I haven’t read thru all the comments but I suggest a mist-cooling attachment if you have a compressor in your shop! Makes for a more friendly environment for filming your projects and an overall less messy situation with coolant everywhere😖 Another thing with flush coolant is that most or the brands needs air mixed in regularly into the solution to keep the liquid from going bad and start to smell. A small home/hobby shop usually don’t run all machines enough to keep coolant mixed up enough, there could be brands that can be left alone for long times but not all! A mist-attachment doesn’t require the big system on a mill or lathe to be filled, you just use a small container with coolant when it’s needed.
It’s something that’s been on my mind a lot. I have experienced the smelly coolant think on my bandsaw before and it’s not something I want to deal with again 😂 the only thing that’s stopping me is a lack of good ventilation in my shop, and having the mist build up. But I’m sure there’s an easy answer I just haven’t put enough thought into it as yet 😂 I’m slowly switching to mostly carbide for the mill, to clean up some of it, but something that has been on mind, you may have spurred me on to get more active about it 😂
What is the reason why you set the tool at an angle? It looks like it would be a lot easier to make and the insert would approach the part the same if it was horizontal. You could also put the counterbored slot along the bottom face of the tool and tap the underside of the body. This will remove any need to mill away the sides of the body.
The real answer is I'm not 100% sure as to the angle. I think that it has something to do with this design of fly cutter being originally set up for HSS tooling, and it being easier to grind the tools because some of that angle is baked into the cutter, but I could very easily be wrong 😂the benefit I'm chasing from this design is the negative space between the body of the cutter and the workpiece should make filming a bit easier hopefully.
@@nomadhandcrafted you are correct 💯 regarding the angle for HSS toolbits. I don't get why you did so much more machining that compromised the tool just for better filming.
I suppose I’ll just have to chalk that one up to not knowing any better, and following the things that I see others do, the original plan for the video was actually to make both styles (because I didn’t really understand the difference) but time didn’t allow me to get both made and the filming thing is important to me, as I’m working hard to make the best content I can. Probably one of those style over substance situations 😂
@@nomadhandcrafted Yea with regular hss tooling the angle of the slot makes shure, that only the tip of the tool is cutting. If you had a straigh angle the whole side of the tool would try to cut like a single flute endmill or you would have to grinde a relief like in a boring bar.
I didn’t know about that one! I left it as square as possible to hold the back of the insert, but it is an annoying little sharp edge 😂 With the cold blue, I don’t actually have any as yet, I’m on the fence whether to buy one of those big bucket systems you drop stuff in, or the smaller birch wood ones, would you happen to have any experience with both by any chance?
I get why you chose the button insert but for a fly cutter a chamfer type insert works better less chatter . Similar cut to an octagon mill instead but better finish with one insert. You can also take a shell mill and remove all but one insert and get the same desired finish
Yeah that’s fair, since making this one I wouldn’t disagree that a lower tool pressure insert would make a difference. I have a powerfeed now and it’s lifted my surface finish quality a lot, but I do feel a should be able to cut a little deeper than I do currently, I’m limited to extremely light cuts. Which I know these tools are light, but talking no more than .2 mm. I would like to do a bit of a comparison one day, and test a few different inserts, maybe one day 😂
I'm no machinist at all, but I'm fluent in watching vids on yt 😆 Chunkier body are common, because it helps with balancing flycutter, and for better rigidity (and especially in this case, surface finish) you don't want crooked helicopter. Also, there are reason why do you use button insert instead triangle or rhombic ones (besides a lot easier to machine slot for it)? I started watching work on large lathe (with chuck for 300mm diameter materials or more) and guy use button inserts to shave welds, because they are less brittle when hitting uneven material. This is kind of thing you can benefit in flycutters also?
I’m thinking you watch cutting edge engineering too 😂 he does some cool stuff! They are definitely stronger, and I went with the theory that because it’s basically an interrupted cut every time it hits the edge of the workpiece that I might get a bit more life out of my inserts, but I am going to try some sharper ones at some stage as I think they might give me a bit finer finish. On my smaller machine the button does chatter a little if the speeds and feeds are ever so slightly off. But thanks for checking it out 🙏
In machining, rigidity is the name of the game. That er32 holder isn't helping. It hangs everything out to far. You'll also find that hss cuts better on these little machines
Oh for sure, it was originally my intention to make it with a taper on the end to go straight into the taper on the machine, but I was a little limited in material with what I had at the time. And hope to make a bigger one in the future with its own taper, but thanks for the advice 👍
Setting the swing on the cutter to just wider than the part will really help with rigidity and tip impact. Mounting the toolbit level with the bed will also help by making the whole body shorter.
I have found that keeping the diameter of the tool path close to the size of the part you're doing has helped a little with it being less finnicky, I've been using the tool a bit since I filmed the video, and it does make a bit of difference. Thanks for checking it out
I didn’t know that, I’m guessing that a Bridgeport at 1.5 can take a lot more tool pressure that we are talking here, but that’s still a fair bit less than I would have thought!
for a better finish next time put your tool in the vise and center your part on the cutting face and turn the head 10 degrees. doing this will plane the the face true to the spindle.
I’m away from my shop at the moment but I think they are 6mm round RCMT0602, but I think there is also an 8mm which they could possibly be , which would be something more like RCMT0802 of that helps
That is so totally incorrect. Hot rolled has a very rough surface in it's "just manufactured" state and cold rolled is much closer to it's "nominal" size. As far as surface finish there is little difference in what a competent machinist can achieve using proper speeds and feeds. But due to the cold rolling process it typically is of a more consistent grain structure and will finish better.
Beautiful work as always. We shared this video on our homemade tool forum last week 😎
Thanks very much! Appreciate the support 🙏🙏
Happy days and a new sub here buddy 👍
Hey man, Thankyou! Appreciate the sub!
Very nice!
Thanks very much!
11:39 this is the second time in the video that the coolant looks like it is traveling up hill. Great video shooting.
It is a cool look! It’s kind of mesmerising in its own right! Appreciate you checking it out 🙏
Very nice work sir. I only have a small fly cutter set.
Thankyou very much sir 🙏 it’s a bit rougher than I hoped for, but does the job 👍
Seriously cool
Thankyou🙏🙏
I haven’t read thru all the comments but I suggest a mist-cooling attachment if you have a compressor in your shop! Makes for a more friendly environment for filming your projects and an overall less messy situation with coolant everywhere😖 Another thing with flush coolant is that most or the brands needs air mixed in regularly into the solution to keep the liquid from going bad and start to smell. A small home/hobby shop usually don’t run all machines enough to keep coolant mixed up enough, there could be brands that can be left alone for long times but not all! A mist-attachment doesn’t require the big system on a mill or lathe to be filled, you just use a small container with coolant when it’s needed.
It’s something that’s been on my mind a lot. I have experienced the smelly coolant think on my bandsaw before and it’s not something I want to deal with again 😂 the only thing that’s stopping me is a lack of good ventilation in my shop, and having the mist build up. But I’m sure there’s an easy answer I just haven’t put enough thought into it as yet 😂 I’m slowly switching to mostly carbide for the mill, to clean up some of it, but something that has been on mind, you may have spurred me on to get more active about it 😂
2:32 Interesting seeing how the surface finish changes as the diameter gets smaller and the speed presented to the cutter gets lower.
It really is, and it's really apparent on that chromoly, its usually just me not being able to break a chip that gets a finish like that 😂😂
What is the reason why you set the tool at an angle? It looks like it would be a lot easier to make and the insert would approach the part the same if it was horizontal. You could also put the counterbored slot along the bottom face of the tool and tap the underside of the body. This will remove any need to mill away the sides of the body.
The real answer is I'm not 100% sure as to the angle. I think that it has something to do with this design of fly cutter being originally set up for HSS tooling, and it being easier to grind the tools because some of that angle is baked into the cutter, but I could very easily be wrong 😂the benefit I'm chasing from this design is the negative space between the body of the cutter and the workpiece should make filming a bit easier hopefully.
@@nomadhandcrafted you are correct 💯 regarding the angle for HSS toolbits. I don't get why you did so much more machining that compromised the tool just for better filming.
I suppose I’ll just have to chalk that one up to not knowing any better, and following the things that I see others do, the original plan for the video was actually to make both styles (because I didn’t really understand the difference) but time didn’t allow me to get both made and the filming thing is important to me, as I’m working hard to make the best content I can. Probably one of those style over substance situations 😂
@@nomadhandcrafted Yea with regular hss tooling the angle of the slot makes shure, that only the tip of the tool is cutting. If you had a straigh angle the whole side of the tool would try to cut like a single flute endmill or you would have to grinde a relief like in a boring bar.
Very cool, need a tool make a tool. That's what my Uncle has always said. Also those that don't chamfer have a special spot in hell waiting....lol 🤣
😂 I like how he thinks 😂
Suggest rounding off the top corner (above the insert) as well. Good job.
Also maybe think about cold Blueing it.
I didn’t know about that one! I left it as square as possible to hold the back of the insert, but it is an annoying little sharp edge 😂
With the cold blue, I don’t actually have any as yet, I’m on the fence whether to buy one of those big bucket systems you drop stuff in, or the smaller birch wood ones, would you happen to have any experience with both by any chance?
I get why you chose the button insert but for a fly cutter a chamfer type insert works better less chatter . Similar cut to an octagon mill instead but better finish with one insert. You can also take a shell mill and remove all but one insert and get the same desired finish
Yeah that’s fair, since making this one I wouldn’t disagree that a lower tool pressure insert would make a difference. I have a powerfeed now and it’s lifted my surface finish quality a lot, but I do feel a should be able to cut a little deeper than I do currently, I’m limited to extremely light cuts. Which I know these tools are light, but talking no more than .2 mm. I would like to do a bit of a comparison one day, and test a few different inserts, maybe one day 😂
I'm no machinist at all, but I'm fluent in watching vids on yt 😆 Chunkier body are common, because it helps with balancing flycutter, and for better rigidity (and especially in this case, surface finish) you don't want crooked helicopter.
Also, there are reason why do you use button insert instead triangle or rhombic ones (besides a lot easier to machine slot for it)? I started watching work on large lathe (with chuck for 300mm diameter materials or more) and guy use button inserts to shave welds, because they are less brittle when hitting uneven material. This is kind of thing you can benefit in flycutters also?
I’m thinking you watch cutting edge engineering too 😂 he does some cool stuff! They are definitely stronger, and I went with the theory that because it’s basically an interrupted cut every time it hits the edge of the workpiece that I might get a bit more life out of my inserts, but I am going to try some sharper ones at some stage as I think they might give me a bit finer finish. On my smaller machine the button does chatter a little if the speeds and feeds are ever so slightly off. But thanks for checking it out 🙏
@@nomadhandcrafted Yeah, he is great :D
Hot rolled gets good finish cold rolled is the one that has bad finish
Nice job, can I copy it.?
Of course!
In machining, rigidity is the name of the game. That er32 holder isn't helping. It hangs everything out to far. You'll also find that hss cuts better on these little machines
Oh for sure, it was originally my intention to make it with a taper on the end to go straight into the taper on the machine, but I was a little limited in material with what I had at the time. And hope to make a bigger one in the future with its own taper, but thanks for the advice 👍
Setting the swing on the cutter to just wider than the part will really help with rigidity and tip impact. Mounting the toolbit level with the bed will also help by making the whole body shorter.
I have found that keeping the diameter of the tool path close to the size of the part you're doing has helped a little with it being less finnicky, I've been using the tool a bit since I filmed the video, and it does make a bit of difference. Thanks for checking it out
Remember, a full sized Bridgeport is only recommended to run a maximum of a 1.5" cutter.
I didn’t know that, I’m guessing that a Bridgeport at 1.5 can take a lot more tool pressure that we are talking here, but that’s still a fair bit less than I would have thought!
i was spinning @ 2000 rpm on ally
I haven’t used it on ally as yet, but thanks for that, will keep it in mind when the time comes 👍
1:32 ohhh the jobs where I’ve had to do the same….only to zone out for a moment and over cook the required measurement. 🤣🤦🏻🤣
I've done it heaps myself 🤣🤣 there is a DRO on the way, so hopefully I can keep it to a minimum 🤣🤣
for a better finish next time put your tool in the vise and center your part on the cutting face and turn the head 10 degrees. doing this will plane the the face true to the spindle.
Thanks for the heads up!
What is the alphanumeric designation for the round insert you used in the video?
I’m away from my shop at the moment but I think they are 6mm round RCMT0602, but I think there is also an 8mm which they could possibly be , which would be something more like RCMT0802 of that helps
Hot rolled gets good finish cold rolled is the one that has bad finish
That is so totally incorrect. Hot rolled has a very rough surface in it's "just manufactured" state and cold rolled is much closer to it's "nominal" size. As far as surface finish there is little difference in what a competent machinist can achieve using proper speeds and feeds. But due to the cold rolling process it typically is of a more consistent grain structure and will finish better.