Відео

@@gregmulfort9577 nice work that should do it. I think if you do a shallow till it’s not the worst thing in the world for the soil. You can still build organic matter.

@@perrybowers344 I tilled it first- then seeded

Thanks for sharing that, just curious was that fertilizer you were spreading prior to discing?

@@perrybowers344 yes

@@RJ-qq8kb waited just a few days for the area I did disc. That seemed to help

@@northernforestwhitetail May I ask what disc you use? Atv? Tractor?

@@RJ-qq8kb you bet- I have an ATV style disc with adjustable gangs

@@northernforestwhitetail pic?

@@RJ-qq8kb it’s an ancient old thing. Not even sure who makes it. But it’s nice that you can adjust the angle of the gangs on it

@@user-dg2qt2hg2l thanks

@@anthonyg6924 thanks!

@@chriswigington1572 we are glad to have you in the hunting community. A hunting funnel is any type of land feature that guides a confluence of deer movement into a confined area. For example, an hour-glass shaped high ground area surrounded by swamp would funnel deer thru the skinny pinch. Maybe it’s a bottle neck area of clear cut that has a lot of rut sign. It could be a swamp island that attracts deer. I’ve got a couple videos on this that go into more detail on my channel if you want to watch those. Good luck 👍

@@northernforestwhitetail thank u! I will be checking out your other videos!

Thanks- honestly I’m not sure on the hybrid willow question

@@timothylongmore7325 nice work. Yeah it really doesn’t pay to transplant the bigger ones. They just sit there and take longer to get going than the smaller ones. I do like that they sit above the tall grass though. Keep up the good work!

@@northernforestwhitetail Thanks you too. I tried to buy some but they were sold out. Just as well I didn't want a mono-culture of yuppie christmas trees. I wanted natives and semi-natives somewhat in rows but I don't intend to farm them all , just trim up the ones for sale and let native plants fill in the empty spots. As you mentioned this is to wall off my hunting area from nosey neighbors also.

@@PhilandAlex sounds like a cool homestead you’ve got. Ideally, you would plant before a rain, to soak the seeds and hay good. If you are getting adequate rainfall, you won’t need to water. If you are in a drought, you may want to water it if you have the ability. Good luck!

@@northernforestwhitetail thank you for your response! Appreciate it. Rain coming tomorrow night so will plan accordingly.

@@wcb5890 I realize that. The problem is I don’t own a no-till drill and in my sandy soil if I only broadcast seeds on top of soil, I get poor germination. Some type of scarification or soil cover is needed for me to get germination.

@@courtneyearl1 exactly- can’t beat it!

@@johnhardin5168 this is a blend of mostly sorghum with a small amount of Egyptian wheat. It’s the “Barricade” brand bag that’s orange

@@northernforestwhitetail who sells it?

@@johnhardin5168 antler king antlerking.com/product/barricade/?gad_source=1&gbraid=0AAAAAoTXH8kii1XAKoHthTzLbXS6b6KNb&gclid=CjwKCAjw4ri0BhAvEiwA8oo6F13nKtdIDWgMzuoECajyWamJ738buehAf0jZMYNHd3B-5_Jp9budwRoCjWEQAvD_BwE

@@jameslissaman8331 this started flowering about two weeks ago. That would put early flower stage at about 5 weeks of plant growth since we planted it. I don’t have any other info on beehives or stocking rates or anything.

@@dylanlundin8594 thanks!

@@kendallfeia8234 hey thanks for the note- yeah I don’t want my exact location pinpointed but I’m in between Bemidji and Hibbing. I tend to plant my brassicas mid July and that seems to work well.

@@patriot1182 thanks for the note- that’s really interesting to hear your grew the same way out east… wonder why that would be. Possibly cooler temps this summer too? Thanks for watching!

@@kylemathewson1191 congrats buddy I hope you reach your dream of owning land soon! It’s tough swimming against the current but once you get your own piece of land it’s more than worth it

Exactly

I do the same thing on sandy soil here in central MN. But I use Buckwheat & then when it comes to full maturity I let it seed naturally during the driest time of the summer. Much less weeds that way & u never have to bring weed seeds to the surface goes thar sand that was tilled years ago doesn't need it again. The most important part of doing Buckwheat this way is to plant a clover/brassica blend that favors forage radishes rather than turnips. Turnips which aren't as efficient ➕️ they take up too much space & stunt themselves when the seed is too thick. I like to plant this the 1st week of August when there's a likelihood that we will be getting rain. I always broadcast fall seed & come back a couple of day b4 a rain & flatten the Buckwheat which is probably easier to do than rye. More bees & butterflies around during the summer also. This is important since milkweed is evidently on the endangered list in my area. 😮

It’s kinda nice to have the rye mower it makes a great mulch on the plot

Good to know. I left half my rye. I plan to let that side go to viability then just run my disc thru it to restart rye again for this fall (no mowing). Thanks for the idea 👍

Not sure on the brand of my disc. Got it at a flea market years ago. Thing works great. I bought a groundhog max a few years ago and used it one season. Then sold it due to the wear and tear on my wheeler. I’m with you that I’m not a fan of the groundhog max.

Yeah on part of my plot I’ll be planting turnips and I shoot for a mid July planting for those. Another part I’ll put into a mix of oats, radish, and winter peas (early August planting date). The third strip I’ll be doing winter rye with red clover (early August planting date). I’m up in northern MN and our average first frost date is September 19 so I’m planting everything usually two-ish weeks earlier than anywhere else. What do you have planned for plots this year?

Thanks!

Yeah, you’re right. I disced it more as a demonstration for the video so folks could see how the whole process works. But ideally I would have left the rye thatch on the undisturbed ground then disced it under once I was ready to plant my fall plot. Thanks for watching and good comment- I should have made that point in the video.

Hey thanks Louis!

This rye can really take a pounding from the deer so you don’t need a big plot. I hope you can scratch together some dollars and maybe some day buy another chunk! I dream of buying more land some day

Thanks- my target plant date for my turnips will be mid July; for my Radish, oats, winter pea combo I’m shooting for first week of August, for my rye and red clover patch, I’m doing mid August. I’m up in northern MN where our first frost date on average is September 19th. Earlier that most all of the rest of the the country. What about yourself??

Hey thanks!

hoss

HOSSINGTON

Thanks! Yeah we are lucky to have some big boys around here. I never did catch up to that buck in the video. Hoping he is back this year. Will get cameras out soon.

I’m going to do turnips on approx half my plot (mid July planting time) then on a different portion I’m going a mix of oats, radish, and winter peas (early August planting) . And lastly I’m keeping an area in winter rye with red clover (early to mid August planting). Keep in mind my first frost date average is September 19th so I plant a tad earlier than most of the country. What about you?

Yeah that’s a good method (broadcast seed into standing buckwheat then smash it down) if you have good soil. If you are in real sandy soils, you will get lower germination rates that way. If in sandy soil, I’d mow the buckwheat, then disc it, then broadcast seed and drag in and cultipak. Good luck!

Thanks!

Burning is a good option but that does carry a little risk during fire season in the spring for us. We usually can’t burn up here most springs. But good idea

I haven’t no just because I don’t have one. But I bet that would work fine

If you plant winter rye in the spring/early summer, it won’t get very tall or seed out that first year. It needs a winter freeze cycle to release it the following spring. Then it will get tall and seed out. So you may not be real happy with the results that first summer. You could consider grain sorghum instead for an early summer planting. That gets 3’-4’ tall and provides structure/cover. It also produces a large seed head which the deer and turkey will hammer in the fall.

@@northernforestwhitetail I wondered if a spring planting would be enough time to produce a viable seed head, but that makes sense! I just don’t see a lot of information on other planting seasons for rye other than a fall planting, it made me curious. So stick to the standard fall planting in preparation for the following spring is the best bet!! Thank you! I planted Sorghum and sunflowers up against the road for screening and working on the soil and to honestly see how it grows. I’m Enjoying this learning process! Hoping to put in switchgrass there in a year or two.

Thanks. On half of it I’ll let my rye seed go to viability. Just let it yellow up and stand there until I’m ready to start it over with pure rye again. I’ll just mow then tine drag and possibly add a little more seed. On the other half, I’ll mow in the dough stage to terminate the rye plants without viable seeds. In that half I’m doing radish, oats, winter peas and clover planted in about first week of August. That’s my early season mix. Will tine drag that side too in order to get a little soil cover over those large seeds.

What is your termination method and what will you plant into yours?

We light tilled to terminate the rye but wonder if we just planted weed seeds again turning the soil. Planting a variety of small plots. One block is similar to yours as I planted buckwheat which I will terminate 1st part of August and and then plant John Komps Northwoods Whitetail NWS Green Forage Blend (forage soybeans,forage peas,frost tolerant oats with some red clover and radish mixed in). Also trying a block of sugerbeets, a block of sunflower, and a block of grain sorghum. I'm also trying to plant for pheasant habitat with a couple of these plots in central MN.

@@jasonmeyer4587 I like your setup this year 👍. I thought of light tilling too if there are too many weeds. That would terminate the weeds plus add a little soil over the big seeds I plant. I’m not too worried about bringing up new weed seeds in late summer. Seems like if you kill them in late July or August very few come back due to how late in the growing season it is.

Yeah the branch whirls can get multiple branches which can fork during one growing season

It’s better to do a “less frequent, deep watering” than to do a “more frequent, shallow watering”. Meaning, water once a week if it’s dry and soak them good. That will encourage downward root growth as the tree tries to chase the water down into the soil column. Will promote deeper roots that way. If you water daily but only a little at a time, that will encourage roots to stay up by the surface. I personally don’t use any potting soil or mulch. I just make the transplant and let them go. Some folks will use fertilizer stakes (buy at a Menards or something place like that) and I know they have encouraged faster growth that way.

Thank you!

Some folks use the fertilizer stakes and swear by them

Interesting- thanks for sharing

Thanks- I appreciate you watching