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Huge potential with all our products, but clutching makes them so much better. I have a clutch installation video, just needing to upload it. Look for it soon. -Mike

We prefer to leave it on the vehicle. No puller needed, and less chance of an issue with alignment after.

I just put one on a ridge and it is AWESOME. I left the drive clutch on like you showed and it was insanely simple. Out testing it right now vs a stock clutch.

Yes it will. What size tires are you running? And is it giving you the CVT/belt slip error?

@aftermarketassassins5491 30in tires and ya cvt light flashing when in thick mud or climbing trailer ramp (its steep)..

Button wear and excessive clearance is normally a rattle at idle. Off idle, it should go away. The secondary helix has a large EBS(engine braking) notch which causes some rattle as well. Our standard EBS helix will improve this, or we now offer a Non-EBS helix which has no notch.... so it completely eliminates the secondary chatter. Thanks!

@@aftermarketassassins5491 Thank you so much for the quick reply! I'm only experiencing it if I blip thee throttle hard on the 21 Turbo XP 1300miles on it. The 22 Pro XP has 1100 miles and doesn't do it. I don' think it's catastrophic so I'm going to dig into over the winter. Thanks again

No problem, see here: aftermarketassassins.com/products/ols/products/kawasaki-krx-1000-aa-custom-tunes Thanks!

No good to hear! The flapper valve should move freely back/forth with the wastegate actuator rod disconnected.

@@aftermarketassassins5491 flapper valve does move freely i wasn’t sure if it had to have tension. I thought it did so looks like im good on that then. Thanks i just need to figure out how to put that lil nipple back on the flapper valve thanks i wish i would of seen your video first you explain the process perfectly👍🏼👍🏼👍🏼 thanks 🙏🏽

2/4/4 is the setup. What issues are you having? What is peak RPM?

For sure! This is online and available to purchase now. We have a 3-5 day lead time as we ramp up production. -Mike

@@aftermarketassassins5491 I gotta save up first.

Our stryker belt is what we suggest. This is the 1186 part number which we found to work much better as it does not as easily hit the inner clutch cover at full shift. aftermarketassassins.com/products/ols/products/aa-stryker-belt-for-rzr-xpt-turbo-s-rs1-pro-xp-turbo-r

Our tuning will desensitize the 1127 codes, but if there is a true issue with the vehicle, it will still set the code as this is a major safety factor for your RZR. This is a good read: aftermarketassassins.com/tech-blog/f/rzr-xp-turbo-boost-overboost-low-boost-waste-gate-adjustments

No, this would not cause high engagement of the clutch. The OEM spring should engage as low as ours. Make sure the clutch is assembled correctly and that the weights are moving freely on the pins. As per our instructions, a small dab of high temp grease should be used on the weight ID where the pin goes into. Thanks!

Hi. The E85 tune is a separate tune we have to build, so it would need to be purchased. You will also need our 1200cc injectors. If going this route, the current tune you have will not run on the 1200cc injectors, so most purchase the level 3 (205hp, 91-93 octane) and level 5 (E85) for the 1200cc injectors. See here: aftermarketassassins.com/products/ols/products/aa-custom-tunes-pvcx-for-canam-x3-120hp Thanks!

You would need the tune to run launch control or you would go into misfire protection. So flash first, then install the LC. Thanks!

@@aftermarketassassins5491 Thank you! And a stage 3 tune for a Turbo R will do fine right?

@@bigsmoothhh2 Yep, they rip on level 3! We do suggest clutching, blow off valve, and exhaust for that level.

@@aftermarketassassins5491 Sounds good, I have an RPM blow off valve, RPM J-tubes, intake, charge tubes, and a RPM cut out exhaust but no clutching so I will add that to the list

With the tuner plugged in (to a computer or the RZR with the key on), go to Flash Tune and this will show all available tunes that are compatible with your ECU. If they are our tunes, they will begin with either LEV or L followed by a number. This is your tune level. EX: LEV1 or L1 would be a Level 1 tune, LEV2 or L2 would be a Level 2 tune, etc.

@@aftermarketassassins5491 thank you. They were through dyno tune

I meant Dyno Jet tunes.

Also any videos or tips on how to change the primary spring and weights without removal?

Hey! This is for the Ranger 1000 dual cam. It will not fit the single cam model as the mounting is just slightly different.

Tune has been listed online for a week or better now. See here: aftermarketassassins.com/products/ols/products/2024-polaris-xpedition-aa-ecu-flash Been busy but I'll get on some videos soon. Exhaust will be a little while out, but we are working on it!

What model vehicle do you have?

@@aftermarketassassins5491 2022 Turbo R

Did you remove the inner baffle as per the instructions? This is the black plastic piece bolted into the inner(aluminum) clutch cover.

There's many videos saying it throttle sensitivity

@@andyjones5602 thank you, I would've bet some money that it was for the suspension,

Switch is not for suspension at all. It’s purely throttle . These have FOX QS3 shocks. 3 meaning you have 3 click pistons on the Shock you manual handle just the same as the many years these FOx Qs3 shocks have had on the market. They did change the shock internals on this particular design.

Why doesn't anyone talk about the noise. How quiet or noisy are they inside and out. 🤷‍♂️

@@mikegunn3152 very true. That’s the main reason I never went with a rmax. Those things are too loud. I had a krx and it was too loud for me and my 3 year old to talk. The Facebook groups are saying it’s pretty loud. Around 96 db when cruising

Unfortunately they are very noisy inside the cab. Check out our tech article for some of the fixes/suggestions we have for reducing in-cab noise: aftermarketassassins.com/tech-blog/f/polaris-xpedition-noise-reduction-common-issues

Sorry it will not work with your year/model.

10-12psi is about as far as we like to go as the throw is also being shortened.

Good questions for sure! Go off of your sheet. Within the newest setups on the Pro R model, we found heel weight to work best. For your tires, I would suggest removing 1 magnet from the hole position 1(heel). That should work great and always make sure to check peak RPM. Thanks!

@@aftermarketassassins5491 Thanks for the quick reply awesome customer service!!!

The bed is fully usable and installed in our kit. See here: aftermarketassassins.com/products/ols/products/aa-pro-r-4-cylinder-turbo-kit Thanks!

that is not normal, no. This is a taper fit and should be very tight.... needing the puller to pop it off with good force from an impact gun.

No good! We've not had this happen, so no direct experience.... but in other applications we use a shoulder bolt. Welding an new peg on would also work... if you can get to the back side.