For a minute I thought you had been in Leeuwarden, The Netherlands. We also have such a tower from 1529 and which just like the tower of Pisa is crooked. Please take a look at our beautiful tower :-) Great video/tutorial and thank you for all your videos -tutorials and help for us cnc'ers. Un grand merci beaucoup et salut du Holande.
I watched this video back when you first put it out. I just watched it again. It is a pretty cool project. Just wondering if there were any issues that arose using the long grain board and the end grain inlay. I have watched your videos over and over. I have an end grain cutting board i want to try and put an inlay in, just haven't tried it yet. Thank you for your awesome videos
I went to that person's home last eek and she's been using the board since then, washing it with warm water and soap. I still can't feel the inly with my fingers (it could have popped-out) so I guess the test is positive. :)
Thanks. Almost all of my bits I buy here: www.cncfraises.fr Except for the 10 degree: www.aliexpress.com/item/33034695014.html?spm=a2g0s.9042311.0.0.1ce44c4dAwOlXh
Great job! Why in the toolpath parameters you select V bit 15 deg but actually you are using engraving tapered ball nose 10 deg bit? Does it work correctly?
I really enjoy watching your videos Stephan but I must admit I wince every time I see how deep your toolpath passes are! I stick to 1 or 2mm per pass on my Workbee, am I not being brave enough?
With my previous CNC (Euromakers Aureus 3X), which was very similar to an X-Carve, I had to do 1-2mm passes (or 3-4mm but at 150-200mm/min). Now I upgraded to the SOROTEC which is way sturdier and has linear rail guides, so I can be much more agressive, in hard wood I can do 5mm at 1000mm/min. :)
Hello. It will typically take 30min to an hour depending on the project. Typical feed/speed for my CNC is 5mm@800mm/sec. Which CNC and feed/speed are you using? If you're talking about the V-bit path, you must also check the stepover. If it's too small, you get a better finish (but you don't car because no-one will even see the bottom) but it takes ages!
Salut Stephane, J ai vu que tu utilises parfois du Padouk dans tes boards, en extérieur ce bois devient rapidement gris à cause des UV. En intérieur il y a bcp moins d UV et le huilage peut réduire ce phénomène. Est ce que la couleur du Padouk de tes réalisations a évolué avec le temps ?
@@stephanforseilles merci ! J ai mis des échantillons bruts et huilés dans ma cuisine, a l extérieur et la cave pour comparer l évolution de la teinte avec le temps. Effectivement il fonce bcp avec huilage et perds malheureusement sa teinte rouge si belle au naturel. Thx
When doing the plug, the Start Depth sets the depth of insertion. But even if the tool has a max cut depth of, say, 3mm, if the start depth is, for example, 9mm, Vcarve will directly plunge to 9mm. So I have to make 2 additional passes with Start Depth 3 and 6mm to avoid cutting too deep at once. It's not easy to explain but you can see it in detail in my tutorial: ua-cam.com/video/RY0zLv3wcyc/v-deo.html .
@@stephanforseilles I understand! I actually did this look at your tutorial on youtube on my last machine. Now on my new machine i can go 9mm without any problem. So i will save som time now! :) Thx for quick answer bud!
Vu que la tour semble symétrique, tu n'aurais pas gagner du temps a ne dessiné qu'une moitié et faire un miroir ? Tu aurais pas un coté plus de travers dans la 2eme section à partir du bas :)
Salut, J'utilise la même huile, après j'ai eu un bon prof :p, par contre j'aurai aimé en trouver en conditionnement de 5 ou 10 litres...si tu as une idée ;) Merci pour le partage :)
Super réalisation !
Super réalisation ! Elle à l'air de bien marcher cette nouvelle CNC !
J'en suis assez content, je dois dire. :)
Excellent!!!
For a minute I thought you had been in Leeuwarden, The Netherlands. We also have such a tower from 1529 and which just like the tower of Pisa is crooked. Please take a look at our beautiful tower :-) Great video/tutorial and thank you for all your videos -tutorials and help for us cnc'ers. Un grand merci beaucoup et salut du Holande.
A similiar-looking architecture indeed! Thanks for the feedback.
Thanx
Wonderful. Absolutely brilliant work. I really want to try this technique, but so far, I'm too chicken! ;)
GO! :) Check my tutorial, it's not very complex.
I watched this video back when you first put it out. I just watched it again. It is a pretty cool project. Just wondering if there were any issues that arose using the long grain board and the end grain inlay. I have watched your videos over and over. I have an end grain cutting board i want to try and put an inlay in, just haven't tried it yet. Thank you for your awesome videos
I went to that person's home last eek and she's been using the board since then, washing it with warm water and soap. I still can't feel the inly with my fingers (it could have popped-out) so I guess the test is positive. :)
@Stephan Forseilles why don't you use the round bit for the handles, too? i would find that more convenient.
I could indeed. But it's not very good at removing a lot of material (you can't spin those at 20krpm :) ) and it quickly creates burns.
Hi Stephan, Can you put links to the bits you use? Its hard to read what kind the tapered ball nose is by the pic alone.
Great work
Thanks. Almost all of my bits I buy here: www.cncfraises.fr
Except for the 10 degree: www.aliexpress.com/item/33034695014.html?spm=a2g0s.9042311.0.0.1ce44c4dAwOlXh
Good job, very well!!!!!!!!
I have a question, please where buy bit 10° 6mm??? Thank you
Thanks! I bought it there: www.aliexpress.com/item/33034695014.html?spm=a2g0s.9042311.0.0.1ce44c4dAwOlXh
Great job! Why in the toolpath parameters you select V bit 15 deg but actually you are using engraving tapered ball nose 10 deg bit? Does it work correctly?
Thanks. Yes it works but I also sometimes use the configuration of an engraving bit with a flat nose.
I really enjoy watching your videos Stephan but I must admit I wince every time I see how deep your toolpath passes are! I stick to 1 or 2mm per pass on my Workbee, am I not being brave enough?
With my previous CNC (Euromakers Aureus 3X), which was very similar to an X-Carve, I had to do 1-2mm passes (or 3-4mm but at 150-200mm/min). Now I upgraded to the SOROTEC which is way sturdier and has linear rail guides, so I can be much more agressive, in hard wood I can do 5mm at 1000mm/min. :)
@@stephanforseilles thanks for the info, I am going to upgrade my Workbee to a Killerbee this year so hopefully that will help.
Very nice. What kind of wood do you use please?
Thanks. It's beech and wenge.
@@stephanforseilles
thank you
Hi
How long does it take to do one pass on the plug?
My project says that one pass takes roughly 5hours.Am I doing something wrong?
Thank you.
Hello. It will typically take 30min to an hour depending on the project. Typical feed/speed for my CNC is 5mm@800mm/sec. Which CNC and feed/speed are you using? If you're talking about the V-bit path, you must also check the stepover. If it's too small, you get a better finish (but you don't car because no-one will even see the bottom) but it takes ages!
Salut Stephane,
J ai vu que tu utilises parfois du Padouk dans tes boards, en extérieur ce bois devient rapidement gris à cause des UV.
En intérieur il y a bcp moins d UV et le huilage peut réduire ce phénomène. Est ce que la couleur du Padouk de tes réalisations a évolué avec le temps ?
Selon ce que j'ai pu expérimenter, si is est bien huilé, il ne change pas vraiment de couleur. Mais l'huile le 'fonce' déjà pas mal.
@@stephanforseilles merci !
J ai mis des échantillons bruts et huilés dans ma cuisine, a l extérieur et la cave pour comparer l évolution de la teinte avec le temps.
Effectivement il fonce bcp avec huilage et perds malheureusement sa teinte rouge si belle au naturel.
Thx
It looks like you're using a taper ball nose endmill, but in the program you have it set as a flat bottom engraver. Is there a reason for that?
I don't have any scientific explanation for that, but in my tests, it gives a better fitting plug that way...
@@stephanforseilles What about the angle? Aren't you using a 10 degree bit, but you have is set to 7.2 degrees. Shouldn't it be set to 5 in vcarve?
My i ask why your going over the plug model twice and one with the pocket and one with the Vcarve toolpath?
When doing the plug, the Start Depth sets the depth of insertion. But even if the tool has a max cut depth of, say, 3mm, if the start depth is, for example, 9mm, Vcarve will directly plunge to 9mm. So I have to make 2 additional passes with Start Depth 3 and 6mm to avoid cutting too deep at once. It's not easy to explain but you can see it in detail in my tutorial: ua-cam.com/video/RY0zLv3wcyc/v-deo.html .
@@stephanforseilles I understand! I actually did this look at your tutorial on youtube on my last machine. Now on my new machine i can go 9mm without any problem. So i will save som time now! :) Thx for quick answer bud!
Vu que la tour semble symétrique, tu n'aurais pas gagner du temps a ne dessiné qu'une moitié et faire un miroir ?
Tu aurais pas un coté plus de travers dans la 2eme section à partir du bas :)
C'est mon côté enfantin: j'ai commencé par empiler des blocs. :D Pour tout le reste (fenêtres, portes) j'ai effectivement fait 1/2 + miroir.
Salut,
J'utilise la même huile, après j'ai eu un bon prof :p, par contre j'aurai aimé en trouver en conditionnement de 5 ou 10 litres...si tu as une idée ;)
Merci pour le partage :)
J'ai acheté celle-là sur Amazon mais elle n'est plus dispo. Pas facile à trouver!
@@stephanforseilles pareil essaie les frères nordin 😊
Nice job but it is best not to mix end grain and long grain in glue ups including inlays.
Thanks. I agree but given the price of wood atm, I do with what blanks I have at hand. ;)