Відео

Thanks very much! And that’s fair, the hole in the back of mine is 16mm and the largest dies it can take is m12, so there is a little wiggle in there. I’ve used it a few times now in m10, and m8 and haven’t had any issues with chip evacuation, but I guess we will see on the m12. Appreciate you checking it out!

Thankyou!! It’s definitely been on my list, I have only made scalloped knobs once since making this video, and I got slack and used a ball mill on its side, but I am curious to see how good I can get the finish from plunging, but thanks for the tip!!

😂😂 I wish, it’s kind of similar without the budget or the skill, but I’ll take it 😂 appreciate you checking it out!

@@nomadhandcrafted The content is similar and satisfying to someone who knows very little about machining.

Since then I have grabbed myself a copy of machinery’s handbook, I know exactly what you mean 😂😂

Completely fair, using more manual focus has been on my mind before this video, but I guess I get scared when I can’t see the screen on the camera while I’m working so I have no idea how the shot looks until after the job is done, I also use it a lot for focus tracking, but I guess I just need to back my setups more 😂 thanks for the feedback! Appreciate you following along

Thankyou! And yeah I don’t disagree, I use the focus tracking a lot so I can shoot at a lower f stop, I do have problems from time to time, but don’t usually have as many issues as I did on this one 😂 but yeah, definitely something to work on! Appreciate you checking it out!

Agreed. I use manual focus almost exclusively. I have a button programmed on my camera to zoom in 5x and 10x to be able to set the focus easily. It takes some getting used to but you get the hang of it quick.

Ah nice! I did think with this one that if you needed to move it, you could offset drill for the pin before milling the flats. I didn’t need to do it thankfully, but it would help if you needed a larger offset

@@nomadhandcrafted I got to thinking about mine where I should have bored it a bit shallower so the set screws are always pulling it in to a shoulder. I'm going to mig a few passes into the shoulder and turn it again but this time make is shallower so it's always pulling inward.

Ahh that’s a good idea to modify what you’ve already got.

Hey mate! Thanks very much for the sub!

Thanks! It did come to mind but I was concerned about that much interrupted cutting, but if I made it again, I would definitely try that instead. Thanks for the tip!

Oh no that isn’t just you, if I’m using something with screws smaller than m6 I’m losing half of them too 😂 thanks for checking it out!

Hey! Thanks very much!

Thanks very much!!

Thankyou for following along sir 🙏🙏

Why Thankyou 🙏 I actually lashed out and got myself a “better” holder with some mgmn this week. I haven’t tried it yet, but it looks a lot tougher than what I was using, so fingers crossed! Or its probably just me making it hard 😂

I wouldn’t disagree, but unfortunately I couldn’t think of another way to do it from one piece, but thanks for checking out the video!

Ah my bad, I always get the 2 mixed up 😂

Thanks very much! He makes great content, I hope to be able to make videos as good one day! I can’t see the holder move, but I did bump the bar into centre to stop it from running at the base of the hole. Appreciate you checking it out!

It’s definitely made a big difference! Thanks for checking it out!

Thanks very much!

Thanks very much! Appreciate the support 🙏

That’s a cool idea! Carbide round stock can be pretty cheap, that’s a great cost effective idea, I might just have to use that one! Appreciate the tip!

@@nomadhandcrafted your welcome. i gladly give you as many tips as i can provide with my experiance. btw i dont have instgram so cant send the drawings of a burnishing tool on instagram

Thanks very much! I’ve never tried anything with that much relief, what’s the lifespan like? I’ve got some ccmt, and I do like them, but my cheapness has trouble getting past the extra corners of neutral inserts

Lifespan.... minutes. Or a whole project. It depends if you are pushing them hard or just finish cutting. They are designed for aluminum and other non ferrous metals. I buy them by the 100 from aliexpress. I abuse them and toss them into my carbide bin for later use or recycle. For what I pay, I dont mind. Now, if I was buying name brand @ 4 to 8$ a piece. I would be hesitant to play around. Food for thought.

Might be worth a look! I usually try to stick to the brand names, hence the fear of burning them up 😂 but might be worth a try next time I grab some stuff on AliExpress, thanks I’ll try it out!

Haha Thankyou! I truely believe it’s one of my strongest skills! Appreciate you checking it out 🙏🙏

Thanks very much!

Haha Thankyou! It couldn’t be farther from a Bridgeport unfortunately, it’s only about a 400kg machine, I’m working hard to save some pennies to buy a little “heavier” machines. I have done the plunge method on brass with excellent results, but not so much in steel. I’ve tried it a few times and the end mill tends to grab the part and try and yank it on me, but it could also be my vice or too much stick out or something, but I’m going to figure it out one day 😂😂 appreciate the feedback though!!

@@nomadhandcrafted Considering that my mill is only about 120kg, I think my point still stands 😂 You're absolutely right about the "grabbyness" of the method, hence why very light passes are what worked for me. I managed to do it in titanium, so steel should be no trouble. If memory serves, each scallop was 4-6 passes this way, so definitely takes longer. Regardless, you seem to get a really good finish using your method anyway!

Haha wow, that’s pretty impressive for such a small machine! And that’s probably where I have gone wrong in the past, I’ve tried to take to big of a cut by the sounds of it, you’ve got me inspired to try again next time I want a scalloped knob 😂 the finish is ok from the ball mill, but it would definitely be better from those side flutes!

Thanks for checking it out!

Thanks for the tip! I definitely do push it too far sometimes, but appreciate the help!

I have heard that since making the video, it definitely sounds like one of “tricks of the trade” things! I’ll definitely be giving it a go next time I bore something, thanks for the tip!

Haha that is a cool idea, I’ve also gotten a couple of comments about using a magnet on the end of the bar, apparently it works wonders as well, I’ll definitely be trying them both out! Thanks for the tip!

Hey! Thankyou, hopefully it isn’t that way for long ! Appreciate the kind words 🙏🙏

It’s something I’ve never tried! I’ve seen a few of them pop up on social media etc, but never gotten around to trying it. Do you need to use a lot of pressure for them to work? I’ll never say no to a drawing 😂

@@nomadhandcrafted well when i used a diamind one for a lathe we told it press wotj 0.05mm ( id was 35.55mm and was told to go to 35.6mm . and it turned out to be 35.58mm ) but your machine should easily be able to handle it . maybe just in two passes need a mail address to send the drawing to btw

Yeah well there you go, I would prefer to not pop it here, do you happen to use instagram?

@@nomadhandcrafted dont got instagram but i got linkedin Marc Wagner ( have sunglasses on in my picture with green leaves in the background )

That’s a fair point, at the time I was simply thinking more contact area should equal for clamping force if I need to hold something tight, and the v’s should locate the part, but probably making it too hard 😂 thanks for the feedback!

I did want to be able to make different sleeves for different sized bars in the future, the 2 I have are both 8mm that I used in the video, but I did make a couple more blanks in case I want to go smaller or bigger, but it would definitely help with rigidity!

Appreciate the sub!

They are on the list of things to buy 😂 but thanks for the feedback

haha I'll take it! Appreciate the sub!

@nomadhandcrafted sorry, didn't mean to come across as you didn't have other reasons to subscribe. I will be making a new compound as the default one is not rigid enough for me. Do you have issues with your bed ways getting bound?

No stress at all, I didn’t read it that way. And yeah I actually do, I was fighting that last night. I haven’t really found a consistent answer to why it happens, like it sounds obvious, but it gets better when everything is clean, but it dosent seem like that’s the problem if that makes any sense

@@nomadhandcrafted I think you need to put some kind of oiling felt on the carriage to keep it clean and oiled, I will be doing it soon. Same with me, after a good clean it is super smooth, so I think little turnings are gouging the ways (Not hardened so not surprised)

Yeah that’s a fair point. It’s also a bit of shame there’s no wipers on the cross slide, which probably isn’t that big of a deal, but it would help. I really want to step up machines (cause I’m done with change gears 😂) but an easy short term solution would be good. Mine definitely has some scars too 😂

I have seen that video, I really love that idea, but also don't want to straight steal someone else and haven't thought of a way to make it unique to me. But he is very clever. Appreciate the sub!

www.lprtoolmakers.com.au/indexable-carbide-insert-dovetail-cutters-1-2-to-1-3-8-od-range/ I'm pretty sure this is where I got mine, in the 1"x1/2" variety

Hey! I've watched your videos for years! I really appreciate the content you make, it's always a great watch! And thanks, I did think of it at the time but didn't know if the downward pressure of the drill would make it go off center, but after actually clamping it, I'm sure it wouldn't move. Appreciate the comment!

I've literally been machining some 4140 today and tried exactly what you have above, it looks like I've had a bit too much rpm and not enough depth of cut, but surely ill forget how I had it set up before I film some more 😂😂😂 and with the sleeve, it did cross my mind, but I was worried with such a small bar that I would have trouble compressing the sleeve around such a small hole in the Centre, but would defiantly give it a go on a bigger bar.

I've been mulling over the NBR works version on the Winky's spring parting tool, I really love that thing and is defiantly on the list but would love to try and make a version that's unique to me, but surely will come up with something someday. but I appreciate the tip!

@@nomadhandcrafted the thing just works and works excellently

It’s something I’ll definitely be exploring at some stage, it’s a very clever idea

Thanks very much!

ha-ha appreciate the help. I do try and stick within the manufacturer specs on the inserts for cutting speeds, but 4140 specifically seems to be a bit outside of spec for me, maybe a lack of horsepower or rigidity. But I've been machining some today, and slowing my rpm a little and taking deeper cuts seems to have helped. I will try this though, I've never seen the Kc1.1 reference before, ill look it up! But appreciate the help!

I did play around a bit with speed when doing some test cuts but found I got more rubbing, but I’ll play around with it a little more in the coming weeks, thanks for the tip 👍

Also an interesting thought, I have had brushes with car audio stuff in my life and know exactly what you mean, I’m not sure how you would integrate it into something like this, but an interesting thought…

@nomadhandcrafted i think i can make one with a tube packed with plain glass fiber and epoxy..i have a chatter issue with my lathe partly from out of balance motor or dinged pulley. I think ill try this i haven't done much boring because of this

Sounds like it’s definitely worth a shot! I’d love to hear how it goes

Thanks very much!

Ah, that was just the shot of me breaking the parting tool from later in the video, it probably didn’t line up particularly well with what I was saying but fair call, thanks for the feedback