Відео

Bro you are the epitome of the word useless

3 months is up, time for a follow-up video :D

Po prostu nie umiesz się nim posługiwać, używasz go do nieodpowiednich dla niego celów.

xiaomi lovers' heart shattered into pieces and they use sub accounts to fight back

PTM7950

PTM7950.

I had a top of the line 2017 with the i7 16gb ram and 512gm, still supper slow, the motherboard died on me, but I got an m3 cpu with 16gb replacement mother board, and tbh as soon as I did the thermal mod on it which actually bridge the gap between the cpu/gpu and the bottom case and use it to cool it down, it actually works perfectly and never overheats no matter what I do! as a basic laptop to get you buy and watch some youtube videos, it's not terrible, I do have a gaming pc and a much more powerful Macbook pro, but I always seem to grab this one out of all my mac collection lol.

I think you should buy dewalt 18v screwdriver.

The title of the video should be: "This is why I should quit making youtube videos!" 😂😂

Chloe Lee. If you are not sick and tired of this process, you may find joy in a product known as DriftIce. I run two 2080 ti hybrid evga cards. Both cards are running with the DriftIce installed on the memory. I could not be happier with the results. I contacted evga and they gave me all of the pad sizes that I would need for my card. My memory and gpu core never get over 50 degrees celcius. Full disclosure, I do use liquid metal for gpu core cooling.

Can i use this in my cellphone?

eemmh, did you apply the liquidmetal on both cpu and cooler plate?, i mean not separatedly when you opened again.., you have to apply on both surfaces.

What's wrong with this guy??

i still love my 2017Macbook punches above it's weight except for getting rock a short battery life

I love the xgimi elfin, if the horizon is an upgrade like it's supposed to be from the elfin then it's great

bros fondoling a macbook

You should show what you did instead of telling it

Why are you leaving the other cpu die (io? video?) bare? You need to put some on both dies. Idk why you keep leaving it bare

Improving the thermal conductivity of the RAM results in more heat in the sink and that may elevate the temperature of the core.

We are wating fodmr result thNks mam

Muller Causeway

Jana Island

A lot of cards had issue running in that position. They just run hotter. Vapor chamber design is not very bright. Initially all GPU could run like that which is same position as in servers. But now, like 15 year ago, they changed fin orientation vapor chamber design and heatsink which make them to run cooler in horizontal position . With all that they still push a trend with riser cables, like there is no tomorrow. Try horizontal position for your GPU and shove it in a well cooled case. Fractal Torrent Compact is a good air cooled case. Dust around power delivery is too much. Is strange that you look at the performance of you pads but, you ignore details like - dust is a fair thermal insulator and with the right humidity level in your room will throw some small shorts all over PCBs and you'll find yourself troubleshooting unexplained errors in any OS and waste your time greatly. Don't be afraid of copper shims, they can't conduct any electricity cause simply can't escape the mounting pressure you apply when you re assemble your card. And don't use individual squares for each module, is counterproductive. Some memory modules run hotter than others, proximity to GPU or power delivery, bad design plating or heatsinks, faults in vapor chambers, bad plating and inconsistency. Basically you want to disperse the heat as fast as you can. Simply you have a bigger surface of copper or ceramic responsible to take the heat from VRAM and send it to the heatsink. In fact, with little squares is higher risk to escape the mounting pressure than with let's say, a shim that covers 4 modules. I've done my self several mods with copper shims and plates, even changed the stupid back plates of plastic or aluminum painted/ stickers and other crap with whole bare copper backplates. 8-15 C lower on VRAM. Never shorted a single card. 100 C I consider critical on VRAM specially where you have Hynix and Micron chips. Samsung chips tend to be more heat resistant but, is not enough info to staple that. I really don't care whatever manufacturer is saying that 110 C is safe on VRAM they never say for how long, 1 month, 4 months, 24/7 use or less?? IS plain BS!!!! the number of cards with artifacts I've seen, is sickening, caused by VRAM is huge specially starting with 2000 series onwards. Client is calling when is nothing can be done anymore because VRAM is gone 1 chip or 6 chips , who cares, card is dead or artifacts. The problem is why client did not called? - he believed the manufacturer >>>> 100 is safe or 110C is normal. Now the manufacturer sells another card. Work as intended. Hop[e it helps

There are professional laptops that you can call work stations. Are heavy, sturdy and most of them only have vapor chambers as cooling. None you'll find on the market for the end user will be that. Will cost you some thousands but, will last you as much as 5 of this gaming OLED **** The point is: you work at your desk anyway... why the laptop? I really can't see the point and I'm gonna call out the disadvantages. 1.Sweaty palms because of the heat coming trough keyboard. 2. Constant high pitched fan noise. Why high pitched? are just thin fans compared with desktop fans which are thicker and does not need high RPMs to cool down the parts. Those thicker desktop fans got a more pleasant humming noise and is way far from your ears. You can even sound proof the case. This issue alone is causing so much stress and disruption in your work and it does it on your own will and money. 3. Risk to spill drinks and mess up a lot of parts inside the laptop. On a desktop 4. Need to replace battery fast cause you need high power and you are constantly plugged to AC, that will were out your battery fast. 5. Bloat ware and spyware constantly hinder again your productivity. Again delivered to you by the manufacturer on your own money and waste of time after that. Unnecessary hardware and power usage, caused by that "mighty software suites designed to help you" Even you install a fresh copy of Win you breaking other things which I'm not getting into. I can fill up way more points along with the ones you mention. I fixed enough laptops to tell you is not worth it, your money and your time. Are just overated toys design for very short "planned obsolescence" . The only solution(I mean, a cheaper one) is a desktop and a normal laptop to transport and show your work or whatever. Hope it helps

Buys a couple of projectors and is an expert. Ive been using dlp projectors since before you were in nappies. I was looking for reviews on this projector. Yours doesn't sound like one. Sounds like someone with an serious issues with themselves

If you want great thermal paste use IC Diamond Thermal Compound FYI Purified synthetic diamond has a thermal conductivity of 2,000-2,500 W/mK, I change all my graphic cards and use this, it makes thermal grizzly stuff look bad

I read that ‘wobbily’ plug at source is a design choice to eliminate the chance of it breaking (something about that). same thing on steam deck

Your problem is that the heatsink "eating" up your liquid metal since it's surface isn't solid. Do another run and you should see better results

i only use liquid metal on nickel plated copper. the nickel plating prevents the copper from turning bad like at 0:25 after using it on bare copper for 6 months, i had to scrub it off the copper and then polish the copper with sand paper and a polish to make it flat again. its not worth it on bare copper and it will degrade way to quick. and for a laptop i would anyways use those thermal grizzly minus pads, which have to be never swapped out again and they perform better then thermal paste. (but they are quite expensive)

i simply did a copper shim mod u can put copper shims on the vrams, with thermal glue tape. and depending on how thick ur copper shims are, u can either put a bit of thermal paste or a 0.5mm thermal pad on top, to connect it to ur main cooler.

Who learn you to use liquid metal on copper heatsink? How did you pass the chemistry lab? Thermal Grizzly Conductonaut contains Galium and that one, my friend reacts with Copper and Aluminium, you know? Obviously you don't, as your video shows!.. You need a heatsink that is plated with Nickel!

As someone who was team liquid metal for nearly 6 years, don't use liquid metal on laptops. Most will be fine with it, but some just won't be compatible with it no matter how much effort you put into it without outright replacing the heatsink with something custom. I used to use it on all of my laptops until for some reason despite significant effort put into isolation some got loose after ~2 years and fried the vrm. Unlucky but leaves a bad taste when the other ~35 applications went perfectly fine. Fixed it eventually (micro soldering board repair is hard AF) but lesson learned. Some heatsinks aren't designed for it and attempting to create your own isolation barrier using just some foam and kapton tape doesn't cut it. Needs to be solid, essentially waterproof layer of tape around the die to guarantee no issues, plus you have to apply enough to account for the galvanization. You'll eventually run into problems with it with some laptop. I estimate failure rates of ~1-2%. So it may literally take ~50-100+ laptops before you personally run into an issue. But you WILL run into an issue eventually. To resolve all of that hassle with a very very close to 0% failure rate (probably around 1 in 100k), just slap a PCM on it and call it a day. Honeywell 7950, laird 7000, or other formulations of it unisiren pcm-1, thermal grizzy pcm, etc... It's not as good as a perfect application of liquid metal yes, but it has a service life you can measure in DECADES instead of months and will instantly shoot to the top of a thermal paste comparison chart (after about 6+ months) due to just how incredibly resistant to pump out it is. TLDR: Only use PCM based thermal interfaces on bare dies!

Where did you buy yours? I bought some on amazon last year and uts worked pretty decent and i barely found put a week ago thet my razer blade 15 stays around the 85-90 degrees C range even after I cleaned the fans and heatsink (there was barely any dust in either)

with normal thermal paste, do you notice any pump out effect with gd900? i bought areonaut from TG, that scored well at first before dropping to 3000, i then got syy157 which got me upto 3470 but that then dropped within 1 week to 3200, when i take the heat sink off the thermal paste appears to be milky and watery, not really a viscous paste anymore, is that normal with these macbooks?

dont buy macbook air there is no fans in 2024.... wtf

bro apply again after one month and no need to worry about whole year and also use conformal coating & Kapton tape and only thin layer you should apply after that one final coat just like thin paint and don't make any bubble

To anyone wondering, don't even consider liquid metal as a thermal interface. Use PTM 7950/7958, or Laird TPCM.

cool!

i've been using liquid metal for nearly a decade now, and in all my applications, all due to reasons others have detailed below, required a 2nd application of LM after about 6 months from the initial application. now i use kryosheets from thermal grizzly.

I don't agree. I have the same computer with an i7 processor, it works great. It has macOS and Windows installed, both operating systems work great. Internet search, Office, UA-cam 4k and many other things. The battery lasts a very long time, sometimes all day. This computer is ideal for office and home work. If you need something more, you have the MacBook Pro.

No you didn't get scammed, gallium which is part of the LM alloy will eventually diffuse into cooper leaving the indium behind which becomes solid; That's why it's better to use it with nickel plated heatsink in order for it to work long term. But even then electroless nickel that is used by most nickel plated PC parts is too thin and again it will diffuse through. I electroplated my 6900xt oem heatsink to 0.1mm nickel plating thickness and 2 years later no issues with "drying". Eventually it will diffuse though this one too. I started using LM more than 10 years ago in my laptop that's why i know all these now. In fact i make my own LM compound, which is much cheaper if you use it often. In fact it will last me more than a lifetime. edit: Regarding to PTM7950 i haven't use it personally yet, but no it will not last forever and it won't perform as good as LM. In your laptop heatsink it will be ~5oC difference is my guess because your heatsink is very "weak" so you are not limited so much by the TIM. What makes PTM7950 so good is that it doesn't pump out like regular paste and is also very good thermally conductive compared to other good pastes.

yo idk if you know this or not but ptm7950 is a good alternative to liquid metal

As another commenter said, the liquid metal seeped into the copper heatsink. This is expected behavior when applied to a bare copper heatsink. When this happens, apply more liquid metal and do *not* polish or try to remove what has already mixed into the copper. This second application will hold for much much longer (possibly forever). Nickel plated copper heatsinks don't have this problem and the liquid metal lasts effectively forever on those. If it "evaporated" then every PS5 sold would be an overheating mess.

It's your responsibility to check the settings before you use your equipment. You destroyed your stuff because of a stupid mistake you made. If you're working with tiny threads and screws, you can buy tape to put in between your screwdriver and the tip of the screw to give you more torque.

liquid metal isnt evaporate. just sipped into copper. you only need to reapply once more and you are set for years a tip for someone wanna try LM. apply LM to heatsink a generous amount and let it there for about 3 days. the gallium will form a layer of GaCu2 on the surface of the copper heatsink. then wip clean and apply LM normally -> put back to the laptop. this layer of GaCu2 will prevent Ga sipping into Cu again. making the performace last nearly forever

👀

The need to bring this back with an M chip

You should check out PTM7950 it wont damage your deviceand you get like a 10C improvement.

PTM7950. I got it. Please stop mentioning it in EVERY DAMN COMMENT!

Try ptm7950 it make good contact, will not damage your device it and you don't need to change it out occasionally like paste. I used it on my laptop and it make 10C improve from artic mx-4. Hope that helps.