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Larry, I'm pretty sure I tried that on my reel back when I first was struggling with it but I'm not certain. I've passed the information along to Dan since it's in his hands now. Comgratulations on getting it fixed. Fish On!

Maybe a little back bay work but it’s a pretty light reel for saltwater. Also the screws are not stainless steel so they will rust up pretty quick if not carefully cleaned after each use. Personally, I wouldn’t use it in saltwater.

@youngmartinsreels5314 thank you

They are very nice reels and highly sought after. I’m more of a spinning reel guy but these are great spincast reels.

Yes Steve, I have a bad habit of moving the camera in and forgetting to back it out again. When that happens, I tend to move out of the frame. I wish I had someone to watch the camera to let me know when that happens but alas, I’m stuck with filming alone.

I understand. I do enjoy your videos I am trying to learn reel repair and I always watch you and 2nd chance tackle

No the noise comes from the lever dropping down from the high point on the cam to the low point on the cam. As it makes that drop, it makes an audible click with each rotation. Maybe you could find a way to shim it so that it couldn’t drop all the way down but then it wouldn’t have as much stopping contact when the cam lobe rotates backward. I’d rather live with the click than attempt that.

​@@youngmartinsreels5314Thanks for the reply. I'm trying to understand why that would not also be the case when the reel originally has a rubber "spring" instead of the one you made. Unless I'm misunderstanding, it seemed like you suggested adding a spring would make it a noisy anti reverse. Thanks for the videos though. I've enjoyed trawling through some old reels I haven't seen in a long time.

Since I’ve never encountered a reel with the original rubber piece intact, I’ve never truly understood how the rubber pieces worked. All I know is they were supposed to be silent. I’m guessing the rubber held the arm positioned close to the bottom of the cam but prevented it from going all the way down. As the cam pushed back against the arm, the rubber gave enough to left it move back, then as the lobe slipped past its peak the arm would drop back forward but not far enough to strike the cam. I’m assuming the rubber fit up into the slot cut into the arm and would flex back and forth. Again, this is all speculation on my part since I’ve never seen one intact.

@@youngmartinsreels5314 Thanks again, I look forward to your next video. :)

You will need to measure it carefully to find out what size it was then you can purchase one from these guys. www.smoothdrag.com/wp/

@youngmartinsreels5314 thank you, a cousin gave the same exact baitcaster but its missing the tension washer

I think I used my little mini torch to heat the plastic and make it better looking. It wasn’t perfect but it didn’t really look too bad either.

Yes, this reel needed a bit more than a touch up. I’d say 80% of the paint was either gone or bubbled.

@@youngmartinsreels5314 I saw that after I posted. The inside of mine was missing some of the finish like yours. Had some white oxide on the aluminum underneath the gold on the inside and as soon as I rubbed on it, it came off. I figured I wasn’t gonna worry about it on the inside and made sure to put plenty of grease in there to keep it from doing it again. Mine is a first gen GS9 was recently given to me. I think it had a pretty easy life and sat in the garage most of the time. Just a little road rash on the outside from banging around in the garage. I’m guessing also probably a few boat rides.

James, I’m tight so I like picking up $1 screwdrivers. I take them and regrind the tips to match what I need, then I reheat and quench them to make sure they are hard. I can only do that with common tips. I have a very old wooden handle that I use often that belonged to my grandfather.

Bill, the front drag washer was felt but it had been heavily greased so I didn’t oil it. The other drag washer was a fiber washer. I probably should have worked harder to remove the grease and then oiled it. I get sloppy sometimes. Good catch.

Chris, now you know about another Daiwa that used the rubber AR design. My first thought was that someone had installed that AR lever in backwards and that it should be flipped over. If you look at the 12:27 point in the video while I'm fast forwarding the spring making test, you will me attempt to install the are the wrong way. It is only there for about a half a second, but you can clearly see that the arm cannot be installed that way. In addition, there is no hole in the main gear and no clip on the main gear. I have seen some with a plastic part that clipped onto the main gear but there was no indication that this ever had one. This is the third Daiwa that I have repaired the ARs with a home-built spring. I think the first was the GS-90 where the squeeze claw was worn out, then the AS4050 with the melted rubber and now the SKA1355 we are working on here. In all three cases, it appears Daiwa was attempting to make a silent AR system. They succeeded in all three cases, but their design wasn't robust enough to withstand the test of time. I agree with you about the fast cast design. I prefer an AR system that will lock the bail at least 12 times per rotor rotation. Of course it was you on the phone, who else would it have been? 😊 No, I didn't oil the axle shaft, I greased it because it had been bent. If it was going to try to rub, I wanted it to have as much lubrication as possible.

I thought about half way through that this one might defeat me but I finally got it going.

It’s such a thin ratchet that I don’t really think it would help much. I believe it the AR arm would just scrape the grease off the ratchet and it would go back to being noisy again. If it had a thicker AR ratchet, the grease would probably silence it more.

I missed it the first time I took one apart too.

I don’t think so.

Here is a schematic for the 5000C: www.reelschematic.com/wp-content/uploads/schematics/Abu%20Garcia/Round%20Baitcast/5000/Ambassadeur%205000C%20(01-01%20Black).pdf And if I was looking to order drag washers, I would contact www.smoothdrag.com/wp/

This one took more effort than the previous Daiwa reels that I’ve created anti-reverse springs for. It was nice to see it working again.

When you consider that this is an origin reel for the DAM Quick company, it’s not surprising. This reel was made before DAM merged with Quick. If they had been making poor quality reels, the merger probably wouldn’t have happened. That balance weight was pretty cool but it isn’t a very precise design. A slight shift in how it is placed on the pinion could really throw the balance off. I’m excited to do the video on my Quick reel from before the merger. It will be interesting to see how they compare.

Chris, I agree, it looks cheap but it seems to work pretty well. My biggest problem with the reel is the plastic that it is made with. It had some light paint overspray on it and I attempted to remove it using acetone. As soon as I started to wipe, the plastic started to melt. Overall, I think it will make a great kid’s reel.

With a date code of EC, that means its first year of manufacture was 1968.

I’m sure the Shakespeare fans had a fit when they came out with this reel. I’m sure the idea was to compete with the 202 in price and quality. Apparently it didn’t do so well since this is the only one I’ve ever encountered.

If I thought I would look up and see the "Back Out" sign I would certainly consider making one. Unfortunately, I get so into the job at hand that I would never look up and see the sign. I had the socket; I just didn't have it readily handy at my work bench. I usually know what you like and don't like about reels. I don't understand why you like this anti-reverse. It has no override and it's an extremely simple, ratcheting claw design. Please explain. Now it's easy to understand pulling the line off if I'm installing new line but some have questioned why I bothered if it wasn't going to go fishing. That's why I explained. As for kids, they almost always get fresh line. This only time I opt out is if I can tell the line is fresh and lays slack.

I have had very poor results using epoxy to attach rubber to steel. I had never tried using super glue gel on that combination so I figured I’d give it a try. I’ve used it for years as a finish on my wooden pens and though I never spent much time dipping my pens in water, I’ve never noticed a problem with moisture getting on them. I guess maybe I should go back to my rubber cement.

@@youngmartinsreels5314 Yes sir, I've used it on lures and bugs but...no luck. However I never tried the gel.I didn't notice that part////bill

I can’t say this design didn’t have me stumped the first time I encountered it. I found it by accident while testing the anti-reverse claw to see if it would hold. I had already given up on removing it and decided that they must have press fit the crankshaft to the main gear. When the crankshaft popped and unscrewed on me, I feared that I had broken it. I wonder how many people over the years have gotten that far and stopped. I’m sure it wasn’t easier to make it this way and I’m also certain that it isn’t more reliable than having an accessible side plate. Maybe it was to keep from running afoul of other company’s patents. Whatever the reason, it’s a very interesting design.

Chris, there was no need to lube the crankshaft since the sleeve it slid into had already been oiled. I did manage to find the spring the next day but that's how it happens sometimes. I don't mind compressing the spring with my nail as long as I don't have to hold it down too long. I agree that the tiny wire clip was hard to see. I have no doubt that you could have handled it with some practice.

Dan, you are correct that the washer was on top of the pinion gear when I took it apart. The washer seems to do a good job of spacing the pinion away from the body of the reel if it’s underneath. I don’t really think it makes much difference.

@@youngmartinsreels5314 I like to put the washer against the frame during reassembly of Shakespeare spincast reels. I feel that it helps align the gear teeth for less chatter and adds longevity to the pinion gear.

All of those are valid points but my biggest reason was to prevent the teeth of the pinion from scrapping on the frame. You guys think a lot harder than I do. 😄

Dan, why do you suppose Shakespeare made so many different models that were almost exactly the same. It almost seems as though they were trying to capture as many patents as they could so that no one else could compete against them.

@ I suspect that it was a dog-eat-dog market in the spincast world. The spincast reels of that era were starting to compete with the growing acceptance of spinning reels, so there was a lot of competition in the market.

Dan, it’s a right nice little reel. I’m just curious why they made it so difficult to service. It seems that they didn’t want your average user to be able to service it.

Jay, I call anything that is made from spring wire a spring. Technically, I think you are more correct, in that it retains the axle shaft and holds it up once you push the button. However, I have enough trouble remembering what I call things, so I guess I’ll probably stick with D spring. Thanks for the input.

Check to see if the rotor is staying up after you release the button like it does at the 20:54 point in the video. If not the line will not release.

works good button stays down put line on will not release line all reels work good without line

⁠Herman, how old is the line. Once it’s been on for a few years it sets a memory and won’t want to release from the spool.

The line is new

If the line is new and the rotor is staying up when you let go of the button, the only thing left would be sharp or rough edges on the spool.

Sorry, I have no idea.

Picked it up at an Estate Sale. It was pretty stiff, but it cleaned up pretty nice.

Oh, also I forgot to add to my previous comment that I ALWAYS add a drop or two of thicker oil to the bottom of the center shaft on the outside of the metal case. That works wonders to keep the inner gears moving smoothly. The cool thing is that often times that's all a sluggish reel needs to work smoothly again, and it's doesn't even need to be disassembled.

Brian these are excellent tips. Often people miss out on the most interesting parts of my videos because they don’t read the comments. Thanks for the input.

Glenn, I use Super Lube grease on the gears and Penn reel oil on the sliding parts. Pretty much any grease and oil designed for fishing reels will work fine.

@@youngmartinsreels5314 Thank you for the recommendation. I will be taking it apart this week. I took it out last night on a little solo ice fishing trip and caught a nice walleye with it. It worked very well for ice fishing but I can tell the grease inside is a little dry. Cant wait to get it all lubed up. I think receiving this reel from my grandfather just got me into the hobby of collecting old fishing gear. My grandfather has been collecting fishing gear for a life time and took extremely good care of his stuff. It's all in tip top condition. Mostly from the 50's lots of rods and reels. No idea why he decided to give this to me one day but now I'm hooked!

Glenn, I ended up with most of my dad’s tackle. I didn’t know it when it happened but I’m hooked now myself.

@@youngmartinsreels5314 Got some grease and oil finally and took the reel apart and lubed it up. It works perfectly now! also i was looking through my grandfathers old tackle box and found a mints tin and inside was a brand new worm gear, pawl, and line guide piece! I'll have this reel working for another hundred years now. My sons are gonna hand it down to their kids! thanks for the video man it was a huge help.

@@youngmartinsreels5314 Hey I just rebuilt the reel. It works perfectly. nice and lubed up. Also found a brand new worm drive and pawl and line guide in a old altoids tin in my grandpas tackle box. Should be good for another hundred years now haha. I went ice fishing the other night and caught a nice walleye on it. works great for ice fishing. Thanks for the video man it helped a lot!

John, I think your spring is slightly heavier than mine but I think mines close enough to work.

That 404 was a work horse reel and they caught a bunch of fish.

James, that’s cool. What is your favorite “day” time catfishing reel? 😁

@@youngmartinsreels5314 Shakespeare 2062's. Bomb proof reels.

@@youngmartinsreels5314 Shakespeare 2062's. Bomb proof reels. It's just that spincast is easier to deal with at night than spinning or baitcast. I've owned 2 Shakespeare EZ-Casts and 4 Synergy Ti 20's for at least 20 years now and with regular maintenance they have been fool proof.

@@youngmartinsreels5314 Daytime would be Shakespeare's 2062.

Very nice reel

It’s fine John, I answer to either name.

John, this video was truly a challenge to create. After taking off the front cover and side plate, I realized it was a bit more than most spincast reels. I stopped and hit the Internet to see what I could find. I didn’t find much but I did find a few articles describing how to install new line on ORCA. That told me how to remove the rotor and from there things went pretty smooth. I was happy to create the video.

Well you certainly did a good job

I hardly have the heart to tell you this but there is a cool spring on the anti reverse, goes from the post sticking up right where the lever comes through and goes back about 1/2 inch or so to the next post where the dog joins on , mine is attached but I have the opposite problem of always being in anti reverse, I think it's just a matter of bending it a little, anyway that's what I discovered, great job on the handle by the way

Not cool , coil

John, any chance you can send me a clear picture of that spring installed. If you can, send it to me @ rock48cj2a@yahoo.com I’ll see if I can make a replacement spring and post a video of it.