Well done Papa Steve, excellent video! I also lost count and had to count from zero. I tried the zip tie test with a passenger and saddlebags, the zip tie was buried under the rubber stop at 18 clicks, I weigh 160 and my passenger is 140. When riding solo with saddlebags , my zip tie test put me at 12 for a sweet spot. This video will help so many people, well done sir!
Thanks for the encouragement and the data. I can't really use the saddlebag number without knowing how heavy the saddlebags are. The 18 clicks makes sense to me for a combined weight of 300 pounds. I'll update the table.
Had my rebel nearly 3 years and just assumed the rear suspension was fine from how it reacted just pressing down on it anyway saw this video and did the zip tie test and it was way too soft, i weigh around 250lb and i finished up setting it at 12 clicks this leaves the zip ties just off the bottom, ride is way better now so thanks for your help
Thank you for your Rebel 1100 videos, Mr Koski. I always feel better about tinkering with my machine after one of your lessons. I had already added two "clicks" to the original preload on my Rebel 1100 shocks, but now I'm confident in going much further. And considering the fact that I'm nearly twice your weight, and I travel on semi-paved Georgia goat trails, I should almost certainly do so.
Thanks for starting the table...Honda really should provide something like this. Here is result to add to your table: I weigh 169 lbs and tried various settings for multiple rides on city, rural and highway. - Front shock - fine with factory setting and travel down to 75% consistently - Rear shock - only number of clicks that consistently had the zip tie above the bottom rear shock (about 10-20% distance from bottom) was 9 for me (6 above factory setting). Surprising since you had same setting and weigh in the 200lb range. I'll try this for a while and maybe go down to 8 if I find it too stiff.
I actually found since I did the video that 6/9 was too stiff, so I've loosened the preload by one click to 5/8. I like the ride better. Although, I felt a heavy bump during my ride yesterday, when the bike bottomed out on a highway dip. I plan to do the zip tie test again. My bet is that you will eventually back off the 6/9 preload, too. You don't really need to eliminate all bottoming out, just the routine bounce.
@@papastevesgarage I have come to the same conclusion as you did and the 9 setting which prevents zip ties from bottoming on all conditions out was too hard. After trying a few settings, I settled back to 5 setting (165lbs) and just did a 800 mile 3 state road tour and was perfectly happy with this setting. After all this, not sure what the real value of the zip tie test is except finding limits of the shock travel.
Very helpful, thanks. I didn't use zip ties but added 8 clicks to each rear shock for a total of 11. I weigh 230-240 lbs. Ride is much improved. Also added 2 full rotations to each front shock to stiffen. Better. Will do a zip tie test this weekend hopefully. Bottoming the rear shocks is pretty scary. Like riding a bucking bronco!
Great video! I used the zip tie test and ended up at 9 (total) clicks just as you did. I ride solo and weigh in at around 190 lbs. On the last test ride, I hit a major pothole and the zip tie did bottom out on both back shocks but I consider that acceptable. The difference in ride and handling is very noticeable. I might stiffen the front shocks just a bit though they were well within the Honda recommended range even after hitting the pothole. 2023 DCT, less than 200 miles so far and loving the ride! Thanks Steve!
Thanks Papa Steve, as a ex road racer I totally forgot the zip tie test! Thanks for the great video, 10 clicks for me. I'm not as fast these days but alot more kilo's!
I enjoy watching your video! Thanks. I weight 156 pounds and I think I will stick to the preload for now. I will have a long trip in coming days and I will zip tie test it
@@papastevesgarage Hi, Steve, (1)my zip does not max out my rear suspension but I still decided to add 4 clicks to both of them. I found out they are too soft when I make turns. (2) just like you, I lost count and have to counterclockwise all the way up and start from there. (3) I was laughing at you when you say you lost your count to two. Well, shit happened to me today.
Very thorough video while SHOWING what you were doing. I found this video quite helpful. I am currently 6’2, 265lbs. I am currently sitting on 10 clicks but might go up 1-2 more. I have not changed the front suspension YET but will 100% be doing that. Been a little cold and wet so I’m waiting for a good day.
@@papastevesgarage Been having some unfavorable weather recently but honestly still adjusting. I need to get some calipers to see where my front is turned to. My rear also needs adjusting. I’ve been using the zip tie method and still find I bottom out. Two factors are rough roads where I’m at…lots of potholes and railroad tracks…aaaaand unfortunately putting some winter lbs on. I’ll have to give you an update when the weather gets better with updated clicks and lbs
Thank you so much for this excellent video! I'm 250 lbs and 12 (3+9) clicks are not yet enough, but the zip ties aren't getting buried, they just reach the rubber stop. I guess 1 click more and I'll be fine. Test ride felt way better already today, however!
Excellent Video....really helpful & put it to good use straight after viewing. I added the rear seat backrest & pannier holders (both Honda stock) to the bike. I noted the whole package added about 10 pounds to the rear of the bike which combined with my 188 pounds took it up to 198 pounds without the panniers themselves. I did the ZipTie test test for me & for me/added fittings. Front forks I added a half turn like yourself, the rear shocks I added 4 clicks for just me (188lbs) and added 5 clicks for me/additions (198lbs). I will obviously need to increase the preload once I add full panniers to the the bike come the Spring (Overnighting) but hopefully only by 2-4 clicks more? The roads in the Scottish Highlands, where I live, tend to be more undulating & bumpy then the roads around the towns & cities...this includes the main trunk roads through the Highlands like the A9, A 82, A83, A86 & A93. Thanks Again "Papa" Steve.
I did not know there was a toolkit under the seat! 'scrwing the adjuster off thed of the shock absorber, doen't sound like a good thin' Got it Papa Steve!
Hello! I bought used bike and don't know settings in front forks. Can I firstly adjust it fully counterclockwise to 0 position? Can I feel stop at 0 pisition?
Thanks for the great video and information! Did you end up updating your preload suspension/weight chart with more weight information? I didn’t see an updated chart at the end of the video. Cheers mate!
The info I received from viewers was pretty meager. Too often I couldn't use it because I couldn't tell if the respondent used my method. So, I created my graph. The updated graph is not in the video. I listed the values in the information to the video and provided a weblink to the graph. I want to emphasize that the graph only provides estimates. Do your own zip-tie test. I hope that helps.
Thanks for this video. I also like the chart you've linked in the description. Question - Suppose I loose count... Will the rear shock stop allowing me to turn it once I've reached the maximum number of clicks? Or the minimum number of clicks? Or do I risk completely disassembling the shock itself if I loose count? Thanks again!
You can screw the adjuster off the end of the shock if you go to far. If you lose count, it’s safer to crank the adjustor to it’s minimum compression, then count back out from there.
I saw a video saying the opposite for rear shocks. Said to loosen all the way to avoid violent rebound. The front adjustment was minimal but I forgot tightrope or looser. 170lb rider aprox
Interesting but dubious idea. The only way I know how to avoid "violent rebound" would be to install rebound dampening shocks. The Rebel 1100 with factory suspension doesn't do a great job of rebound dampening. My suspension adjustment method doesn't address rebound. I only show how to reduce bottoming out the rear shocks. You wouldn't want your car suspension to bottom out routinely while you're driving. The same applies to your motorcycle. Of course, when you increase the preload, the suspension will get stiffer, but the stiffer suspension will also ease your buns over the potholes and speed bumps by avoiding the sudden stop when the shocks bottom out and slam into their rubber bumpers. Send me the link to the site you saw if you get a chance.
@@papastevesgarage Dave Moss Tuning focuses on race track suspension set ups. His videos set up various sport bikes. He lowered the Rebel's preload to better match what he thought the weak dampening needed. But in his defense, he did tell the owner to put grease on the shock shaft to check travel and ensure the shock wasn't bottoming out. I just got my Rebel DCT this week. I'll rebuild the shocks with heavier oil over the winter. Increase the compression and rebound to go with new stronger springs.
@@papastevesgarage Thanks for the reply. Considering my weight (187 w gear) + 1100T DCT (+22 pounds difference with non-T DCT) + accessories (+3 pounds for now) + my usual backpack (8 pounds or so) I should consider a rider weight equivalent to 220 pounds on your graph, which is like 6 clicks I presume. I was using it with 8 on commute and 10 on highway and I was feeling everything on the road, maybe that was the reason :D I should use it w 6 on daily commute and 7 on highway or when I fill my saddlebags and backpack with groceries. Increasing preload above the needs causes actually a lower travel so I understand that now. I would appreciate if you make a similar graph considering the fork offsets but measurements from offset surface via a caliper maybe, instead of turns from the stock position (my forks had different offset on right and left fork btw, user should check it).
Any idea if this ADDS any additional suspension travel to the rear suspension? Can you measure it? Is the stroke length of the 2 shocks any different or longer?
I can't give you a definitive answer because I haven't found one that persuades me. I don't think changing preload changes the available suspension travel very much if any bit at all, other than changing the distance the shock plunger travels because the spring is softer or stiffer. I could be wrong about this. I invite input from viewers who have greater expertise. What preload adjustment does is to add or subtract compression to the springs so the ride becomes stiffer or softer.
Increasing preload doesn't increase suspension travel. To do that, you'd have to replace shock absorbers with ones that have longer stroke. I think Stiletto Shocks from Burly does that?
Thankyou...please clarify....if I'm a big boy 265 lbs...I would be turning the tool counterclockwise in the rear shocks to increase the length of the springs so I don't bottom out...is this the correct thinking about this?
You're thinking about it backwards. What you want to do is increase the shock absorber preload to make the springs stiffer, not to increase their length. Turn the adjuster clockwise for stiffer springs.
@Papa Steve's Rebel 1100 Garage thankyou for your reply...it just seems to me that the stiffer springs would make the bounce less cushioned...the longer the spring the more length of your bounce....I thought I read the manual correctly....no?
@@accordiondr The ride will be stiffer, but you will reduce the frequency that the springs bottom out. That actually makes the ride better. Ride smoothness depends on the relationship between "sprung weight" and "unsprung weight" as controlled by the stiffness of the springs. Sprung weight is the combined weight of the motorcycle and the rider resting on the springs. Unsprung weight is all of the weight below the springs: wheels, tire, drive gear, and such. The greater the difference between sprung and unsprung weight, the stiffer your springs need to be. Your 265 pounds, plus the sprung weight of the motorcycle, is 60 pounds heavier than me on my Rebel 1100. You need stiffer springs to compensate for the additional weight. I bet when you add the spring preload, you'll be pleasantly surprised with the quality of the ride. Take some time to do the zip tie test, before and after making the adjustment so you can physically see the difference your adjustments make.
@Cruisin' with Papa Steve thankyou...I must think about this a bit....not knowing I counterclockwise all shocks all the way...nothing came loose and the ride was comfortable over bumps...the larger springs seemed to cushion me more from the shorter springs in the rear and also same effects on front end 🤔
Nice video. So I would think if the max load weight of the bike is 348 pounds and the rear suspension has 18 clicks, divide 348 x 18 which equals 19.33 pounds per click. So if you weigh 205 pounds divide this by 19.33 then the number of clicks is approx 10.6. for your weight. Then I would - or + 1 click depending on how it rides. I see you got 9 which isn't to far from 10.6 so maybe this is a quick way to get you in the ball park first. Using the zip tie is a brilliant idea though.
I like the way you think. However, you're idea is based on two assumptions that may or may not be valid. First, the math assumes the relationship between rider weight and spring compression is linear. I don't know enough about shock absorber engineering to know whether the weight/compression ratio is linear or nonlinear. Second, the idea assumes that Honda engineers have matched the Rebel 1100's shock absorbers to a range of rider weights from 19.33 pounds at 1 click to 348 pounds at 18 clicks. I suspect it is not likely Honda engineers seriously considered riders weighing less than 100 pounds would be cruising on a 500-pound, 84-horsepower motorcycle. That would render the first five clicks mostly meaningless. Even so, I agree with you that calculating the appropriate number of clicks mathematically, is pretty good starting point. Thanks for the insight.
@@bennytuomolin4416 Thanks. I knew that. I looked up my name in Translator once. My grandparents on my father's side were both Finnish and English speakers. But I'm third generation. I know all of five words in Finnish. I would tell you what they are but unfortunately I never learned how to spell them.
Probably about 5 kg per click. 160kg max to about 3 clicks 65 kg. 9 clicks for 210 # or 95 kg. 30 kg added = 6 clicks added. 275# rider = 125 kg 125- 65g = 60 kg more / 5 kg - click means add 12 clicks to the existing 3. That should get you in the ball park for 275 #
That plastic bag trick is a new one. Worth watching the video
Well done Papa Steve, excellent video! I also lost count and had to count from zero. I tried the zip tie test with a passenger and saddlebags, the zip tie was buried under the rubber stop at 18 clicks, I weigh 160 and my passenger is 140. When riding solo with saddlebags , my zip tie test put me at 12 for a sweet spot. This video will help so many people, well done sir!
Thanks for the encouragement and the data. I can't really use the saddlebag number without knowing how heavy the saddlebags are. The 18 clicks makes sense to me for a combined weight of 300 pounds. I'll update the table.
Had my rebel nearly 3 years and just assumed the rear suspension was fine from how it reacted just pressing down on it anyway saw this video and did the zip tie test and it was way too soft, i weigh around 250lb and i finished up setting it at 12 clicks this leaves the zip ties just off the bottom, ride is way better now so thanks for your help
I appreciate your feedback. Glad I could help.
At 10:40 mark I became a subscriber. Just got my 1100. Love the videos, thanks!
Let me know how much you enjoy the ride.
Good video. Clear dialog, good camera work, thorough. Thanks.
Glad it was helpful!
Thank you for your Rebel 1100 videos, Mr Koski. I always feel better about tinkering with my machine after one of your lessons.
I had already added two "clicks" to the original preload on my Rebel 1100 shocks, but now I'm confident in going much further. And considering the fact that I'm nearly twice your weight, and I travel on semi-paved Georgia goat trails, I should almost certainly do so.
Very welcome! Have you run the cable tie test to check your preload settings?
Thanks for starting the table...Honda really should provide something like this.
Here is result to add to your table: I weigh 169 lbs and tried various settings for multiple rides on city, rural and highway.
- Front shock - fine with factory setting and travel down to 75% consistently
- Rear shock - only number of clicks that consistently had the zip tie above the bottom rear shock (about 10-20% distance from bottom) was 9 for me (6 above factory setting). Surprising since you had same setting and weigh in the 200lb range. I'll try this for a while and maybe go down to 8 if I find it too stiff.
I actually found since I did the video that 6/9 was too stiff, so I've loosened the preload by one click to 5/8. I like the ride better. Although, I felt a heavy bump during my ride yesterday, when the bike bottomed out on a highway dip. I plan to do the zip tie test again. My bet is that you will eventually back off the 6/9 preload, too. You don't really need to eliminate all bottoming out, just the routine bounce.
@@papastevesgarage I have come to the same conclusion as you did and the 9 setting which prevents zip ties from bottoming on all conditions out was too hard. After trying a few settings, I settled back to 5 setting (165lbs) and just did a 800 mile 3 state road tour and was perfectly happy with this setting. After all this, not sure what the real value of the zip tie test is except finding limits of the shock travel.
Very helpful, thanks. I didn't use zip ties but added 8 clicks to each rear shock for a total of 11. I weigh 230-240 lbs. Ride is much improved. Also added 2 full rotations to each front shock to stiffen. Better. Will do a zip tie test this weekend hopefully. Bottoming the rear shocks is pretty scary. Like riding a bucking bronco!
Let me know what click count you settle on after the the zip tie test. I'll enter your results into my online table.
Great video! I used the zip tie test and ended up at 9 (total) clicks just as you did. I ride solo and weigh in at around 190 lbs. On the last test ride, I hit a major pothole and the zip tie did bottom out on both back shocks but I consider that acceptable. The difference in ride and handling is very noticeable. I might stiffen the front shocks just a bit though they were well within the Honda recommended range even after hitting the pothole. 2023 DCT, less than 200 miles so far and loving the ride! Thanks Steve!
It's great motorcycle. I'm glad you found my video helpful. Stay in touch.
Thanks Papa Steve, as a ex road racer I totally forgot the zip tie test! Thanks for the great video, 10 clicks for me. I'm not as fast these days but alot more kilo's!
Tell me your weight so I can update my table.
I enjoy watching your video! Thanks. I weight 156 pounds and I think I will stick to the preload for now. I will have a long trip in coming days and I will zip tie test it
Let me know what you learn after the zip tie test.
@@papastevesgarage Hi, Steve, (1)my zip does not max out my rear suspension but I still decided to add 4 clicks to both of them. I found out they are too soft when I make turns. (2) just like you, I lost count and have to counterclockwise all the way up and start from there. (3) I was laughing at you when you say you lost your count to two. Well, shit happened to me today.
Very thorough video while SHOWING what you were doing. I found this video quite helpful. I am currently 6’2, 265lbs. I am currently sitting on 10 clicks but might go up 1-2 more. I have not changed the front suspension YET but will 100% be doing that. Been a little cold and wet so I’m waiting for a good day.
How's the ride? I backed off a click on mine, which softened the ride without increasing bottoming out much. I'm 5' 10 and down to 196 now.
@@papastevesgarage Been having some unfavorable weather recently but honestly still adjusting. I need to get some calipers to see where my front is turned to. My rear also needs adjusting. I’ve been using the zip tie method and still find I bottom out. Two factors are rough roads where I’m at…lots of potholes and railroad tracks…aaaaand unfortunately putting some winter lbs on. I’ll have to give you an update when the weather gets better with updated clicks and lbs
Thank you so much for this excellent video! I'm 250 lbs and 12 (3+9) clicks are not yet enough, but the zip ties aren't getting buried, they just reach the rubber stop. I guess 1 click more and I'll be fine.
Test ride felt way better already today, however!
If they just reach the rubber stops, I think your setting is fine. The suspension will get very stiff if you adjust too far.
Excellent Video....really helpful & put it to good use straight after viewing. I added the rear seat backrest & pannier holders (both Honda stock) to the bike. I noted the whole package added about 10 pounds to the rear of the bike which combined with my 188 pounds took it up to 198 pounds without the panniers themselves. I did the ZipTie test test for me & for me/added fittings. Front forks I added a half turn like yourself, the rear shocks I added 4 clicks for just me (188lbs) and added 5 clicks for me/additions (198lbs). I will obviously need to increase the preload once I add full panniers to the the bike come the Spring (Overnighting) but hopefully only by 2-4 clicks more? The roads in the Scottish Highlands, where I live, tend to be more undulating & bumpy then the roads around the towns & cities...this includes the main trunk roads through the Highlands like the A9, A 82, A83, A86 & A93. Thanks Again "Papa" Steve.
Thanks for the feedback. You preloadings sound about right. Enjoy your ride.
Excellent explanation and video illustration on shock adjustments. I also like your jokes. 👍🏾
Thank you kindly!
I enjoy your videos! Love that it's specifically for the Rebel 1100. SUBSCRIBED!
I did not know there was a toolkit under the seat! 'scrwing the adjuster off thed of the shock absorber, doen't sound like a good thin' Got it Papa Steve!
Thanks for you comment.
I weigh 220 so just copied your suggestion of 6 extra clicks, yet to ride it and test it, will keep you posted
Let me know how it rides now.
Hello! I bought used bike and don't know settings in front forks. Can I firstly adjust it fully counterclockwise to 0 position? Can I feel stop at 0 pisition?
Love your videos
You bring joy to my heart. Keep watching.
Thank you, I really like the chart at the end.
Glad you like it!
,muy explicito, fácil de entender y un excelente humor
I don't speak or write any Spanish. But thank you for the compliment.
We’re should zip tie be positioned when you are done 1/2 way are code bottom
I'm sorry I don't understand your question. Please resubmit it.
Thanks for the great video and information! Did you end up updating your preload suspension/weight chart with more weight information? I didn’t see an updated chart at the end of the video. Cheers mate!
The info I received from viewers was pretty meager. Too often I couldn't use it because I couldn't tell if the respondent used my method. So, I created my graph. The updated graph is not in the video. I listed the values in the information to the video and provided a weblink to the graph. I want to emphasize that the graph only provides estimates. Do your own zip-tie test. I hope that helps.
Thanks for this video. I also like the chart you've linked in the description.
Question - Suppose I loose count... Will the rear shock stop allowing me to turn it once I've reached the maximum number of clicks? Or the minimum number of clicks? Or do I risk completely disassembling the shock itself if I loose count?
Thanks again!
You can screw the adjuster off the end of the shock if you go to far. If you lose count, it’s safer to crank the adjustor to it’s minimum compression, then count back out from there.
@@papastevesgarage Thanks!
I saw a video saying the opposite for rear shocks. Said to loosen all the way to avoid violent rebound. The front adjustment was minimal but I forgot tightrope or looser. 170lb rider aprox
Interesting but dubious idea. The only way I know how to avoid "violent rebound" would be to install rebound dampening shocks. The Rebel 1100 with factory suspension doesn't do a great job of rebound dampening.
My suspension adjustment method doesn't address rebound. I only show how to reduce bottoming out the rear shocks. You wouldn't want your car suspension to bottom out routinely while you're driving. The same applies to your motorcycle. Of course, when you increase the preload, the suspension will get stiffer, but the stiffer suspension will also ease your buns over the potholes and speed bumps by avoiding the sudden stop when the shocks bottom out and slam into their rubber bumpers.
Send me the link to the site you saw if you get a chance.
@@papastevesgarage Dave Moss Tuning focuses on race track suspension set ups. His videos set up various sport bikes. He lowered the Rebel's preload to better match what he thought the weak dampening needed. But in his defense, he did tell the owner to put grease on the shock shaft to check travel and ensure the shock wasn't bottoming out. I just got my Rebel DCT this week. I'll rebuild the shocks with heavier oil over the winter. Increase the compression and rebound to go with new stronger springs.
Hi handsome. Great video & vocabulary. More videos please. Thanks.
Keep watchin'
Great! Thank you Papa Steve!
My pleasure!
très bonne vidéo explicative ; hello from MARSEILLE ( FRANCE )
Merci. You now have experienced the extent of my French. I'm delighted you found my video useful. I hope you subscribed. More videos are coming.
Outstanding video, sir!!
Glad you liked it!
Another good video, thanks.
Glad you enjoyed it
Hi, do you consider the DCT version on this XY graph, or the manual version?
There's ~20pounds (~10kg difference) in between both versions, F.Y.I.
My data is about the DCT only. But the same zip-tie test will work on the manual transmission version. Thanks for the input.
@@papastevesgarage Thanks for the reply.
Considering my weight (187 w gear) + 1100T DCT (+22 pounds difference with non-T DCT) + accessories (+3 pounds for now) + my usual backpack (8 pounds or so) I should consider a rider weight equivalent to 220 pounds on your graph, which is like 6 clicks I presume.
I was using it with 8 on commute and 10 on highway and I was feeling everything on the road, maybe that was the reason :D I should use it w 6 on daily commute and 7 on highway or when I fill my saddlebags and backpack with groceries.
Increasing preload above the needs causes actually a lower travel so I understand that now.
I would appreciate if you make a similar graph considering the fork offsets but measurements from offset surface via a caliper maybe, instead of turns from the stock position (my forks had different offset on right and left fork btw, user should check it).
Great video and very helpful.
Glad to hear it!
Love your humor
I'm too shy to do stand up.
I am finally a new owner of a 1100T DCT and loving the bike. I will try your suggestions
Any idea if this ADDS any additional suspension travel to the rear suspension? Can you measure it?
Is the stroke length of the 2 shocks any different or longer?
I can't give you a definitive answer because I haven't found one that persuades me. I don't think changing preload changes the available suspension travel very much if any bit at all, other than changing the distance the shock plunger travels because the spring is softer or stiffer. I could be wrong about this. I invite input from viewers who have greater expertise.
What preload adjustment does is to add or subtract compression to the springs so the ride becomes stiffer or softer.
Increasing preload doesn't increase suspension travel. To do that, you'd have to replace shock absorbers with ones that have longer stroke. I think Stiletto Shocks from Burly does that?
Thankyou...please clarify....if I'm a big boy 265 lbs...I would be turning the tool counterclockwise in the rear shocks to increase the length of the springs so I don't bottom out...is this the correct thinking about this?
You're thinking about it backwards. What you want to do is increase the shock absorber preload to make the springs stiffer, not to increase their length. Turn the adjuster clockwise for stiffer springs.
@Papa Steve's Rebel 1100 Garage thankyou for your reply...it just seems to me that the stiffer springs would make the bounce less cushioned...the longer the spring the more length of your bounce....I thought I read the manual correctly....no?
@@accordiondr The ride will be stiffer, but you will reduce the frequency that the springs bottom out. That actually makes the ride better. Ride smoothness depends on the relationship between "sprung weight" and "unsprung weight" as controlled by the stiffness of the springs. Sprung weight is the combined weight of the motorcycle and the rider resting on the springs. Unsprung weight is all of the weight below the springs: wheels, tire, drive gear, and such. The greater the difference between sprung and unsprung weight, the stiffer your springs need to be. Your 265 pounds, plus the sprung weight of the motorcycle, is 60 pounds heavier than me on my Rebel 1100. You need stiffer springs to compensate for the additional weight. I bet when you add the spring preload, you'll be pleasantly surprised with the quality of the ride. Take some time to do the zip tie test, before and after making the adjustment so you can physically see the difference your adjustments make.
@Cruisin' with Papa Steve thankyou...I must think about this a bit....not knowing I counterclockwise all shocks all the way...nothing came loose and the ride was comfortable over bumps...the larger springs seemed to cushion me more from the shorter springs in the rear and also same effects on front end 🤔
Make sure you are looking down from the top for clockwise/Cc reference.
I have my set to 7 and I weight 170 so I added 4 clicks from factory
You like your ride firm. Keep me posted if you decide to change it. I've updated my chart with your info.
@@papastevesgarage I added 4 clicks so it’s 7 in total sorry for the confusion
Hi, so when you add preload on the rear is this lowering the rear slightly ?
No just adding tension to the spring
Very good!✌️👍🏍👍✌️
Thanks ✌️
Nice video. So I would think if the max load weight of the bike is 348 pounds
and the rear suspension has 18 clicks, divide 348 x 18 which equals 19.33 pounds per click. So if you weigh 205 pounds divide this by 19.33 then the number of clicks is approx 10.6. for your weight. Then I would - or + 1 click depending on how it rides. I see you got 9 which isn't to far from 10.6 so maybe this is a quick way to get you in the ball park first. Using the zip tie is a brilliant idea though.
I like the way you think. However, you're idea is based on two assumptions that may or may not be valid.
First, the math assumes the relationship between rider weight and spring compression is linear. I don't know enough about shock absorber engineering to know whether the weight/compression ratio is linear or nonlinear.
Second, the idea assumes that Honda engineers have matched the Rebel 1100's shock absorbers to a range of rider weights from 19.33 pounds at 1 click to 348 pounds at 18 clicks. I suspect it is not likely Honda engineers seriously considered riders weighing less than 100 pounds would be cruising on a 500-pound, 84-horsepower motorcycle. That would render the first five clicks mostly meaningless. Even so, I agree with you that calculating the appropriate number of clicks mathematically, is pretty good starting point. Thanks for the insight.
Compared to the Scout the Rebel rear shocks are great (158 lbs)
Have you run the zip tie test?
@@cruisinwithpapasteve4907 No, the Rebel is in hibernation. November to April too much snow and too cold here in Finland😂☃️
@@bennytuomolin4416 I didn’t realize you’re Finnish. My ancestors are Finnish on my father’s side.
@@cruisinwithpapasteve4907 Could tell from your name😀. Koski is Finnish for rapids, white water.
@@bennytuomolin4416 Thanks. I knew that. I looked up my name in Translator once. My grandparents on my father's side were both Finnish and English speakers. But I'm third generation. I know all of five words in Finnish. I would tell you what they are but unfortunately I never learned how to spell them.
Probably about 5 kg per click. 160kg max to about 3 clicks 65 kg. 9 clicks for 210 # or 95 kg. 30 kg added = 6 clicks added. 275# rider = 125 kg 125- 65g = 60 kg more / 5 kg - click means add 12 clicks to the existing 3. That should get you in the ball park for 275 #
I'll graph this when I get a chance and post the visual. Thanks for the input.
@@papastevesgarage is this for front and back? 5kg per click?