How you take off the retainer nut or cage retainer so damn easy? I’m in the middle of a fix myself following your video and I’m literally stuck there trying to take the sucker off
To pull the cage retainer/ lock off i used a pair of needle nose pliers. After it is removed look in the notch on the axle tube, There is a small square key in there. Use a magnet and pull it out. Once that is out of the way the nut should come loose easily enough. Hope this helps, good luck and thanks for watching.
You could stick the rotor/hub assembly in one of the dually rims to help hold the hub during the torque process to help hold it and reduce the risk of damaging the threads.
never messed with automotive but it seems to be like a inboard dayton with an axel like on a container trailer . while i don't have a lot of experience with auto i do with those . thanks for the video so i know what to expect for the jam nut . P-S you got so lucky with those seals they normally come apart . we tended to go back with a new one every time . we also used that opportunity to inspect bearings for any kind of heat damage or wear 10/10 great video
Thanks for the great video, I'm following along doing my own and im not ready to give up but its winning so far lol. Not a mechanic and have to change out my rotors and rear left caliper myself due to money issues right now. I can't for the life of me get the hub off. What's the trick? Ive gotten it to budge a little but not much.
They do sometimes get hung up on the bearings. If you are really getting hung up I would put two pry bars behind the rotor and try to pry it off. If you do this, I would recommend replacing the inner seals as it will most likely get damaged. Thanks for watching, and good luck. 👍
@willpoweredgarage969 thought I'd give an update and an idea for someone needing to do this alone like me without being a mechanic. Got it all done last week. I wound up loosening the parking brake with the adjuster with the nibs like 18 clicks. For torqueing the 8 bolts to remount the rotors in the hub I mounted the hub to the inside wheel to where it was standing like a cake topper. I finger tightened 4 lugs to hold it then placed the rotor on. Tightened down the bolts with an impact the was able to torque them to the 148 and the wheel held it steady enough to where it didn't move. Right wheel went super smooth since the caliper was good and didn't have any damage to the rotor and such. I also loosened the parking brake before I did it at all and it slid right off with a small nudge with the pry bar. All in all was a nightmare being I've never done brakes on a dually and haven't done my own brakes at all for over 20 years lol bit I got it done. I also did new wheel seals on both sides.
I have a truck just like this that has been damaged, do you know of a way to or tool to fix the threads om the axle housing. On my truck the key that locks the big ring in place so that it doesn't rotate somehow got dislodged and tore up the threads. I am looking for a tool or way to chase those threads so that I can take the big lock ring off the hub.
Wow, ok. So it really depends on how mangled the threads are. It is a very large tube with a fine thread. If just a few at the end are damaged you can use a hand file and try and cut the thread back into it. Need a steady hand and stay straight with the thread. If one or two are bad just file a taper on to the housing. If they are just a bit distorted I have used new nuts before, and with a hacksaw cut 4 slots in the new nut on the inside and basically created a die. That way you can chase the threads. Need to be careful since the nut is not harded and will distort if you can to far too fast. Lots of lubrication while chasing the thread. The last is the tube would need to be welded, and then on a very large lathe have new threads cut back into it. Though at that point a used axle is probably cheaper. Let me know how you make out and send pictures if you can.
No, Its such a small amount that is lost would probably lose more just checking the level. Depending on the milage it might be a good opportunity to replace the rear diff fluid. My fav way, Use a Vac pump to pull out the fluid and then refill. That way you do not need to remove the cover, unless its leaking and needs a new seal. Thanks for watching and commenting.
Great vid...i need to do dust/backing plate..78.5k on truck. Hate to do all that work just for the plate. But I don't believe I need bearings or rotors..
It is a lot of work just to get to the plate, but not terribly hard. Just give the bearings a quick inspection. I would at the very least replace the seal. They are a bit fragile, and the last thing you want is a gear oil leak.
@willpoweredgarage969 Good advise...think I will wait a bit until I see some rotor issues. I can't leave stuff alone if I dig that deep. Will likely do bearing seals and rotors..calipers...leaf springs...rear axle...driveshaft...ok enuff already... really stop at calipers 😁 Truck lived in rust belt and did alot to frame to stop rust and such...all moving parts went thru (he double l)...Trying to ease up on cussing when I talk about rust and such lol...
Yes, an I regret it. The customer was taking the truck on a trip and could not get the seals in time. Needless to say, when he got back, I had to replace the inner seals and fill the diff fluid. Thanks for watching.
I do not know off hand. Best I can say is if you have the same Alison rear axle it should come apart very similar. But the 2019 model year is from 2015 and up.
Yeah, that does happen. You need to keep working the rotor off. If replacing the rotor and use prybars and hammer blows to get it to move off. I highly suggest replacing the rear oil seal because there is a good chance of damage when they are stuck like this. Good luck, and thanks for watching.
If the truck never had the calipers, removed using 21 mm close box wrench and a hammer and hammer the crap out of it to get them off. That’s the only way you get them off.
How you take off the retainer nut or cage retainer so damn easy? I’m in the middle of a fix myself following your video and I’m literally stuck there trying to take the sucker off
To pull the cage retainer/ lock off i used a pair of needle nose pliers. After it is removed look in the notch on the axle tube, There is a small square key in there. Use a magnet and pull it out. Once that is out of the way the nut should come loose easily enough. Hope this helps, good luck and thanks for watching.
You could stick the rotor/hub assembly in one of the dually rims to help hold the hub during the torque process to help hold it and reduce the risk of damaging the threads.
That's a great tip. Thanks for that!
never messed with automotive but it seems to be like a inboard dayton with an axel like on a container trailer . while i don't have a lot of experience with auto i do with those . thanks for the video so i know what to expect for the jam nut .
P-S you got so lucky with those seals they normally come apart . we tended to go back with a new one every time . we also used that opportunity to inspect bearings for any kind of heat damage or wear
10/10 great video
Well, I have to admit that I ended up having to replace one of the seals afterwards. Thanks for watching.
Thanks man!! Very helpful, you even gave us the torque specs. The bearing is the most nerve wracking part of the process.
Thanks for watching, Yes I agree. A lot of load on that bearing and you want it to be correct.
Excellent, quick, and shows every step with needed comments
Thanks for the kind words and watching.
Thanks. You did the best video out of several I’ve watched
Great, thanks for letting me know. Hope it helped.
Very good and clear instructions. Thanks for making this video.
Thank you for watching, and leaving a comment. Glad to know my videos help.
Thanks for the great video, I'm following along doing my own and im not ready to give up but its winning so far lol. Not a mechanic and have to change out my rotors and rear left caliper myself due to money issues right now. I can't for the life of me get the hub off. What's the trick? Ive gotten it to budge a little but not much.
They do sometimes get hung up on the bearings. If you are really getting hung up I would put two pry bars behind the rotor and try to pry it off. If you do this, I would recommend replacing the inner seals as it will most likely get damaged. Thanks for watching, and good luck. 👍
@@willpoweredgarage969 thanks. I'll give it a shot.
@willpoweredgarage969 thought I'd give an update and an idea for someone needing to do this alone like me without being a mechanic.
Got it all done last week. I wound up loosening the parking brake with the adjuster with the nibs like 18 clicks.
For torqueing the 8 bolts to remount the rotors in the hub I mounted the hub to the inside wheel to where it was standing like a cake topper. I finger tightened 4 lugs to hold it then placed the rotor on. Tightened down the bolts with an impact the was able to torque them to the 148 and the wheel held it steady enough to where it didn't move.
Right wheel went super smooth since the caliper was good and didn't have any damage to the rotor and such. I also loosened the parking brake before I did it at all and it slid right off with a small nudge with the pry bar.
All in all was a nightmare being I've never done brakes on a dually and haven't done my own brakes at all for over 20 years lol bit I got it done.
I also did new wheel seals on both sides.
I have a truck just like this that has been damaged, do you know of a way to or tool to fix the threads om the axle housing. On my truck the key that locks the big ring in place so that it doesn't rotate somehow got dislodged and tore up the threads. I am looking for a tool or way to chase those threads so that I can take the big lock ring off the hub.
Wow, ok. So it really depends on how mangled the threads are. It is a very large tube with a fine thread. If just a few at the end are damaged you can use a hand file and try and cut the thread back into it. Need a steady hand and stay straight with the thread. If one or two are bad just file a taper on to the housing. If they are just a bit distorted I have used new nuts before, and with a hacksaw cut 4 slots in the new nut on the inside and basically created a die. That way you can chase the threads. Need to be careful since the nut is not harded and will distort if you can to far too fast. Lots of lubrication while chasing the thread. The last is the tube would need to be welded, and then on a very large lathe have new threads cut back into it. Though at that point a used axle is probably cheaper. Let me know how you make out and send pictures if you can.
Thanks. Do you need to top off the differential fluid that was lost, or is the little bit lost ok?
No, Its such a small amount that is lost would probably lose more just checking the level. Depending on the milage it might be a good opportunity to replace the rear diff fluid. My fav way, Use a Vac pump to pull out the fluid and then refill. That way you do not need to remove the cover, unless its leaking and needs a new seal. Thanks for watching and commenting.
Great video , taking on this service on my dually hopefully it’s as smooth as you made it look lol
Thank you for watching, I hope all went well!
On 12:24, when sliding the rotor assembly. Do put axle or bearing grease and the spindle hub?
No bearing grease. The bearings are lubricated with the differential fluid. Good Idea to check the diff fluid after removing the axle.
i would coat spindle with some 90 weight gear oil
You really came through for me today
Awesome, I'm glad it helped you out. Thanks for watching and letting me know!
You can mount the hub to a wheel to help hold it while you torque the bolts.
That's a great suggestion. Thank you!
Did you not put a new gasket on the axle when you put it back in?
No, It's just a paper gasket on a machined surface. They almost never leak. They are only a few $ each though.
Great vid...i need to do dust/backing plate..78.5k on truck. Hate to do all that work just for the plate. But I don't believe I need bearings or rotors..
It is a lot of work just to get to the plate, but not terribly hard. Just give the bearings a quick inspection. I would at the very least replace the seal. They are a bit fragile, and the last thing you want is a gear oil leak.
@willpoweredgarage969 Good advise...think I will wait a bit until I see some rotor issues. I can't leave stuff alone if I dig that deep. Will likely do bearing seals and rotors..calipers...leaf springs...rear axle...driveshaft...ok enuff already... really stop at calipers 😁
Truck lived in rust belt and did alot to frame to stop rust and such...all moving parts went thru (he double l)...Trying to ease up on cussing when I talk about rust and such lol...
The top bolt on the caliper is impossible to remove, I rounded perfect round.
Yeah, if its the first time they Loctite them from the factory. A little heat on the bolt will loosen it up and will come out much easier.
I noticed you dint change yoir inner hub seal OR the able shaft seal
Yes, an I regret it. The customer was taking the truck on a trip and could not get the seals in time. Needless to say, when he got back, I had to replace the inner seals and fill the diff fluid. Thanks for watching.
Who did u order the rotors from
The customer supplied the parts, but I believe they came from RockAuto.
how long do you think this job should take???
To do it correct Id say about 1.5 hrs for both sides. Should would prob charge 2 hrs id say min.
Are the brakes the same from 2011 to 2019?
I do not know off hand. Best I can say is if you have the same Alison rear axle it should come apart very similar. But the 2019 model year is from 2015 and up.
Do you have a video of you changing the break pads out?
Sorry I do not.
Where would you find the speed sensor wire? Thanks.
It is mounted to flange behind the rear rotor. One for each side.
Where did you purchase the brakes and rotors from?
I purchased them from a local Advance Auto Parts
Thanks for a great video!
Thanks for watching and commenting!
Put your hub into the wheel to hold it while torque
That's a great, smart Idea. Thanks!
Does this apply to a single rear wheel 2500hd?
To be honest I am not sure. I believe there are differences, but the basic steps are the same. Thanks for watching.
Don't show the pad replacement?
Putting the pads in is the easy part of this repair. I'll make another to show the pad install in more detail.
You forgot to put a little axle grease in the hub before you installed it !!!
Thanks for the tip.
Great job
Good vid. Doesn't seem too bad
Its really not once you understand how it comes apart. Thanks for watching
I took the spindle nut off rotor stuck on hard
Yeah, that does happen. You need to keep working the rotor off. If replacing the rotor and use prybars and hammer blows to get it to move off. I highly suggest replacing the rear oil seal because there is a good chance of damage when they are stuck like this. Good luck, and thanks for watching.
Awesome video! Thank you so much.
Thanks so much for stopping by and taking the time to leave a comment!
Thanks you sir for your tutorial!! it can be better explain!!! Gracias señor! Great video GOD bless 😅
Thank you so much for the kind words. I'm glad it helped you.
Good video. Thanks!!!
Thanks for watching!
Nice video.. thanks man
Thanks for watching!
Your supposed to replace the seals per the book
Yes, you absolutely should replace the seal.
🔥
Bro said fk the wheel seal
I did, and it bit me. Ended up replacing it after all done. Learn from my mistakes. Replace the wheel seals at the same time. Lol Thanks for watching
@@willpoweredgarage969 to be fair I came here trying to see what tool everyone is using for the seals. Use to semis and needing a special tool
If the truck never had the calipers, removed using 21 mm close box wrench and a hammer and hammer the crap out of it to get them off. That’s the only way you get them off.
Really is, There is no room for anything more than a wrench and they are tight!
Great video, BUT, it's C A L I P E R. "P". There is a P in caliper. It's not caliber. I almost didn't finish the video. 😮💨
Thanks for the pronunciation lesson. Lol, glad you liked the video. Hope it helped and thanks for watching.
Bro shut up
lol this guy
Awesome video! Thank you!!
Thank you for watching.