Відео

What information are you missing ?

That step has saved me a couple of time when I accidentally reversed the elyt-caps or bridged them Good luck with the trouble-shooting!

@@MeeBilt yeah thanks. Reflowed everything and checked for bridges, none I could see. Can only assume I bridged underneath the power connected cause of solder flowing underneath it. It’d be a shame

Hello! The headphone output and the balanced outputs are two separate signal paths, each with their own volume/gain control. Do the VU meter LEDs light up when you apply an input signal and turn up the gain pot? There are two versions of the Output module, the version on Github are the first one with 3.5mm jacks and the second one is available in my Tindie shop only.

@@MeeBilt no, the LEDs don't light up, and the HP output is the only component we miss

@@leosoler580 Then you have to follow the signal path from the start and see where the signal disappears

@@MeeBilt thanks for your advice i'll try that ! Have a nice day

Hello, I will push my code to Github soon, but in the mean time there are a couple of projects that are already open source that you can look at: github.com/alicedb2/tinyQuan/tree/main github.com/PierreIsCoding/sdiy/tree/main/Quantizer I have been using a similar approach as the second example for my design.

Awesome! I delighted to hear that you like it - it's one of my favorite 909 voices. The 4015s are a bit tricky so I actually included the PCBA production files on my Github along with the gerber files.

@@MeeBilt I didn't order the PCBs myself, so I had to use what I got. But is there a reason why you didn't use the SO-16-footprint? A lot easier to solder and easier to source. It would have possibly resulted in a slightly larger PCB, but this isn't really an issue here, is it? No criticism whatsoever, I'm just curious ...😃

@@joerglaier4093 I was planning to reuse the noise board for all my designs so I actually ordered a batch of 5 PCBAs. The TSSOP-16 footprint was chosen because it was cheaper and easier to source for some reason.

It looks like it needs some throrough clean. The static could be some op-amp that needs to be replaced, if it's heard all the time. These mixers are nor valuable but they are still used in a lot of home setups, churches and other places. For some reason they are also used in a lot of "no input mixer" setups . So, don't throw it away for landfill 😊

Thanks a lot for those nice words! The Crash and Ride voices are next in line, so there will soon be a video out for those modules

Thanks a lot!

Yeah, that would probably fix it more reliably than using oxide spray like I did.

It's 28AWG

Hej Jimmy! Superkul att höra att dy bygger mina moduler! Jag hade samma funderingar innan jag köpte min T48, men kom fram till att jag förmodligen kommer att använda den flera gånger så jag slog till och köpte den. Mitt nästa 909 projekt kommer att vara Crash/Ride och där använder man samma EPROM, så har du tänkt att bygga dom så har du nytta av den även där. Annars kan jag hjälpa dig att programmera - skicka ett mail till mig via min YT kontakinfo. I Synth-DIY communityn finns den ett par Discord servrar där det finns köpa/byta/sälj-kanaler, t.ex. Kristian Blåsols Discord. Portot inom EU är inte så dyrt och ett PCB + Panel kan man skicka som brev.

Hej, jag kommer göra ett nytt kortvarv för att fixa några problem och PCB filer och källkod kommer att finnas på mn Github inom kort. Skicka ett mail via YTs kontakt-funktion om du är intresserad av ett av de gamla korten, så kan vi nog lösa det :)

+/-12VDC will be fine.

Ohhh, gotta checkout that Lunetta, thanks for your comment

I can't get it to work on my module, so I'm sorry I can't help

@@MeeBilt ok , thanks for confirming a similar issue. I did contact the devs, but no response. I’ll have another naive look at the code and in the unlikely event I sort something out, I’ll let you know.👍

@@UnauthorisedService Please do! Good luck :)

@@MeeBilt perseverance, trial and error = rewards 👍 approx line 182 if (select_ch == 6 && select_menu >= 1) { // random mode *change to* if (select_ch == 6 && select_menu > 1) { // random mode approx line 232 else if (select_ch == 6 && sw == 0) { // random mode bar_select ++; if (bar_select >= 4) { bar_select = 0; *change to* else if (select_ch == 6 ) { // random mode bar_select ++; if (bar_select >= 5) { bar_select = 0; approx line 283 else if (select_ch == 6) { // random mode bar_select --; if (bar_select >= 4) { bar_select = 0; *change to* else if (select_ch == 6) { // random mode bar_select --; if (bar_select >= 4) { bar_select = 4; approx line 433 (enables ch1 random mode, previously disabled) for (k = 1; k <= 5; k++) { *change to* for (k = 0; k <= 5; k++) { i think thats it, random occurence mode and bar selection working !

@@UnauthorisedService Awesome! Good job 😎🔥

That sounds interesting. maybe I should try the +/-5V approach on some build.

@@MeeBilt You can use a simple LM4040 or 78L05 and a inverting opamp to have a bi-polar supply or 2 x LM4040, etc. you need special opamp like "opa2991" if you wanna draw more than 20 mA, this one delivers 75mA

@@MeeBilt You can run it anywhere, as long you don't exceed 18/20 volts potential difference for Cd4000 series, but the same also works for 74HC(T) accept 5V potential, the T versions are good for translating 3V33 to 5V. Waiting too see what you come up with. : ) But try to build a new 2 oct sub osc, it sounds better if it's the same as your VCO. Now you notice or maybe not that something is wrong.

@@MeeBilt i have a ca 4 x 4 cm big pcb for just that exact function for using on breadboards , using opamps, a trimmer rather than fancy LM4040 or so, but with the right electrolytic capacitors and 100 nF at the outputs of them.

Yes, the usable area for a label is limited. I have a labelmaker that can fit 2 rows but with the smallest font I still need to be creative with the text to fit all info

You're welcome

Thanks! Glad you enjoyed it!

Yes, I will look into that, thanks for pointing it out. I will make some updates to the design anyway so I will fix the trig inputs at the same time. LM393 seems like a good choice here since I have two trigger inputs.

@@MeeBilt Yeah, Use LM4040 with 100nF to create 2.5V threshold. your current setup allows any weird voltage that shows up to be accepted, albeit it works its not what you want, potentially making or causing havoc, not good for you if you sell these.

@@MeeBilt Mutable Instruments, when they where active, they build a specialized testing PCB with software for that specified module in question and have it create any possible combination of voltages & what not and have that run for like 7 days non stop, to be sure it does what it's supposed to do, until the module passes, it could take up to 2 years before it came to market.

Thank you! Cheers!

Yes, I will make that change I think. I have seen it mentioned on the RPi forum.

@@MeeBilt I have tested it and I get 10 stable bits and 2 noisy bits. They get stable as well if you average 8 or 16 samples.

I will probably stick to the built in ADC for this module, but for the next one I will probably need more analog inputs so I will go for external ADC.

@@MeeBilt try 'ADS8339' see the datasheet for analog power supply and reference voltage designs for this chip, With a low ohm switch IC, like: ADG5208F, ADG5404F, ADGS1408. Analog Devices has analog switch IC's with like 2.5 Ohm resistance for such applications if you want precision, even with SPI. just a day searching and looking datasheets. : ) You could cut tracks on your current PCB and insert the new options.

​@@MeeBilt Just hack you current board, desolder some resistors to use the pads for soldering cables, design tiny PCB with comparators for trigger inputs, design another with ADC, dedicated power supplies and switches / multiplexer, add emough test points, some additional spots for optional capacitors. You'll be cheaper, than find out you have another PCB that aint right, i did this as well once on module i was figuring out. In your case it's software, you need to know the principle of "state machine", very important. it's like PLC logic used in factories. most software out there, provides the functional, but not really the brains. This kind of logic you design on paper, there is or are an ISO definition for that, once you done on paper, you make the software and from the get go it works and is bug free, just in one compile, the first one. there are symbols for that.

@@AnalogDude_ Yep, that is basically how I go about testing design-changes. I normally nail it in 2 board-spins or so. I've been using state machine based designs for many years in embedded systems. It's great for implementing UI and complex control functions for example.

@@MeeBilt Ya, you don't need update a display millions of times a second or check buttons that often. most do not know, the ADC ic i suggested can have 2.5V reference Voltage and you can divide theoretical 10V input signal by 4, easier input opamp configuring, like 10k / 2.49K + 1 Ohm. using 0.1% resistors or better.

Thanks! Yeah, you can use a 50k pot instead.

Yeah its starting to take form. But now I need a bigger case

Thanks!

Hello Piotr, I got the PCBs from Luther, the designer of the module. If you want to get in touch with him, please check the contact info at the bottom of his Github page: github.com/PierreIsCoding/sdiy

Yeah, I'm thinking of combining all the cymbal voices (Hihat, Crash, Ride) into a combo module, using a microcontroller.

I got some 'wav' file and extracted 88.200 'samples', 16 bit or 'short' datatype, converted that in header and it burned perfectly in the Fubarino and that one works with the arduino IDE. accept you have to see the datasheet for the register locations (timers, interrupts, etc). instead of 40174 (74hc174) use 74hc373 / 74hc573 to make it fully 8 bit. there are some cheap 16 bit adc's from Texas ...., that can only do some 250 samples second, rather than the 10 bit onboard. @@MeeBilt

There are low cost 16 bit adc's from Texas ...., single, dual or quad, but can only do 250 samples second. rather than the 10 bit onboard. @@MeeBilt

i'd build /buy one of those 😍@@MeeBilt

Awesome! Good luck with the build

You are absolutely right

I did reflow soldering on all the SMT components and the TH was handsoldered.

Please contact me on Tindie and I will sort that out.

@@MeeBilt its fine I just sanded them a little and it fit perfectly. It works great, really nice. It was just a comment for you to know.

@diaz1776 Thanks for letting me know; The fit between the frontpanel holes and the flange on the 1/4" jacks are really tight. It's really important to fit the jacks and the panel before soldering the jacks in place, but I assume that you have done it like that. I have checked all the frontpanels that I have in stock and they are all OK.

@@MeeBilt Yes, I made sure that the whole flat surface of the jacks was making contact with the back of the front panel, not just the neck. One thing that may have caused this is that in the metal ring of the jacks that was suposed to fit there was a small plastic thing that protruded a bit from the diameter. I've checked some vertical jacks i have and they dont have this plastic thing.

@@guillediaz1776 I will check that too. I got a new batch of 1/4" jacks delivered this week so I will go through them as well. Thanks a lot for letting me know.

I'm thinking of adding a couple slots for creating your own scales where you can tune the notes individually. They still have to be within one octave. Also the 1V/Oct CV input still needs to be withing the 12 notes per octave.

You're welcome!

I buy them from a store in Sweden: www.electrokit.com/en/product/pot-1mohm-lin-rv9312no/ But I strongly suggest that you go for a LOG pot (A1M) instead, since it will make the adjustments so much easier - I have actually replaced the pots on all the modules that I have built... However, these are even harder to find in the EU, so I buy them from Aliexpress.

@@MeeBilt Thank you for the info any links you can share for aliexpress as the only ones I can find have a 10mm spacing between the 3 pins the ground pins not the 7.5mm spacing needed for the boards.

@@wdl1908 I got these a while ago, the store is named casechan: www.aliexpress.com/item/1005003912965120.html?spm=a2g0o.detail.pcDetailBottomMoreOtherSeller.1.276ckQ9CkQ9CZb&gps-id=pcDetailBottomMoreOtherSeller&scm=1007.40050.354490.0&scm_id=1007.40050.354490.0&scm-url=1007.40050.354490.0&pvid=1b14b8bb-3dc1-4e52-a8d4-1ff577447be3&_t=gps-id:pcDetailBottomMoreOtherSeller,scm-url:1007.40050.354490.0,pvid:1b14b8bb-3dc1-4e52-a8d4-1ff577447be3,tpp_buckets:668%232846%238112%231997&pdp_npi=4%40dis%21USD%213.74%213.55%21%21%213.74%213.55%21%402101c72a17084529995492957e4968%2112000027451259383%21rec%21SE%213730794200%21&utparam-url=scene%3ApcDetailBottomMoreOtherSeller%7Cquery_from%3A

Hey,, good luck with the build! Don't hesitate to contact me if you have any questions about sourcing components. Make sure that you get the CD4011UB (unbuffered type) - check out Digikey 296-3184-1-ND . I strongly recommend to use the Winbond W27E257 instead of the ancient UV-erasable EPROM, they are cool but the draw a lot of current and are difficult to get hold of.

@@MeeBilt Just finished the build. After resoldering 2 diodes, everything worked perfectly! Thanks for sharing.

@@jokkemartens8065 Awesome! Good job ! 💪