Very good video. I noticed your tools are as old as mine. I sometimes look at flea markets for old tools because the screw driver tips seem to have better heat treatment than a lot of the modern ones
James, I’m tight so I like picking up $1 screwdrivers. I take them and regrind the tips to match what I need, then I reheat and quench them to make sure they are hard. I can only do that with common tips. I have a very old wooden handle that I use often that belonged to my grandfather.
That was very satisfying to watch. You did a great job on bringing an old reel back into commission. I'm no reel expert, but I was wondering if shimming the stop point on the anti-reverse lever would prevent that noise? Does the noise come from the lever resting on the cam disc as it rotates?
No the noise comes from the lever dropping down from the high point on the cam to the low point on the cam. As it makes that drop, it makes an audible click with each rotation. Maybe you could find a way to shim it so that it couldn’t drop all the way down but then it wouldn’t have as much stopping contact when the cam lobe rotates backward. I’d rather live with the click than attempt that.
@@youngmartinsreels5314Thanks for the reply. I'm trying to understand why that would not also be the case when the reel originally has a rubber "spring" instead of the one you made. Unless I'm misunderstanding, it seemed like you suggested adding a spring would make it a noisy anti reverse. Thanks for the videos though. I've enjoyed trawling through some old reels I haven't seen in a long time.
Since I’ve never encountered a reel with the original rubber piece intact, I’ve never truly understood how the rubber pieces worked. All I know is they were supposed to be silent. I’m guessing the rubber held the arm positioned close to the bottom of the cam but prevented it from going all the way down. As the cam pushed back against the arm, the rubber gave enough to left it move back, then as the lobe slipped past its peak the arm would drop back forward but not far enough to strike the cam. I’m assuming the rubber fit up into the slot cut into the arm and would flex back and forth. Again, this is all speculation on my part since I’ve never seen one intact.
The only Daiwas that I know that used that rubberized AR claw were the Apollo Silver series rear drag reels. If the Daiwa rear drag you have has an “AS” in front of the reel number I would immediately fear that Daiwa had that notorious melting part. As I looked at that AR claw i started wondering if it was out in wrong. Usually when you see a slot in an AR claw like this there is often a piece on the main gear shaft that is supposed to go into that slot. This may not be the case it’s this reel but it sure would have at least made me look on the main gear to see if there was a spring or other piece that might have been intended to mesh with that slot in the claw. Of course most main gears with a piece like that will have a hole through the main gear to help with sighting that piece into that slot this may not apply to this reel at all but it made me suspicious. . I’m really sorry to see that the claw had that rubber muck on it. I wonder how many reels that Daiwa made with this faulty part and design. Seeing the rear drag construction I’m really starting to dislike the reel even more than I was to begin with. I don’t like fast-cast or quick-fire reels at all and out of over 420 vintage spinning reels I only own one Daiwa Regal thatbis a fast-cast reel. I saw it coming because everyone of my 15 blue Shakespeare 2400 series reels uses this same type of spring mechanism. I can’t believe you left that alone. I was waiting for, “but I’m going to do it anyway!” Three of the rear drag reels you sent me to work on have that same clip that works as a clicker. I don’t like them either! (I hope that was not me on the phone?) Going back and forth on those pinion screws was a pretty smart way to go. I really don’t care for this anti-reverse.mDid you oil the axle shaft? There are so many things I just don’t like about this reel. It does not, however, diminish the fine job you did on this reel and this video. - Chris PS. I got another reel today that I’ll tell you about tomorrow. It’s another one I absolutely did not need at all but it was so nice I just could not resist particularly given what it cost or rather what it didn’t cost. And, it was not a Mitchell.
Chris, now you know about another Daiwa that used the rubber AR design. My first thought was that someone had installed that AR lever in backwards and that it should be flipped over. If you look at the 12:27 point in the video while I'm fast forwarding the spring making test, you will me attempt to install the are the wrong way. It is only there for about a half a second, but you can clearly see that the arm cannot be installed that way. In addition, there is no hole in the main gear and no clip on the main gear. I have seen some with a plastic part that clipped onto the main gear but there was no indication that this ever had one. This is the third Daiwa that I have repaired the ARs with a home-built spring. I think the first was the GS-90 where the squeeze claw was worn out, then the AS4050 with the melted rubber and now the SKA1355 we are working on here. In all three cases, it appears Daiwa was attempting to make a silent AR system. They succeeded in all three cases, but their design wasn't robust enough to withstand the test of time. I agree with you about the fast cast design. I prefer an AR system that will lock the bail at least 12 times per rotor rotation. Of course it was you on the phone, who else would it have been? 😊 No, I didn't oil the axle shaft, I greased it because it had been bent. If it was going to try to rub, I wanted it to have as much lubrication as possible.
It’s such a thin ratchet that I don’t really think it would help much. I believe it the AR arm would just scrape the grease off the ratchet and it would go back to being noisy again. If it had a thicker AR ratchet, the grease would probably silence it more.
Yes Steve, I have a bad habit of moving the camera in and forgetting to back it out again. When that happens, I tend to move out of the frame. I wish I had someone to watch the camera to let me know when that happens but alas, I’m stuck with filming alone.
![Lp. Сердце Вселенной #60 РОЖДЕНИЕ ЛОЛОЛОШКИ [Финал] • Майнкрафт](http://i.ytimg.com/vi/YoR0pAV9FVQ/mqdefault.jpg)
Great job on the spring!
This one took more effort than the previous Daiwa reels that I’ve created anti-reverse springs for. It was nice to see it working again.
good work sir
I thought about half way through that this one might defeat me but I finally got it going.
Very good video. I noticed your tools are as old as mine. I sometimes look at flea markets for old tools because the screw driver tips seem to have better heat treatment than a lot of the modern ones
James, I’m tight so I like picking up $1 screwdrivers. I take them and regrind the tips to match what I need, then I reheat and quench them to make sure they are hard. I can only do that with common tips. I have a very old wooden handle that I use often that belonged to my grandfather.
Oh man, I probably would have missed the importance of the rotor's position relative to the pinion shaft!
I missed it the first time I took one apart too.
That was very satisfying to watch. You did a great job on bringing an old reel back into commission.
I'm no reel expert, but I was wondering if shimming the stop point on the anti-reverse lever would prevent that noise? Does the noise come from the lever resting on the cam disc as it rotates?
No the noise comes from the lever dropping down from the high point on the cam to the low point on the cam. As it makes that drop, it makes an audible click with each rotation. Maybe you could find a way to shim it so that it couldn’t drop all the way down but then it wouldn’t have as much stopping contact when the cam lobe rotates backward. I’d rather live with the click than attempt that.
@@youngmartinsreels5314Thanks for the reply. I'm trying to understand why that would not also be the case when the reel originally has a rubber "spring" instead of the one you made. Unless I'm misunderstanding, it seemed like you suggested adding a spring would make it a noisy anti reverse. Thanks for the videos though. I've enjoyed trawling through some old reels I haven't seen in a long time.
Since I’ve never encountered a reel with the original rubber piece intact, I’ve never truly understood how the rubber pieces worked. All I know is they were supposed to be silent. I’m guessing the rubber held the arm positioned close to the bottom of the cam but prevented it from going all the way down. As the cam pushed back against the arm, the rubber gave enough to left it move back, then as the lobe slipped past its peak the arm would drop back forward but not far enough to strike the cam. I’m assuming the rubber fit up into the slot cut into the arm and would flex back and forth. Again, this is all speculation on my part since I’ve never seen one intact.
@@youngmartinsreels5314 Thanks again, I look forward to your next video. :)
The only Daiwas that I know that used that rubberized AR claw were the Apollo Silver series rear drag reels. If the Daiwa rear drag you have has an “AS” in front of the reel number I would immediately fear that Daiwa had that notorious melting part. As I looked at that AR claw i started wondering if it was out in wrong. Usually when you see a slot in an AR claw like this there is often a piece on the main gear shaft that is supposed to go into that slot. This may not be the case it’s this reel but it sure would have at least made me look on the main gear to see if there was a spring or other piece that might have been intended to mesh with that slot in the claw. Of course most main gears with a piece like that will have a hole through the main gear to help with sighting that piece into that slot this may not apply to this reel at all but it made me suspicious. . I’m really sorry to see that the claw had that rubber muck on it. I wonder how many reels that Daiwa made with this faulty part and design. Seeing the rear drag construction I’m really starting to dislike the reel even more than I was to begin with. I don’t like fast-cast or quick-fire reels at all and out of over 420 vintage spinning reels I only own one Daiwa Regal thatbis a fast-cast reel. I saw it coming because everyone of my 15 blue Shakespeare 2400 series reels uses this same type of spring mechanism. I can’t believe you left that alone. I was waiting for, “but I’m going to do it anyway!” Three of the rear drag reels you sent me to work on have that same clip that works as a clicker. I don’t like them either! (I hope that was not me on the phone?) Going back and forth on those pinion screws was a pretty smart way to go. I really don’t care for this anti-reverse.mDid you oil the axle shaft? There are so many things I just don’t like about this reel. It does not, however, diminish the fine job you did on this reel and this video. - Chris PS. I got another reel today that I’ll tell you about tomorrow. It’s another one I absolutely did not need at all but it was so nice I just could not resist particularly given what it cost or rather what it didn’t cost. And, it was not a Mitchell.
Chris, now you know about another Daiwa that used the rubber AR design. My first thought was that someone had installed that AR lever in backwards and that it should be flipped over. If you look at the 12:27 point in the video while I'm fast forwarding the spring making test, you will me attempt to install the are the wrong way. It is only there for about a half a second, but you can clearly see that the arm cannot be installed that way. In addition, there is no hole in the main gear and no clip on the main gear. I have seen some with a plastic part that clipped onto the main gear but there was no indication that this ever had one. This is the third Daiwa that I have repaired the ARs with a home-built spring. I think the first was the GS-90 where the squeeze claw was worn out, then the AS4050 with the melted rubber and now the SKA1355 we are working on here. In all three cases, it appears Daiwa was attempting to make a silent AR system. They succeeded in all three cases, but their design wasn't robust enough to withstand the test of time.
I agree with you about the fast cast design. I prefer an AR system that will lock the bail at least 12 times per rotor rotation. Of course it was you on the phone, who else would it have been? 😊
No, I didn't oil the axle shaft, I greased it because it had been bent. If it was going to try to rub, I wanted it to have as much lubrication as possible.
Would putting some grease on the AR ratchet and dog reduce the scraping / grinding noise the dog makes as it rubs on the ratchet?
It’s such a thin ratchet that I don’t really think it would help much. I believe it the AR arm would just scrape the grease off the ratchet and it would go back to being noisy again. If it had a thicker AR ratchet, the grease would probably silence it more.
I enjoyed the video except what you was working on was out of the picture a lot of the time. Couldn't tell what you was doing.
Yes Steve, I have a bad habit of moving the camera in and forgetting to back it out again. When that happens, I tend to move out of the frame. I wish I had someone to watch the camera to let me know when that happens but alas, I’m stuck with filming alone.
I understand. I do enjoy your videos I am trying to learn reel repair and I always watch you and 2nd chance tackle