Відео

I'd definitely have one if became available, brilliant bit of kit 😊

Ingenious and a lot quieter than most. It might be an idea to have separate versions available ie a basic model and one "all singing and dancing"? Some of the features may never be used on many layouts; whether this is possible by separate parts being available or not would obviously be dependent on whether that is possible.

Beautiful workmanship, expert soldering, superb.

Hello. Simply brilliant! Exactly what I've been seeking for years. Is there a kit available yet for purchase? Thank you. Rick D.

Excellent and enjoyable video. Thanks for posting. I’m across the Atlantic, so different prototypes, but similar techniques and tools.

Please advise the price of the HO scale complete system that includes the cleaned-up Ballast holding jar. Is Mpeterll a distributor in the States for you and if there are any other distributors kindly advise. I will have approximately 300 ft. to ballast. Thanks for providing a wonderful product to enhance model railroading. l will have approximately 300 ft. to ballast. Thanks for providing a wonderful product to enhance model railroading. Best, Wiley T

I thought I had seen something like this sometime ago, look forward to seeing the STL files🇦🇺🦘👍🏻

shipping 167 pounds lmfao lost my sale

100 quid for a resin printer thats nothing my mk4 prusa cannot print that small with the same quality

Très intéressant, j’ai construits un assez grand nombre de kit laiton, quelque soit le pays la technique est la même (c’est normal!) Pour la soudure ”métal blanc” sur laiton, j’étame le laiton, puis je soude à basse température avec des soudure pour figurine. Compliments pour votre travail et vs vidéos Daniel (un frenchie!)

Hi James that alignment aid tool you show in this video, will you be selling this on web shop or sell the file so we can make our own tool? many thanks Pete.

It's really nice, but two things. One, it looks expensive, and or time consuming. We have adapted to servo control because it is "cheap". Two, when you have scores, or in some cases hundreds of turnouts, you have a ton of wires running through your layout. One way I mitigate that is using controller boards like the "Jack Wabbit", DigiTrax DS74, etc, that are addressed from the track bus. Still, it is a mitigation and not solution. Ideally, we can come up with turnouts that tie directly into the track bus, without any mediators. A servo with it's own "mini" decoder, that would tie directly to the local bus would be perfect. It would save the wire bulk that clutters up modern layouts, as well as add to their complexity.

Brilliant! Clever

really enjoying this subject James and learning from you for my own falcon 2 pro, cheers Paul

Would you say this is a better alternative to a co2 laser with the same wattage. I have a 30watt but I’m finding it expensive to run and maintain and I’m looking for an alternative option to cut if laser buildings? Thanks

When you moved the fan panel to the right side, was the cable long enough for the move or did you need to lenghten the cable. My Falcon2 Pro 40w does not seem to have a long enough cable to make that change.

That was really interesting, I have laser envy 🙂 as I only have a 20W Sculpfun. I'd be interested to see the results of a ramp test on the kerf to see if the optimal focus height is different from the factory recommendation and if the kerf reduced, not that kerf matters when you're cutting, as you said just take it into account at design stage. The only place it will probably matter will be engraving images, I'd imagine you would get better results on your bricks using 60W with the added benefit of much faster engrave times.

Hi James It might be possible to cut other metals, you need to do a couple of things, firstly uprate the air compressor to one that can give you a steady 40psi (or there abouts) with at least two inline moisture traps or you will fog up the laser lens, next you want to cut with a single pass to reduce heat buildup in the sheet which will of course cause warping, finally pre pierce a starting hole before cutting the profile a 2 second hole before starting the path should be enough, the higher pressure air should blast the slag off the metal giving you a much cleaner cut. In theory Stainless steel should cut the easiest but with its reflective surface it might not cut as well as regular steel ( a black paint finish may help) then brass, aluminium and finally copper run laser at full power with slowest speed possible.

Hi again. :) I forgot something. The kerf is usually different between horizontal and vertical cuts. In my tiny designs I had to take that into account because my horizontal kerf is slightly wider. For example, using simple printing paper (80g/m2), in order to cut the framing for some windows and obtain wooden parts equally wide (mullion, transom, ... sorry, English is my 3rd language and I don't know those names but I mean the wood forming the grid between glas parts in a real window), I had to use an offset of 0.0375 mm but only horizontally. Since, it's impossible to set in the software, I reduced all cuttings by this amount vertically. A drawing would be a lot easier than words to explain this, sorry. But basically, if you imagine I have a squared window formed by 9 squares of glas parts (for some projects those squares have sides of only 0.8 mm), all distanced from each other by 0.125 mm (less is quite hard without simply burning the paper), I needed to increase this distance to 0.2 mm each square of the 3 vertical stacks of 3 squares. For the outer cuts, most of the times, this difference is not significant enough to be noticed because all the "laminated up" parts are in fact all "wrong in the same direction" and they finally fit together. I hope that what I wrote makes any sense. :D Cheers ! :)

Hello ! :) Nice video. But I think there is one thing you did not go into. Probably because your machine is reliable enough and you did not need to. The vibrations when cutting at higher speed. I got a 5W cutter and then, after getting it physically broken and dealing with a really awful customer support, I decided to buy the 10W of the same brand (I know, it might sound stupid as the dealer is the same unique one for whole Europe, but I did). And I was quite disappointed because (it got as well broken during delivey but that's not the main point), not only the kerf was wider (on the contrary of what they claim on their ad; I had 0.08 mm with the 5W), but, more important, I was expecting to be able to cut faster (I am building the same kind of things as you do for model trains but in scales N (1/160), Z ( 1/220) and HN (1/320) and engraving thousands of bricks takes a huge time) but in fact I could not at all because increasing the speed was simply making the laserhead wobble and the results were disastrous. I finally never used the 10W and sticked to the 5W. The 2 models are in fact totally identical, except the laserhead itself and the lid. I think that because the 10W laserhead is heavier than the 5W one, the problem is that the mechanics is not strong enough to move it precisely. I did not see the link you said you would leave to a video to measure the kerf. I am mentioning it because I watched some of videos that are quite wrong in their methodology in measuring the kerf. Regarding cutting brass, I am surprised you tried because my dealer told me that any shiny surface would damage the optic. Ha, if I might take advantage of the opportunity, could you please tell us where you find the materials you use (this laser grade MDF and stencil card)? I use "wood-carton" (wooden cardboard?) but it's not as rigid as your materials as I can judge from your video. I am in Belgium and I can't find 0.5 mm MDF (if it ever exists) or something similar. Your stencil card seems to be nice. If I see the product you actually use, I can probably find the equivalent here (I could not find any within the 3 hours I was searching now) . It's not always easy with the way how materials names are translated and it's sometimes confusing. And by the way, I like how you designed your windows and wall to make them look nice from all sides ! :) Thank you and kind regards ! :)

avid follower of you 3d printing (as been printing for a while now my self)... and now your laser cutting (just bought one of thoose) :) can i ask what thickness MDF, and stencil board?

Hi James The reason (which I am sure you know) that Brass (Aluminium and copper as well) will not cut but steel will is down to the heat transfer properties of the materials Steel is about 10 times worse at transfering the heat away from the cutting area

Great job on the video! I'm very impressed with the rather small kerf you calculated for this very powerful laser at all 3 settings. I would love to see you run some tests on 6mm (1/4") wood. I think you would want to cut with the 20W settings vs. the 40W or 60W if you're working on fine detailed projects like earrings, you would want the smaller kerf. Keep up the great job!

This is fantastic, I have been messing about for ages as I couldn't afford the mega bucks some suppliers were asking. Your efforts both of you are to be applauded and thank you so much. Could I ask how far you have both progressed this now, as I am looking for exactly one or two of these for my OO Gauge layout.

I want one! That's what I have been looking for.

Hi James, thank you for your video! I'm considering between the 40W and 60W models and I'm wondering if the 60W gives a cleaner edge when cutting 6mm plywood than the 40W model? Did I understand correctly that the more powerful the laser and the faster it cuts, the edge will not burn black when cutting, for example, birch plywood?

That looks like a nice Welsh based cameo behind you? Has that had is own video? Regards

Great job on the video! I look forward to Part 2 and your kerf findings. I’ll be interested to see if it’s a square or rectangular spot. Rectangular makes it more difficult when working with inlays. My current 10W is 0.08mm x 0.08mm and makes things a lot easier, but I would like more power to cut 6mm wood faster.

What is the kurf width for each of the three wattages

Hi James, Nice to see all the various choices creality offer when it com,es to laser cutters and what they can do. I keep meaning to get back to you regarding the plug track but life has gotten in the way 🤣 Cheers, Michael

Hi James, that you can cut a stanley blade is impressive but the cut itself looked pretty ragged, also whilst the 20 and 40W engraving looked even the 60 W to my eyes looked, well the best description I can come up with is mottled. Am I wrong ? The other thing I'm wondering about is the Kerf width, typically the more diodes you are using the wider the beam width that you get. Finally the Creality website suggests that the power settings use a different number of LED's meaning I suspect that the 22W LED's will fail before the others assuming you are cutting using a variety of settings

Thank you for this review. I'm not a model train buff [though as a terrain builder I've learned quite a bit from the model train hobbyists on YT and have loved model railways since I was but a bairn] but I'm thinking of getting one of these printers and was looking for a clear and honest review from a fellow Brit. So glad UA-cam sent your video my way. Thanks again )O(

Hello, Thanks for taking the time to put this video together James. I have been listening too, and half-watching, these videos as I work some mk2 coaches in Blender and it's been really interesting to compare your workflow.

Hi James, thank you so very much for taking the time to detail further your 3D build, really appreciated. This 34min episode to some may sound easy, but I'm sure there are hours invested here, and it will definitely stand the test of time. Very best regards

id like to see part 3 for one, I can also suggest the axle box and spring can be printed as one piece, slid into the w iron and will work as a conformal mechanism if you use 'engineering resin' or similar. ive done this before on some lowmacs I designed and it worked a treat for full working suspension with no extra build effort.

Fascinating, exactly what I’ve been looking for. I’m a 3D printer Railway enthusiast.

I saw my first 3D printed wagon this week, a South Australian 4 wheeled sheep van by Piping Shrike Models. I was blown away with the detail and incredible truth to the full size vans I used to work with as a stock agent. I dropped $200 on the spot for 4 sets of two. I'm a very happy camper. Yours look really good James. Amazing how 3d printing is improving the hobby. Nothing is out of reach now.

Very clever and very effective.

Very impressive 👏

Hey James, I for one would like to see a part 3. Cheers!

I wonder why did you have to cut all the pieces of the first sample project. The laser is supposed to make a clean cut where the pieces just fall of by themselves or with a little pressure

Very nice. Thought the historical background was interesting too. Next step fully functioning ballast wagons to use in conjunction with your ballast vacuum.😀

First video I found that showed the interlocking mechanism close up, thank you :)

Thank you :)

Are there any pros/cons to digitising your copies of the drawings into what you might call 'model coordinates' with the CAD drawing defined in terms 4mm scale target measurements vs creating the initial CAD drawing in 'real world coordinates' and scaling the 2D drawing or 3D CAD model later? Or would you say it’s just a matter of personal taste? For example, another comment is from someone who prefers to do their initial CAD drawing using the 'real world' dimensions on the drawing. Also wondered CAD packages offer features to deskew and correct aspect ratios of imported pics used for tracing; perhaps this isn’t a common use case for the majority of CAD work.

Hi James. Just come across this video whilst looking at the Templot track videos. Firstly, well done! It’s not easy to make a “do this, press that, use this button’ video entertaining and informative. You have made a damn good job of it. I have an Elegoo Saturn S resin printer already, but looking at both this video and the Templot track making videos, it seems it would be good to have a laser cutter too. Bearing in mind I work in 7mm scale (so materials might be heavier, certainly larger), do you have any suggestions for a budget (bargain basement if my wife reads this) laser cutter? Or perhaps some “minimum” specs I need to look for. Eg diode laser, 10W etc? Plywood sleepers are my preferred option and I like what you’ve done with panelled coach sides. It’s something I’d love to take further. BTW, what glue do you use to join sides/ends/floors?

Thank you James, as a 77year old Railway Modeller I am amazed at your Skills, thank you for sharing.

Hi there thanks for the video I want to get into 3d design and print for my oo gauge and have enjoyed the video and look forward to seeing part 2 . I've also enjoyed your other billd videos

Hi I would be interested in buying a kit. What are you thinking in terms of the set up would it include a turntable well or will it be just the control box and the other parts required without the well. Only reason I am asking I have a peco well installed with a very noisy drive system lining up by eye.