Ford F-150 Front Brake Replacement (2010-2018)
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- Опубліковано 11 лип 2018
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In this video I show the steps and procedures necessary to replace front brake pads and brake rotors on an F1 50. If you have a Ford expedition or navigator these procedures will work just as well. Your 2010 through 2018 which is current. In this particular video I’m working on a 2015 with a 2.7 L eco-boost engine. The truck has 91,000 miles in is experiencing some brake noise upon stopping. While performing brake service on a vehicle please remember to use safety measures. Such as using it properly rated Jack and jackstands. Along with proper torque specs which are listed down below. If you have any questions please feel free to leave something in the comment section. If there’s videos help please feel free to like and subscribe. Thanks for watching
Parts/tools used in this video:
brake pads
www.oreillyauto.com/detail/b/...
PERFORMANCE ROTOR AND BRAKE PAD KIT:
amzn.to/2PNvk4v
Caliper compression tool:
amzn.to/2PT6oZH
torque specifications:
Brake caliper anchor plate bolts: 136 lb-ft
Brake caliper bleeder screw: 177 lb-in
Brake caliper flow bolt: 30 lb-ft
Brake caliper guide pin bolt: 27 lb-ft
Brake disc shield bolts: 159 lb-ft
Brake flexible hose to frame bracket bolt: 150 lb-in
Brake flexible hose bracket to spindle: 22 ft-lb
Brake tube fitting: 150 lb-in - Авто та транспорт
Awsome vid! Didnt show a ton of BS but got the point across perfectly. Thank you
Awesome and quick video. I’ll be attempting my first brake job on my 2016 f150 and seeing nearly the same vehicle with Torque specs mentioned puts my mind a bit at ease
Good video. I've been working on vehicles for 30+ years but I always do a quick youtube search when working on a vehicle I've never worked on. Just got a 2016F150 and I see it's no different than my old 2001. Thanks for the quick video confirmation before I do the brake job this weekend.
That was the best sweet and short video with every detail bud! Now i get to change my f150 breaks now.
Very detailed and precise steps for first timers, great video man! You’re truly a skilled person.
Thanks for keeping it simple and short with all the info I need and nothing I don't.
Thanks for this straight to the point vid! I just busted out a front and rear brake job using this vid and your other vid for the rear. I appreciate it!
Thanks much for this video. Dealer just quoted me $527 to change pads and rotors on my 2015 F150. I will be doing it myself. Like someone else said, no BS, straight to the point. Great video. Thanks again!
Bought the parts for 225$ at the auto parts store. The rest was easy.
Just got quoted a grand for mine.
@@eynont Holy crap! Do it yourself. Entire job cost me about $200. Pads and rotors included. I have done both front and rears and have had no issues at all with aftermarket parts. Go for it!
Doing mine tomorrow, great video thank you
This saved me SO much money! Thank you!
A big help thanks putting the pads on wrong is exactly what I did had to go back and fix after watching your video
Can you tell the pads are in wrong with out taking off the caliper ?
This video is concise and to the point, no added nonsense. Looking forward to saving money.
Thanks for an informative video thats not filled with opinions. Straight to the point. Keep up the good work
Awesome video, very helpful and now I can change my own brakes. Thank you!
Thanks, I've done many pad replacements this is very similar procedure and good to know there are no special tricks involved. Very good instructions here. thx again.
im getting ready to do mine. with 95000 miles on them. BUT i i will also drain the OLD fluid near the calipers!! this is a must as that fluid is burnt and never leaves that area!!
For the caliper pins don't use wheel bearing grease, use silicone ceramic grease, it will keep it's properties even in -20 temperatures.
Great 1st step man!!!! Love to see it.
This is a great no frills video that is refreshingly helpful.
thank you for the kind words!
great video, thanks for sharing
super important thing you pointed out about inner and outer pad locations, thank you
You bet bud!
Quality video! I have watched a few of your videos and they have excellent.
Great video buddy! It helped a lot. I had some squeaking that was embarrassing as hell lol I tried fixing it a couple ways then I just got new pads, hardware and watched your video! Now my brakes are fresh and silent!
Glad to hear bud! Great job
Great Job and Definitely Helpful for Changing My Brakes on 2015 F-150 XLT.
Very thorough and detailed!! Pays attention to specifics such as proper pad installations. 😊😊
Great video. Really helped me out, thank you
Thanks for making this easy for me!
Great video man, informative, not too much fluff
Great video! The only thing I would add for first timers, is to monitor the brake fluid reservoir for over-flowing, when you compress the brake calipers during the reinstall steps.
do you need to remove fluid after compressing piston, or will the level return to previous state once reassembled and brakes pumped?
@@kevn22 There is usually a full mark on the reservoir, but an inch below the surface of when the lid is on, will be fine usually.
Well done. Thank you.
Great video, thanks!
Thank you did not know how to change the brakes you made it very easy thanks
Thanks - great video.
Unreal products and customer service! #1
Eazy Peazy Straight forward and to the point. Thanks!
Appreciated the reminder on the "inside/outside" orientation of the pads.
Thank you!
YESSSSSSS AWESOMENESS
But. But......with shimmm. Piston does not even touch pad back. What gives?
Nice video, clean, exact, to the point.
Thank you very much for your support
Thanks for the video
Thanks for the help buddy
Cool video you stated tools needed. Exact reason I looked up video.
Good Day! Great video. Quick question is it the same procedure for 7 lug wheels? Thanks!
What size bolt was used to get the rotors off?
Hope it's as easy as you made it look. I got lost on the " putting pads on part. I'm guessing they just sit properly on that bracket then the caliper goes over top. It threw me after that when there was no pumping the air out of the line. All looked way more refined than my HS shop class in the late 80's. Thank you for video!
thats correct! make sure the wider brake pad goes in the inside position, ( towards the motor, and the skinny pad goes on the out side ( towards the street). thats what i was trying to explain.
Great video. Would have been greater if you showed how to remove the rotor when it’s stuck. Thanks for the specs.
super video! thanks. is it necessary to replace rotor? my 2017 f150 has 81000 miles and I'm starting to get a metallic scraping sound when applying brakes. thinking the front pads may be ready to go.
Pretty good
Thank you!!!!
Very good video thank you
Thank you Ill do mine today
I tried compressing the pistons and only one side went down and the other side shot out and starting leaking through the seals. Any advice?
Thank you!!
Excellent!!!
Is there supposed to be a metal brake line on the front caliper? Mine had a rubber line.
Thx man
Thank you well done 👍
Is this the same for rear brakes
To torque the brake caliper anchor plates bolts, are you using the 1/2 in torque wrench to get the required 136lb-ft? Also, I've been seeing a lot of other videos saying 184lb-ft, any chance you could share where you saw 136lb-ft?
EXCELLENT !!! A VERY well done video !! Thank you !!!
Hello, maybe you can watch my video and develop a new idea!
Here is a video of me replacing a brake pedal on a Ford with a diagnostic device: ua-cam.com/video/4ek5c-ljOpk/v-deo.html, you can watch it, it might help you.
Your the man bro! Thank you.
Hello, maybe you can watch my video and develop a new idea!
Here is a video of me replacing a brake pedal on a Ford with a diagnostic device: ua-cam.com/video/4ek5c-ljOpk/v-deo.html, you can watch it, it might help you.
Worth researching but some of those caliper and caliper mounting bolts are 'torque to yield' (stretch) type bolts and the service manual procedure will suggest replacing them each time you disassemble the components.
You have a video doing the rears?
why is it so hard to find Mototrraft rotors for the front. No one carries them, and what is the product number?
Awesome...warmer days..I can do that..thanks
What about the brake bleeder being open to not damage the ABS system by reversing brake fluid flow when compressing the cylinders?
GREAT
I was going to do my breaks, but this changed my mind
Brakes
Hell yeah. Great info.
My 2017 xlt had this nasty squeal like HUGE NOISE.
BOUGHT USED. But. I was like must be dirty pads. No biggie
NO WAY. JUST NOW I TAKE A LOOK. TAKE OFF PADDS. HAS BOTH INNERS ON DRIVER SIDE. 😵😡😠HOW AND W** WHO DOES THIS. PADS WORN SO AWKWARD. I CANT EVEN EXPLAIN IT. So passenger must have both outers. 😲
I bought new set. Installed. My wheel is free at last. Was binding when I jacked up . could not rotate it by hand. Thank you for video. I was looking up why or what or 😣😵 ....seen your video. Saved me ...inner....outter. YESSSS
That’s awesome! I’m glad this video helped out! Sure is a good feeling know my it’s done right!!
Great video and thanks for providing the torque specs!
I'm a little confused because in the video you specify:
Brake Caliper Guide Pin Bolt = 27 lb-ft
But in the video description you specify
Brake caliper guide pin bolt: 55 lb-ft
I've briefly searched and not much is coming up for 2015 and newer specs. Just wanted to see if you can clarify which value is correct? I assume the description is probably more up to date if there were any mistakes in the video.
I have a 2015 F150 Lariat 4x4 3.5L Eco boost
Thanks!
looks like i messed up, it is in fact 27 ft-lbs. sorry for the confuse, its fixed now! thanks!!
Do you always replace the rotor?
Do you have to push parking brake on?
What torque wrench did you use?
For a novice, how long should this take?
Did you have to bleed the brakes in the front?? On this truck
Great Video. Has anyone else seen 184 ft/lb for the Anchor plate bolt? When I search 2010 f150, I mostly see that torque spec.
Thanks for putting this up. If you aren't replacing rotors, can you leave the caliper bracket in place and just remove the housing with the piston?
Yes you can do that
Great videos - keep ‘em coming!
Couple points
1) didn’t see you lube the sliders - just not in the video or shouldn’t be done?
2) Ford has updated the pads retrospectively back at least as far as 2015 - no longer an inside/outside - just one shape and interchangeable
3) just a note that the rotors I ordered said to not use brake cleaner- just mild soap (power stop Z36), so reminder to check instructions on parts ordered
Isn't there a risk of damaging the ABS unit pushing the brake fluid back to the reservoir?
So there's no need to bleed the brakes other than pumping the brakes?
Thank you, I've got rotors & ceramic pads ordered, and thought I'd get some tips for the job. I've done brakes before, but one can not know everything (or remember) since we don't do them that often. Also, did you put grease on the sliders for the pads? Appreciate your well executed rotor/pad changeover!
Hello, maybe you can watch my video and develop a new idea!
Here is a video of me replacing a brake pedal on a Ford with a diagnostic device: ua-cam.com/video/4ek5c-ljOpk/v-deo.html, you can watch it, it might help you.
why did you not release release the bleeder
Helps
Just did this job on a 2015 F150 4x4. Found pads on left side reversed. Pad intended for inner position jammed in caliper because lobes on backing plate hung up in caliper. There are large vent holes that need to line up with lobes on pads. Last person to do these brakes screwed up. Too bad. Other pads were 80% good.
Great video. I noticed you didn’t say anything about bleeding the brakes though.
So. The F150 isn't like other Ford vehicles where you don't need the special tool that spins the piston while compressing it?
how do you know when to change the rotors?
I change my rotors when they have a significant lip on the outer edge where the pads do not wear. There is a thickness spec on the rotor usually and you can measure it to see if the rotor is still above the minimum thickness. Alternatively, to replacing, you can have them turned which grids off a small amount of the rotor face for a fresh level surface. Turning is way more economical if the rotors are still in good condition.
What are your thoughts on opening the bleeder screw when compressing the pistons ? Iv seen it on another video and read about it online. Kinda mixed opinions from what iv read.
ive done it both ways. ive never had an issue not opening the bleed screw and pushing the fluid bad into the master cylinder.
Aaron Hines thanks for the reply. I ended up just leaving them be. The pistons retracted with relative ease. My first time doing my own brakes. Knock on wood everything seems fine been driving for couple days no issues feels good
Aaron, Nice job on your video. I am a strong advocate of cracking the bleeder screw during piston retract. With anti lock brake systems, you don’t want to risk sending any old dirty fluid to into the anti lock system. The fluid in the caliper is subject to extreme heat and cooling cycles. Moisture is always a concern since brake fluid is hydroscopic. Actually even conventional systems benefit from removing this fluid. One other note, the reservoir cap is not vented, only the air space above the rubber. If the bleeders are not cracked or fluid removed from the reservoir during piston retraction, the fluid can overfill the reservoir.
did the rotors have any screws holding them down? thanks.
E. S. No
Dose this apply to a 4x4 as well?
yes it does
Do you always have to change the rotosr? I have 63000 miles on my 2016
Same question here
so you did or didn't need to bleed the brake lines afterward?
you do not need to bleed the break system.
is it better to change the rotor every time you change that pads?
not unless the worm to thin. you can take them to most part stores and get them turned for about 20 bucks a piece.
I have been watching several videos in replacing brakes on my f150 2013. Most just press the fluid back up in the reservoir. One tech video I watched said to NEVER compress the calipers until you loosen the bleeder valves. They stated the back pressure could ruin the ABS module and result in a costley repair..What you say about this?
Also wondering the same thing. I think we may have watched the same video. It seems like there was only one that mentioned using the bleeder valve. However, I also saw a decent amount of comments on that video that stated she should NOT have opened the bleeder because it could introduce air into the system. Anyways, I'm getting ready to do the brakes, front and back, on my 2012 F150 XLT and would also like to know if I really should do this or not ... anyone?
@@krismcdougall I heard it was because the fluid in the caliper gets the dirtiest and goes through the most heating cycles, so you don't want to push that fluid back up the line, but rather drain it out the bleeder. I'm still debating how I want to do mine. I don't exactly want to bleed my brakes at the end of the day after opening them during the piston compression. When I did my Mustang in the past I never opened a bleeder and they always worked fine.
The fluid is designed to be able to freely move in the opposite direction, so compressing the calipers has no ill effects. The ABS deals with major back pressure at all times when breaking as well as when the ABS is activated. The back flow of old, heat abused fluid is a misnomer. The fluid actually will slowly migrate through the entire system, very slowly, over time and temperature deferential.
There is something to be said for releasing the the fluid in order to remove any absorbed water and sediment and possible trapped air. Bleeding brakes should always be done when installing new pads but of course it’s something that can be skipped, unless the brakes do not feel solid.
If you don’t have an assistant to bleed the brakes, you can purchase break bleeding kits for under 20 bucks for the pumps and under $10 for the basic bottle and hose. There is even the ones with one way check valves and hoses that work well.
After removal and cleaning, use dielectric grease on caliper slide pins, instead of wheel bearing grease, before re-installation.
This is dumb
I'd use high temp, silicone ceramic grease, made for brakes. Put it on the pins and slides
I love when manufacturers dont get ridiculous with their design. Nice basic brake job, just like 80% of vehicles for the last 30 years. "If it aint broke, dont fix it" but some manufacturers are installing electronic brakes and all that crap. Ill literally probably drive an under 2020 vehicle for the remaing 40 or so years i have left. Im glad Ford has (for the most part) kept it simple for the DIYers
👍
crack the bleed valve on the caliper before compressing the pistons. Also, the reservoir of fluid in the calipers so it's good to purge that bit is old, and usually cooked. otherwise you may push contaminate the upstream system which is a huge issue.
Did you need brake fluid after open the bleeder ?
Should I use any oil/grease on the slides that the pads sit in?
Not needed. But it shouldn’t hurt anything if you do
Should I be worried if the piston dust boots don’t look exactly the same on both pistons? One is wrinkled and folded a little different then the other
@@OnlyOneRyanZiegler no that is normal. no issue with that.
Inspect and clean the caliper pistons prior to compressing the pistons back into the caliper.
Saw another video that mentioned opening a bleeder screw before pushing the pistons back. Anyone know if that Is necessary? Or does venting the reservoir take care of that?
No need to open a bleeder screw. The fluid will go back into the reservoir no problem
Due to air getting in the lines and calipers, the calipers need to be bled. I've changed lots of brakes and have always had to do this!
should you open the bleeder screw before compressing the pistons?
No need to do that
Why does 90 percent of other videos on the f150 say you must open it up? Or risk messing up the abs sensor.
I actually did it. Why risk it
@@klow6628 no since he opened the brake fluid reservoir so it's preference either the reservoir or the bleeder screw.