That's a good size casting. if you have designed this and created the toolpath for your CNC mill, then you should be able to generate a STL file to create 3D print. I have first hand knowledge of the process of lost PLA casting. Just recently I decided to get into casting aluminum models and bought a propane furnace, with a 10kg crucible. Next thing I know I am ordering the parts and materials to build a kiln capable of 2000 deg F to burn out the 3D printed version of the part to leave a clean void in the plaster in which to pour the molten material. This of course is more like investment casting. The finished part if successful can achieve amazing degrees of detail. Anyway if you like I would be happy to generate a proper accurate version in the very best filament for the task. It is called PVB, short for Polyvinyl Butryal. It is able to be smoothed with isopropyl alcohol. And has a low ash content if used in a flask (cope and drag) with greensand, so a good candidate. Just reply if you are interested. Maybe you know somebody that is into 3DP and closer than Canada. Shipping will be a small irritant but not a show stopper. Best regards C
@@stevesrt8 I've not seen it done using a conventional flask arrangement. I've no hands on with this method, current experience is all UA-cam content. Odd that I have clocked as many hours given my stock in trade is more 3D design/ CNC Little of it prepares me for lost PLA casting. Mistakes will be made. I'm good with that. So I gather there is no need to account for draft or fuss with a parting line and such. Just bury it and fashion the feeder, pouring basin and vents. What kind of aluminum does one use for this application? I will be attempting to use some off cuts of 6061 but there are other types.
@@chrisleech1565 6061 is not great for casting. best type of casting alminum is a356. basically aluminum rims melded down is the premium home gamer stuff. i do lots of lost foam casting but i use random junk because it is mainly decorative stuff for me. i have lots of vids on my channel but Kelly Coffield is the master when it comes to lost foam casting for engine parts. worth checking out.
I’ll let you know if I get stuck, I appreciate the offer. I can send you the file anyway if you want to have a go at casting it. Printing is definitely less labour intensive to make the patterns than machining. I am going to use lm25 aluminium hopefully, the last engine I cast was made from recycled Honda engine cases and a ford cylinder head. Although I didn’t heat treat it like I should have. This time if I can I want to avoid casting myself as I want quality de gassed aluminium which I can heat treat.
@@OddsandEndsMachining No reason why you cant produce quality castings yourself. For someone that builds a machine like a GP motorcycle from scratch, it's a skill you should own instead of source because the V4 powerplant could offer you competitve advantage that no privateer could ever financially consider. Irrespective of what the evaporative pattern material may be, anyone that thinks you can use a block investment or shell mold to cast parts this size and larger for the same cost or effort as lost foam has never used both processes....and the disparity just gets more dramatic with part size because it's a third power function of volume. Any 3D printed evaporative pattern will require burnout and one of those hard mold methods. Best, Kelly
www.insulationwholesalers.co.nz/Online_products/High-Density-Extruded-Polystyrene-p83041225. Here is the stuff, they happened to be within 5 mins of where I work. Give them a ring. Originally I used a product from bunnings that is no longer sold.
Looking forward to more of the V4. Awesome build.
Really cool and looking forward to more of the V4. Great project
That's a good size casting. if you have designed this and created the toolpath for your CNC mill, then you should be able to generate a STL file to create 3D print. I have first hand knowledge of the process of lost PLA casting. Just recently I decided to get into casting aluminum models and bought a propane furnace, with a 10kg crucible. Next thing I know I am ordering the parts and materials to build a kiln capable of 2000 deg F to burn out the 3D printed version of the part to leave a clean void in the plaster in which to pour the molten material. This of course is more like investment casting. The finished part if successful can achieve amazing degrees of detail. Anyway if you like I would be happy to generate a proper accurate version in the very best filament for the task. It is called PVB, short for Polyvinyl Butryal. It is able to be smoothed with isopropyl alcohol. And has a low ash content if used in a flask (cope and drag) with greensand, so a good candidate. Just reply if you are interested. Maybe you know somebody that is into 3DP and closer than Canada. Shipping will be a small irritant but not a show stopper. Best regards C
Lost foam casting is perfect for this. much easier method of casting then lost PLA.
@@stevesrt8 I've not seen it done using a conventional flask arrangement. I've no hands on with this method, current experience is all UA-cam content. Odd that I have clocked as many hours given my stock in trade is more 3D design/ CNC
Little of it prepares me for lost PLA casting. Mistakes will be made. I'm good with that.
So I gather there is no need to account for draft or fuss with a parting line and such. Just bury it and fashion the feeder, pouring basin and vents. What kind of aluminum does one use for this application? I will be attempting to use some off cuts of 6061 but there are other types.
@@chrisleech1565 6061 is not great for casting. best type of casting alminum is a356. basically aluminum rims melded down is the premium home gamer stuff. i do lots of lost foam casting but i use random junk because it is mainly decorative stuff for me. i have lots of vids on my channel but Kelly Coffield is the master when it comes to lost foam casting for engine parts. worth checking out.
I’ll let you know if I get stuck, I appreciate the offer. I can send you the file anyway if you want to have a go at casting it. Printing is definitely less labour intensive to make the patterns than machining.
I am going to use lm25 aluminium hopefully, the last engine I cast was made from recycled Honda engine cases and a ford cylinder head. Although I didn’t heat treat it like I should have.
This time if I can I want to avoid casting myself as I want quality de gassed aluminium which I can heat treat.
@@OddsandEndsMachining No reason why you cant produce quality castings yourself. For someone that builds a machine like a GP motorcycle from scratch, it's a skill you should own instead of source because the V4 powerplant could offer you competitve advantage that no privateer could ever financially consider. Irrespective of what the evaporative pattern material may be, anyone that thinks you can use a block investment or shell mold to cast parts this size and larger for the same cost or effort as lost foam has never used both processes....and the disparity just gets more dramatic with part size because it's a third power function of volume. Any 3D printed evaporative pattern will require burnout and one of those hard mold methods. Best, Kelly
What foam are you using? Iv been trying to source something in Nz for lost foam casting but struggling to find a supplier of low density xps. Cheers
www.insulationwholesalers.co.nz/Online_products/High-Density-Extruded-Polystyrene-p83041225.
Here is the stuff, they happened to be within 5 mins of where I work. Give them a ring. Originally I used a product from bunnings that is no longer sold.
Do you take on jobs I need a custom set of triple clamps for a sportster to convert it to street triple USD forks
Send me an email with some more details, I might be able to help you out.