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Thanks for watching and the comment.

Also it is the front end

Unfortunately the only way to take care of this would be to drill out the broken screw. Assuming it is flush with the subframe. If there is any bit of it sticking out you can try and use locking pliers, like vise grips and a bit of heat to break the rust and it will come right out. Good luck and thanks for watching.

See my other response.

Just to keep out the riffraff. Thanks for watching.

Thanks for the suggestion. I do this in a few of my videos, but usually just the ones that require tools that are not common beyond a basic socket and wrench set. Thanks for watching.

Also, great job! This video is the best. Thank you!

You need to be a dealer. Tech to get access . Thanks for watching.

Great, thanks for letting me know. Hope it helped.

To pull the cage retainer/ lock off i used a pair of needle nose pliers. After it is removed look in the notch on the axle tube, There is a small square key in there. Use a magnet and pull it out. Once that is out of the way the nut should come loose easily enough. Hope this helps, good luck and thanks for watching.

That depends on what valves and if they are factory valves or aftermarket. Some of the valves are sodium filled and these are more expensive, but help with keeping the valve cool.

Thanks for watching and the comment.

No problems at all. Worked perfectly after the modifications. Thanks for watching

@@willpoweredgarage969 great The same shaft is in A4 b9

So, I usually will do just that, Turn the crank back just a bit from TDC so there is no chance of valve damage. Then set your cam timing and lock it in before turning the crank back so you can get everything in time. Thanks for watching

Thanks for watching and Good luck!

Yes, an I regret it. The customer was taking the truck on a trip and could not get the seals in time. Needless to say, when he got back, I had to replace the inner seals and fill the diff fluid. Thanks for watching.

Just curious if you were able to get it all back together after our discussion.

@@willpoweredgarage969 No, waiting for the local shop mechanic to swing by, decided to do the oil pump to and we'll just put it back together with him here next week.

Yes, it is usually caused by a failed hazard relay.

@@willpoweredgarage969 interesting 🤔 I'm trying to get it out right now.

Its a dealer only workshop manual. Need to be a dealer tech to have access. Thanks for watching.

No bearing grease. The bearings are lubricated with the differential fluid. Good Idea to check the diff fluid after removing the axle.

That's great, Its a good skill to have though sometimes can be cumbersome when everyone asks for your help for a deal. lol

I purchased them from a local Advance Auto Parts

I recently did one where the chain exploded and destroyed the cover as well. I have a video of it on my page. Unfortunately, when it failed it bent a few valves, so you will need to remove the head and replace the damaged valves, but the head itself should be fine after cleaning it well. The same goes for the engine. Make sure to flush and change the oil before first startup. Thanks for watching.

I did not have it machined. You can check it with a good machine straight edge, but Unless it has been badly overheated they are usually just fine. When cleaning though do not use anything aggressive to scratch the surface or grind. I like to use these special rubber gasket removers 3m sells. takes the gasket off but does not damage the aluminum. Thanks for watching

No need to replace the adjuster unless you had an issue with it, or the gear is damaged or worn. Thanks for watching

Thanks for the comment. Good luck with the repair.

Great, Thanks for watching. I work out of my home shop out in LongIsland.

Yes, Any bushing that would be rotated during service I.E a control arm bushing should be tightened at ride height. The struts in this instance do not go through that same rotation. But if the manual calls for it, Do it. Thanks for watching.

@@willpoweredgarage969 Cool thanks! Sorry I should've mentioned my manual is for a 2012 Subaru Legacy.

I would absolutely inspect the pistons and cylinders for damage. Many times the valve will hit the piston and the valve will be bent. The piston will have a witness mark. I usually will lightly sand down the sharp edges. I have never had any issues with the marks past that. Thanks for watching and the comment.

I used the S6-s650F transmission that was in the super duty and transfer case.

Yes they are different spring rates. I do not know how to decode them without a rebuild manual though.

Great, Glad I was able to help you out and save you a headache. Thanks for watching!

Thanks for watching and the kind words

Thanks for watching!

Are you looking for the part number ? 06F 198 107 A or the positioning of the rings. There is no specific orientation, just stager the gaps like you would piston rings so the gaps do not line up.

Awesome, I am so glad this video helped you out! Thanks for the comment.

Wow, Thanks for the kind words. I'm glad this video was able to help you out! Thanks for watching.

Thanks for watching!

He did

Thank you so much for the kind words

I think the chains are a reliable way to time it. But maybe a good way to double-check that you are in time. Thanks for the information.

Yeah, there are just so many, though. Hopefully, the tech bulletin I posted and a good wire diagram help find the source of many problems. Thanks for watching.

Well, the radiator, the ac condenser, the trans cooler lines, if it's automatic, crash sensors, hood latch cable, headlight/fog light wiring, and intercooler hoses on some models. I'm probably forgetting something, but that is most of it

Thanks for watching.

Take your time, a flex head ratchet is very useful to get to many bolts. Don't forget to take the turbo support bracket out.

Right

Sorry, I can not. The only way to get access to this program is being an employee at a dealership. Thanks for watching and good luck with the repair.

I would not recommend an impact gun on this bolt. They are hard enough to get out without it stripping. You can use an open end wrench on the cam notches where the head bolts are. Usually a 17 or 18mm wrench. Best is to use the locking tool though since this bolt is very tight.

Glad it was helpful! Thanks for watching.

Every one of these I have done has been different. Most often it is in the cam bridge and intake camshaft. Thanks for watching

Thanks for watching, I have more coming soon. Just need to get around to editing the videos.