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Stephan Forseilles
Belgium
Приєднався 16 сер 2012
I'm passionate about CNC machining. I used to own a Euro Makers Aureus 3X CNC which is a hobby machine similar to a Shapeoko or and X-Carve. I recently upgraded to a SOROTEC Basic Line 1005 CNC which is more "prosumer". I post videos about the various projects I make.
Large epoxy sigil using a CNC
Full process of creating a large multicoloured epoxy sigil using a CNC.
My CNC is a SOROTEC Basic Line 1050. I use Vectric Vcarve for CAD/CAM.
Design used: www.inspireuplift.com/Ravenclaw-Crest-Emblem-Outline-Svg-School-Of-Magic-House/iu/109975
My CNC is a SOROTEC Basic Line 1050. I use Vectric Vcarve for CAD/CAM.
Design used: www.inspireuplift.com/Ravenclaw-Crest-Emblem-Outline-Svg-School-Of-Magic-House/iu/109975
Переглядів: 1 801
Відео
Making a Gryffindor sigil for Gabriel
Переглядів 1,8 тис.Рік тому
I'm getting deeper in the intricacies of multi-layered epoxy using my CNC. This time in six colours, including the original wood. I have included the full CAM process as screen recordings. I didn't put any music in the video, feel free to listen to what you like (which is most probably better than what's in the UA-cam free library). The design of the sigil: www.inspireuplift.com/Gryffindor-Svg-...
Full inlay process: "Too many idiots" cutting board.
Переглядів 27 тис.2 роки тому
This was a fun one. I saw the slogan on a t-shirt and it resonated with me. ;) .Base is beech, inlays are Padauk (7mm depth, Viking head) and Iroko (6mm depth, writing). Total machining time was about 4 hours on my SOROTEC Basic Line CNC. All bits come from www.cncfraises.fr/ The Viking SVG was purchased on ETSY (€0.77). I try to answer all questions in the comments! Not always fast, though... ;)
A JIG for PERFECT workpiece alignment on CNC
Переглядів 7 тис.2 роки тому
Squaring workpieces on the CNC and finding a perfect zero in their corner is not always easy. But it is very important, especially with double-sided jobs. In this tutorial we make a jig to nail the placement of the workpiece every single time!
Epoxy ANDOR plaque on CNC with full CAD/CAM process
Переглядів 4,9 тис.2 роки тому
I think Andor is, by far, the best thing in Star Wars since the original trilogy (maybe with the season 1 of The Mandalorian). I wanted to go for a full epoxy project (I'm running low on scraps of wood...) with some challenges like creating the "scratches" on the logo and a double-face project. I ended up adding a 3-D carved base made with a small piece of oak that was lying around. I re-create...
Embedding a Motorola 68030 CPU in resin.
Переглядів 9862 роки тому
I have fond memories of programming the 68000 and 68030 in my younger years. The 68030 was the 'dream beast' at the time (mid-eighties) but now you can buy one very cheap. Incredible to see that they are still available and used! Of course I tried to make things a little bit challenging by including a wood circling and a Motorola logo as background, all in a two-sided CAD/CAM project. This time...
A floating skull in epoxy
Переглядів 1,2 тис.2 роки тому
I keep experimenting with my CNC and epoxy. This time I try to completely encapsulate a 3D model by creating a 2-faced design and filling epoxy from both sides. I also keep learning the best ways to use my new vacuum chamber. My CNC: www.sorotec.de/shop/CNC-Portalfraesen/Basic-Line/ My CAD/CAM software: www.vectric.com/products/vcarve-desktop My bits: www.cncfraises.fr/ My vacuum chamber: www.a...
Is a vacuum chamber useful when making epoxy projects?
Переглядів 18 тис.2 роки тому
I invested in a vacuum chamber to remove bubbles from epoxy. This is a €200 model made by Baco (including the vacuum pump). This video is about the set-up and a first test to see if degassing actually makes a difference.
Making fake Stained Glass with epoxy and CNC
Переглядів 18 тис.2 роки тому
This time I feel like playing with epoxy. I'm fascinated by transparency and light so I'm trying to make fake stained glass using coloured epoxy. The challenge is the multiple passes between the epoxy pours. I'm not entirely happy with the polishing, I think I miss wet sand paper from 800 to 3200 between the dry sandpaper (up to 320) and the polishing compound. That's the reason why I had to us...
Deep inlay with full CAM process in Vectric Vcarve
Переглядів 55 тис.2 роки тому
This is the whole process of creating an inlaid cutting board using offcuts from my backyard deck. I show the complete step-by-step including CAM setup (with depths, bits and feeds & speeds) in Vectric Vcarve. My tutorial on deep V-carved inlays: ua-cam.com/video/RY0zLv3wcyc/v-deo.html Build of the blanks: ua-cam.com/video/9zpbYfONYlg/v-deo.html CAM for the pocket: ua-cam.com/video/9zpbYfONYlg/...
A "Thank you" cutting board for Eric.
Переглядів 2,3 тис.2 роки тому
Eric, my friend, we've been working and having fun together for almost 20 years. Now that you're going to enjoy a well deserved (semi-)retirement, there'll only be the "having fun" part. It's been a pleasure and it's been an honour. I hope you enjoy the gift and will use and abuse it during long hours of cooking.
A THANOS cutting board on CNC
Переглядів 7 тис.3 роки тому
My largest and most intricate inlay yet. And my first 4K video. Not without problems... For a complete tutorial on how I make inlays: ua-cam.com/video/RY0zLv3wcyc/v-deo.html Most of my bits come from www.cncfraises.fr My CNC is a SOROTEC Basic Line 1005 www.sorotec.de/shop/CNC-Portalfraesen/Basic-Line/ Thanos SVG on ETSY www.etsy.com/listing/710749529/thanos-svg-mad-titan-svg-marvel-svg?ref=yr_...
Tuto: Fraises pour les inserts en V
Переглядів 15 тис.3 роки тому
(W/ English subtitles) Quelles fraises utiliser pour faire des inserts en V? Particulièrement dans les planches à découper. Une description du jeu de fraises que j'utilise sur un vrai exemple. Which bits to use for V-carved inserts? Especially in cutting boards. A dettailed explanation of the set I use.
A Pink Floyd-inspired end-grain cutting board
Переглядів 8 тис.3 роки тому
(Sous-titres en Français disponibles) Another big mess up that I had to recuperate. Ah well, it keeps me busy. Woods: -Beech (white) -Wenge (dark) -Padaul (reddish) My CNC from @sorotecTV : webseite.sorotec.de/produkte/basic-line/ CAD/CAM software is @vectric VCarve: www.vectric.com/products/vcarve-desktop Bits used: -6mm 2 2 Flat bit (for agressive cleanups): www.cncfraises.fr/fraises-carbures...
Inlaid serving plate with Vectric Vcarve and SOROTEC CNC
Переглядів 16 тис.3 роки тому
Inlaid serving plate with Vectric Vcarve and SOROTEC CNC
Deep inlay with Vectric VCarve and SOROTEC BL CNC -- Full process
Переглядів 9 тис.3 роки тому
Deep inlay with Vectric VCarve and SOROTEC BL CNC Full process
V-carved inlay test with my SOROTEC Basic Line 1005
Переглядів 10 тис.3 роки тому
V-carved inlay test with my SOROTEC Basic Line 1005
Super strong CNC inlays reinforced with epoxy
Переглядів 39 тис.3 роки тому
Super strong CNC inlays reinforced with epoxy
Making a thick end-grain cutting board from scrap wood
Переглядів 2,3 тис.3 роки тому
Making a thick end-grain cutting board from scrap wood
Star Trek-themed inlaid cutting board (full tutorial)
Переглядів 29 тис.4 роки тому
Star Trek-themed inlaid cutting board (full tutorial)
A Breaking Bad cutting board, all steps with a big mess up
Переглядів 23 тис.4 роки тому
A Breaking Bad cutting board, all steps with a big mess up
Personalized cookies cooling platter on CNC
Переглядів 5 тис.4 роки тому
Personalized cookies cooling platter on CNC
TEST: are downcut bit worth the effort?
Переглядів 2,4 тис.4 роки тому
TEST: are downcut bit worth the effort?
Making a RUSH-themed inlaid end-grain cutting board on CNC
Переглядів 8 тис.4 роки тому
Making a RUSH-themed inlaid end-grain cutting board on CNC
Getting perfect epoxy inlays in wood with a CNC
Переглядів 42 тис.4 роки тому
Getting perfect epoxy inlays in wood with a CNC
Making of a monogrammed inlaid end grain cutting board
Переглядів 1,6 тис.4 роки тому
Making of a monogrammed inlaid end grain cutting board
Upgrade axe Z sur l'Aureus 3X: version 2
Переглядів 1 тис.4 роки тому
Upgrade axe Z sur l'Aureus 3X: version 2
Making a "Pink Floyd" wooden sign with multi-colored epoxy inlays
Переглядів 6 тис.4 роки тому
Making a "Pink Floyd" wooden sign with multi-colored epoxy inlays
Epoxy is a one to one ratio by volume not weight. Just FYI.
Another excellent tutorial!! I keep this bookmarked for reference. Great work as usual, this is very much appreciated!
une trés bonne formation pour les débutants ! Mais c'est vraiment dommage pour pour se mélange des langues, surtout sur le choix des outils (nettoyage) ! ca serait sympa de la refaire!!! merci
Can we adjust the multiple tool paths to get the full depth of the plug by setting the cut depth of the bit used? I use this method and Aspire v12 on a Legacy Maverick 3x5. Thank you for the very informative videos you create. You are an excellent instructor.
Thanks! No that won't work because VCarve (in my case) considers that there nothing above start depth so it will immediately plunge to Start Depth + Cut Depth on 1st pass.
Ok .... Im curious. I have only ever pushed bar top epoxy to 3/16 thick for fear of overheating. And I know youre not waiting a week between each pour to let casting resin cure .... so what the hell are you using????
Well done!
Hey Stephan, first off, nice design, that's a really cool piece! Secondly (question), for Paduak do you ever have any issues in intricate areas or for tight/small details breaking off during the vBit carve? I have worked with Paduak a little and I had the biggest headach where details completely tore out ruining the piece. I slowed spindle speed down and feed rate but still did not eliminate the issue. Do you have any advice on how to eliminate this from happening? Your pieces look pretty flawless so was hoping to gain some wisdom! Bit used was a Bits and Bits 1/32" - 12degree tapered ball nose - 1/4" shank, Spindle Speed (final setting): ~15000rpm, Feed Rate --> Actually not sure what the final rate ended up being. Original program setting was ~50in/min, but as it was running i reduced the speed by a % that i don't remember. Any helpful tricks or things to consider would be much appreciated! Thanks in advance!
Trying to learn. Are the male plug end grain all so Thank you your work is very good
Best detailed tutorial on the web. I have watched several before coming to this one and no one went into this much detail. My first inlay went perfect! Thank You!
I will second that! 🙂
Hello, very nice machine. What control software do you use? Also bought from Sorotec? Thanks
Very NICE. But is the Name not „Rowena Ravenclaw“? Asking for a friend 😇
😅
Excellent work! What machine you are using, is it a Sorotec?
Thanks. Yes, Sorotec Basic Line.
ps: faire une vidéo sur les différente renté en matière serai intéressant ! permet d’optimiser du temps de réalisation voir de moins fatiguer le bout des fraises...
j'y crois pas, comment tu fais pour pas casser ta fraise c'est du pin ?
C'est du hêtre pour la base. Mais j'accélère les videos pour pas que ça dure des plombes! En général j'avance entre 600 et 1200mm/min.
merci pour ce partage, je me demande bien combien de temps cela représente dans la vrai vie..... as tu une reference d'avance et profondeur de passe pour la fraise 1.5mm? ( pour ma 2d 3.175 j'avance à 374mm/min 24000tr/min...) maintenant je comprend mieux prq cncfraise donne 70mm/min et 1 cm de profondeur
Hello en général avec cette fraise j'avance environ 5-600mm/min avec des passes de 5 à 8mm à 16.000trs.
Hi Stephan, I forgot to ask in my previous message, Which video of yours do you show and talk about the CNC bits that you use? The reason I ask is because you seem to do so well with them, and that's not to say that If I buy the same bits, I will manage to be as good as you at your CNC projects. Thank you. Regards, Michael
Hi Stephan, Great video as usual, Thank you. In one of your videos you mentioned the company that you buy some of your better CNC cutting bits from, Would you be so kind to give the name of that company please, and Would you know if their website is in English or translatable? It's a bit of an odd question, but hey, You're the man that buys from them. Thank you. Regards, Michael
G,day Stephan, Excellent project, Initially it was Breaking Bad, then it became " Cutting Bad " Then because of your skill set, it became " Looking Good Breaking Bad " Although problems occurred, your skill set allowed you to fix them and recover very well. I could do with your skill set. Regards, Michael
"Who needs heating when you have epoxy?" There was an industrial fire near my house. They were laying epoxy floor in a warehouse using 55 gallon drums of the 2-part. At the end of one operation, they went to return a large quantity of unused Part A to the 55 gallon drum, but they put it back in the wrong Drum (Part B). Ooooops!!! Big smelly fire with smoke visible for miles.....
Yes it can be dangerous. It really gets hot!!!
What kind of beautiful orange wood do you use? Nice Video!!!
I think that one was Padauk.
Beautiful job, obviously you got a neew sub. One tip: to remove a hotglue bead, put a few drops of alcohol (not IPA) beside. It penetrates underneath and lifts it off the surface.
Спасибо, дорогой друг! Очень рад, что нашел твое видео! Ты очень хорошо и подробно объясняешь, у тебя талант. Отдельный лайк за графические вставки!
Were do you get the 6mm 10 deg bits from. Can find any
From www.cncfraises.fr/
Thank you for sharing.
非常好,受益匪浅.
你好,请教一个问题,为什么要先切掉薄薄一层.?Hello, may I ask a question? Why do we need to cut off a thin layer first?
To make sure everything is flat. You should never put end grain in a planer.
@@stephanforseilles 非常感谢~
Put about three or more thin coats of clear spray lacquer on the design before you pour epoxy to prevent the tint from leaching into the surrounding wood.
but what is the result or difference with vacuum before poring and applying heat with heatgun or flame 🤔
The flame will remove the bubbles on the surface, but very often bubbles will pop out of the wood during setting and end up 'mid-air' in the epoxy. So I'll put the final peace for setting in the chamber too.
I always seem to forget the specifics of inlays, this video was just what I needed thanks!
Very good explanation! Thanks for making the video.
Thank you for the work you've put into this. 👍
Consider memorizing the jig center as zero point of another coordinate system, for example g55. Than you can just switch to that coordinate system and tell the machine to go to its zero. The machine will remember all the values for you. Here is the best explanation i found so far. ua-cam.com/video/xX0QgQEaqBg/v-deo.htmlsi=Tkph-sWohblLmbS_
What spindle speed and feed did you set for a 10-degree cutter?
Hello depending on the wood, between 500-1000mm/min, 5 to 8mm passes, 10krpm.
Great Job, Thank you !!
One of most complicated technic in wood cnc is inlay. Thanks.
It's a pity that you don't provide parameters for the diameters of the cutters you use
It depends so much on the machine! I don't want anyone to break something by using parameters that works on my machine but would probably break something on a lighter one.
I’m buying one tonight. Thanks.
C'est un superbe tutoriel, comme je n'en ai jamais trouvé (ni en anglais ni en français). Question : Je n'ai encore jamais débuté de projet d'incrustation, pensez-vous que la nouvelle version Vcarve Pro 12 prenne en compte de manière automatique ces calculs ( ua-cam.com/video/P1nbIjlBYG4/v-deo.html ) durant la conception ? Merci beaucoup pour ce que vous faites et salutations 👍
Merci! Je n'ai pas encore essayé la fonction automatique...
Excellent work. What kind of spindle speeds and feed settings do you use on your 1/16" bits for epoxy cutting? I seem to break my 1/16" 0 Fllute bits every time. Trial and error on numerous settings and still break bits routinely. Any insight would be appreciated!
Hello, that's be something like 500-800mm/min, 5-7mm, 12 to 16kRPM.
Very nice work! Not your first one I can tell.
Spectacular. What kind of hard wood are those?
Thanks! If I remember well that's beech and Iroko.
Bonjour, Je ne comprends pas. La version d'essai de Vcarve n'autorise pas l'enregistrement du projet. Faut-il payer ?
Bonjour, je crois qu'effectivement la version d'essai est limitée dans la taille du projet et les fonctionnalités d'export, malheureusement.
I'm a new subscriber like your work very nice I'll check out some of your past videos
Wow, that's awesome!
PSA: Tapping with a hammer (17:28) is a critical step. You can see the piece shifting down. I did not do that & paid dearly. So is clamping at the entire perimeter, against the piece itself, with multiple clamps.
There is no such thing as "too many clamps." ;)
On your "Motorcycles" part, you effectively have a zero glue gap, correct? You drilled to the exact amount. If you can do this for part 2, why can't you do this for part 1? You wouldn't need the epoxy then. On my attempt, I left a glue gap of 0.6mm. Small enough to effectively become a glue joint
2:00 "Flattening takes 40 minutes" What are your thoughts on a flattening bit? Is it not suitable for end-grain?
In my tests, it was vibrating so much that I had to slow it down to the point that it became slower than this technique.
Bonjour Stéphane, serait il possible de savoir quelle résine vous utilisez.Je teste plusieurs résines en ce moment et l'humidité me cause pas mal de problème 🫤. Merci pour le partage (de vos vidéos et de vos infos si vous le voulez bien 😅)... Sam
What wood is being used
no matter use wood or MDF or what use.
I just used leftovers, I think it was beech.
Problem with MDF is that it's very porous and would ingest a lot of resin, maybe to the point it would leak.
Ravenclaw the best!