Honda VF1000 buggy build part 16
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- Опубліковано 18 сер 2024
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Rogue Fabrication tubing notcher:
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electric power steering kit
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Go power sports parts I used in this video:
steering wheel
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steering knuckle
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go kart steering kit
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5 point seat belt
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radiator fan
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brake lines
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master cylinder
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3 point seat belt
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Auxbeam lights I used:
15W work lights
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18W head lights
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4ft whip light
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Other parts I used in this video:
King Shocks 2.0 Emulsion Coil-Overs in 16" Travel with Springs PR2016-CONRS PAIR
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King Shock Coil-Overs 2.0 Emulsion in 14" Travel with Springs PR2014-CONRS PAIR
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JEGS 70250 Pro High Back II Race Seat
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JEGS 70280 Pro High Back II Vinyl Seat Cover
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Barnes 4WD B4WK0116 - Panhard Bar Rod End Heim Joint Kit 3/4 x 3/4-16 CHROMOLY HMS 3/4-5/8
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Barnes 4WD B4WK0062 - Panhard Bar Kit 3/4 x 3/4-16 Econ Heim Joint Bungs for 1" ID Tube
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CV axles
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s10 hubs
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sprocket
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Music by Epidemic Sound (www.epidemicsou...) - Розваги
Respect for your embracing the error regarding having the radiator ass backwards. It's good to see somebody with humility and honesty
Dude!!!!!! I know this is small but dude you made your own rubber bushings 😂😂😂 I found that cool asf! Your fabrication skills are amazing I aspire to be a great as you!
a honda VFR1000 uses a fuel pump to prevent too little fuel from entering the carburetors to prevent air bubbles from entering the fuel system due to too much heat from the engine , and why do you hang your radiator so low that it hangs full behind your fuel tank, making the tank unnecessarily hot , I also think it's a great machine that you've built ,,, your engine sounds like if your carburetors are not properly synchronized and that the float level is not properly adjusted, but that can also be due to the fact that there is too little fuel running to the carburetor without a fuel pump
Jan C vd Weide Yes, clearly fuel delivery issues, notice the lean backfire?
@@DirtGearTv True, I have been saying this for a while now. Let's hope he reads this and listen
Imperfect Videos I wouldn’t count on it 😂
@@DirtGearTv yeah doubt it too.
@Youll Never Know it really isn't. Which is why the bike this engine came from has a fuel pump.
OK - Food for thought - youre adding things like Huge Lightbars, Double GIANT - Car sized cooling fan motors, now Electric Power steering.......... If you USE more power than the tiny Bike alternator is able to keep up with you'll run the battery down when riding, these things are normally balanced, and a bike has NONE of these gargantuan power draws you've added!!! at the very least you might be burning up regulators and Stator coils which are terrible expensive - you may want to add a belt driven alternator off a small car or run it off the chain drive or something to help the tiny Motorcycle charging system out........
As far as Radiator, I think it's just right given that you wont be getting the airflow the bike used to get-
As far as Power output and engine not being able to handle it, I think with your gearing that motor should be fine!
With the fact that you have a brand new everything yet still got clogged up carbs after the first run, I'd check your gas can you filled it with, for contamination - also is the fuel tank rusting already, perhaps treat it and coat the inside with Por-15 or Casewells tank liner/sealer kit. and get a better fuel filter, should not have clogged carbs after just one ride!!!!!!
If you go back a few videos he treated the fuel tank with a liquid fuel tank treatment, idk what its called but maybe he didn't clean the carbs until now.
this is a Water/air cooling motorcycle engine, it needs air flow to keep low temperature, try a fan blowing cool air to the engine.
I just started watching this series from the beginning two days ago - I've binge watched the entire thing.
It's so cool to watch you build this - awesome job! Can't wait to see the finished product.
Why not put the gas tank in front of the radiator? Rigth behind the seats. Then you wont have the hot air heating the fuel tank.
True, but then the radiator would have a harder time getting air.
Sounds like fuel delivery or carb problem. With low gearing gearbox can take the extra load. Move the tank away from the gearbox and reroute fuel lines away from the top of the engine. Great build and awesome suspension, soaks up bumps so smooth!
Motorcycle engines are designed to be run at a higher rpm and will cause overheating at lower rpm if the water pump is spinning too slow. BTW awesome build!
I put that out last video
Yup
Rip it Good dumbest thing I read today, I’d explain why you’re wrong but what good would that do.
@@morehp1 actually he is right water pumps in engines run via centrifugal force the vanes in street bikes are designed to work most efficiently within their powerband and dropping below the powerband for example at idle most street bikes will actually have problems with overheating/heatsoaking (especially the carbureted ones) did you know there is a reason for there being higher volume water pump kits being on the market for alot of streetbikes it was a common problem across the design boards (also part of the reason most street bike manufacturers used to state in their manual to NOT idle the bike stationarily for extended periods of time (more than 15 min)
D L so you think manufacturers are building street bikes made to be driven in every day traffic, that can’t set in stopped traffic or at road work, without over heating without Revving the engine for extra water circulation? As someone who has owned street bikes all my life and daily commutes on one in summer in 97 degree weather this is hilarious. O and in the 30 years of being a Honda tech revving the engine for more circulation has never been the fix for an overheating issue lol sure you can bring down the temp a few degrees but it’s not fixing shit. It may very well not be flowing enough water at Idle but revving the engine isn’t the solution, new water pump, maybe the fix, but he has more variables here, then what this bike engine would see factory water pump is having to perform lift to even get it up to the radiator something the factory design didn’t have, new thermostat be a good idea, and to check for vacuum leaks under carbs, as running lean will over heat one quick, air in the system, this would be a easy to figure out, if was working on it, over heating is very basic diagnosing.
pump is usually mounted on the cool side , same with radiator, the theory of thermo-dynamics is the hot water enters at top of radiator, and the cool water is pulled from the bottom of the radiator. Thumbs up for sharing!
That crome or silver paint doesn’t stay shiny very long. Looks really good at first. But it fades quickly. A nice metallic silver works way better. Look forward to your videos every week. Hope it holds together. Last week was Awesome.
It scratches really easy to
The metallic silver wheel paint works well, and looks nice, and has a clear coat, that resist chemicals, and UV, and a decent amount of heat, I have used it on engines, and it looked good for years!!
Coming together nicely. I like you don't edit out your mistakes.. "We learn from experiance and a good deal of that comes from our mistakes".
Working it out as you go along. Love it. Don't over justify yourself, us normal mistake makers have your back!
As long as you have a thermostat on the engine that works then the radiator could be the size of the moon and it wouldnt matter bro...
Take a stride or Step aside what are you trying to say?
@morehp1 he said what he meant. The radiator isn't likely the problem. The thermostat is.
MartinStangMan but in he’s statement he is saying if you have a working thermostat, not that if you have a bad thermostat. Maybe he meant to say, if you have a bad thermostat the radiator could be the size of the moon it wouldn’t make a difference. But the way he’s statement is worded it does not make any since.
morehp1 he’s saying that with the right thermostat it the radiator can’t cool it too much cause it’ll keep warm cause it’ll close if it’s too cold
If the thermostat was working it would not pump water through the radiator as long as the engine has not reached its working temperature. So I suppose something is wrong with the thermostat.
I would address the chain issue. I think it will come off again. With the aggressive backward bend, I think there is substantial heat generation and stretch. This might be moot. There may be too many clearance issues with this but I would adapt a shaft onto the output from the trans and add more sprockets. Then add more driven sprockets as well. More chain, more strength, and less need for the aggressive bend for tooth engagement. I understand the chain routing may be for clearance issues. I could not tell from the vid. Nice work.
1) temp gauge, 2) mount the radiator upfront, 3) inline fuel filter , 4) tune/sync the carbs and 5) aux water pump.
I think that will make it better.
Definitely needs the aux water pump
He doesn't need a auxiliary water pump ffs guys. The doubled size he now has will be perfect considering he'll be mostly traveling half the speed of the original motorcycle. A working thermostat is also obviously key.
He may not need the auxiliary water pump but he should install a properly functioning thermostat and change from the stock water pump to a high flow version if it's still available for that engine, he also should add an oil cooler(could be mounted onto the radiator and share the fans) or a fan blowing directly on the engine to compensate for the lost air cooling that engine would've originally had while moving
A random 12v water pump is way cheaper than a honda genuine part.
@@dodgeme1986truck those water pumps were never supplied for the vfr
Good call going to a larger radiator. Although your gas boiling wasn’t due to engine overheat... Ever notice how autos and hot rods use insulated fuel lines? You should absolutely insulate your lines more, but also raise them off the top of the engine, this will protect you from vapor lock, which is probably what was causing fuel delivery issues. Great job.
DirtGearTv thanks man, I will try that. I love your buggy btw
rather B welding Thanks, I can’t wait to get it running with the new engine!
Not sure if others have mentioned it but having the radiator high up increases the head of pressure that the water pump need to overcome to circulate the coolant. If the pump is old it may be to weak to circulate the coolant at the flow rate recommended and potentially cause overheating. Just a thought.
The exhaust is right under the fuel tank hence the air bubbles in the fuel
Its not nearly close enough for it to make all the fuel in the tank boiling
Your not an idiot sometimes learning from mistakes is the best way to learn keep up the good work
Don’t be too hard on yourself, you’re young and learning. If you open up the breathing of the engine, (intake/exhaust) you will need to compensate with more fuel and that means all the way across the rpm range, including idle. If it was an EFI , I’d say get an aftermarket fuel tuner such as Bazzaz or Power Commander with “auto tune” module. Since your is carb, I think it’s time for you to find a dyno tuner. Approximately 13 parts air to 1 part fuel. If the cooling leak is from the casting and not just the hose attachment, it’s not going to be good, but I think you would see white smoke emitting from the exhaust. Love the electric assist. Yamaha snowmobiles tried it a few years ago and it’s now on many off road toys. Don’t give up on that engine just yet, but if that case/cylinder is cracked, you might need to find another or if possible it could be mig or tig welded? Hang in there young guy, you’ll get it.
Revving the engine at higher rpm will actually help keep the engine cooler because there will be more fuel going into the engine which will help cool it down. I do agree that the other radiator was a little on the small side. Anyway great video I love how the buggy has turned out and I really want to build my own now
the leak just needs pipe removed and a new 0 ring added from the loks of things you could reroute the cooling pipes to the right hand side of the engine
Check your timing gears, sparkplugs if color yellow spark throw them out get new ones. Check resistance in coils also if to lean it will not spark on time. Recheck valves, with gages. Check oil see if no coolant in it. A mall leak can lead to a bigger issue. I would recommend changing to a dual carberator setup.
Ok! You have to hear this! I am so proud of you two....Very Proud! I have been waiting with "Bait on My Breath*" for you to get toward the final niceties. !) You MUST check the BACKPRESSURE in the exhaust pipes! You could gain upwards to 5 -10 HP! 2) If "Blenzall" is still making 4 cycle NITRO additive... USE IT! more HP. and internal lubrication! 3) Change your tires to "Carlisle Racing Slicks" Wide in the Back, narrow in the front. Beef up the diameter just a little bit! STAY OUT of the DIRT for a while!!!!! Use ram-stacks with a light but strong foam filter. MORE HP. 4) Your gearing may be a little touchy, but don't despair! Your final solution will be like launching a rocket! When you want to play in the dirt, Change the tires that you will have mounted and balanced, (Preferably Knobbies on the rear, and beefy tread winter tread tires on the front. Keep them about the same size. 5) AFFIX a nice digital dashboard on the machine. Knowing your RPM's, Speed, Engine Temp, and Oil temp is critical!!! The rest is a little nit-picking! Color, with very high-end primer!!! Then Clear Coat. You guys have been perfect with the fuel!! Congrats! 6) I almost forgot! Add a couple of small fire extinguishers, out of the way for comfort, but handy to reach!!! 7) Take the fiber straps off the fuel tank, and replace them with stainless steel straps with folding latches. Safety first fellows! If there is a fire, two flips of the latches and the tank is free!! 8) Make it pretty, and continue to make me proud. BTW! If you do a little engine improvement, (bore it out, new pistons, you know; Little things, then the fuel injectors.... You will easily exceed 150 MPH! Where there is a will there is a WAY!!! Good luck, and have a HELL of a lot of FUN!!! bob myers rfmyers1@comcast.net 'MAL AD OSTEO' !
A watercooled engine temp is controlled by the thermostat. It closes to allow the coolant to warm up and the thermostat opens to cool it down. With motorcycle powered buggies, a civic radiator is about what most use. The engine is moving something 4 or more times the weight of the bike it was on, it needs to be cooled better. As long as the thermostat works properly it wont over heat.
A single fan should suffice. I'd probably have it on a thermal switch to turn on when it needs to and have a toggle switch to override it if need be. You're probably taxing the charging coil and battery with the dual fans and electric rack. Hopefully there's enough reserves in the battery but no idea.
I think a car engine and trans is the way to go. Small 3 or 4 cylinder from an economy car would be much better equipped to handle the weight and would still get that buggy moving fast.
A little 3 cylinder Geo engine with an automatic would probably work, especially a fuel injected one. Also, a car engine will have a proper alternator for all the electrical stuff he has on that buggy.
@@spazzattack1188 geo metro drivetrain was my exact though.
You have to see the Stunt Freaks Team, cross cart 750. This is what your machine is for. And your design is more visually pleasing. They're running semi slicks on compact dirt and tarmac!!
hi i would put on clamps for the hoses on that radiator don't short cut with hot water pressure if it gets you gonna hurt up to you very nice ride watched all vids. going to be very nice paint scheme also look forward to next project
I love the fact you messed up with the flow and left it in.. love that! Thank !you
Nice job! I would hit it with a couple spray cans of 2k clear after the silver and blue to really make it look good and last longer. I watched the whole thing so far. Pretty cool.
always fascinating
fans will be pulling the engine's hot air through the radiator. How about a sheet metal baffle a between the engine and radiator so the radiator gets ambient air? easier said that done
Also, go full Porsche and add an oil radiator up front?
great work, "free hand"
You obviously have a great seat-of-the-pants feel for this stuff, but sometimes a little tech will help, like a coolant temperature meter.
Was going to comment same about the fans pulling preheated air directly from the block.
I don´t think it will be an issue as long as his not standing still. As soon as he moves the fans will not pull as much of that heated air. But yes, an oil cooler might be a good idea.
All it takes is ONE time overheating to blow a headgasket sometimes. Best of luck
You sir are a master thank you for sharing the proces
HOLY CRAP THIS THING SPITS FLAME
THAT’S SICK
yes that buggy did handle the trail well from what i saw on that video hell you turned out ok rather be welding you should be able to land a hell of a good position in designing and interfering just keep doing what you have been i knew i was right about you and you have already done more than i expected to see you are going places great work
A fantastic cart - I'm glad you're investing the time in making it better for yourself.
Kinda nice to see someone include your mistakes. That's something I think we all have done. Nice work, and love the machine shop setup. Only if I had one. So jealous..
maybe the radiator is not that small but this engine was initially designed to run fast when revving at high RPM but now when it revs high it might be climbing and crawling so there is not much air hitting the radiator and there is nothing wrong there. Fitting a bigger radiator seems the right thing, I'm glad we had the same thoughts.
If metal is cleared, it will still rust, the metallic silver wheel paint, looks like polished aluminum, with the clear it looks really good!
With the over sized radiator now your ready for a bigger motor and turbo! Something to twist larger wheels
If you can make a fan shroud to mount the fans on the radiator, those zip ties you used can cut into the aluminum of the radiator over time from vibration and being an off road cart it can happen sooner rather than later. Other than that this is a great build.
It looks cool. Looks like you got about 40in. Of shock for what 8in. of suspension.
Good job! I believe the gas tank will get pretty warm where is at. We'll see.
You might want to look at the 90 degree elbow in the radiator hose. Being down low will make it almost impossible to get all of the air out of the cooling system. Causing the engine to overheat. Air bubbles in the system are a quick death to any engine.
It’s still super Awesome!!!!!! Hopefully it’s not a head gasket if so it’s easy atleast. But I would run some sea foam through the combustion chamber. It cleans amazingly!!!
First thing I would add is a heel stop to keep your feet in place. Helps you control braking and throttle while off-road.
How about an engine from a car? The 16 valve 2.0 from a Neon, you could also use the the 5 speed gear box. If you get one from an ACR Neon, that would be cool....
Frank The CADD Monkey : That would be nice. And about a 100 horse upgrade!
K24 it from PFI Speed ,, Brent will hook ya up ..... :)
@@rickybobbyinc293 Yeah, I had an ACR and didn't even know it until it was scrapped..
It was a beast!
Even a honda D series would be an awesome upgrade. Short block, cheap, easy to find, reliable and light weight.
Good job, man!
And be careful reading comments from all of us "youtube engineers"....
It's real easy to tell someone else what they're doing wrong from behind a keyboard.
That being said.... Get a decent mercury-based carb synchronizer. Motion-Pro makes a good one.
Trying to tune a 4cyl bike motor without one is nearly impossible.
There's other types but, they aren't as accurate.
Once you get all the little problems worked out with that motor you should be fine.
It makes over 100hp.... And the bike it came out of wasn't a light-weight.
Yes, the buggy is a bit of a porker but, if your gearing is right you'll be fine.
Those motors are built stronger than most people think.
I think you got it fixed up pretty nice now......... Go drive it hard, that motor is fine.... With the low gearing you have it's not being strained at all.
Awesome, AWESOME job on that radiator mounting. Much better placement too.
Keep at it! I know you'll figure it out and get it dialed in. I'm so impressed with what you have accomplished so far!
You added an aftermarket aircleaner and exhaust which means that there is much more air flow through the engine. This extra air is causing the engine to run very lean, and needs to be corrected by allowing more fuel into the engine as well. When you run an engine teally lean, it will cause it to run MUCH hotter as well. You should try drilling out the jets to allow more fuel. This is likely causing the hesitation issue as well as the flame we saw shoot out of the exhaust. I had a similar problem on my bike when i put aftermarket an aircleaner and exhaust on it and the bike ran very hot and stuttered when accelerating. The same thing happened on my car when I forgot to plug a vacuum port. It ran very hot and melted the sound deadening material that i had on the floor.
Another thing: The engine was originally designed to have the radiator sitting at the same height as it. The higher you raise the radiator, the more pressure there is required to move the coolant through it. If the water pump on this engine works the same as a car, then the pump doesnt really create any pressure, it just kind of slaps the water in the direction it needs to go. Something to consider might be to add an electric water pump to make sure that you have enough circulation.
Change to a larger diameter steering wheel.
Put a rubber tube from the little pipe under the rad filler cap to an overflow catch bottle.
You are doing great so far.
I love the VFR! But you need to bleed your coolant lines properly, definitely wouldn't have helped the overheating issues
Gasoline boils anywhere between 100-400*f so it really won’t take a whole lot of heat. That gold dei tape worked great for me, cover fuel lines, bowl, really anything you can 👍
Great choice on the paint colors!
Put a Filter in your fuelsystem as well... and please protect your wirering harnes.... with Black sleeve or just with the elektrical tape to be Safe.... but over all i Think IT is very cool build... i would place the fueltank away from the Engine and use a fuelpump to get enough fuel in the engine.... Kind regards from germany....
I used the 2x spray paint from home depot on my drift trike built...its awesome paint with primer in it👍
A tip; use a shroud for your coolingfans .
Those rips gonna hurt ure radiator because of the heat and vibritions. In a year time you gonna notice it iff u leave it like this..
Look up for a aftermarket 3core civic ratiator , that should show u what i mean.
Your new radiator location is pulling heated air off of the motor to try to cool the coolant. Radiators need fresh air. Also your radiator is discharging hot air onto your fuel tank. Fuel should be kept cool.
Cooling it down too much is very much a thing with engines, thus the reason thermostats are incorporated into pretty much every water cooled engine. The engine should have come with one factory. With a thermostat in place as designed, it will open when the engine is warmed up and restrict the flow to the engine to keep it at the "just right temp". Having a radiator that is to big will make the thermostat work over time by having to constantly close completely then open up and, in theroy, could cause thermal shock to some engine parts but I always like to have too much radiator rather than too little.
Probly add some heat reducing or reflecting mesh/ tape on the underside of the fuel tank. DO NOT DRIVE WHILST COOLANT IS LEAKING!!!! Big no no... that either a leaking seal or gasket and will cause big problems down the road. Personally I think your engine is ok for this buggy but because it looks so badass it needs a badass powertrain. Perhaps the Yamaha YZF-R1 from 2004 - present... over 180hp that’s insane
As long as your fuel tank is set higher than the carbs and you have large enough fuel lines you do not need a fuel pump. And, it will add another electrical load to the system and another point of failure. Could run as large as 1/2" fuel lines and reduce them down at the carbs.
Oh yeah... I'm gonna start a build of my own soon. Maybe I'll film it so everyone can tell ME how I'm doing it wrong too!!!
Will be interesting to see how thick my skin is.
Awesome buddy... Very Awesome.... I can't even think how you do it...
New spark plugs a must.....then sync carbs
Jutting the carbs bigger could help it run better and cooler the carbs are always setup lean from the factory bigger jets will help. Plus led lights to help with electric draw from the battery too much power drain on the battery can mess with the motorcycle charging system witch can mess up the spark..
Maybe u can add a scoop in front of the rad above the seats if it still gets too hot . And I would move the tank so the rad doesn't blow all the hot air into the fuel making it unnecessary hot
That will keep it cool on slow trails. Good job Hymen. Your great. Thank you.
those bars would look sick in like a grave digger green with the blue of the shocks as accents
You’re doing great! The machines very nice.
Try syncing the carburetors to get rid of the hesitation. You will need a vacuum sync tool.
That thing was awesome offroading
This build is great but your next one will be your best yet!
small suggestion, order the manual on your engine, and spend a couple days reading all the procedures, as well as troubleshooting procedures. I think your mind will be at ease once you digest the info to all the mind boggling what if's wondering through there at warp speed..
Patience Grasshopper, haste makes waste. Nice ride
Do a test piece with that silver if you are going to clear coat over it. I have cleared over that silver before and it turned it a darker more grey color. Hope this helps.
Fill that radiator wile straight up. Air in the system creates heat pockets and could overheat the engine.
Oil your air filter to help trap dirt it will help alot
Great color choices. It will compliment the shocks. Good luck with the engine!
GSXR 1000 MOTOR IF YOU GOTTA DO IT AGAIN
Maybe you have an Air-Fuel ratio problem, I don't know how it works on motorcycle engines, but on small 2 stroke trimmers that "stuck" acceleration means that you have a lean mixture.
same
I honestly believe your not straining that engine...1, your not running it hard at all ( not an insult )... 2, its geared so low that even with the weight of the buggy, clutch release is smooth and buggy doesn't lug bad.....3, when that engine is right , it will take tons of abuse for tons of miles.....get fuel delivery right and keep it moving, temps should stay down
I'm not much of a mechanic, but refresh my memory. Doesn't running lean increase engine temperature?
It does
You can go for the water pump maybe it's not functioning properly that's what engine is getting hot???
Btw the electric steering work is perfect for this big machine.
Just a thought. Ditch the motorcycle engine and do a front wheel drive car motor? Reverse and enough power to get into plenty of trouble. Like a d series honda motor would be perfect for something that size
I like the idea for the color but my advice is dont put a clear coat over the silver paint it will turn it gray
i commented on the other video and thought the electric power steering would be a good idea it will help with dampening the the steering and make it easier to steer
Great work ,super fun of your creative work👌
This thing is awesome wish I had one!Paint color you picked is gonna be sweet.
put the stock airbox lid and filter back on the carbs with out it your running lean and hot causing idle issues and running issues motor cycle engines are tempermental without the proper airbox of jetting of the carbs to compensate for its removal
I like the colors you picked that will look good
Re-install the small radiator up front for extra cooling....maybe? Better than sitting on the shelf.
I’d love to see a body kit and a all weather kit for the body with a roof and windscreen
Maybe a flow meter in the radiator line to make sure coolant is flowing too? Great video keep up the good work
11:00 clear coolant tubes would be cool
You should make one of your two speed gear sets so it can have a high and low setting, cause right now you have to change the sprocket, if you had a high and low you could switch it on the fly!
I thought your rad was mounted too high for the water pump to push uphill, but after not being a jerk and watching the rest of the video, I see you've hopefully fixed it. Hopefully you can keep it cool and not boil the fuel out of your carbs. If it keeps boiling off the fuel it'll keep gumming up the idle jets in the carbs and you'll have to keep cleaning them every time you run it.
We, people learn from our mistakes that's what it is. In the end, your buggy will be perfect the moment you decide to paint it. Perhaps, you can put the smaller radiator back now that you found the problem. It's better to look at in a smaller radiator. The little smoking probably was due to the spilled coolant being heated.
Leak looked like a bad head gasket!
The 2 cylinders running leaner due to plugged low speed would definitely contribute to the overheating. Good idea to upsize the radiator though and it definitely looks "cooler"
Great project, the thing I notice with many of your projects is when there are engine problems it’s a real hassle for you.
Have you thought about collaborating with another UA-cam channel that does mechanical repairs, I think it would make these projects run much smoother and let you concentrate on what you do really well.
Power steering the two big cables go to the battery is the small black wire the ignition thats not wrapped goes to the negative or ground right