Відео

If you have a pool cleaner that shares the plumbing from the pump before it goes into the filter, then yes he is right. But otherwise I don’t see how that is necessary. If there is a problem with the DE filter, then the water will become cloudy and you can usually see the DE powder coming back through the pool jets right after you backwash.

My kids would have loved to try that

It’s leaking from white air intake at compressor

That’s bad. It usually indicates that the copper tubes that make up the heat exchanger have developed holes. And the water is filling up the burner compartment

We have had that happen before. Depending on the heater year, some of them were studs that could be tapped out and replaced. It can turn into hours of unexpected work. Once things get rusty enough to break, it’s usually time to replace the unit.

@@Pool-guy thanks for the info, only had the unit for 7 years.

@@1981tave salt pool?

@@Pool-guy in ground DE filter chlorine

@@1981tave ok, well they usually last longer than that. I was thinking it may have been salt as they corrode really fast when a leak develops. Hopefully you can get it fixed without having to replace.

I would suggest you check voltage to the dim lights. Then turn them on individually if possible. It would be odd to have two go out at the same time

Best I could get was that they are aphids, from the tree just overhanging the pool. There was also a sticky substance on the deck under the tree. We bumped up the chlorine level and they were gone. I think mostly because the tree cleared up and stopped producing the sticky substance.

Glad to help

When you say they failed, I am assuming that the gears stop turning. I am wondering if you are not allowing it enough time to complete the cycle. I think it cycles every 1-2 minutes

@@Pool-guy disregard. I had new one installed backwards. Old one was broken gear teeth. Thanks for prompt response.

@@dcd19622 thanks for the follow up. Glad you got it going.

Glad to do so. Have a great summer

Glad you got a good laugh today. It’s amazing how that bug with a tail transforms into a 4 legged frog. Only God couldn’t do something so marvelous. Hope you have a great summer.

It’s not much different overall. There are three pipes to connect. One from the pump to the filter. One from the filter to the heater or to the return if no heater. And the third pipe goes to the backwash or waste pipe. So only one additional pipe to take care of.

@Pool-guy thanks Steve. Please let me know if you service customets near Frisco.

Glad to help

Hi Justin The remote in the video is a Jandy RS controller. Just about any of the controllers will work with the heater. If you don’t have automation to automatically turn the pool/spa valves then it’s not necessary to connect the remote wires. You can simply turn the heater on and off with its own control panel. I hope that helps,

Call Hayward and have the walk you through the corrections. May be something in the new software.

For testing chlorine, I prefer the Taylor test kit with DPD powder. You can get a very accurate test down to .2 parts per milion and can accurately read higher than 20 or 30 ppm Here is the Amazon link for the DPD powder and you would use the regular test kit test tube for 10 ML amzn.to/3L4PYuq

The repair is usually not to bad.

Right. The Water enters the front and exits the top

@@Pool-guy Thanks man. We recently got a pool, & one of these pumps is for a waterfall feature. They plumbed it BACKWARDS. Then it didn't want to run... anyway I plumbed it correctly, and had to use my drill to spin it while humming, but now I have it up and running. Thank you for the video and response!!

Oh man that stinks, but at least you’re getting some great experience

@@Pool-guy I am! Thanks for the video.

@@Pool-guy Well, I just reversed the intake/output, so they're correct. But the pump only humms for a few moments before "kicking out" (I hear a click, & it stops humming.) Think maybe a wire is loose inside? Maybe one of the 110 lines? I'll investigate now...

@@daakrolb I would suggest pulling the plastic cap off of the back of the motor to expose the shaft. Then when you turn it on, if the shaft is spinning, then your problem is most likely the impeller is broken. It’s very common with this pump we have replaced lots and lots of the impellers they sheer off during operation.

@@Pool-guy Thank you. My shaft doesn't spin when powered on. Just buzzes.... I can spin it manually- it isn't seized. This pump has also never been run. Also- to be 100 % sure- the OUTPUT of the pump is the port that goes UP, right??

Thats why we make these videos, to help people learn how to fix their own stuff. Thanks for watching

@@Pool-guy just noticed the channel name lmao thanks 👍

Here is a video for setting up jacuzzi variable speed pump. Hope it helps ua-cam.com/video/P4XS4Hb8_TA/v-deo.htmlsi=9RR1tdmTvsjyKYM0

Oh man! I’ve been called back one time when the filter blew up right after I left. Was a bit humbling and also gave me a whole new appreciation for the power under the lid of that thing.

Flip it back to pool and it will refill on its own. Then check your automatic valves to make sure they both work. Do this by putting it in spa mode. Both valves should turn. If only one does, then check the toggle switch to see if it got bumped to the off position.

The new bulb goes in between them

At 2:17 when I replace the circuit board the black and white wires are moved into place. If you look at your board you will see the two tabs where they plug in. Take a pic of the old one before disassembly and reassemble accordingly. Thanks for the comment

There is a black and a white. And it will Become obvious as you are taking the old one apart. But just in case you aren’t the one taking it apart, there are two tabs on the pc board where the wires connect

Check the temp sensor for the pool controller. The one that plugs into the pipe may be bad. If you have normal flow and there is water moving in the spa then it’s likely one of the sensors

Looks like family swim time. Don’t usually have so many in there together

It’s not difficult at all. Grab a 1/4” and 5/16 nut driver and start removing screws. The top and walls all come apart. It’s actually pretty cool and you will see the engineering involved in the design.

Confirm that you have gas, using a meter. If you have gas and the heater is going through the ignition cycle then check the igniter. Just leave it in place and touch it after the cycle, it should be warm to the touch if it’s working. But im leaning towards the gas first

Thanks for the feedback and glad the video was helpful

So many memories of guys getting hosed by cleaners. Myself included, good times

That sounds like the pool motor may be bad. Check voltage at the timer on the load side and also on the back of the motor too. Both should have 320- 240v when on

So if you have power to the motor and it doesn’t work, then you have a bad motor

Glad it helped, often that’s what I find

It was a good idea in my head, but didn’t quite turn out so nice.

Make sure the learn mode is selected on the antenna. You will have to open it up and flip the switch. The. Try it again. If it still doesn’t work, you may have to replace it. Keep in mind that the new remotes don’t pair with old antennas. So if you get a new remote. Get the antenna too.