Nice and clear 👍👍 I’m trying to diagnose a slow/no start and sometimes starts up with ease on my Yamaha Zuma. Battery checks out fine and jumping off my truck has the same issues
I miss your content. I hope you're doing well. I have one of your DMM tech kit with book. I've learned a lot from you, especially the thought process. Would love to see more electrical diag videos.
I've been better. Quite a bit of weight on my shoulders from a number of problems. I'd like to do more, but I'm spending all of my time trying to earn a living and pay off debt after the patent fight with Snap-on. Still can't believe they were so insensitive to a guy who'd been a customer since 1981...
@@bivideo7 That isn't a surprise. Big business practices. I'm so very disappointed by that. You seem to me to be a genuine good person. Keep your head up and you will make it through this.
The small wires corrode first @ the battery, the most. 70 percent of that 80 you provide in the video. I frequent the junkyard and have seen thousands of batteries wired in many different configurations. if resistance is the enemy, corrosion is its financier. I took your class back in 2001.. you are a fundamental instiller. I credit your influence as one of my foundation stones of learning. thanks again.
Nice video. The reason for a bigger relay switch is because the relay on the cranking motor requires more current to run that motor. The connection between the motor relay and the cranking motor and to battery are thicker. You always need thicker cable to carry high current. This is why you always check the connection in this area for issues. You don't want exposed wires or loose connections at all. Anything that has moving parts, would eventually fail.
Good Day ryan here I have a question the main power cable from the batry to the fuese box what effect wil it have f I make it thiker wil it flow better or more power to my entire electrical circuit
Dear Mr. Sullivan, thanks for the great information. Have just purchased a Loadpro and would like to ask how I can test the cranking motor on a Porsche 997 with slow crank. Do I have to remove the cables from the starter to test if there is any resistance in the cables or can I do the test with cables attached? Help much appreciated for an interested amateur like me.
Hey, R. Muckle! When you say "Vehemently disagree that 80% of the time it's wiring!! Almost ALWAYS it's corrosion and or dirty battery terminals" you are agreeing that is a CABLE ISS:UE unless you mean a dead battery! Anyway, Wow! Thank you, Dan! Very detailed explanation, you are a great teacher, really! Best breakdown of the whole deal I have ever seen.
I tried to program my key for my 4gen odyssey but failed due to this gen can only be done in dealership with special tool. Then days later my odyssey quit on me while cruising in town. Now it's towed and I manually charged up the battery to around 12.8v and tried to crank. But I only can hear is click, a sound like a breathe in click and that's it. No crank at all. Sir, do you think it's related to the relay or fuse or anything else. The van was running like a champ before it stopped. Any ideas that you can share? Thank you and hope you will read the comments too!!
Can't answer unless we know you didn't mess anything up during the failed reprogramming attempt. Can only know for sure if that is correct. Have to rule it out. "What's cheap is expensive...."
i have a ford 3cyl diesel tractor just the other day it decided not to start ,,, i put a new starter on it and a new battery ..and i bypassed the wiring after no success and just started a simple hot wire right off the starter ,,new battery and starter as i mentioned and it cranks so slow it would never start and it doesnt ,, been working on it for a week and right at where i started ,,, tractor never ever failed to start on me before ,, now its useless ....any ideas as i said bypassed all the wiring just to try ,,and nothing ,,, its a 4000 series tractor industrial with 6 foot bucket ...
Essential to make sure ALL wiring and connections are clean. Need voltage drop o starter and battery voltage during crank. Should be the same and above 9.5V.
well i just wrote a 3 page essay on what i found that fixed my problem ,, i clicked on something and everything went away so im not going to write all that crap over ,,im 72 years old and dont have time for that ,, people after everything i did and replaced it was my positive cable ,, thats all im going to say about that ...its back to normal ...
😆 tell this to the millions of parts distributors across the world literally every “cranking motor” I’ve ever replaced said “starter” on the box and on the sticker with a Part number just another term is all it is wise guy. Lmao.
I have a not start and no crank only my 2002 Ford Explorer sport trac 4wd but I connected a wire from the battery to the starter and when it makes contact with the negative it turns on so the starter shouldn’t be the problem nor the motor so could it be the cable from the battery be bad or the ignition switch ?
Not sure what's touching what, but diagnose electrical problems by asking "what's right", not "what's wrong". Rule out everything that's working. What's left is the problem...
My vehicle slow cranks only after I use it. I replaced the starter and still same result. I let the vehicle sit for about an hour after use and it starts fine. Any advice?
All wrenches apply torque, but I'll bet you still think you have a "torque wrench" in your box. A relay and a solenoid are different - right? I'll bet you even use water to explain electricity - which is pointless and wrong. I'll stick to what I do best, so you do the same.
By referring us to a multimeter you have saved many hours and $!. Very basic and common sense for those aren't able to understand. A well thought out diagnosis video. WWG1WGA!!! 🇺🇸🇳🇫🇺🇸
@@tristanvandever9411 Semper fidelis means "always faithful". When we face Jesus at the second coming all will have the glory of having their very own conversation with Christ. Amen. Best wishes.
Love the art... keeps things clear (even if it takes awhile...). But I'm getting thrown off by the mixing of solenoid, relay, switch. All "switches" but solenoid and relay are different pieces of kit and function in slightly different ways. Thanks for doing this!
Help. My miata one day stalled out when I put the clutch in on deceleration, but I was able to bump start it back to power, however it started making knocking sounds and had no power at all and eventually I stopped and wasn't able to bump start it again and it would crank really slowly but it wasn't battery because I had replaced the alternator 6 months ago and also jumped the car and tried cranking it and it still would turn over ridiculously slowly. I also heard a bit of knocking at around 3k rpm a few days prior but it went away as the RPMs increased. Is this piston slap? Bent valves? Broken oil pump? Bent valves?
Hey Dan, I have two questions. Are in Canada, and do have a brother named Micheal who is an eye doctor? Because I have a snowbird customer in Az from Canada that could be your brother....just thinking small world and all.
I've got both problems. Cranks once, that's it. After that, turn the key and no crank. New battery, full charge. After crank once, have to charge battery to get it to crank once again. UPDATE 5/30/18 - checked every circuit for parasitic draw. nothing. turns out it was the alarm system. if we don't use the alarm, the battery stays charged and the car turns over and starts with no effort.
I need some help... I have a 69 C10 and I go and start her up and doesn't crank over. I turn the ignition again to no avail and when I attempt to pull out the key it's still cranking without the key in the ignition. Battery then drains after five or so minutes. Can you help me find the culprit here not really a car guy. Bad switch? Bad starter? Bad relay? Alternator? Thanks,Joe
Yep probably should of watched this earlier bc my car has a slow crank when it sits for more then couple of hours. But when I drive it and restart it say like 15 mins it starts up fine. So I went to advance Auto parts to run a test on alternator and the guy said it's my starter and that my battery was full power. So just got my new starter put in and still did a slow crank after it sat for couple of hrs . Any ideas of what it could be?? I thought it was a fuel line problem from the beginning bc it starts fine if it's been on and I restart it with in 45 mins.
Andrew Lee Your battery may not be holding a charge. Adavance auto parts tested your battery after you drove there, giving alternator time to charge battery. Check voltage after car has sat for several hours.
hey, i have a 350sbc with headers and flowmaster exhaust. it starts fine when cold. cranks normally. but after its warmed up it wont start (heat soak i know) but i have a heat wrap around the starter. (starter is also a pmgr mini torque) i Just replaced the battery because it was old and needed changing anyways but i assumed it was the issue. im still not able to crank when cold. my grounds are good. only happens when hot. please help :/
Thanks SO much for wasting 5:52 of my life. That was as much of the stupidity as I coulds stand. Thanks for clarifying the ACTUAL name of the spinny thingy that spins the thingy that makes vroom vroom. Now I will sound like an actual mechanic when I got to the parts store to get a new canker....or cranker solenoid. Oh and by the way.....it's a cranker solenoid RELAY...technically speaking.
Cranking motor, FOH im gonna call the throttle pedal a “manual input lever for initiating an electrically powered,sensed and compensated air inlet valve”.
I just googled cranking motor for 1974 super beetle. The first result showed pictures of an actual engine motor. The rest of the results called it.....wait for it a STARTER. I have a 1974 VW beetle. the engine CRANKS over really slow sometimes. I wish someone would tell me how to fix it.
I have to vehemently disagree that 80% of the time it's wiring!! Almost ALWAYS it's corrosion and or dirty battery post/terminals....period. And a wee tip for newbs...if you find yourself stranded with no tools & (no, or dead slow crank)...lift the hood, place 2 hands pressure on each positive and negative battery posts, and apply a slight turn in either direction. OFTEN this will re-establish contact with the starter. When you get home, remove those terminal cables...clean them and apply a very small amount of dielectric grease.
Terminals and battery posts ARE wiring. If it isn't the actual motor, it's circuit. The circuit fails 80%. Thanks for agreeing, even if you weren't aware you do.
20-12-2018, yes lovely video, but, NOTHING_ NO CRANK, for me was fixed, by ( in the middle and the shopping centre cark park)(no previous problems) was fixed by removing the battery clamps, cleaning clamps and terminals with a KFC hand wipe, and WOW it started,
Dan, I was starting to follow your video but have decided to do otherwise. Where is part 3 and so on in this series? In four years since you wrote part 1 and part 2 there has been no further training on this subject or there is no obvious way to find the next videos in this topic. You claim to be an educator and it would appear so by the content of your videos but I think it is disingenuous a claim when you don't follow up with the conclusions to this series in a timely manner and that causes me to question whether I should invest my time and money any further in your lectures and products.
Brilliant explanation - thank you. So helpful to understand how this works
Nice and clear 👍👍
I’m trying to diagnose a slow/no start and sometimes starts up with ease on my Yamaha Zuma. Battery checks out fine and jumping off my truck has the same issues
I'm not a mechanic, but need to understand the concepts for work. This was very well done.
What do you do for work if you don't mind my asking
He minds bro😢
Thank you Pro-MECH this video was so hlpful.
This is a great way to show how to work on cars
Old School it's forever !!
Best illustration I've seen ! Thanks.
I miss your content. I hope you're doing well. I have one of your DMM tech kit with book. I've learned a lot from you, especially the thought process. Would love to see more electrical diag videos.
I've been better. Quite a bit of weight on my shoulders from a number of problems. I'd like to do more, but I'm spending all of my time trying to earn a living and pay off debt after the patent fight with Snap-on. Still can't believe they were so insensitive to a guy who'd been a customer since 1981...
@@bivideo7 That isn't a surprise. Big business practices. I'm so very disappointed by that. You seem to me to be a genuine good person. Keep your head up and you will make it through this.
Dude I love you hands . I have the same hands . But I just started wearing gloves after 30 years and what a difference .
Knows alot about cars and troubleshooting...but a good artist as well...watts life...Major!
I like these illustrations, very good learning tools. I hope you don't throw them away.
ua-cam.com/video/XQIbn27dOjE/v-deo.html 💐
Great video for the people trouble shooting and its easy to learn if you can see it instead of reading a manual with just a couple pictures
The small wires corrode first @ the battery, the most. 70 percent of that 80 you provide in the video. I frequent the junkyard and have seen thousands of batteries wired in many different configurations. if resistance is the enemy, corrosion is its financier. I took your class back in 2001.. you are a fundamental instiller. I credit your influence as one of my foundation stones of learning. thanks again.
@Benny Blanco huh
Nice video. The reason for a bigger relay switch is because the relay on the cranking motor requires more current to run that motor. The connection between the motor relay and the cranking motor and to battery are thicker. You always need thicker cable to carry high current. This is why you always check the connection in this area for issues. You don't want exposed wires or loose connections at all. Anything that has moving parts, would eventually fail.
Informative to those who don’t know engines. Thank god for the 10 second skip option
ua-cam.com/video/XQIbn27dOjE/v-deo.html 💐
You should be the next blues clues guy on tv lol thanks for the vid
Skip to 4:00 thats where the info starts
Bravo!!.. Great chunk of knowledge with a clear delivery... please continue making instructional videos.... the world needs you!
I second this comment. I love visual learning. Don't worry about it taking time, we have playback speed for that! 👌👍
Best illustrated digression ever
Best way to learn for myself anyways thanks
Excellent video
This guy is the epitome of what is a bad teacher
thanks for sharing!!! hopefully i can use this Knowledge to Crank my p30 1988 chevy 454!!!!
Good Day ryan here I have a question the main power cable from the batry to the fuese box what effect wil it have f I make it thiker wil it flow better or more power to my entire electrical circuit
so where is part 3 of , No Crank - Slow Crank
So genius, you’ll never know unless you know
ua-cam.com/video/XQIbn27dOjE/v-deo.html 💐
Look at this fellow's hands. Now THAT is a guy that turns wrenches!
Dear Mr. Sullivan, thanks for the great information. Have just purchased a Loadpro and would like to ask how I can test the cranking motor on a Porsche 997 with slow crank. Do I have to remove the cables from the starter to test if there is any resistance in the cables or can I do the test with cables attached? Help much appreciated for an interested amateur like me.
No, it's a spinning doohickey that spins the crankshaft whatchamacallit instead of using the crank handle thingamabob.
Hey, R. Muckle! When you say "Vehemently disagree that 80% of the time it's wiring!! Almost ALWAYS it's corrosion and or dirty battery terminals" you are agreeing that is a CABLE ISS:UE unless you mean a dead battery!
Anyway, Wow! Thank you, Dan! Very detailed explanation, you are a great teacher, really! Best breakdown of the whole deal I have ever seen.
I tried to program my key for my 4gen odyssey but failed due to this gen can only be done in dealership with special tool. Then days later my odyssey quit on me while cruising in town. Now it's towed and I manually charged up the battery to around 12.8v and tried to crank. But I only can hear is click, a sound like a breathe in click and that's it. No crank at all. Sir, do you think it's related to the relay or fuse or anything else. The van was running like a champ before it stopped. Any ideas that you can share? Thank you and hope you will read the comments too!!
Can't answer unless we know you didn't mess anything up during the failed reprogramming attempt. Can only know for sure if that is correct. Have to rule it out. "What's cheap is expensive...."
@@bivideo7 Thanks 😊
Y all the art class
i have a ford 3cyl diesel tractor just the other day it decided not to start ,,, i put a new starter on it and a new battery ..and i bypassed the wiring after no success and just started a simple hot wire right off the starter ,,new battery and starter as i mentioned and it cranks so slow it would never start and it doesnt ,, been working on it for a week and right at where i started ,,, tractor never ever failed to start on me before ,, now its useless ....any ideas as i said bypassed all the wiring just to try ,,and nothing ,,, its a 4000 series tractor industrial with 6 foot bucket ...
Essential to make sure ALL wiring and connections are clean. Need voltage drop o starter and battery voltage during crank. Should be the same and above 9.5V.
well i just wrote a 3 page essay on what i found that fixed my problem ,, i clicked on something and everything went away so im not going to write all that crap over ,,im 72 years old and dont have time for that ,, people after everything i did and replaced it was my positive cable ,, thats all im going to say about that ...its back to normal ...
Excellent video and very clear and easy to understand
Forget it never mind ..GEEZ !!!
ua-cam.com/video/XQIbn27dOjE/v-deo.html 💐
Do you have a wiring Diagram on a 2006-2008 hyundai santa fe/
How to check a relay to a starter on a hyundai santa fe
😆 tell this to the millions of parts distributors across the world literally every “cranking motor” I’ve ever replaced said “starter” on the box and on the sticker with a Part number just another term is all it is wise guy. Lmao.
@@Shortoutful So are “illiterate”, “jack leg” and “moron”. Have another beer and keep laughing.
I spaced out. Can I borrow somebodies notes?
Does being rude help?
@@bivideo7Having a sense of humor does.
@@OhioFootHills So does being funny...
@@bivideo7 Well that cuts borh of us out. :)
@@OhioFootHills Yep
I have a not start and no crank only my 2002 Ford Explorer sport trac 4wd but I connected a wire from the battery to the starter and when it makes contact with the negative it turns on so the starter shouldn’t be the problem nor the motor so could it be the cable from the battery be bad or the ignition switch ?
Not sure what's touching what, but diagnose electrical problems by asking "what's right", not "what's wrong". Rule out everything that's working. What's left is the problem...
My vehicle slow cranks only after I use it. I replaced the starter and still same result. I let the vehicle sit for about an hour after use and it starts fine. Any advice?
SO if my ground wire is greening at the end perhaps I should replace?
Yup...
I have been working on cars for 40 years and not once,not even from an old timer have I ever heard anyone call it a cranking motor.
All wrenches apply torque, but I'll bet you still think you have a "torque wrench" in your box. A relay and a solenoid are different - right? I'll bet you even use water to explain electricity - which is pointless and wrong. I'll stick to what I do best, so you do the same.
Can the starter be the cause of a parasitic drain?
Only if the switch is engaged somehow
I think you just like drawing it while u explain lol helped me tho
Why the starter works when you bump it ,Is that the solenoid problem not the motor?
By referring us to a multimeter you have saved many hours and $!. Very basic and common sense for those aren't able to understand. A well thought out diagnosis video. WWG1WGA!!! 🇺🇸🇳🇫🇺🇸
Where does where we go one we go all fit into all this?
@@tristanvandever9411 Semper fidelis means "always faithful". When we face Jesus at the second coming all will have the glory of having their very own conversation with Christ. Amen. Best wishes.
Dan, are you still around????
Yep. Pretty beat up but still breathing.
@@bivideo7 I feel the same. Time sucks. Are you done making videos?
Love the art... keeps things clear (even if it takes awhile...). But I'm getting thrown off by the mixing of solenoid, relay, switch. All "switches" but solenoid and relay are different pieces of kit and function in slightly different ways. Thanks for doing this!
A "solenoid" is always a valve - NEVER a switch, even thought that's what people think. Only a "relay" is a switch. Up to you to know the difference.
Help. My miata one day stalled out when I put the clutch in on deceleration, but I was able to bump start it back to power, however it started making knocking sounds and had no power at all and eventually I stopped and wasn't able to bump start it again and it would crank really slowly but it wasn't battery because I had replaced the alternator 6 months ago and also jumped the car and tried cranking it and it still would turn over ridiculously slowly. I also heard a bit of knocking at around 3k rpm a few days prior but it went away as the RPMs increased. Is this piston slap? Bent valves? Broken oil pump? Bent valves?
excellent explanation thank you
Somebody was in the military. Lol
Hey Dan, I have two questions. Are in Canada, and do have a brother named Micheal who is an eye doctor? Because I have a snowbird customer in Az from Canada that could be your brother....just thinking small world and all.
Umm - no - eh?
I've got both problems. Cranks once, that's it. After that, turn the key and no crank. New battery, full charge. After crank once, have to charge battery to get it to crank once again. UPDATE 5/30/18 - checked every circuit for parasitic draw. nothing. turns out it was the alarm system. if we don't use the alarm, the battery stays charged and the car turns over and starts with no effort.
JoshuaFinancialPL same problem figured out the problem?
Well than charging your battery didnt make it crank again, and proper testing would have shown the battery was good and not the suspect...
If the starter has a solenoid/relay on it then why is there a need for the starter relay?
Take the load off the ignition switch so the ignition switch contacts dont burn out with the current load going to the solenoid coil winding.
@@chrisdawson7184 ah ok thanks!
Its art class
Little bit
I know. Video sucks balls
Hi, would a bad starter cause a sudden stall at a red light? And cranks but no start afterwards? Thanks
Define "bad". Only if it somehow was engaged and dragging. Can't diagnose this way. Sorry.
Lol I only found it hard when u said it
Yes indeed that is hilarious you said that
ua-cam.com/video/XQIbn27dOjE/v-deo.html 💐
Is a starter solenoid the same as a cranking motor solenoid
kuruji that's what I was thinking.
yes.
I need some help... I have a 69 C10 and I go and start her up and doesn't crank over. I turn the ignition again to no avail and when I attempt to pull out the key it's still cranking without the key in the ignition. Battery then drains after five or so minutes. Can you help me find the culprit here not really a car guy. Bad switch? Bad starter? Bad relay? Alternator?
Thanks,Joe
You solenoid is stuck open bud I hope you fixed it but just in case
Watch on 2x speed.
20x would not help
I never dont
Thank you
Tried it, still takes forever to get thru it. Fell asleep twice.
Summarize... 80 percent of faults is in the wires and 20 percent is in the components. Got it.
Glad you learned something. If that's all you got out of the video then at least you got that... Good job.
My cranking motor grounds through engine block
Not sure I understand. I work on Class 8 trucks and 400T coal equipment. Nothing changes for you.
@@bivideo7 just saying mine has no ground wire
Less art more explaining.
ua-cam.com/video/XQIbn27dOjE/v-deo.html 💐
That’s art? Lmao
less bitching more fixing.
I love the honesty. it gets very confusing. lol.
Yep probably should of watched this earlier bc my car has a slow crank when it sits for more then couple of hours. But when I drive it and restart it say like 15 mins it starts up fine. So I went to advance Auto parts to run a test on alternator and the guy said it's my starter and that my battery was full power. So just got my new starter put in and still did a slow crank after it sat for couple of hrs . Any ideas of what it could be?? I thought it was a fuel line problem from the beginning bc it starts fine if it's been on and I restart it with in 45 mins.
Andrew Lee timing?
Andrew Lee Your battery may not be holding a charge. Adavance auto parts tested your battery after you drove there, giving alternator time to charge battery. Check voltage after car has sat for several hours.
Same
It's a starter or ground problem 99% of the time
excellent explanation. you must have minored in art, because your drawings and handwriting are neat and clear
Well done sir
I feel like I'm watching Kahn Academy for cars...
Absolutely LOL
I wish I could draw like that.
hey, i have a 350sbc with headers and flowmaster exhaust. it starts fine when cold. cranks normally. but after its warmed up it wont start (heat soak i know) but i have a heat wrap around the starter. (starter is also a pmgr mini torque) i Just replaced the battery because it was old and needed changing anyways but i assumed it was the issue. im still not able to crank when cold. my grounds are good. only happens when hot. please help :/
Derp Sanity heat soak my friend
hi wonderful lecture thank you
How to be an artist 101
So... Slow crank because factory put "Lots of wiring in there" ???
There is a second part to this video guys! Let's watch it now.
Is it possible to increase cranking time?
just replaced a starter in my 2006 Pontiac g6 n now it still doesn't crank mechanic thinks it's the anti theft system. so what to do
Check the electrical schematics
Perfect teaching , thanks A lot 👍
ua-cam.com/video/XQIbn27dOjE/v-deo.html 💐
Video could have started at 2:55 and saved tine
You could've resisted the urge to write a rude comment and saved more... ...tine...?
Oh my word, McDonalds must be layin off
We're close but no cigar
It's like a drawing lessons.
Thanks SO much for wasting 5:52 of my life. That was as much of the stupidity as I coulds stand. Thanks for clarifying the ACTUAL name of the spinny thingy that spins the thingy that makes vroom vroom. Now I will sound like an actual mechanic when I got to the parts store to get a new canker....or cranker solenoid. Oh and by the way.....it's a cranker solenoid RELAY...technically speaking.
NAILED IT DUDE !!! LOL
Just coudn't take it anymore......
Man we are trying to get the car figs we are not trying to go to auto school
none of my teachers could explain it better than you.
Wake me up...... When September ends....
Cranking motor, FOH im gonna call the throttle pedal a “manual input lever for initiating an electrically powered,sensed and compensated air inlet valve”.
What's your point? You got a cute way of explaining "head up your ass"? Seriously? Get a life...
very good information
Can I go to the bathroom 😆
I just googled cranking motor for 1974 super beetle. The first result showed pictures of an actual engine motor. The rest of the results called it.....wait for it a STARTER. I have a 1974 VW beetle. the engine CRANKS over really slow sometimes. I wish someone would tell me how to fix it.
No crank slow crank for dummies!
Is this an art show
I have to vehemently disagree that 80% of the time it's wiring!! Almost ALWAYS it's corrosion and or dirty battery post/terminals....period.
And a wee tip for newbs...if you find yourself stranded with no tools & (no, or dead slow crank)...lift the hood, place 2 hands pressure on each positive and negative battery posts, and apply a slight turn in either direction. OFTEN this will re-establish contact with the starter. When you get home, remove those terminal cables...clean them and apply a very small amount of dielectric grease.
Terminals and battery posts ARE wiring. If it isn't the actual motor, it's circuit. The circuit fails 80%. Thanks for agreeing, even if you weren't aware you do.
Interesting video!
20-12-2018, yes lovely video, but, NOTHING_ NO CRANK, for me was fixed, by ( in the middle and the shopping centre cark park)(no previous problems) was fixed by removing the battery clamps, cleaning clamps and terminals with a KFC hand wipe, and WOW it started,
I fell asleep lol 😂
ua-cam.com/video/XQIbn27dOjE/v-deo.html 💐
Nice job!
Dan, I was starting to follow your video but have decided to do otherwise. Where is part 3 and so on in this series?
In four years since you wrote part 1 and part 2 there has been no further training on this subject or there is no obvious way to find the next videos in this topic.
You claim to be an educator and it would appear so by the content of your videos but I think it is disingenuous a claim when you don't follow up with the conclusions to this series in a timely manner and that causes me to question whether I should invest my time and money any further in your lectures and products.
You lost me at just over 3 minutes from boredom due too drawing time and repetitive statements putting me to sleep.