Відео

Jack the motor up very easy to remove the pan No grinding necessary. Nice video

WHAT,S YOUR NEW TEL # OR E-MAIL ADDRRSS??

MALCOM!! YOUR NUMBER NOT WORKING!!

Just done mine and no leaks!!! was a pain some of your top tips helped me along with others on here.. Mr G Dial thank you 👍

16 mins blah blah blah Way too long explaining

So the actual key still needs to be cut to fit the door and cylinder?

Thanks for the video. I rebuilt my jagaur s type r 2003. I rebuild the motor and transmission. After reassembling the car I tried a first start up . The car turned 3 xs on the fourth try I got a no crank no start. I had a scanner but the scanner won't communicate with the ECU . I had a locksmith try to check the key he said he had a no communication with ECU. My thought is the immobilizer was triggered or the key is bad or the tumbler . Am I on the right track ? The key locksmith is coming back to try and figure out if the immobilizer is triggered . Everything works except nothing when I try to start the car. The car ran and drove when I started the restoration. It had 235k miles so the key I have was used quite a bit . I tried calling you but the # is not in service

Oh I got it now! I watched your video about 3 times in a row Thank u! Have a good 1!!!😮

Thank you for your help so far!

Hi! Is the 2002 x type 2.5 pan the same? I been trying to take my pan.off for about 3 hrs. ..filing grinding I have all the bolts & nuts and brackets..I filed down that nub on the corner of pan everything!! Bout to light in on fiaw!!!😮

Excellent detail and video. Man - when you said that it took you a long time to get to this point in the video - I ALREADY KNEW IT! Your short-cuts and trimming of non-essential protrusions in the aluminum casting are spot-on - exactly the type of thing I look for when doing repairs such as this one. I don’t know your age, but I can tell you that I remember a time when all we had to go on was a Chilton or Hayes repair manual with a few pictures and some fairly decent descriptions of basic repairs. Back then, the first thing I bought when I got a new (used) car, was a repair manual specifically for that car, because I KNEW that I’d be the one fixing it. I tell my kids how lucky they are (and me too) that they have UA-cam for stuff like this because of guys like you who take the time to share their experience and hard-won wisdom. Videos like yours either give someone the confidence to try - or make them realize that they better not even think about it. Either way - the viewer is a winner because their decision is an informed decision. The one absolute gem you dropped on drilling out an access hole to one of the pan bolts would eliminate enough people - if they are really watching. A lot of people don’t understand the basics of assessing removal of an oil pan - even at the simplest level of locating EVERY bolt and being POSITIVE that you can access it for removal. Your video provides all of the answers. Thank you sir for taking the time to post!

Hello, I encountered the problem that you describe. The excessive play of the key in the neiman prevents the 12v power supply on the black wire, which goes to the gecm. Dtc code P1638 and P1260. This wire supplies the starting authorization request network via the anti-pats in the dashboard, the transponder on the neiman and the remote key. I helped myself by connecting the black cable to the green and orange cable position 2 of the neiman which goes to the ignition relay. The best solution maybe is to pull a wire from the fuse box through a switch and connect it just before the gecm to the black wire which comes directly from the neiman, this will create an additional protection by restoring voltage to the immobilizer circuit. I hope my post is clear enough, my english is not perfect sorry. it works only with the remote key associated with the transponder To only do short-term, the best is to replace the neiman, but this can save tow truck costs. If that can help someone out.

hi where is the water coming from tho?

Thanks you very much, Gerald! Magic! I work on my Jaguar collection basically everyday, fixing everything, but that one stumped me. Swapping a sump gasket should be child's play, but not on the X-Type. When I first saw your video, I thought: Crazy! Then I went thru several posts suggesting to basically dismantle half the engine from underneath the car. The term "pig job" was used a lot in those posts - I don't even want to know how long it took - probably several weeks. So I accepted that drilling that hole is the only way. I drilled a perfectly positioned 17mm hole (hole saw). Got the sump to "rattle and hum", but it would not fall out. I admit I did not watch your video all the way to the end at that stage. After watching it to the end, I now removed the "bottom bit (that cylinder attachment), which does not make any sense", but there was no need to also remove "the lip". And after a lot more shaking going on I basically pushed the short end with the now-missing-senseless-bottom-bit a bit over the subframe, which was not possible before and the thing came finally out and my hand holding the sump hit my nose - but all good. I succeeded with this 10 minutes ago and had to let your know immediately. Thanks again, Peter PS: I also checked now, if the suggestion just below regarding the "distributor wrench" would have worked. I never saw such a tool before, and I checked: that tool normally comes only in 9/16 inch, but we are dealing with 13mm (close, but not close enough). Also I have my doubts (I was double-checking it right now), if the bolt would have had sufficient space to drop out (once loose) in the space over the transfer-box (without the hole). But the main issue is that there is NO space for that distributor wrench to be rotated. Without rotation, no removal of bolt.

Hi! How did you get the wheel bearing sensor on the back removed so that the ball joint could clear the back of the knuckle? Thanks!

Awesome video man thanks for sharing

Thank, you for you're helpful info.🙏

You are “The Man!”

thank, you for you're video. I, own a 2004, x type 3.0 jaguar.

Thank you man we appreciate you taking the time to post this. At least we have a heads up on the situation cudos

G. Appreciate it, you have fully done your contribution um subscribing. G. think I have other complex issues such as CAN bus network wiring short.

Mines the opposite where all the comms and ac radio works but my windows don't have any power and my headlights stay on and fan in engine constantly run without the key turning to Stat the engine just I hook up the battery all the headlights and tail lights are on constantly never shutting off and engine fan runs until I unplug the battery

If I have a key that unlocks the doors but is not made like a fob but separate key and remote would I be good to send the key in and buy the 2 since it is the one given to me by the previous owner like he installed a battery then it does how you say where the car will not start and immediately goes into a security lock

Super video! Thank you!

Thanks for posting this great video. I have watched it many times while removing my oil pan. I have a 2002 X-Type. I eventually figured out the 2002 model has a bigger catalytic converter than the 2004 model and it needs to be removed in order to tip the oil pan like shown in your video.

That key has 6 on it.

Good video! I've seen so many people drill out the bolt hole for lower the transfer case. You don't have to do that at all. A good distributor wrench will break that 13 mm nut loose. Then you can finger it out but undoing all the transfer case bolts and taking a transmission jack and jacking up the transfer case and then pulling the 13mm bolt out.

where can you get the service or parts to fix the ignition key switch problems on 2004 Jag XJR-s sedans

Thanks a million , nice of you to create the video and give locksmith referral

Omg.. I junked my X-TYPE FOR THIS!!!! I'M SUCH A FOOL!

How does that have a transfer cas

Priceless information. Great Clear Presentation. Thank you so much. ☯️

Just yesterday I had the same problem too

Are there specific torque settings when reinstalling or just tighten until snug?

Thanks for the info very informative 👍

My god spit it out, so long winded with no pertinent information and repeated the useless info several times

I did that but it still doesn’t go over 3k

Great information, well done !

Talk again again too much

Question. How do I program the part below, to make it work, open and close

2004 jaguar xj8 in the control the part of the alarm buttons and to open do not work the above is fine, it turns on but I cannot open or close. I bought a key from amazon if it changed the lower part as programmed. Just as you explained it, good video, I congratulate you for your information

2004 jaguar xj8 in the control the part of the alarm buttons and to open do not work the above is fine it turns on but I cannot open or close. I sent for a key from amazon if it changed the bottom part as programmed. Just as you explained it, good video, I congratulate you for your information

I saw meanwhile another video: I understand now why your ball-joint is facing downwards: It is like that on S-Type up to 2002. After the 2002 facelift the ball-joints face up!

I did not listen to the video, but I saw the result...: Didn't anyone realize that the ball joint is supposed to show upwards and not downwards? The ball joint was assembled from the wrong side...

I got a P1638 recently and my car wont start. The odometer is all dash marks. I had sent my cluster out for repair and they were able to salvage the data out of it. Then they tried to clone it over to a new cluster but my car wont start. The funny part is the vin, mileage, immobilizer keys all match. I even pass the security light. Now they say my data on the cluster might be corrupted. I'm so tired of this mess.

Thanks for the information.

HELLO, A QUESTION. THEY LEFT A TRANSMISSION FLUID COOLING PIECE WRONGLY PLACED AND IT HIT WHEN PASSING ON POLES OR HOLES, AND THE FLUID COMES OUT, AND I STOPPING TO MAKE THE GEARBOX AND IT REMAINS NEUTRAL AFTER 50 MTS. WHAT COULD HAPPENED IN THAT CASE, THANK YOU FOR YOUR SUPPORT.

was this on the 3 litre model

Can't get key in.. plastic Straw snapped inside barrel.. key won't insert..in..got my SELF in a pickle..if I heat up barrel with flame burning.. lighter..and PLASTIC melts away..I.. hope to get key in barrel

Did it give give any problems after that because I’m trying to know if cutting the transmission housing give major issues