one that is a 8-to-16 (using pigtails). Should I not use the above setup? The video mentions not using pigtails. My PSU is a Corsair RM850e.
Be careful when installing the rear io shield. They are stamped metal with super sharp edges. When you use your thumb or palm to push it in and it is hard going in you can easily slit a big wound into your hand. Recommend to wear thick glove with padding for this particular part.
Why not deburr, chamfer, and burnish the edges? It takes but a minute. As a former aviation metalsmith, I simply cannot abide burrs, sharp metal edges, and non-rounded corners.
@@maurice482390 That's probably because unless you're buying a pretty cheap ass motherboard the IO shield is often pre-attached. I've built 3 computers and not a single one has had a separate IO shield.
Built many PCs, but I still learned something from this video. That push config is a lot better than pull through a CPU cooler. I didn't know this and thought difference was negligible. Thanks Jayz :)
Pull config through a top mounted water cooler block is a good config don't take physics advice from youtubers just the computer advice.. maybe sometimes not even that haha. but other than that part this was a good vid.
I’ve been building computers for over 30 years now and the best part about building a computer today is having UA-cam reviews on almost every part you’ll ever want to use. I just built a TT Tower300 and I watched a ton of video builds with that case and I knew exactly what I wanted and what was going to work and what wouldn’t work.
IF YOU LOSE A SCREW OR OTHER SMALL METAL OBJECT, DO NOT TURN ON YOU COMPUTER UNTIL YOU FIND IT. I cannot tell how easy it is to fry a board that way.
Bump
Wow, that happened to me but I found the screw beforehand. Talk about dodging a bullet
Easier finding the screw if you go for burnmarks or flashing condensators tho.
@@GreakFTW but not easier for your wallet
just grab a big& strong magnet to recover it!
Build Tip:
Lay your case on its side when assembling. Stop trying to fight gravity. Don't be Linus.
I’ve wondered why he does that.
@@brykit1972 let me guess, better on camera?! I BET
YES, thank you!
@@TehObLiVioUs Their sets have overhead cameras.
But then you can drop stuff and do 'hilarious' thumbnails for vids
Exceeding the budget is my most common mistake
Yea, my first build I set a $1500 budget but by the end the system ended up costing $2100 , I went with 32 GB Ram instead of 16 & so forth, but I like the system I now have.
Mines was also 1500. Ended up around $1700,
Same I had a $1500 I think I spent well over $2400. My first ever build so I had to get all the other non negotiables that I didn't account for. Keyboard, mouse... MONITOR!! LOL. Plus I couldn't get a 3080 so I've been spending my money on RGB. I'm well past $2700 now.... I need my 3080 already 😭😭😭😭
LOL Isn't it always though?
Before the rampant censorship and my move to Linux I was the same way lol.
Number one tip that I learned is to watch a ton of videos before even buying a single piece of hardware, that way we don't have to send it back and wait even longer for the right parts.
Aye, a smart builder learns from her mistakes, but a wise builder learns from the mistakes of others.
this applys to literally everything ALWAYS DO RESEARCH
@@G1rby we oft succumb to pleas of "Do SOMETHING even if it's wrong!"
FACTS I did so much research before buying parts and I still had to wait for 1 more thing since i fucked up. def do research
That’s what I’m doing lmao
Not a seasoned PC builder and you've mentioned this a few times before, Jay, but... turning on the RAM XMP thingy in the BIOS is pretty easy to overlook...
I lost to a Lulu last match 🤫
I had bios that randomly resetted xmp on my X570 gigabyte. Latest bios update fixed that.
And if doing that causes boot loop or crashes, try checking for bios updates
Yeah, I forgot to do that.
I build mine today and I totally forgot. :(
pro tip: don’t forget to plug in the cable for the power button
edit: yes, i made this mistake & spent 6 hours trying to diagnose something that wasn’t broken until i actually read the manual and realized what was missing.
or per Jay's immediately previous video from this.. dont forget to plug in the power cable to an outlet.
Gigabyte has those plastic headers in which you plug your case pins (LED/reset/pwr) and then stick that single block in the main board.
Really nice and incredible simple system.
Would have been nice if manufacturers had those in the '90s when I was building lots of PCs when working in a computer store.
Those silly pins are still present in the current cases, but without such a simple plastic header you keep on messing with those tiny pin headers.
Unfortunately been there, done that.
@@TD-er I just upgraded my PC, but kept my Dell XPS 8700 case. Obviously Dell's and MSI's front panel pinout doesn't match so I bought a connector kit, depinned the Dell connector and reoriented them in the new connector to match MSI's pins. Super clean and no need to mess with those tiny, individual connectors anymore. Did the same thing with the audio connector, Dell used a bright yellow connector and I replaced it with a black one.
Actually, now that I think about it, I had to do something similar with my AIO's USB connector. My case has USBs on top and a card reader on the front which took up both USB 2.0 headers on the mobo. Luckily the card reader and the AIO only used one row of pins each, so I was able to combine them into one connector.
I plugged the power button on the pins right next to the ones you're supposed to and was freaking out why it wasn't turning on
One random tip for total first timers is to actually practice with your old system if its next destination is trash can anyways. You can pull things off, practice putting them back in, see how everything works, what goes where, how much pressure you need to apply and where you might break or mess something up. It doesn't matter in an old PC that was going to the trash anyways and you'll feel more comfortable handling your new shiny PC parts.
This is brilliant! Makes total sense too. In almost anything we learn to do, practice really helps. It's an excellent idea to practice building on a computer that you are planning to donate or trash. Would really be a great idea for trying to seat a processor for the first time as that can be one of the hardest things to do given how delicate they are.
I took classes at a community college on computer hardware, networking, etc. when I was getting ready to apply for IT jobs at computer stores. They had many systems of all sorts of configurations in the lab for us to practice on. The only thing that gets you over the shakes of 'omg I don't wanna break it' is to practice actually doing it.
this is how i learned to build them as a kid. for some reason there was no end to ancient pcs available to me, and i took them apart and figured out how to make all kinds of frankenstein machines
Best advice. Even more, find your nearest etech recycling place and or family and friends with old computers lying around grab all kind sof bits and pieces.... and build, build build, problem solve and get stuff working...
Then build your expensive gaming pc ;)
I've done this with a 3900x and a Be! Quiet dark rock pro 4. It was just my own construction.
My old computer pentium mmx 200 mhz overclocked to 250 mhz with 83 mhz max bus speed which wasn’t in the asus manual. (Had to completely remove jumper to get that speed ) found the magic of thermal paste. Only way to get 50 mhz more out of it haha good old days. Learned a lot with my first computer.
I managed to avoid all the common issues in my first build because I read all the manuals first, but I will say that the issue I DID have was caused by following the instructions TOO closely. My motherboard had two places to plug in the PSU. The manual stated that the second slot was only needed if you overclocked. We’ll I didn’t plan on overclocking, so I only plugged I. The first set of PSU cables, trying to have as few cables as possible. Once O turned it on… nothing. No post, no beeps, no fans. All I got was a debug led that said CPU. I thought for sure it was a bad CPU, so I returned the chip and bought another one. Still didn’t fox it. It took my brother telling me that sometimes you need that overclock power, even if you aren’t overclocking. I plugged in those cables, and BOOM, it’s worked perfectly ever since.
Thank you.
Old upload I know, but now that I have 5 builds under my belt I actually have something to contribute: Break your build in to stages, and take 5 - 10 min breaks between stages. It relieves some of the newb-jitters, and allows for a fresh state of mind at the beginning of each stage which will help you avoid stupid mistakes.
Great tip. Thank you.
Just a question, but what were those stages for you
good tip.will save me sime mistakes for sure
@@brandonfulater7039 Can't speak for Charlie but the stages I use are:
1. Get it all unpacked and organized
2. populate the motherboard (CPU, RAM, M.2)
3. (optional, only for modular PSU) check which cables you will need and put the rest aside to avoid confusion
4. install the motherboard + CPU cooler
5. Install the GPU and PSU and connect all the cables between components and the PSU
6. Check your manuals to double check you did all the steps correct and check it's all connected (The power button and such can use very tiny cables and may get loose if you were a bit clumsy within the case)
7. Close it and try to boot it and if it does in fact boot, check all the bios settings are as you wish, restart and see if it still boots.
and finally
8. if it does in fact boot, great, shut it down, take out the power cable and turn the PSU off, open up the case and cable manage to the best of your ability, this helps airflow, the aesthetics and you really shouldn't do this before you know the pc works. Few things suck more than having to undo a bunch of painstaking cable management because something is wrong.
None of these stages should take more than 10 minutes, with 5 minutes breaks in between each phase takes a max of 15 minutes for a total build time of 2 hours, at most. When you get more experienced you can blend phases together (1-3 as 'outside of the case', 4-6 as 'inside the case' and 7+8 as 'finishing up') and do them in 15 minutes with 5 minute breaks that is still only a 1 hour build. Of course if you get even more experienced you can fairly safely do 1-7 in 20 minutes and spend probably no more than 10 minutes on step 8.
But it all depends on what you're comfortable with, if you only do it once every few years some parts you remember and can speed through, others you've forgotten. There is no set time in which you should get it done. I personally don't build a lot of them, but enough that I'm most comfortable with the middle level 1 hour method. Hope this helped either you or anybody else that my come across this comment.
@@bararobberbaron859 you’re a lifesaver thank you so much
My Tip:
You don't have to build your whole PC in one go! Don't keep building if you're getting really tired or you will have less fun and be more prone to mistakes and frustration.
Took me 3hrs, first time building one!! Didn't get bored or tired, was more worried and careful with every part//component.
good tip buuut tbh i'd scared and worried to be bored lol
@@reposter6434 Took me 6 the first time, 3 to put it together and 3 to "cable manage". 2nd build (just a case and cooling upgrade) took me even longer but it looks MUCH nicer, but definitely tons of times where I got frustrated, especially trying to top mount a push/pull radiator
@@daniellapointe6658 Part I struggled with the most is actually placing the motherboard in, it just didn't seem to fit and I spent at least 30mins trying to fit it into the case. Second most painful part... was trying to get picture on my monitor, nothing was showing on screen and spent a hour or two looking on the internet for hours, wasn't until I asked a friend and he told me what was up... turns out I put the DPI cable into the motherboard slot XD other than that though it all worked out well.
This is a very good tip. Builds go way faster than you might expect. Stretch it out and enjoy the build!
HVAC engineer here with 15 years experience in the aerospace industry. All ventilation tips here are very accurate! Well done!
A Question if you dont mind: Wouldn't it be better to match how many intake vs. exhaust fans you have or have 1-2 more intake vs exhaust?
My thinking:
More intake then exhaust: slightly higher pressure inside the case -> air will get out whatever way provides least resistance
More exhaust then intake: slightly lower pressure inside the case -> air will try to get in from places other then the installed fans which might result in higher dust buildup.
@@pix_p you want the airflow to follow a specific path so the idea of having airflow following whatever way out is not efficient for cooling. Pc casing got a often intake grills far from components so it's better to suck fresh air from these locations and drive it to the hot spots with extracting fans so you're sure that hot air is going out quickly without flowing around other hot areas which could contribute to additional heating.
@@Senseimatty81 Sorry I should have been more clear with my Question. Yes you are right, making the Air follow a nice Path is optimal (for Example front in and back out), but what I am trying to figure out is that wouldn't it be better to have let's say 3 intake Fans at the front and only 2 exhaust at the rear?
That way you can be sure that all Air sucked into the Case will ONLY be coming from the front Fans which optimally would have a Filter of some sort in front of them.
When using 2 Intake Fans and 3 Exhaust Fans, the Case might have a slightly lower pressure inside which would result in Air entering the Case from other (non-Filtered) Openings.
@@pix_p For heat exchange is better more air out because the extraction fans are located close to the components so you are sure that the hot air will not stay inside but it will leave asap. More air in might become hot (or not contributing to heat exchange) and remains inside longer.
Dust will enter in the case anyway, the filters are not so effective as they say, otherwise you would need much more powerful fans to blow through them. I suggest to clean the inside of the pc with a small vacuum cleaner or blowing with a compressor time to time.
@@Senseimatty81 Ok thanks for clearing that up! (and also for taking the time to answer random Strangers Questions on the Internet :D)
My tip:
0. Check the manual first always before you start/buy any parts.
1. Similar to the previous, check if the RAM you are gonna buy is tested by the MB company.
The MB company will put the part number they have tested on its web.
2. Don't forget to consider the static. So using an anti-static mat can help.
3. Keep the CPU socket protector, and put it back when you don't have a CPU on it.
4. When installing AIO, make sure the fan side pipe is hight than the CPU side pipe because it may contain some air inside the pipe.
5. Imaging how heat flow in your PC can help you to avoid some silly mistakes.
Never checked a manual and built my first pc at age 14. Its honestly painfully simple, its just legos. Now software can grt complicated
Tip for new builders: "First you're gonna need a table" -Stefan Etienne
A non-metal table
Actually the First step is to plan have money to buy it, 😀
@@sarahfuntanilla6542 he said building not buying a pc 😂 👍🏼
Dont forget those tweezers
WE GOT ONE!
A good tip I have is to open the boxes for the parts as you go, don't open everything all at once especially if its your first time building a pc, start with the motherboard, then open cpu and work on installing it as soon as you take it out of the box, parts are less likely to get damaged when they are in the box and you are far less likely to misplace components under a mess of packaging. Also once you take your motherboard out of its box, put all of the warranty cards and manuals for the other parts into your motherboard box when you are done and keep the box. That one about the motherboard box has saved me on more than one occasion. It can also be a good idea to keep all of the boxes for all the components for at least a few months until you are sure they are all working correctly and none of them need to be returned as a malfunctioning part.
And as a side note, don't forget a usb with the windows install tool if you are going with Windows OS, and have a spare device with internet on hand just incase you get stuck with a step and need to go and do some googling to work out what you are meant to do next if your user manuals aren't helping with that. The motherboard manuals can sometimes be poorly worded so it's good to be able to watch a UA-cam video where someone explains it as they show it visually.
I want to give this all my thumbs up. Organization is KEY. 1st time or 100th time. 1st time organization means you can do it right. 100th time organization makes it faster.
I just helped with a PC build and did some steps multiple times because parts were dumped on the table and I would find stuff and go "ooooh that's what we needed" or "what is this screw even for?" Not a good idea when it's your first time.
I just started getting into pc and you are 100 percent right. While working on vehicles or your house it's a lot easier and sometimes faster to just clean the mess afterwards. PC is a beast of its own. I didn't stay organized and it cost me like 3-4 hours of build time.
Very good point. I myself have been doing it like this all the time and it helps a lot - both organising the parts during the installation, and keeping the boxes. Especially keeping all the boxes - not just the papers for possible future reference. I just recently assembled a new rig for myself from scratch after two decades of working with laptops only (just building a computer for someone else every now and then), and managed to stack all the boxes inside the one big box from the case, so they all together only take as much space in my basement as a single computer case.
Moreover, many components come with surplus parts intended for different types of installation/pairing component so you end up not using them, but it is good to keep them anyway, and here's where the original box comes handy. And, in case of replacing one or two components in the future, the boxes are also useful when selling the original components second hand - every second hand buyer will appreciate the original package with all the paperwork and spare/unused parts included :)
I find that the anti static bag the MB comes in quite usefull. While actualy building I usualy place the MB on the bag. During a break I will depending on how much extra clearance the bag has either put the MB back in the bag or just cover the MB with the bag.
Exactly, I haven't started yet but that's what I plan. Got the idea from all the different lego sets I used to put together in one sitting lmao. So many parts everywhere you have a tough time keeping track
Years ago, I decided to build my first computer. Since I really knew very little about doing this, I went to a bookstore. In the "how to do" section, I came across a manual entitled, "How to build a computer and not make mistakes." The author was JayzTwoCents. What a crazy name, I thought. But, I guessed that he must know more about this than me, and I bought it.
I got a book with the same title, but authored by some "Stefan Etienne" dude.
Seems legit. 😜
I got *Upgrading and Repairing PCs by Scott Mueller,* back in 1990 or so.
He still seems to update it, it's up to the 23rd edition or something like that.
I enjoyed reading this short story.
And he goes like "do as i say, not as i do" :D
@Kami Sama Loves Me lmao
6:20 In task manager ( ctrl+shift+escape ), in the "performance -> memory" tab will say if you are running the memory in one or 2 channels.
IO SHEILDS: not all motherboards come with them built-in! Install this into the case first! In the correct orientation!
To add to that, make sure none of the ports are blocked by the little metal tabs around some of the ports. Have had to pull a mobo more than once because a USB port was partially blocked by a little tab from the io shield.
had to remove the mobo after fully building to do this. good call
For regular tower case, orientation, it is always the Audio towards the bottom of the IO plate, or audio closest to the PCI slots
been there done that lol
You mean the brace?
Great video, I've made a few milestones because I had to watch more than once
1:00 motherboard assembling suggestions (processor, m2 ssd)
3:56 dram installation (best usage of channels)
6:20 cpu cooler
9:14 air flow, fans
12:20 water cooler radiators air flow
14:29 graphics card, sizes, dimensions
17:18 power cables
Ty much appreciated
4 months later but I appreciate this comment
best comment. over a year after the fact but still best
@@3Black.1Red Please tell me I have a motherboard Dual Channel on MSI Pro z590 and I started from inside near the cpu i mean the second slot ...and for the second Dimm I enter it to the outer slot is this correct? Thank you very much in advance.
@@ORTHODOX-PATH
He’s saying if you have 4 slots and 2 ram sticks, stick it in 1 and 3 or 2 and 4
Tip: Just do it. Don't be scared. There are plenty of resources online if you get stuck or something isn't working. After you complete your first build, you'll never want to go back to store bought.
Basically what I did. Always wanted a good pc but didn't want a pre-built. Budgeted, bought the parts, watched a few videos on here and did it. Building the pc itself is the easy part, it's actually getting it to run stable once you get the OS installed that's a fucking pain in the ass. Spent two weeks after building it troubleshooting driver problems before figuring out that the auto overclock programs it came with was causing it to BSOD along with the 5700XT that I bought. After replacing the Wraith Prism cooler with a Noctua DH15 same thing, constant BSODs. Had to reseat CPU, RAM, and the GPU along with reapplying thermal paste and resetting the OS. Haven't had an issue since, and that was after panic buying new RAM for it. Only advice I have is get familiar with Event Viewer and Command Prompt
@@danestrenton what does bsod mean?
@@vivvy_0 It means Blue Screen of Death. It's what shows whenever your computer crashes, or at least should show. It's also the most contrarian thing I've ever seen, equal parts valuable and absolutely useless.
You need to watch yourself though. You start out saying to yourself, "I'll just try it this one time." Then your friend is tempting you to try it again with him, and your think, "What could it hurt?" Before you know it, you're hooked and you start dealing PCs on EBay, just to support your habit, all the while thinking, "I can quit anytime I want to." But you can't, you start staying home instead of going out, you lose your girlfriend, you become a hermit churning out gamers over and over until finally you become a UA-camr. I've seen it before.
A year ago, I rebuilt my Msi laptop into a beast for what it is. Now I'm confident in building my first desktop. I'm well inclined technically, but never before with computers. I learned everything I've done online in forums and YT.
Thank you for this refresher. I've build rigs in the past but recently a friend of mine has asked me to build one for him. This video was very helpful to bring me up to speed with the issues around larger RAM chips, CPU heat sinks, graphics cards and the power requirements, etc... Thank you!
As a really old builder, who never did get into the huge graphics cards, I find you quite instructive. Live long and prosper!
yeah probably one of the very few people that can teach me a thing or two about this stuff.
ua-cam.com/video/FSSFgWlDbJU/v-deo.html
🖖🖖🖖🖖🖖
9:47 Here's a tip. For case fans of all sizes, the cages usually appear in an "X" form. "X" for exhaust. Easy to remember 🙂
Nice tip, my light wings are marked lol
I have to cut my fans bc my case is small they are held by one small screw...
@@Bewwy_overload Are you using Slim Fans ? Normal Fan height is 25mm, and there are Slim Fans with 12-15mm. When the Intake of the Fan is Crowded a Slim Fan will improve Performance. The extra 10mm allows the Blades of the Fan to scoop air better. Had a Thermaltake Case which needed Slim Fans for the top, normal fans simply didn't performed. Switched to slims and suddenly performance.
@@Elkarlo77 yeah it was just I had a 10in case and it had no room inside, I bought a new case a few weeks ago and it's much bigger. I can fix exactly what I need now. TNX for trying to help though!
Computer fans spin toward the sharpest point. Think of them as arrows pointing the direction of fan spin.
Fan blades are curved. If it looks like an upside-down spoon, the air is blown away from you. If the spoon is upside right, it blow toward you.
That tip at the end for increased frame rates is amazing! I went from displaying 59hz to 60hz in an instant 😎
I made your comment go from 59 likes to 60 likes👍
I went from 59.997 to 60.000 take that
haha... my display properties only has 50, 59, and 60 as options, but 60 was already selected. I have a 9 year old monitor and a 6 year old monitor.
Upgrading my PC soon(TM) and I'm eyeing a 34 inch curved widescreen with 100hz, ooo baby.
@@gfox9295 my monitor is 12y old and was a good one back in the day 1080p display. No idea why 59hz to 60hz was an option haha 😆
@@johnjackson2349 Yeah. I'm sure there's a story behind it someone techier than you or I might know. ;)
I'vee been following you for a while, but after watching this video - I have to say it: Congrats for all the great material! Very clear, concise, no-BS information, crystal clear. You sir, are a blessing to the PC master race building community!
Built my first PC yesterday, I had been planning it for two years. It took me five hours to build it but I'm happy with how it turned out, I only broke one small cable too! I had watched so much tech content on here that I was able to complete it without any of these mistakes. Thank you to you guys and all the other tech channels for sharing great advice and making me excited about technology!
Congrats on a very rewarding experience! I hope you managed to scrape up all the components without paying scalpers prices..
I built my own PC too this year, actually live-streamed it. Took me 5 hours too lol :)
@@jm9371 Yeah, somehow managed to get a 5600x for retail price and other components were regular price too. Just waiting on MSI Ventus 3080 which I pre-ordered at normal price so I'm currently using an old GPU from a prebuild. Budget was £1500 and I went couple pounds over. Super happy with it!
Congrats! Just finished my build also... 5600x was retail, Asus 3070 was $50 over retail but I didn’t have any choice if I wanted to play. Very happy with the results
Welcome to this addictive activity. I hope you had fun. I love building a new PC.
Some people also forget to mount the standoffs in the case before installing the mainboard (if they aren't pre-installed). That often causes a short circuit on the backside of the motherboard and can basically destroy it.
You're referring to standoffs correct?
even if there are spacers pre-installed, one should double check they are fitting the size factor of the MB that you are about to throw in.
@@mvhdsk1122 thats how i killed my msi x79 xD rip
no wait thats how i killed asrock am3+ msi x79 was because there was loose screw in the cage and i said meh ill get it later xD =
@@mvhdsk1122 yep was looking for this comment. First build long long time ago installed all the standoffs that came with mobo and ended up shorting my mobo because it didn’t line up with all the same standoffs.
pro tip: Rule of thumb, screw your air/liquid coolers in using a "x" pattern. This seems to always work for me ensuring equal distribution of pressure. not all coolers have a multiple screw points so tighten till snug do not over tighten some coolers have a hard stop to prevent this but just keep it in mind
Generally, if you have four screws in a rectangle to screw in, always do it with a x-pattern. It distributes stress most evenly and thus makes it easier to align the holes for the screws.
@@andreasferenczi7613 I was about to say it, you should always do this with 4 screws
@@Ravio_Lee You should do this with any bolt pattern unless specified otherwise. Like the 5 or 6 lug nuts on your car's wheels.
It is also important to remember to not fully tighten on the first go of each fastener, get them snug, then go back and tighten completely following the same pattern.
That, and don't bottom down the screws until all 4 screws are threaded in a bit. Then start tightening in a cross pattern.
@@schwig44 yea i learned that the hard way I broke a stud on a brand new car lol the nut was still loose when I tightened it and air guns are not forgiving on max speed, won't make that mistake again
Thanks
Those motherboard NVMe heatsinks will usually have a peel on the thermal pad as well. Don't cook your expensive SSD
I did this at the start of the month. Thankfully I was going to show a friend where the SSD was located, so I removed the shield and put it aside, it was then I notice the peel.
Wait really. The group I was in told me to leave it off (because it wouldn't fit no matter what). 3-4 months i think now and no issues but that doesn't mean anything.
You also might need to remove or relocate one or more m.2 standoffs, or else they will be pressing into the back of the SSD, making it bend, break or short circuit.
@@timhartherz5652 Yup I had to do this on a MSI Z490 Tomahawk, kinda stupid how they install 2 standoffs on a single m.2 slot
@@jmlinden7 Same on the b550 Tomahawk, probably for really short SSD's i would assume.
Pro tip: On modular PSUs never ever use spare power cables from different brands of PSU, these are not standardised and each manufacturer uses different specs for the cables, the connectors may be identical but the cables aren't.
That's literally the first thing in the video...
@@floodlitworld The first tip in the video is to build everything you can on the motherboard. They don't even get into PSUs until about 17 minutes in and then he says to not use the same cable for multiple plugs
i just bought a used rog psu and it only comes with one pcie cable. any recommendations? currently using 3060 ti
@@WaWeCris You could try messaging their support and asking for replacement wires of the same model of PSU. Be prepared to pay though
A few years back I literally fried my system by doing this. Lost my HDD, Motherboard, Feed and GPU. It was very costly, so please heed the warning. :)
Don´t drink 12 beers while building a system. 6-8 is the sweet spot !
Or dont drink beer at all.
@@tikket10 on god
@@tikket10 No
ORRRR maybe just limit yourself to 1-2 beers, and then as many as you want/can handle afterwards.
@@tzxazrael Haha, yes maybe 😜
Thanks!
Forgetting to turn on the PSU when you're done
Lmao yes
it happened to me TWICE
Yeah I had a friend return the PC he asked me to build cause he didn't turn the PSU on lmao
Mood
That’s an everyone thing
Pro Tip: If upgrading your PSU do not be lazy and reuse your old wires. You will fry your motherboard and/or hard drives. Take the old power cords out and put in the new ones that came with your new PSU. Each PSU manufacturer and even models are wired differently on the PSU side.
And what about that beautiful custom cables which are made by third-party companies?
They're kinda universal or what?
@Pavel BadSlime Only use them if they're rated to handle the current.
@@pavelsoloway3675 Custom extension cables are 99% of the time universal since they just "extend" the existing cable and don't do anything themselves. Although the current they can handle can vary, so be cautious which brand you're buying (cheap chinese extenders may not be the smartest choice)
Custom PSU cables on the other hand are not universal. CableMod for example has different cables for different PSU's and you have to select your PSU to ensure you get the right cables.
@@Teddy_Bear312 thanks for clarifying this!
Molex plugs have norms as far as I know, thus the pinning will not differ, if you buy or reuse cables for the same intention.
Built my first pc this week, and didn't do a single thing wrong out of these. Feel great now thanks
Me too! I mean.. I do wish I had kept some of the packaging lol
Howd you get a gpu?
@@bageltwo she probably bought it mate
Nice!
@@1kblimp they are now always sold out or overpriced like ps5s 😐
My tip:
When installing the CPU cooler, avoid fully tightening the first bolt and then the others in sequence. This may result in improper placement and uneven distribution of thermal paste between the CPU and the cooler plate. Instead, tighten the bolts gradually and in alternating turns, one at a time.
Don't forget the tweezers and the thermal paste applicator, those are the most important
I wonder if we’ll ever get tired of making fun of that video.
The fact that we still talk about this till now just goes to show how much of a dumpster fire it was.
And the anti static, no, anti cancer wristband
@@timkoken1570 they're collectible right?
Also, the CPU applicator, don't ever forget that.
The mistake I see thr most has to be "pulling the cpu off with the cooler" because the paste hardens. It really needs to be in every cooler manual to tell you to stress test you cpu before you attempt to remove the cooler and to TWIST before you pull
Seriously this has to be up there. Great tip.
happened to me one time and I ruined a motherboard. Cpu was fine though, Great tip thats missing from the video!
Great Tip!!
yes yes! I've done that before...scared the hell out of me lol...luckily everything was ok but still.......deff make sure its warmed up and twist before rocking or pulling!!!
@@opieman82 Yeah I was like, "WTF it came out with my Noctua cooler??" Luckily for me aswell no pins looked bent or broken.
Tip for newbies: keep the component boxes and the contents of them in the event a part goes bad, that way you can RMA the component with the least amount of hassle.
More importantly have bills and check the serial no on components and on the box also
This is smack-on thanks, the boxes often have the serial numbers, that you will need for warranty registration. Try getting the serial number off a CPU or M.2 after it is mounted under a cooling solution especially a water cooler.
Also if you decide to sell a part some time later .. selling it in original packaging can yield you up to 50 $ more.
English pls.
@@Bruh-403 keep the boxes the parts come in. If they’re broke when you receive em or they break on you within warranty, use the original box to send the part back to the manufacturer.
Thank you!!! I've been working on my first build over the last few months after waiting for parts, and your videos have helped me through the whole process. I'm super grateful! I was stressed working with a 4090 and a 7950X for my first build, and your videos helped me not make any detrimental mistakes. I appreciate what you do!
Pro Tip: Don't lose the ' M.2 drive' screws.
yeah always screws the M.2, whether you have a M.2 SSD or not. i missed my M.2 screws
1 like =1 RIP 😣
@@gokulnathan007 bruh
Ha I’m still looking for them lol
Also dpnt lose your 3090 FE did that 45 years ago when i was a youngin learned my lesson there
@@charliefinlow665 how tf did you lose that
Also, just to be safe, NEVER mix the cables from different PSUs. I burned two SSD drives because I used a couple of spare cables from a dead, stronger PSU. Turns out those cables were eager to spread death. I remember clearly me turning on the computer, then smelling melted plastic, seeing smoke come out, and yelling "OOH, NOOOO!".
thx haven't tried it so far but good 2 know ^^
Seen a similar comment on another video and it made me go buy replacement cables for one I was missing. Better safe than sorry.
Don't doubt that happened, but how does it jibe with his statement that a device DRAWS the power, the power is not pushed to it?
@@roland1332 What are you saying
@@KurtisQu Displaying my ignorance about circuits. Jay reminded us that it’s the load that draws the power and since the load ( the SSD) doesn’t change just because you change a cable, why should the cable make any difference? Obviously, I gotta rethink that. Ignore my remark.
When installing GFX or other cards....ALWAYS cut power AND after unplugging (or flipping the PS switch) hit the power button on the PC. This will drain all power from the MoBo and capacitors. It's very easy to touch the MoBo with the metal brackets and short something on the MoBo potentially frying your board. It's rare but it's worth the extra precaution.
I learned this one the hard way.
Same here!
Great Tip. Had a similar situation on the first generation iMac (the one with exposed power supply). The iMac was not plugged in but the capacitor on the power supply had a charge and it gave me quite a shock.
Just to throw in a funny anecdote, sometimes crazy stuff happens and you're sure you've shorted stuff out and it's somehow perfectly fine!
Back when I was much younger, I had a new PC that someone built for me that always overheated. I "solved" this issue by leaving the case side off and sitting a large fan blowing air into the case next to it. One of the situations I had it set up in, I had a fan that was definitely not very general populace friendly, some industrial thing of some sort I imagine. Anyways, its power cord had a little metal tab tab/copper sleeve connection thing; if you work with automotive or industrial electronics you probably know what I'm talking about. Anyways, I managed to pull them off their tabs one day and they contacted the PC case. Turned the PC off instantly, blew the fuse a few seconds later, and welded the metal sleeves on the ends of the wires to the case. lol. I was SURE that computer was done, but it somehow still worked just fine after that.
i think youre supposed to shut down, flip the switch on the psu, hold the power button, then unplug
@@gerard4441 Then twist three times while whistling Dixie?
Sure, that's the correct order, but if you don't know that, you probably shouldn't be inside a PC... Lol
That said, I have seen people with decent knowledge work in a PC after turning it off without draining the caps, and thats the biggest take-away here.
One thing I would add is static electricity from your body can damage components. A few dollar wrist grounding strap could save you from frying something. I've only built 2 computers, but have done a fair bit of electrical work and a little electronics. I also wouldn't put a motherboard down on a table surface, I believe I used the anti-static packaging. Don't touch solder joints with your hands, easy enough to do and there's no upside to doing so. Don't wear socks on carpet while building, that can increase the chance of static electricity discharging into a component.
Difficult to find grounding wrist straps here. Will doing bare foot on marble floor take care of the concern?
@@nssandhu4401 I would assume so, but don't take my word for it. :) You could also just buy one flexible copper wire the length you need to ground to something, and make a section of bare wire loop around your hand/leg with good skin contact.
Make sure your case has the correct standoff (locations) installed for the motherboard you are using.
I have a motherboard that only uses 6 of the ATX standoffs, and as a result, the case it's in has three exposed standoffs (I had transfer cases at some point, so I didn't think about this at the time, won't surprise me if the old case was the same way).
6:15 I literally had a no post scenario that had me pulling my hair out last night. Every time I set the memory for DOCP it would crash on reboot and send me back to the BIOS. Apparently putting your RAM in A1 B1 and enabling DOCP = crashes. Also you video was a few hours too late as I fixed it this morning by RTFM and putting them in A2 B2
Pro tip: route your cpu cable through the top hole before you install the motherboard
depens on the quallity of the case, yeah i have to do that most of the time because customers cheap out on a case
I had to remove a mobo once because of this! :D
Well you can add CPU Power cable(s) might be plural dependent on cpu and motherboard.
@@frickzjee Cheaping out on the case seems like a good option to me. Personally I don't give a crap about what the system looks like since I suspend it under my desk so I don't have to see it at all. And I usually only build in it once, I rarely add anything to a system once it is built. So for me it makes perfect sense to not spend a lot of money on a case to fix a five minute inconvenience.
Just giving a different viewpoint :)
@@treborrrrr Omfg you're giving a different viewpoint on the internet?? HOW DARE YOU??? 😤😤😤 Jk obviously lol
Tip for the ones who are building a custom loop for the first time:
Think about where you want to drain your loop if you need to service it beforehand! If you are building in a case you will have poor acess to most ports of a watercooling loop. The method I'd recommend is to put a T - junction at the lowest part of the loop (say a pump port or in the middle of a pipe). Then add a ball valve on one of the T - junction ports. When you want to drain the loop you can simply attatch a tube to the valve and easily empty the liquid into a proper container.
And be sure to add a plug on the outside of the ball valve. You don't want to depend on the valve not leaking.
1. While considering the Graphics Card height also consider the PCI-e Power Cable overhang, especially with the new 40-series GPUs so that you don't pinch or bend the wires in any damaging way....
2. If possible test a fully built system before putting it in the Case to save the trouble of disassembling everything in case something goes wrong "pun intended ;)"
3. Same as 2, test the fans and RGB before mounting....
How do I test those things?
@@PoleTooke you can easily test 2, and 3 on the motherboard box you use to plug in the essential components before putting it in the case....you may need to reapply thermal paste again if you remove the cooler to put the Mobo into the case so be aware of that, although it shouldn't be that big of a deal with Air Coolers
For 1, you might need to see a few case reviews before buying a cabinet....seeing the GPU sizes nowadays I'd suggest going for the largest case you can physically handle on your table for the safest bet....if you're going for ITX builds make sure to do intensive research on the compatible components and build guides to figure out any potential shortfalls
@@snm_dyxtra thanksssss
@@PoleTooke glad it helped😇
It would be helpful to have a short video of what to expect after you finish the physical build. For example installing the new OS, downloading new drivers, and common errors that arise (setting motherboard to Windows 11 settings, etc).
Troubleshooting is the fun part though
Jayztwocents already has an older, but still very helpful video on that titled: "Guide: What to do AFTER building your computer..." Just do a quick UA-cam search to find it. Cheers
@@liteknight Yeah I saw that video the very next day after posting this comment.
Just built my new PC and I was getting angry because it wasn't recognizing my GPU.
Discovered that the power cable was not connected to the PSU 🤦🏽
@@liteknightfor anyone reading this now, there’s a 2023 edition he uploaded (I’m guessing it was uploaded after you guys commented)
Hang onto the spare parts. They might not be spares after all.
And they come in very handy when you're upgrading the machine. Especially the power supply cables - not all power supply cables are interchangable.
Yes, being a hoarder for cables and adapters has saved me heaps on my current build and on my last. Especially if you’re not working with high end stuff.
@@punkizm I had been collecting parts, cabales, etc. since 1983. About 8 years ago I decided it was time to get rid of that which hasn't been used in 20 years or more. Well about 90% went unnoticed, but that darn 10% came a knocking one day when I needed something for my Pentium Overdrive system I decided to take out of the closet. Live and learn.
Correct i once discover a spare SATA cable from those old PSU
I bought one desktop computer back in the 1980s. Started upgrading it. After a while I looked around and realized that all I needed was a case, monitor, keyboard and mouse and I could have a second computer. Lather, rinse, repeat for the next 30 years. I did buy my wife a desktop computer about 5-10 years ago when she insisted (although she mostly uses her phone and ipad now,) but most of the computers my kids used were upgrades.
This is by far the most informative video I've found about building a PC and it's not even meant to be about actually building a PC but not making mistakes when you do. Thank you.
17:18 I didn't know this was an issue until I watched this, and of course for my two PC builds I had gone and done the one-cable jump-over thing to the second connector of my GPUs (RTX3070Ti). But I couldn't rest knowing that the power config for each GPU wasn't optimal, so last night, in the wee small hours -- and entirely on the strength of this video nagging me at the back of my mind -- I had to add the other cable to each of my PC builds. So thanks to JayzTwoCents I'll now be able to sleep at night🙂
I've just checked the wattage for the RTX3070Ti, and it draws 290W, so that's 65W more than the 225W supplied by the single cable (when within its max supply rating) plus the PCIe. So I'm sure I did the right thing, even though it probably isn't something a lot of folks would worry about. Better to be safe and max out the lifespan of my PC's components.
Yo dawg, I feel ya. I always like to make sure my PC is runnin' at its optimal performance. You did the right thing by adding that extra cable. Ain't nothin' worse than havin' your PC not runnin' at its best. Keep on keepin' on, my man.
Think about undervolting. I got my 3070TI undervolted to pull 220W on max load without any performance hit, and that's pretty conservative undervolt. Igor's lab did an undervolt on a 3070TI if you want to read that article. Though I still avoided the daisy chain :) My baby's getting everything.
You did the right thing. This is something I may have to correct on a quite old build that I did with an RTX 1070. I can't remember if it has only one power connector, or two, however....
Obviously, this is assuming your power supply is modular, but "If" the daisy-chain is a bit of an eye-sore for you then you can flip the cable around so there isn't a cable dangling in your case. You still only plug one cable into each slot of course, but the chain will be close to your power supply instead of right where your GPU is. That way your GPU will look like it has a single cable connection and it's much cleaner/easier to manage.
I did have an older PSU where the cables weren't the same but nowadays pretty much every modular PSU I own I just flip them for the nice clean look.
It's worth nothing however that despite the 150W 'spec', many PSU manufacturers allow for more power. Take a look at the Corsair 12VHPWR cable, it uses only 2x PCIe sockets, yet it can provide up to 600W to a 4090.
Motherboard:
Before you install the components on the MB, dry-fit it in the case first to see if it all lines up correctly, stand-offs are in place and no case or MB defects.
In fact it's a good idea to dry-fit as many components as you can. Better safe than sorry!
Remember the old adage; Always measure twice and cut once.
I have to swap chassis because of this. My new board would not fit in the intended 4U chassis so had to swap with another. That was cool...
Build videos like this should emphasize SAVE YOUR COMPONENTS PACKAGING. You’re going to upgrade your PC, and selling older components is viable and doing so in original packaging is so helpful for you and the buyer.
Suggestion is to have some sort of storage container where you keep boxes, cables etc.
I re-use the box my case come in to store all the other components boxes. They are usually large enough to fit everyting, and you keep track of everything you put into that specific build in one place.
Great tip. It’s so nice having the original box when I upgrade parts to put the old part back in.
I have all mine chilling in the PC Case boxes and skinnier ones in the monitor boxs. then they go in a corner or under the bed. This is great advice.
@@wargas111 that’s exactly what I do as well.
Also save the packaging just in case you need to RMA something for repair or replacement. Check the manufacturer warranty and at least keep it for that long.
The thing that scared me the most when I first tried it was the amount of force you need to apply on that lever when installing intel cpus. It feels... wrong
Oh yes! That took me by surprise too. None of the videos prepared me for that :)
Intel CPU's works best with bent pins
YEah but I've built so many LGA builds never had an issue with that. Next AMD gen is gonna be LGA too (pins on mobo instead of chip).
glad i wasnt the only one. thought I was breaking something for sure
You tube helps a lot. I'm a visual learner, so watching others do it first helps a lot. If you got a question then UA-cam has 1000 videos to answer you
THANK YOU!!!!!!!!!! I subscribed as soon as you said about not using the split cables. A buddy of mine says its no different blah blah blah nice to see someone else agrees with me lol. I've always told him if it was that simple as running the splitter why wouldn't the split not be done internally? Why would they put on 2 ports if all the power can come from one power source
Prep your area, prep your area and, yes, prep your area. Things people don't think about, whether it's building in stages, or where they are going to work on their build, is do I have an ESD mat, ESD wrist strap or other items that can help me protect my PC components. It does not take much for static discharge to ruin a CPU, BIOS chip or some other controller on your motherboard or GPU. Also, have a way to organize screws and some people don't think about this but take pictures during your build so if you run into problems you have something to reference. Excellent video for beginners!!
Would simply touching a radiator and/or putting on a pair of rubber gloves be sufficient? In the past I got away with grounding myself on a radiator immediately before touching anything in the case during building.
@DGneoseeker1 Rubber gloves are not meant to be a way for preventing static discharge. Depending on the material the gloves could increase the chance of ESD. The best option, on a budget, is to have an ESD wrist strap that is attached to the bare metal chassis or some other metal grounding point.
@@g-wolf9445 The part I don't quite understand about this is that the metal chassis in itself is going to be sitting on a non-conductive table so where is the charge grounding to?
@DGneoseeker1 If you are serious about having a true ESD safe configuration buy ESD matting for the work surface, buy and install an ESD continuous monitoring station to plug your ESD wrist strap into and also have a humidity monitor for the room you are working in. That's a true ESD safe setup. If you have a way to tie the PC chassis into an earth ground and then tie your ESD wrist strap into the chassis that will work too.
@@DGneoseeker1yup just don’t put your pc together on carpet and you’ll be fine I’ve built 100s of pcs and never had a issue. Never used a wrist strap or even took any precautions other than not building on carpet
I've built a lot of computers, but I'm about to build my first one in 9 years, and a lot has changed. Thanks for this video.
Yeah same, for me maybe been 18 years. In fact almost forgot about the dual channel RAM mistake as back then usually boards had only two slots, so as long as you split your RAM you were good. So was a good reminder.
PC buildings biggest mistake:
Expecting to be able to buy a gpu...
expecting the GPU to be at the SRP when it will be doubled once it becomes available in your country...
Or a Ryzen 5000 series CPU for that matter.
and expecting to by a high enough rated PSU
@@MaskOfCinder
Bought mine on Amazon at MSRP. Really wasnt difficult to find.. Have you tried looking with your eyes?
But hey, you can buy anything Intel!
I’ll see myself out.
I've built a couple gaming pc's now and still find this video helpful as a reminder before starting or during. In fact yesterday i made the mistake of the radiator being to large for my case and my massive gpu. I was less than a half inch from it fitting inside the case. Could not fit the radiator on the top either due to ram clearance. my plan is to get a smaller radiator and see what happens. Fingers crossed!
just remember everyone: every tip is "important"
Highly underrated in my opinion 😂😂
All 8 pins are not created equal... It will go boom and it will cost $$$
Jayz tech tips? xD
Including Q-tip?
@@3xChester_exe Yes, just remember to stop it when there's RESISTANCE!
"People keep making mistakes so we will keep making the videos!"
The beatings will continue until moral improves!
morale* , but I get that reference. Lol.
Kant as a drill instructor
Gunny had that flag on his desk lol.
@@kasper_429 it works with morals too....
@@Smakheed lol true, but the original line (how I've heard it, at least) is morale.
Been building and repairing desktop and server systems for over 25yrs. My tips would be, Don't ever force anything like plugs etc. Install the motherboard in the case with the case laid down on the side, it's way easier. Keep track of all screws and don't over tighten (especially mobo standoffs lol, or cooler retention plate screws). Keep work area clear and work logically. Don't wear thick long sleeved clothing, like the jumper your nanna got you for christmas :), Always hold an AMD cpu by the edges of the pcb, the pins are extremly fragile. Always read the mobo manual for cpu installation, so you get the right orientation. Never place components directly on carpet, carpet is as conductive as your local substation (esp if your walking around the room in socks, the static generation from such is horribly supprizing) hence a further tip of keep all components in their ESD bags until your ready to actually install them. Further to what Jay says here about mounting and air cooler before mobo mounting in the case, some AIOs and water block backplates and retention standoffs can also be pre mounted to the mobo. Check your mobo standoffs before trying to mount the mobo in the case. Check all plugs and have a look around before closing the case and powering up.
First time builders don't have to stress too much with todays modern parts, as most of it is fairly easy to work out and if not and you do find something that's making you question life, there are quite a few great videos right here on UA-cam to help you out by great and experienced people like Jay :) Lastly don't rush to build your pc, as with most things speed comes from experience
Don't go too far - some things like memory modules and the 24-pin need some force
@@drearyplane8259 Agreed :)
Please help I recently built a PC and none of my fans are spinning, but all the fans are connected properly. There is no display to the monitor, and I double, triple checked that everything was connected in its proper place. Please help maybe Im missing out something that I didnt think of.
My motherboard says its Ryzen 5000 ready and my cpu is 5900x, so its not a BIOS issue. I cant think of any other reason of what may be causing the issue.
Sorry for spamming ur comment, im just really desperate for help lol :)
@@angele5321 Is the power supply turned on? If it is, somethings kinda bad. Maybe try reddit? I'm no expert.
@@drearyplane8259 yeap it is, the motherboard light turns on but nothing else, tho my fans have no rgb. I guess i should turn to reddit. Thanks thoo :)
a lot of cases come with motherboard stand offs pre-installed for many form factors, be careful to not leave 1 unused under the board in the wrong place.
im gonna forget this lowkey
This one is important, before you start:
If you got electric shocks when using a door handle, try to find out what caused your static charge. Like... Your chair. If you have something that causes static charge, get rid of it. You don't want to kill your electronics by touching it!
As long as you discharge before touching your components you should be fine, or wear an antistatic band clipped to a metal thing.
@@nealtse9125 Clipping to a non grounded metal thing will do nothing to discharge you. You need a proper ground, like a power supply plugged into the wall.
I've always wondered how much power a typical static shock pulls, it must be a pretty significant amount if it can fry electronics. I've been hit with electrical socket power before and sometimes the static shocks I've gotten have felt pretty similar to that.
@@edwhatshisname3562 The issue is not the power. It is that you go over the breaktrhough voltage of a diode and destroy the PN-walls. So you don't need a lot of power, but only the voltage. Don''t ground yourself before touching stuff but be ALWAYS grounded, and make sure the electronics are as well, as they can be charged, too.To The other guy: I know chairs that will recharge you easily again. This will be a simple way to kill electronics, after you got yourself grounded before.
We solved that by putting wires over the chair for discharging. xP
@@gerble36 as I understand it you want the same potential as the components. If you are earthed and the components have a slight charge it will discharge through you and can still damage them, at worst (apart from doing nothing) touch the earth connection of the components, at best have an earthed desk
Plugging in HDMI or Display Port cable into Motherboard rather than plugging it into the graphics card (if they have one) - I have seen this a lot recently.
Because people are nicking the gpus =)
Lol. They're too used to Dell computers with no gpu in the first place. My dad has a Dell Inspiron that still runs Windows 7 and has no gpu(obviously, it's Dell). He would look at me plug hdmi into gpu and think: *What?*
Something really helpful for me was having a head lamp. Makes it so much easier to get proper light and avoid creating shadows
Thank You Jay. It's been 12 years from my last Build and Building in 2023! Nice to have the refresh in all from the Build to the install!!! Doing it out of the case to make sure everything works before it goes into the Case.
Tip 1: Plan your build before you do anything! Then lay out the components on your table in the order you want to assemble them. This will make things go way faster, and helps ensure you don't forget a step.
Tip 2: Dry fit large components before screwing them in. I don't know how many times I've checked the manufacturer specifications that say a component should fit, and then I can't make the component fit (usually by a few millimeters). Component fit becomes a huge issue when doing water cooling in small cases.
Tip 3: Download the user manuals for all components before buying them. Often times the manuals have better dimension specifications than what is listed on diagrams on their store pages. A recent example was getting a Fractal case that said it could have a 420mm radiator in the top. Under no circumstances would any 420mm radiator fit in the top because of RAM height. The manual said there was 35mm of clearance for RAM with a 420mm rad, but that wasn't listed anywhere on the manufacturer specifications. I could only find one type of RAM that was less than 35mm in height installed, and even then, it was 32mm, leaving 3mm of clearance from the rad, which in reality wasn't enough to get everything installed.
TIP: pay attention to where the notch is when installing memory modules. Make sure the notch aligns with the slots on the MB. If they don’t align pushing them in will damage the memory slots or modules themselves.
Yea, I fried 3 memory slots and 1 memory stick by placing them backwards. I am not sure how I did it, but it did click.
Jay is one of few tech tubers to simply say "look at the manual" in regards to memory install. So many say "match the colors" or "skip a slot". Respect
A couple of odd things that I've hit:
- double check your chipset and that your motherboard supports your CPU
- double check your motherboard supports your ram pin layout
- if using multiple GPUs or need multiple SATA ports/m.2 ports, some motherboards disable data ports or m.2 ports, or via versa. Usually motherboards try to share the lanes between them so you need to know what conflicts with what.
- when installing GPUs, there's usually an order like there is with ram.
Common mistake for beginners : assuming all those shiny RGB products will EVER work well together :P
I got an all corsair rgb build with mouse pad, mouse, headset holder, keyboard, ram, 6 fans, aio cooler, an asus mother board and lian li 24 pin/ 8 pin rgb cables. All of them are synced with corsair. 😸😸😸😸
@@PANCHO15108 hes referring to different brands that wont sync with specific applications like aura sync, icue, etc
@@zofferz0 never mind *different* brands, I bought a used H700i, realized I need a 2nd exhaust fan, bought an Aer RGB 2, only to find the RGB on that is incompatible with the controller in the case
Oooh yes! The build I had before my current one was from 2013, so the only thing RGB wise was a nzxt hue controller (the OG that fit into the 5.2" bay). So when I build my current setup last October, I was pretty excited about the prospect of having all the rgb things be controllable in the system and even moreso bind them to specific system parameters. At least that was my plan. So you can probably understand my disappointment when I opened RGB Fusion for the first time...
or assuming that your gskill ram will be synced with the other sticks lmaoooo
Bend radius: don't stress cables just to be sure you can hide them.
Also be sure you don't have loose wiring passing in front of the fan. Especially on top of horizontal fans.
What about forgetting to install the I/O shield before inserting the motherboard?
That's a classic and AFAIK some case manufacturers now let you remove the piece that holds the I/O shield separately. Because we've all been there. ^^
Did it to my PC... Never bothered to take everything out to put the I/O shield on.
Mine is still sitting next to my computer waiting for my lazy self to put it in ahahah
No biggie. Sometimes great used mobos come without the shield b/c it was lost.
Does not affect cooling or performance.
Damn! I posted about that before reading your comment! But I upped that, because I damaged my I/O Shield before installing it...
Thank you sir for the video: I was thinking about going with a HYTE, a Liquid cooling system, and a AMD9 with red 120mm cooling fans
Really important tip: Don't try to do cable management with a tweezer.
MFW zipties are now called "tweezers" according to The Verge: :o
I built my pc with tweezers, now my house is in ashes.
Can someone explain to a total newb why not
@@xavier9183 it's a, meme
@@worldseriesofghosts3408 just spent the past hour watching the verge video and reactions and my lord...
Thanks for the cpu fan push vs pull tip. I just changed the conf from pull to push and instantly saw a drop of temps by ateast 10degrees across all cores. That's amazing! Thank you
It might be an interesting experiment, if you have the space and the connector, to add a pull fan as well and see if there's any improvement.
Tip: don't go crazy tightening the screws on the first pass, i.e., before you realize where everything needs to go, and in what order. You can always come back to them later.
In response to this tip, always tighten your screws in a cross pattern. This means you tighten one screw only a little snug, then go the screw directly opposite that screw and tighten it snug. The repeat for the other two screws. Gently move from screw to screw in the same pattern until you cannot snug it down any further. You are done tightening, the screws are at the optimum tightness and the fan or PS or whatever, is fully flush to your system.
My biggest tip is to oversize your case if you can. It plays into a lot of your points about sizing components and it’s SUPER important.
Size limitations for things like dorms or small desks are dealbreakers and you gotta be VERY aware of form factor and how your components are sized if you can’t go with a big tower.
If you can though, definitely opt for an ATX mid or full tower if you can.
Micro ATX with the new Gen Nvidia cards is like trying to squeeze a train through a bank drive thru.
My fractal design define r5 is so huge, and it's a mid tower
Also will be easier to upgrade when new powerhouse gpu gets released
@@kyryloslav 100%; I Bought an ATX mid like a decade ago and it’s been able to comfortably house every upgrade in that time. All it takes is some care to keep it clear of dust and it’s been a reliable case all that time.
Beginner tip you missed out: Switch on the goddamn power supply switch before trying to boot or you'll end up having a heart attack when it won't boot xd
Right, and make sure it's plugged into the wall socket.
i always make sure it's off when i build one with a friend. Works every time hehe
@@crissto8591 I had a panicked friend call me to tell me the new computer he build was dead and he needed help. I went over, looked at it, plugged it into the wall socket and it worked fine. 😂
@@OlettaLiano hehe, happened to me too. It's part of the first builder experience i like to bring to all
@@OlettaLiano like Jays last video testing the GPU 🤣🤣🤣🤣🤣
21:00 Make sure that you're using the right type of cable too. My 144Hz monitor would give me only 60Hz because I was using a HDMI cable instead of a DisplayPort cable.
HDMI only allows up to 60Hz? Or is it dependent on the monitor?
@@TheDeathClawOmlet does depend on monitor but more specifically the HDMI port generation. HDMI 2.0 can do 1440p 120hz and 4k 60hz. But not all monitors support it and might not have freesync/gsync over HDMI.
@@C4PTAINinsano Thanks for the info!
Bought my current monitor from a guy who said it was 144hz, and I realized after a few months of using it that it was 60hz. I tried HDMI and DisplayPort, never went past 60hz. Was thinking of selling it to buy a 144hz monitor, so I looked up the model. It said 144hz could only be accessed with a DVI-D cable. So confusing how 144hz is limited to certain cable types
@@TheDeathClawOmlet Depends on the version of HDMI
The scariest part is when you have your PC built by a store and THEY forget to remove the plastic from the CPU cooler, but you can't do anything about it because you'll void warranty if you remove the cooler, so you have to take it back to the store, surrender your system to them for 45 days, then have them tell you nothing's wrong.
Oh nooo... 0.o
Why is this suspiciously specific
Build it yourself next time
Dude imagine having a job building computers and you miss that.
@@rossfisher8231 A little hard when standalone GPUs are like £3000 and pre-built GPUs are at MSRP.
If you are installing a larger video card make sure to use the included support bracket if supplied, if no bracket, you may need an aftermarket kick stand that screws up and down to take stress off of the PCIE slot.
Remember, no matter what, to alway, ALWAYS, screw with confidence.
I like your style.
That's what she said
And always use a big screw driver...
unless you screw to hard and break somthing
But don't overtighten.. and especially with cpu coolers.. screw in a diagonal pattern
Spring loaded screws are a god send for helping you not over tighten.
You shouldn't need to struggle.. screw until you need to put extra pressure to turn and then leave it.
Even as a veteran PC builder, I’ll say this, if you finished building, plug it all in, and hit the power button but it didn’t power up, don’t go freaking out right away, make sure to check that power switch on the back of the PSU, I’ve done it multiple times and always forget to check it lol
Every....damn...build....
@@Celphirio I've had one where it posted good, but monitors showed nothing, restarted and shut down multiple times, turns out I forgot the cables to the gpu 😅
I feel like these people are the reason tech support always asks “Did you try turning it off and on again”. It’s always the simple things people seem to overlook.
@@RuneScapeGamer97 I mean, I look at every little thing once I forget a simple step, but don't worry all the complicated stuff is properly done before flipping the switch back
06:33 that is exactly what I did on my first build ever. Everything went smooth and temperatures actually looked pretty ok (around 45 C idle), but when I started cinebench for the first time it went to 95 C in like 3 seconds and instantly clocked down. I completely paniced and went through two hours of troubleshooting before I took the cooler off and discovered this little plastic peace of s**t 😂 glad to hear this even happens to pros!
lmfao rn
@@Jack.Offerman *panicked. You forgot the word "panicked" was in the middle of a sentence and forgot to add a period at the end of your own.
thats funny bro aha he you live and you learn
You should create a diagram of each layout of the build. In software like diagram designer what I use.
Create the fan layout sizes, number of fans modes and RPM speeds.
Also mark whether your case is a ATX , ATX-E, micro-ATX
Then once done print it out have it with you when you building your computer.
Pro Tip: Make sure you purchase a power supply that can supply enough power to your build. Purchasing a properly rated power supply is critical to a properly functioning and safe build. As mentioned in the video, power is drawn, not supplied. So, if your system, including MB, Processor, video card, and hdd/sdd needs a certain amount of power, an under rated PS isn't going to last. You will burn it up. If your Video card need 300 W, your MB and chipset needs another 200 W, you will want somewhere in the neighborhood of a 700 W PS minimum. This insures that you have enough rated power to also handle all those peripherals, like powered USB devices, your case fans, liquid cooling pumps, SSD/HDD, etc... It is Okay to get one a lot larger than what you actually need, A 1200W PS does not use 1200W, it just means that it can handle a 1200W draw from the devices in your build. If your system is using 550W of power and you are putting in a 300W PS, you are pulling 150 W more than the PS can handle. This creates a lot of excess heat, components burn up and you will eventually let the magic smoke out of your PS. The mathematical formula for Power (watts) is Voltage (V) x Current/Amps (I) = Watts (P). In the US power runs at 110-120 Volts. That 300W PS can only handle 2.5-2.72 Amps of current. Your system needs 4.5-5 Amps of current, so you are forcing an additional ~2.5 amps through a power supply that is not designed to handle it. I will work for a while, but eventually the PS will die, and sometimes spectacularly, and when it does go, you risk losing your whole computer system to current spikes. TLDR: DON'T USE A PS THAT IS RATED LOWER THAN YOUR COMPUTERS POWER NEEDS, OR YOU WILL BREAK YOUR COMPUTER.
Boughta 1000 W power supply. Should do it
So I'm still acquiring the parts for a 14th gen PC build (my first build in over 10 years). I have the case (NZXT H7 flow), I have the PSU, RM1000x), I have the hydro-Cooler (NZXT Kraken), I also have a set of "Be Quiet" 140mm Case fans,
My question is.. There are 6 fans in the set. 1x 2600 rpm, 2x 1400 rpm & 3x 900 rpm... Where should I be mounting, which fans in my case? I assume the 2600 is for the back. But I'm not certain about the others, bearing in mind the Kraken Hydro-Cooler has a further 2x Fans & the GPU (as yet not purchased will have another 2 or 3 fans). Any advice would be welcome, or even a link to an airflow diagram.
Thanks!!
"Powered is drawn, not supplied" is a good way for people to think about how power gets from the supply to the load, but it is actually supplied. That's why it's called a power supply.
You also risk losing your house in worst case scenarios lol.
Dont be cheap and spend the extra $50 for higher rated psu
You need at least 1200w for 4090 with any 10th generation+ cpu without undervolting a ton
Jay: "The older the GPU the less power it requires."
Me, looking at my 290W 290X: "Yeah, about that..."
and I thought 80c is normal for GPUs
True also my old Radeon 5850 consumed more power based from what specs it had.
Yeah, I'm not really sure what Jay was about there. Power usage by components has waxed and waned in the past. Usually, when a manufacturer (AMD, Intel or nvdia) has issues with a getting on a new architecture, they simply decide to build the old ones bigger and run them at higher voltages and clock speeds. That's what leads to high power usage. Switching to a smaller production process almost always leads to way better power consumption.
lol same. I had 2 but with crossfire dead for gaming the other is just collecting dust in the box now cdna.pcpartpicker.com/static/forever/images/userbuild/146234.611cd89684759555787658bb45e4d09c.1600.jpg
AMD Radeon HD 6990 375W max
GeForce GTX 590 365W max
coming back to this vid in 1 year when the market is running normally
It aint coming back to normal as long as covid is around, and that will stick around for years unfortunatly.
1 year later you remember this comment and chuckle at how naive you were back then. Then you eat a rad roach and drink anti-rad afterwards to prevent poisoning.
Nvidia said there’ll be shortages until at least Q.3
Mostly likely these prices will be better than next years.
It's not all because of covid. It's because of many things. Not least of all is good ole fashion greed.
Thanks for this video. I am going to be building my first computer in like 8 years and have not kept up on current trends and technology. Lots of little things that have changed or I have just forgotten in that time. This is a great primer. Thanks.
Jayz: "the last thing you want to do is to create some crazy turbulence in your case"
Airflow in my case: " hurricane katrina"
Why did I read that as hurricane katana? Someone has been watching too much anime lately
More like hurricane tortilla
🤣😂🤣
Making sure you have enough fan headers on your motherboard for your build or buy a fan hub.
The efficient fan configuration, pushing air and not pulling, was a revelation to me. Thank you.
I am semi confused. I have an 7900XTX which has three 8pin connectors. My PSU only included two tables for PCIE, one that is an 8-to-8 and one that is a 8-to-16 (using pigtails).
Should I not use the above setup? The video mentions not using pigtails. My PSU is a Corsair RM850e.
Be careful when installing the rear io shield. They are stamped metal with super sharp edges. When you use your thumb or palm to push it in and it is hard going in you can easily slit a big wound into your hand. Recommend to wear thick glove with padding for this particular part.
That's what the handle of the screwdriver is for
Why not deburr, chamfer, and burnish the edges? It takes but a minute.
As a former aviation metalsmith, I simply cannot abide burrs, sharp metal edges, and non-rounded corners.
Never had this problem
@@maurice482390 That's probably because unless you're buying a pretty cheap ass motherboard the IO shield is often pre-attached. I've built 3 computers and not a single one has had a separate IO shield.
@@marksroberts4880 the dude abides
double.. no triple check if the mobo spacers are in the right spot.
saves on short circuits when booting and creating a solid base for the mobo.
Built many PCs, but I still learned something from this video. That push config is a lot better than pull through a CPU cooler. I didn't know this and thought difference was negligible. Thanks Jayz :)
Pull config through a top mounted water cooler block is a good config don't take physics advice from youtubers just the computer advice.. maybe sometimes not even that haha. but other than that part this was a good vid.
I’ve been building computers for over 30 years now and the best part about building a computer today is having UA-cam reviews on almost every part you’ll ever want to use. I just built a TT Tower300 and I watched a ton of video builds with that case and I knew exactly what I wanted and what was going to work and what wouldn’t work.