@@Finduh Yeah but there are things to consider like ddr4 cl 16 4000 mhz is better than ddr5 7000 mhz with cl 40 and most ddr5 are cl30+, its not clear to everyone.
@@-T--T-Not to mention some "older" CPUs dont even officially support stuff past "3200" or if really old, 2666, so getting 3600 ddr4 would be either waste of money or cause unstable weird stuff. But it could also work. But why gamble like that? Are you gonna gain 20 fps with that "400" extra (genuine question cos idk with ddr4)
I entirely agree ! As super simple as one would think that RAM is, it's quite the opposite. And I've been there a lot, with troubleshooting RAM, in over 15 years as an IT technician. A video covering the basics but also a more in depth dive would be very useful. Not only for a novice but also for a tech savvy guy. Because hardware always evolves and changes occur.
Jayz discusses five things that are a waste of money when building or upgrading a PC. The first point is about oversized power supplies, advising against buying a power supply that is too large for your needs, as it can be costly and unnecessary. The second point is about overspending on RAM, highlighting that while RAM capacity, speed, and timings can impact performance, many users can get by with 16GB of DDR4 running at 3,800 MHz for gaming. Jayz cautions against getting caught up in the latest RAM technologies and spending more than necessary. The third point is about the fallacy of "gaming edition" products, emphasizing that any PC can be a gaming PC if it can run games, and that the term "gaming" is often used in marketing to attract buyers. Jayz also talks about high-end, custom PCB graphics cards, highlighting that while these cards may offer marginal improvements over standard models, the price difference is often not justified. Lastly, Jayz discusses storage, specifically NVMe drives, pointing out that while PCIe Gen 5 offers significant performance gains, most users will not notice the difference in everyday use, making it a potential area to save money.
I built my first pc to be a full RGB build and i got so sick of rgb that the only LEDs in my new build are a screen on the aio pump and the debug lights on the motherboard.
4 (four) Million SUBSCRIBER Milestone ACHIEVED @JayzTwoCents || Don't always agree with everything Jay, but, the great thing is your one of the only Tech UA-camrs willing to also listen and improve as our bellowed tech hopefully continues to fruitfully evolve... Either way your soothing voice always gives me a very nice tech buzz. Thankyou and try to continue finding that fine line between enthusiast and the every mans tech expert. Congratulations Mate luv from Australia! || WE DO TECH STUFF HERE || "No one should limit us in the realm of possibilities. We can all play a part in innovation pressing forward."
Yeah but adding 1-2 Games that we _know_ scale with memory timings. e.g. ArmA3 or Squad. (even though they might be impossible to benchmark, as they are ~100 Player MP games) Reason is, so we know when we get diminishing returns in good scaling games. ;)
He can't even get his 7200mhz ram stable in his tests. Referring to 3-4 video's back. Losing 25% performance, stating it's "no difference to upgrade speeds",
This is true, I have a Herman miller chair but Jesus Christ they’re way more expensive. Thankfully I have a family member who works for an office furnishing company
I got a leap v2 refurbished. You never know it was used before. Everything looks brand new. Wonderful chair as well. I wasted money on my first pc chair lasted a 7 month was horrible to sit at. This one will last for me till I'm old.
The cheapest site usually being used on eBay, I usually start there for the higher price parts like CPU/GPU. Sometimes you can find really good deals on parts that weren't even used much at all some creator just needed them for testing or it was an open box deal.
Three sides… third: buying over-specced components we don’t need (YET) and that we can probably NEVER fully utilize (like i.e.the PCIe5.0 storage) into our mostly un-BALANCED custom PC builds for us enthusiasts 🤣🤣🤣
Yeah I think this would be extremely helpful for myself as well because I'm actually looking to upgrade my RAM because 16gigs just isn't enough. Seems a lot of games I play have a bit of a memory leak and even just an hour on them and they crash. I'm also a disgusting human being leaving 6-7 tabs open on my browser while playing. My RAM just constantly sitting at 80-90% usage it seems.
@@popmagic9006This is absolutely true now. 16 gigs isn't enough for gaming. It's mostly to do with two things. First is that Gaming industry culture rn is to release games in half baked forms with a lot of bugs. There are always memory leaks in games especially in ones with AI heavy opponents or open world components. 2nd is that Chrome is the most commonly used web browser and it's a resource hog as everybody knows. That thing occupies ram usage like it's nobody else's business. If you have a dual monitor setup(quite common nowadays) and want to listen to music, you will have a few tabs open. Also, i'm not to sure about it but i believe windows also reserves upto 4gb for itself as it is.
@@popmagic9006 6-7 tabs are nothing. It shouldnt matter in ram usage that much. The browser itself would take the most memory from you not its tabs. The tabs are optimized not take ram or use minimal amount when not used.
@thenortonanti Ddr4 3200 cl18 has the same letancy as ddr5 6400 cl 36 in theory. The only advantage here for ddr5 is 2x bandwidth. It is actually more than 2x but let keep it simple
I turned my old HTPC PLEX Server into a “Gaming PC” by adding a used from eBay 3080ti Founders Edition (for $585) to the Intel 11900K already in there. It’s black, no lights, no frills, looks like an AVR Receiver… and kicks butt on any game I throw at it. Great video Jay.
I work in a PC repair shop and I can't tell you how many people try and build super high end systems and end up bringing them to me to do correctly. It wasn't a trend until UA-camrs started getting free parts from vendors and pushing excessive computers. It's a trend that needs to stop, it's driving inflation on parts, causing waste and extra cost for people over their heads and making consoles look more appealing. No one needs a threadripper and 4090 for Fortnite. No one needs those in any gaming computer. Threadripper is like home server grade CPU and a 4090 is a Titan replacement for workstations doing things like game development.
Pffff, can’t just upgrade a few things in an HP or Dell. They can’t just have a boring black box. They absolutely _NEED_ RGB unicorn vomit, every part color matched, and A E S T H E T I C S of a really cool looking system to do web surfing.
I agree man. those "dream build $20k" or a "$50k over the top dream build" but they literally just spent mostly on things they won't use after few months. I'm just jealous that they can spend on expensive things that easily but I think people NEED to be more reasonable and practical for their builds.
Tbf, I'm a die hard PC gamer but for laptops, the M series macbooks are undefeated when it comes to efficiency/screen on time. Gotta give credit where its due.
I agree with you on iPhones! Even the new ones are shit! I just got a new one and it fucking sucks so badly! Apple has fallen into that group of companies that just use their brand as an excuse to charge more for shit products, I will say, however, their laptops are the only thing that’s remotely half decent and reliable, But I’m a hardcore PC traditionalist!
The informative “talking head” segments (without any favoritism), are sorely few and far between. Thanks Jay, I personally appreciate your down to earth way of simplifying topics for everyone, new, and the seasoned individuals out there.
I feel like Jay would have trouble sleeping if he didn’t try to inform his audience of worthless things. I believe that is what keeps him down to earth and why I personally enjoy his content. Love these vids!
I love your videos because you speak very clearly and directly and therefore I ask you if you recommend buying Windows 11 and Office? It is a very real doubt
I hope your answer is the same as mine and that is yes and you always get it from pages that have the licenses to sell them like BNH Software for greater peace of mind.
buying Windows is legally required if you want to use Windows - GNU/Linux exists if you don't *need* Windows. Buying MS Office (legally required to use MS Office) on the other hand is a different proposition since there are alternatives out there that'll work for most use-cases just as fine as MS Office, like LibreOffice
Yes, I'm not so sure the 16GB max is quite as good as he was suggesting. With the costs as they are right now I would just go with 32GB as a starting point and only go lower if I know it's not going to be needed, or really trying to cut the cost. Currently sitting here with a Win10 machine with three screens just streaming a few windows and browsing, and my 32GB system is using 14GB right now. Personally, I would rather drop the RAM speed a bit but increase the total.
@@gordon861 I think it's more of, 16GB is going to be sufficient for *most* people for gaming, for the vast majority of games. There are definitely a number of games that could utilize more, and if you play those games, then going up to 32GB is fine - but even those games will tend to only use a bit over that 16GB, and nowhere near the full 32GB. If you never play those games - or don't play them on high enough settings to require more than 16GB - then spending the extra money on the extra RAM can be a waste. Also, with the way Windows utilizes RAM and pagefile/virtual memory, even if your computer is reporting that it is "using" 14GB of RAM... it's probably actually not keeping all of that in the physical RAM itself. A significant portion of that is probably only in virtual memory. Even when you plenty of physical RAM to use, Windows doesn't generally keep every bit of allocated memory in the RAM itself. You can somewhat force it to do so by only allocating a tiny amount of virtual memory, but that can cause its own issues.
While I agree 32gb might be excessive still, 16gb is started to become minimum specs for many games coming out recently. I would suggest more than 16 but unless you had the budget and wanted to waste money I wouldn't suggest 32gb unless you got them on sale or something.
With this include how older timing with the smaller ram compares with the higher timing of new stuff. My build from 15 yrs ago had 4GB at 7-7-7-7 but my new 32GB is at 36-36-36-96. With the timings higher is there a difference or does the throughput make up for that?
One thing I know about DDR5, it's hard to get high speeds with 4 sticks unless you have a high end overclocking motherboard and binned high end CPU. And for gaming it's not that worth it.
I think it is also quite easy to overspend on a case. If you are on a budget or care more about function vs form, lean towards a basic case with decent airflow.
Not really. Case choice is much more about actual quality, both from a build quality perspective, but especially performance. A lot of the cheaper cases just plain suck when it comes to thermal performance.
@@AB-80X It depends what you are going for. I have seen plenty of PC's have no case and/custom case that didn't even start as a PC case. Even a cheap case that is not sealed off (decent airflow) will work just fine. A case is not necessary to have a working PC. It is just there for protection and looks.
This was a very helpful video. I have not built a PC in over 20 years, and only just started going down the rabbit hole, looking at parts picker to build a mid range machine. I really like your presentation style, easy for the layperson, and straight to the point.
The powersupply was a major oversight on my part, I was a first time builder...I didn't have people helping me buy parts. The thing is though, the 1000w psu had the same price with the 850w psu required for my rig. I still love it though. I can overclock the crap out of my components without worrying if my psu can supply it.
Having too much power is also a good thing because it will have lower load, meaning less temperature and bigger lifespan. If you need 800, going 1000 is not a bad idea, especially for 0 to 20$ more (assuming same efficiency)
If something is branded as "gaming" these days, just know that you can find the non-gaming version of it for around 50-70% cheaper with a little bit of effort and searching. It's sort of like buying a car. Just because it has stripes on it's paintjob doesn't mean it's better. It might be 1% faster because it has stripes, but it most certainly doesn't mean better.
Motherboards are my favorite part to waste my money on. Do i need a 450 doller x670e Taichi motherboard? No the 120 doller model would perform just as good. But the taichi has 24 power phases. A 7800x3d does NOT need that much power, lol. But it looks nice, even though it's tucked away inside a desk out of sight... lol😂
What you pointed out about "gaming" and specially monitors is very true. I had two gaming monitors in the past that while having good refresh rates, I never managed to like the colors enough, always felt like everything was washed out, at some point I got a similarly priced TV that has game mode (144Hz and low latency) and it ended up delivering a way better experience, even though it has zero RGB, no curved display, etc. Chairs are other thing, too. I never owned one of those very high end gaming chairs to tell, but the one I had was really badly built compared to a similarly priced office chair, not to mention ergonomics.
Great vid Jay. All super important info. It's also easy to overspend on a motherboard. Getting features you will never use especially if you don't plan on overclocking. Which also means air cooling is just fine, so there is money to be saved there as well
Yeah I can agree, especially with people sometimes really focusing on certain features that basically have zero actual use. I specifically have in mind those motherboard armors that basically covers the entire back of the board, they do nothing. Another small one is additional nvme heatsinks, for the most part you likely wont need them for day to day use (idk about pcie gen 5), you are not going to be hitting them at their hardest at all. I do appreciate putting one on the main drive directly connected to the cpu but the addition of one for the other slots connected to the chipset is something that just unnecessarily drives up the cost.
Some air coolers are actually within a few C* and when you look at the pricing and performance of thermalright you would be silly to waste so much on water.
@@samuelvanlane For sure especially if you aren't trying to push it to its limits. In my kids computer he has my old 10900k, although hot, AIO is not needed for normal use. However overclocking that thing it gets extremely warm and having a 360mm EK AIO definitely helps keep it under tjmax
Isn't it massively hypocritical from this channel? here is my 3 tip :1 buy sweet spot mid range, 2 no overclocking, 3 no window case. Don't thank me your PC just got 3 to 5 times cheaper with no visible real life difference in usage.
almost ten years ago, i decided to build my own pc for the first time, and your videos helped me out so much. now it's time for a new system, and i'm just happy you are still at it, even more so debunking the industry bs that has become rampant in the industry in the last few years. thanks a lot jay
I'm in the same boat, PC almost ten years old now and at the end of the line for upgrades (still has DDR3 and the socket is a 2011 that got discontinued relatively quickly). Still have the assembly knowhow but trying to get a handle on what the good middleground is in terms of performance and value with the new gen hardware.
This is me as well. Lga 1151 mobo and rx470 gpu. Its like i got stuck in a time warp with how much things have evolved over the last 8+ years. Still dont know if Im going intel or Amd cpu.
----- @Sonicstillpoint83 ----- - A RAM-based 'Hat Trick' would have been the ultimate video... 'Amount' vs 'Speed' vs 'Timings' As an added bonus... 'Out of the Box' vs 'Tweaked' Now that would be considered a 'Wet Dream'-scenario if you ask me. -----
When you benchmark different speeds and timings, the difference is mostly negligible in terms of percentage. Memory is rarely a bottleneck because it's so fast, but the prices vary a lot.
Good point! There are so many ways to save money on a PC build. Skipping on the customizable RGB fanciness, on the 'gaming' branded stuff, excessive memory or watts or clocks or RPMs that you don't really need for what you actually use your PC for, etc. can save a lot of money. The only colored lights in my case are on my fans and they are just blue. They can't be controlled by software or anything expensive like that. They just light up blue, spin fast and don't make much noise. That's all I need from them. I've also saved a lot of money by re-using parts from previous builds. My monitors have displayed the graphics from three computers at this point. I game at 1080p and have no interest in resolutions above that, so I don't bother buying anything that is capable of working with resolutions above 1080p. I have seen many monitor and GPU combos that are running at higher resolution and I honestly can't tell that they look any better than the same content playing at 1080p. Some say that higher resolutions look 'sharper'. I can make my monitors and TV look 'sharper' by adjusting the sharpness setting without getting a 'high resolution' gadget. I'm also using the same 650 watt PSU that I had in my previous build. My keyboard and trackball mouse are from a previous build too. They were good quality peripherals so I didn't wear them out before. Spending just a little bit more to get good quality for parts that take a lot of abuse like keyboards and mice is worth it as they last longer. Meanwhile, I save money by skimping on things that are mostly decorative like cases. I get cases with plexiglass windows rather than tempered glass, for example. Makes for a cheaper case that is also lighter to carry and still does the job of holding all the parts together. I also don't bother with buying more storage than I need. My NVME SSD is 500 GB for my C: drive. It's plenty. I never have enough games and other software on it to move the bar graph above 60% full. I am still using the non solid state hard drive from three computers ago for storing my pictures, documents etc. It's a 1 terabyte size one and I can't fill it up even by putting every file I currently own on it. Speaking of memory, I do have 32 GB of RAM, but it is DDR4 and it's Corsair's basic RAM without any fancy lights on it. I re-used 16 GB of it from a previous build and then got another 16 on a sale that matched the old ram in specs. I save money by getting used or 'refurbished' parts. Like my current graphics card. It's an EVGA 1660 Super. That is far from the latest and greatest graphics card, I know, but it exceeds the recommended system requirements of the games and software that I run, so it's all I need. I got it on Ebay from a seller who accepts free returns for two months no questions asked. That's a pretty good warranty for a used GPU. I got it last November and it's been running just great every day since then. I'm not surprised though since EVGA was one of the best GPU makers ever. It's like my grandpa used to say about buying used cars: better to get a good quality car used than a cheaply made car new. Finally, I watch for big sales. All of the new parts that I used to build my current PC were from Black Friday sales last November. I didn't pay full price for any of it. I spent something like $750 on my current PC by doing all of this. Left a lot of money in the ol budget for getting some new games.
Yes, would love a super detailed technical video on RAM, especially highlighting example scenarios on why high cost maximum performance RAM might matter
Balancing budget on RAM performance depends on what you'll use is the most difficult part of building a PC. There's too much variable to consider like DDR versions, capacity, frequency, latency, rank, buffer, channel, and much more The only thing to note from me is: brand doesn't matter. Just get the perfect combination of variables i listed above and get that combination as cheap as possible no mater the brand. Any RAM dead very rarely even most manufacturers dares to provide a lifetime warranty
@@BoraHorzaGobuchul For most applications, the standard ram timings at the speed that your ram is listed for should work.... no need to finagle settings because you are just wasting time there unless you are benchmarking, then it gets expensive really quickly.... in other words, the stock RAM settings work for most applications.
RGB has been talked about constantly, but one of the things I don't see talked about enough is white parts, I have several friends that have opted for all white builds. it makes sense since the standard is usually black so they're charging you essentially for the white paint or plastic, but like it starts to add up
No clue which parts your friends are buying or where they are buying them from, but I went with an all white PC and paid the same price for the parts as it's black counterparts. For example the Lian Li Unifans I am running are the same price in white or black.
Tried to find a new 1080p gaming monitor for a new all-white build for my oldest son but gave up and bought a black one due to very limited options and higher prices in white bezels. I'm just not willing to pay a huge colorway premium. We can always add white vinyl adhesive to the front to make a two-tone look for $10-$15 if we want to later on.
I'm an ITX builder, keep my rig inside of a filing cabinet. 16GB DDR4(IDR the timing), 5700X, 7800XT, a 2TB PCIE4 M.2 and housed in a SUGO 14. It's 100% air-cooled, neatly cabled, utterly silent and runs my games on high-1440 - It does what I want and will continue to do so for the next 2-3yrs, at which point I'll upgrade the 7800XT, might have to upgrade the RAM for the new Civ game and keep it for another 2-3yrs. I'm a huge believer in KISS - No LEDs, no need for custom cards unless that's all the market has. I'm not looking to break 500FPS so I stick with relatively budget kits. I'll spend $40 on 2-3 case fans and then more on a low-profile, silent cooler.
Classy builds are the best. There's one thing I do in my builds. I install a short 20-30 cm single LED strip somewhere where I can't see it. In my Hyte Y70 it's up behind the fans. Why? If something is off, I have an inspection light in a black on black machine in a dimly lit office. Have done this for years. A bit gimmicky, but beats a flash light.
I have the same, a 7800xt GPU, but I'm running the 5900x cpu with 32gb 3600mhz ram. Air cooled. My GPU and PSU rarely hit the high 60s and I only have 6 fans, 3 in and 3 out. Also minimal RGB because the same fans were on sale that had it and so did my GPU.
Thank you for this content. I have been in IT for 30+ years, but most of that time was dealing with mid-range computers like the AS/400. I didn't need the knowledge about the internals until about 2006 when I started repairing desktops and laptops. About 8 years ago I transitioned to the administrative side and stopped working on computers. I recently started thinking about building a "gaming" rig and discovered just how out of the loop I had become. Your content has helped clear up a lot of things for me. (Although, still overwhelmed.)
As far as power supplies, when I started, they were as little as 135 watts, and now they go to 1200 watts. Yet, over the years, if you bought a higher wattage power supply, it often had to be replaced when you upgraded anyway because the connectors had changed. The new modular power supplies may help with that somewhat, but even then, my son had to upgrade his modular power supply when he went to a 14900k because he needed an extra 6 or 8 pin connector, if I recall. However, when it comes to power supplies, quality does matter. You don't want power fluctuations, nor do you want your computer to crash with a slight flicker in the incoming line voltage. Sadly, price seems to have pushed the high quality power supplies out of the market because no one will pay for them. You used to be able to buy some real tanks of power supplies that had 2-5x as many windings, meaning a lot more impedance and stability. It also meant they weighed far more, perhaps 2x as much, so they were easy to spot. All current power supplies seem to be the light weight variety. [If you want to reduce from 120 volts to 12 volts you can do it with 5 loops of wire around a conductor on one side, and 50 loops on the other side round the same conductor. Or, you could do it with 25 loops on one side, and 250 loops on the other side, which will have far more impedance and stability.] Since I keep my cpu under the desk, out of view, besides RGB, my biggest waste would be the glass-walled cases, which are more expensive, and often have worse airflow as a bonus.
I've never replaced a power supply since my first PC in 1989. My current one is using the same cables and connectors as that first one in 1989. There are adapters for anything new that I might get, but additional drives are external, so my power supply is not going to have anything at all added to its load.
@@bite-sizedshorts9635 I know that you can get adapters from the old power connectors to the ones for devices that arrived with the move from IDE to SATA, but what about the motherboard and GPU connectors? The old motherboards and GPUs did not have separate power connectors at all, so obviously the power supplies had no connectors for them. I do like the older, larger power supplies because they had a lot more windings, so they were very stable, but their overall wattage caps were low, usually 250-400 watts. Additionally, you had to be careful about power draw at specific voltages, rather than just being concerned about total draw.
Going overkill on CPU cooling when it isn't needed. Every CPU doesn't need an AIO or a Noctua DH-15. My first build had a Ryzen 7 3700x and i was looking at $100+ coolers to put on it because i just didnt know any better, thankfully did enough research to just settle for the cooler that came with it. 3 years with the stock prism cooler, no problems. I've upgraded PCs since but I easily could have added $100-$150 to a build when I didnt need to.
This is definitely it. I had the Ryzen stock cooler, and I upgraded to a Noctua NH-U12S. Not liquid, no dual towers, heck not even dual fans on it. And the result? My overclocked Ryzen 5 1500X (I know lol) NEVER EXCEEDED 65C and 900 rpm on the fan. I literally could not get it to go higher than that, even running everything at 100%. The cooler wasn't even running at full speed (1500rpm)! And this cooler is like 2 tiers below the NH-D15. And it still has room for a second fan, it even comes with the mounting hardware for it! And guess what was the BIGGEST gain? Sound. The noise reduction gained by going from a 2000 rpm 92mm fan to a 1500rpm (max) 120mm fan was very noticeable, even with my Define R5 case.
I hate when seeing people using an AIO on a 6 core CPU. That thing can run on a stock cooler just a bit louder. Using an AIO will net almost 0% performance boost, just that it's be quieter. Get a good air cooler for that.
Ryzen stock coolers are definitely one of the best. If only Intel could've done what AMD did. I always always have to change out my Intel Stock cooler after a few years because the feet locks just breaks because the plastic is either brittle or it bends itself somehow
Still have my nh-d14, cost me £55/60 back in 2012/2013 best investment into cpu cooling, has limited my case options which I want smaller than over a decade ago😅 it is time for some new fans though.
Water cooling. Never used it, or needed it. Been building PC's since 1990. Gaming hardcore before that on consoles and still fly Microsoft Flight Sim2020, and play games. Thanks Jayz.
Watercooling has always been unnecessary...It's something that you do for fun or to just make you system look nice...I always watercool my PCs because I like the way it looks and I enjoy building it, but it is definitely not necessary...
@@brucepreston3927you couldn’t be more wrong saying it’s never needed. I’ve been building PC’s for 25+ Years and yes for the average gamer they don’t need it. That being said, ANYONE running a 13700K/14700K or 13900K/14900K should absolutely be water cooling. ESPECIALLY IF THEY ARE DOINY ANY KIND OF OVERCLOCKING. If you have a Case like the O11 Dynamic EVO with the entire Case Full of Fans in the proper Configuration (3 Fans at the Top, Bottom, Side, and 1 Fan at Rear) along with your house staying quite cool you could probably use a Air Cooler (A Decent to Best Quality) and run a 13700K/14700K
Thank you for the video, great advice. My PC build is approaching 8 years old. When I built it, I had in mind that I wanted to make it last at least 8 years with the better components. Now, I am looking to make a new build in order to run Windows 11. So this means I will need an almost new build with the exception of case, PS, cooler and hopefully I won't have to replace my 1TB SSD card with all my system needs on it. Does anyone see a reason to replace the SSD if I am upgrading MB and CPU?
God I love Jay and the channel. Everything you ever needed to know about PCs explained in a no nonsense easy to understand format. Because of Jay, I now build top of the line systems when I didn’t even know how to install a GPU a few years ago. Prebuilt computers were all I knew. Thank you Jay and the gang!
I bought my 3080 the year they came out! GPU's were wicked scarce! Buying a founders card for me wasn't an option. I have a 3080 ASUS TUF OC and it plays all of my games at high fps on my 1440p monitor. Very happy it's still all I need.
I feel this. I have no issues with my strix 3080 oc running 1440p max settings....yet every video i see shows how its being outdone by new 4070s etc. and i keep thinking i need to upgrade to something like a 7900xtx or a 4080 for absolutely zero reason if i don't go to 4K along with it.
Me too, I jumped the gun two days after launch on the very same ASUS RTX 3080 OC, and running 1440 it is plenty enough. I had to wait 5 months for it to arrive, but didn't have to pay anything until I got it and at launch price. I have added 32 more Gb of RAM since then and uses this in MSFS which can act up and double load files. Better to have too much RAM than not being able to get two more of the same sticks when you need it. I have switched from a 3700X to the 5800X3D and are good for several years now. I still use the then overkill 2013 build 850watt PSU. My oldest setup 3700K and 16Gb RAM is still singing in my daughters build. But I think she will skip ahead in the next and go AM5.
The only small quibble I have with Jay's list here is the amount of RAM. Not because of gaming, but web browsing and general OS use. Just booting Windows these days with a very basic setup, Steam, Discord, and a chrome/edge/firefox open with 6-12 tabs, you can EASILY eat 10 GB of RAM, and it only goes up from there. The difference in price between 16 (2x8) and 32 (2x16) is so small, just spend the extra $20-30. Speed is important, to a point, after that "sweet spot" is reached, the only need for a sped bump is for OC'ing, but amount of RAM, ... 32GB. I say this as someone who has been running 16 GB for 10+ years, and on my next system I'm bumping to 32 GB.
This. He said 32GB is all you should ever never and I about choked on my drink. 64GB should be the standard for most gamers. 32 is the minimum. Watch your RAM usage just during normal usage and you'll see it easily fills up quickly just with web browsing and light gaming. Heavy hitting games like Star Citizen will soak up 50-60GB of RAM if you have it available
I only have 8GB and have no problem with multiple programs running and dozens of browser windows open when I'm working on genealogy. I can have audio streaming, software recording the audio, word processing software open for work, browser windows open for research, and downloading files from Usenet, all at the same time. I don't know how more RAM would help me, except put off rebooting for a month or two more. I try to have the computer doing something 24/7 and keep it on for weeks or even months before Windows leaves enough crap stuck in the memory to gag the computer.
@@bite-sizedshorts9635You're probably drive caching I'd bet. It's seamless, and you generally don't notice it with multiple low/medium memory usage apps anymore with NVME speeds, but if you have any apps or games that use big chunks of RAM all at once, 8 GB will not be enough. Given the cost, why would anyone only want 8 GB (2x4) of RAM? 16 GB (2x8) is the same price, and probably less these days, and depending on the day, 32 GB (2x16) might be the same price as 16 GB.
@@Djrendezvous99 using an alpha tested only game which isnt even optimized properly is a bad example for gaming 32gb is fine and you can get away with 16gb easily but if you are building a new PC I would recommend 32gb ram 64 is overkill but if you have the budget then go for it
This was the best video I have seen you do. I sincerely appreciate you calling out the marketing hype designed to confuse buyers and upsell. Not many youtubers do this. Thank you!
My obsession with cable management, I even cable manage the cables behind the mobo tray with zip-ties, black electrical tape and clear nail polish to keep said tape from curling up.
One of the biggest wastes of money is buying like $500 motherboard for a CPU that would work literally EXACLTY the same on a $100 board. So ultimately, the BIGGEST offender is that people are aiming for looks instead of performance. (And I'm guilty of this myself)
The biggest offenders are the manufacturers misinforming the public to make them believe their budget offerings are sh*t - and actually actively making them that. They're forcing the market into the high-margin top tier.
I was buying motherboard right now. And for me the most important was connectivity. And you can't buy cheap mobo with like 4 slots for M2 Gen 4. I already have 2 drives on it. And still I can put more if I go out of storage. Will be cheaper to add one then buy bigger new and replace . Especially that in time price will drop. Before I had quite expensive mobo asus formula v with i7 3770k and it's still working. And I use 7 ports of sata on it wich with cheap mother board won't be possible. So you can't go too cheap if you want something for years
All solid advice. I've built two towers and have gone through multiple workstations, but it's been a while since I had to spec out a new build. I am confident that I picked the right parts for my build this time around.
Very well explained. I wish there were more videos out there to explain this sort of stuff to IT newbies, or people just trying to figure out how to build their first PC. Now I work in the IT industry, and have recently gone through my five-year-cycle of building a new system from the ground up, and the amount of money I - could - have wasted was staggering. So you're probably saving a lot of people a lot of money, if they see this before buying. I like it.
Jay... the biggest reason for the price difference in those NVME M.2's (P3, P3 Plus and the T700) is the that the P3 variants are DRAM Cacheless drives and the T700 has a DRAM Cache....I agree with you though, for most users doing normal daily computing stuff... the P3 would be fine but if you need sustained high write speeds... you are going to need a DRAM Cache!
how is dram cache going to make my games load faster? it isn't? oh. well surely 12000MB/sec reading is better than some 3000mb/sec reading, on games right? better than 500mb/sec reading, right? games comes up instantly on 12000? no? its the same speed? oh. maybe you should explain who uses dram and for what, when you talk of dram. is it just for processing videos, which i will be making 24/7 at work if i am video processor server at work? and once a year at home? okay.
@@Redmanticore They didn't say anything about making games load faster, not sure why you immediately went there. They said "if you need sustained high write speeds." Those people can identify themselves, and they probably know what they need it for. Not to mention, they said "sustained high _write"_ and all you're talking about is read speeds. Not sure why you're acting like they're supposed to give a lecture on everything about DRAM cache just because they mentioned it. But yes, a faster drive absolutely does make a difference _in some games._ Recently I had the Dead Space Remake installed on a slower drive at first, and there was a ridiculous amount of stuttering. Basically unplayable. Moved the install to a much faster nvme drive and suddenly it was fine. Star Citizen also benefits from a really fast drive, and is basically unplayable on slower ones. Ever since consoles finally started using SSD's, faster drives are becoming more of a requirement for some games.
I mean RGB in general is a big one too. A lot of the minor products can be considerably cheaper if you look for the versions without RGB. Even if it's only saving a few dollars here and there it adds up. A lot of the time you can find a non-RBG version of the same case, fans, coolers etc for a good % cheaper than the RBG versions. PLUS in a lot of cases it saves you the headache of actually getting all the RBG wired up properly and configured in software.
False. RGB or ARGB have its legitimate use. You can have it on "smart" to indicate the temps rather than looking at a secondary display for system monitoring or overlays to block estate on your main display. It even more useful in an enclosed case with smoked transparent side panel or non-transparent panels; you can troubleshoot from the outside which fans aren't spinning due to tangled cables or fault (especially for SFF).
@@ningensan8198Most RGB software have that feature where you tag specific temps threshold at preferred colours. The usual motherboard RGB software offerings like Asus Aura has that feature as well; even OpenRGB is capable of doing it via Hardware Sync plugin.
I bought a 1000W Corsair supply in 2013. It's still right here, chugging along. I think a *bit* of extra dosh into the quality of something as critical as the PSU can very easily give its ROI
But you could have spent 50-100aud on a basic 500W PSU that still runs most normal midrange builds, over the same time period... Btw what was the return?
I disagree about the "overspend" on PSUs. 500W does not cut it. You can barely run an RX 6700 XT, Ryzen 7 5700X or higher. The thing with modern PCs is you want to minimize upgrades. A 750W PSU is the sweetspot. I have an RX 7800 XT, Ryzen 7 5700X and I use a lot of my USB ports. I wouldn't even recommend a 600W for a modern gaming PC. EDIT: I also want to mention that the price difference of a 600W PSU and a 750W PSU isn't a big difference. In fact you'll save money when you get a 750+W Gold PSU to use for the entire life of your PC then to buy a 600W, realize it isn't enough when you want to upgrade and then you need to buy another PSU. Think smart. Work hard and smart. Get paid and have a good PC that lasts a long time.@@RexNathanChan
I have a 2600 (65W), RX480 (150W) or Vega56 (210W). Add in LSI HBA cards, HDD, fans, mb/RAM, thats max 300W? So for me, a 350W PSU will be fine, but you can only buy min 450W. I am using a BeQuiet System Power 9 500W PSU. Most normal people keep their systems the same for 5+ years, so it makes economic sense to buy the minimum you need for your current system. Are you gonna re-use a 10y old PSU when you upgrade in 10yrs or buy a new one? A basic 500W PSU is $60-100AUD, vs $200+ AUD for 750W+ monsters. Sure, if you have a high TDP CPU (100W?) and high end GPU (3080 needs 350W), then min 500W makes sense, perhaps buying a 600W is ok. also PSU gets less efficient running at low loads, so you will draw more power from the wall in an oversized PSU@@noobbotgaming2173 Using your example: RX6700XT (230W), 5700X (65W), thats total 300W, plus extras, say 350-400W actual draw at max, So a 450-500W PSU will be fine. I think you greatly over-estimate how much power you need, or have not done the calcs. :P RX7800XT TDP is only 263W, add 100W for max CPU, still only draw 400-450W, so 500-550W PSU is fine. BTW how does USB ports matter? Can you draw rthat much from USB 3.0 or USB-C?
ok, I looked up USB standard on wiki and without PD (power delivery), mac USBC is 15W, so say 6x 7.5W USBA ports plus 2x 15W USBC=75W@@noobbotgaming2173
@@RexNathanChan Every PSU matters. Extra room is always nice to have. I don't understand the bare-minimum-upgrade-later mentality. Like I said with the cheap prices of PSUs you may as well save time and money and buy a higher watt PSU. My current PC has an RX 7800 XT. When I first had my computer I had a 450W PSU. RX 580 and Ryzen 5 3600. Kept crashing during gaming until I figured out my PSU was too low. So I upgraded to 600W and no more crashes. And I live in Canada and even with our prices the PSU is not an expensive purchase.
There are two sides to that coin. You can spend on "fancy" fans with RGB or LCD. However, you can also spend money on high performance fans. But it depends on what you're doing. Those of us who overclock o make video editing and transcoding faster to save actual time, and who don't want to listen to the fans too much, can benefit from a well designed fan.
I got a 5 pack of Arctic fans for the same price as 1 of those fans. Figured if they didn't work well enough I could just replace them later but I haven't seen a reason to.
When I decide to build I take months finding stuff on sale rather than just going out and buying stuff at whatever the current price is. I gotta have it now is the biggest wast of money I know of. Last build I ended up with a super flower 1200w 80 plus platinum leadex se when I was only looking for 750w silver. I don't remember the exact price now but it was so close I couldn't pass it up.
Gaming Headsets... I started with a Razer Kraken and ended up with a Razer Nari. Both held up quite nicely. But after one of my ear cups cooling pads broke I decided to go with a pair of studio headphones. The Beyerdynamic 770DT Pro 80 Ohm. While the sound has noticeable less amount of bass everything itself is just CLEAR. And 2 huge plus points are the lower price than most gaming branded headsets and the light weight. I can wear it a whole day and don't feel any pain on my head or ears.
Cant really even compare "headsets" with actual headphones designed for audio quality. Headsets are just functional and that's it. It has a mic. Maybe wireless. Spending too much on it is a waste. A decent brand one will last well enough. For people who need that fast audio latency in gaming, it is a must. Personally, i use a studio monitor headset and a standalone microphone since i dont do frantic-paced competitive games. Then again, its not as if the hifi audio community is not without its overpriced gear.
The biggest problem with any headsets are wired ones my last pair of gaming headphones got a broken wire so I ended up going for a wireless head set which was worth it.
True. Headsets are where the having word "gaming" is just a massive red flag. For bluetooth devices, it can be okay because being branded as gaming usually means that it has low latency, which is necessary for playing most games. But if it's wired there's literally nothing different about a "gaming" one and a regular one except their price and rgb, and the "gaming" headsets tend to consistently sound worse than the studio/audio editing stuff at similar price point
I've got 16GB of 2133Mhz DDR4 RAM and I've noticed in the past 6-12 months that any time I open 5 to 10 tabs in ANY browser - even Firefox now - my RAM usage goes through the roof and becomes a major bottleneck. 32GB seems like a better amount just to give you more headroom for browser tabs that open 4-5 processes for EVERY SINGLE tab now. It's so dumb that internet browsing now uses more RAM than even a top AAA title game uses!
Just for Info : These 4-5 processes are most of the time (especially Firefox is "guilty" of this) security measures. In Firefox's case its called "Project Fission" and its intended to spread out the "Site Isolation" to many different smaller processes in order to make attacks less volatile and successful. Firefox has an entire "Why & Examples" explanation on their website to anyone that actually wants to inform themselves a bit on the matter.
Here's some info that's may be of interest. I have 64gb ram. A moment ago, I had Firefox open with 323 tabs, and Opera open with 134 tabs (across eight "workspaces"). A moment ago, 23.28gb of the total system ram was in use. After closing Firefox, total used dropped to 19.57gb - so, freed up 3.71gb. I then closed Opera, and it dropped to 13.02gb used - 6.55gb freed up. So, Firefox - anecdotally obviously - is way, way more efficient with ram. Your mileage may vary, obviously. The one nice thing though is being able to just not have to worry all that much about ram when you have an abundance. If I'm about to fire up a game, I'll usually just close Opera, and that's it. If anyone has any silly comments chiding me for having enormous numbers of tabs open across two browsers, well, feel free to keep them to yourself! :)
Are you opening UA-cam on those tabs? UA-cam is now fighting back against ad-blockers so aggressively now, that it's rating up CPU usage and possibly RAM usage also
Here is a hot take, I don't care about the aesthetics of the PC tower. IE; any RGB, glass panels, logos for products even cable management. As long as it doesn't effect performance I could not care less. I'm gaming, watching UA-cam, Hulu, whatever, not staring at my tower.
I have a full tower I've upgraded the inners many times. I bought the beige monster back in 1999 and still works great as the home for all the past upgrades.
I think Cases are a big part of money sinks that can suck. So many people only want the RGB fans and white case aesthetic but then they don’t see that they are choking their components because airflow is minimal at best.
This video needs more views. I just think once people have sunk the money into their machines, they don't like hearing that they wasted their money. Most PC builds are just for bragging rights to strangers on the internet. It's like when I was in a Honda bike dealership once and I asked about the difference beteween a CBR 750 and CBR 1000. The dealer told me it was really just for bragging rights. Sure, the 1000 is faster on paper, but unless you are on the track, there are zero situations where that extra power is going to do anything for you. Nobody needs to go from 0 to 60 in 2.6 seconds. 3.6 seconds is still ridiculously fast. In the end it is just bragging rights to tell people you have a 1000 instead of a 750. So maybe nobody needs 64 GB of RAM, but to the uninitiated it makes it sound like the computer is twice as good as one with 32 GB of RAM. Same with graphics cards and all that fun stuff. If you don't need a 4090, then there is no point in having one other than bragging rights. Same thing with a Threadripper. Do you really need a 64 core 128 thread CPU to play games? Hardly. But people like to overbuild their computers just like they enjoy overbuilding their cars. It's all for bragging rights, so I guess that is what it buys you. All that being said, I have 64 GB of RAM in my machine with a 3070 and Ryzen 9 7900x and I don't do anything that needs any of that power, so I'm just as guilty of overbuilding as everyone else. ;) Great video, by the way. I really enjoy your stuff and have learned a lot from you!
I only have 8GB of RAM, which does everything I need. I built my PC over 12 years ago. I went into a parts store, got a shopping cart, and asked for an employee to help me find what I needed. I got the biggest case with an adequate power supply, a motherboard that fit, the best CPU available at the time, a small hard drive (for OS and programs only), a good graphics card, and a Blu-ray writer for backups and playing movies. I paid a little over $2,000 and got a $4,000 computer when I finished assembly. It might have been overkill for that time, but I've been running the same computer 24/7 for over 12 years, replacing only the hard drive after about 9 years with an SSD. So I'm way ahead on the money.
You’re right. Although for me overbuilding wasn’t really about bragging because I don’t really know anyone who knows or cares about computer specs and apart from YT I don’t have social media. Like your car example. There’s a certain satisfaction to building something that has the best parts you can find/afford and knowing it has immense power potential. I agree for most people who don’t use them for work it’s probably about all that ego stroking and “PC Master Race” baloney lol. For the outlier enthusiasts it’s more about pushing limits because it’s fun, with a solid side of future proofing.
I agree but if the money is not tight, then not having to upgrade your computer for 4-5 years counts for somehting. Some people don’t want to be bothered for a few years after putting the PC together
Umm, well... Nvidia reap profits mostly from enterprise stuff like supercomputers, servers, data centers, etc That's why they care to AI tech much more than they care to gamer desires
@@crisnmaryfam7344 "It's all in servers guys nivida gpu aren't doing good I swear believe us" Meanwhile rtx cards chilling near 90% usage on steam hardware survey lol. Yeah rtx cards are pricey but so are all other components if you want a good gaming pc. And you are not getting a good gaming or daily use pc with anything outside of the flagship amd card and even then you have to deal with the grand canyon gap of feature set which anyone spending 1k+ on a gpu and going amd needs to be put in a mental asylum for being so delusional.
@@donkeymoo1581 76%-77% but still, it’s more than 3/4 total. Though one thing to keep in mind is that it is not relative to the amount of any graphics card but instead amount of accounts that use a device that has a certain graphics card.
I actually have open back headphones for airflow and to hear the door and such while gaming. So I still hear my fans and other environment noises. I also stream and make videos, and while I have a noise reduction app, while I’m talking, a bit of noise leaks into the audio track
As a heavy user of 3D modeling and rendering software, I always end up requiring a lot of RAM both in terms of capacity as well as speed and high end GPU. So, most of my costs for building a PC always goes into those two components along with a decent CPU
Outside of RGB and what you mentioned, I'd say AIO. Unless it's really about making the most silent setup, the air cooling is just enough. Already overly sized air cooler is like 66% of the price of cheap AIO, and the cheap AIO probably won't be so silent (and actually performant), at least after some of the coolant evaporates, so... just buy the PA 120 or similar and you are good. And then we have case fans. You don't need to fill up all the slots. Just have 2 in and 1 out.
with this, when i build a pc, i like a strong cpu, mid to high gpu. in my mind, aio are worth it because it removes the heat from the cpu mixing withg the heat from the gpu, meaning i dont need some special cooled gpu. if it were cheaper to water cool my gpu and just as easy. id do that instead.
If you know that something solves your issue then of course - go for it. But most of the time AIO is not needed. So if one seeks to save some bucks, a regular cooler is perfectly fine.
@@mars_12345 im going to be building a 14900k rig soon. im pretty sure, the heat from that thing would saturate my rig and not help the gpu thats also in there. in my head, pushing any and all that cpu heat way out the way is far better. not to solve a problem, but to improve multiple points of the build. that and i dont think the top tier air cooler is going to be far from the cost of a low or mid tier aio
Cases! I have a fractal pop case that I love for the fact there is no hideous branding all over it, plus it has room for ocptical drives. Yeah I'm an old boomer and I still use one. It's plain, and simple. It's like the trend of the fish tank cases, and built in LCD screens. They look great, but in the end your not gonna be staring at your case all day long or looking at the LCD screen built into the case. I'ts like AIO's with a screen built into them. A waste of money. I use air cooling too, cheaper more reliable and really don't fail.
*Lian Li 011 Dynamic XL* ___ Still the *KING* _____ _IMHO_ . *Luxuriously SPACIOUS* .. Sure there's cheaper, but getting a massive enormous case I know for a fact firsthand is truly an investment that needs to be experienced to be appreciated. Video editing oriented, in my niche _I'm not a gamer_ and so don't need, have, or use RGB lighting, not a part of that scene/community . To me, that's just glitzy frills, and personally looks like tacky overkill. But that's just my own tastes, to each their own. But having a huge case like the Lian Li 011 Dynamic XL has functionality and practicality. Opening up that case feels sorta like unlatching a retractable entrance door to a warehouse bay that contains a motherboard and components attached inside it to a back wall. The "first impression" view is just flat out unignorable. Immediately noticeable PLENTY of roomy SPACE to see inspect and access things in a way that smaller cases simply don't allow due to size differential. _Everything is so much easier to DO, period._ I agree that there's some things to be cautious about needlessly overspending on, mentioned in this video, like RAM, etc, but everything in a PC build has a starting point, and that starting point is the case itself, the very housing enclosure & structure & framework enabling anything & everything to be attached & installed *into,* and so I _REFUSE_ to skimp on that one. It is the most overlooked aspect I hear all the time in discussions about builds. Mostly it's about MOBO's, CPU's, Graphics Cards, etc. And then I hear the complaints about having to fiddle around reorganizing and struggling to fit this in and cable management etc etc... Why on earth anyone would plan and make a build with high-end $$$ CPU's Graphics MOBO's etc then pinch pennies and skimp on their CASE is a mystery to me.... Stupid is what stupid does...I suppose. Go Figure.... Note :: there's some other great large cases besides Lian Li 011 Dynamic XL, it's up to anyone's own personal taste. I used that one as an explicit brand-recognizable specific example of just what large-sized scale I'm referring to rather than speaking in vague generalities... *-best.* 😎😎😎😎
I'm in a gamer's group on facebook and I was telling a guy who was new to PC world to stay the heck away from anything that has the word "Gaming" in it from big box stores. It was like I was speaking Greek. I was saying that they add the word "Gaming" so they can raise the price on you. Stunned silence.
I just had a similar conversation with a random guy in best buy. I was getting some replacement ram for my failed ddr5 way to fast ram that croaked. Got it on sale. He was upgrading a ddr4 based system and was going to buy the more expensive faster mhz gamers ram vs the 200 mhz slower ram that had way better timings and size without the fluff rgb crap.
@@shawnmcandrew6923 There comes a point where you can't get some people to see clearly because they have their emotions involved versus their logic. So nothing but the exact candy they want will satisfy them. I'll admit that my rig has so much light that it's blinding and that includes the PSU, GPU, accessories and the monitor. But it's not because I ever paid the high retail "Gaming" prices for any of it.. I'm a 2nd-hand and after market enthusiast. That was all I'm saying
question about power supplies . I see you mentioning to fit it to the system , but anything electrical you max out will create more heat and degrade faster and or fail sooner in general . is this not the case with computer power supplies ? I always felt it would be best to have at least 200 watts more then your system would use to extend life and reduce heat .
I'd add CPU cooler is one as well. A cheap AIO costs like double a quality Air cooled and unless you're at the top of line processor or overclocking it is purely for looks.
overpriced rgb corsair aios that have ok preformace Yeah or Arctic liquid freezer 3 420mm rad (non rgb) which just released and like the previous as of rn it's the best aio on the market and less than 100 usd and that's the largest rad. 240-360mm is 75-90 usd
@thermalright ftw best perf/$. Arctic is also great. some of the aios are obscenely stupid. $200 even up to $300. And they'll barely beat a $35 thermalright air cooler. The air cooler will also outlive it. So, what are you even buying ? Do you just hope they support future sockets. I know noctua will, but do the others.
It all depends on what coolers you get. I just got a 120mm corsair AIO at Best Buy yesterday for 90 bucks. But I just ordered the DeepCool Assassin 4 Premium for 100 bucks.
With all the new builders thinking about new systems. Maybe a good (I hate to put it this way) Idiots guide to pitfalls to spec'n out a system and building new systems in todays environment with all the necessary nuances that come along with it start to finish. I think this would be a good series of videos that experienced builders can send out to people looking to get into this amazing hobby. Expert advice that is easy to follow and absorb would be very helpful to everyone. With things like windows 11 gaming software setups to matching components ( i've had 2 people reach out about putting amd cpu's in intel sockets.) Hope you see this and think about it. Also I hope you are doing good and loving the shared content of the team. A++
I am one of said builders and I would significantly apricate it. I built my first back in 2010 then pretty much fell out of the loop on everything. other than a major upgrade in 2017 I felt way out of my depth on, I haven't done anything to my PC because of pricing. If prices are coming back down, then maybe Black Friday this year I'll take the leap, but again, I'm 14 years behind current so anything on "Bang for the buck" would help a ton.
He definitely has a lot of what you're looking for. I think one of the videos is titled something like "what not to do when buying parts" and another "what not to do when building pc".
I've got a "gaming" mechanical keyboard that will often double type a letter on a single press, but also sometimes doesn't even register certain letters being pressed (but also sometimes double presses them if i push too hard). It was a gift, so i can't be too upset, but I have basically almost completely switched to using an old wireless keyboard for the meantime while i decide on upgrading or not
What I learnt after building my pc years ago: 1. Always go for a bigger modular PSU 800 watts up - You might what to upgrade your GPU or CPU in the long run and need an additional 500 watts. 2. 32GBs of Ram is the safe spot, don't get me wrong I am using 16GB but when I hope off gaming to edit videos and do multitasking I can feel my baby going under pressure. 3. Buy a big PC case, you really don't realize how bad it is until you start adding more things to the already small mid range box. Invest in a nice PC case. 4. More storage I have roughly 1 TB and 120gb for my operating system. Sadly 1 TB has already maxed out. 5. If you are going to game on your PC, ensure you have some mechanical black switches using on your keyboard.
I bought a corsair 275 r mid tower ages ago now I wish I bought a bigger case my tiny 1070 strix hardly fits lol plus the back has no room for cables I have to jam it all in the case to get the back on
The primary advantage of SSDs over HDDs isn't really the transfer rates because of how rarely those matter, but the IOPs - how quickly different files / data blocks can be accessed. Because of this even SATA SSDs still work fine for most applications, so if you get yourself a 1500MB/s+ NVMe you'd need direct comparison to even notice.
@@nimblegoat Re- and encoding usually doesn't reach a SATA SSDs limits due to the strain of encoding and resulting low data rates, but you are right regarding video editing or moving large files. But for this to matter you'd have to do so regularly, and probably need a strong expensive graphics card to help with the encoding, which is when adding a few bucks for a fast SSD won't matter anymore.
@@l3lue7hunder12 that's true - My encoding program , demuxes the video first , of audio streams etc , Others do that during the encoding so not noticeable. So good to have at least 2 M2 drives , as apparently not meant to trash SSD drives , Have an old PC I boot up once and awhile to rip a CD - It has an old Samsung pro 840?? 256Gb - hammered that thing . Tools are meant to work
I can easily tell the difference between a SATA SSD and an NVME drive. Comparing the two is like comparing a SATA HDD to a SATA SSD. It's a night and day difference.
Always enjoy your content. Back in the day I played wow on a laptop with all low settings and stuttering. Then I got my first desktop with a dedicated graphics card. Did you know the hearthstone animation has little leaves? Now that was a upgrade.
Exactly, and with GPUs becoming more and more power hungry I don't think it's bad ever to go for the absolute best you can afford just to give yourself some room
@@barbatocedric4246 I mean... lots of people from what I see try to aim for something at least a 70 or higher from Nvidia. That's pretty considerable. Again, it doesn't hurt and your PSU can be used for multiple generations unlike some other components
That makes no sense... LEDs on memory are a smart and easy solution to add light to your system since you already need to install the memory. The light is there without needing to add any extra part or cable. Like LEDs of GPU, fans, etc... it parts that needs to be installed anyways... So WHY not add some LEDs to illuminate your case? Especially since the cost difference is negligible at best... It usually costs just 5 or 10 dollars more. It RARELY double the cost of non LEDs variant 🤦♂️.
@@NoReply28 maybe it's more like putting a playing card on your bike to hit the spokes to make a vroom vroom noise. it's infantile and makes your computer look like las vegas
Small note: pcpartpicker will only give you a total wattage, not a recommendation. You would still need to do math to make sure you get one that has that 20-50% overhead power.
most of the time your actual system wattage isn't even close to the total possible wattage your components can pull when 100% loaded. in the overwhelming majority of the time, it's _either_ your gpu or your cpu that's loaded near-100% (but rarely actually reaching that amount), and the other component is chugging along at like half power at most. unless you're running a 30-series gpu with the crazy transients of that generation, there's no need to have that much psu headroom on top of nominal tdp numbers. i ran a 4090 on a 650W psu for like nine months and even when i got crashes that felt like ocp, they turned out to just be case heatsoak. most psus are the most efficient if you use them at half of their rated wattage, but if you're speccing them just above the combined theoretical maximum your components can pull, what you'll get in practice will be very close to that half power. my pc with the 4090 and a 7800x3d pulls like 450W from the wall when running a game but that includes 3x 27" 1440p monitors that are also on the same meter. the pc itself is likely closer to 350-400, which is _exactly_ where you want to be with a 750W psu. if you were to overspec to a 1000W or above, like you're recommending here, it would not only be a massive waste of money, it would also knock the system completely outside the efficient range of the psu, unless it's running a full synthetic load
i ran 5600g + 5600xt on a 450W PSU. calculated supply was 310W on pcpartpicker. but that doesnt calculate the case fans and the usb peripherals. blew up a couple of capacitors and fried the back of the pcb ( of PSU ). to sum it up don't try to push it to the limit for a prolonged time. 100W headroom is more than enough.
I came here to learn what to look for when buying a new laptop. I've watched several of you videos and it's obvious your channel is more for people who already know a lot about this stuff already. It felt like I was a new 1st year uni student walking into a PhD course lecture. I know you are incredibly knowledgeable and help a lot of people, but unfortunately it's not for ignorant users like myself.
What great, and incredibly helpful content for newbies or those of us that are re-discovering our passion for PC building (I have forgotten more acronyms than you can imagine, being a certified OG). But to your question on my opinion of wasted money in a build. I would nominate Monitors. for years now, I have used as big and capable of a TV as I could afford and have saved major $ doing so. I am currently rocking 55" LG tv and it is amazing. Granted, I don't play games at 150+ FPS, but hey, what I do play I really enjoy. Driving games are fantastic with such a huge field of view. Anyway, I'm sure that I'll get roasted by everyone that spent major cash on their (small) curved monitors, but for better or for worse that is my opinion.
I’ve gamed on console my whole life and still do but have the itch to build a pc and join the top g’s. I e been doing my research before I build one. Thanks to your videos I feel confident! Thank you for that and keep the videos coming! Great content
@@MrAnimescrazy don’t really have one. I have a good idea of what I’d like and know how overkill it is. I want the ryzen x3d and a 4090. Fast ddr5 liquid cooled. The phanteks nv5 case. Everything in my shopping cart comes to around 7500
@Killstreak4052 I would say to buy the build that you have in your cart. Can you list all of your parts? I have my first all white high end build with the gigabyte aero oc 4090/ 7800x3d/ 64 gigs of ddr5 in the white phanteks nv7 I built last year. I only use the pc for gaming and the pc is a beast. I clean the pc once a month and I use my 65 inch 4k LG c1 oled tv so I am limited to 120 fps but I can get a lot more especially if I use dlss3 but I dont use any upscalers because I dont need to. I play at native 2k or native 4k with or without ray tracing depending on the game.
I get that rgb is a "waste" of money but i like the aesthetic. Im building an all white build with rgb parts but from what ive seem the rgb parts were only costing me lik 10 or 20 bucks more and paying for white has been exactly the same as the black besides my case. Imo i dont think its a waste if you are willing to fork out extra for the aesthetic and are aware foregoing rgb will save you money. Its more about personal choice and taste. Kinda like racing stripes on a car.
I bought a Corsair AX1200i about 15 years ago, and I'm still using it in PCs as I build new ones. Expensive, but paid for itself in what new units would have cost in every subsequent build.
Great vid, this is exactly what ive been trying to tell my friends who were building their pcs, a lot of people still overspec their mobo and cooler and crazy case and cheap out on the GPU.
Sorry but it's not always true. At some point I changed mine case for more expensive one. And from cleaning it 5 times a year from dust. I just clean filters once or twice a year. I was so amazed that in can be so clean for so long without cleaning.
All really good tips. Don't forget that you can upgrade items later on, the main thing is to just get a good motherboard out of the gate that will allow you to upgrade later on. Don't overspend on GPUs and CPUs... Those can get upgraded later (AMD has been good in recent history about keeping the same socket for a decent amount of time).
Isnt that the problem then? "Upgrade later". When is later, and when is the upgrade? Am I overspending now, or am I "upgrading"? When will it ever end, how do you conclude you are overspending or "futureproofing"? The one tip is not to get the latest CPU or GPU unless it has features that the current generation doesnt have. And thats up to debate even.
Even motherboards that are 500-600 bucks are a waste of money for most people especially when processors come out every year and they change sockets every 2-3 years. The only thing I saw I with an expensive mb is ability to have higher speed ram and a little more i/o. As well as 2 8 pin cpu connectors instead if an 8 pin and a 4 pin. The high speed ram 8000 for example is probably not going to be achieved even with the 14900k and you wont notice it in games.
There is a 4th Major category with RAM to consider besides capacity, speed, and timings and that is VOLTAGE. If you buy the wrong voltage RAM and set it to the rated speeds it can cause you to BSOD or Crash randomly.
Regarding RAM: A lot of new, popular games (such as Warzone) show noticeable benefits with 32GB. And for transfer speeds, you want 6000mhz if you're on Ryzen. Not more, not less. This is where it syncs with the infinity fabric, it's as good as it gets without going really deep into overclocking the fabric.
I spend more than 1000$ on custom watercooling stuff, and i can state, that it was a waste of money. No performance gain, good air-cooled systems are more simple to use. The only i get is aesthetic and assembling fun.
@@LeoInterVirAIOs aren't nearly as aesthetically and DIY pleasing as built from scratch water cooling. Also, those are less serviceable. Of course, they are a lot more cash-intensive. So I went with an AIO, but that was me
@@deher9110no performance gain for their use case obviously. There are lazy people like me who got an AIO expecting miracles, and I was disappointed enough to just swap back to a Noctua tower cooler when I got a new CPU. We don't all want to tinker.
@JayzTwoCents Can you make an updated video covering Content Creator and VIdeo Editing systems? My current system is about 8 years old, and is about at its limit with current software and such. It often freezes when video editing and sometimes even crashes/restarts. Also when I'm recording the audio blips/stumbles, which I don't know about until I'm editing the video. So I've got to build a new system, but on the best budget I can v/s beneficial specs. Thanks
Biggest waste of money is people not building for their use case. Cool if you have the money, but it just irks me when I help build systems with really high spec intels, Ryzen 9s or the new XDs, insane amount of ram, and 4090s only to run Minecraft, Fortnite, Lethal, etc. everything set to max and they’re using less than a fraction of what their specs have to offer, and fact of the matter is they never even get close. That and building a monster machine for 4k, then forgetting to have room in budget to upgrade from 1080p monitor. whoops
I am your worst enemy, I'm currently saving up this year to be able to buy an rtx 5090 system with a 4k240hz oled/woled/qdoled... monitor. so that I can play overwatch 2. I already have a gaming laptop that gets 165fps on high settings.
This 💯. I shed a single tear when someone gets an enthusiast grade GPU and their main game is something that can run on a toaster. I myself though can't imagine spending $1000+ on a GPU and I play stuff that is far more demanding.
@@mysticking16 I’m with you there. I only bumped up when I got super serious into flight sims and vr stuff. Like said, if ya got the money well cool but still pains the soul a little 😂
@@theslayermate3466 I feel like people don't want to do their homework and will just spend the most money possible on whatever their buying. I hate to judge but I have a friend that has a Ryzen 9 and a 3090ti and his main game is overwatch 2. He does play at 4k though but is barely using half of the total vram. He does also have cities skylines 2 though.
I use my computer for audio production and gaming. Hardware requirements for both of these can overlap quite a bit. Some thoughts: I would get the highest wattage PSU at the best price-per-watt value. I'll explain why. For reference, I have an AMD Ryzen 9 3950x, 128 gb Corsair DDR4 RAM, 8 gb Sapphire Radeon HD 5700XT Nitro+ on an ASUS Crosshair VIII Hero motherboard. It is powered by a Seasonic Prime 1300 watt power supply. All of this is in a Fractal EATX compatible desktop tower case. It has 4 5.25" bays and 8 3.5"/2.5" bays. I built the system about five years ago and it is still going strong. So I am something of a power user. My systems cost several thousand dollars new, but I also expect them to last 10+ years across two or even three OS generations on the same hardware. IMO, you can never go too far over in wattage as far as a power supply, especially when many Seasonic PSUs are warrantied for 12 years. You could easily run two systems into obsolescence using the same PSU. These PSUs are expensive up front at $300+ but over the long term they are a very good value. Additionally, for audio production, one often needs multiple HDDs/SSDs running simultaneously: one drive for OS/DAW/plugins, one for sampled instruments, and a third drive to record to. Add on game drives and general storage drives, as well as alternative OS boot drives (I have Windows 10 on 2.5" SSD and Windows 11 on NVME), and suddenly the number of drives for the PSU to power increases quickly. I currently have 8 drives and 1 optical drive running on my system with room for up to 20 drives if I use an ASUS NVME PCI-e card, 5.25" to 3.5"/2.5" bay adapters, and a SATA controller expansion card. It is much easier to use all of this internally than to fuss with external enclosures that require external power and often run more slowly than internal drives. Most importantly, adding more power also stabilizes your system from unexpected freezes/crashes when demand for resources spikes. This demand usually happens when web browsing. I have often had hundreds of browser tabs open with the intention of going back to read their pages but I never do. It is easy to fall into bad habits and leave those tabs open rather than bookmark them or consult history. An annoying problem is Google Chrome becoming ever less efficient and using 100+ mb of RAM or more just to display a static webpage. This is nonsense. So you need more memory in there if you do a lot of web browsing and want to leave everything open instead of revisiting bookmarks and history. What needs to change is graphics cards being so power hungry. New top of the line cards use as much wattage as an entire basic 300 watt power supply from 10-15 years ago. Where does the need for more power end and more efficiency with less heat begin? Where will power supply wattage ratings be in 10-20 years? When browsing a single webpage alone uses 100s of mbs of memory and when a PC uses more power than many heavy duty home appliances, it's time to start rethinking efficiency in software optimization and system components.
@@Elrog3 You read: ""I have often had hundreds of browser tabs open with the intention of going back to read their pages." To justify it so it doesn't seem strange: So many browser tabs open is common. It's why browser windows can be named now and have themes. It's also why newer browser versions can open where they left off. We've come a long way since having only browser windows and no tabs in the 90s and early 00s. It's that many people aren't going to have the fastest CPU in the newest socket mobo with the best chipset with the most memory because of how much it costs, so they don't leave so many browser tabs open when they only have 16 gb of memory. Meanwhile, I skimp on the graphics card because I don't care about frame rates above 60 fps as long as it's in 4k because I play mostly strategy games. It's all personal preference.
@@AAAA-lt9hq Even if it was absolutely free to do it, I don't see how you take it that far. Its more work to sort through 100 windows or tabs than to just research the thing you wanted to find.
@@Elrog3 Because it's less trouble to sort through tabs than to bookmark something and create an extensively long bookmark list that requires nested menus to contain everything. Also, I tab sites I intend to read once and disregard. I only bookmark sites I visit regularly. Where tabs do get to be an issue is when one window has so many tabs they are too long for the window border and/or the boundaries between tabs disappear. That is when you open another window to contain more tabs. Browser extensions like Session Buddy make this much easier because they save copies of your previous sessions. I can see what I browsed years ago. SB also refreshes the page on a timer if needed. Newer versions of Chrome open your session where you left off, but Session Buddy did it first. And Chrome cleans out your history after a three months or so. In short, I don't read a single page at a time and close it. I read portions of several pages at various points throughout the day. This is the same way people used to read magazines. If I need information from the tabs later, I keep them open and they come back whenever the browser session is restarted. Otherwise they are closed. If I need them much later, Session Buddy keeps track of them.
For me (and I didn't always think like this.. I too fell into the design desire trap) is the use of an AIO when an air cooler is perfectly okay. The longevity seems to be better, and they're cheaper to fix if anything (the fan) breaks. AIO's are beautiful, cool looking and the thought of cooling your PC with liquid is "so cyberpunk", yet often it's unnecessary. Case in point - for seven years I've been running my CPU (Ryzen 1600) on the stock air cooler.. I got a bit giddy so I decided to have an upgrade to a Cooler Master 212 RGB Black Edition to beautify things up a bit but it's still an air cooler.. very reliable and happy. Six months prior to writing this I swapped my CPU from the 1600 to a latter end of the AM4 platform 5700X CPU. The same cooler is still doing the same thing and it's happy.. very happy. Granted it you have an OTT CPU, overclocked to buggery then yep, an AIO may serve its purpose well, but I would be willing to guess that there are quite a few people out there running AIO's for no good reason.
Please do a video on timings! Definitely a confusing area for me.
No.
It all depends upon the RAM, but for the most part - don't touch them. If you do, don't do too much.
If amd the bio settings need attention or end up low default timings. Watch videos on setting up bios for amd ram or Intel ect.
I just check what's been autodetectdd by BIOS and if it's different from the label on the RAM I set it manually to match.
poeple need to stop wathcing those kind of youtuber what the hell he dont know anyting about memory at all
Doing a RAM explanation/buying guide would be SUPER helpful
Thank you for everything you guys do!
yeah bc it's super hard to buy 3600mhz ddr4 and 7000mhz ddr5 lmao get a grip
@@Finduh Yeah but there are things to consider like ddr4 cl 16 4000 mhz is better than ddr5 7000 mhz with cl 40 and most ddr5 are cl30+, its not clear to everyone.
@@-T--T- that guy prob thinks RGB lighting improves performance too
@@-T--T-Not to mention some "older" CPUs dont even officially support stuff past "3200" or if really old, 2666, so getting 3600 ddr4 would be either waste of money or cause unstable weird stuff. But it could also work. But why gamble like that? Are you gonna gain 20 fps with that "400" extra (genuine question cos idk with ddr4)
I entirely agree ! As super simple as one would think that RAM is, it's quite the opposite. And I've been there a lot, with troubleshooting RAM, in over 15 years as an IT technician. A video covering the basics but also a more in depth dive would be very useful. Not only for a novice but also for a tech savvy guy. Because hardware always evolves and changes occur.
0:58 - Power Supplies
3:19 - RAM
6:28 - "Gaming" PC's
9:20 - Custom "High End" GPU's
13:07 - Storage
Appreciate it
The third time stamp is arguably the MOST IMPORTANT. Its tiring watching people get scammed out of their money...
Thanks saved me 20 min of my life
Jayz discusses five things that are a waste of money when building or upgrading a PC. The first point is about oversized power supplies, advising against buying a power supply that is too large for your needs, as it can be costly and unnecessary. The second point is about overspending on RAM, highlighting that while RAM capacity, speed, and timings can impact performance, many users can get by with 16GB of DDR4 running at 3,800 MHz for gaming. Jayz cautions against getting caught up in the latest RAM technologies and spending more than necessary. The third point is about the fallacy of "gaming edition" products, emphasizing that any PC can be a gaming PC if it can run games, and that the term "gaming" is often used in marketing to attract buyers. Jayz also talks about high-end, custom PCB graphics cards, highlighting that while these cards may offer marginal improvements over standard models, the price difference is often not justified. Lastly, Jayz discusses storage, specifically NVMe drives, pointing out that while PCIe Gen 5 offers significant performance gains, most users will not notice the difference in everyday use, making it a potential area to save money.
Real MVP
I built my first pc to be a full RGB build and i got so sick of rgb that the only LEDs in my new build are a screen on the aio pump and the debug lights on the motherboard.
Same here. I've used the same plain black ATX case I've had for probably the last 15 years. I'm about to upgrade again with the same one.
@@relic1882I had to buy a new case with my current build because all the panels fell off my old nice case ☹️
Yes, we would appreciate a video showing the impact of timings on games!!❤
4 (four) Million SUBSCRIBER Milestone ACHIEVED @JayzTwoCents || Don't always agree with everything Jay, but, the great thing is your one of the only Tech UA-camrs willing to also listen and improve as our bellowed tech hopefully continues to fruitfully evolve... Either way your soothing voice always gives me a very nice tech buzz.
Thankyou and try to continue finding that fine line between enthusiast and the every mans tech expert. Congratulations Mate luv from Australia!
|| WE DO TECH STUFF HERE ||
"No one should limit us in the realm of possibilities.
We can all play a part in innovation pressing forward."
|| the TECHNESS CORNER ||
Yeah but adding 1-2 Games that we _know_ scale with memory timings.
e.g. ArmA3 or Squad. (even though they might be impossible to benchmark, as they are ~100 Player MP games)
Reason is, so we know when we get diminishing returns in good scaling games. ;)
@@mrmr-vr7vh or eft which really demands fast cpu (esp. ipc performance) and fast ram (not timings)
Maybe a collab with Buildzoid from AHOC?
He can't even get his 7200mhz ram stable in his tests. Referring to 3-4 video's back. Losing 25% performance, stating it's "no difference to upgrade speeds",
"Gaming" Chairs, they certainly look nice but there are so many better chairs out there that are better for your back.
This is true, I have a Herman miller chair but Jesus Christ they’re way more expensive. Thankfully I have a family member who works for an office furnishing company
I got a leap v2 refurbished. You never know it was used before. Everything looks brand new. Wonderful chair as well. I wasted money on my first pc chair lasted a 7 month was horrible to sit at. This one will last for me till I'm old.
just have cheap comfy office chair. or just cheap comfy normal chair.
While this is true in a lot of cases, especially with cheaper gaming chairs. I actually prefer my Secret Lab chair over my Herman Miller.
A-Freaking-Men, Wish I gave up on that crap years-decade ago
Pretty happy with my Steelcase now, wish I had the moneys for a Herman Miller, but..
I agree plz do a timing video with Ram. Would love to understand more!
Yeah, I still don't understand the difference between speed and timings, or at what point one becomes more important than the other.
@@cchhiipp no worries, Jay doesn´t either...
simple, choose lower timings over speed
if you wanna learn about ram buildzoid is the place to go.
Yes 💯
The biggest waste of money is rushing to buy a pc component without checking for the cheapest site to buy it from.
The cheapest site usually being used on eBay, I usually start there for the higher price parts like CPU/GPU. Sometimes you can find really good deals on parts that weren't even used much at all some creator just needed them for testing or it was an open box deal.
How do you tell whether the CPU or GPU is not bad? I am interested in 4090 GPU and 9950x CPU but afraid to get a defective used item@@6slade
i personnally focus on reliability rather than price. cheaper on aliexpress? nah, ill stick to newegg or amazon
i agree i spent 250$ extra on a 450$ pc just because i was rushing.
@@6slade Ebay is my go to place before I consider other places
We have 2 sides of wasting money. One is buying overly expensive stuff, the other is buying overly cheap stuff.
please hit like on this video💀💀
I'm trying to buy the cheap stuff now since I spent too much on expensive stuff.
"Buy cheap, buy twice."
@@rossbittner6831fr man
Three sides… third: buying over-specced components we don’t need (YET) and that we can probably NEVER fully utilize (like i.e.the PCIe5.0 storage) into our mostly un-BALANCED custom PC builds for us enthusiasts 🤣🤣🤣
YES Jay, I've been debating upgrading my RAM. That detailed video on timing and Mega-transfers would help greatly.
Yeah I think this would be extremely helpful for myself as well because I'm actually looking to upgrade my RAM because 16gigs just isn't enough. Seems a lot of games I play have a bit of a memory leak and even just an hour on them and they crash. I'm also a disgusting human being leaving 6-7 tabs open on my browser while playing. My RAM just constantly sitting at 80-90% usage it seems.
@@popmagic9006This is absolutely true now. 16 gigs isn't enough for gaming.
It's mostly to do with two things. First is that Gaming industry culture rn is to release games in half baked forms with a lot of bugs. There are always memory leaks in games especially in ones with AI heavy opponents or open world components.
2nd is that Chrome is the most commonly used web browser and it's a resource hog as everybody knows. That thing occupies ram usage like it's nobody else's business. If you have a dual monitor setup(quite common nowadays) and want to listen to music, you will have a few tabs open.
Also, i'm not to sure about it but i believe windows also reserves upto 4gb for itself as it is.
@@popmagic9006
6-7 tabs are nothing.
It shouldnt matter in ram usage that much. The browser itself would take the most memory from you not its tabs. The tabs are optimized not take ram or use minimal amount when not used.
I would like a comparison of high MHz high timings vs low MHz low timings comparison vs middle of the road
@thenortonanti
Ddr4 3200 cl18 has the same letancy as ddr5 6400 cl 36 in theory. The only advantage here for ddr5 is 2x bandwidth. It is actually more than 2x but let keep it simple
I turned my old HTPC PLEX Server into a “Gaming PC” by adding a used from eBay 3080ti Founders Edition (for $585) to the Intel 11900K already in there. It’s black, no lights, no frills, looks like an AVR Receiver… and kicks butt on any game I throw at it. Great video Jay.
Used 3080ti's here in the UK are still going for the equivalent of 600 usd.
hell of a deal on the 3080 ti holy shit
What case did you use? I've used the Silverstone Milo and Grandia series for a few HTPCs.
Wow someone referring to a 11gen as old. ... launched q1 21. Is that considered old?
even if it's "yours" gen 11 i9 isn't old.
I work in a PC repair shop and I can't tell you how many people try and build super high end systems and end up bringing them to me to do correctly. It wasn't a trend until UA-camrs started getting free parts from vendors and pushing excessive computers. It's a trend that needs to stop, it's driving inflation on parts, causing waste and extra cost for people over their heads and making consoles look more appealing. No one needs a threadripper and 4090 for Fortnite. No one needs those in any gaming computer. Threadripper is like home server grade CPU and a 4090 is a Titan replacement for workstations doing things like game development.
Pffff, can’t just upgrade a few things in an HP or Dell. They can’t just have a boring black box. They absolutely _NEED_ RGB unicorn vomit, every part color matched, and A E S T H E T I C S of a really cool looking system to do web surfing.
@@Mister_Phafanapolis the more RGB the faster the tabs load in Chrome.
I agree man.
those "dream build $20k" or a "$50k over the top dream build" but they literally just spent mostly on things they won't use after few months.
I'm just jealous that they can spend on expensive things that easily but I think people NEED to be more reasonable and practical for their builds.
what about a 4080 s for Autocad, photoshop and AAA gaiming?
@@taylorhickman84 that will be fine, but you will lose accuracy in AutoCAD on vertexes.
Great vid Jay. It would be awesome to see a deep dive into ram timings.
Raw power is more important.
Not so much back in the day but, today's world......... it is.
lol
The biggest red flag that the PC is overpriced is if it has a little apple logo on it.
Tbf, I'm a die hard PC gamer but for laptops, the M series macbooks are undefeated when it comes to efficiency/screen on time. Gotta give credit where its due.
I agree with you on iPhones! Even the new ones are shit! I just got a new one and it fucking sucks so badly! Apple has fallen into that group of companies that just use their brand as an excuse to charge more for shit products,
I will say, however, their laptops are the only thing that’s remotely half decent and reliable,
But I’m a hardcore PC traditionalist!
are u stuck in 2015 mate?
@@oooooooorion That saying doesn't really hit that hard if less than a decade has passed.
Tbh the new M series seems great!
The informative “talking head” segments (without any favoritism), are sorely few and far between. Thanks Jay, I personally appreciate your down to earth way of simplifying topics for everyone, new, and the seasoned individuals out there.
I feel like Jay would have trouble sleeping if he didn’t try to inform his audience of worthless things. I believe that is what keeps him down to earth and why I personally enjoy his content. Love these vids!
I love your videos because you speak very clearly and directly and therefore I ask you if you recommend buying Windows 11 and Office? It is a very real doubt
I hope your answer is the same as mine and that is yes and you always get it from pages that have the licenses to sell them like BNH Software for greater peace of mind.
Apart from that, you get rid of the headache of searching for each program separately.
And do you think it's worth it? I'm going to look on that page to compare prices.
totally and you will have all its functions enabled
buying Windows is legally required if you want to use Windows - GNU/Linux exists if you don't *need* Windows. Buying MS Office (legally required to use MS Office) on the other hand is a different proposition since there are alternatives out there that'll work for most use-cases just as fine as MS Office, like LibreOffice
5:35 Would really like to see more about RAM and timings please! As always, great video. Thanks Jay and team!
Yes, I'm not so sure the 16GB max is quite as good as he was suggesting. With the costs as they are right now I would just go with 32GB as a starting point and only go lower if I know it's not going to be needed, or really trying to cut the cost.
Currently sitting here with a Win10 machine with three screens just streaming a few windows and browsing, and my 32GB system is using 14GB right now. Personally, I would rather drop the RAM speed a bit but increase the total.
@@gordon861 I think it's more of, 16GB is going to be sufficient for *most* people for gaming, for the vast majority of games. There are definitely a number of games that could utilize more, and if you play those games, then going up to 32GB is fine - but even those games will tend to only use a bit over that 16GB, and nowhere near the full 32GB. If you never play those games - or don't play them on high enough settings to require more than 16GB - then spending the extra money on the extra RAM can be a waste.
Also, with the way Windows utilizes RAM and pagefile/virtual memory, even if your computer is reporting that it is "using" 14GB of RAM... it's probably actually not keeping all of that in the physical RAM itself. A significant portion of that is probably only in virtual memory. Even when you plenty of physical RAM to use, Windows doesn't generally keep every bit of allocated memory in the RAM itself. You can somewhat force it to do so by only allocating a tiny amount of virtual memory, but that can cause its own issues.
While I agree 32gb might be excessive still, 16gb is started to become minimum specs for many games coming out recently. I would suggest more than 16 but unless you had the budget and wanted to waste money I wouldn't suggest 32gb unless you got them on sale or something.
With this include how older timing with the smaller ram compares with the higher timing of new stuff. My build from 15 yrs ago had 4GB at 7-7-7-7 but my new 32GB is at 36-36-36-96. With the timings higher is there a difference or does the throughput make up for that?
One thing I know about DDR5, it's hard to get high speeds with 4 sticks unless you have a high end overclocking motherboard and binned high end CPU. And for gaming it's not that worth it.
I think it is also quite easy to overspend on a case. If you are on a budget or care more about function vs form, lean towards a basic case with decent airflow.
I agree. The case is a major factor when building your PC and overspending is very easy 'because it looks nicer'.
Not really. Case choice is much more about actual quality, both from a build quality perspective, but especially performance. A lot of the cheaper cases just plain suck when it comes to thermal performance.
agree, the sweetwpot is between 100-125€, anything more is mostly waste of money unless you *really* know what you need
@@AB-80X It depends what you are going for. I have seen plenty of PC's have no case and/custom case that didn't even start as a PC case. Even a cheap case that is not sealed off (decent airflow) will work just fine. A case is not necessary to have a working PC. It is just there for protection and looks.
Bring back the $30 "Beige Box" mini tower!
gotcha: *add more RGB for more performance (since we all know light = POWER)
Lightspeed 😅
It definatly adds points for System Coolness
For more power remember to use only red color on all RBG tho! :D
@@Perrcell if you go white it uses all the colour power "by our powers combined"
RGB adds 100 Horse power... I thought everyone knew.....
This was a very helpful video. I have not built a PC in over 20 years, and only just started going down the rabbit hole, looking at parts picker to build a mid range machine. I really like your presentation style, easy for the layperson, and straight to the point.
The powersupply was a major oversight on my part, I was a first time builder...I didn't have people helping me buy parts. The thing is though, the 1000w psu had the same price with the 850w psu required for my rig. I still love it though. I can overclock the crap out of my components without worrying if my psu can supply it.
Having too much power is also a good thing because it will have lower load, meaning less temperature and bigger lifespan. If you need 800, going 1000 is not a bad idea, especially for 0 to 20$ more (assuming same efficiency)
A big thank you for continuing to look out for the budget conscious builder after all these years. You're a real one 🙌
If something is branded as "gaming" these days, just know that you can find the non-gaming version of it for around 50-70% cheaper with a little bit of effort and searching.
It's sort of like buying a car. Just because it has stripes on it's paintjob doesn't mean it's better. It might be 1% faster because it has stripes, but it most certainly doesn't mean better.
You're talking about the "sport" version of a car. Yeah, that's a pretty good analogy.
@@govapesthe difference is though that the sport trim of a car can actually have more power, better suspension, tighter steering, and a better exhaust
Motherboards are my favorite part to waste my money on. Do i need a 450 doller x670e Taichi motherboard? No the 120 doller model would perform just as good. But the taichi has 24 power phases. A 7800x3d does NOT need that much power, lol. But it looks nice, even though it's tucked away inside a desk out of sight... lol😂
But the stripes on the car make the car go vroom vroom faster... lol
Not that good of an analogy
What you pointed out about "gaming" and specially monitors is very true. I had two gaming monitors in the past that while having good refresh rates, I never managed to like the colors enough, always felt like everything was washed out, at some point I got a similarly priced TV that has game mode (144Hz and low latency) and it ended up delivering a way better experience, even though it has zero RGB, no curved display, etc.
Chairs are other thing, too. I never owned one of those very high end gaming chairs to tell, but the one I had was really badly built compared to a similarly priced office chair, not to mention ergonomics.
Great vid Jay. All super important info. It's also easy to overspend on a motherboard. Getting features you will never use especially if you don't plan on overclocking. Which also means air cooling is just fine, so there is money to be saved there as well
Yeah I can agree, especially with people sometimes really focusing on certain features that basically have zero actual use. I specifically have in mind those motherboard armors that basically covers the entire back of the board, they do nothing.
Another small one is additional nvme heatsinks, for the most part you likely wont need them for day to day use (idk about pcie gen 5), you are not going to be hitting them at their hardest at all. I do appreciate putting one on the main drive directly connected to the cpu but the addition of one for the other slots connected to the chipset is something that just unnecessarily drives up the cost.
Some air coolers are actually within a few C* and when you look at the pricing and performance of thermalright you would be silly to waste so much on water.
@@EricLab97 Yeah I totally agree. Although in one of my rigs I have a team group 2 TB nvme that gets super hot so it definitely doesn't hurt
@@samuelvanlane For sure especially if you aren't trying to push it to its limits. In my kids computer he has my old 10900k, although hot, AIO is not needed for normal use. However overclocking that thing it gets extremely warm and having a 360mm EK AIO definitely helps keep it under tjmax
Isn't it massively hypocritical from this channel? here is my 3 tip :1 buy sweet spot mid range, 2 no overclocking, 3 no window case. Don't thank me your PC just got 3 to 5 times cheaper with no visible real life difference in usage.
almost ten years ago, i decided to build my own pc for the first time, and your videos helped me out so much. now it's time for a new system, and i'm just happy you are still at it, even more so debunking the industry bs that has become rampant in the industry in the last few years. thanks a lot jay
I'm in the same boat, PC almost ten years old now and at the end of the line for upgrades (still has DDR3 and the socket is a 2011 that got discontinued relatively quickly).
Still have the assembly knowhow but trying to get a handle on what the good middleground is in terms of performance and value with the new gen hardware.
This is me as well. Lga 1151 mobo and rx470 gpu.
Its like i got stuck in a time warp with how much things have evolved over the last 8+ years.
Still dont know if Im going intel or Amd cpu.
Definitely would love to see coverage of the frequency up versus timings down question.
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@Sonicstillpoint83
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- A RAM-based 'Hat Trick' would have been the ultimate video...
'Amount' vs 'Speed' vs 'Timings'
As an added bonus...
'Out of the Box' vs 'Tweaked'
Now that would be considered a 'Wet Dream'-scenario if you ask me.
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When you benchmark different speeds and timings, the difference is mostly negligible in terms of percentage. Memory is rarely a bottleneck because it's so fast, but the prices vary a lot.
This knowledge adds very little except artificial benchmark figures.
Good point! There are so many ways to save money on a PC build. Skipping on the customizable RGB fanciness, on the 'gaming' branded stuff, excessive memory or watts or clocks or RPMs that you don't really need for what you actually use your PC for, etc. can save a lot of money. The only colored lights in my case are on my fans and they are just blue. They can't be controlled by software or anything expensive like that. They just light up blue, spin fast and don't make much noise. That's all I need from them.
I've also saved a lot of money by re-using parts from previous builds. My monitors have displayed the graphics from three computers at this point. I game at 1080p and have no interest in resolutions above that, so I don't bother buying anything that is capable of working with resolutions above 1080p. I have seen many monitor and GPU combos that are running at higher resolution and I honestly can't tell that they look any better than the same content playing at 1080p. Some say that higher resolutions look 'sharper'. I can make my monitors and TV look 'sharper' by adjusting the sharpness setting without getting a 'high resolution' gadget. I'm also using the same 650 watt PSU that I had in my previous build. My keyboard and trackball mouse are from a previous build too. They were good quality peripherals so I didn't wear them out before. Spending just a little bit more to get good quality for parts that take a lot of abuse like keyboards and mice is worth it as they last longer. Meanwhile, I save money by skimping on things that are mostly decorative like cases. I get cases with plexiglass windows rather than tempered glass, for example. Makes for a cheaper case that is also lighter to carry and still does the job of holding all the parts together.
I also don't bother with buying more storage than I need. My NVME SSD is 500 GB for my C: drive. It's plenty. I never have enough games and other software on it to move the bar graph above 60% full. I am still using the non solid state hard drive from three computers ago for storing my pictures, documents etc. It's a 1 terabyte size one and I can't fill it up even by putting every file I currently own on it. Speaking of memory, I do have 32 GB of RAM, but it is DDR4 and it's Corsair's basic RAM without any fancy lights on it. I re-used 16 GB of it from a previous build and then got another 16 on a sale that matched the old ram in specs.
I save money by getting used or 'refurbished' parts. Like my current graphics card. It's an EVGA 1660 Super. That is far from the latest and greatest graphics card, I know, but it exceeds the recommended system requirements of the games and software that I run, so it's all I need. I got it on Ebay from a seller who accepts free returns for two months no questions asked. That's a pretty good warranty for a used GPU. I got it last November and it's been running just great every day since then. I'm not surprised though since EVGA was one of the best GPU makers ever. It's like my grandpa used to say about buying used cars: better to get a good quality car used than a cheaply made car new.
Finally, I watch for big sales. All of the new parts that I used to build my current PC were from Black Friday sales last November. I didn't pay full price for any of it. I spent something like $750 on my current PC by doing all of this. Left a lot of money in the ol budget for getting some new games.
Would definitely love to see an in-depth video on RAM. I always found that more confusing than comparing other components.
Particularly with amd. Despite all the calculators and stuff, I actually gave up on it rather than waste time finessing the settings :)
Yes, would love a super detailed technical video on RAM, especially highlighting example scenarios on why high cost maximum performance RAM might matter
Balancing budget on RAM performance depends on what you'll use is the most difficult part of building a PC.
There's too much variable to consider like DDR versions, capacity, frequency, latency, rank, buffer, channel, and much more
The only thing to note from me is: brand doesn't matter. Just get the perfect combination of variables i listed above and get that combination as cheap as possible no mater the brand.
Any RAM dead very rarely even most manufacturers dares to provide a lifetime warranty
@@BoraHorzaGobuchul For most applications, the standard ram timings at the speed that your ram is listed for should work.... no need to finagle settings because you are just wasting time there unless you are benchmarking, then it gets expensive really quickly.... in other words, the stock RAM settings work for most applications.
@@jonasmartinez1739 I know they do. But it would've been nice to have it work out of the box or with little effort :)
RGB has been talked about constantly, but one of the things I don't see talked about enough is white parts, I have several friends that have opted for all white builds. it makes sense since the standard is usually black so they're charging you essentially for the white paint or plastic, but like it starts to add up
every time i buy white electronics they end up failing, it's made me racist
No clue which parts your friends are buying or where they are buying them from, but I went with an all white PC and paid the same price for the parts as it's black counterparts. For example the Lian Li Unifans I am running are the same price in white or black.
And it costs exactly the same to make them white as it does to make them black.
Tried to find a new 1080p gaming monitor for a new all-white build for my oldest son but gave up and bought a black one due to very limited options and higher prices in white bezels. I'm just not willing to pay a huge colorway premium. We can always add white vinyl adhesive to the front to make a two-tone look for $10-$15 if we want to later on.
My cpu cooler was actually 30% cheaper in white...all black with white cooler lmao
I'm an ITX builder, keep my rig inside of a filing cabinet. 16GB DDR4(IDR the timing), 5700X, 7800XT, a 2TB PCIE4 M.2 and housed in a SUGO 14. It's 100% air-cooled, neatly cabled, utterly silent and runs my games on high-1440 - It does what I want and will continue to do so for the next 2-3yrs, at which point I'll upgrade the 7800XT, might have to upgrade the RAM for the new Civ game and keep it for another 2-3yrs.
I'm a huge believer in KISS - No LEDs, no need for custom cards unless that's all the market has. I'm not looking to break 500FPS so I stick with relatively budget kits. I'll spend $40 on 2-3 case fans and then more on a low-profile, silent cooler.
You have a great machine =)
For those who don't know:
"K.I.S.S." = "keep it simple, silly" (or "stupid" if you're feeling edgier)
Classy builds are the best. There's one thing I do in my builds. I install a short 20-30 cm single LED strip somewhere where I can't see it. In my Hyte Y70 it's up behind the fans. Why? If something is off, I have an inspection light in a black on black machine in a dimly lit office. Have done this for years. A bit gimmicky, but beats a flash light.
I have the same, a 7800xt GPU, but I'm running the 5900x cpu with 32gb 3600mhz ram. Air cooled. My GPU and PSU rarely hit the high 60s and I only have 6 fans, 3 in and 3 out. Also minimal RGB because the same fans were on sale that had it and so did my GPU.
Thank you for this content. I have been in IT for 30+ years, but most of that time was dealing with mid-range computers like the AS/400. I didn't need the knowledge about the internals until about 2006 when I started repairing desktops and laptops. About 8 years ago I transitioned to the administrative side and stopped working on computers. I recently started thinking about building a "gaming" rig and discovered just how out of the loop I had become. Your content has helped clear up a lot of things for me. (Although, still overwhelmed.)
As far as power supplies, when I started, they were as little as 135 watts, and now they go to 1200 watts. Yet, over the years, if you bought a higher wattage power supply, it often had to be replaced when you upgraded anyway because the connectors had changed. The new modular power supplies may help with that somewhat, but even then, my son had to upgrade his modular power supply when he went to a 14900k because he needed an extra 6 or 8 pin connector, if I recall. However, when it comes to power supplies, quality does matter. You don't want power fluctuations, nor do you want your computer to crash with a slight flicker in the incoming line voltage. Sadly, price seems to have pushed the high quality power supplies out of the market because no one will pay for them. You used to be able to buy some real tanks of power supplies that had 2-5x as many windings, meaning a lot more impedance and stability. It also meant they weighed far more, perhaps 2x as much, so they were easy to spot. All current power supplies seem to be the light weight variety. [If you want to reduce from 120 volts to 12 volts you can do it with 5 loops of wire around a conductor on one side, and 50 loops on the other side round the same conductor. Or, you could do it with 25 loops on one side, and 250 loops on the other side, which will have far more impedance and stability.]
Since I keep my cpu under the desk, out of view, besides RGB, my biggest waste would be the glass-walled cases, which are more expensive, and often have worse airflow as a bonus.
I've never replaced a power supply since my first PC in 1989. My current one is using the same cables and connectors as that first one in 1989. There are adapters for anything new that I might get, but additional drives are external, so my power supply is not going to have anything at all added to its load.
@@bite-sizedshorts9635 I know that you can get adapters from the old power connectors to the ones for devices that arrived with the move from IDE to SATA, but what about the motherboard and GPU connectors? The old motherboards and GPUs did not have separate power connectors at all, so obviously the power supplies had no connectors for them.
I do like the older, larger power supplies because they had a lot more windings, so they were very stable, but their overall wattage caps were low, usually 250-400 watts. Additionally, you had to be careful about power draw at specific voltages, rather than just being concerned about total draw.
Going overkill on CPU cooling when it isn't needed. Every CPU doesn't need an AIO or a Noctua DH-15. My first build had a Ryzen 7 3700x and i was looking at $100+ coolers to put on it because i just didnt know any better, thankfully did enough research to just settle for the cooler that came with it. 3 years with the stock prism cooler, no problems. I've upgraded PCs since but I easily could have added $100-$150 to a build when I didnt need to.
This is definitely it. I had the Ryzen stock cooler, and I upgraded to a Noctua NH-U12S. Not liquid, no dual towers, heck not even dual fans on it. And the result? My overclocked Ryzen 5 1500X (I know lol) NEVER EXCEEDED 65C and 900 rpm on the fan. I literally could not get it to go higher than that, even running everything at 100%. The cooler wasn't even running at full speed (1500rpm)! And this cooler is like 2 tiers below the NH-D15. And it still has room for a second fan, it even comes with the mounting hardware for it! And guess what was the BIGGEST gain? Sound. The noise reduction gained by going from a 2000 rpm 92mm fan to a 1500rpm (max) 120mm fan was very noticeable, even with my Define R5 case.
because water cooler enthusiasts are like vegans and try their hardest to get everyone else to water cool xd
I hate when seeing people using an AIO on a 6 core CPU. That thing can run on a stock cooler just a bit louder. Using an AIO will net almost 0% performance boost, just that it's be quieter. Get a good air cooler for that.
Ryzen stock coolers are definitely one of the best. If only Intel could've done what AMD did. I always always have to change out my Intel Stock cooler after a few years because the feet locks just breaks because the plastic is either brittle or it bends itself somehow
Still have my nh-d14, cost me £55/60 back in 2012/2013 best investment into cpu cooling, has limited my case options which I want smaller than over a decade ago😅 it is time for some new fans though.
Water cooling. Never used it, or needed it. Been building PC's since 1990. Gaming hardcore before that on consoles and still fly Microsoft Flight Sim2020, and play games. Thanks Jayz.
How's your average room temp though?
Watercooling has always been unnecessary...It's something that you do for fun or to just make you system look nice...I always watercool my PCs because I like the way it looks and I enjoy building it, but it is definitely not necessary...
@@brucepreston3927you couldn’t be more wrong saying it’s never needed.
I’ve been building PC’s for 25+ Years and yes for the average gamer they don’t need it.
That being said, ANYONE running a 13700K/14700K or 13900K/14900K should absolutely be water cooling. ESPECIALLY IF THEY ARE DOINY ANY KIND OF OVERCLOCKING.
If you have a Case like the O11 Dynamic EVO with the entire Case Full of Fans in the proper Configuration (3 Fans at the Top, Bottom, Side, and 1 Fan at Rear) along with your house staying quite cool you could probably use a Air Cooler (A Decent to Best Quality) and run a 13700K/14700K
@@h.m.chuang0224 What's that got to do with water cooling? Water or air you're still moving the same amount of heat from the PC to the air around it.
@@h.m.chuang0224The same either way, the heat is not deleted its transferred to a radiator.
Thank you for the video, great advice. My PC build is approaching 8 years old. When I built it, I had in mind that I wanted to make it last at least 8 years with the better components. Now, I am looking to make a new build in order to run Windows 11. So this means I will need an almost new build with the exception of case, PS, cooler and hopefully I won't have to replace my 1TB SSD card with all my system needs on it. Does anyone see a reason to replace the SSD if I am upgrading MB and CPU?
God I love Jay and the channel. Everything you ever needed to know about PCs explained in a no nonsense easy to understand format. Because of Jay, I now build top of the line systems when I didn’t even know how to install a GPU a few years ago. Prebuilt computers were all I knew. Thank you Jay and the gang!
Yeah this dude is straight up. I love his content!
I bought my 3080 the year they came out! GPU's were wicked scarce! Buying a founders card for me wasn't an option. I have a 3080 ASUS TUF OC and it plays all of my games at high fps on my 1440p monitor. Very happy it's still all I need.
I got super lucky with Best Buy and was able to get an FE. I still have that lil guy on my backup PC.
I feel this. I have no issues with my strix 3080 oc running 1440p max settings....yet every video i see shows how its being outdone by new 4070s etc. and i keep thinking i need to upgrade to something like a 7900xtx or a 4080 for absolutely zero reason if i don't go to 4K along with it.
Me too, I jumped the gun two days after launch on the very same ASUS RTX 3080 OC, and running 1440 it is plenty enough. I had to wait 5 months for it to arrive, but didn't have to pay anything until I got it and at launch price. I have added 32 more Gb of RAM since then and uses this in MSFS which can act up and double load files. Better to have too much RAM than not being able to get two more of the same sticks when you need it. I have switched from a 3700X to the 5800X3D and are good for several years now. I still use the then overkill 2013 build 850watt PSU. My oldest setup 3700K and 16Gb RAM is still singing in my daughters build. But I think she will skip ahead in the next and go AM5.
Same. I just need to upgrade my cpu to a 12 or 13th gen.
Until recently I was using a pair for Sapphire R9 390s. Still able to play all my games in three-screen eyefinity (5760x1080) with no issues
The only small quibble I have with Jay's list here is the amount of RAM. Not because of gaming, but web browsing and general OS use. Just booting Windows these days with a very basic setup, Steam, Discord, and a chrome/edge/firefox open with 6-12 tabs, you can EASILY eat 10 GB of RAM, and it only goes up from there. The difference in price between 16 (2x8) and 32 (2x16) is so small, just spend the extra $20-30. Speed is important, to a point, after that "sweet spot" is reached, the only need for a sped bump is for OC'ing, but amount of RAM, ... 32GB. I say this as someone who has been running 16 GB for 10+ years, and on my next system I'm bumping to 32 GB.
This. He said 32GB is all you should ever never and I about choked on my drink. 64GB should be the standard for most gamers. 32 is the minimum. Watch your RAM usage just during normal usage and you'll see it easily fills up quickly just with web browsing and light gaming. Heavy hitting games like Star Citizen will soak up 50-60GB of RAM if you have it available
I only have 8GB and have no problem with multiple programs running and dozens of browser windows open when I'm working on genealogy. I can have audio streaming, software recording the audio, word processing software open for work, browser windows open for research, and downloading files from Usenet, all at the same time. I don't know how more RAM would help me, except put off rebooting for a month or two more. I try to have the computer doing something 24/7 and keep it on for weeks or even months before Windows leaves enough crap stuck in the memory to gag the computer.
@@bite-sizedshorts9635You're probably drive caching I'd bet. It's seamless, and you generally don't notice it with multiple low/medium memory usage apps anymore with NVME speeds, but if you have any apps or games that use big chunks of RAM all at once, 8 GB will not be enough. Given the cost, why would anyone only want 8 GB (2x4) of RAM? 16 GB (2x8) is the same price, and probably less these days, and depending on the day, 32 GB (2x16) might be the same price as 16 GB.
@@Djrendezvous99Star Citizen's trash.
@@Djrendezvous99 using an alpha tested only game which isnt even optimized properly is a bad example for gaming 32gb is fine and you can get away with 16gb easily but if you are building a new PC I would recommend 32gb ram 64 is overkill but if you have the budget then go for it
This was the best video I have seen you do. I sincerely appreciate you calling out the marketing hype designed to confuse buyers and upsell. Not many youtubers do this. Thank you!
My obsession with cable management, I even cable manage the cables behind the mobo tray with zip-ties, black electrical tape and clear nail polish to keep said tape from curling up.
But this is "free", you probably like doing it and love the end result.
That sounds beautiful.
So when you remove the tape the cables are all sticky?
@@karlhendrikse Yes but since I use painter's tape it wipes off with alcohol
Why not velcro ties? Easier to undo when making changes to hardware and no adhesive residues to deal with.
YES PLEASE on the DDR5 RAM timings and how they matter - Your good at explaining these things to the lay tool such as myself! Thanks btw!
There is no market for "gaming" overclocked DDR5 modules yes. Those which decent are overpriced.
DDR5 just as good or less than DDR4 😂😂
One of the biggest wastes of money is buying like $500 motherboard for a CPU that would work literally EXACLTY the same on a $100 board. So ultimately, the BIGGEST offender is that people are aiming for looks instead of performance. (And I'm guilty of this myself)
The biggest offenders are the manufacturers misinforming the public to make them believe their budget offerings are sh*t - and actually actively making them that. They're forcing the market into the high-margin top tier.
I was buying motherboard right now. And for me the most important was connectivity. And you can't buy cheap mobo with like 4 slots for M2 Gen 4. I already have 2 drives on it. And still I can put more if I go out of storage. Will be cheaper to add one then buy bigger new and replace . Especially that in time price will drop. Before I had quite expensive mobo asus formula v with i7 3770k and it's still working. And I use 7 ports of sata on it wich with cheap mother board won't be possible. So you can't go too cheap if you want something for years
@@evan-du3vkAbsolutely; the CPU isn't the only thing that goes on a motherboard. I really wish I could get just one extra SATA port on my current MB.
$500 mobo is ridiculous but $100 for a new mobo msrp isn't going to be very good. It's more than just the cpu/ram.
CPU's and RAM have only gotten cheaper, adjusted for inflation and performance, but sure, of course they play a role. @@corybjarnason218
All solid advice. I've built two towers and have gone through multiple workstations, but it's been a while since I had to spec out a new build. I am confident that I picked the right parts for my build this time around.
Very well explained. I wish there were more videos out there to explain this sort of stuff to IT newbies, or people just trying to figure out how to build their first PC. Now I work in the IT industry, and have recently gone through my five-year-cycle of building a new system from the ground up, and the amount of money I - could - have wasted was staggering. So you're probably saving a lot of people a lot of money, if they see this before buying. I like it.
Jay makes the best content out there. Always enjoy his level headed videos like this, its refreshing.
Jay... the biggest reason for the price difference in those NVME M.2's (P3, P3 Plus and the T700) is the that the P3 variants are DRAM Cacheless drives and the T700 has a DRAM Cache....I agree with you though, for most users doing normal daily computing stuff... the P3 would be fine but if you need sustained high write speeds... you are going to need a DRAM Cache!
Get nvme with cache in older pcie versions, it's the best bet.
how is dram cache going to make my games load faster?
it isn't? oh.
well surely 12000MB/sec reading is better than some 3000mb/sec reading, on games right? better than 500mb/sec reading, right? games comes up instantly on 12000? no? its the same speed? oh.
maybe you should explain who uses dram and for what, when you talk of dram. is it just for processing videos, which i will be making 24/7 at work if i am video processor server at work? and once a year at home? okay.
@@Redmanticore
I am a 1B/min beer processor, where is your god now?
@@Redmanticore They didn't say anything about making games load faster, not sure why you immediately went there. They said "if you need sustained high write speeds." Those people can identify themselves, and they probably know what they need it for. Not to mention, they said "sustained high _write"_ and all you're talking about is read speeds. Not sure why you're acting like they're supposed to give a lecture on everything about DRAM cache just because they mentioned it.
But yes, a faster drive absolutely does make a difference _in some games._ Recently I had the Dead Space Remake installed on a slower drive at first, and there was a ridiculous amount of stuttering. Basically unplayable. Moved the install to a much faster nvme drive and suddenly it was fine. Star Citizen also benefits from a really fast drive, and is basically unplayable on slower ones. Ever since consoles finally started using SSD's, faster drives are becoming more of a requirement for some games.
@@neofromthewarnerbrothersic145 You are assuming it can "read" and then if it can "read" that is understands the words used.
Can you do this same video for creators? My main programs are photoshop, premiere, after effects, blender and Capture one
I mean RGB in general is a big one too. A lot of the minor products can be considerably cheaper if you look for the versions without RGB. Even if it's only saving a few dollars here and there it adds up. A lot of the time you can find a non-RBG version of the same case, fans, coolers etc for a good % cheaper than the RBG versions. PLUS in a lot of cases it saves you the headache of actually getting all the RBG wired up properly and configured in software.
False. RGB or ARGB have its legitimate use. You can have it on "smart" to indicate the temps rather than looking at a secondary display for system monitoring or overlays to block estate on your main display. It even more useful in an enclosed case with smoked transparent side panel or non-transparent panels; you can troubleshoot from the outside which fans aren't spinning due to tangled cables or fault (especially for SFF).
@@lesliegrace8360how to do this if you don't mind me asking
@@ningensan8198Most RGB software have that feature where you tag specific temps threshold at preferred colours. The usual motherboard RGB software offerings like Asus Aura has that feature as well; even OpenRGB is capable of doing it via Hardware Sync plugin.
I bought a 1000W Corsair supply in 2013. It's still right here, chugging along. I think a *bit* of extra dosh into the quality of something as critical as the PSU can very easily give its ROI
But you could have spent 50-100aud on a basic 500W PSU that still runs most normal midrange builds, over the same time period... Btw what was the return?
I disagree about the "overspend" on PSUs. 500W does not cut it. You can barely run an RX 6700 XT, Ryzen 7 5700X or higher. The thing with modern PCs is you want to minimize upgrades. A 750W PSU is the sweetspot. I have an RX 7800 XT, Ryzen 7 5700X and I use a lot of my USB ports. I wouldn't even recommend a 600W for a modern gaming PC.
EDIT: I also want to mention that the price difference of a 600W PSU and a 750W PSU isn't a big difference. In fact you'll save money when you get a 750+W Gold PSU to use for the entire life of your PC then to buy a 600W, realize it isn't enough when you want to upgrade and then you need to buy another PSU. Think smart. Work hard and smart. Get paid and have a good PC that lasts a long time.@@RexNathanChan
I have a 2600 (65W), RX480 (150W) or Vega56 (210W). Add in LSI HBA cards, HDD, fans, mb/RAM, thats max 300W? So for me, a 350W PSU will be fine, but you can only buy min 450W. I am using a BeQuiet System Power 9 500W PSU.
Most normal people keep their systems the same for 5+ years, so it makes economic sense to buy the minimum you need for your current system. Are you gonna re-use a 10y old PSU when you upgrade in 10yrs or buy a new one? A basic 500W PSU is $60-100AUD, vs $200+ AUD for 750W+ monsters.
Sure, if you have a high TDP CPU (100W?) and high end GPU (3080 needs 350W), then min 500W makes sense, perhaps buying a 600W is ok. also PSU gets less efficient running at low loads, so you will draw more power from the wall in an oversized PSU@@noobbotgaming2173
Using your example: RX6700XT (230W), 5700X (65W), thats total 300W, plus extras, say 350-400W actual draw at max, So a 450-500W PSU will be fine. I think you greatly over-estimate how much power you need, or have not done the calcs. :P RX7800XT TDP is only 263W, add 100W for max CPU, still only draw 400-450W, so 500-550W PSU is fine.
BTW how does USB ports matter? Can you draw rthat much from USB 3.0 or USB-C?
ok, I looked up USB standard on wiki and without PD (power delivery), mac USBC is 15W, so say 6x 7.5W USBA ports plus 2x 15W USBC=75W@@noobbotgaming2173
@@RexNathanChan Every PSU matters. Extra room is always nice to have. I don't understand the bare-minimum-upgrade-later mentality. Like I said with the cheap prices of PSUs you may as well save time and money and buy a higher watt PSU.
My current PC has an RX 7800 XT. When I first had my computer I had a 450W PSU. RX 580 and Ryzen 5 3600. Kept crashing during gaming until I figured out my PSU was too low. So I upgraded to 600W and no more crashes.
And I live in Canada and even with our prices the PSU is not an expensive purchase.
$30+ fans (each) people going around spending $2-500 in fans alone, it's crazy.
If you are not doing anything extreme, then basic fans will do the job. £12 quid for a pack of 4 including hub and rgb controller does just fine.
There are two sides to that coin.
You can spend on "fancy" fans with RGB or LCD. However, you can also spend money on high performance fans. But it depends on what you're doing. Those of us who overclock o make video editing and transcoding faster to save actual time, and who don't want to listen to the fans too much, can benefit from a well designed fan.
I got a 5 pack of Arctic fans for the same price as 1 of those fans. Figured if they didn't work well enough I could just replace them later but I haven't seen a reason to.
Good point. I see a lot of people complaining about the LEDs dying prematurely too. Especially with the Dominator Platinum.
you are right. others arte paying $100+ for a fan.
When I decide to build I take months finding stuff on sale rather than just going out and buying stuff at whatever the current price is. I gotta have it now is the biggest wast of money I know of. Last build I ended up with a super flower 1200w 80 plus platinum leadex se when I was only looking for 750w silver. I don't remember the exact price now but it was so close I couldn't pass it up.
Would love to see the same analysis for production oriented rigs. Like 3d modelling / rendering, photo editing etc
Gaming Headsets...
I started with a Razer Kraken and ended up with a Razer Nari. Both held up quite nicely. But after one of my ear cups cooling pads broke I decided to go with a pair of studio headphones. The Beyerdynamic 770DT Pro 80 Ohm. While the sound has noticeable less amount of bass everything itself is just CLEAR. And 2 huge plus points are the lower price than most gaming branded headsets and the light weight. I can wear it a whole day and don't feel any pain on my head or ears.
I have Razer Blackshark, original version, and I just went online and ordered 3rd party replacements for ear pads.
Cant really even compare "headsets" with actual headphones designed for audio quality.
Headsets are just functional and that's it. It has a mic. Maybe wireless. Spending too much on it is a waste. A decent brand one will last well enough. For people who need that fast audio latency in gaming, it is a must.
Personally, i use a studio monitor headset and a standalone microphone since i dont do frantic-paced competitive games.
Then again, its not as if the hifi audio community is not without its overpriced gear.
The biggest problem with any headsets are wired ones my last pair of gaming headphones got a broken wire so I ended up going for a wireless head set which was worth it.
True. Headsets are where the having word "gaming" is just a massive red flag. For bluetooth devices, it can be okay because being branded as gaming usually means that it has low latency, which is necessary for playing most games. But if it's wired there's literally nothing different about a "gaming" one and a regular one except their price and rgb, and the "gaming" headsets tend to consistently sound worse than the studio/audio editing stuff at similar price point
Sennheiser HD560s FTW.
I've got 16GB of 2133Mhz DDR4 RAM and I've noticed in the past 6-12 months that any time I open 5 to 10 tabs in ANY browser - even Firefox now - my RAM usage goes through the roof and becomes a major bottleneck. 32GB seems like a better amount just to give you more headroom for browser tabs that open 4-5 processes for EVERY SINGLE tab now. It's so dumb that internet browsing now uses more RAM than even a top AAA title game uses!
Just for Info :
These 4-5 processes are most of the time (especially Firefox is "guilty" of this) security measures.
In Firefox's case its called "Project Fission" and its intended to spread out the "Site Isolation" to many different smaller processes in order to make attacks less volatile and successful.
Firefox has an entire "Why & Examples" explanation on their website to anyone that actually wants to inform themselves a bit on the matter.
fish
32Go is a minimum nowadays.
Here's some info that's may be of interest. I have 64gb ram. A moment ago, I had Firefox open with 323 tabs, and Opera open with 134 tabs (across eight "workspaces"). A moment ago, 23.28gb of the total system ram was in use. After closing Firefox, total used dropped to 19.57gb - so, freed up 3.71gb. I then closed Opera, and it dropped to 13.02gb used - 6.55gb freed up. So, Firefox - anecdotally obviously - is way, way more efficient with ram.
Your mileage may vary, obviously. The one nice thing though is being able to just not have to worry all that much about ram when you have an abundance. If I'm about to fire up a game, I'll usually just close Opera, and that's it.
If anyone has any silly comments chiding me for having enormous numbers of tabs open across two browsers, well, feel free to keep them to yourself! :)
Are you opening UA-cam on those tabs? UA-cam is now fighting back against ad-blockers so aggressively now, that it's rating up CPU usage and possibly RAM usage also
Here is a hot take, I don't care about the aesthetics of the PC tower. IE; any RGB, glass panels, logos for products even cable management. As long as it doesn't effect performance I could not care less. I'm gaming, watching UA-cam, Hulu, whatever, not staring at my tower.
I have a full tower I've upgraded the inners many times. I bought the beige monster back in 1999 and still works great as the home for all the past upgrades.
That's not a hot take...
Don't you ever gaze at that nice frame and smack it's back?
@@greywolfe1114 What about front panel connectors like USB 3 (2008)?
Tbf cable management is important outside of looks since it can significantly save you time
LOL, just in middle of your rant on "gaming something" YT decided to show me an ad of gaming chair :D
I think Cases are a big part of money sinks that can suck. So many people only want the RGB fans and white case aesthetic but then they don’t see that they are choking their components because airflow is minimal at best.
This video needs more views. I just think once people have sunk the money into their machines, they don't like hearing that they wasted their money. Most PC builds are just for bragging rights to strangers on the internet. It's like when I was in a Honda bike dealership once and I asked about the difference beteween a CBR 750 and CBR 1000. The dealer told me it was really just for bragging rights. Sure, the 1000 is faster on paper, but unless you are on the track, there are zero situations where that extra power is going to do anything for you. Nobody needs to go from 0 to 60 in 2.6 seconds. 3.6 seconds is still ridiculously fast. In the end it is just bragging rights to tell people you have a 1000 instead of a 750. So maybe nobody needs 64 GB of RAM, but to the uninitiated it makes it sound like the computer is twice as good as one with 32 GB of RAM. Same with graphics cards and all that fun stuff. If you don't need a 4090, then there is no point in having one other than bragging rights. Same thing with a Threadripper. Do you really need a 64 core 128 thread CPU to play games? Hardly. But people like to overbuild their computers just like they enjoy overbuilding their cars. It's all for bragging rights, so I guess that is what it buys you.
All that being said, I have 64 GB of RAM in my machine with a 3070 and Ryzen 9 7900x and I don't do anything that needs any of that power, so I'm just as guilty of overbuilding as everyone else. ;) Great video, by the way. I really enjoy your stuff and have learned a lot from you!
I only have 8GB of RAM, which does everything I need. I built my PC over 12 years ago. I went into a parts store, got a shopping cart, and asked for an employee to help me find what I needed. I got the biggest case with an adequate power supply, a motherboard that fit, the best CPU available at the time, a small hard drive (for OS and programs only), a good graphics card, and a Blu-ray writer for backups and playing movies. I paid a little over $2,000 and got a $4,000 computer when I finished assembly. It might have been overkill for that time, but I've been running the same computer 24/7 for over 12 years, replacing only the hard drive after about 9 years with an SSD. So I'm way ahead on the money.
You’re right. Although for me overbuilding wasn’t really about bragging because I don’t really know anyone who knows or cares about computer specs and apart from YT I don’t have social media.
Like your car example. There’s a certain satisfaction to building something that has the best parts you can find/afford and knowing it has immense power potential. I agree for most people who don’t use them for work it’s probably about all that ego stroking and “PC Master Race” baloney lol.
For the outlier enthusiasts it’s more about pushing limits because it’s fun, with a solid side of future proofing.
Video card should cost around 40-55% of your whole gaming PC budget. That is all you need to know.
I'm so interested in what 12 year build with 8GB of ram could even be potentially viable for today@@bite-sizedshorts9635
I agree but if the money is not tight, then not having to upgrade your computer for 4-5 years counts for somehting. Some people don’t want to be bothered for a few years after putting the PC together
forza motorsport supports direct storage? that's funny because it says that my 970 evo plus is a hdd and the game takes 2 minutes to load
When NVIDIA reported a 79% margin, we knew we were F...
Umm, well... Nvidia reap profits mostly from enterprise stuff like supercomputers, servers, data centers, etc
That's why they care to AI tech much more than they care to gamer desires
@@za_pravdu1943 LOL people like to think their $1000 Gpu is more than a drop in the bucket to Nvidia. Dont burst his bubble!
@@crisnmaryfam7344 "It's all in servers guys nivida gpu aren't doing good I swear believe us" Meanwhile rtx cards chilling near 90% usage on steam hardware survey lol.
Yeah rtx cards are pricey but so are all other components if you want a good gaming pc. And you are not getting a good gaming or daily use pc with anything outside of the flagship amd card and even then you have to deal with the grand canyon gap of feature set which anyone spending 1k+ on a gpu and going amd needs to be put in a mental asylum for being so delusional.
@@donkeymoo1581 76%-77% but still, it’s more than 3/4 total. Though one thing to keep in mind is that it is not relative to the amount of any graphics card but instead amount of accounts that use a device that has a certain graphics card.
@@donkeymoo1581 90% huh?
NVIDIA GeForce RTX 3060
5.55%-1.16%
NVIDIA GeForce GTX 1650
4.20%+0.25%
NVIDIA GeForce RTX 3060 Ti
3.59%-0.34%
NVIDIA GeForce RTX 2060
3.50%-0.48%
NVIDIA GeForce GTX 1060
3.39%-0.21%
NVIDIA GeForce RTX 3070
3.38%-0.48%
NVIDIA GeForce RTX 3060 Laptop GPU
3.35%+0.39%
NVIDIA GeForce RTX 4060 Laptop GPU
2.77%+0.49%
NVIDIA GeForce RTX 3050
2.67%+0.26%
NVIDIA GeForce GTX 1050 Ti
2.40%+0.06%
NVIDIA GeForce RTX 4060
2.33%-0.17%
NVIDIA GeForce GTX 1660 SUPER
2.19%+0.10%
NVIDIA GeForce RTX 4070
2.14%-0.28%
NVIDIA GeForce RTX 3080
2.13%-0.10%
NVIDIA GeForce RTX 4060 Ti
1.99%-0.03%
AMD Radeon Graphics
1.97%+0.06%
Intel Iris Xe Graphics
1.86%+0.01%
NVIDIA GeForce GTX 1660 Ti
1.57%+0.05%
NVIDIA GeForce RTX 3070 Ti
1.47%-0.06%
Intel(R) UHD Graphics
1.41%+0.03%
NVIDIA GeForce RTX 4070 Ti
1.29%+0.12%
if you game with headset all the time, why spend on 6-9 expensive quiet fans? 17:38
Because they are loud asf, Just buy a normal Xbox one After the One x i never felt Better (and at hearing the movimenti of the enemy top(
I actually have open back headphones for airflow and to hear the door and such while gaming. So I still hear my fans and other environment noises. I also stream and make videos, and while I have a noise reduction app, while I’m talking, a bit of noise leaks into the audio track
Thank you for this, I kinda needed that as I'm planning on upgrading my PC!
Good luck! 🙂
As a heavy user of 3D modeling and rendering software, I always end up requiring a lot of RAM both in terms of capacity as well as speed and high end GPU. So, most of my costs for building a PC always goes into those two components along with a decent CPU
Outside of RGB and what you mentioned, I'd say AIO. Unless it's really about making the most silent setup, the air cooling is just enough. Already overly sized air cooler is like 66% of the price of cheap AIO, and the cheap AIO probably won't be so silent (and actually performant), at least after some of the coolant evaporates, so... just buy the PA 120 or similar and you are good.
And then we have case fans. You don't need to fill up all the slots. Just have 2 in and 1 out.
with this, when i build a pc, i like a strong cpu, mid to high gpu. in my mind, aio are worth it because it removes the heat from the cpu mixing withg the heat from the gpu, meaning i dont need some special cooled gpu. if it were cheaper to water cool my gpu and just as easy. id do that instead.
If you know that something solves your issue then of course - go for it. But most of the time AIO is not needed. So if one seeks to save some bucks, a regular cooler is perfectly fine.
@@mars_12345 im going to be building a 14900k rig soon. im pretty sure, the heat from that thing would saturate my rig and not help the gpu thats also in there. in my head, pushing any and all that cpu heat way out the way is far better. not to solve a problem, but to improve multiple points of the build. that and i dont think the top tier air cooler is going to be far from the cost of a low or mid tier aio
Cases! I have a fractal pop case that I love for the fact there is no hideous branding all over it, plus it has room for ocptical drives. Yeah I'm an old boomer and I still use one. It's plain, and simple. It's like the trend of the fish tank cases, and built in LCD screens. They look great, but in the end your not gonna be staring at your case all day long or looking at the LCD screen built into the case. I'ts like AIO's with a screen built into them. A waste of money. I use air cooling too, cheaper more reliable and really don't fail.
These are the ways to cut spending on a build.
How often do y use an optical drive?
@@AB-80X Does it matter? Some of us like to watch DVDs at our desk or backup files to a CD-ROM.
@@md_vandenberg Even if you dont want it, fractal makes decent cheap cases either way. Love my fractal mesh c
*Lian Li 011 Dynamic XL* ___ Still the *KING* _____ _IMHO_ . *Luxuriously SPACIOUS* .. Sure there's cheaper, but getting a massive enormous case I know for a fact firsthand is truly an investment that needs to be experienced to be appreciated. Video editing oriented, in my niche _I'm not a gamer_ and so don't need, have, or use RGB lighting, not a part of that scene/community . To me, that's just glitzy frills, and personally looks like tacky overkill. But that's just my own tastes, to each their own. But having a huge case like the Lian Li 011 Dynamic XL has functionality and practicality. Opening up that case feels sorta like unlatching a retractable entrance door to a warehouse bay that contains a motherboard and components attached inside it to a back wall. The "first impression" view is just flat out unignorable. Immediately noticeable PLENTY of roomy SPACE to see inspect and access things in a way that smaller cases simply don't allow due to size differential. _Everything is so much easier to DO, period._ I agree that there's some things to be cautious about needlessly overspending on, mentioned in this video, like RAM, etc, but everything in a PC build has a starting point, and that starting point is the case itself, the very housing enclosure & structure & framework enabling anything & everything to be attached & installed *into,* and so I _REFUSE_ to skimp on that one. It is the most overlooked aspect I hear all the time in discussions about builds. Mostly it's about MOBO's, CPU's, Graphics Cards, etc. And then I hear the complaints about having to fiddle around reorganizing and struggling to fit this in and cable management etc etc... Why on earth anyone would plan and make a build with high-end $$$ CPU's Graphics MOBO's etc then pinch pennies and skimp on their CASE is a mystery to me.... Stupid is what stupid does...I suppose. Go Figure....
Note :: there's some other great large cases besides Lian Li 011 Dynamic XL, it's up to anyone's own personal taste.
I used that one as an explicit brand-recognizable specific example of just what large-sized scale I'm referring to rather than speaking in vague generalities...
*-best.* 😎😎😎😎
great vid jay...I'm about to build a new dream pc but this definitely has me thinking twice on a few items. love your practical advice!!
Great video and very honest. Would be a huge recommendation for anyone building their first pc for what to put their money into.
Spending 100 dollars on a Windows License 😅
There is an app called Gameflip so much easier and cheaper
$17 for an education or enterprise Windows license from Keysoff!
@@donjulioanejo bro 5$ windows 11 pro key on Gameflip
linux just works!
Spending 5$ on a windows 11 key on gameflip
Dude sounds like me talking to my nephews. They'd buy gaming underwear if they thought it'd help in a round of Halo.
Are you saying you don't have gaming underwear?
Gaming underwear ftw
I'm in a gamer's group on facebook and I was telling a guy who was new to PC world to stay the heck away from anything that has the word "Gaming" in it from big box stores. It was like I was speaking Greek. I was saying that they add the word "Gaming" so they can raise the price on you. Stunned silence.
Stay away from all gaming gpus then
@@goochipoochieI guess you were stunned into silence by the op. 😂
Yeah uh there are exceptions to this when it comes to motherboards and gpus
I just had a similar conversation with a random guy in best buy. I was getting some replacement ram for my failed ddr5 way to fast ram that croaked. Got it on sale. He was upgrading a ddr4 based system and was going to buy the more expensive faster mhz gamers ram vs the 200 mhz slower ram that had way better timings and size without the fluff rgb crap.
@@shawnmcandrew6923 There comes a point where you can't get some people to see clearly because they have their emotions involved versus their logic. So nothing but the exact candy they want will satisfy them. I'll admit that my rig has so much light that it's blinding and that includes the PSU, GPU, accessories and the monitor. But it's not because I ever paid the high retail "Gaming" prices for any of it.. I'm a 2nd-hand and after market enthusiast. That was all I'm saying
question about power supplies . I see you mentioning to fit it to the system , but anything electrical you max out will create more heat and degrade faster and or fail sooner in general . is this not the case with computer power supplies ? I always felt it would be best to have at least 200 watts more then your system would use to extend life and reduce heat .
I'd add CPU cooler is one as well. A cheap AIO costs like double a quality Air cooled and unless you're at the top of line processor or overclocking it is purely for looks.
overpriced rgb corsair aios that have ok preformace Yeah or Arctic liquid freezer 3 420mm rad (non rgb) which just released and like the previous as of rn it's the best aio on the market and less than 100 usd and that's the largest rad. 240-360mm is 75-90 usd
thermalright sells 50€ AIOs nowadays that believe it or not, perform better than some 120+€ pieces of garbage from brands like NZXT or corsair.
@thermalright ftw best perf/$. Arctic is also great.
some of the aios are obscenely stupid. $200 even up to $300. And they'll barely beat a $35 thermalright air cooler. The air cooler will also outlive it. So, what are you even buying ?
Do you just hope they support future sockets. I know noctua will, but do the others.
me who using arctic friezer sport duo on x3d 😉😉😉
It all depends on what coolers you get. I just got a 120mm corsair AIO at Best Buy yesterday for 90 bucks. But I just ordered the DeepCool Assassin 4 Premium for 100 bucks.
With all the new builders thinking about new systems. Maybe a good (I hate to put it this way) Idiots guide to pitfalls to spec'n out a system and building new systems in todays environment with all the necessary nuances that come along with it start to finish. I think this would be a good series of videos that experienced builders can send out to people looking to get into this amazing hobby. Expert advice that is easy to follow and absorb would be very helpful to everyone. With things like windows 11 gaming software setups to matching components ( i've had 2 people reach out about putting amd cpu's in intel sockets.) Hope you see this and think about it. Also I hope you are doing good and loving the shared content of the team. A++
I am one of said builders and I would significantly apricate it. I built my first back in 2010 then pretty much fell out of the loop on everything. other than a major upgrade in 2017 I felt way out of my depth on, I haven't done anything to my PC because of pricing. If prices are coming back down, then maybe Black Friday this year I'll take the leap, but again, I'm 14 years behind current so anything on "Bang for the buck" would help a ton.
He definitely has a lot of what you're looking for. I think one of the videos is titled something like "what not to do when buying parts" and another "what not to do when building pc".
Watch two of your videos, subscribed. Practical and useful information, thank you for your time and efforts.
I've got a "gaming" mechanical keyboard that will often double type a letter on a single press, but also sometimes doesn't even register certain letters being pressed (but also sometimes double presses them if i push too hard). It was a gift, so i can't be too upset, but I have basically almost completely switched to using an old wireless keyboard for the meantime while i decide on upgrading or not
Many thanks for this great eye opener, advice well given and taken.
Best wishes for a Great Weekend
What I learnt after building my pc years ago:
1. Always go for a bigger modular PSU 800 watts up - You might what to upgrade your GPU or CPU in the long run and need an additional 500 watts.
2. 32GBs of Ram is the safe spot, don't get me wrong I am using 16GB but when I hope off gaming to edit videos and do multitasking I can feel my baby going under pressure.
3. Buy a big PC case, you really don't realize how bad it is until you start adding more things to the already small mid range box. Invest in a nice PC case.
4. More storage I have roughly 1 TB and 120gb for my operating system. Sadly 1 TB has already maxed out.
5. If you are going to game on your PC, ensure you have some mechanical black switches using on your keyboard.
I bought a corsair 275 r mid tower ages ago now I wish I bought a bigger case my tiny 1070 strix hardly fits lol plus the back has no room for cables I have to jam it all in the case to get the back on
i agree with the case part, I bought the corsair 4000d and then upgraded to a 4090, it barely fits. So from now on its big cases only
the hell are you talking about with the keyboard, everyone knows you need to use cherry blues for that real gamer experience
@@derhesligebonsaibaum Black switches all day. It's not what everyone knows, its what's proven.
@@beasttitan8747Where do you find black switches these days?
The primary advantage of SSDs over HDDs isn't really the transfer rates because of how rarely those matter, but the IOPs - how quickly different files / data blocks can be accessed. Because of this even SATA SSDs still work fine for most applications, so if you get yourself a 1500MB/s+ NVMe you'd need direct comparison to even notice.
Video work which many amatuer enthusiasts do - it saves a lot of time to move , analyse apply filters , re-encode etc . Given a file can be 50Gb or so
@@nimblegoat Re- and encoding usually doesn't reach a SATA SSDs limits due to the strain of encoding and resulting low data rates, but you are right regarding video editing or moving large files. But for this to matter you'd have to do so regularly, and probably need a strong expensive graphics card to help with the encoding, which is when adding a few bucks for a fast SSD won't matter anymore.
I moved to SSD primarily for the sound. Or lack of. But I guess they might've gotten quiter.
@@l3lue7hunder12 that's true - My encoding program , demuxes the video first , of audio streams etc , Others do that during the encoding so not noticeable. So good to have at least 2 M2 drives , as apparently not meant to trash SSD drives , Have an old PC I boot up once and awhile to rip a CD - It has an old Samsung pro 840?? 256Gb - hammered that thing . Tools are meant to work
I can easily tell the difference between a SATA SSD and an NVME drive. Comparing the two is like comparing a SATA HDD to a SATA SSD. It's a night and day difference.
Always enjoy your content. Back in the day I played wow on a laptop with all low settings and stuttering. Then I got my first desktop with a dedicated graphics card. Did you know the hearthstone animation has little leaves? Now that was a upgrade.
PSU is the only pc part i always overkill. saves me having to upgrade in the future!
Exactly, and with GPUs becoming more and more power hungry I don't think it's bad ever to go for the absolute best you can afford just to give yourself some room
@@phil_matic Only the "hightest" end GPU draw more power (4090-7900XTX) . . . not the "entry" and "mid" tiers gen on gen !
@@barbatocedric4246 I mean... lots of people from what I see try to aim for something at least a 70 or higher from Nvidia. That's pretty considerable. Again, it doesn't hurt and your PSU can be used for multiple generations unlike some other components
I just upgraded to am5 and ddr5…. Had to upgrade psu so we’re chilling on 1000W now. Not having that happen again lol
@@phil_maticIt's fair to over spec, but honestly unless you're running a xx90 card, you're probably fine with 850w max PSU.
wow LEDs on memory. that''s like putting a jacuzzi in an outhouse
That makes no sense... LEDs on memory are a smart and easy solution to add light to your system since you already need to install the memory. The light is there without needing to add any extra part or cable. Like LEDs of GPU, fans, etc... it parts that needs to be installed anyways... So WHY not add some LEDs to illuminate your case? Especially since the cost difference is negligible at best... It usually costs just 5 or 10 dollars more. It RARELY double the cost of non LEDs variant 🤦♂️.
@@NoReply28 maybe it's more like putting a playing card on your bike to hit the spokes to make a vroom vroom noise. it's infantile and makes your computer look like las vegas
@@gusmueller4413why are you riding a bike anyways? That's so infantile.
@@kiro6119lmao if you’re 400 pounds and paralyzed I guess. People above the age of 10 ride bikes even if you don’t lmao
@@ohnobro3770 does your bike have a little bell on it too?
Small note: pcpartpicker will only give you a total wattage, not a recommendation. You would still need to do math to make sure you get one that has that 20-50% overhead power.
I thought power supplies are most effecient at like half their load too maybe not worth over speccing still
@@saiyaman9000 its 70% atleast it was in the old days.
@@saiyaman9000they best between 50-90%
most of the time your actual system wattage isn't even close to the total possible wattage your components can pull when 100% loaded. in the overwhelming majority of the time, it's _either_ your gpu or your cpu that's loaded near-100% (but rarely actually reaching that amount), and the other component is chugging along at like half power at most. unless you're running a 30-series gpu with the crazy transients of that generation, there's no need to have that much psu headroom on top of nominal tdp numbers. i ran a 4090 on a 650W psu for like nine months and even when i got crashes that felt like ocp, they turned out to just be case heatsoak.
most psus are the most efficient if you use them at half of their rated wattage, but if you're speccing them just above the combined theoretical maximum your components can pull, what you'll get in practice will be very close to that half power. my pc with the 4090 and a 7800x3d pulls like 450W from the wall when running a game but that includes 3x 27" 1440p monitors that are also on the same meter. the pc itself is likely closer to 350-400, which is _exactly_ where you want to be with a 750W psu.
if you were to overspec to a 1000W or above, like you're recommending here, it would not only be a massive waste of money, it would also knock the system completely outside the efficient range of the psu, unless it's running a full synthetic load
i ran 5600g + 5600xt on a 450W PSU. calculated supply was 310W on pcpartpicker. but that doesnt calculate the case fans and the usb peripherals.
blew up a couple of capacitors and fried the back of the pcb ( of PSU ).
to sum it up don't try to push it to the limit for a prolonged time. 100W headroom is more than enough.
I came here to learn what to look for when buying a new laptop. I've watched several of you videos and it's obvious your channel is more for people who already know a lot about this stuff already. It felt like I was a new 1st year uni student walking into a PhD course lecture. I know you are incredibly knowledgeable and help a lot of people, but unfortunately it's not for ignorant users like myself.
What great, and incredibly helpful content for newbies or those of us that are re-discovering our passion for PC building (I have forgotten more acronyms than you can imagine, being a certified OG).
But to your question on my opinion of wasted money in a build.
I would nominate Monitors.
for years now, I have used as big and capable of a TV as I could afford and have saved major $ doing so. I am currently rocking 55" LG tv and it is amazing. Granted, I don't play games at 150+ FPS, but hey, what I do play I really enjoy. Driving games are fantastic with such a huge field of view.
Anyway, I'm sure that I'll get roasted by everyone that spent major cash on their (small) curved monitors, but for better or for worse that is my opinion.
Should’ve just got an Xbox lol
I’ve gamed on console my whole life and still do but have the itch to build a pc and join the top g’s. I e been doing my research before I build one. Thanks to your videos I feel confident! Thank you for that and keep the videos coming! Great content
What is your budget?
There are ways to be sub $600 but you're going all used.
@@MrAnimescrazy don’t really have one. I have a good idea of what I’d like and know how overkill it is. I want the ryzen x3d and a 4090. Fast ddr5 liquid cooled. The phanteks nv5 case. Everything in my shopping cart comes to around 7500
@@MrAnimescrazy that’s in Canadian
@Killstreak4052 I would say to buy the build that you have in your cart. Can you list all of your parts? I have my first all white high end build with the gigabyte aero oc 4090/ 7800x3d/ 64 gigs of ddr5 in the white phanteks nv7 I built last year. I only use the pc for gaming and the pc is a beast. I clean the pc once a month and I use my 65 inch 4k LG c1 oled tv so I am limited to 120 fps but I can get a lot more especially if I use dlss3 but I dont use any upscalers because I dont need to. I play at native 2k or native 4k with or without ray tracing depending on the game.
I get that rgb is a "waste" of money but i like the aesthetic. Im building an all white build with rgb parts but from what ive seem the rgb parts were only costing me lik 10 or 20 bucks more and paying for white has been exactly the same as the black besides my case. Imo i dont think its a waste if you are willing to fork out extra for the aesthetic and are aware foregoing rgb will save you money. Its more about personal choice and taste. Kinda like racing stripes on a car.
I bought a Corsair AX1200i about 15 years ago, and I'm still using it in PCs as I build new ones. Expensive, but paid for itself in what new units would have cost in every subsequent build.
I know I spent a lot of time making sure I didn’t waste money on with my new PC 👍
Great vid, this is exactly what ive been trying to tell my friends who were building their pcs, a lot of people still overspec their mobo and cooler and crazy case and cheap out on the GPU.
Sorry but it's not always true. At some point I changed mine case for more expensive one. And from cleaning it 5 times a year from dust. I just clean filters once or twice a year. I was so amazed that in can be so clean for so long without cleaning.
@@evan-du3vk Now you will have to tell me the model cause i need this.
All really good tips. Don't forget that you can upgrade items later on, the main thing is to just get a good motherboard out of the gate that will allow you to upgrade later on. Don't overspend on GPUs and CPUs... Those can get upgraded later (AMD has been good in recent history about keeping the same socket for a decent amount of time).
Isnt that the problem then? "Upgrade later". When is later, and when is the upgrade? Am I overspending now, or am I "upgrading"? When will it ever end, how do you conclude you are overspending or "futureproofing"?
The one tip is not to get the latest CPU or GPU unless it has features that the current generation doesnt have. And thats up to debate even.
Even motherboards that are 500-600 bucks are a waste of money for most people especially when processors come out every year and they change sockets every 2-3 years. The only thing I saw I with an expensive mb is ability to have higher speed ram and a little more i/o. As well as 2 8 pin cpu connectors instead if an 8 pin and a 4 pin. The high speed ram 8000 for example is probably not going to be achieved even with the 14900k and you wont notice it in games.
Thanks! Some good knowledges for PC's gadgets will cut cost for my unnecessary spending. 👍
There is a 4th Major category with RAM to consider besides capacity, speed, and timings and that is VOLTAGE. If you buy the wrong voltage RAM and set it to the rated speeds it can cause you to BSOD or Crash randomly.
Regarding RAM: A lot of new, popular games (such as Warzone) show noticeable benefits with 32GB. And for transfer speeds, you want 6000mhz if you're on Ryzen. Not more, not less. This is where it syncs with the infinity fabric, it's as good as it gets without going really deep into overclocking the fabric.
I use the g.skill flare x5 32gb cl 30 6000 MT/s with my 7900x3d.
Yeah the question should be do you need 64? 32 is the standard minimum these days. Titles such as DCS World .. or Docker! .. can greatly benefit.
@@JSmith73 you don't need 32 for 1080p if you don't stream.
@@Ghorda91080p is what you play at when you're stuck with a 10 year old hand-me-down. No one is building a new PC to game at 1080p.
@@conduit64 you build a new pc to play recent games.
I spend more than 1000$ on custom watercooling stuff, and i can state, that it was a waste of money. No performance gain, good air-cooled systems are more simple to use. The only i get is aesthetic and assembling fun.
Should have just went with aio.
Aesthetic gain for no improvement.
Money better saved or spent on better parts.
@@LeoInterVirAIOs aren't nearly as aesthetically and DIY pleasing as built from scratch water cooling. Also, those are less serviceable. Of course, they are a lot more cash-intensive.
So I went with an AIO, but that was me
There is a performance gain cuz you can overclock further
Also why tf did you spend 1k on it that is so unnecessary
@@deher9110 2 watercooled PCs. Waterblocks, pumps, radiators, tubes, tools and stack of fittings.
@@deher9110no performance gain for their use case obviously. There are lazy people like me who got an AIO expecting miracles, and I was disappointed enough to just swap back to a Noctua tower cooler when I got a new CPU. We don't all want to tinker.
@JayzTwoCents Can you make an updated video covering Content Creator and VIdeo Editing systems? My current system is about 8 years old, and is about at its limit with current software and such. It often freezes when video editing and sometimes even crashes/restarts. Also when I'm recording the audio blips/stumbles, which I don't know about until I'm editing the video. So I've got to build a new system, but on the best budget I can v/s beneficial specs. Thanks
Biggest waste of money is people not building for their use case. Cool if you have the money, but it just irks me when I help build systems with really high spec intels, Ryzen 9s or the new XDs, insane amount of ram, and 4090s only to run Minecraft, Fortnite, Lethal, etc. everything set to max and they’re using less than a fraction of what their specs have to offer, and fact of the matter is they never even get close.
That and building a monster machine for 4k, then forgetting to have room in budget to upgrade from 1080p monitor. whoops
I am your worst enemy, I'm currently saving up this year to be able to buy an rtx 5090 system with a 4k240hz oled/woled/qdoled... monitor. so that I can play overwatch 2. I already have a gaming laptop that gets 165fps on high settings.
This 💯. I shed a single tear when someone gets an enthusiast grade GPU and their main game is something that can run on a toaster. I myself though can't imagine spending $1000+ on a GPU and I play stuff that is far more demanding.
@@mysticking16 I’m with you there. I only bumped up when I got super serious into flight sims and vr stuff. Like said, if ya got the money well cool but still pains the soul a little 😂
@@theslayermate3466 I feel like people don't want to do their homework and will just spend the most money possible on whatever their buying. I hate to judge but I have a friend that has a Ryzen 9 and a 3090ti and his main game is overwatch 2. He does play at 4k though but is barely using half of the total vram. He does also have cities skylines 2 though.
@@Joe_Payne if you're going for 4k240 I can respect that. What really gets under my skin is when people spend thousands and underutilize their PC.
some motherboards are also overpriced...
I use my computer for audio production and gaming. Hardware requirements for both of these can overlap quite a bit.
Some thoughts:
I would get the highest wattage PSU at the best price-per-watt value. I'll explain why.
For reference, I have an AMD Ryzen 9 3950x, 128 gb Corsair DDR4 RAM, 8 gb Sapphire Radeon HD 5700XT Nitro+ on an ASUS Crosshair VIII Hero motherboard. It is powered by a Seasonic Prime 1300 watt power supply. All of this is in a Fractal EATX compatible desktop tower case. It has 4 5.25" bays and 8 3.5"/2.5" bays.
I built the system about five years ago and it is still going strong. So I am something of a power user. My systems cost several thousand dollars new, but I also expect them to last 10+ years across two or even three OS generations on the same hardware.
IMO, you can never go too far over in wattage as far as a power supply, especially when many Seasonic PSUs are warrantied for 12 years. You could easily run two systems into obsolescence using the same PSU. These PSUs are expensive up front at $300+ but over the long term they are a very good value.
Additionally, for audio production, one often needs multiple HDDs/SSDs running simultaneously: one drive for OS/DAW/plugins, one for sampled instruments, and a third drive to record to. Add on game drives and general storage drives, as well as alternative OS boot drives (I have Windows 10 on 2.5" SSD and Windows 11 on NVME), and suddenly the number of drives for the PSU to power increases quickly.
I currently have 8 drives and 1 optical drive running on my system with room for up to 20 drives if I use an ASUS NVME PCI-e card, 5.25" to 3.5"/2.5" bay adapters, and a SATA controller expansion card. It is much easier to use all of this internally than to fuss with external enclosures that require external power and often run more slowly than internal drives.
Most importantly, adding more power also stabilizes your system from unexpected freezes/crashes when demand for resources spikes.
This demand usually happens when web browsing. I have often had hundreds of browser tabs open with the intention of going back to read their pages but I never do. It is easy to fall into bad habits and leave those tabs open rather than bookmark them or consult history.
An annoying problem is Google Chrome becoming ever less efficient and using 100+ mb of RAM or more just to display a static webpage. This is nonsense. So you need more memory in there if you do a lot of web browsing and want to leave everything open instead of revisiting bookmarks and history.
What needs to change is graphics cards being so power hungry. New top of the line cards use as much wattage as an entire basic 300 watt power supply from 10-15 years ago.
Where does the need for more power end and more efficiency with less heat begin? Where will power supply wattage ratings be in 10-20 years?
When browsing a single webpage alone uses 100s of mbs of memory and when a PC uses more power than many heavy duty home appliances, it's time to start rethinking efficiency in software optimization and system components.
👍
"I have often had hundreds of browser tabs open with the intention of going back to read their pages" What did I just read?
@@Elrog3 You read:
""I have often had hundreds of browser tabs open with the intention of going back to read their pages."
To justify it so it doesn't seem strange:
So many browser tabs open is common. It's why browser windows can be named now and have themes. It's also why newer browser versions can open where they left off. We've come a long way since having only browser windows and no tabs in the 90s and early 00s.
It's that many people aren't going to have the fastest CPU in the newest socket mobo with the best chipset with the most memory because of how much it costs, so they don't leave so many browser tabs open when they only have 16 gb of memory.
Meanwhile, I skimp on the graphics card because I don't care about frame rates above 60 fps as long as it's in 4k because I play mostly strategy games. It's all personal preference.
@@AAAA-lt9hq Even if it was absolutely free to do it, I don't see how you take it that far. Its more work to sort through 100 windows or tabs than to just research the thing you wanted to find.
@@Elrog3 Because it's less trouble to sort through tabs than to bookmark something and create an extensively long bookmark list that requires nested menus to contain everything.
Also, I tab sites I intend to read once and disregard. I only bookmark sites I visit regularly.
Where tabs do get to be an issue is when one window has so many tabs they are too long for the window border and/or the boundaries between tabs disappear.
That is when you open another window to contain more tabs.
Browser extensions like Session Buddy make this much easier because they save copies of your previous sessions. I can see what I browsed years ago. SB also refreshes the page on a timer if needed.
Newer versions of Chrome open your session where you left off, but Session Buddy did it first. And Chrome cleans out your history after a three months or so.
In short, I don't read a single page at a time and close it. I read portions of several pages at various points throughout the day. This is the same way people used to read magazines.
If I need information from the tabs later, I keep them open and they come back whenever the browser session is restarted. Otherwise they are closed. If I need them much later, Session Buddy keeps track of them.
For me (and I didn't always think like this.. I too fell into the design desire trap) is the use of an AIO when an air cooler is perfectly okay. The longevity seems to be better, and they're cheaper to fix if anything (the fan) breaks. AIO's are beautiful, cool looking and the thought of cooling your PC with liquid is "so cyberpunk", yet often it's unnecessary. Case in point - for seven years I've been running my CPU (Ryzen 1600) on the stock air cooler.. I got a bit giddy so I decided to have an upgrade to a Cooler Master 212 RGB Black Edition to beautify things up a bit but it's still an air cooler.. very reliable and happy. Six months prior to writing this I swapped my CPU from the 1600 to a latter end of the AM4 platform 5700X CPU. The same cooler is still doing the same thing and it's happy.. very happy. Granted it you have an OTT CPU, overclocked to buggery then yep, an AIO may serve its purpose well, but I would be willing to guess that there are quite a few people out there running AIO's for no good reason.