Wow these two have got to be some of the best auto troubleshooting vids in general I've ever seen. It's a shame part 3 didn't get made. I certainly need it!
I like the way you explain the logic behind this challenge. Soon I will go back outside and figure out why my tractor does not start when it's hot. i will let you know what I discover.... Thanks.
Dev JB I hey, just want to thank you for you’re attempt at finishing this guy’s homework. lol... Seriously thought it’s frustrating too spend time watching through two videos to end up here!.. Maybe you could help me out? I have a 2001 Audi A4q 2.8 and have had this problem for the past couple weeks, I turn the key and here the click under the car (like the battery is very low on V.) but the battery is fine 12.4+. The thing is if I keep turning the key eventually the starter will ‘connect’ and turn the motor over and the car starts up no problem.... not sure if you know much about German vehicles, but they are a pain in the ass too get too many of the parts (the starter being one of them). I changed the ignition switch when this first started happening (I read that that was one of the possible culprits of this “no crank”) with no luck. Since the starter dose eventually turn the motor over every time I need to drive (side note: it has been taking more ‘key turns’ before it starts up) does this sound like it needs a new starter to you? Thanks for any advise!
Dev JB it is actually an automatic, I did think when this first started that it might be the switch that tells the computer that IT is in park, but I read to try and start it in neutral and if the same this happens then it’s not that switch. It’s hard to tell if the fuel pump it running, I have never really heard it from the driver’s seat before, even when the car was running like new. Also the fact that it isn’t cranking over at all; just the click from the starter solenoid (I think, the same click that you hear when the battery is too low to crank the engine over but there is enough juice to run the radio and everything elts.
Dev JB nice, thanks a lot! There is relatively low number of diy vids on YT about the older Audi which is a shame cause if they have been maintained for (at least most) of there life by Audi like mine was they are and can drive beautifully! IMO... mine just rolled over 150k and was a garage kept California car that was fully serviced at Audi dealer tell about 120-130k then given too original owner sister then to me about a year and a half ago. I’m going to take it out to my parents property and check/clean up all the point you mentioned this weekend. I was told the neutral safety switch can be checked by putting it in neutral (I guess usually when it starts to go it will do This in park but you can usually still start it in neutral?) That link in the next comment didn’t work? I’ll try and find the vid from the bit of the link that is there but if you can send it again that would be awesome! Thanks a lot for you’re info/ideas when I get her straightened out I’ll let you know !
Dan, You really are a great teacher. Could you show in part three how you would use the set of meter jumper leads that you made from your book for testing these circuits.
extra to the wonderful video, heads up, to ya'all, there are 2 or more relay for protection and function, the cranking motor requires 300 amps to work, this cannot be passed through the dash board ignition switch without fire- burn,- trouble ( much less 10 times day for drivability of your car) so a starter solenoid is used to take that 300 amp, across it's contacts (big heavy metal stuff) , the solenoid required 10-20 amp to switch on, this can be supplied by the ignition switch, easily, with safety, ( as in my 1970 car) but the start relay( small black cube) only require 35ma or 0.35 amp, and can switch-control 30amp, thus the ignition switch ( now using only 0.35amp), will last for ever with so little wear, And other parts of the car- like gear box NUETRAL or PARK switch, or ignition immobilizers, can be included into circuit of the starter relay- usually in the 35ma wire from the KEY-per video,( at that level of current these switches would best be called sensors that collectively , control the black cube box), most of the wiring is in the engine bay, with ONE wire from the dashboard, Sweet, ( love the sketching )
Dan, I was starting to follow your video but have decided to do otherwise. Where is part 3 and so on in this series? In four years since you wrote part 1 and part 2 there has been no further training on this subject or there is no obvious way to find the next videos in this topic. You claim to be an educator and it would appear so by the content of your videos but I think it is disingenuous a claim when you don't follow up with the conclusions to this series in a timely manner and that causes me to question whether I should invest my time and money any further in your lectures and products.
I could watch you all day long. I have got to get ready for work now though. Keep up the good stuff andd thanks from all of us guys that want to learn. I'll be back! I just ordered one of your LoadPro tools last night and I am just a backyard mechanic but you convinced me there are much smarter ways to diagnose problems. PS I love your sketch diagrams, you break things down to simplicity with them, but I have to ask you if you have stock in the Sharpie company. LOL
Hi Dan Thanks for all the wonderful videos , I am learning tons , I bought the book and load pro , what page or part of the FET would pick up after this video , instead of wanting a 3rd video , I would like to learn it from the book , Thanks
I quit videos after Jeff Whisenhand at Powerprobe paid off people to bad-mouth and attack me online. I had better Read things to do than set myself up for assholes to spit on.
In part one you showed a hot wire coming directly from the battery to the "cranking motor" Ok really confused now because you sent the hot wire from the battery to the "starter" solenoid contacts.
+Dick A-DO I'm not sure. I do these things and often get side-tracked by other responsibilities. I'm hoping to raise enough $$$ to let me focus on the videos entirely - but it's not an easy thing to do to ask for financial help.
+Daniel Sullivan - Your videos are amazing and your invention, the LOADpro, is genius. You are a gift to do-it-yourself'ers. I wanted to say, your video on Volts, Ohms and Amps, really helped me understand this concept fully. I showed my sons your Fractions video for mechanics and their kids, and it really seemed to help them both. I emailed that link to my oldest sons math teacher. I just wish I would have had the oppurtunity too see that video when I was that age. I really hope for the best of luck and your success at doing this full time. Thank you for taking the time to reply!
I got a harley with a slow crank starter sometimes it's works and sometime it's just too slow to turn the engine on, I've already check and even replace the ground cables but the problems still occurs, what can possibly happened? Was the starter need to be replace?
Quick question put a new starter on cranks fine at first but let it run for 30 mins turn off the try to re crank and its like really slow crank and battery cables get hot especially neg cable and won't crank. Hours later will crank easily but repeats scenario
Make sure all of the cables are spotlessly clean. Any green means replace. Check all connections. Any corrosion sufficient to do this is invisible. Just because you can't see it doesn't mean it isn't there.
I have the same problem to I have replaced the neg and positive and still the same thing slow crank or when the neg cable gets hot it won't start. Could there be a short somewhere?
Eric Dibner from tst technicians service training we are looking for new teachers. I have talked about you for some time now I would love to have you part of our team of trainers how can I contact you
I need some help people my 99 kia sephia drags when I start it n backfires a lil bit to but it never did it till my radiator broke n it got hot for a minute n e body can help me out
Wow these two have got to be some of the best auto troubleshooting vids in general I've ever seen. It's a shame part 3 didn't get made. I certainly need it!
IKR
Hey! Quick question. where is the 3rd video.......???
I like the way you explain the logic behind this challenge. Soon I will go back outside and figure out why my tractor does not start when it's hot. i will let you know what I discover.... Thanks.
Part 3 would be really nice to see.....
Dude... Finish the story.. I was so invested in the show..
Had to sue Snap-on for patent infringement.
@@bivideo7 did it go In your favor? Great videos by the way.
Great Teacher!! Thank you for donating your time
This was like getting to the last part of great novel only to find out the final chapter has been ripped out! Noooooooo!!!!
I was following part #1 and part #2 of your excellent tutorial when it came to an abrupt end?? Please finish your lesson.
Dev JB I hey, just want to thank you for you’re attempt at finishing this guy’s homework. lol...
Seriously thought it’s frustrating too spend time watching through two videos to end up here!..
Maybe you could help me out? I have a 2001 Audi A4q 2.8 and have had this problem for the past couple weeks, I turn the key and here the click under the car (like the battery is very low on V.) but the battery is fine 12.4+. The thing is if I keep turning the key eventually the starter will ‘connect’ and turn the motor over and the car starts up no problem.... not sure if you know much about German vehicles, but they are a pain in the ass too get too many of the parts (the starter being one of them). I changed the ignition switch when this first started happening (I read that that was one of the possible culprits of this “no crank”) with no luck. Since the starter dose eventually turn the motor over every time I need to drive (side note: it has been taking more ‘key turns’ before it starts up) does this sound like it needs a new starter to you?
Thanks for any advise!
Dev JB it is actually an automatic, I did think when this first started that it might be the switch that tells the computer that IT is in park, but I read to try and start it in neutral and if the same this happens then it’s not that switch.
It’s hard to tell if the fuel pump it running, I have never really heard it from the driver’s seat before, even when the car was running like new. Also the fact that it isn’t cranking over at all; just the click from the starter solenoid (I think, the same click that you hear when the battery is too low to crank the engine over but there is enough juice to run the radio and everything elts.
Dev JB nice, thanks a lot! There is relatively low number of diy vids on YT about the older Audi which is a shame cause if they have been maintained for (at least most) of there life by Audi like mine was they are and can drive beautifully! IMO... mine just rolled over 150k and was a garage kept California car that was fully serviced at Audi dealer tell about 120-130k then given too original owner sister then to me about a year and a half ago. I’m going to take it out to my parents property and check/clean up all the point you mentioned this weekend. I was told the neutral safety switch can be checked by putting it in neutral (I guess usually when it starts to go it will do This in park but you can usually still start it in neutral?)
That link in the next comment didn’t work? I’ll try and find the vid from the bit of the link that is there but if you can send it again that would be awesome!
Thanks a lot for you’re info/ideas when I get her straightened out I’ll let you know !
Thanks for your time and sharing your Knowledge!! Happy Christmas
How great teacher you are thank you so much!
Part 3 needs to cover mechanical/hydrostatic lock-up. Thanks! Good show!
Kickass video. Thank you
Hi Dan,hope you are well.Any new videos in the pipe line please??
what happened to part 3?? I was just starting to absorb this...please with a part 3!
Dan, You really are a great teacher. Could you show in part three how you would use the set of meter jumper leads that you made from your book for testing these circuits.
I can't stop calling it a starter either.
Dan, you're awesome! Please, we need the part 3 video.
OMG ! wheres part 3!!!
extra to the wonderful video, heads up, to ya'all, there are 2 or more relay for protection and function, the cranking motor requires 300 amps to work, this cannot be passed through the dash board ignition switch without fire- burn,- trouble ( much less 10 times day for drivability of your car) so a starter solenoid is used to take that 300 amp, across it's contacts (big heavy metal stuff) , the solenoid required 10-20 amp to switch on, this can be supplied by the ignition switch, easily, with safety, ( as in my 1970 car) but the start relay( small black cube) only require 35ma or 0.35 amp, and can switch-control 30amp, thus the ignition switch ( now using only 0.35amp), will last for ever with so little wear, And other parts of the car- like gear box NUETRAL or PARK switch, or ignition immobilizers, can be included into circuit of the starter relay- usually in the 35ma wire from the KEY-per video,( at that level of current these switches would best be called sensors that collectively , control the black cube box), most of the wiring is in the engine bay, with ONE wire from the dashboard, Sweet, ( love the sketching )
Outstanding & thank you, Sir.
Dan, I was starting to follow your video but have decided to do otherwise. Where is part 3 and so on in this series?
In four years since you wrote part 1 and part 2 there has been no further training on this subject or there is no obvious way to find the next videos in this topic.
You claim to be an educator and it would appear so by the content of your videos but I think it is disingenuous a claim when you don't follow up with the conclusions to this series in a timely manner and that causes me to question whether I should invest my time and money any further in your lectures and products.
There should definitely have a part 3
Where is part 3 ???????????????????????
Daniel......just when you got to the 'really' good part the video finished...where is part 3??
I could watch you all day long. I have got to get ready for work now though. Keep up the good stuff andd thanks from all of us guys that want to learn. I'll be back! I just ordered one of your LoadPro tools last night and I am just a backyard mechanic but you convinced me there are much smarter ways to diagnose problems. PS I love your sketch diagrams, you break things down to simplicity with them, but I have to ask you if you have stock in the Sharpie company. LOL
Hi Dan Thanks for all the wonderful videos , I am learning tons , I bought the book and load pro , what page or part of the FET would pick up after this video , instead of wanting a 3rd video , I would like to learn it from the book , Thanks
How would you diagnose whether a slow crank is caused by a bad starter or an external load like a hydraulic valve open on a backhoe?
The slowest part is waiting for part3.
SlackersIndustry and still waiting....
@@rhdtv2002
And waiting...........
And waiting ......
Thanks for your time
Thanks
Dan, how can you test the starter if it has suspect short windings, ie blowing the B+ fuse
so yeah that part 3 lol, like really? you know i bought the loadpro with the book, maybe show some love back?
Was there ever a Part 3 only I can’t find it and this lesson is so useful
Me neither. Let me know if you find it.
So no part 3?
Part 3 is in the twilight zone!
Part 3 Mr Sullivan? I’ve got to get this POS fixed by tomorrow so I can go to work?!?!?
I’m with everyone else where’s the continuation and you never said anything about a slow crank (causes)
It's been 2 years and no part 3
so where is part 3 of , No Crank - Slow Crank
I quit videos after Jeff Whisenhand at Powerprobe paid off people to bad-mouth and attack me online. I had better Read things to do than set myself up for assholes to spit on.
@@bivideo7 Oh sorry to hear that , I thought you were explaining things very well
In part one you showed a hot wire coming directly from the battery to the "cranking motor" Ok really confused now because you sent the hot wire from the battery to the "starter" solenoid contacts.
good start and vid is appreciated. tks
Are you guys really serious there's no need for part 3 this shows it all open your guys's brain cells and pay attention it's pretty simple
Does being an ass and showing you have shit for brains by opening your mouth and being mean make you feel better?
Thank you for the amazing videos .. do you think putting a fuse on the coil of the Start Relay usefull?????? yah a fuse on the contacts makes sence.
Part 3????
is there a part 3?
+Dick A-DO I'm not sure. I do these things and often get side-tracked by other responsibilities. I'm hoping to raise enough $$$ to let me focus on the videos entirely - but it's not an easy thing to do to ask for financial help.
+Daniel Sullivan - Your videos are amazing and your invention, the LOADpro, is genius. You are a gift to do-it-yourself'ers. I wanted to say, your video on Volts, Ohms and Amps, really helped me understand this concept fully. I showed my sons your Fractions video for mechanics and their kids, and it really seemed to help them both. I emailed that link to my oldest sons math teacher. I just wish I would have had the oppurtunity too see that video when I was that age. I really hope for the best of luck and your success at doing this full time. Thank you for taking the time to reply!
Part 3 please
part 3 plz
OMG .... where is part three?
Where’s part 3? What’s tease
I got a harley with a slow crank starter sometimes it's works and sometime it's just too slow to turn the engine on, I've already check and even replace the ground cables but the problems still occurs, what can possibly happened? Was the starter need to be replace?
Positive cables? Any signs of heat?
@@bivideo7I already replace the positive too and the connections were good, Is it possible if the armature are worn causing a slow crank?
@@TheSkylark16 Did you do a voltage drop across the starter (ACROSS - NOT at the starter) during crank?
@@bivideo7 yes I did, the drop is only 0.2 - 0.4volts, I almost give up now
May God bless you very good explication
oh come on Dude, U really gunna leave it like this.
When part 3?????
Quick question put a new starter on cranks fine at first but let it run for 30 mins turn off the try to re crank and its like really slow crank and battery cables get hot especially neg cable and won't crank. Hours later will crank easily but repeats scenario
Make sure all of the cables are spotlessly clean. Any green means replace. Check all connections. Any corrosion sufficient to do this is invisible. Just because you can't see it doesn't mean it isn't there.
I have the same problem to I have replaced the neg and positive and still the same thing slow
crank or when the neg cable gets hot it won't start. Could there be a short somewhere?
TheJman972 There's a point where - after you rule all things "starter" - you have to consider and engine problem.
"How to become an Electrical Artistician in under 20 minutes."
Hi please we need part 3
Best regards jo
Eric Dibner from tst technicians
service training we are looking for new teachers. I have talked about you for some time now I would love to have you part of our team of trainers how can I contact you
+Euro Auto, try direct messaging via UA-cam.
thanks dan
where's part 3?!
Good video, but where's number 3
hi wonderful lecture thank you
The mlst important part is the 3 part..-and its missing..
Would be good if you finished par...
such a cliffhanger.
I need some help people my 99 kia sephia drags when I start it n backfires a lil bit to but it never did it till my radiator broke n it got hot for a minute n e body can help me out
It didn't get hot "for a minute".
Hey slow cranking change your ground wires in car that's it
No, that's not it, and the video isn't about fixing it - it's about understanding it.
Its like a college class..
ua-cam.com/video/Mru8BbTGDwM/v-deo.html would be the next video
8
when you say cranking motor is that distributor
No. Cranking motor is the "starter" -
so whats the cause of slow cranking ?
Daniel Sullivan where is part 3
Where’s part 3?