Відео

While I'm not an trained expert, I've heard that disconnecting the aux battery will disable the stop/start. If the aux battery is bad, I read that you should disconnect it to avoid it draining the main battery.

You don't actually change the salt, you keep adding to it. The salt is used to flush/recharge the resin beads. Then the salt is flushed out the drain. How often you add salt is dependent on the hardness setting, the hardness of your water, and how much water you use. The resin beads usually last the life of the softener.

The dealers are such rip-offs. Cars are getting so complex, that you don't have a choice in many cases. Any many times, they can't figure it out. But I avoid dealers at all costs. My rule for electrical issues is to replace the battery first. A battery is a lot cheaper than the dealer diagnostics fee from the dealer; $200-500. And many times, the battery solves the problem

After looking at the information and disinformation out there, I believe the BMS monitors the battery and charging system volts and amps for the main purpose of a slight improvement in fuel mileage; via the ECM. It has a direct function on the auto stop/start; unplugging the BMS will disable it. Apparently, it is part of the system to control (reduce) the charging voltage. The higher the charging voltage, the more drag on engine, and reduced hp and fuel economy. (Not that we would notice). So, you are correct; the BMS doesn't share info with us on what it is doing.

Want some cheese with that whine....? If you don't like it, sell it and buy something else 🤷

I'm glad it helped!

Thank you!

That's not a bad idea. If I get a bad coil, I definitely replace them all. But, they are pretty costly! I decided to take my chances.

I never gave it any thought. I would guess the restriction of the water softener is insignificant. I'm on a well and have a well tank. The water pressure will normally vary several psi during normal operation of the well and the tank. That being said, pretty much any device in the water flow (including pipe and fittings) will affect water flow and pressure.

@ I wouldn’t think that it is bothered much, but there’s always wonder!

HaHa! That answers the question of what happens if you install it backwards! I don't use my Hitachi too often, but it's hanging in there!

@@robertveldman1901 I use mine a lot for small jobs as long as the batteries keep holding a charge I won't replace them

Crazy isn't it. I can just imagine the number of people that have tapped the "down" several times to incorrectly dim the lights, when in fact, they just turned off the remote switch!

Glad it helped!

Sorry, I don't know how long. You're into something I've never experienced. I'll certainly remember that Rheem told you it was OK to use bleach.

Haven't thought about it yet! When is the recommended time/mileage? We're at 32,000 miles today.

@robertveldman1901 my Aviator is at 50k.just got it.

According to the Lincoln service schedule spark plugs should be changed at 100K miles

I’m not sure if there are any Aviator specific versions posted, but once you get the plastic covers off of your Aviator engine bay the process should be about the same as its platform mate, the Ford Explorer ST. It looks to be a real pain

EZGO 602529 Charging Port $28 delivered: Golf Cart Charger Receptacle 48V EZ GO TXT/RXV QDeltaQ www.ebay.com/itm/395276150438 Ryobi plug $60 delivered (last one): Homelite / Ryobi 316265001 CHARGING RECEPTACLE 48 V www.ebay.com/itm/266770872020 My video to change the port to EZGO ua-cam.com/video/Bdj0e7xY3vU/v-deo.html

The water softener only gets cold water. The water heater is further "downstream"

@ I got it thanks a lot for ur help really appreciate appreciated

Sorry to hear that. While I don't necessarily recommend it, I found it to be a decent blower for a lower cost two stage. It's not that different in design than my much older Craftsman. The Craftsman lost the front gear box, which I rebuilt. And replaced a few other wear parts.

omg!😆

The only programming on the gage is for the %. The volts and amps should work fine on the gage. If you are saying the mower doesn't "start" (move or blades), then you may need a "pre-Charger" installed. I didn't need one, so it's not discussed in my original swap videos. Please see this video for information that may help: ua-cam.com/video/WQ-h3viwIvM/v-deo.html

I have installed the gage- what should I see.... I currently only see - volts - 53.42 - amp 0.013 - ah 0.000 - 0.0%

@@Steven-uc2kt the voltage looks good. does the mower run?

@@robertveldman1901yes everything is working prefect- I indeed needed the pre charger but am confused on the use of this gage and what it's suppose to do...

@@Steven-uc2kt OK, thank goodness it all works. The old gage works well with the old lead acid batteries, but not so well on LiFePo4 batteries. The new gage will be more accurate. You will need to set-up the % on the new gage. Check the instructions. I would recommend using "Method 2: After fully charging the battery, press the '%' button to display the percentage (probably 0%). Then hold the '%' button down for 3 seconds to set the full capacity to display 100%". You can also search UA-cam for videos on setting up the gage.

Be very careful with the manifold studs/nuts. Maybe invest in a propane torch. Good Luck

@ got a propane torch and gave it a try. Just snapped the one of the studs on the front pipe connection. May take to a local shop.

@@phawkplyr Sorry to hear that

@ that’s the name of the game! Appreciate the video

That's what a lot of people have done. I have two cars with auto stop/start. I can't stand it.

​@@robertveldman1901I'm actually leaving Walmart right now getting a replacement warranty battery. I put in a 4-year warranty AGM h6 2 years ago and it's dead already. Walmart just warranted it and gave me a new one so I am covered for another 2 years. the Pacifica doesn't get driven much these days so that's probably contributing to the dead battery.

@@GrabberBlue5.2 Yes, I'm also convinced that cars that aren't driven much will have worse battery life. I'm pretty sure modern cars have stuff running in the background when turned off, that run down the battery (until the BMS shuts it off).

It's not bad. I also did a video using an oil sucker. That works nice on the Aviator, since the oil filter is on top.

There's a couple things about K&N filters... I've actually had two of them on two cars. So, based on my limited experience and some research: One: They can increase the air flow and horsepower, but I believe they do do this by sacrificing filtration; the allow more "dirty" air thru. Two: The K&N filter depends on oil to trap the dirt. It can be difficult to control the amount of oil you apply. And the worst thing is the oil gets vaporized and will deposit the oil on your MAF sensor. The MAF sensor has a built-in heater, and the heat bakes the oil onto the sensor, and causes the sensor to malfunction; car idles and runs terrible. (And no check engine light!) The good news is the sensor can be cleaned with MAF cleaner, once you find the sensor. Both my cars were fixed with MAF cleaner. That being said, go ahead and use the K&N filter, but be aware of the risks; more dirty air and dirty MAF sensor.

Happy it helped!

It shouldn't be necessary to flush out your lines after a recharge. I never have.

@robertveldman1901 I went ahead and did it for 6-7 minutes. This stuff is acid, and I'm terrified of harsh chemicals. But thank you for your reply 👍🏻

@@amandamarkisen2120 I'm not an expert; just a guy with a water softener. The Rheem cleaner does contain the weak acid; phosphoric acid, which is also used in soda. I'm pretty sure that most of it is flushed out during the recharge cycle. Pretty sure. It certainly can't hurt to flush your lines, but you'll probably want to run the cold water for the flush. Don't forget that you have a 40-50 gallon water heater. Of course that much hot water would also further dilute any acid.

I designed automotive parts for most of my career, but always intrigued with how other products are designed. My goal was also how to make parts easier to manufacture; a challenge for many product designers. Thanks for commenting, and nice work!

Why is so complicated to get it started and run 🤦 as engineer it's confusing n overcomplicated

Glad to help

I would think it should work the same...

I was concerned, and unpleasantly surprised when I did mine. At least you are forewarned! Have fun!

👍

Thank You! and Good Luck!

Sorry, I don't know. I suspect it's a temperature sensor or worse; the ECM.

I have always used Morton Yellow... except the one time I didn't, and it "bridged".

Thank you for your well intended warnings. Lithium based batteries are potentially very dangerous, especially when over-heated, over-charged, over-discharged. or physically damaged. They certainly scare me. I cannot answer for whether any of my batteries have a "real" BMS. And there have also been name-brand batteries that have been recalled.

Good idea! I'm not sure what the true function of the BMS is. Supposedly, you need to reset it, because you changed the battery? Personally, I'd be tempted to just change the battery and let the BMS relearn the new battery. Has anyone tried that?

Thank you for your polite and sensible criticism. I was fairly aware of the balance concerns on the batteries. I have a similar concern on my Ryobi mower batteries. Slitting the strips makes a lot of sense. I should have figured that out when seeing the slits in the existing "strips".

OK I'll bite what brands do you prefer? Please and Thank you