To all the wingers and moaners , complaining this and that about this guys methods. Be thankful he took the time to show you this! If you dont like it, then pi55 off somewhere else. Thanks for the vid bud😊
I have not done this in a car engine, but if you spray BBQ grill cleaner into the cylinder, it removes carbon buildup really fast. 50 years ago I tried using a quart of Rislone in an old Chevy 283 V8 engine with lifter noise. It wasn't very long and the lifter noise stopped. The stuff had the consistency of water and you added it to the oil 100 miles before an oil change. About five years later, I started putting ATF in with the oil change, and it cleaned up old engines nicely. Been doing it ever since. ATF is a high detergent engine oil, needed to keep transmission passages clean and not harmful to gaskets and seals.
@@Priority57 I do not know what would happen if one were to let the cleaner soak the carbon on the ring lands. I have never tried it. I suppose it is possible, but one also would worry about ring lubrication for the first few minutes?
When you were cleaning the plug recess on number 1 and you used compressed air to blast it out, the smoke in the crank case blew out of the breather pipe @ 8:14 . I thought that you had already taken the plug out and that was identifying the cause of your blow by. But when I went back and had another look, I realised the plug was still in. So how was the compressed air getting into the crank case when the plug was still in ? Maybe the cover gasket was leaking ?
Regarding oil changes: I sometimes add a little Marvel Mystery oil to my oil when I change the oil, or just prior to an oil change to keep from building any sludge. Every year or two I do a double oil change on my Honda. I add motor flush to the oil & let idle for 5 minutes, then drain the oil. Then I add 2 quarts oil & fill the rest of the way with Marvel Mystery oil & install a new cheap oil filter & idle for 5 minutes. Lastly, I fill with a good synthetic oil & good oil filter & the oil is so clean that you need to look at the oil dipstick in the sun to see the oil level. My car currently has over 213,000 miles on it & the inside on the valve cover is as clean as when it was a new car. Regarding frozen piston rings: I used Seafoam & Marvel Mystery oil on my 1991 Honda civic Si that was burning allot of oil @ 200,000 miles. At the time I was using 10-40 oil with Hyperlube, which it really thick & it still burned allot of oil. I took the spark plugs out and poured Seafoam into each cylinder & loosely put the spark plugs back & let it sit overnight. The next day I used a dowel to put into the cylinders through the spark plug hole to see how much liquid was in each cylinder. I then sucked the liquid out & bumped the starter with the sparkplugs out to move the pistons to a different position. I repeated this process for four days/nights using Seafoam two times & Marvel Mystery oil the last two times. When finished, I made sure all liquid was out of the cylinders & put the sparkplugs back in and started the car. Now I put 0-30 oil in car & it burns no oil. The rings must have been frozen with carbon, but they are fine now.
A former co-worker of mine had a buddy that had a pickup that had a continual tick in the engine. He started putting a bottle of atf in place of a quart of oil when he changed the oil. After doing it several oil changes, the tick went away. He ultimately sold the pickup to another guy, who rebuilt the engine. That guy said when he pulled the pistons out, they were completely clean, and the valves had absolutely no buildup on them. The cam looked clean and the crankshaft was clean.
@@JonnyAbs-0 The truck had several hundred thousand miles on it by that point, and the new owner decided to do a ring and gasket rebuild due to the miles.
Hello mate, can you please tell me how he used the atf?? Did he use it as a flush before the oil change, then drain the atf and then replace it with fresh oil? Thanks
Just had a friend with a Camaro with 80,000 miles and regular oil changes but there was sludge on the pistons when taken to the dealer. Drives only in the city. Don't understand why it happened?.
@@Na-nc6qt because he only drives in the city. That PCV gets hot but not hot enough. Carbon only sticks between like a 30°F window. Idk the actual temps but it's like 190° to 220° or something but highways gets rid of that because you're working the car a little harder in a sweet spot it actually enjoys being in. It keeps the pistons hot, but not outrageous, and it's low heat cycle rate. The Camaros were known to have PCV issues in the 5th gen V6 or V8
Acetone and synthetic transmission fluid is excellent to use on rusted bolts . It is mixed 1 to 1 parts of each. It must be shaken each time it is used. I think it works better than Kroyl myself.
If i mix atf and accetone can I damage engine if I leave for a day? Engine didnt work 3 years and I can turn like for a 90 degresse , but not whole turn
Oil in the spark plug wells can often mean the lower tube seal failed and people incorrectly blame the top seals. I’ve read that some tubes are removable but for the 3.6 GM said they’re pressed in and would require a new cylinder head. After a thorough cleaning, I applied a green, penetrating grade threadlocker. It appears that Nissan didn’t have direct injection so my experience may not apply but I’ve found heavily carboned intake valve ports caused from PCV vapors depositing oil and repeatedly baking layer upon layer under those carbon chunks flake off, fouling spark plugs and causing leaking between the valve seat and faces, which means lost compression on the affected cylinder(s) and possibly an engine misfire, most noticeable at idle. Those carbon chunks probably aren’t great for the cylinder wall but I suppose they could make it past the exhaust valves as well, and possibly not great for the catalytic converter(s) either. Long story short, after a thorough clean-out and just luckily getting the idle smoothed out, I sent my in-law down the road but the ‘12 Impala 3.6 died on the freeway (after 200 miles) with a MAF sensor code and bogged down with every press of the pedal. The MAF sensor was oily (from back-pressure) and I recalled an exhaust rattle that went away shortly after starting that I was told began years ago after an accident. Unbolting the front of the rear catalytic converter revealed a massive blockage that had to come from upstream of there so I removed the crossover pipe from the front and rear exhaust manifolds. Both had their own catalytic converters and the one near the firewall had a darker center in the honeycomb structure and maybe a few plugged holes but merely blowing air into it really brought the chucks down. Eventually that firewall cat turned into nothing but a bypass pipe and the blockage and years-old exhaust rattle was gone so I sent my broke in-law down the road. I warned the oxygen sensor may set a code but 6 tanks of gas and still no light. Ya know, those carbon and sludge problems wouldn’t exist if people just changed their oil with full synthetic oil and never dinosaur oil or synthetic blends, plus they could extend the time between changes from 3K miles to 5K miles. The best full synthetic oils and filters say 20K miles, which is why I’ve switched to ‘em (only a couple bucks more than SuperTech) but I’m sticking with 5K mile oil changes.
@@religion3166 Some engines demand a certain viscosity and straying too far could be detrimental but I’m just a guy that wrenches on my own vehicles. As for the soak, aside from the danger of hydrolock, I imagine the liquid would trickle past the rings and dilute the oil (hopefully nothing that could cause cavitation) but another concern would be evacuation past the exhaust valves and having a negative effect on the catalytic converter. (like gasoline from a constant engine misfire) There are quite a few YT videos where a guy had an oil consumption issue and he was convinced it was a stuck oil ring so he tried all sorts of things (multiple videos) one sort of like your question. Sometimes the instant remedies fail so honing the cylinders and installing a new set of rings is needed.
I watch Taryl Dactal (Taryl fixes all channel) for repair info on small engines, grass cutters and that type of equipment. You are very good go to for questions for car engines, BTW, Taryl wears "hillbilly teeth" during his video's, however keep doing what your doing. I have learned some really good info. Thanks for the videos.
There's a TSB for excessive oil consumption for the QR motors, has to do with the catalytic converter media breaking down and getting sucked back into the cylinders. Just search QR25 Precat Failure. Nissan had a recall on it at one point.
I had two of these one both fixed but my second one was fixed at a higher mileage way to late and started burning oil and eventually blew a head gasket to the point I couldn't rev the motor because the oil was so thick by the time I got to my destination on a long trip.
Everything I've owned required text book knowledge to keep it running............... It's good to watch someone else wrenching because it gives you a different way to think about a problem.
Not even done watching this and I'm gonna comment already. I literally just finshed making a video like this on a Yamaha Waverunner an hour ago. Then came inside the house to try and watch a pro mechanic on how they "free up" stuck rings. I have my number 3 cylinder giving low compression. Inspection camera on side view shows all valves look to be closing when blipping the starter, all or at least most of the way if not all the way. That sent me to shooting a couple squirts of oil down hole 3. Compression came up from 55psi to about 180psi (normal is 210 to 220). All the other 3 are at 220'ish. Never heard of throwing ATF into the oil to free up rings from below but sure beats pulling the motor to do something similar in a jar. I was thinking about adding a bottle of seafoam to the top of cylinder 3 at dead bottom, wait a couple days and see how much seeps down into the oil. Never thought of using brake cleaner but surely that is a great place for me to start...then I'll waste out a can of seafoam to have that drain down next then do the oil change needed to see if she frees up the rings. At least one of those should show signs of my compression coming up before having to pull another motor. Thanks for the idea! I don't think I have paint thinner but will do the brake cleaner/paint thinner mixture if I do. Thanks for posting this! EDIT ADDITION: Man, great idea on watching the smoke to find the offending leaking cylinder!
So this is usually due to lack of maintenance except for a couple toyota engines. The 2azfe being one. They ran a really really thin oil ring and literally clogged up after 30k miles and then started using oil. Right now my toyota rav4, uses 1qt ever full tank of gas.. and I've had it since it was new. I changed oil every 3k miles (damn the recommended 5k miles) and I always ran Rotella full synthetic. Which I've been able to prove has the least amount of breakdown back in 2004. (They could have changed their ingredients since then, idk) I need to try that test again and send the vials off of different brands to the same lab since it's still around. Anyways I'm gonna try this on the rav4.
If the problem with this car is truly carbon and sludge build up in the ring grooves, then using solvent based cleaners in the oil will definitely work, but it needs to be the right cleaners and the process may take some time like a few weeks and maybe an oil change or two. I have found Liquid Wrench to be excellent for this job, I have used a quart in a 5 1/2 quart capacity oil volume. If there is an acute problem such as a noise or drastic oil consumption there can be noticeable improvement pretty quick, but it will take continued treatment over some time to really do a good clean up because the area gummed up is in a hard to reach location for the oil and by its nature the flushing/cleaning process is pretty slow. Put the cleaner in and drive the car, you need the hours of time and the stop start cycles. This condition is due to poor maintenance but was once also because of poorly formulated motor oils, back in the early days. For the past 30 years the oils have upgraded to the point that now the chief reason for gumming up the works in a motor is just too long between oil changes, and factory recommended is TOO long.
just pouring anything in the cylinder isn't going to do any good if the sludge is accumulated at TDC; you need to splash the liquid around with an air line like I did. So that it disolves the sludge; I put some brake cleaner and I also used transmission fluid at different times and splashed it around and leave it to soak for an hour and I could see the sludge sliding down the cylinder walls.Even if it doesn't cure the ring problem I think that having clean cylinders are important, because dirty cylinders and valves can cause misfires too.
Install oil catch cans on both pcv and breather hoses might stop oil vapour sucked in combustion chamber.. can reduce oil consumption.. might free up stuck rings as well.. can reduce carbon build up too...
Ok..Lack of maintenance..Last Resort...Do a hot oil and filter change..Then add Classic Engine Restorer with CSL (Copper/ Silver / Lead) Use the 6 cylinder Can for added product..If it helps..It can support rings/ Valve guides/Bearings...Last effort before rebuild/Low mileage engine swap.....
To remove sludge : put a little diesel fuel in each cylinder then change oil and ad in a half a bottle of marval mystrey oil in crank case . then run it under normal conditions .😊
Regular oil doesn't actually clean anything out. The detergents are to prevent sludge buildup, not actually clean anything... solvents are poor lubricators... if you want to fix compression due to stuck rings you need to use a solvent.
Bro the way you do things is exactly how everybody should be doing. By far the best mechanic I’ve ever met yet ! I know cars but the way you do things I’m learning a lot from just one video . Definitely Subscribed!! God bless you and the work you do . Everything you say makes sense. Most important you don’t waste people’s time . And btw the reason Brake cleaner is so powerful is because it contains acetone in it. Paint thinner is just as strong and good for cleaning converters
I have the oil burning 2.4L Toyota engine in my 2006 Scion tC due to poor piston design. I did an engine soak by pouring in Marvel Mystery Oil in the cylinders and letting it soak while occasionally agitating the engine. This worked pretty good the first time. I later added brake cleaner and a bit of WD-40 to the cylinders. While I did cut oil consumption by about 50% it still burns oil. i am not sure what I will try next. Maybe this is all I can do. I am not a mechanic.
Seafoam the shit out of it then add some to the tank. Get out on the highway and drive it. Not driving your car on the highway gets build up inside the engine.
I’m rebuilding the engine in my 2001 Deville. It had rings that would damn near fall off the pistons. There is nothing you can do to an engine with bad rings.
Not only oil scraper rings are clogged but the piston oil return hole are carbonized as well. Carbon turns into crystalized molecules and it s almost impossible to remove it without rebuilding the engine. Using brake cleaner (Acetone) would clean the top of cylinders effeciently but would damage the cylinder walls coating especially alusil/nikasil bores. Paint thinner will definitely damage seals. An engine that has VVT and solenoids cannot benefit from fluid soak. Solenoids will be clogged and hydraulic oil tiny passages will be clogged. FATALITY. Using high synthetic 5W30FE with high TBN like Liqui Moly special Tec B FE 5w30 which has a tbn of 11.7 every 500k miles can defenitely help dislodge the oil drain holes carbon and piston rings gunk.
Did you notice that when you blew air into the #1 plug hole (b4 plug removal) that the pcv hose blew smoke out. This tells me the plug well seal between the valve cover and head is bad.
@@padraicmcguire108 I noticed that too but I just assumed, because the ring was stuck in its contracted state, that the compressed air blowing inside was passing the piston ring and pushing vapor out of the PCV. But no, you’re absolutely right. The spark plug was still installed when he used the compressed air.
@@partsshooter I saw that too. In that moment you were cleaning the hole before removing the spark plug. You applied air bec your pump failed, and then u can see the smoke coming from the pvc pipe when the plug was still installed.
IMHO to avoid sticking piston ring in the 1st place is to use good engine cleaners while using the car. Never had pistons sticking in my family cars , I always insisted on using cleaners.
@@Priority57 Additives that go in fuel, mainly had diesel cara but I use it in gas too. Also did an engine clean but my engine didn't need it that much. Some cars need early oil changes.
Man I just got called dumb for pouring thinner in my gas tank to clean the injectors, maybe the get dammaged and the pump, but its worth the risk if im going to change that anyway. In cylinder’s to clean the sludge, its a masterpiece.
My car BMW Serie1 116d 2012 190k km. It is burning oil 800g every 800km. There is no liking There is no smoke at all, black o blue There is no oil in the exhausted Engine behave pretty normal what Flippen is?
I have a Jeep Wrangler 4.0 l There’s no visual oil leaking on the bottom of the oil pan nore in other visible area but I do be missing motor oil . About half a quart about a month that goes by . No smoke at the tail pipe and tail pipe smells like nothing . This has got me going crazy
Chlorinated brake cleaner, or pure carbon tetrachloride would work best for carbon removal. Of the non chlorinated brake cleaners. 3M works far better than the rest of them.
Me too.... 🤔 logically gas would be better correct me if I'm wrong. I mean, if fuel can wash out lifters like on Chevy eco tech engines, it'll eat sludge??? - likely not 😆 Diesel reminds me of sea foam... I left it in jars with sludge and it was ineffective! I'll try one day I get a car that need it
The idea maybe is right to do but giving cold brake cleaner or kerosene or what ever on hot engine is copletly dump. You could demage engine block/cylinder wals by that and your work says by by for engine swap 😆
@trapps75 80 percent self taught. I take courses if need be. Commercial account I have offer random class for technicians, we go through complex case studies
To all the wingers and moaners , complaining this and that about this guys methods. Be thankful he took the time to show you this! If you dont like it, then pi55 off somewhere else. Thanks for the vid bud😊
I have not done this in a car engine, but if you spray BBQ grill cleaner into the cylinder, it removes carbon buildup really fast. 50 years ago I tried using a quart of Rislone in an old Chevy 283 V8 engine with lifter noise. It wasn't very long and the lifter noise stopped. The stuff had the consistency of water and you added it to the oil 100 miles before an oil change. About five years later, I started putting ATF in with the oil change, and it cleaned up old engines nicely. Been doing it ever since. ATF is a high detergent engine oil, needed to keep transmission passages clean and not harmful to gaskets and seals.
Does it loosen up sticky rings?
@@Priority57 I do not know what would happen if one were to let the cleaner soak the carbon on the ring lands. I have never tried it. I suppose it is possible, but one also would worry about ring lubrication for the first few minutes?
Dude that eats up aluminum fast
@@chriscalderin6677what eats up aluminum fast?
@@samgrieg grill cleaner and oven cleaner
When you were cleaning the plug recess on number 1 and you used compressed air to blast it out, the smoke in the crank case blew out of the breather pipe @ 8:14 . I thought that you had already taken the plug out and that was identifying the cause of your blow by. But when I went back and had another look, I realised the plug was still in. So how was the compressed air getting into the crank case when the plug was still in ?
Maybe the cover gasket was leaking ?
Regarding oil changes: I sometimes add a little Marvel Mystery oil to my oil when I change the oil, or just prior to an oil change to keep from building any sludge. Every year or two I do a double oil change on my Honda. I add motor flush to the oil & let idle for 5 minutes, then drain the oil. Then I add 2 quarts oil & fill the rest of the way with Marvel Mystery oil & install a new cheap oil filter & idle for 5 minutes. Lastly, I fill with a good synthetic oil & good oil filter & the oil is so clean that you need to look at the oil dipstick in the sun to see the oil level. My car currently has over 213,000 miles on it & the inside on the valve cover is as clean as when it was a new car.
Regarding frozen piston rings: I used Seafoam & Marvel Mystery oil on my 1991 Honda civic Si that was burning allot of oil @ 200,000 miles. At the time I was using 10-40 oil with Hyperlube, which it really thick & it still burned allot of oil. I took the spark plugs out and poured Seafoam into each cylinder & loosely put the spark plugs back & let it sit overnight. The next day I used a dowel to put into the cylinders through the spark plug hole to see how much liquid was in each cylinder. I then sucked the liquid out & bumped the starter with the sparkplugs out to move the pistons to a different position. I repeated this process for four days/nights using Seafoam two times & Marvel Mystery oil the last two times. When finished, I made sure all liquid was out of the cylinders & put the sparkplugs back in and started the car. Now I put 0-30 oil in car & it burns no oil. The rings must have been frozen with carbon, but they are fine now.
Using Marvel in fuel is good, however if your doing your oil changes 3-5k miles it’s definitely not needed it’s a waste
You're a good mechanic man! Just watched for fun, and I really enjoyed listening to your share your knowledge.
Thanks man!
A former co-worker of mine had a buddy that had a pickup that had a continual tick in the engine. He started putting a bottle of atf in place of a quart of oil when he changed the oil. After doing it several oil changes, the tick went away. He ultimately sold the pickup to another guy, who rebuilt the engine. That guy said when he pulled the pistons out, they were completely clean, and the valves had absolutely no buildup on them. The cam looked clean and the crankshaft was clean.
Bullshit
@@religion3166 No, no. I'm completely serious. He told me.:-)
Wonder why he rebuilt the engine then
@@JonnyAbs-0 The truck had several hundred thousand miles on it by that point, and the new owner decided to do a ring and gasket rebuild due to the miles.
Hello mate, can you please tell me how he used the atf?? Did he use it as a flush before the oil change, then drain the atf and then replace it with fresh oil? Thanks
This issue normally comes from lack of maintenance. The reason why I don't believe in long term oil changes.
Just had a friend with a Camaro with 80,000 miles and regular oil changes but there was sludge on the pistons when taken to the dealer. Drives only in the city. Don't understand why it happened?.
@@Na-nc6qt because he only drives in the city. That PCV gets hot but not hot enough. Carbon only sticks between like a 30°F window. Idk the actual temps but it's like 190° to 220° or something but highways gets rid of that because you're working the car a little harder in a sweet spot it actually enjoys being in. It keeps the pistons hot, but not outrageous, and it's low heat cycle rate.
The Camaros were known to have PCV issues in the 5th gen V6 or V8
@@jacobwebb8818bingo! Short trips are horrific for modern engines
@@Na-nc6qtDefine regular oil change. How often did he change it?
Agreed. Oil changes every 100,000 km, whether it needs it or not.
Acetone and synthetic transmission fluid is excellent to use on rusted bolts . It is mixed 1 to 1 parts of each. It must be shaken each time it is used. I think it works better than Kroyl myself.
I used to make a great gun cleaner with your formula plus lanolin, 3 equal parts of each.
@@skipcallaham1517 Sounds like Ed's Red! 👍
@@Sylvan_dB Now that you mention it, I believe that was the name of the recipe to try to mimic it. I can't remember where I red it though.
If i mix atf and accetone can I damage engine if I leave for a day? Engine didnt work 3 years and I can turn like for a 90 degresse , but not whole turn
Tried it before, didn't work as well as PB blaster
Oil in the spark plug wells can often mean the lower tube seal failed and people incorrectly blame the top seals. I’ve read that some tubes are removable but for the 3.6 GM said they’re pressed in and would require a new cylinder head. After a thorough cleaning, I applied a green, penetrating grade threadlocker.
It appears that Nissan didn’t have direct injection so my experience may not apply but I’ve found heavily carboned intake valve ports caused from PCV vapors depositing oil and repeatedly baking layer upon layer under those carbon chunks flake off, fouling spark plugs and causing leaking between the valve seat and faces, which means lost compression on the affected cylinder(s) and possibly an engine misfire, most noticeable at idle.
Those carbon chunks probably aren’t great for the cylinder wall but I suppose they could make it past the exhaust valves as well, and possibly not great for the catalytic converter(s) either.
Long story short, after a thorough clean-out and just luckily getting the idle smoothed out, I sent my in-law down the road but the ‘12 Impala 3.6 died on the freeway (after 200 miles) with a MAF sensor code and bogged down with every press of the pedal.
The MAF sensor was oily (from back-pressure) and I recalled an exhaust rattle that went away shortly after starting that I was told began years ago after an accident.
Unbolting the front of the rear catalytic converter revealed a massive blockage that had to come from upstream of there so I removed the crossover pipe from the front and rear exhaust manifolds. Both had their own catalytic converters and the one near the firewall had a darker center in the honeycomb structure and maybe a few plugged holes but merely blowing air into it really brought the chucks down. Eventually that firewall cat turned into nothing but a bypass pipe and the blockage and years-old exhaust rattle was gone so I sent my broke in-law down the road.
I warned the oxygen sensor may set a code but 6 tanks of gas and still no light.
Ya know, those carbon and sludge problems wouldn’t exist if people just changed their oil with full synthetic oil and never dinosaur oil or synthetic blends, plus they could extend the time between changes from 3K miles to 5K miles. The best full synthetic oils and filters say 20K miles, which is why I’ve switched to ‘em (only a couple bucks more than SuperTech) but I’m sticking with 5K mile oil changes.
Is it a good idea to soak piston and vaccum them and run aggressively on highway before oil change?
@@religion3166 Some engines demand a certain viscosity and straying too far could be detrimental but I’m just a guy that wrenches on my own vehicles. As for the soak, aside from the danger of hydrolock, I imagine the liquid would trickle past the rings and dilute the oil (hopefully nothing that could cause cavitation) but another concern would be evacuation past the exhaust valves and having a negative effect on the catalytic converter. (like gasoline from a constant engine misfire)
There are quite a few YT videos where a guy had an oil consumption issue and he was convinced it was a stuck oil ring so he tried all sorts of things (multiple videos) one sort of like your question. Sometimes the instant remedies fail so honing the cylinders and installing a new set of rings is needed.
I watch Taryl Dactal (Taryl fixes all channel) for repair info on small engines, grass cutters and that type of equipment. You are very good go to for questions for car engines, BTW, Taryl wears "hillbilly teeth" during his video's, however keep doing what your doing. I have learned some really good info. Thanks for the videos.
Articulate and knowledgeable. Thank you for sharing your time, skills and knowledge with us.
There's a TSB for excessive oil consumption for the QR motors, has to do with the catalytic converter media breaking down and getting sucked back into the cylinders. Just search QR25 Precat Failure. Nissan had a recall on it at one point.
I had two of these one both fixed but my second one was fixed at a higher mileage way to late and started burning oil and eventually blew a head gasket to the point I couldn't rev the motor because the oil was so thick by the time I got to my destination on a long trip.
Everything I've owned required text book knowledge to keep it running............... It's good to watch someone else wrenching because it gives you a different way to think about a problem.
So what was the end result? Did this free up the rings and lessen the oil consumption?
can also drain oil... fill w all ATF..... idle for 20-30mins. drain/replace
Not even done watching this and I'm gonna comment already. I literally just finshed making a video like this on a Yamaha Waverunner an hour ago. Then came inside the house to try and watch a pro mechanic on how they "free up" stuck rings. I have my number 3 cylinder giving low compression. Inspection camera on side view shows all valves look to be closing when blipping the starter, all or at least most of the way if not all the way. That sent me to shooting a couple squirts of oil down hole 3. Compression came up from 55psi to about 180psi (normal is 210 to 220). All the other 3 are at 220'ish. Never heard of throwing ATF into the oil to free up rings from below but sure beats pulling the motor to do something similar in a jar. I was thinking about adding a bottle of seafoam to the top of cylinder 3 at dead bottom, wait a couple days and see how much seeps down into the oil. Never thought of using brake cleaner but surely that is a great place for me to start...then I'll waste out a can of seafoam to have that drain down next then do the oil change needed to see if she frees up the rings. At least one of those should show signs of my compression coming up before having to pull another motor. Thanks for the idea! I don't think I have paint thinner but will do the brake cleaner/paint thinner mixture if I do. Thanks for posting this! EDIT ADDITION: Man, great idea on watching the smoke to find the offending leaking cylinder!
Just happened to notice when you blew compressed air into number one oil vapor came out of the PCV The lower spark plug tube seal it's definitely out
So this is usually due to lack of maintenance except for a couple toyota engines. The 2azfe being one. They ran a really really thin oil ring and literally clogged up after 30k miles and then started using oil. Right now my toyota rav4, uses 1qt ever full tank of gas.. and I've had it since it was new. I changed oil every 3k miles (damn the recommended 5k miles) and I always ran Rotella full synthetic. Which I've been able to prove has the least amount of breakdown back in 2004. (They could have changed their ingredients since then, idk) I need to try that test again and send the vials off of different brands to the same lab since it's still around.
Anyways I'm gonna try this on the rav4.
You changed oil every 3k in your 2azfe engine, and it still burns 1 qt for every fill up? So, frequent oil changes didn't prevent the issue?
piston soak with Berryman's b12
Facts! 👍🏽
If the problem with this car is truly carbon and sludge build up in the ring grooves, then using solvent based cleaners in the oil will definitely work, but it needs to be the right cleaners and the process may take some time like a few weeks and maybe an oil change or two. I have found Liquid Wrench to be excellent for this job, I have used a quart in a 5 1/2 quart capacity oil volume. If there is an acute problem such as a noise or drastic oil consumption there can be noticeable improvement pretty quick, but it will take continued treatment over some time to really do a good clean up because the area gummed up is in a hard to reach location for the oil and by its nature the flushing/cleaning process is pretty slow. Put the cleaner in and drive the car, you need the hours of time and the stop start cycles. This condition is due to poor maintenance but was once also because of poorly formulated motor oils, back in the early days. For the past 30 years the oils have upgraded to the point that now the chief reason for gumming up the works in a motor is just too long between oil changes, and factory recommended is TOO long.
just pouring anything in the cylinder isn't going to do any good if the sludge is accumulated at TDC; you need to splash the liquid around with an air line like I did. So that it disolves the sludge; I put some brake cleaner and I also used transmission fluid at different times and splashed it around and leave it to soak for an hour and I could see the sludge sliding down the cylinder walls.Even if it doesn't cure the ring problem I think that having clean cylinders are important, because dirty cylinders and valves can cause misfires too.
Dirty pistons can cause hot spots.
that seems like pretty good compression for an engine that's burning oil from stuck piston rings
Install oil catch cans on both pcv and breather hoses might stop oil vapour sucked in combustion chamber.. can reduce oil consumption.. might free up stuck rings as well.. can reduce carbon build up too...
Air / oil separator NOT a catch can !
Ok..Lack of maintenance..Last Resort...Do a hot oil and filter change..Then add Classic Engine Restorer with CSL (Copper/ Silver / Lead) Use the 6 cylinder Can for added product..If it helps..It can support rings/ Valve guides/Bearings...Last effort before rebuild/Low mileage engine swap.....
Pretty good reviews for the product.
To remove sludge : put a little diesel fuel in each cylinder then change oil and ad in a half a bottle of marval mystrey oil in crank case . then run it under normal conditions .😊
I'll do the diesel next.... just need a donor car!
Regular oil doesn't actually clean anything out. The detergents are to prevent sludge buildup, not actually clean anything... solvents are poor lubricators... if you want to fix compression due to stuck rings you need to use a solvent.
What solvent would you use that is a good lubricator?
Thanks for your efforts. Good vid. If you talked too much i didn't catch it because all you said was insightful and not redundant.
Bro the way you do things is exactly how everybody should be doing. By far the best mechanic I’ve ever met yet ! I know cars but the way you do things I’m learning a lot from just one video . Definitely Subscribed!! God bless you and the work you do . Everything you say makes sense. Most important you don’t waste people’s time . And btw the reason Brake cleaner is so powerful is because it contains acetone in it. Paint thinner is just as strong and good for cleaning converters
I want to know how this hand is so smart!
I have the oil burning 2.4L Toyota engine in my 2006 Scion tC due to poor piston design. I did an engine soak by pouring in Marvel Mystery Oil in the cylinders and letting it soak while occasionally agitating the engine. This worked pretty good the first time. I later added brake cleaner and a bit of WD-40 to the cylinders. While I did cut oil consumption by about 50% it still burns oil. i am not sure what I will try next. Maybe this is all I can do. I am not a mechanic.
Berryman B12
I have your engine with only 45 k miles. Any advice to prevent perhaps using mmo?
@@goldengirls0125 stay on top of oil changes
@@goldengirls0125 change oil every 3k miles. Be religious about it.
Why not another round of brake cleaner w/ wd40?
Liquid wrench is as good as it gets...
But I've boiled pistons and rings on the stove and still couldn't get them off....
I like the noise the funnel makes when you throw in the transmission oil
Seafoam the shit out of it then add some to the tank. Get out on the highway and drive it. Not driving your car on the highway gets build up inside the engine.
This guy is down to earth!
Is this method ok for diesel engines
I’m rebuilding the engine in my 2001 Deville. It had rings that would damn near fall off the pistons. There is nothing you can do to an engine with bad rings.
Not only oil scraper rings are clogged but the piston oil return hole are carbonized as well. Carbon turns into crystalized molecules and it s almost impossible to remove it without rebuilding the engine.
Using brake cleaner (Acetone) would clean the top of cylinders effeciently but would damage the cylinder walls coating especially alusil/nikasil bores.
Paint thinner will definitely damage seals.
An engine that has VVT and solenoids cannot benefit from fluid soak. Solenoids will be clogged and hydraulic oil tiny passages will be clogged. FATALITY.
Using high synthetic 5W30FE with high TBN like Liqui Moly special Tec B FE 5w30 which has a tbn of 11.7 every 500k miles can defenitely help dislodge the oil drain holes carbon and piston rings gunk.
Dang it. Lol. What was the result? Did it free the rings?
Hi I wonder what you poured in the plugs with that 5litre container and how long you waited before replacing the plugs.
Did you notice that when you blew air into the #1 plug hole (b4 plug removal) that the pcv hose blew smoke out. This tells me the plug well seal between the valve cover and head is bad.
Or the piston rings... Which were the primary focus
@@partsshooter no, you had not pulled the plug out yet. That's what caught my attention.
@@padraicmcguire108 I'm confused, your initial comment referred to "blew air into #1 plug hole" maybe I misunderstood something
@@padraicmcguire108 I noticed that too but I just assumed, because the ring was stuck in its contracted state, that the compressed air blowing inside was passing the piston ring and pushing vapor out of the PCV.
But no, you’re absolutely right. The spark plug was still installed when he used the compressed air.
@@partsshooter I saw that too. In that moment you were cleaning the hole before removing the spark plug. You applied air bec your pump failed, and then u can see the smoke coming from the pvc pipe when the plug was still installed.
is that a 2.5? rings are effed they are all overgapped
I had a nissan with a failed cat get clogged and the car would barely run! ran fine with 02 sensor removed
why did you not do a wet compression test too?
IMHO to avoid sticking piston ring in the 1st place is to use good engine cleaners while using the car.
Never had pistons sticking in my family cars , I always insisted on using cleaners.
Exactly I use sea-foam
What cleaners you use?
@@Priority57 Additives that go in fuel, mainly had diesel cara but I use it in gas too.
Also did an engine clean but my engine didn't need it that much.
Some cars need early oil changes.
Man I just got called dumb for pouring thinner in my gas tank to clean the injectors, maybe the get dammaged and the pump, but its worth the risk if im going to change that anyway.
In cylinder’s to clean the sludge, its a masterpiece.
For someone who says their not gonna talk that much he sure does talk ALOT
I know... People love it and hate it😎
I love these type of videos but lacquer thinner might be a little hard on your seals
Always use mineral spirits where they say to use thinner.
well would that be highly flammable... Oh and no result ??
precat on these engines breaks up and gets sucked back up into the cyls chewing up the walls
My car BMW Serie1 116d 2012 190k km. It is burning oil 800g every 800km.
There is no liking
There is no smoke at all, black o blue
There is no oil in the exhausted
Engine behave pretty normal
what Flippen is?
sludge will plug the pcv valve also
The cylinder which had the plug, which has oil in the plug, has a piston ring problem.!
Ant additive recommended for prevention with that 4 cylinder problem engine i have with 45 k miles uses no oil but want to prevent?
Change oil every 5k
Very good video. I especially enjoyed the narration.
That’s a helluva smoke machine. 💨
A crappy one 😆 but it work
I have been seeing a lot of videos on that bg dynamic cleaner kit, i wonder would it work on this engine?
I have a Jeep Wrangler 4.0 l
There’s no visual oil leaking on the bottom of the oil pan nore in other visible area but I do be missing motor oil . About half a quart about a month that goes by . No smoke at the tail pipe and tail pipe smells like nothing . This has got me going crazy
Its burning it in higher revs.
Anyone notice when the compressed air was used, that smoke came out of the PCV hose?
Yes, I notice when editing
Other noticed also
Pepperidge Farms noticed. 8:15
Don't you have to make sure the Pistons ain't all the way to the top
What happened to the compression test ?
Part 2 in description
How'd it work out?
Well, after it left. It never came back lol. Check with me in a few months. I'll ask him when I get another vehicle from him
@@partsshooter right on. Thanks for sharing, man.
Does that suction tool come with a larger end? Asking for a friend 😂
Maybe... how much you willing to pay🤔 I'm sure my engineers can construct a suitable device😏
That's a hot engine- aren't you risking fire with that solvent?
No. There's no risk of fire. It's below it's flash point but at the boiling point
Chlorinated brake cleaner, or pure carbon tetrachloride would work best for carbon removal. Of the non chlorinated brake cleaners. 3M works far better than the rest of them.
I use 5% clorox in the oil and run it for 3k. Great additive and cleaner!
Berryman B12
💯
Most UA-cam hits for solution.
I wonder if kerosene would work?
Me too.... 🤔 logically gas would be better correct me if I'm wrong. I mean, if fuel can wash out lifters like on Chevy eco tech engines, it'll eat sludge??? - likely not 😆
Diesel reminds me of sea foam... I left it in jars with sludge and it was ineffective!
I'll try one day I get a car that need it
Did it work? Part 2.???
Part 2 in description
Wellll It's a Datsun which is an alternate spelling for Shite !
What did you expect ??
It proves that oil burning has not much to do with compression
Is that you contest most muscular
Yes. It's me
@@partsshooter hope your still working out good genetics
The idea maybe is right to do but giving cold brake cleaner or kerosene or what ever on hot engine is copletly dump.
You could demage engine block/cylinder wals by that and your work says by by for engine swap 😆
Do you still make x x videos
😆 🤣 big_daddyshaft on OF 😆 coming to a computer near you
BAE is strong here
J'ai utilisé du toralin anti carbone très efficace consommation d'huile réduite par 3
Gain de puissance du à une meilleure compression moteur je pense
I'm sorry but I was cringing when you used a power drill for the plugs.
That's why I use it! 😆
Egr cleaner works to.
he needs to rehearse what he will say and stop stammering
Good idea, I'll relay the message
Rude…
Self taught fixing cars or schooling
@trapps75 80 percent self taught. I take courses if need be. Commercial account I have offer random class for technicians, we go through complex case studies
Don’t pass 6k miles maintenance
I can agree to that!
I did consistent 5k oil changes on my KIA 2.4L and still got oil glutton.
@@bobreese4807 if it turbocharged normal
woah! wait, 8:20 plug isn't out but comp air blown into spark plug 'hole' and the pvc is blowing out smoke.......wtf ???
Either both intake or exhaust valves are open on the 2 cylinders allowing air to pass thru
Leaking valve cover would be my guess.
Talk too much!
Talk too much about what?
27:35 pretty slick idea there....
I like how you pronounce it both "ol'" and oil😆
Country lol