REBUILDING A YAMAHA YZF1000R THUNDERACE
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- Опубліковано 9 лип 2024
- #projectbike #motorcyclerestoration
Join me as I take on this ambitious task of rebuilding my very neglected Yamaha YZF1000R Thunderace!
Don't miss out on this ultimate restoration that may well inspire you!!
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Find me on
- / bikes_of_rye
- / bikesofrye
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Camera equipment
- gopro hero8 w/ media mod
- Sony ZV-E10 w/ Sigma 16mm lens - Авто та транспорт
Hey all thanks for tuning in for the latest project bike build! If you are wondering what has happened with the Blackbird that project is still underway and I will release a video once the bike is complete! Thanks for your patience!
Throttle cables are easier to re-attach while you have the carbs off the bike.
Been riding since the 80's
Had plenty of great bikes during that time. I still own and ride the Thunderace.
Great bike
Attach your cables to the carbs before refitting them, the slides in the cabs will operate with the engine running (constant vacuum carbs) you will probably see cv stamped on the carb bodies.
Really admire your taking on these projects, and demonstrating what can be done without the luxury of a garage full of tools and years of experience. Keep the films coming sir❤
Absolutely!
My other top tip when removing the engine is, before you undo any bolts, take the weight on the trolley jack / block of wood, .. That way, the bolts are not under tension when you try and undo them and are easier to undo. Plus, the engine doesn't drop when you take the last one out, as it's already supported. Good luck with your donor bike / frame
Got to watch this, I have a very, very neglected Thundercat lying outside, so I've subbed...lol.
Thanks for the sub! And good luck
I'm glad to see you doing the right thing and changing that frame.
If you get yourself a Breaker bar it will give you more torque on stubborn nuts and bolts and you won't risk your ratchet getting damaged,which can also be dangerous.
These bikes, they look the same as a bike which has done 200.000km through all seasons. But havent barely ridden. Good job for restoring it mate!
I have read that they apparently are prone to bad rusting. This bike has been kept in shelter since it has been off the road too
Carb slides - the vacuum will cause them to move and meter the fuel. A perforated rubber would stop them sliding and cause rough running - easy to diagnose when looking at them with the bike running.
Nice one thanks for sharing
Nice job, I enjoy your projects and it's great that you show everything, including the snags, as it's good for others to see and will help those new to stripping bikes down. A piece of advice I will offer is that it's best to use a T bar rather than risk breaking a ratchet on very tight, stubborn bolts with liberal use of release oil, wd40 etc, then switch to a ratchet once it's moving.
Oil in same drain pan as coolant, that will make recycling fun!
Fair play buddy. 👏🏻👏🏻
Omg, you love to test yourself don't you. It's great watching someone else struggling with bikes. I could never do UA-cam. To many swear words and walking away lol. Great work buddy. Let me know next time your up super sausage. Be great to meet ya 👍🏼
It’s when you put it back together only to find you have a load of nuts and bolts left
As someone who just started working on bikes in the last decade. Invest a motorcycle lift, they’re not that expensive and will save your back later on in life. I got sick of working on the floor hence why I want one!
What happened to the Honda rebuild ?
yea was wondering that myself
I also have a very neglected thunderace project, not confident enough to record it, but hopefully it will join yours at some point as a restored bike :)
I hope so!!
Jesus, who put those bolts on? Eddie Hall! 😂
Neglected is an understatement. I had one of those from 96 to 99 and it pains me to see how badly it was treated.
I admire your determination and your gf is a keeper ! 🏍️🇮🇲👏
When totally stripping a bike keep it in as big bits as you can so you get down the bare frame as fast as possible. Take wheels off, remove whole swing arm assembly, remove yokes with forks still in them, remove engine ect. Then strip the sub assemblies as you go through them.
That way your undoing the least amount to strip it fully.
Plus get breaker bars, don’t use ratchet head to undo tight bolts.
Great advice! I thought this myself as I rebuild the bike onto the replacement frame
@@BikesofRye Yes, you then strip each sub assembly to rebuild. It also keeps all related parts in big bits so less chance of loosing individual parts.
@@BikesofRyeyou've chosen to dump the frame then mate ?
add some breaker bar to your tools
Re your broken exhaust stud, roast it as much as you can with a good blow lamp, clamp on a set of vice grips as hard shut your hand power can clamp them and believe it or not, rather than loosening it immediately, actually tighten by 1/8th to one quarter a turn, then loosen it one turn out, 1/2 turn in, one turn out, 1/2 turn in until you know that it's feeling good and will confidently extract normally. I've never had an issue with this method.
Good content. Enjoyed it.
I'm probably way behind, but for releasing stuck bolts, I always use Plusgas , the night before if possible, a couple of doses. "Plus gas English Abrasives 802-10 Plusgas Aerosol 400ml"
Will look into that product thanks for sharing!. I find WD40 penetrant very useful at the moment. It surprised me how very good it is and how quickly it gets to work
@@BikesofRye Hats off to you tho mate. I'd never attempt what you are doing, and especially on the drive. 😀😀
To get the broken exhaust stud out, wind a nut on, wind another on top, and tighten together in opposite directions. Then just wind it out using the lower nut.
Appreciated!
Heat will help you too. A heatgun or torchgun works great for that.
Impressively calm! There would have been so much swearing in my house when the choke cable would have been still attached.
As others have said, you would probably have been better removing the carbs from the engine beforehand. This will be how you can reattach the cables on rebuild too
after your battle with the rear axle I think you can skip the gym for a night - good work and vid
All those gym workouts all for this one moment!! 🤣
Gun show moment. Mrs not allowed to watch.
looking forward to the next one - great stuff
i had a thunderace as a company bike, your one seems to have a kph speedo if a grey import it may only have 100hp or even less, i have a few rebuilds under my belt if you strip the motor have plenty of sealable bags and write whats in them on the bags if you need a manual buy a haynes or similar as factory manuals assume a high level of knowledge, good luck
Had to subscribe, I’m working on a thunderace restoration too….I started body work on mine before I tackle engine aspects. Look forward to seeing your build.
Thanks for the sub and good luck!
A metal pipe over the end of the ratchet gives a lot more leverage to undo bolts or even a large ring spanner on the end. I also stand on the racket to undo tight wheel spindles. No strength needed just weight putting 1 foot on and pressing down. Much easier. 😁 Looking forward to the next Instalment and what you do about that huge dent in the frame which is a real shame. 😢
Really bad advice,a workmate of mine actually injured himself only last week using a bit of pipe on an Allen Key. Tools are designed to be used without extra leverage,everything you've suggested is either dangerous,liable to break something or both.
@@dave8204 Or he's not safe to go near tools.
This will be mint when it’s done 😁
Great job!😊
i keep some cardboard boxes and flatten them and lay the cardboard under the bike when working on it. the cardboard absorbs the spilt fluid rather than staining the floor.
Amazing as usual 😜
Loving your vlogs
You need longer handled tools mate for more leverage or torque. The rear axel nut would have been easier to undone. Great start otherwise. Good luck!
For removing stubborn bolts, you need a breaker bar AND a 'cheater bar'. A cheater can be any bit of steel pipe that fits over the breaker. You are creating a fulcrum that multiples the force at the end of your tool. If a bolt won't move with a breaker, cheater and a good quality socket on the end, yer screwed. From there you will have to use use heat along with some cunning. (A six point socket is advised for highly torqued bolts.) Steel bolts that are torqued into aluminum alloy can be notoriously difficult to remove due to a chemical reaction between the two types of metal. Assembly can be done by preparing all fasters with a preparation applied to the threads.The type to use depends on the application. Where heat is a factor, a tube of thread preparation containing a copper compound works well. (Use gloves cuz it's poisonous.)
Hi just found your channel thanks really enjoy the content, I’ve restored 2 bikes, did one in my living room, I would suggest when you refit the engine it’s easier to lower the frame onto the engine, if that’s possible with the bike
For next time, set of stepladders o er the bike, then some ratchet straps around front of bike, then once engine is free you can lift the bike up!
Stepladders either side of the bike, some wood and some straps! You may have just helped me figure out how I put it back together
Specifications
Engine: water cooled DOHC 20-valve in-line four
Displacement: 1002cc
Horsepower: 145bhp @ 10,000 rpm
Carburettors: 4 x 38mm Mikuni CV
Gear box: Five Speed
Frame: Aluminium-Alloy beam
Wheelbase: 56.3 ins
Weight: 436lbs dry
Top Speed: 170mph
This was such an under rated bike in its day, it was a replacement for the fzr 1000 exup and was lighter than the fzr with basically the same engine but a more modern fairing, although it has to be said the thunderace name and the stupid aero super sport graphic is cringe worthy now. The thing was the motorcycling press set it up to compete with the fireblade and it was never going to beat that on a track or tt course, or even on a twisty back road but that was missing the point, as a fast but fairly comfortable every day sports bike it was great, with good brakes, decent suspension and an engine so torquey they didn't bother giving it a 6th gear. Yamaha must have already had the r1 well in development by the time the thunderace came out in 1996 so I don't think they ever saw it as a fireblade rival, that was for the r1 to put in its place, see the thunderace for what it is and it makes a lot more sense. So many have ended up scrapped that its become a very rare sight so it will be good if you get that one back together and in original condition. I like that you admit you don't know what you're doing but have a crack at it anyway, good on you. You'll love it once its on the road.
With you on the name thing. I'm convinced the 600 Thundercat would have sold loads more without that stupid name on the fairing, not least as it was also the name of characters from the He Man kids tv series. Made as much sense as if Honda had called the CBR 600 the Womble.
Well done! Hope you remember where everything goes? 😂
That's the fun part 😅
It's easier to disconnect the throttle cables at the grip end and the clamp on that end of the cables should be in two halves and come off. Put some heat on that broken stud and gently work it back and forward with some grips. Still got plenty of stud to get hold of. A breaker bar is a good investment for all those really tight fastners. Looking forward to next installment.
Wicked mate im enjoying this just as much as you 😊 you’re proper achieving here 👏🏻👏🏻👏🏻
Yeah hard work but honestly so rewarding!!
@@BikesofRye keep grinding bro you’re doing GREAT!!
Love this channel please keep it up
Thanks, will do!
You need to buy yourself a good metric thread cleaner kit and a bench grinder with wire wheel 👍🏻
I'm gonna be watching this closely. Funnily enough, my little brother gave me his neglected ThunderAce 2 weeks ago, but it's a lot worse off than yours. Been sitting in a field for the last 2 years and thieves have stolen a lot off of it. I got a. Long road ahead of me, but I'm considering doing a build series too. Are you just restoring this one out planning to customize it?
The good part for me is at last I know mine ran when it was parked 2 years ago lol so hopefully it's not seized up
If you're ever dropping an engine out again, get a wider cup to go on the trolley jack.
You'll have more stability & less chance of damaging the underneath of the engige. 👍
The carb slides don't open because it's done by vacuum.... All to do with the rubber diaphragm under the top cap of the carbs
Youll have to take the carbs off, if its sat for a while then theyll definitely need cleaning. Then you can reattach the cables easier
Did I see correctly? Is the speedo in Kilometres? With just some red stickers indicating miles... haha classic!
Loved it mate, good on ya
I had a YZF600 Thundercat which is the smaller version of this, not exactly the same but very very similar.... I get goosebumps watching you do this to a bike that's been in your family.... wow
Go on son!!! Cheering for ya
I stripped down my 99 t reg hayabusa and refurbished it during the 1st lockdown and also owned a thunder ace back in the day so let me know if you need and advise or help mate 👍
I’m not a Yamaha NOR a retro sport bike fan… but THAT is a great looking bike.
Loosen engine bolts only before removal. Makes the last ones easier.
Getting it out is easy, getting it back in is another task entirely 😂
When you undo the wheel nut make your life easier and use your foot with your weight pushing down will undo it
🏍👍
So you wana replace the frame.. right??
So why not strip the whole bike and lift the frame off the engine at the end?
If you had taken off the carbs first, ud have gotten access to them easier from the bottom end. All a learning experience, I remember it well. Lol.
🤙💪
Put throttle cable on before you seat the carbs
at 9;32 that bolt has a pinch bolt holding it
Easier to remove or refit the throttle cable with the carbs out of their stubs.
Looks tricky but done loads and it’s not that bad. (98 R1’s, FZS1000’s etc)
1st came the YZF 1000 then the 1998 YZF R1.
It's easily forgotten
I'm also at the same time...
Why don't you use a power bar instead of trying to break your rachet
The rear axle bolt is supposed to be torqued up to 150nm!! Very tight
Wow I just checked you're correct... that is ridiculous! The BB I am building is 93nm
Funder Race?
Maybe I should rename this bike with stickers
So that's what the hole was for. Engine mount...
This is going to be interesting to watch...
I'm certainly not any form of mechanic, but I have to give you two tips so far:
1/ When trying to move a stiff bolt, it's easier to use bodyweight by pressing downwards than muscle power in a different direction (but you do have to be careful about not punching the ground!).
2/ You should have taken the carbs off before removing the engine..! :D
But, so far so good!
Alternate between loosening / tightening bolt. Saves mullering the head in one direction when extremely tight and wont move
Boss
Can throw a review in on a cheap impact driver whilst at it? 🎉 Even a cheap one will get you 100nm of torque. That'll solve all your access issues and rattle the nuts loose.
Cheap tools are never a good idea if you're tackling something like this,there's a reason mechanics spend a lot of money on Snap On and the like. Cheap tools can be dangerous or fail quickly.
Get some bags and label them for all the bits.
Any nuts and bolts I remove I re-insert them to keep track of what goes where
And… taking the bike apart is the easy bit..
For sure have learnt that rebuilding the Honda Blackbird
get a Haynes manual
Take throtte off with carbs off in future
WD40 is neither use nor ornament on seized exhaust nuts/bolts.
Where's the black bird
Coming soon