Framing a Van + Plus Nuts + Floating Bed Frame Part 1 //Ep. 4 DIY VAN BUILD
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- Опубліковано 10 кві 2020
- In this episode of our Van Build Series we make a trip to Lowe's Home Improvement for furring strips to frame our van. We start by adding our bed frame's floating head and foot boards and finish this video by completing our horizontal framing members. We utilized plus (or cross) nuts to allow us to bolt in the framing pieces to the vans structural frame. Each plus nut is rated to a 1215 lbs pull out force. This will give added rigidity, a very secure frame to screw in our cabinets in the future, and piece of mind that our walls wont fall apart. Make sure to check out Part 2 of framing!
• How to Frame a Van + K...
Products we used in this project-
Furring Strips, 1x4~ www.lowes.com/pd/1-x-4-x-8-ft...
Furring Strips, 1x3~ www.lowes.com/pd/1-x-3-x-8-ft...
Plus (cross) nuts~ amzn.to/2BsvFH9
Plus (Cross) Nut Tool (Wrench-Driven)~ www.mcmaster.com/installation...
Milwaukee Drill~ amzn.to/2ZGusEr
Milwaukee Step Bits~ amzn.to/2Al9QsB
Drill Bits~ amzn.to/2VEWUFs
Shop-Vac~ amzn.to/2VBgwKF
Rustoleum Brush-on~ amzn.to/38kZN32
Craftsman Jigsaw~ amzn.to/2YQaRSO
Rachet Set~ amzn.to/3dNBTi4
Safety Glasses~ amzn.to/2BSj002
Kneeling Pad~ amzn.to/2ZrxKuX
Gloves~ amzn.to/31BmAqi
Buy a MoonShade! $30 Off with code: trailvagabonds ~ moonfab.com/trailvagabonds
Buy Havelock Wool~ havelockwool.refr.cc/trailv
Shop Goal Zero Products~
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great video! :D we are starting our framing pretty darn soon!
Thank you!😊 Looking forward to seeing how you tackle it in your video!
good job
Thanks!
Nice work Matt, thanks for sharing!
No problem! I hope it can be helpful to you! 😊
Awesome video guys. Matt you are so methodical! I'm learning so much from your videos for my NEXT vanbuild since it's too late for this one lol. Great stuff
Thank you!😊 The little bit I learned going to school for Engineering😂 I do really hope these videos are informational for those looking for a resource. Whether it's the 1st, 2nd, or 10th van build😉
Good job 👍
Thank you, Kevin! 😊
I am happy I found your content. I will be watching
Glad you found us too!😎 We'll keep the videos coming 🙌🏼
Nice job. Nice Dog. Looking forward to viewing part II and your other videos.
Thanks! I hope they can be helpful! Are you starting a build of your own?
@@Trailvagabonds Thank you for your reply. Yes I am about to start on my second hand Mercedes Sprinter extra high top and extra long wheelbase. I will be starting by fitting three Fiamma (made in Italy) 40cm (15.5 inches) roof windows and then framing out the van. I will also be fitting side windows. A daunting prospect. Best wishes to you both on your build.
@@barry-cq4xg congrats! That is very exciting! After the initial hole is cut, they get easier. The fan install was my first experience cutting holes in the van and it is still by far my most stressful project. You got this! Reach out if you ever have a question 🙌🏻
@@Trailvagabonds Hi Matt & Katie. Thank you for your reponse. I have watched many YTube videos on these roof lights and they seem fairly straightforward to install. I will certainly contact yo if I have any questions. Best wishes to you both.
Caught that LeAw reference in the intro. I was planning on using hanger bolts to locate the plus nut locations, but I like your idea of using the 1x3 as a template. I"m considering using an ATV ramp as the bed frame.
😂 When I was editing the video I didn't know why I opened like that and it had reminded me of something. Maybe I watched one of their videos that morning?🤔 I like your idea of hanger bolts. I thought about it but just didn't want to make another trip to the hardware store since it's usually an ordeal to get there in back, haha. Seemed to work out alright with the template. I like your idea of the ATV ramp. I originally wanted to do 8020 aluminum but it's so expensive. As you'll see in a future video, I'm just using five 2x4s to span the gap and will reinforce them in between (I'm laying them flat which isn't really advised for structural support🤷🏼♂️). Then 1/2" birch ply on top. It's seemed sturdy enough. Hopefully no issues down the line.
for the "bed" I am doing a simple couch with the back to come off for the bed. I am leaving the drivers side totally naked. . the wall will be my proj screen. for electric I invested in a Bluetti2400. simple. when I get close to departure if I have "spare" $ I will do solar panels and a few Battleborn. planning to use altern tor and a small propane generator for charging. ordered this AIO hot water system. with pump shower heater and sink outdoor shower will be in the rear of van with enclosed aluminum frame ...like I said no cold weather !! I had retired to Caribbean till Hurricane IRMA destroyed my home. So now at age 68 starting over . always an adventure.
When talking about the M8 bolt holes, are you talking about the tie-down points? I want to continue to use the tie-down points for my motorcycle, but also want to use them to help hold down the flooring - which is currently just a floating structure over a commercially fitted pad. If the M8s are the tie down points, all I'll need to do is find a longer version and I'm golden :)
Yep, that's exactly what I am talking about! 👍🏼👍🏼
Great Vid, Curious if you feel that the random placements of the kil Mat has made much difference we definitely noticed plenty of road noise and are just getting ready to start our build.
Congrats on taking the plunge into diy building! It definitely helped out. Especially the wheel wells, which would have very loud rock pings. They are dulled substantially with the sound deadener. Depending on the insulation you use, like wool, it also does a good job of sound dampening so you could possibly get away without it and have a quiet ride that way. Hope that helps. Cheers!
just started watching. I am doing my 170xt. today I am doing the foam. I have the 4 cyl motor (by choice)n so I am trying to be super light weight. did vfoam reflectix stuff against all the metal. now I will do a 1" foam. THEN an airspace . for siding I am using the wood-colored reflex stuff. As I have no plans to ever be in cold climate again heat is my biggest issue and I think reflecting is better than insulating ? I( am framing in the sliding door area and the rear of the van. then a glass slider in the wall behind van slider. in the rear the wall will have an a/c and windows. . otherwise I am keeping the van open as I have 4 dogs and they need room. removing pax seat and build cage/platform. keeping bulkhead with a small door for dogs to access their pax cage ..no windows in the a ctual van just in the inner framing so I can totally close / secure the van at night. during day leave van slider and both rear doors open ! this is what happens after watching hundreds of videos !! I am studying yours. What is "level" ??? HA !!
Congrats on the van and starting your build!🙌🏼 We too have a house full of dogs and they are definitely in our thoughts when building the space. When we hit the road full time we hope to chase 70 degrees fahrenheit. No windows is very smart for climate control. Working in the van on warm days is already so hot. We'll definitely need insulated window covers. As for insulation choices, I think it's very personal. We went with wool but think you can't go wrong utilizing what your research tells you. Every van is different and getting out on the road is what drives us! 😊
Oh and level is soooooo subjective? 🤷🏼♂️. I've just been going off my eye in the end 😂
We did foam insulation as well!
Excellent videos and I am learning a ton from them. Another questionWhat length did you trim you 2x10 head and footboards to? Thanks.
Thank you! 😊 I cut them down to the exact width of a queen, 60", since we went with an RV queen mattress
Thanks for sharing! Couple of questions - why did you need to drill to make the holes bigger in the van, could you have used the original holes?
And I see you have “Kilmat” - is that insulation or sound dampening? And how come it’s just in squares rather than a template shape covering all of the metal?
In my initial research I didn't find what the sizes of the holes were before buying the 1/4-20 size. If you want to purchase different sizes for the different factory holes you can definitely do that and I don't blame you for not wanting to drill. Scroll the comment section because people have talked about sizes within. I decided on one product across the board and I felt OK about drilling out or drilling new holes, shop vaccing metal shards, and treating them with rustoleum.
Kilmat is a sound deadener in my research only 25% of the metal panels need to be covered to do its job. I have a short video talking about it as well~ ua-cam.com/video/QnGu4TSrB7A/v-deo.html It works to take vibration out of the metal panels. We used Havelock Wool for insulation. It covers all of the space. There is a video on that too. Check out our full build playlist for more helpful videos. We have over 30 with more in the works since we are still building our van currently 👍🏼
Great video! Two questions--1. You mentioned a 38" height under for bikes but most videos seem to mention 36" being enough--did you need or want more room for some reason? 2. Your 2x10 is a massive board, I wonder if there's a way to use something thinner and lighter? Use a 1x10? Good stuff--thank you!
Thank you! 😊 It means a lot to hear people like them.
My main concern was our gravel bikes without dropper/quick release seat collar. I didn't want to worry about upgrading the bike or having to mess with it every time we ride (definitely a personal preference). There is plenty of space above our mountain bikes that 36" would have been ample I believe. For the board, I guess I wanted something that felt more solid. A 2x10 has an actual width of 1.5". A 1 inch board would be 3/4". I was worried about structural integrity but I can't speak to if a 1x10 could handle the weight.
I talk more about the bed height/bike situation in our Drawer Slide and Bed videos so they may be helpful to watch. Hope that helps!
what length of the 1/4 20 and m8 machine screws did ya use?
I used long enough to make a solid connection but not too long to interfere with the metal behind. I think the average sizes were 1-1/2" or 2"
I was looking for a video like this, thank you! What makes a Plus Nut better than a Rivet Nut in this situation?
Glad you've found the videos, I hope they can be helpful! The main difference is the surface area. A plusnut has more surface area on the metal than rivet nuts do giving it an overall pull out strength that is higher. I definitely think rivet nuts have their place and could possibly be a solution as many people do use them. Plusnuts made me personally feel more confident. Hope that helps!
@@Trailvagabonds Thanks for the answer! Makes 100% sense. I'll consider the Plus Nut then!
Hey Matt,
What size & kind of wood did you use for the head & footboards - 1 x 10s?
Thanks!
I went with a 2x10. It ends up being 1.5"x9.5" nominal. With where I mounted it on the vans frame, it gave us exactly 38" to the bottom of the bed frame
I'm pretty sure it was this one
www.homedepot.com/p/2-in-x-10-in-x-12-ft-2-Prime-Kiln-Dried-Southern-Yellow-Pine-Lumber-852554/202085950
@@Trailvagabonds bless u! thanks so much for getting back
Your build has been a huge inspiration! Thanks for the video work AND build work! - Do you remember the width between plus nuts that you did for the frame? You said “predetermined” but was that 12” or 15”, or? And any reason for that? Just got a new ProMaster today so working with basically an identical ‘setup’. Thanks in advance!
Congrats on the van and for the diy plunge!🙌🏻 Thanks so much! I'm glad they can be helpful and inspirational!
The main thing I meant by predetermined was that I found openings on the framing that didn't have other holes that would interfere/be difficult to utilize (like the hex holes). I wanted to make sure to space them out fairly evenly and not have any greater than 14" apart. Most members I had 2 outer screws and then equally spaced in between. I also utilized the M8 utility bolts where I could to not have to drill more holes than I needed to. Hope that helps! Definitely reach out if you ever have other questions or want to bounce ideas off of someone!
@@Trailvagabonds Thanks for getting back so quick! I have the m8’s as well and since I’m not doing as high of a bed lift as you guys I can actually run the 1x3 from the m8 on the far left (back of the van) to the m8 on the far right of the frame rail and hopefully not have to go laser level intense like you did! Thanks for the tips!
** 1x4’s **
Haha, and I'm sure I could have done it differently and not spent so much time trying to figure it out the way I did. I'm happy to be able to give confidence to those diy building by showing how I don't always know exactly what I'm doing 😂
That's awesome you will be able to span the whole space! I'd love to see your progress sometime!
hey so im doing my framing now, looking at the horiztonal framing member above the floating bed frame, and im a bit confused how to get it to sit flat against the van frame, since the piece is kindof curvey. what size wood piece did u use for those spots?
ah hey no worries actualy i just checked part 2, makes sense now!
Sounds good. I was in the mtns cross country skiing without service so sorry I didn't answer yesterday at all 👍🏼
Which size plus nut wrench driver did you use? 1/4 -20 I presume.
"Wrench-Drive Rivet Nut Installation Tool for 1/4"-20 and 1/4"-28 Thread Size"
Yep, that's the one. I heard really bad reviews for some of the ones sold on Amazon. I definitely recommend the tool I bought from the link below. It comes with different size bolts, just gotta make sure you pair it with the plus nuts if you were to use a different size
www.mcmaster.com/installation-tools-for-smooth-rivet-nuts/
I bought that tool looks like big pliers ?
@@CaribbeanZapatta I used the wrench-driven style rivet but tool. It's a bolt and big nut. I believe you can use the plyer style no problem but I have no experience with them myself
Can you tell me the thickness of the 10” headboard you used?
It was a standard 2x10 so the actual thinkness is 1.5" I do believe
Hi guys! I'm getting ready to order my plus nuts. Are the 1/4-20 the only size you used in your van build? How many did you end up using? Thanks!
Yes, I only purchased and used 1/4-20 size but there are other sizes that fit the factory holes that people have talked about in the comments if you are interested in that. I didn't want to hassle with more than one size though. I bought a single bag and I still have a decent amount left over. Glad to hear you are moving along with the build! 🙌🏻
FYI, these hex nuts (www.amazon.com/dp/B01MS63NZ7?psc=1&ref=ppx_yo2_dt_b_product_details) work well for the PM hex holes - and don't spin. I'm using them as they have the same M8 bolt pattern as the tie downs and I'm using 1/4-20 plus nuts for the round holes to supplement the hex nuts. I'm sure I will end up drilling several new holes as needed just as Matt has done.
@@johnhaug8317 thanks very much for that info John!
What length bolts did you guys use? I am pretty behind on my build. Got 3 of 4 windows installed, as well as 1 max air fan, but haven’t started on the interior framing yet.
@@SoCalKevin your bolt length depends on the materials you are securing. My floor took 2 inch (1/8 vinyl+3/4 ply+1/2 NPS). Be aware that most SS bolts are lagged, and you may run out of threads. I learned this the hard way before my 87th trip to the hardware store. :)
HI GUYS What tires did you put on the VAN?
Don't they look badass?!😎 BF Goodrich TA K02s in the stock size for the ProMaster, 225/75R16. With some wheelwell trimming you can fit 245s. Do you have a ProMaster?
I like your wheels and tires you chose. Do you have links for those? Thanks
The wheels are actually the stock Promaster ones but in black, I think it was considered an up charge when we purchased the van. The tires are the BF Goodrich TA K02s in the stock size 225/75R16 ~ www.americastire.com/buy-tires/bfgoodrich-all-terrain-t-a-ko2?storeCode=1752
@@Trailvagabonds
Ty! Getting ready to upgrade soon
No problem! Your van will look badass! 😎
@@Trailvagabonds Thanks for the great content! Did you have to modify the rear wheel well and moulding to fit the KO2s? I've seen that clearance has been an issue with the Promaster. I'm building out a 4 season bike/ski rig and want to upgrade my tires (and paint/powdercoat my wheels) and am contemplating that hack.
Many people will upgrade to 245s and then you need to modify the wheelwell but we stuck with the stock size 225s and no modifications were needed
Did you choose to not use the precut hexagonal and circular holes because of the difficulty of sizing and finding the right the size of plus or hex nut? It seems like the logical decision to use the 3/8 on the step bit to me, finding and sourcing ones that fit the factory holes seems very challenging to get right. However I’m somewhat concerned about metal shavings falling in an inaccessible inside the frame that’s outside of the suction of the shop vac and rusting. Any thoughts on this? I’ve heard some people use a magnet to try and catch them
A magnet in a sock or paper bag would work well. I tried to put most of my holes near the larger holes in the ribs for easier access with the shop vac. It's a tough call. Some people get angry about drilling holes like I did. Some find it makes it easy to put them where you need them. It ends up being a very personal decision and I would just lost the pros and cons and go with your gut. Before I started the project I couldn't find the exact sizes but someone did comment with them if you browse through the comments.
@@Trailvagabonds right, I see you, this is definitely a question you’ll get a lot of different answers on. When you say you used a magnet in a sock, where did you place it?
@@Trailvagabonds ah I didn’t realize that plus nuts had a stronger pull out strength than hex nuts. I wonder how significant that difference is, whether the strength difference its enough to be worth the trouble of drilling. If I do end up drilling, I think I’ll make a lil vacuum snake with some flex seal tape and some flexible conduit to reach inside the frame. Could most likely get all the metal shavings that way.
@@Trailvagabonds ah I just talked to jay cee rivets, they said that the m6 (1/4-20) hex rivet nuts have around a 480 lb pull out strength and the (1/4-20) plus nuts have a 1200 lb pullout strength. (Each of course) That seems to me to be overkill but there might be a physics problem there that I don’t understand haha. Hope that helps anyone else grappling with this decision.
@@danielkopaee9241 yep, there is a difference in pull out strength. One reason I personally felt really good about the 1/4"-20 size plus nut. Lots of people use rivet nuts with success and swear by them so I wouldn't be afraid to use them. Buying a few different sizes is also a larger expense but it could be worth it to not worry about the mess. I think you are on to something making your own vacuum snake! The nice thing about step bits is they pull shavings out better than a regular drill bit leaving hopefully less shavings that could possibly be missed
How come you didn’t just use the existing holes and drill them a little bigger?
Most of the existing holes were either hex head or larger than the 1/4"-20 plus nuts. A few of the holes that were small I did drill out larger (some being in the ceiling and along the floor). Someone else commented that there are m6 hex head rivet nuts that fit the hex holes if you are hoping for that. In my research I found a lot of people used the 1/4"-20 size so I purchased those and did my best to minimize drilling when I could.
Can you not use the holes already in the van?
Hi Brandon! There are different sized holes. I purchased 1/4"-20 plus nuts and they only fit a select few. If you look through the comments there are a few conversations about what size holes there are in a Promaster. I opted to go with a single size and drill out because I personally felt good about it as an option. If you would rather get the correct size plus nuts and hex rivet nuts to fit the varying holes, I don't blame you. I'm presenting what I decided on in this video and will be the first to say there are many available options and as long as you are confident in your choice it will be the right one for you. Hope that helps! Let me know if you have other questions 🙌🏻
Can you show the bolts you used. I'm trying to learn the process so I can try some of this myself, but I need to see what a plus nut is and how it works. More detail would be appreciated!
The Plus Nut can be found at this address. They are like a nut you would put on a bolt but will hold in place in the holes in the metal as seen in the video
www.amazon.com/Steel-Cross-Nut-Pre-Bulbed-pre-bulbed/dp/B008VGWFAI
This is the link to the tool. The 1/4"-20 size. It comes with a bolt to use with the tool.
www.mcmaster.com/installation-tools-for-smooth-rivet-nuts/
As for bolts, I used stainless steel 1/4-20 machine screws so they screw into the plus nut with a normal Philips head screw driver.
www.boltdepot.com/Machine_screws_Phillips_flat_head_Stainless_steel_18-8_1_4-20.aspx
The length is dependent on your material.
Or you can get hex heads or a bolt head, whatever you'd prefer. If you have Facebook or Instagram, send us a message on there if you'd like to talk through it more. Our info is at the bottom of any video description. Hope that helps!
@@Trailvagabonds - Hey Matt - Just wondering what length of bolt you would recommend?
@@JamieDeanStevens Hey there! It really depends on the wood you are attaching. For the bed pieces I used 3" machine screws (if I'm remembering right). For the framing members I used mostly 1.5-2" I think. I wanted as much attachment length I could get into the plus nuts without hitting the wall of the van. The more solid the connection the better I figured. Hope that's helpful. I think it will really be depended on your material and the amount of space you have to work with.
@@Trailvagabonds Cheers Matt. Appreciate the quick response :) I'll start stock piling those lengths.
@@JamieDeanStevens No worries! All the best with your build! 🙌🏻
How much of that dampening mat did you order?
I went with one box of 36 sq ft. I kinda wished I had a little extra because I didn't have enough for the doors but budgeting for other projects, it made sense. Here's the video on it if you are interested~ ua-cam.com/video/QnGu4TSrB7A/v-deo.html
@@Trailvagabonds Thank you! Just got my Ram Promaster. Your videos are a wealth of knowledge!
@@JB-fr5zr Congrats on the van, that is so exciting! Enjoy the process and patience is key are my main pieces of advice. I hope the videos will be helpful to you. Don't be afraid to reach out if you want to bounce an idea off of someone 🙌🏻
Why didn't you decide on using the preexisiting holes in the van?
When I did my initial research I didn't find the exact size for all the different holes and decided to use a single product rather than buying different sized rivet nut and plus nuts. I did drill out some of the existing holes to fit. Others were too large for the 1/4"-20 size. If you read through the comments on this video, people have talked about the size of the different holes in the Promaster. If you'd rather do it that way, I don't blame you🙌🏻
@@Trailvagabonds thanks for the info. Loving the content, been lots of help so far.
Glad to hear! Hope your build goes well! 😎
hey, just curious what wood the furring strips are
They are standard 1x3 and 1x4 furring strips from Lowes. I linked them in the description box. They should be pretty standard at any store that sells lumber if you don't have a Lowes near by. Hope that helps👍🏼
@@Trailvagabonds ah hey never saw this, much appreciated!
@@danielkopaee9241 No worries! Hope your build is going well!
@@Trailvagabonds going great! Nearly finished with the thinsulate, planning out electrical as well. I’ll def send u guys some pics when it’s done!
@@danielkopaee9241 sounds great! Hope our videos have been helpful! 🙌🏻
I don't completely understand why it's okay to drill into the van if it has potential to cause rust. Some people just straight up drill self tapping screws therefore they are certainly going to cause rust if this is true. In your case, you are vacuuming as much as you can and using rust-oleum on the exterior of the rib, but given my experience with noticing rust spots on my van after installing the fan even after cleaning, it seems to me that it's inevitable that rust will form given the fact that moisture will certainly be a factor and you won't be able to 100% clean metal shavings. And in hard to reach and view places, like the inside of a rib, seems like it would be dangerous to do this. I'd love to know your opinions on this matter.
A lot to unpack in this comment... I tried to be strategic in my hole placement to allow for cleaning up the metal shavings. Holes underneath (the large oval holes on the bottom of the ribs) where the drill holes were. This aided in cleaning shavings up with a vacuum and also a magnet in a paper bag by sliding it in (which I didn't share footage of in the episode). For applying Rustoleum you can get into the backside of the hole with a q-tip or small paint brush and I did try and make sure there was extra coverage and gave ample dry time. That is the nice thing about a step bit, it is a very clean hole.
My biggest reason for using the cross nuts was ultimately for pull out strength which I do mention. They are much stronger than a self tapping screw, not to mention a bolt can be removed and replaced as much as you need. Self tappers don't give you this ability without hurting its integrity. If you are agreeing rust will happen in your comment, wouldn't self tappers then not allow you to even try to mitigate it with Rustoleum?
I have never once said I have the right or only answer to things, and I do try and spell that out in my videos. People have always used self tappers in van builds and I don't fault them for it. I came to the conclusion to use cross nuts after the research I did and I am only presenting what I decided to do with my build. My main goal for my channel is to show anyone wanting to convert a van that they can do it and I hope to help give confidence, that needed push, or even make someone dream about doing it in the future by showing an average guy can make it happen. I hope that answers what you were trying to get at with your comment. If you want to chat more about it so I can understand you better, reach out on Instagram or by email. All the best in your build if you are still in the middle of it!
I don't understand why vanlifers don't use the existing mount points with the right hardware. What is the deal?
The average Promaster hole is a hexagon. Plus nuts will spin and be unusable in them. Otherwise they are very large or too small. It's a bummer. It would be really nice for Ram to get on board with making them useful. The Transit is one of the vans that have the perfect size holes for them so you don't have to do any modifying
@@Trailvagabonds They're M6 hex rivet nuts.
Thanks for sharing. Hopefully people read the comments here and see another option to use. In my research I felt confident in plus nuts because of their strength. There isn't much info out there about the hex rivet nuts- at least I didn't find them in my research. Hopefully as more people build their vans they will share that knowledge to help the community. I'm only offering what I did as a tool for others. Thanks for watching and sharing your expertise! 🙌🏻
rust .everyone is so paranoid about rust reality we all will have traded in these vans for new ones in a year or two so we can build 2.0 ! BUT I also sat there with the vacuum and a big magnet catching every speck of metal. so silly .... to buy my Sprinter I sold an AUDI I owned for 30 years ! With only 60,000 miles it looked brand new. Then I bought a Mercedes with 180.000 miles ! whatever ..
In hindsight, I agree. It won't be a problem in our ownership. But it makes for more content? 😂
too many ads bro.
UA-cam did it automatically🤷🏼♂️ I guess they want to make that money 😬
vid is too dark
This is the first I've heard of this problem
Music annoying
I've definitely learned more and more about editing as our video series goes on. Thanks for your feedback
I am not beautiful. 😊
Don’t sell yourself short, you sure are!😊
@Matt & Katie haha thanks mate. I wad just kidding. I won't say I know I am cause that is being stuck up. I'll aim for somewhere in the middle and say I'm decent looking 👌
@@arkhamkillzone hehe, perfect