REBEL1100: Suspension Tuning Part 2 - Adjusting rear shock preload
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- Опубліковано 1 сер 2024
- Today is April 13, 2021, and I'm adjusting my Rebel 1100's rear suspension today to prevent bottoming out over minor road bumps. Skip to the end of the description for clickable time indexes.
The Honda owner's manual for the Rebel 1100 ( cdn.powersports.honda.com/doc... ) doesn't specify how many clicks are available in the rear shocks or turns in the front fork preload adjusters. I cranked up my rear shocks as high as 20 clicks and stopped there. The factory position of #3 isn't sufficient for my riding weight of 170 pounds (77 kg), so I tested the suspension stroke today using plastic zip ties to find a good setting for me.
The ride test in this video was using setting #6 on the rear shocks and the factory setting on the front forks. I have since adjusted the rear shocks up to #8 and then back down to #7, and that seems to work well for me. I have also increased the front fork preload by 3/4 turn (clockwise) to balance the forks with the rear shocks. The resulting ride is slightly firmer than the factory settings, but the rear shocks don't bottom out as frequently. The sudden jolt from bottoming out the rear shocks at 70+ MPH on Houston's freeways wasn't a safe riding condition.
!! WARNING !! The black anodizing on the rear shock collars scratches off very easily. I recommend using a thick plastic bag or some other padding between the spanner wrench and the collar itself. I scarred up my collars a lot during this process... I can't imagine how much worse it would have been without the plastic bag as a buffer. 😉👍
Time indexes:
0:00 Demonstrating the results of the first zip tie test... they are buried into the bump stops!
1:12 Using the factory tool kit to adjust the preload, starting at zero to verify settings
5:00 Counting the max number of clicks from #5 up to 20! Factory setting is #3?!
8:31 I chickened out at #20, resetting to zero and then back to #6
11:50 Finally back to #6, resetting my zip ties
13:21 Starting the test ride and the first bump only used ~50%!
18:21 I should have done this the second day I had the bike!
22:38 Hopes that Honda will put this motor in a naked sporty chassis (CB1100 Twin? 👏)
26:21 Results show full compression again, but not buried into the bump stops
--
QM
quasimotard@gmail.com
#rebel1100 #cmx1100 #hondarebel
2021 Honda Rebel 1100 DCT
Honda Rebel 1100
Honda Rebel 1100 rear shocks
Honda Rebel suspension adjustment - Авто та транспорт
I got a copy of the service manual and it states the adjustable range is 18 clicks with the first click being zero so you must have been at the limit when you counted 20. Thanks for the video.
Thanks for the info, Wayne! That's good to know. It's odd that Honda stated not to exceed the maximum setting while also not specifying what the maximum is in the owner's manual. I ordered my factory service manual, but haven't received it yet. Cheers! 👍 --QM
Rebel gang bb I had to get the service manual too because there is nothing online
Thanks for doing the video! I just got my rear suspension tuned today, same bike. With 200 lbs., I took it to the 8th position as well and it already feels much better than before. Thanks again!
Thanks for the sweet informative video. I'm going to have to do this when I get home!
Most informative video, QM. Thanks. You seem to have to travel an awful long way in your domestic landscape to find a bump. Here in France I have to negotiate three gendarme couchés (sleeping policemen) just to get out of my village. Being new to the Rebel 1100, I hadn't realised that the rear shocks were bottoming out so easily. At a not so svelte 105kg I'm going for 10 clicks.
Just a tip for using that spanner. It's best to use a chamois or soft cloth and with care you won't mark the shocks at all. I have the same bike and have adjusted many times. Great videos though, thanks!
Thank you for all your efforts!
I will be doing this tomorrow. Thanks for blazing the trail here! I read somewhere else to cover the ends of the spanner wrench with duct tape or similar to protect the paint. I have the same bike except in red and love it. Your videos are a big help along my journey. Keep it up! You have a new subscriber!
I am 200LBS and adjusted my preload to a 10. Using the excellent zip tie test I took the bike out for a little spin on normal, paved roads. I did not hit any potholes or speed bumps and the zip tie ended up about 1CM from the bump stop. I might want to go up to an 11 or 12 if I go on bumpier roads or put on the saddle bags but I’m close. I certainly don’t want anything less than a 10. I purchased the spanner wrench from my local Cycle Gear shop. It’s a little big but it did the job. I hope this helps others who might want to get a close setting right from the start.
@@tangysquid Thanks for the feedback, and I'm glad you found a good setting on your Rebel! In my follow-up video ( ua-cam.com/video/-3sVtI69izE/v-deo.html ), I cranked up the rear preload 20 clicks just to see where it stopped (Honda omitted that fun fact from the owner's manual). I ended up setting my rear shocks at #7, and I bumped up the front preload about 1/2 turn clockwise to balance it out. So far, that has worked well for my 170-pound riding weight. I'm still surprised that Honda only set these bikes at #3 out of 20! Aren't North American (esp. USA) owners considered to be "fat" and heavy compared to the typical Asian markets? C'mon, Honda... our hefty buns need more preload! 🤣👍 --QM
Thanks for the feedback, Michael! I've used the sandwich bag trick for decades on fancy anodized fasteners (e.g., fuel line AN fittings & other racing bits), but I've never needed to use it for shock collars. The Rebel 1100 is the first bike that I've owned with black anodized coatings on the suspension bits. I'm searching for some Delrin or Teflon-coated spanners now... hopefully something that I can keep under the seat for adjustments on the road (e.g., luggage or passenger preload adjustment). Cheers! 👍 --QM
Helpful mine came in today hopefully have it on Monday
Good video!!! Learning so much !!
Thanks, George! I'm glad you enjoyed it, and I hope the videos are useful. Cheers! 👍 --QM
I'm gonna wait for the standard.
18 clicks are adjustable range.
The book says full-soft "0" position.
I'm a heavy guy and I adjusted mine up one click. I'm going to use the flex-tie method and see where mine goes.
I really like your vids, (and life of Birch's).
I need higher handlebars and Burly Brands said they are coming out with extended cables to accommodate higher bars sometime around November. (Just for FYI)
Thanks for the feedback, Eric! That's great info on the rear shocks! Honda really should have included that info in the owner's manual because that's a normal operational adjustment for any (every) rider.
I'm looking into bar risers or possibly different bars for my Rebel to give me a little more rearward reach. I found these on Webike Japan, and they specify that they work with the OEM cables: japan.webike.net/products/24732617.html . The change is listed as +50mm (2") rearward and +15mm (0.6") taller. That's almost exactly what I need for a more comfortable ride with my short arms. Cheers! 😉👍 --QM
I agree with the naked standard chassi.
I love it when you say, "ask me how I know.". Lmfao
It's like those old State Farm insurance commercials: "We know a thing or two, because we've seen a thing or two!" In my case, it's more like: "... because I've broken a thing or two!" 🤣👍 --QM
I've had my 2023 1100 for about a month and it happened twice...the first time it slammed me i thought damn it's too stiff but seeing it's adjusted almost to the top and after thinking about when it happened a second time i figured it bottomed out so i tightened it two clicks which made a difference I'll probably go one more click & see
Yep, the Rebel's rear shocks are severely under-damped, so we need to fight that with spring preload to prevent bottoming-out. The factory setting of 3 clicks (out of 18) is way too soft for most American riders. I set the rear preload at 8 clicks, and that seems to work well for my ~170 pound riding weight. Cheers! 😉👍 --QM
The engineers are watching this sweating on his 20th click
🤣👍 Them and me both! I was really hoping that something didn't snap or come unseated on that first crank-up! The official service manual states that there are only 18 adjustment clicks on the rear shocks. Maybe I was spinning on the 19-20 clicks... dunno? Other owners have mentioned that they were able to do 18-20 and then the adjuster stopped (wouldn't rotate any further). The adjustment range should definitely be listed in the owner's manual because that is a normal (and obviously necessary) procedure for normal operation of this bike. Cheers! 👍 --QM
@@QuasiMotard I'm hoping so. I'm sitting 240lbs with gear on. This would be a killer flaw on such a good bike. Wild west moto or V1 moto? Who's got better people?
Also added 2 full turns of more preload on front. 215lbs
Try adding some heat shrink tubing to the hook of the spanner. That might help with the marring.
I actually might try that, or plasti-dip.
Thanks!
How can I be getting opposite results from others? I weigh 190 lb and initially tightened a few clicks from the factory setting only to feel a much harsher ride. I clicked back all the way to the minimal setting and noticed improvement. The zip tie test followed - just initial sitting on the bike moved the ties about 1/2 way down the rods. Then from that spot, test riding for a few miles over some discernable bumps and 'washboard' type bumps on asphalt only brought the zip ties to about 1/4" from the bottom. It finally bottomed out over some very sharp bumps. Your thoughts?
I’m trying to think of a better way other than using a microfiber cloth to not damage the aluminum spring perch with the spanner. Maybe plasti-dip the ends of the wrench? They really need to make these things out of anodized aluminum or hard plastic.
The smart person puts 3 or 4 zip ties on the springs, sits on the bike to preload the springs, and cinches the zip ties on the springs tighter so the spring is already compressed. And THEN they adjust the preload without the spanner wrench. Then they cut the zip ties off. Set the adjuster at 50% in the middle of it's adjustment and go from there, adding or subtracting. The zip tie on the oil damper rod should compress about 25 to 30% of it's travel stroke with you sitting on the bike with all your riding gear on. You'll go through a lot of zip ties doing it this way, but in the end, it will be set right, for your weight.
Whats up QM!
I just did the same adjustment test on my shocks and i think im looking into something heavier duty. For reference, im 5'8, 220lb, im on the 15th click from zero and my ziptie still hits about 3/4 the way down on medium highway bumps. BURLY maybe?
The Showa shocks on the Rebel just don't have enough compression damping, so we're fighting that with spring preload. I will probably replace my rear shocks later this year with a set of Öhlins or Burly shocks that are damped better (fully-adjustable if possible).
When you are doing the zip-tie tests, remember that you are looking for full-compression over "normal" road surfaces. You want to get the full stroke out of the suspension so you aren't making the ride overly harsh. It's not uncommon for the shocks to bottom-out, but that shouldn't be the norm... it should only happen under extreme conditions (e.g., potholes, large dips at high speed, railroad tracks, etc). Higher quality shocks that have adjustable damping will certainly be our cure. Cheers! 👍 --QM
Just found your video now. I too live on the West side of Houston, and the streets buck me up out of the seats on every ride. I'll definitely adjust per your reccos as I'm also about your same size, but 10 pounds lighter. Question. What type of pegs do you use, my right foot frequently slips off. Thanks for the info.
Howdy, neighbor, and congrats on your Rebel 1100! I've had good luck with my Rebel set at #8-9 on the rear shocks and about 3/4 turn (clockwise) added front preload. The ride firmed up a bit, but it isn't overly harsh. I don't experience the violent bottoming-out over highway ripples and pavement seams like I did with the factory settings. 😉👍 --QM
Nice video. Thanks. Did you have to get a power commander for the new exhaust? Any changes in power? Thanks
Thanks for the feedback! I haven't noticed any difference in power, so it doesn't seem to be running lean. I'm still waiting for DynoJet or other tuners to release their products for the Rebel 1100. When those are available, I'll purchase one and rent some dyno time to tune the bike properly. Otherwise, I'll get an auto-tune kit with a wideband O2 sensor and let it tune itself while I ride. Cheers! 😉👍 --QM
Do you have any recommendations for better shocks? I am a heavy rider 220 and don’t feel too confident with the stocks/
I haven't upgraded my Rebel's rear shocks yet, so I don't have any educated opinions. I have used Öhlins ( www.ohlinsusa.com/ ) on previous bikes, and I've heard very good reviews of Burly Brand ( www.burlybrand.com/category/1/suspension ). My preference would be the Öhlins S36 Blackline shocks for the rear ( similar to these: www.ohlinsusa.com/suspension-products/harley-s36-blackline-twin-shocks ), and the NIX-22/NIX-30 fork cartridges for the front ( www.ohlinsusa.com/suspension-products/street-nix-22-cartridge-kit ). That front and rear set will be quite expensive, but I think they would completely transform the bike's handling. Cheers! 👍 --QM
Great video, question is the the rear suspension set at position 3, so if i wanted to go 8th position i would only have to go 5 more clicks. Should i also adjust the front suspension, what is the factory setting. 200lbs driver
Thanks for the feedback! I would recommend increasing the front and rear spring preload at the same time. The rear shocks are originally set at #3, but you can always back it down to 0 and work upward to verify that you're on the same setting for both sides.
The front preload is originally set at 3/8" (9mm). I would recommend increasing the front preload about 3/4 turn clockwise and first, and then work in 1/2 turn increments up or down to test the front fork compliance. You can use the zip tie test as shown in this video or just go by feel to make it comfortable for your riding chores. Cheers! 😉👍 --QM
It goes to 20 clicks then stops. Will not go any farther. I weight 215lbs and it still bottoms out at 30mph on some bumps. Will need to buy a new spring or new shocks,
Ok, thanks again for the content. I noticed a Ram ball on the where the left mirror was. I've been looking for just such a mount and came up with nuthin! Where does a person find this and is it stable for phone/GPS? Thanks in advance.
Those RAM balls are here: amzn.to/3uz7640. I screwed those into my original mirror mounts because I'm using bar-ends mirrors (CRG Hindsight LS: ua-cam.com/video/U7Bggy5diaM/v-deo.html ).
If you're still using the factory mirrors and need a RAM mount, then try these under the mirror stems: RAM Mounts RAM-B-272U 9mm Angled Bolt Head Adapter Ball Base with B Size 1" Ball www.amazon.com/dp/B0012TRIY4
I have these mounts on most of my motorcycles, and they are very useful and stable. The flexibility of mounting a phone, GPS, GoPro, or whatever just can't be beat! 😉👍 --QM
@@QuasiMotard Thanks a bunch!
I like the Givi hard bags and the Honda Batwing. Lord knows, this is a solo bike.
It should be your sign when the bike is sold with only 1 seat that it's a solo bike
Does anyone know how many clicks per rider weight? What about the setting to ride with a passenger? Thanks for the video ✌️😎
Honda doesn't list any specifics in the owner's manual at all. This testing is largely trial-and-error, and it depends on your riding habits and road conditions. Based on my tests and responses from other Rebel 1100 owners, I would suspect that riding with a passenger will require the rear spring preload to be near its maximum setting. The general feedback so far looks like this:
- 100-120 pounds: 3 (factory setting)
- 150 pounds: 5-6
- 170 pounds: 6-7
- 200 pounds: 8-10
- 220 pounds: 10-12
- with passenger: 15+ ?
Cheers! 👍 --QM
Any chance you could measure the dbs on that exhaust? Would love to compare with other options in the market! Appreciated!
I ordered a decent (~$200 USD) industrial sound pressure meter a few days ago, so I'll try to use it to record the dB readings. It won't be a certified test, but I will try to replicate the "official" measurement procedures (e.g., distance from the source, engine RPM, idle vs open throttle, etc). If all goes well, then I'll post that follow-up video sometime within the next couple of weeks. Cheers! 👍 --QM
@@QuasiMotard Oh! That's awesome! Thank you for your dedication! Very much appreciated!
I just released the second video with a new Coffman's Shorty, and I included audio and dB readings: ua-cam.com/video/xqvVA_YBYLE/v-deo.html . I hope that helps with your shopping! Cheers! 👍 --QM
If it's aluminum would an aluminum black solution work to touch up scratches?
Yes, these are anodized (or parkerized) aluminum collars. I'm not sure if a touch-up paint or etching solution would work for covering the spanner marks. Maybe someone else in the comments has an idea? 😉👍 --QM
Question? Is the “AirHawk” any good? Please advise.
Yes, the AirHawk seat pads are fantastic! They do require a bit of tuning and fiddling around with the amount of air to achieve the best comfort. The best setting is with just a slight amount of air that only fills in the gaps, but you're still connected to the bike's seat below. Too much air makes them feel squirmy and you'll feel like you're sitting on a balloon. Cheers! 😉👍 --QM
@@QuasiMotard Thanks for getting back to me I heard the same thing slight air would do the job and comfort.
The manual should contain preload settings.
Agreed! Unfortunately, Honda omitted that spec from the owner's manual. The factory service manual has all of the details, but that manual is a separate purchase through Helm, Inc. Cheers! 😉👍 --QM
What type of mirrors are those?
Those mirrors are CRG Hindsight Lane Splitters. You can find the details in my video here (product links are in the video description): ua-cam.com/video/U7Bggy5diaM/v-deo.html . Cheers! 👍 --QM
So when you add preload on the rear is this lowering the bike slightly ?
Howdy, Peter! No, increasing spring preload will reduce the static sag (weight of the bike on the suspension) and the rider sag (weight of bike and rider on the suspension), which will generally raise the bike slightly from its laden height.
That doesn't mean that it lifts the bike up higher. The shocks can only extend to their full ride height. The springs resist "sag" or compression of the damper due to the weight of the bike and rider. The trick is to use as much of the suspension stroke as possible (smoothest ride), yet still avoid unnecessary bottoming-out of the shocks under normal riding conditions. It's not realistic to expect the suspension to NEVER bottom out, but it shouldn't be a normal occurrence. Cheers! 😉👍 --QM
Thanks for the reply, I understand what you have said, thanks again.
That's crazy its only on a 3 of 20. My 225 pound ass would have to set it at 12 or 14.
I weigh 270 imma have to go up to 20 😂😭
@@squidoo. I've got you by about 30lbs. I'm gonna have to go up to max...(And start dieting more..lol)
@@squidoo. Did you ever get a Rebel 1100, and what did you end up for the rear shock setting?
@@feloniousmonk3049 Never did get the rebel… it sucks but things just didn’t turn out.
Any idea how much preload one would need for driver + passanger together about 150kg / 330 pounds? Or how many kg/pounds of load is one click worth? I mean like... add 20kg of bags and ... how much more clicks it needs? EDIT: me, with my body+gear 95kg/210lbs finally got the rear suspension not bottoming out on normal daily commute @ 12 setting (~1cm left room from top of ziptie to the bottom beige rubber thingie. I am afraid with passanger you need to go to max 20 setting easily...
Your observations are correct. Honda designs these bikes around tiny Japanese men, not corn fed Mid West American males. The bike coming with only a single seat should be another indicator that it's not designed as a two seater, really.
I just asked the same question in the rebel group as us together are 330lbs and always ride 2 up and we've been using it in the default it came. Driving yday we hit a bump and the bump scraped something under the bike.
@@sohantanna625 And did you get an answer? If not, then I would go straight to 15 setting and start doing this ziptie test from there with passenger over some smaller bumps and adjust from there. Just be careful to not go over the max setting (which by service manual is 18? some have gone to 20, but that's already in risky territory.).
Does it feel like a full-size cruiser?
Good question! The Rebel's seating position for me is unique... not quite standard, not quite cruiser. I'm 5'7" with a 30" inseam (proportional torso length). The Rebel's mid-controls are a bit more cramped than normal cruisers, and the handlebars don't reach back toward the rider like a typical cruiser. My riding position is decidedly hunched forward, so I have ordered the Kijima handlebars that should reach back a little more so I'm not hunched forward so much. Cheers! 👍 --QM
FYI... 3 is a great start setting for 100 pound riders like me... :-P
Congrats on your Rebel 1100! WOW... that beast must really FLY with your feathery 100 pounds on it! I'm a small/light rider by USA standards, and the Rebel 1100 tries to lift the front wheel in 1st and 2nd gear with me on it. I'll bet it's even more eager to lift skyward with you aboard... that's gotta be loads of fun! Cheers! 👍 --QM
@@QuasiMotard It flies, love this bike. I accidently got a foot or so off the ground, but it stops me from doing much with the wheelie control. I don't really want to do wheelies so that's fine... just got used to rain mode the first week I had it, and was a big switch to sport. I'd probably have wrecked already if this was my first bike.
Looking at this bike, it should have been a standard first. With its peg position, it should be quite a comfortable commuter.
Do you mean "standard" as in standard/manual shift, or as in a standard/upright frame design? The Rebel 1100 is available in both manual shift and DCT versions: powersports.honda.com/street/cruiser/rebel-1100/ . The manual version weighs about 22 pounds less than the DCT (487 vs 509 lbs)... otherwise the bikes have the same performance, ergonomics, and features (e.g., ride modes, ABS, etc). Cheers! 😉👍 --QM
@@QuasiMotard Like a Ducati Monster.
Never ever seen someone place a plastic bag between nut and wrench
That's an old trick from working with anodized AN fittings. It usually helps, but doesn't do much with sharp-edged tools like a shock spanner wrench. Cheers! 😉👍 --QM
170 lbs - lucky (im taller tho) disapoint no going for cake or a soda :) ps quasi buys a new bike then starts thinking about another and yes AT engine in a 600 size bike would be good - rip the four outta cb650 and put this in it would fit
Agreed! If Honda would drop this motor into the CB650R or CB1000R chassis, and leave it in the full AT tune... oh, that would be a fun ride! I don't know how the power/weight ratio compares to the inline-4's, but the twin's torque lower down should make a great canyon carver. 👍 --QM
What are you at now
I have the rear spring preload set at #8 and the front forks about 3/4 turn in (clockwise) from stock. 😉👍 --QM
@@QuasiMotard thanks for update
The trousse of tools supplied with today's motorcycles look like toys out of the Easter egg 😂 I suffer not to see you use work gloves every click a risk of peeling your fingers😅
1
Not a good bike for someone 6'5" and 280 #'s, I'm afraid.
Nope! The ergonomics are even a bit tight for me at 5'7" and 170 lbs. Riders above 6' will feel very cramped and would probably need forward controls or footpeg relocation kits to give enough leg room. 😉👍 --QM
I'm a tad shorter than you and get leg cramps sometimes but love the bike.
8:30 that is way way to stiff 😮😮 holy smokes. I weigh 155 pounds and my is all the way up and I still feel a stiff
That's why the zip-tie test is important. It lets you see how much compression/travel is happening on the shock tube. I increased the preload all the way up to test how many steps there are; the Honda owner's manual doesn't specify how many clicks are available. My riding weight is ~170 lbs, and I'm running my Rebel at 8 clicks for normal city riding, and 11 clicks for touring (loaded with luggage on the back). --QM