An Update On The Green Machine!
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- Опубліковано 2 лис 2024
- Trying to fix some brake issues, and i fail! This one has me stumped!! Any ideas??
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On my rig I’m using ifs hubs with my stock locks, 98’ rotors, and 94’ four piston calipers. Also dust shield eliminators with a set of rock rings. I upgraded the master cylinder and brake booster as well, these two parts came from a stock V6 89’-95’ truck. For the rear I have a complete rear locker axle out of a 04’ Tacoma with large rear drums, dialed brake pressure in with a proportioning valve.
I agree with Joe. Load proportioning valve is a bugger on these trucks. I disconnected from axle and strapped that end to the bottom of the bed. Rear brakes full power all the time! Bleed that proportioning valve first before wheel cylinders. Good luck
Keep building and I will definitely keep watching.
Sounds like a plan! 👌
Not only u man we will keep watching 😁
Your videos are amazing. I have a 92 3.0 that was my mother's truck she bought when I was a kid, it had 10k miles on it when she got it, it was the newest vehicle we had ever owned at the time, and was how I learned how to drive a manual. It's coming up on ten years now that she's been gone losing her fight with cancer. I refuse to sell the truck even having numerous offers and it still runs like it did day one. I love your transformation videos and would love to do something like that with mine. Anyways keep up the good work and I look forward to more of your videos in the future.
Awesome! Got to love these trucks! Thank you!!
Load sensing proportioning valve. I disconnected mine and put an aftermarket proportioning valve under the hood right off of my master cylinder. The brake circuit on that truck has 2 lines on the right frame rail. One of them is a return line. I deleted the return. If you google it you will find some articles on how to do it.
Did you block off the return with plugs?
@@jasminroux9031 I just re-used the brake line fitting after I welded up the hole in the end of it.
If nothing else works, try adjusting the pushrod between the booster and MC. You may need the special tool to measure the adjustment. Also, be careful, adjusting it too far out could blow the seals in the MC.
Trouble shooting sucks sometimes, but you'll figure it out, hang in there!
Did you check the push rod adjustment in the booster to master also the rear load proportional valve in the diff
X2
Congratulations on your 55+k subscribers! Couldn’t happen to a better fabricator/mechanic/builder.
Thank you!!!! 👍
Put some stock size tires on it and see if it works better. Larger tires are harder to stop.
Check the load sensing proportioning valve on the rear axle. This controls brake bias to the rear axle. The valve is mounted on the chassis rail with an adjustable rod linking it to the rear differential. It may be out of adjustment due to suspension changes or damage. The valve could also be worn out or have trapped air in the valve. Most have a bleeder on the side of the valve.
I maxed that out to get the rears full juice!
ua-cam.com/video/MKM_VMqDpBk/v-deo.html
I agree James P. It happened to my tacoma truck before. After I adjusted the load sensing proportion valve the truck stop right away. You can test by pulling the hand brake with the brake pedal down on a stop. If the truck stop better then that's the problem.
Congratulations on 50K subscribers, makes me feel good to be one of them. Asusual your work is clean and professional. As a youngster I used to do mechanical jobs on my Morris Oxford and Toyota in 🇯🇲. Kinda miss it too, but will when I return from the 🇬🇧.
I'm having the same issue with my 73 Bronco. One day I had solid brakes and horrible brakes the next. I put 4 wheel discs on it and put the whole thing together myself. The brake booster holds vacuum, the master cylinder is solid and I have no leaks. I'm pulling my hair out! The only thing I have left to check is the line-lock I put on it. Good luck, fingers crossed for both of us!
Try adding a residual valve to it, its a one way to prevent he fluid from going back up the front.
I have the same issue with my Hilux.
I upgraded to the 1" mastercylinder and booster.
While driving at highway speeds the brakes are great but at slow speeds like you were doing in the video, they are about the same.
I replaced the rotors and pads, bled the whole system including a flush.
Same result.
My thoughts were leaning towards the check valve on the vacuum line.
I have not checked the flexible brake hoses.
Maybe they swell under pressure.
On my 60 series Cruiser it made a huge difference when I replaced the rubber hoses.
Pedal is more firm.
Thanks for the vids.
Keep up the good work
Thanks!!!
I have bypassed the rear proportioning valve on both my 85 4runner and my 2000 tacoma. I've also had to gravity bleed the rear brake lines on both tucks after loosing enough brake fluid in the system while replacing parts.
Just open the rear bleeder on the longest line and let it bleed it with gravity for a few minutes, then do the other side on the rear. Then bleed everything once again.
Make sure you have the front and rear brake lines hooked up to the right ports (not reversed) on the master...
ua-cam.com/video/MKM_VMqDpBk/v-deo.html
This is crazy! I hope you find a solution soon, as brakes can be tricky; when you least expect it too!
I just had this problem and I had put a new booster for mine and you might wanna check the adjustment rod in the booster. It ended up helping mine
Some lifted trucks have a big air lock problem, had to lift one up to near 45 degrees once to get all the air out, because air keeps rising to the highest point.
Damn! I can't believe that I missed this! As far back as 79, you have to remove the hubs and those 2 nuts to take off the rotors. I got the same hub socket from DOWNEY off road in CA. You don't need a C clamp to push the pistons with a screw driver. Congratulations on hitting 50k. I got to watch your channel Explode. I've been here sins you were at 4.6K. You are a great guy and talented. Your endorsement of that brake bleeder is better than if they were giving you support. This happened to me and it was the load propottioning valve got stuck and there was a hole in the line. It took a while to find out what was going on. It's the Tinker toy looking arm on the rear axle on the drivers side. I don't know if your truck uses it. ✌.
Yeah I have the lspv, seems to be working! I’m going to try calipers next! And thank you!!
@@austinniemelano problem! I'm stoked about the you hitting the 50k subscribers. Congratulations!
Is the rod on the brake booster adjusted correctly where it goes into the master cylinder?
Had a similar issue on my 87 k5, I ended up doing a gravity bleed and it took care of it just keep the master filled
I literally just sold my 85 yota pick up which makes me sad but watching your videos makes it feel like I still have it lol keep them coming bro!
ua-cam.com/video/MKM_VMqDpBk/v-deo.html
WHY would anybody sell their Toyota?
To buy another Toyota!!
@Mort Goldman Domjan
Still got my three!
WT actual F***???😮
@@nonsequitur807 worsts decision ever
a buddy had a 87 Toyota pickup and his truck had the same problem. He replaced the little plastic check value in the vacuum line going to the booster and that fixed his problem
That was after we replaced every piece of the braking system
If rebuilding the calipers does not fix the issue check to see if there is a proportioning valve near the frame. That can cause issues if it is stuck. Not sure if it even has one, but if so change it.
Your work is just impeccable
Have to do this on mine so thanks for the info 👍
Sometimes adjusting the rear brakes can make a huge difference, 99 4runner needs drums adjusted when brakes feel weak, even with no pedal fade. Still have original drum brakes believe it or not, good video.
Please check the rubber pipes that go from the metal pipes to the calipers. They normally are threaded in the inside of the tubing, after some years and use, the threading can loosen up thus clogging the tiny hole that goes into the caliper joint. I have a Nissan Patrol GU-Y61 it caused me low powered brakes and serious brake jams for a long time, just a pipe swap and TA-DA!
You can run ifs hubs with manual locks and ditch the rotors bolting to the hubs all together. Solid axle guys been doing this for a while, might want to see if you can run this set up. Changing my brakes is remove the tire, unbolt the caliper, slide off the rotor if need be to resurface or replace, install rotor, install new pads, bolt on caliper and tire and I’m done.
Does those older yota have a adjustment rod on the inside cab? I know the 1 gen tundra my dad own was like that. Brakes all the way down before it will catch. After owning that truck for more than 20 years. I finally check and adjust last year and it made a world of difference.
Is the break weakness due to the larger tires? I’ve updated mine to larger tires and I can feel the effect on the stopping power (Nissan pickup)
Is there a proportioning valve or tee where the front line splits into 2 lines that could be bad? Or hidden line damage/ blockage that lets you bleed the brakes and not let you give full send on the pedal?
We had a whole brake master "lot" , that had been engineered wrong. If i remember correctly the holes weren't right on the piston. It was shooting against the wall. Hope that helps.
Adjust your rears to match the new front beefy pads in front
25:20 get paid for that! Free tools! Best yota vids hands down! Kill it brother!
Thanks man!
Just changed mine on my 1990. The caliper's were sticking bad. Changed those also.
Maybe!
Hey brother another helpful video my Xterra has the same type of breaks in the front. I’m gonna use this method to do my rotors. As far as the master cylinder and system goes, maybe bad master, those types are really touchy. when I did mine I went through two brand new masters before I took it to mechanic with a 3rd. They got it and I didn’t even ask how! Good job on the channel though you deserve it.
Thanks man!
Your parts diagnosing lol, love channel 👍keeping looking at front since that's 70% braking. To bad you can't measure hydraulic pressure at calipers ? Maybe its time to make a tool
Those calipers looked like they need replacement or rebuild. I'm due on my 91' 4Runner. Replaced calipers on my son's S10, huge difference!!
Great job, quality content as always. I need to replace the studs on the hub that hold the wheels in place, as I have broken 2. Is the disassembly and reassembly process the same on a factory solid front axle? 1994 toyota pickup, thanks in advance
Did you remove the Proportioning valve ?
Did u check the proportional valve or load sensing valve,,,,,,usually these loader trucks have load sensing valve fitted some where in the center of ladder frame.....and another thing is to check is the brake rubber hoses...... if u r using older one then they might swellup once u apply brakes......
same thing what I thought ..maybe this is problem you happen right now..
Man, what a pain to remove the rotors. I complain about having to remove my spacers to get my rotors off. LOL Cant wait to see the next project!
ua-cam.com/video/MKM_VMqDpBk/v-deo.html
Brake those new pads and rotors in!!! Great content hope you find that issue
I know on my 93 F-250 after I did my emergency brake cables mine did that. I didn’t have my back brakes adjusted right. Once I adjusted them right she stops like she should. Just a thought.
THIS CHANNEL IS M NEW OBSESSION. I reaaaaaly want to buy a 90s pickup and...both of these are my dream
With a Lexus 5.0 V8 swap, it would make an amazing off road machine. There are some conversions already done too.
check the loading valve for the rear brakes
Pull the rubber brake lines off and replace with stainless braid when you rebuild your calipers.
They are absolutely nasty once the inner threads start to clog the pipes.
You should me bumpers for 2002 Tacoma’s been really diggin how yours came out
You are really creative and I follow your channel as it is both interesting and fun.
Thank you!!
Toyota front calipers are notorious for siezing but you didn't seem to have a problem getting them to retract.
It's the caliper, it's a pretty common problem that any water intrusion into the fluid causes the bottom piston to seize. I've never needed a c-clamp to push my caliper piston back in, just a very gentle push with a flat-blade screw driver should do it.
PS since you will have to do all the bleeding again if you replace the caliper check your hoses for any signs of cracking while you are at it.
@@Bill-v650 I’ll check or replace the lines and rebuild the calipers! Hope that will fix it
I Love the green truck , looks amazing
Thank you!!
Check the line size might be to small. And that loop by the master might cause an air pocket. could be calliper pistons.
I bought a brand new master put it on bleed out the system and still had the same problem. The new master I bought was bad as well so changing it for the third time fixed the problem.
I know something about bleeding.... if you have ABS (I didn't understand well) you should have contact on when doing this because some valve is then open. I hope I help... 🤔
Congratulations from Argentina!
can you make a POV Drive in the Red truck and the green machine? it would be really cool to see that
Thank you for the discount and the great content! Just got my AVR hat and t-shirt on the way! 😎
Awesome thank you!!!
14:21 curious if you wire wheeled the mating surface here.
The calipers are probably sticking. If cars just sit for a while they tend so seize up. Sometimes it’s enough push them in and out a few times with a big pipe clamps (knipex is my personal favorite for this) you will feel them getting easier to push in as you go on. Otherwise you have to take them apart and scrape the pistons a bit with a scotch pad if there is any light rust and put them back together with new seals.
I’m going to check the calipers next!
Great job on the 50k subscriber! Awesome Job Austin.
Thank you! 👍
Good truck to start off for a investment
Check ur rubber lines if they are not blowing up when u press the pedal
Check your flexible pipes as could be failed inside and bulging under pressure but look fine with no pressure
Hey Austin, that´s not the correct way to grease up the bearings, you have to put grease in your hand then grab the bearing with the other, now you just drag the bearing on the hand with grease (with the wider side facing to hand with the grease), the thing is to make the grease to come out from the thinner side of the bearing, it is more important to grease the interior of the bearing then the exterior.
These hilux brakes are just gutless in general, don’t keep throwing precious money and time at it. Try braided brake lines as opposed to rubber because they don’t swell under pressure and therefore more direct braking force. Other than that, it’s as good as it gets. Unless you do a disc rear conversion
Yep Toyota’s go forever and take forever to stop!!!
Is the push rod adjusted correctly in the master cylinder?
Very frustrating and I suspect that the flexible brake hoses in the front are collapsed internally. I had not experienced this before and once I reached the point where you are I was clued in by a master Toyota tech. Replaced both of them, problem solved.
You are doing a great job.
Thank you!
Favourite channel on UA-cam 🙌🏼🔥
Thank you!!!
You should do a meetup this summer for camping n wheeling!
Congratulations Austin !!👍
Thanks!!
Congrats on 50K! What are the odds of seeing a first Gen 4Runner? Always loved them! 👍🏼
Someday in the future possibly! I’ve never built one actually
Really want to see you more on Devin channel , fab him up with that blue evo you are the Fab god
ua-cam.com/video/MKM_VMqDpBk/v-deo.html
AVR MILITARY LOGOS on the green machine! 🔥build.
ua-cam.com/video/MKM_VMqDpBk/v-deo.html
Excellent work all around 👏👍👌
I doubt this is the root cause of your issue but you've gone up in tire size quite a lot (~15%) so the moment arm to the brake rotor is different. It means you need more caliper pressure, and thus more pad force and more rotor torque to achieve the same braking force at the road interface. Without changing the master, calipers or booster it means more brake pedal force is required. To compensate, I recommend you replace the factory single diaphragm booster with a dual diaphragm booster from a mid/late 1990's T100. Thankfully there's a ton of continuity in Toyota design, so it bolts right in. Might need to adjust the booster rod length, and don't forget to set tolerances in the linkage per spec. The brake pedal will feel "normal" again but pressures throughout the braking system will go up. NBD. Braking performance will be returned, can lock up the fronts on dry pavement again, let alone gravel roads!
Given the age of the calipers and brake lines, the advice to rebuild/replace the calipers, master and flex lines is a good idea. Cheap insurance on a 30yr old system. Did you set the pedal position, free play and such when you swapped masters and boosters? Usually need some plastigauge to set booster to master tolerance. Given the severity of your issues I suspect you have a bad master...
BTW, that brake bleeder system you have is pretty cool but it uses vacuum at the wheels to draw the fluid from the reservoir. I do the following to pressure bleed the brake system: remove the central dust cover on the master reservoir cap to expose the small pressure equalization vent. Fill the master with fluid. Take your (cleaned out and dry) hand pump weed sprayer (or your air compressor, regulated down to a couple psi) and push the nozzle to cover the air vent hole. Gently pressurize the master reservoir which forces the new fluid thru the lines and out a bleed nipple.
Don’t ever plan on having manual hubs :-) but great how to if I do -
Congrats on the success!
Should you have lubed those pins tho?
On my 81 4x4 I have hated the brakes since the day I got it, so what I’ve done so far is upgraded to the 1 inch brake master cylinder New brake lines ventilated V6 brakes up front all new rear drum brakes. I’m still not very happy with the breaking performance so I’m going to be putting the calipers I had upfront before I did the V6 brake upgrade and I’m going to mount them in the rear with some sort of proportioning valve and we’ll see if four wheel disc brakes are any better of course I’ll have to do one of those driveshaft E brake conversion’s but those seem pretty cool anyways I guess my point is the brakes on these trucks kind of suck are your red truck’s brakes better than the green trucks? They are the same brakes and same master cylinder and same booster is that right?
Same master and boost on the red truck and those work amazing!!
@@austinniemela well my mission for better brakes continues as well so I’ll be watching to see what you figure out for the green truck... because the red truck has bigger tires anyways so if you like the brake feel in there it should be even better on the green truck you would think 🤔 with essentially the same set up... probably not anything todo with the lspv because most of your breaking power comes from the front brakes but I don’t know 100% how that thing functions I’ve read some discrepancies. Probably not the new brake master cylinder right out of the box could it be an improperly set piston or whatever the rod is that comes out of the brake booster? It would kind of suck if they were some kind of buildup of debris in the brake lines but if they bleed easily it’s probably not that either. Probably the calipers then.
I know it sounds backwards, but a smaller bore master cylinder will actually increase braking power. i'd say go back to a 7/8" bore. Go to Banks Power UA-cam page and watch their video on wilwood brakes posted about a week ago. They talk about the master cylinder bore size for braking power.
If you take the brake fluid bottle turn in outside down on top of master cylinder fill tank you don't have to monitor so much it will auto fill the master cylinder
Ever consider powder coating the calipers? Once side looks good and passenger side looks rusty. I guess I'll be waiting for that video :)... Yeah, i'm thinking the calipers are bad/seized not applying pressure evenly on all 4 pistons. Do the pads wear out evenly?
Truck is looking amazing, I'd think about parting with my 2015 for that thing. 😂 Love the channel.
I’ll trade ya haha
Hell yes. They just awesome trucks to tweak and restore but that's it. They can't compare with today's tech and comfort. Plus little to know safety features
@@wenzenuf221 x-) oh I agree. But as an (amateur) mechanic I always have a sense of nostalgia for older models and the relative simplicity of them... especially one as beautifully restored as this one. I like the look of them too.
@@ShawDAMAN for sure.
Could be the brake oil is leaking into the servo .I had this problem once.
Super noob question: How do you know what torque to use at each location? I have a 1994 Toyota Pickup that I am learning how to work on. Is there a secret mechanics' manual? I've started with an oil change and am working towards more complicated maintenance. Everyone starts somewhere.
HEY do you have a cut file for the flatbed on the red truck? Wouldnt mind building one for my 85
No unfortunately I dont
@@austinniemela gayyyy I built a red 85 tube bed once I think it got sent up your way I keep waiting for it to pop up in your driveway😂
Try bleeding and/or adjusting the load prop valve?
I did!!
I had always heard that on Toyota’s it’s really worth it to just use OEM parts for the masters as well as clutch slave. Maybe you’ve got a bad MC (for the soft pedal) and also a worn/ineffective booster making it seem like the brakes don’t do much. That dual diaphragm booster you have should make it pretty easy to lock up the brakes on gravel and was a pretty huge upgrade over the single diaphragm used in the 2nd gen Toyota.
J'adore vos vidéos TOYOTA , un grand merci de France
ua-cam.com/video/MKM_VMqDpBk/v-deo.html
100% the line from the front of the cilinder is the problem. The loop is trapping air. The fluid velocity is to low to flush the air. Flip the loop horizontal or change the line.
The top of the master cylinder should be the highest point so air can escape. The same way you have a right or left side caliper. The bleeder valve is always on top. Good luck, great videos.
@@anthonyspera1981 all true. The only thing you forget to mention is the way air can, and probably will, get stuck when you rollercoaster your brake lines.
In automovive you're never sure. So i need to rectify myself by saying 100%.
the abs will do nothing because my dad did same thing on his 97 and 2004 Toyota hilux and btw great job bro 👍👍👍💚
Thanks!!
Mate love this Rig !!!!
Thanks!
FYI passengers side is the right side. You started on the wrong side. Otherwise good job. I can’t believe the master cylinder is so small with 4 piston calipers.
Naughty naughty chrome van on impacts really don't work as well as the chrome moly impact sockets ;P The harbor freight ones work really good and are cheap as dirt
I like your content and modifications..congrats for 55k subs~~~
Excellent videos, you have a new subscriber. Question, which torque wrench do you recommend?, thanks.
Did you delete the come washers?
Do you k ow if the tires with on a Toyota Tacoma 2004